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    my new fragrance formula

    I'd like to share with you my latest formula. It's an unusual one.

    Amboryl Acetate 50% 10ml
    Cedramber 50% 5ml
    Piconia 50% 4ml
    Prismantol (fully saturated in alcohol) 9ml
    Trimofix 50% 4ml...
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    Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    What type of sweetness is it? Is it a floral sweetness or an edible sweetness?
    If it's a floral sweetness, you can probably just add benzyl benzoate. That may likely be the solution.
    There's also...
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    Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    This might be off-topic here, but Orange Flower Ether has characteristics that can be a bit reminiscent of neroli. It's very potent, sharp heady alcoholic perfume, probably better used to give an...
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    Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Pamplefleur is a bit of a mouth-puckering rhubarb smell, very slight fake vetiver nuance. I wouldn't describe as a clean grapefruit, more like blood orange edible zing, or guava, leaning much more...
  5. Thread: Pine Note

    by parker25mv
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    Re: Pine Note

    Bornyl acetate is said to have a fresh pine note.
  6. Re: Need Clarification about aging and finished product

    Actually, just the opposite is true. If you want those essential oils to last a long time, the best thing to do is to not have any water in there, or very little water.
    A cologne is typically mostly...
  7. Re: methyl pamplemousse (grapefruit note) review

    Maybe if I can describe the difference this way:
    Methyl pamplemousse would be more in the direction of a floral sweet (benzyl benzoate) woody, and pamplefleur would be more in the direction of...
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    Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Apparently I'm not the only individual to notice the "grapefruit" connection.

    Some excerpts from a review by Zealot Crusader, June 6, 2019 :

    "These were the ozonics of the 90's retrofitted with...
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    Re: Benzyl Alcohol & Benzyl Benzoate

    Benzyl benzoate is usually added (in large volume) for floral sweetness.
    The natural sweetness from many types of flowers actually come from benzyl benzoate, so it is not really that unnatural.
    ...
  10. Re: methyl pamplemousse (grapefruit note) review

    Another comparison of methyl pamplemousse head to head with pamplefleur:

    Methyl pamplemousse: exquisite green, acetate, "scratchy" wood grapefruit skins,
    sour, juicy a bit, almost floral
    almost...
  11. Re: methyl pamplemousse (grapefruit note) review

    Kind of off-topic but I found these descriptions for the different enantiomers of Pamplefleur:

    (2R,4S)-Pamplefleur - natural, fruity odor in the direction of grapefruit and rhubarb, close to...
  12. Re: methyl pamplemousse (grapefruit note) review

    I'd like to compare and contrast Methyl Pamplemousse with Pamplefleur.
    While they are both "grapefruit", they are two completely different sides of grapefruit.
    Methyl Pamplemousse is in a much...
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    Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    You know, I'm wondering if there could be a hint of Pamplefleur in the formula. The smell of Pamplefleur strongly reminds me of the sort of pungent and cedary grapefruit note I seem to be able to...
  14. Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Interesting, I think I also get a very subtle synthetic vetiver smell from Prismantol, but it's not very strong and buried below the menthone smell.
  15. Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Well, I'm glad there's someone who can appreciate Orinox.
    I really wanted to and tried to like this one, but I've just come to the conclusion I can't stand it.
    It's that piercing cloyingly...
  16. Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Prismantol -
    in very low concentrations almost a creamy maple wood
    subtle ginger, cardamom effect, woody, almost sort of ambery, reminds me of an old patchouli soap bar.
    green stems, almost...
  17. Re: Veratraldehyde color stability question

    Unfortunately methyl vanillin isn't really much better than vanillin when it comes to discoloration.

    If you want a chemical explanation, the problem is the oxygen on the meta (4-) position...
  18. Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Okoumal - This one is difficult to describe. does not seem very strong, either that or I quickly become anosmic to it.
    The smell reminds me of crushed up acorns, maybe almost toffee but not at all...
  19. Re: Chemical constituents of Gardenia fragrance

    I get a sweet tea smell from the gardenia variety 'Crown Jewel' (a cold hardy hybrid variety). Some 4-Oxoisophorone (ketoisophorone, pretty commonly available) might be useful here.
    This variety...
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    Re: Tuberose and Vetiver???

    Actually both the smell of tuberose and vetiver have something unique in common, coincidentally. They both have a sort of rubbery feeling, I would say, but rubbery in good ways. In fact I was...
  21. Re: recommend me a fragrance without this list of notes

    I found another one:
    Costume National Homme

    From the description, it seems an awfully lot alike to Emblem Mont Blanc.
    But one of the reviews said it was like Santal 33 by Le Labo except with...
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    That's true of course, they smell very different, but they all have a very similar type of effect, in this category of materials.


    I don't think Cedryl acetate has the same effect. Though I do...
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    Re: Incense Accord Essentials List

    I get a pine sap or heartwood of Douglas Fir feeling from Piconia.
    I also become anosmic to it fairly quickly, so at stronger concentrations it takes a while until I can smell it again.
    I would...
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    Re: Maturing reactions

    Yes, in general, it's best to keep perfume fragrances from exposure to too much air, if they are going to be stored for long periods of time.
    And important to keep the bottle out of exposure to...
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    Re: Maturing reactions

    This is a really good question. To some extent it really depends on the exact fragrance chemicals, and I feel that certain fragrance chemicals in particular may have more potential likelihood for...
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    Re: Hermitage Oils minimum order 100???

    In my opinion, if a business is willing to deal with smaller orders, they'll be more likely to get reviews and have their name spread by word of mouth, and some of those customers who initially made...
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    Re: Oud reconstitution

    It's more subtle and subdued, in a refined sort of way. I don't want to give the wrong message, Cedramber is not anywhere near the same league as maltol or those other gourmand fragrance notes.
    ...
  28. Re: Looking for non musk/woody amber base note ideas

    For a woody peppery smell, there is β-caryophyllene. It almost smells like a fine incense wood, but it is in transparent black pepper sort of way. It's a pretty common fragrance chemical, even used...
  29. Re: Looking for non musk/woody amber base note ideas

    I am not sure I understand exactly what you were asking, I'm presuming you are wanting a woody and/or amber smell, so long as it is non-musky?
    To answer your original question, I would consider...
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    Re: Cognac chemistry

    gamma-heptalactone may be very useful at bringing out many of the subtle distinct characteristic facets in Cognac.

    Although part of its description is creamy/milky, it's said to have some...
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    Also on the subject of coumarin, one possible replacement for that might be dihydro mint lactone (dihydromint lactone, koumalactone).
    It's supposed to have some fruity, tropical creamy nuances.
    ...
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    I would have to agree. Kephalis reminds me of something exquisite, somehow reminiscent of an ornate Persian rug.
    It has a little bit of a spiciness though (maybe almost slightly peppery), I'm not...
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    Re: Oud reconstitution

    I'm sure buddhawood smells wonderful, and maybe even could be construed to smell a little oud-like, but I don't think it's any cheaper than oud (price of low to medium grade oud) and therefore I...
  34. Re: what are the important fragrant chemicals in oakmoss

    I can at least answer your question about birch tar, it's basically indistinguishable from pine tar except it has additional small amounts of oil of wintergreen (methyl salicylate).
    The smoky tar...
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    Re: Oud reconstitution

    It is possible to make a fake oud accord, but it's not going to smell exactly like or anywhere near as good as the real thing.
    So if you wanted to use a fake oud note, you'd really have to be cheap....
  36. Re: A synthetic route to damascenone family compounds (advanced chemistry)

    One more to add, there is also Dihydrokaranone found in high concentration in Kyllinga odorata (Fragrant Spikesedge).
    Arcadi boix Camp had this to say about it: "One of the best chemicals I have...
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    Re: Ingredients for a petrol aroma

    I'd describe it more as a synthetic vinyl leather. And yes, it does also have aspects of petrol, and a bit animalic as well though not in the usual leather-animalic sort of way.

    (just so everyone...
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    Re: Ingredients for a petrol aroma

    Both Myrrh and Cypriol (Nagarmotha) have some petrol aspects, though they are complicated smells.
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    Re: Supporting labdanum as base note

    If you want to support labdanum, one very appropriate (though somewhat obscure) synthetic to use in this situation is Orinox (Labdanum ethanone).
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    Re: Sweet Tonka note but not Gourmand

    I would look up fragrance chemicals that are noted to have a similar smell to coumarin.
    There might be one of them that has a similar effect, but less gourmand.


    Here you go:...
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    Re: Table of esters and their smells

    Sorry, it does not work like that.

    If you mixed, for example, benzyl methyl ether and ethyl cinnamate, it would likely smell similar to benzyl cinnamate.
    But even that's not so entirely simple,...
  42. Re: methyl pamplemousse (grapefruit note) review

    Review for Orange Flower Ether -
    sharp alcoholic perfume, very heady. If it smells like orange blossoms it's the sharp pungent deep character to them.
    some grapefruit bitterness, more like the...
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    Re: musk keynote and acetophonone replacers?

    If you like acetophenone, and especially if you want some more mustiness, you might want to look into the chemically related Labdanum Ethenone (Orinox).
    It's a strange material.
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    Re: Hedione Hedione Hedione

    I noticed he also makes use of Isobutyl Quinoline (animalic leather, vetiver). Chemically it is related to pyrazines, so there's clearly a connection with his nose there.

    (It was in the Poivre...
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    Table of esters and their smells

    I thought this table may be interesting or useful to some of you:

    https://jameskennedymonash.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/table-of-esters-and-their-smells-v2.pdf

    It's a table of different type...
  46. Re: What Determines High & Low Impact for Aroma Chemicals

    There's no easy answer to this. There are general trends and loose rules that tend to hold, but it really depends on the specific compound. It has to do with how the shape of the molecule fits and...
  47. Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    I think I finally figured out what Piconia smells like. It smells strongly reminiscent of Port Orford Yellow Cedar, or pine sap.
  48. Re: Can someone with advanced chemistry knowledge help me answer a question?

    Okay, looking here, the reaction between an enone, at least a cyclic one, and an amine appears to be reversible....
  49. Re: Can someone with advanced chemistry knowledge help me answer a question?

    Or what about cyclohexenone? Is there something about being in the shape of a ring that makes it less reactive?
    We're not even talking about aromaticity here, so what causes that?


    And what...
  50. Can someone with advanced chemistry knowledge help me answer a question?

    I was looking at the fragrance compound keto-isophorone (4-oxoisophorone) and wondering why it is not more reactive.

    I know that quinone readily reacts with amines via addition (responsible for...
  51. Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Yes, but just think for a moment what it would look like if the single note section got filled with all sorts of synthetic names.
    It's hard enough to sort through there as it is.

    In my opinion...
  52. Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    I didn't want to clutter the single note materials with endless threads on different obscure synthetics.

    I think that would trash and ruin that section of the forum.

    Maybe the ones running this...
  53. Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    These are some old ones I described, I'll put them here.

    Orivone-
    The first thing that strikes me is it's kind of marine or aquatic (but nothing really like Calone, the typical aquatic in...
  54. descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    I got some more samples of some interesting fragrance chemicals and wanted to share how they smell like.


    Amboryl acetate - I kind of like this one. It's kind of acetate-like, a little bit like...
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    Re: Burnt smell+juicyness

    Have you tried aldehydes? In particular C-8 aldehyde?
  56. Re: searching synthetics - searching equivalents

    The trouble with using naturals is that they may contain the substance you are looking for, but they'll also contain a lot of other substances as well, which may throw off the smell from what you...
  57. Re: Artificial Nitromusks, Stories of Chemists and Businessmen

    I don't think nitromusks are very healthy, probably not the best thing to be applying on skin.
    Fortunately in modern times there are substitutes.
  58. Re: Noob with particular tastes seeking recommendations

    Have you smelled Myrrh?

    You might also like Cypriol (Nagarmotha).

    Both of those have just a little bit of "gasoline" aspects going on, and cypriol is a little bit animalic.


    Patchouli goes...
  59. Thread: Bleach note

    by parker25mv
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    Re: Bleach note

    I'm sorry, I did not mean to be insulting, and everything in your above post is correct.

    If, however, for some crazy hypothetical reason, someone did actually want to add chlorine to their...
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    Re: Juicy Apple accords

    Green Apple - traces of acetaldehyde

    Red Apple - ethyl butyrate

    alpha damascone may be useful here as well
  61. Thread: Bleach note

    by parker25mv
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    Re: Bleach note

    Anyone who thinks adding chlorine to a fragrance is a viable idea is ignorant about the chemistry. Chlorine will react with a great many different organic compounds. Even alcohol is oxidized. Even...
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    Re: Mossy chemicals

    You are correct, I have not been able to get a sample, I read a description for that one from somewhere else
  63. Thread: Bleach note

    by parker25mv
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    1,176

    Re: Bleach note

    You can't put real chlorine or bleach in there. It will be incompatible with most fragrance ingredients, nearly all of them in fact.
    Not to mention numerous other problems I am not going to bother...
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    Re: Mossy chemicals

    That may very well be, I wouldn't be surprised if there were traces of oil of wintergreen in there.
    That doesn't mean it contributes to the overall moss note though.


    I do not think so. What I...
  65. Re: Which Sandalwood base is closest in strength to natural Ssandalwood?

    This is a bit off-topic here, but let me describe the smell of Sandaxol in a little bit more in detail.
    terpene-lemony (and reminiscent of Elemol/Elemi), lemon Pine-Sol, lemon aroma type hops,...
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    Re: Vetiver / Ruh Khus / Khus Khus

    Vetiver, EO
    mossy dandelion weeds, green plants stems, very slightly earthy, harsh vinyl and harsh green overtones, a bit turpentine, warm and ever slightly vanillic.
    rubbery, in a good way, very...
  67. Re: On getting what you pay for - cheap/inexpensive EOs

    Certain types of less expensive oils are more likely going to be the real thing than more expensive ones, when dealing with Chinese and Indian sources.
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    Re: Mossy chemicals

    additional observation about the smell of Kephalis on skin:
    There's a surface to it like Clary Sage, maybe just a little bit softer than that
    It has a green facet, but not the typical acetate...
  69. Re: A synthetic route to damascenone family compounds (advanced chemistry)

    You asked about more specific starting materials, methyl cyclocitrone or cyclocitral may be appropriate starting materials.
    Or safranal.
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    Re: Advantages of working undiluted?

    I can see the advantages in testing with dilution. But when you're actually putting together the final fragrance that has been all planned out, you will want to use more pure alcohol.

    Also, there...
  71. Re: methyl pamplemousse (grapefruit note) review

    Yes, although I don't want to clutter the single note area with descriptions of synthetic chemicals.
  72. methyl pamplemousse (grapefruit note) review

    This is a review and description of Methyl Pamplemousse. (Methyl pamplemousse is the main synthetic grapefruit replacer)

    First this has a strikingly beautiful smell reminiscent of Javanol (the...
  73. Thread: Trimofix O

    by parker25mv
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    Re: Trimofix O

    I do think this is kind of a more male smell, but it could easily be worn by an 18-year-old male teen or an athletic Northern European woman.
    It smells like a more expensive higher end fragrance...
  74. Thread: Trimofix O

    by parker25mv
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    633

    Re: Trimofix O

    I put some on my skin.
    My first reaction, this stuff is beautiful! More beautiful than Cedramber. Like Cedramber, it does sort of have a slight bubblegum facet to it, but this a bubblegum facet in a...
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    Re: Woods / Cedramber

    My first impression of Cedramber, a beautiful exquisite scent. It's like a clear-smelling cedar wood, more smooth with much less of the balsamic harshness. It also some sweet and fruity smell to it,...
  76. Re: Which Sandalwood base is closest in strength to natural Ssandalwood?

    I have some Sandaxol (one of the earlier sandalwood synthetics) to compare to Javanol, and while they do smell similar, they also smell completely different.
    To me it seems obvious that Sandaxol is...
  77. Thread: Trimofix O

    by parker25mv
    Replies
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    633

    Trimofix O

    finally got a sample of Trimofix O (Fixamber) to try.

    It smells very marine, almost salty, a bit like Cashmeran in the sense of having the scent of sun-kissed skin on the beach.
    Almost something...
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    Re: Mossy chemicals

    Now onto Kephalis. It's a beautiful exquisite sort of grapefruit-vetiver, rich Virginia tobacco, chemical patchouli smell, also with a more spicy woody character like caryophyllene.
    Overall Kaphalis...
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    Re: Mossy chemicals

    Let me see if I can more specifically describe Orivone.
    The first thing that strikes me is it's kind of marine or aquatic (but nothing really like Calone, the typical aquatic in perfume). It's also...
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    Re: Mossy chemicals

    Now that you mention it, seaweed is strangely similar to moss. I'm not sure it's exactly the same. But I would agree, definitely a very similar effect. It could potentially be useful in a moss accord.
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    Re: Mossy chemicals

    Patchone and Ter Orcinyl are more mossy in a different type of way from what I was talking about, more of the earthy facets of moss. Veramoss is probably the best out of the bunch, but still not...
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    Mossy chemicals

    There are not a lot of mossy chemicals, so let's talk about mossy notes.

    I was smelling some (real) moss growing on a tree, a thick layer of moss, trying to pick apart all the subtle aspects of...
  83. Re: Any advice for getting that Sharp, Thin, Zingy quality to my homemade fragrance?

    If you want to go natural, Clary Sage might fit the type of effect you want.
  84. Replies
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    Re: Your philosophy: smell like, or smell

    There are some smells I appreciate, even like when it's wafting in the background, but don't want to personally smell like.

    Some examples are balsamic-smelling tree oils, cloves, and leather. The...
  85. Re: Lancome launch new fragrance, Idole in super slim bottle

    I do have to complement them and say the pear note was a nice touch, something I wish more fragrances would do, but unfortunately this fragrance was less than amazing.

    Don't get me wrong, the...
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    Re: Do I need an antioxidant?

    There are a few fragrance compounds that are not vulnerable to oxidation from air at all. So there is a chance, though small, that it would not serve any beneficial purpose at all.

    In the case of...
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    Re: Top mid and base percentages

    Well, it depends on exactly what you mean by "percentages". Since the human nose smells some things much stronger than others, any percentages are going to be very relative/subjective.

    I think...
  88. Re: Looking for non musk/woody amber base note ideas

    Yes, Helichrysum is a great one for an amber note, if you can tolerate the maple syrup smell that will come along with it. It's also a bit expensive.
  89. Re: Thread about less known or not so usual ideas about creating perfumes

    If you're looking for more unusual combinations, here's one that I came up with

    Myrrh (see Myrrh, Note Pad: Single Note Exploration)
    milk (methyl laitone)
    cinnamon (or cinnamaldehyde)

    I was...
  90. Thread: Myrrh

    by parker25mv
    Replies
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    46,911

    Re: Myrrh

    Smelling myrrh right now, I get something that's kind of diesel fuel, motor grease, new rubber car tires, in the best way possible, if all those things could smell better than they do in real life. A...
  91. Re: Looking for non musk/woody amber base note ideas

    Geosmin I would consider to be musky, although not musky in the normal sense of the meaning, more of an earthy moldy, damp rotting wood, like the smell of the wood beams in a pier on the ocean. I...
  92. Re: A synthetic route to damascenone family compounds (advanced chemistry)

    Well I don't know about stereoisomers, but there are three different isomers, nootkatone (grapefruit peel), eremophilone (Buddha wood, false sandalwood), and vetivone (one of the smells in vetiver),...
  93. Re: Looking for non musk/woody amber base note ideas

    I agree, it's possible you may be genetically anosmic to Javanol, but that's extremely unlikely. Much more likely the anosmia is due to an overdose and smell fatigue. Sometimes the entire room can...
  94. Re: Looking for non musk/woody amber base note ideas

    What? Really? That's very strange.

    Is there any chance the issue is the Javanol you have? Have you tried one from another supplier?
    I presume you don't have any problem smelling natural...
  95. Re: Looking for non musk/woody amber base note ideas

    I looked up the listed ingredients in fake oak moss (Oakmoss Givco 214) and it was basically Longifolene Dextro and timbrone supra (an analogue of Iso E super).
    I shouldn't be so quick to judge, but...
  96. Thread: Captives

    by parker25mv
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    Re: Captives

    That's obviously what I meant.
  97. Replies
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    Re: Mango leaf absolute (and friends)

    I know this is kind of off-topic, but I kind of pick up a green mango note in the fruits of quince. The fragrance on the surface of the fruits is also bright, which is no doubt caused by ionones....
  98. Re: "Mulacro" Essential Oil - Arcadi Boix Camps

    Probably not much, I don't think they would smell that similar.
  99. Re: Name the fragrance you tried/smelled today for the first time.

    I smelled the real version of Versace's The Dreamer.
    Before that I had an inexpensive knock-off version of it.

    The knock-off is fairly good, not that bad, but it is kind of a hollow version of...
  100. Re: I literally don't get vetiver. Why would ANYONE want to smell grassy?

    Also there's something about vetiver that almost reminds of one of the smell aspects (there are several) in oud.
    Or the two notes are somehow related. That's just what I get.
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