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  1. Replies
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    Re: Clearwood Demonstration Formulas

    Thanks Paul.

    I love Clearwood but if the client wants something more patchouli forward without patchouli funkiness, a touch of patchoulol to the clearwood may be worth trying.
  2. Re: Has anyone tried blood cedar wood, or other uniqe materials from Aftel?

    While some of them are unique, others are more common materials that are named in a somewhat nonstandard way. Additionally her materials are generally way above market price but that said the things...
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    Re: How Paul Kiler ruined my day

    As I left in my review on PSH, Radical Root Beer is a pretty amazing creation. I'm not blown away by many materials but it really is special. Thanks Paul!
  4. Re: Aldehydes that work well with cedar and patchouly

    Both rose and/or orange would likely be nice with your base in which case you might try C8, C9 and C10. I like 9 & 10 combined. If you just wanted some lift from the aldehydes without adding much in...
  5. Re: Aldehydes that work well with cedar and patchouly

    All of them, properly used...perhaps you are thinking of a particular direction with the fragrance or looking to get a specific function from an aldehyde?
  6. Replies
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    Re: In the interest of learning

    Personally I think trying to follow a set division of materials isn't particularly helpful as depending on what materials you use the composition may still end up wildly unbalanced. But that said, if...
  7. Re: What's that sparkling- mineral note in Terre d Hermes...

    I have no idea what's actually in there but I also don't think it matters if you find the material you need that gives you the result your nose is looking for. All perfumery is a bit of a ruse isn't...
  8. Re: Adding Old Spice fragrance oil to make it stronger?

    Well that's kind of the thing...you can no longer get the vintage, stronger formulation of Old Spice due to changes in the use of what are considered potentially allergenic materials. Adding anything...
  9. Re: What's that sparkling- mineral note in Terre d Hermes...

    Virginia Cedar
    Cedrenol
    Cedramber
  10. Replies
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    Re: The Amazing Overdose Thread

    I would say overdosed typically refers to use at a much greater percentage than would be typical. For potent things like safraleine and geosmin an "overdose" is going to smell pretty bad. Amber...
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    Re: The Amazing Overdose Thread

    Most trace elements are usually best used as trace elements.

    But I might argue there is no such thing as an "overdose" of jasmine absolute - the good stuff to be sure.
  12. Re: Rose Oudy formula: With Percentages (for beginners from Matt)

    You are welcome to my bottle to sample it for yourself. It is redolent of the typical white musk odor.
    ...
  13. Re: Overdose of White Musks flattening/bleaching my fragrance?

    It's a basics issue. Make trials with 5, 10 and 20% of your concoction being the white musk accord and see how it changes. Adjust with your nose.
  14. Re: Rose Oudy formula: With Percentages (for beginners from Matt)

    You can use those rose materials to make a rose accord, a good one in fact, but roses come in a huge variety and most have a fairly distinct scent for that rose variety. That's good news for the...
  15. Re: Simple Rose Oudy formula for beginners from Matt

    Any particular reason why double the number of current materials will make it better? You have quite a lot already.
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    Re: Javanol dilution and experience smell it?

    It's unmistakably a sandalwood chem, deep, rich and woody w/almost chocolate nuances. It's also fantastically powerful and can dominate even in traces. You'll have to try the usual anosmia training...
  17. Re: What are the 3 fragrances you have tried to imitate more often?

    Early on I made a respectable copy of Armani Si (and learned quite a bit about diffusivity and synergism during the process) but generally I don't try to copy existing fragrances though I can be...
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    Re: How long for maceration

    As Paul said, count on 2 months depending which materials you use and how much. You mention you're only getting an hour of projection but you also mention you used Glucam P-20 which counteracts...
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    Re: Natural Patchouli Perfume - problem

    One of the better ways to soften patchouli is by sweetening and the most typical and likely popular is vanillin or a vanilla analogue. That said, labdanum is a good patchouli tamer as well and I'll...
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    Re: Natural Patchouli Perfume - problem

    If you are using 8% or so of real Rose de Mai then you don't need the rose alcohols otherwise I don't really see a problem. You can make your oen very nice rose note with Phenylethy Alcohol,...
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    Re: Natural Patchouli Perfume - problem

    I agree with Jeroen. Try leaving off the vetiver altogether and decreasing the labdanum and see if the patchouli doesn't open up more.
  22. Re: Need help, i think i'm lost. ( DIY perfumery newbie Question )

    When learning perfumery it is helpful to read all the tips and tricks out there and about the base, heart and top notes, and so on, but THE most important thing is learning each material you have....
  23. Re: Need help, i think i'm lost. ( DIY perfumery newbie Question )

    You've covered everything up with heavy, oppressive musks and woody ambers. Retry starting with only the guaiac, frankincense, cedar and oakmoss. Get it to where you like it and add traces of only 2...
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    Re: What Do You Make of This Ethics Convo?

    There is no "ethical" way to harvest civet paste and musk deer grains. None. That should be the only transparency you need and the vendors are looking the other way or have a high level of...
  25. Thread: Red apples?!

    by I.D.Adam
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    Re: Red apples?!

    Kind of difficult to say what the issue is without knowing what you have in there but I don't really get berry and strawberry in red apples unless you are going for a fantasy note. Alpha damascone...
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    Re: disaster formula

    Too many musks not enough meat. Nothing there to smell but a musky veil. Needs more notes that smell like something.
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    Re: Veratraldehyde - experiences?

    As it would happen, my favorite supplier has it...https://perfumersupplyhouse.com/product/veratraldehyde-natural-99/
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    Re: Veratraldehyde - experiences?

    Yes this is what I'm getting.



    I'll have to source a natural form, thanks.
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    Veratraldehyde - experiences?

    Just picked some up. Hard time perceiving it at 10% then at 2.5% (which was harder to smell). I can smell a bit of the characteristic description, woody, creamy vanilla, but mostly as an after smell...
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    Re: Looking for a citrus perfume GCMS

    What heart notes do you have? Tried any of those? What heart notes would you like to have in your citrus perfume?
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    Re: GCMS Cuban cigars?

    You might try Tabanon instead of or in addition to the cocoa notes. Tobacco sweetness w/o the sugar.
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    Re: Advice to perfumers?

    Hey, somebody who gets it!
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    Re: Light bulb moments and epic discoveries!

    ^^^Truth.
  34. Re: Long quest to develop a product with a specific scent...not sure where to turn

    You may have found the right place. There are a handful of professional perfumers here who may be able to develop this scent largely by scent alone though analysis would surely help. One or two will...
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    Re: Adding diffusion to Leather Perfume

    I like reading ABC. Always well written with unabashed hyperbole and conceit.
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    Re: Vetiverol natural isolate

    Yes, get the Vetiverol. It's the best vetiver chem overall, depending on needs of course, but it gives you vetiver without the unwanted nutty or rotting grass top notes. It blends well with...
  37. Re: Triethyl citrate - would be happy to hear about your experiments with it

    Hello Jamie.

    What advantages do you find TEC has over ethanol?
  38. Re: PK Bases: Long Lasting Lemon, Magnificent Mango, Perfect Pineapple, & Radical Root Beer

    If you have created a long-lasting, naturalistic lemon base then I imagine the price charged will be well worth it. Looking forward to getting these and well done!
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    Re: Petitgrain, the natural that ruins everything

    I disagree with this statement. As always, it depends on the material and what else it is blended with, natural or ac. As far as nuance, there are some naturals that contain so many different shades...
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    Re: Blenders in Aventus

    True that. With 10% Ambroxan it'll take 3 months to know what you'll finally end up with.
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    Re: Blenders in Aventus

    Not sure I get vanillin but perhaps Ambroxan or related ambergris type musks. Galaxolide can give that blending veil. Perhaps a touch of one of the salicylates? What are you using for apple. I have...
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    Re: Working with Jasmin

    It would be useful to state what is in your Jasmine blend but at the risk of sounding obvious, both Hedione and Hedione HC may be helpful and try them both at 2:1 or 3:1 ratio (make your ratio...
  43. Re: Why do ultraniche fragrances not smell expensive?

    This.

    The bases and accords are developed by schooled professionals with top notch chems. It makes a difference. It rarely gets mentioned, but the fact that there are well-developed schools of...
  44. Re: Benzyl alcohol/jusmin/ white narcissus : why am I smalling poop?

    Yes, my mistake you are correct. I misread.
  45. Re: Benzyl alcohol/jusmin/ white narcissus : why am I smalling poop?

    You need to purchase "natural" benzyl alcohol to avoid the industrial type smell.
  46. Thread: Rose

    by I.D.Adam
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    Re: Rose

    Actually rose is one of the more gratifying notes for which to make your own accord as the chems involved all live pretty closely within the same evaporation profile. At a minimum you need geraniol,...
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    Re: Absolute beginner to perfumery creation

    They are not.

    A fragrance oil may be a diluted essential oil or it may be a mixture but it is usually not disclosed what it is. I strongly suggest you stick to essential oils to learn perfumery....
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    Re: Ambroxan maceration time.

    I have noted changes in a formula containing Ambroxan at up to 3 months later. Quite significant changes in both lifting the middle notes in particular and imparting its own characteristic scent.
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    Re: fixatives for lavender

    Look for a lavender absolute sourced from France. Mine is so coumarin rich it'll last > 24 hours on a strip and does not have a green scent.
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    Re: Beeswax substitute

    No they're not but with beeswax abs a little has a large impact.
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    Re: Recreating a Cedar Chest Scent?

    Seems to me if you have the wood portion of your cedar accord to your satisfaction then try adding patchoulol and cashmeran in small amounts. The patchoulol will add resinous depth and the cashmeran...
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    Re: Beeswax substitute

    Why not just buy the beeswax absolute?
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    Re: New, simple perfume formula from Matt

    These are my feelings exactly. I agree with all you have you have said here.



    Again, only part of the whole from the moderator side. Disappointing.



    Indeed.
  54. Re: New Smelly Game: Incense - Pre-Discussion Thread

    Should not the judges be decided upon prior to the beginning of the game?
  55. Re: New Smelly Game: Incense - Pre-Discussion Thread

    Have you been able to retain 2 or 3 committed judges?
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    Re: Tobacco - Immortelle heart note

    As Paul stated it seems the tobacco and immortelle are too diluted. You may find it easier to work with your materials diluted to the same strength (except for the very potent things like Ambroxan,...
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    Re: Strength for the perfume

    I wouldn't worry about adding the aliphatic aldehydes to your sandalwood vanilla composition, and if it were me I also wouldn't worry about the various musks just yet either.

    Patchouli will give...
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    Re: Strength for the perfume

    Are you using naturals only or are you open to synthetic aromachemicals? If the former you have far fewer options, if ACs are okay then it will not be difficult.
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    Re: New, simple perfume formula from Matt

    What if that new member has it coming? Your response to the issue is one sided.
  60. Re: New Smelly Game: Incese - Pre-Discussion Thread

    There is already a fee in having to ship overseas. I do not believe remuneration for anyone should be a part of these games personally.
  61. Re: New Smelly Game: Incese - Pre-Discussion Thread

    I don't disagree with anything you have written.

    I would not limit participants at the start.

    If David decides not to participate as a judge, and I certainly would not find fault if he did not...
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    Re: Blackwood Firmenich

    I've sampled several of the commercially available bases and for me they are terrible. I'm sure there are captives that are great but given the power of the real stuff and how little it takes to have...
  63. Re: First thread: CHANEL Vintage Perfume Revival - Ask for Advise

    I hope this was for your personal collection only as you have surely killed the value the remaining perfume in the bottle had left. As Julian said, this bottle is heavily overdiluted now and nothing...
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    Re: Problem with Grojsman accord

    Personally I am very sensitive to ionones and find them all to be terribly scratchy, astringent and abrasive to my nose. That is likely the issue.
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    Re: incensey aromachemicals

    Yes, the peppery notes are relatively short-lived, and the dry out is soft, woody and slightly resinous. Not a high-impact material.
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    Re: incensey aromachemicals

    You're welcome...just for grins I threw this together this AM before walking out the door and put it on a strip and it has potential. Hope it works out for you.
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    Re: incensey aromachemicals

    Hmm, perhaps Copaiba balsam though I suspect a combination is what you'll need. Copaiba with a touch Ebanol and perhaps a shade of patchouli. Could be interesting though I suppose this will lack the...
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    Re: incensey aromachemicals

    Serg has a good point in that incense is very different depending on which part of the world you are in, but for a dry frankincense note you might sample CO2 preparations of frankincense from...
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    Re: airy aromachemicals

    Excellent, glad the Aphermate suggestion worked out.
    I thought I had a sample of Air du desert but turns out not, so I'm not sure what gives it airyness but I'd agree it is unlikely to be Iso E...
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    Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Actually I don't care what the answer is, I'm not going to synthesize it. I did enough chemistry in college. I don't have to use it in my profession, a conceptual understanding is enough. The point...
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    Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    It's because it smells less of acetone and more of floral and therefore "better."
  72. Replies
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    Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Use a naturally derived benzyl acetate and you will likely change your mind.
  73. Replies
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    Re: airy aromachemicals

    Aphermate perhaps.
  74. Replies
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    Re: best quality synthetic sandalwood?

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/427742-Very-Simple-Sandalwood-Accord?highlight=jfrater+sandalwood
  75. Re: linking Sandalwood/Galaxolide/Hedion Base to bergamot, linalool top notes with Vetrofix

    What you have listed is good. If using linalyl acetate you could always add a bit of lavender too. Vetiveryl acetate may be helpful. I don't off the top of my head know of any 50:50 wood-citrus...
  76. Re: linking Sandalwood/Galaxolide/Hedion Base to bergamot, linalool top notes with Vetrofix

    The bergamot and linalool are top notes and your base, is well, base notes. Vertofix is a base note though hedione will be noted throughout the fragrance. You need some true heart notes to bridge the...
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    Re: Help (re)starting out?

    4thGen, have you thought about how much this is going to cost to get started vs the potential return? If you're sitting on a stack of money and doing it out of family love and interest that's one...
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    Re: Damask rose problems

    Dangerous? They are selling standard perfuming materials, essential oils and the like correct? If they were adulterating it they sure wouldn't put it in an MSDS. If you feel you need an MSDS you...
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    Re: Male sexy fragrances

    Find a woman who thinks scrotal sweat smells sexy and tell me if you'd date her. Smelling attractive to the opposite sex has nothing to do with smelling like sex, or unwashed genitalia or animalic...
  80. Replies
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    Re: Male sexy fragrances

    LOL, 1 or 2 essential oils attractive to the ladies?

    Vanilla absolute.
    Sandalwood.

    Would make an attractive, expensive, long-lasting fragrance.
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    Re: List of 100 Natural Aroma Materials

    Robertet Lysylang is not really ylang but lilly. It is a dead ringer for star gazer lilly IMO. If White Lotus wont ship to you in Canada, Eden Botanicals has good Ylangs or certainly try Perfumer...
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    Re: Top Notes Disappearing

    Of course, you can remake it with different proportions. If you want to post up the formula we can give suggestions. In perfumery, you never get it right the first time. It takes well-seasoned...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Top Notes Disappearing

    I'm afraid you covered them up. Coumarin and coumarin-containing notes like hay, immortelle and tonka if used in too high a dose will smother your blend.
  84. Re: Matts attempt at a fougere, does this formula look ok?

    It's just "Adam" by the way. So I see you've gotten lots of good additional advice on your fougere. In my post in the other thread I kept the component list rather short on purpose as for now I think...
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    Re: Are these the "Holly Grail," of Accords? Matts top 10

    To really get a classic "barbershop" scent, IMO you have to use Lavender absolute along with the geranium and bergamot and then throw in a little clary sage too. But, you should also use at least one...
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    Re: Possible DeLaire Bases

    Decide on which ones and then prepay for our share? I'd be okay with that. They are really quite special.
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    Re: Oakmoss Absolute Source?

    I have smelled low-atronol Oakmoss abs (from Eden Botanical) and the Oakmoss resinoid from John Steele (available through Perfumer's Apprentice) and I can tell you the difference is very great. The...
  88. Re: Good sources for genuine 100% pure lavender essential oil ?

    "100% pure?" It is 100% an absolute preparation of lavender as compared to a 100% essential oil preparation.
  89. Re: Good sources for genuine 100% pure lavender essential oil ?

    Eden's "Wild" Lavender is very nice as is their Lavender Absolute. They have a large selection to choose from. You could always get samples of each and have a little lavender party.
  90. Re: Get the "smoked ham," note out of my Guaiacwood Oil?

    Robertet has a fractionation called "Guaiac Heart" that has significantly less of it as does the aromachem Guaiacol. I have a large bottle of the natural that to me smells of straight up bacon...
  91. Replies
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    Re: Synthetics similar to floral absolutes?

    Use the board search function at the top right of the message board header and you'll find several. jfrater has been very generous in sharing multiple excellent accords.
  92. Replies
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    Re: Woody / Musk Base

    Have you evaluated each of those musks by themselves and know their scent characteristics and longevity? Written it down in your own words? David always says, in addition to what I just wrote, know...
  93. Replies
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    Re: Woody / Musk Base

    There's too much going on general. Pare back and add stepwise until you find a combination that works toward your goal. This formula has a lot things that are not related to a "woody/musk base."
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    Re: Giving legs to mostly natural

    Read these: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/404708-Why-that-musk-Ethylene-Brassylate-vs-Galaxolide
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/371344-Good-MUSK-combos
    to help you decide what to use when....
  95. Re: Simple Patchouli Rose perfume for mom - any tips or advice?

    I like Styrax, I assume you mean Asian styrax which is cinnamony and plasticy, but yes it does dry powdery. I would use it in addition to benzoin rather than instead.

    Myrrh I find to be more of a...
  96. Re: Simple Patchouli Rose perfume for mom - any tips or advice?

    I would leave out the grapefruit personally. Also you have quite a lot of hedione and iso e super. A lot. Has the butter had the effect you thought it would? I'd add benzoin, a bit of labdanum...
  97. Re: Hello everyone! Any ideas for this list with a perfume I'm making?

    Yuzu is pretty sparkly and C-12 MNA might be thought of that way but that only gets you 15min. Frankincense and Hedione maybe?
  98. Replies
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    Re: toluene in perfumes

    I think you are worried too much. Email the perfume house and see what they say.
  99. Replies
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    Re: toluene in perfumes

    What is your ultimate concern here?
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    Re: Jasmin Sambac accord

    You may find a touch of Lyral helpful.
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