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    Re: Orris absolute question

    Hi I.D.Adam: Your question represents the sorry state of forum interaction. Out of respect for the thread starter, I’d ask you to message me directly with your questioning of my experience or lack...
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    Re: Orris absolute question

    I've read that the absolute has a richer, deeper scent than the butter/essential oil. So, the simple answer would be to use less of the absolute, but then again, maybe we should consider the scent...
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    Re: Lemon note for incense

    I'd recommend reading Incense, Oils & Brews by Cunningham. He discusses Copal (Bursera spp.), but a particular type from Mexico which is a pale to dark yellow color with an intense citrus odor. ...
  4. Thread: Pine Note

    by Chris Smith
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    Re: Pine Note

    Hi cwf623, I'd recommend Siberian Fir (Abies sibirica) essential oil. This material is a 'choice' oil to use in perfumery. Hope this helps :) Regards, Chris
  5. Re: Musk note from Flex shampoo and conditioner?

    You're welcome, Jamie. I'll be curious to hear about it after you give it the sniff test. I picture it being like a spicy or musky maple syrup (?!).
  6. Re: Musk note from Flex shampoo and conditioner?

    Hi Jamie, As late as the 1930's, Opoponax from O. Chironium was the Opoponax of commerce. The French material was considered inferior because the material from warmer regions was better. You can...
  7. Re: Derivation of Aroma compounds from Crude oil

    You're welcome, Toujours Mink. And, thank you too. Here's something else that might interest you, from the Eden Botanicals site: “An important point regarding steam distillation of essential oils...
  8. Re: New to fragrance diy and need help crafting a versatile citrus fragrance

    Some suggestions I can think of are lemon balm (Melissa), ylang ylang, palmarosa, caraway, and jasmine. You could use peru balsam in the base, and add some litsea cubeba to the top. Since you can...
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    Re: Need some Planning Advice.

    I'm impressed that you've developed your nose and know the real ouds from the fakes. Have you been sniffing oud fragrances or actual essential oils? Perhaps you know someone who sells the essential...
  10. Re: Derivation of Aroma compounds from Crude oil

    So, I'm a dramatic degenerate with "childness" (is that even a word?)? The nasty, offensive personalities on this thread should be disregarded by anyone thinking of joining this site. Every...
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    Re: Patchouli Question

    Mr. P, I become aware of patchouli immediately when I walk into a room and someone is wearing it. But, I like it. It says something about the person, or at least I think it might. I wonder if the...
  12. Re: Derivation of Aroma compounds from Crude oil

    How could anyone question whether or not a chemical reaction can take place within a physical process, or whether or not an unspecified coconut oil material could be categorized as the product of a...
  13. Re: Derivation of Aroma compounds from Crude oil

    Hi George: Yes, a question is designed to produce a reaction. The reaction would be an answer. I asked about reactive distillation. So, I hardly think that writing about copper stills would be...
  14. Re: Derivation of Aroma compounds from Crude oil

    One reason why people use cooper stills is to get the chemical reaction from the physical process of distillation. Copper ions in the still combine with sulphur and yeast (found in the source...
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    Re: Starting a line of Solid Cologne

    Do you want an Eau de Cologne recipe, an Eau de Toilette recipe, or something else? The Cool Water scent isn't going to happen with just essential oils. The other two -- musk/wood and oriental...
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    Re: Heat treatment and tincture

    I have no experience with chunks of Orris Root, but as long as the material was peeled, dried and aged for at least 2 years it should be an ok material. Do you have specs on it, or on the powder you...
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    Re: How do I make a blend by weight?

    Thanks for the advice, David.
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    Re: Heat treatment and tincture

    I'm unsure what form your orris root is in. If it's in peeled, 'powder' form, I can only tell you what the powder I have is like. It's not like garlic powder or onion powder. It feels kind of soft...
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    Re: How do I make a blend by weight?

    To quote perfumer Jean Carles, he worked "volumetrically, in milliliters, using a graduated test tube, all products except the artificial musk being in 10% alcohol solution, thus, I can work very...
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    Re: Stinkiest Materials with Greatest Impact

    There are a few people on my block that definitely have resin in their beards. I don't know if that's a good thing or a bad thing. But, I'd imagine that if we were allowed to gather it (you have to...
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    Re: Patchouli Question

    I believe that the hippie patchouli oils were (a) adulterated and (b) blends. The base would be a carrier oil. The fragrance blend and/or adulterated oil would include Cedarwood, and other oils...
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    Re: Stinkiest Materials with Greatest Impact

    No, it's not good to kill or maim elephants for ivory or cut down rainforests, because we're human beings with hearts, lives, younger generations to think of, etc. If I had a certificate or 'license...
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    Re: Stinkiest Materials with Greatest Impact

    I'm going with Atlas Cedarwood. But, a close second is Celery Seed. I made a disgusting fragrance intentionally using Celery Seed and other horrible things to mimic the odor of male body odor /...
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    Re: Geranium Bourbon vs African Geranium

    If you had to choose one, I think the Bourbon would be it. It may be a bit richer, whereas the African may have more noticeable lemon facets.
  25. Re: For a better understanding of what´s inside a perfume...

    Hi Jamie, That would seem to be true. But, some of the tinctures I've made (such as rose petals), while very dark in color, have a not so powerful fragrance. I want to use more of my rose petal...
  26. Re: For a better understanding of what´s inside a perfume...

    Hmm, I never even thought about propellants. So, looking over a list I have here... 'AXE Body Spray For Men - Shock' has butane listed on the label. When I first started learning about perfumery...
  27. Re: For a better understanding of what´s inside a perfume...

    "The Seventh Amendment to the European Cosmetic Directive also has mandated the disclosure of 26 fragrance allergens in the ingredient listing and these are identified in Annex III-Part 1 of the...
  28. Re: What type of container to "age" finished formula do you use?

    Hi, I do the same thing and let them sit in a dark cabinet for a couple months. But, then I put them in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours before filtering.
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    Re: An oil does not mix into the blend?

    I found this one the net: "The difference between fats & waxes is that, waxes can be saponified only by alcoholic solution of alkali while fixed oil can be saponified by aqueous as well as alcoholic...
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    Re: An oil does not mix into the blend?

    ‘Jojoba oil’ is composed of liquid wax esters rather than oil. Other carriers, which are oils, contain triglycerides and they can go rancid.
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    Re: An oil does not mix into the blend?

    Hi PurePerfume350, I actually haven't tried mixing FCO with alcohol. But, I know that another member here on basenotes tried it and advised that the two do not mix. Since it seems to have worked...
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    Re: An oil does not mix into the blend?

    Hmm, I just stick my mixes in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours before filtering. I guess you could use the freezer if you want but I've only gone to that extreme a couple times, and that was...
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    Re: An oil does not mix into the blend?

    Hi PurePerfume350, Per that link... I don't think fractionated coconut oil (FCO) is 'miscible' with ethanol. Some of these Eden Botanicals products are diluted in FCO, which would fine if you were...
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    Re: An oil does not mix into the blend?

    I saw a similar thing on the Eden Botanicals site regarding Coconut Pulp CO2. I don't think it's any big deal. I'd just use it, swirl or lightly shake the mix every few days, but otherwise just let...
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    Re: Starting a line of Solid Cologne

    The Cool Water scent might be hard using just naturals, since that’s kind of watermelon or Calone thing. But, leather and tobacco are totally possible with naturals. There’s a tobacco absolute and...
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    Re: Roses, Again...

    Yes, it's perfectly fine to ask about naturals here. You'd probably like to make a rose fragrance as opposed to an accord. Maybe research (just Googling) what people say about the fragrance, the...
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    Re: Natural oils that compliment Agarwood ?

    So, Agarwood would be a base note. You'd want to at least look at naturals that are middle and top notes. Some thoughts would be: rosewood, black pepper, roman chamomile, cocoa absolute, coriander,...
  38. Re: Which fragrances do you associate with.....

    Ginsberg is God Bella Freud for women and men
  39. Re: Which fragrances do you associate with.....

    Sex Pistols Etat Libre d`Orange for women and men
  40. Thread: Infusions?

    by Chris Smith
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    Re: Infusions?

    Hi leathermountain, That quote was from the perfumechemicals site. Google perfumery infusions and it'll come up. Maybe read through it and see what you think.
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    Re: Rose Jacqueminot by Coty - any info?

    Oh, just miscellaneous notes I'd taken. The geranium may just be a rosy green note as opposed to something you're going to use.
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    Re: Nutty/Popcorn Note

    6-Acetyl-2,3,4,5-tetrahydropyridine ?
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    Re: Rose Jacqueminot by Coty - any info?

    Jasmine. Violet and Geranium (Greenness). Iris; Coty’s accord (Citrus, Orris, Sandalwood, Civet, and Nitromusks). Spice; Clove and/or Carnation. Honey notes. Benzoin in the base. Citrus in the...
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    Re: Adding a smoke note to Aventus

    Sure, try Cade essential oil. Smoke and Pineapple are a good pairing. I did a project like this -- my own take on Aventus. I used natural hickory liquid smoke. It's trickier to work with since...
  45. Re: For a better understanding of what´s inside a perfume...

    No, There are usually other chemicals that are not listed on the label. It may be very, very difficult to replicate a composition. For example, if one note is 'lemon', it could be anything from...
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    Re: Least Expensive/Most Wonderful

    Yes. You could buy some cheapie essential oils (like Cedarwood, Sweet Orange, etc.) at Whole Foods and make something that smells great. But, I think that if you stick with the hobby, you...
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    Re: Jean Carles Olfactory training charts

    The one thing I don't fully understand is the chart on page 44 (the one with downward pointing arrows). I would really appreciate it if someone could explain how to follow, comprehend or make use of...
  48. Thread: Infusions?

    by Chris Smith
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    Re: Infusions?

    I've been trying to find any blog info or what have you from Octavian Coiffan on Francois Coty to understand the context. I'm afraid I've come up with nothing, so what I'm left with is just other...
  49. Thread: Infusions?

    by Chris Smith
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    Re: Infusions?

    Jamie, There's something about it on the perfumechemicals site. Just Google perfumery infusions and it'll come up. But, a few add'l thoughts... Talk to Paul. He heats things in the microwave. ...
  50. Thread: Infusions?

    by Chris Smith
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    Re: Infusions?

    No, It's a bit different from tincturing since it involves temperatures. "Infusion process: grind the raw product and mix with alcohol, heat under reflux, filter, freeze, refilter, age."
  51. Re: Apologies in advance…Rose Essential Oil question

    Uh oh, I think we have a new perfumer on the block (!). Good job, Tonio. Have a great night, ~Chris
  52. Re: ca. 1950 perfumer's materials in glass bottles

    I know, I'm a pain in the neck. But, I believe in decision by consensus, so I wanted to ask before I bought anything. Yeah, I don't know if it would be something I'd use in a fun project, keep as a...
  53. Re: ca. 1950 perfumer's materials in glass bottles

    Yeah, that occurred to me as well. So, I may be left with only a collectible bottle value to consider. If the bottle belonged to a notable perfumer or the material was a known component of a famous...
  54. Re: ca. 1950 perfumer's materials in glass bottles

    Hi David, I appreciate your thoughts on this. I wouldn't want to go through all the trouble & expense to have things analyzed. Perhaps at least the numbers that identify the product could be looked...
  55. ca. 1950 perfumer's materials in glass bottles

    Hi, I was wondering if old perfumery materials such as aroma chemicals, bases, etc. from companies like Givaudan have any use or monetary value (?). I like old bottles, find the labels interesting,...
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    Re: "Pino" prefix denoted materials???

    Pino as a prefix implies absorption.
  57. Re: OKAY: what would you do if you had some… (insert rare ingredient) ?

    Paul, The tincture of moon rock, biblical hesperides, and black hole residue is now available but unfortunately these are considered allergens and may cause complications in alien births. I mean,...
  58. Re: OKAY: what would you do if you had some… (insert rare ingredient) ?

    I'd like to place an order for some free Ambergris. I already made something without Agarwood that smells like Oud; and I have Orris which is easy to tincture. Hmm, I guess I'd include a little...
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    Re: Tuberique Alcohol ?

    You're welcome :) They mentioned it in The Chemist And Druggist (1936), but it was sort of a 'duh' write-up (liquid with a sweet, floral odor for tuberose or fancy blends).
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    Re: Tuberique Alcohol ?

    Hi Paul, I think it's "tuberic alcohol". If you Google search that, you'll come across the recipe in Panda's book.
  61. Thread: Farnesol

    by Chris Smith
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    Re: Farnesol

    Hi David, Thanks for looking at that online. I know it's one of 'those' reports (how could they not think that chemicals are sexy?!), but it still seems like useful info. I printed it out for...
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    Re: Expert Advice Needed: Musk replica

    Hi Justin, Per an old thread here on basenotes, I found that “Tonquin Musk Imit." from Adirondack Outdoor Co. and The Good Scents Company 's Musk Methyl Ketone are recommended.
  63. Thread: Farnesol

    by Chris Smith
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    9,549

    Re: Farnesol

    Hi David, I'm working from a study found online, "Not So Sexy", "Appendix E: Chemicals In 17 Fragrance Products". Included are chemicals detected in tests as well as those listed on the label. ...
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    Re: Amber confusion

    Ambreine Samuelson vs. Ambrinol S… In the later, what does the “S” stand for?
  65. Replies
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    Re: Amber confusion

    Hi Jamie, I did some research on the acacia element (hawthorn and orange blossom), which led me to Cassie, Mimosa, then Opoponax or Sweet Myrrh (Commiphora Erythraea var. Glabrescens, Engler). ...
  66. Thread: Farnesol

    by Chris Smith
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    9,549

    Re: Farnesol

    Farnesol is in Jennifer Lopez J. Lo Glow, Britney Spears Curious, Quicksilver for men, etc. Hydroxycitronellal is also in the J. Lo and Britney perfumes, but not in the Quicksilver for men.
  67. Re: Subtle Natural Masculine Chypre - Need suggestions

    Nitromusk - Musk Ketone; Macrocyclic Ketone – Muscone; Macrocyclic Lactone – Ambrettolide; Polycyclic – Galaxolide; and Linear – Helvetolide. I picked these because they've been used in some...
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    Re: Ersatz Natural Brut

    Hi David, True, but I'm spoiled by shopping at TJ Maxx. Can you believe I found a bottle of Penhaligon's LP No. 9 there for $10?(!)
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    Re: "Egyptian Musk" ?

    Ever since I can remember, Egyptian Musk has been a flea market staple. Abdul Kareem Egyptian Musk gets a lot of mention on the net. I believe the different takes on this ‘fragrance category’ would...
  70. Re: Vintage Fragrance experts, I need your help.

    Hi chunky79, I think that what you have there is a 1960's release. If you had an earlier vintage in a Lalique bottle, we'd factor in the glass value. As of today (8/15/15), there's a 5 Fleurs mini,...
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    Re: Ersatz Natural Brut

    Hi Took, I just saw Canoe for sale at my local K-Mart. I always thought it was a cheapie, but they actually had it priced at over 20 bucks. Your hobby with vintage liqueurs sounds like fun! IMO,...
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    Re: High purity talc supplier

    Yep, talc is asbestos-free now. It's found in tumors. Women with such tumors have sued. That's their choice. I know the forum I'm on, and I regard regulations for what they are -- health and...
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    Re: Perfecting Orange Blossom Accord

    Hi Jamie, I found the other formula on your site -- Is this a 'work in progress' with revisions, etc., or are you working on an alternative for such an accord? I've been working on accord projects...
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    Re: What Does it mean to "Push a Note"?

    I'd "push" a rose note (rendered with rose absolute) with geranium essential oil, palmarosa, rosewood, etc. I think that to "push" a note is to accentuate it, as opposed to complementing, shading,...
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    Re: High purity talc supplier

    True, asbestos is a non-issue here. But like asbestos, talc is a silicate mineral. The important thing is that particles of talc have been found deeply imbedded in ovarian tumors. I wouldn’t want...
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    Re: High purity talc supplier

    Hi David, "the American Cancer Society suggests that women may want to avoid or limit the use of products containing talc". Not to get too far off-subject from Mr. Frater's thread (I've already...
  77. Thread: Wisteria

    by Chris Smith
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    Re: Wisteria

    I think enfleurage is possible, and tincturing for sure, but no -- I'm afraid that you're probably not going to find an absolute.
  78. Replies
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    Re: High purity talc supplier

    Talcum powder use can cause ovarian cancer. The president of the Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Edward Kavanaugh, conceded in 2002 that talc is toxic and “can reach the human ovaries.”...
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    Re: High purity talc supplier

    Maybe look into this company: Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.
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    Re: Raising a perfumer

    Of course. That's what kids are for (!) :)
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    Re: Turning an oil into a spray

    If using water, you'd want to avoid tap water and use distilled water. Can you find out what type of oil was used as the carrier oil? I made a fragrance in Fractionated Coconut Oil and was able to...
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    Re: Fatty note in vintage fragrance...

    With an evaporation time of 300 or more hours at 100%, I think C12 MNA would be more of a heart or even base note (rather than top note)? Where does C12 MNA fall in most perfumer's blending sequence?
  83. Replies
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    Re: Note Cards?

    I wish I was as organized with my notes. They could be anywhere -- in a box, shoved into a book, written in a book, jumbled in a folder, or more likely, in a place I'd never put them intentionally...
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    Re: Raising a perfumer

    It sounds like your daughter might be a natural! Maybe the two of you should start a perfume business? You could be the Chief Financial Officer and she could be Creative Director(!) :)
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    Re: Rice Powder Accord

    The theatre people may be "tortured artists", but who knew that cinnamon leaf oil was the source of their agony?(!)
  86. Replies
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    Re: Note Cards?

    Hi Paul, Is "Evap time" the same as "Substantivity" as found on TGSC pages? Thanks in advance, ~Chris
  87. Replies
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    Re: Rice Powder Accord

    Just to clarify, "The chemical compound that contributes mostly to the aroma profile of aromatic rice (e.g. basmati rice) is 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline (2-AP). This highly volatile compound has been found...
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    Re: Fatty note in vintage fragrance...

    Nitromusks used (such as Musk Ketone, Musk Ambrette, Musk Lactone and Musk T) seem multi-dimensional, in that a person may smell powdery, animalic, and fatty/thick facets, all from the same...
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    Re: Rice Powder Accord

    I'm not sure, so you might want to look into Pandan leaf essential oil. This is a funny one because it has all kinds of names ranging from screwpine to kewra to kewda, etc. I bought some kewra...
  90. Re: Coty Le Vertige - Found and then lost... heartbroken perfumista here

    Mumsy, I'm so sorry to hear about that. I sell a lot on eBay. The most important thing for sellers these days is that the item has to be "as described". In this case, it's a double whammy since...
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    Re: Rice Powder Accord

    Can you tell us what the face powder smells like? I immediately think of Jasmine Rice. I have Dynasty brand, from Thailand. You could do a tincture of that in grain alcohol. You could use the...
  92. Re: Subtle Natural Masculine Chypre - Need suggestions

    Hi Took, You're welcome :) Since I like your concept, I'd make it five different ways, pick the best one, and only tweak it if you feel it needs tweaking. That said, you could treat Galbanum as...
  93. Thread: Pennyroyal

    by Chris Smith
    Replies
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    1,640

    Re: Pennyroyal

    Pennyroyal tea. You can buy the raw material and steep/brew it (see Mountain Rose site). It's also a Nirvana song. Personally, I'm sticking with Spearmint (!).
  94. Re: Subtle Natural Masculine Chypre - Need suggestions

    Hi Took, Here's my 'just for fun' attempt, using your ingredients (I didn't add any or take any out). The base to top percentages are: 55-20-25. It has 13 ingredients, so it must be lucky (!)...
    ...
  95. Re: Subtle Natural Masculine Chypre - Need suggestions

    Hi Took, You're welcome :) For some reason, I'm not the biggest fan of Atlas Cedarwood. I read about Texas Cedarwood having a smoky character and having some Sandalwood characteristics. I bought...
  96. Replies
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    Re: Which Sicilian Mandarin in Égoiste?

    You're welcome :) Like I said, it's just a guess based on what I've read. Apparently the next grade down from green is yellow, then red is last as it's more used in the flavor industry. ...
  97. Re: Apologies in advance…Rose Essential Oil question

    Well, if you decide to go for it, everything will be ok as long as you write everything down. Be sure to take notes! If you try it at 10%, and it's too strong, just add more carrier (whichever one...
  98. Replies
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    Re: Which Sicilian Mandarin in Égoiste?

    Just a guess, but I'm thinking that they used the green (best grade for perfumery) from Sicily.
  99. Re: Apologies in advance…Rose Essential Oil question

    Hi Alysoun: As I understand it, TonioKroger isn't happy with the Aura Cacia product which I believe is the equivalent of an EdC (3–8%) concentration & You would perhaps be happy with a product in...
  100. Re: Subtle Natural Masculine Chypre - Need suggestions

    You could try Texas Cedarwood oil too. As for the numbers, maybe go with 55% base notes, 20% middle notes and 25% top notes. The proportions within each would be up to the artist. A chypre would...
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