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  1. Replies
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    Re: A Starter for... a Newbie?

    Welcome!

    In mainstream, I'd recommend Estee Lauder Azuree, a bold leather.
    The classic leather masculine is Knize Ten, which is hard to find, but should be available somewhere in the UK.
    In...
  2. Re: Thoughts on Histoires de Parfums 1740 Marquis de Sade

    I own it and love it. A warm, rich, complex scent with tobacco, leather, and immortelle. Definitely warm and enveloping. I have not compared various formulations, so I cannot comment on this.

    cacio
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    Re: Advice for perfumes on a tight budget.

    Welcome!

    1- The A*Men series sounds good for this. Another one, and don't be afraid that it is in the female section of the store, would be Estee Lauder Azuree, a confident leather, which is...
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    Re: Recs for a creamy sexy skin scent?

    If you live in NYC, you can smell pretty much everything in some store. Henri Bendel used to to have the Lubins, and the Chanel exclusives are at the Chanel boutiques or at Bergdorf Goodman.
    ...
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    Re: Recs for a creamy sexy skin scent?

    The Lubin is unisex.

    For the Chanel, you could check the feminine version of Egoiste (or better, the other way around, Egoiste was created after this), Bois des Isles. Which unfortunately is in...
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    Re: Please recommend a niche...

    The usual suggestion is to smell a lot before committing.

    One thing that pops off my head is Lubin Idole EDT. First, hard to think about a more gorgeous bottle. Second, the smell itself seems to...
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    Re: Recs for a creamy sexy skin scent?

    Welcome!

    Masculine of feminine? Chanel Egoiste (the regular Egoiste, not Platinum) is supersmooth and creamy.

    If you want niche, another example would be Lubin Idole (saffrony, smooth).

    cacio
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    Re: Vintage vs modern Diorama

    I don't have much experience, I only have a vintage edt which smells leathery and very deep chypre, probably the fruity top was gone. But note that according to Luca Turin, this has changed also in...
  9. Thread: Blind Buying

    by cacio
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    Re: Blind Buying

    In the end, tastes are tastes - so one can recognize the novelty, construction, quality, etc. of a perfume, and yet not like it. And of course it is also the case that brand name, price, and...
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    Re: Erik Kormann -- Sample Pass

    I received a September sample, which I am ready to pass on. who wants it next? in case, pm me your address

    cacio
  11. Thread: Something new

    by cacio
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    Re: Something new

    I'm thinking vetivers as well, they're relatively fresh, and good for the outside, but at the same time they have enough complexity and elegance for a celebration. Grey vetiver is a great example....
  12. Re: Gimme 3: Your most versatile scents that aren't boring [details inside]

    The perfume I think most versatile is Sycomore (whether you want to call it designer or not): very fresh, yet woody and smoky and so good for the winter as well. Both casual (since fresh) but also...
  13. Thread: Blind Buying

    by cacio
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    Re: Blind Buying

    I like the A mens and Dzongka. All three howerver seems more appropriate for cold weather, they are rich and dark. Opurs 1870s is quite interesting, very synthetic in feel yet quite rich, somewhat...
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    Re: Lord and Taylor old stock?

    Many people do actually look for older vintages of some perfumes ...

    cacio
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    Re: Tabac Blond Extrait or EdP

    I'm not sure about the different between Paris and NYC extraits. The NYC stuff must come from France anyway. There could be a matter of batches, as usual, but then it's not clear Paris is better than...
  16. Thread: AdP help...

    by cacio
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    Re: AdP help...

    I perceive the essenza as more intensely soapy (which is not necessarily good for me), but many others love it.

    cacio
  17. Thread: AdP help...

    by cacio
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    Re: AdP help...

    The AdP are all classic eau de cologne recipes, so they do smell similar, in the scheme of things. They're all citruses in one way or another, so it's hard to define any of them as sharp, putrid or...
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    Re: Alexander mcqueen kingdom pure parfum

    I've never smelled it myself. It's supposed to be strong on cumin.

    I don't think it is particularly sought after, so I doubt there is a big market for it. Still, if it was kept in its box, this...
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    Re: Serge Lutens best florals for women

    It seems the engraving works only for the superexpensive exclusive flacons (>$300). My very favorite floral would be Sarrasins, a rich jasmine with a slight leathery background and a touch of fruit,...
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    Re: Tabac Blond Extrait or EdP

    We need our Caronian larimar here.

    In any case, as for all Carons, parfum, if at all. i must say I am a touch disappointed by the current parfum. It starts fantastically, with a deep, dark note...
  21. Re: Looking for something a bit unique - please help

    Some random ideas:
    Malle Lys Mediterranee: a fresh lily with a surprising salty/beach note (it could work as a masculine as well)
    Chanel La Pausa (in the Chanel exclusive collection): a fresh iris...
  22. Re: Top two fragrances from Guerlain, Chanel, Dior and Hermes

    Sometimes it depends on if one includes the exclusives or not
    Chanel: mainstream: Egoiste and Antaeus. exclusive: Sycomore, Jersey
    Guerlain: Derby, Jicky
    Dior: mainstream Jules (available in...
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    Re: Best Blood Orange Fragrance

    Diptyque Eau de Tarocco is a blood-orange citrus (tarocco means blood orange in Italian). Of course, as all citrus colognes, it doesn't last long.

    cacio
  24. Re: Male fragrance, which vetiver should i choose?

    So many good vetivers. All the three you mention are good. In the three, I think the Lubin has an edge because it has an interesting salty note.

    Among other vetivers (and there are many), I'd...
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    Re: Suggest a fragrance- modern fougére/aquatic

    Welcome!

    Rive Gauche for men is a very clean and fresh fougere, which I like a lot. (In constrast, I don't really like aquatics).

    cacio
  26. Re: What Oud Scents would be interesting to start testing.

    So many ouds to choose from. The Tom Ford, while not the best one necessarily, gives a good idea of what oud could be about. Better ones, Dior Leather oud (smoky variety), By Kilians Pure oud (oil...
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    Re: Dior Leather Oud, which size?

    I bought the big one for myself (of this and Vetiver - I have the smaller one for Eau Noire and Mitzah). I agree it's quite a lot, plus the thing itself is powerful. But it is also very good. And it...
  28. Re: Please compare Vintage and modern Caron Bellodgia

    Vintage Bellodgia was a wonderful, rich, very creamy carnation. My vintage edc has a bit of neroli up top, but that often unpleasant note is very restrained, and soon the thing goes to a smooth...
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    Re: Finally tried Fracas

    Yes, indeed, it's Casbah.

    cacio
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    Re: Finally tried Fracas

    I have not tried the for men, but the for women, I agree, is resolutely pink. But not pink in a childish way. To me it's a bold, outspoken, nearly garish tuberose, happy and shameless, with a nice...
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    Re: SL Sarrasins: Jasmine with leather

    I have not ordered the Lutens, but customer service at Barney's is good. the matter is price.

    cacio
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    Re: Good signature scent for high school

    Welcome!

    Off the top of my head, things you could try:
    Lush Dirty: (if you have Lush store nearby), fresh, minty, and very interesting. In store, available as body spray, but which lasts as long...
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    Re: SL Sarrasins: Jasmine with leather

    Sadly, so far only available at the extortionary prices of Barney's NYC, or, still expensive but more manageable, at the Paris boutique.

    cacio
  34. Thread: The best neroli?

    by cacio
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    Re: The best neroli?

    My favorite is Parfums de Nicolai cologne sologne. Wonderful classic eau de cologne. As a true eau de cologne, it doesn't last too long, so one doesn't get the annoying drydowns of most citrus...
  35. Re: Nothing I Do Gets Me a Close Shave Without Razor Burn or Ingrown Hairs

    Welcome!

    My hair grows very slowly so I cannot certainly help for the shaving part.

    As for ingrown hair and the like, I would try products with lactic acid, salycilic acid, or glycolic acid....
  36. Thread: Brand new

    by cacio
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    Re: Brand new

    As moleo was saying, it depends on what you're going to use it for. 1 oz is actually a large quantity. These can be used if you split a bottle in 2 or 3 people, or if you use something daily and...
  37. Re: Buying matching deodorant spray to improve performance, have you tried it?

    Lotions can increase longevity, but any unscented lotion will do, it doesn't have to be the matching one. Aftershaves are too fleeting to have any effects. I have not used deodorants, so I cannot say...
  38. Re: Indecision: when you don't know what you want

    Usually I have to rush out in the morning, so not much time to think. It's a combination of the weather and whatever I see first in the genre when I open a couple of drawers. Often, I also put...
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    Re: Fragrances with some stank

    Great list
    +1 Le Labo Oud.
    And also Etat libre d'orange Rien. And vintage Schiaparelli Shocking, which is not that expensive.

    cacio
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    Re: Women's Fragrance in Colonial America

    Perfumes were simple concoctions in most of the world, as natural materials tend to be fleeting. I don't know if the US ever caught on (expensive) musk and civet as wealthy Europeans might have done....
  41. Thread: Brand new

    by cacio
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    Re: Brand new

    I used bestbottles and accessoriesforfragrance. Given the shipping cost, if you buy you should always get more (vials/small bottles and the like). You are going to use them soon anyway, if you start...
  42. Re: Best yearound upscale unique fragrance for college

    Knize Ten is a classic leather with a fruity note. Probably bolder than what you are looking for, it recalls cars and gasoline.

    For something smooth, I'd say Etat Libre d'Orange Tom of Finland,...
  43. Re: which soaps/bodywashes do you think compliment everything you wear?

    I use eucerin shower gel, which is unscented, but then I add perfumed oils to it, depending on the season and the mood.

    cacio
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    Re: A scent to match La Boheme?

    I was going to say something pale and melancholic, like Apres l'ondee and l'Heure bleue, which you happen to own. The period more or less matches as well.

    As for the red lipstick, I believe it...
  45. Thread: Brand new

    by cacio
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    Re: Brand new

    I don't know the specific of the thread. Perfume deteriorates with heat and when exposed to light. Decanting per se doesn't do anything. Perhaps the person was saying that he decants small quantities...
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    Re: Women's Fragrance in Colonial America

    As kumquat was saying, Caswell Massey claims to stick to the tradition. Certainly they are not exactly as they were, I'm sure they're now using synthetics for longevity and cost. But they do smell...
  47. Thread: Serge luten

    by cacio
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    Re: Serge luten

    Stereotypically, Chergui, as others have said. Also Fumerie Turque (which is now back in the exclusives, however).

    And then there's Muscs Koublai Khan, as also cited ...

    cacio
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    Re: Best Cologne (EdC) out of the Bunch

    In your set, Mugler. (outside of your set, I have favorite edcs like Chanel or Cologne sologne - though to be fair they are true edcs and don't last that long).

    cacio
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    Re: Amouage Tribute Attar

    We should remind them!
    cacio
  50. Re: Your choice for modern commercial perfume with fresh spring floral theme

    Not particularly modern, and apparently it has been discontinued, but one of my favorite perfumes is just perfect for the genre: Paco Rabanne Metal: fresh green floral, with hyacinth, some muguet and...
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    Re: And now I love Chanel No 5

    Great discussions on the various shifts. Not a big expert here. I have found the current parfum the crispest of the lot.
    I suspect IFRA regulations may affect the perfume (jasmine), certainly the...
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    Re: Amouage Tribute Attar

    Interesting. So I see the Omani government doesn't care much about perfumes either - understandably, since their real exports are oil products. Sad nonetheless.

    cacio
  53. Thread: Mkk

    by cacio
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    Re: Mkk

    Seconding what others have said about the "skankiness". Each person has different sensitivity to each specific musks, so that's why it goes as floral to some and very dirty to others. But most people...
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    Re: Lush info/recommendations?

    They come in different versions. EDT in the black bottles, sticks, roll ons. Dirty, as noticed, also comes in body spray. Usually, if you want a perfume, you should go for the edt - although as...
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    Re: Lysol Jasmine & Rain

    Now I need to go and smell it...

    I bet there is some masculine sporty frag that smells like this.

    cacio
  56. Thread: Notes vs Accords

    by cacio
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    Re: Notes vs Accords

    The notes given by the house are often fantasy, so they are seldom informative. I agree with you that more specific description, like chypre, fougere, gourmand can give a better sense of what to...
  57. Thread: Mkk

    by cacio
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    Re: Mkk

    I have the export bottle (that is, the newer version) and it's still dirty and intensely musky, and worth having. I have not smelled the older formulation, so I cannot compare.

    cacio
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    Re: Barbershop scent: Worth paying $250?

    Barbershop is a matter of overall feel and impression, but within the category there's heavenly and there's functional. I once smelled the original Fougere royale, which is very barbershoppy, but...
  59. Re: Guerlains Habit Rougue, Arsene Lupin and Derby reissue

    Like all of them, but my favorite is Derby too.
    It lasts decently on me. When dabbing, one tends to apply less than with spraying, so that explains in part the longevity issue.

    cacio
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    Re: Soapy/clean/fresh?

    I guess everybody will have his definition of the three, and there's a lot of overlap.

    Soap for me means recalling soapy, that is, either aldehydes or neroli. Fresh would be something like...
  61. Thread: Brand new

    by cacio
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    Re: Brand new

    Creed Original vetiver doesn't smell much like vetiver (in the sense of material), it is more soapy and clean. Vetiver, per se, smells closer to the Tom Ford or the Guerlain vetiver. So at this point...
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    Re: Amouage Tribute Attar

    The latest batches weren't particularly smoky, more leaf and pouch, I'd say.

    cacio
  63. Re: Good Projection, Longevity Niche samples to try ? Please Help

    Knize Ten is certainly a great, classic butch leather with an automotive vibe that's worth trying (and buying).

    As for others, I have a soft spot for the quirky brand Etat Libre d'Orange, which...
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    Re: Safe scent for extra hot weather

    As others have suggested, I think vetivers work really well in hot weather, they're fresh and green, and last well. So Tom ford Grey vetiver, Guerlain vetiver, Chanel Sycomore, etc etc

    cacio
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    Re: Next Purchase: MI, DH, or GIT

    I'd also vote for DH, quite unique and classic smelling.

    cacio
  66. Thread: Brand new

    by cacio
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    Re: Brand new

    Encre noire is a good vetiver. If you can find things like Guerlain Vetiver and Tom Ford Grey vetiver, you should get an idea. Relative to these, it's more woody in the base. If neither of the above...
  67. Thread: Brand new

    by cacio
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    Re: Brand new

    Btw re: Egoiste (the regular). Older (ie in their 40s) European people like me still remember the striking ad:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZ5a2JH_BVE

    cacio
  68. Thread: Brand new

    by cacio
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    Re: Brand new

    I much prefer the regular one too. Smoother, richer, woodier.
    Chanel is know for controlling its distribution tightly, so I think it will be difficult to find it at a discount.

    cacio
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    Re: Amouage Tribute Attar

    Nothing comes to mind. Tribute is a woody-tobacco punch, extremely intense. Apparently (I don't own them) older batches had also more of a smoky note.

    cacio
  70. Re: Molecule 01 mystery: did I get the wrong juice or is olfactory fatigue a complicated thing?

    Strange. Molecule 01 should be iso-e, 02 ambroxan or the like, and 03 vetiveril. The three smell quite different. Iso-e and ambroxan can play a little peekaboo, and people have different sensitivies...
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    Re: Givenchy les parfums mythiques impressions

    I have not explored much, but apparently, there's been a shift even within the series, because the IFRA regulations have hit in 2010, after the first batch of releases. Givenchy III is not up to par...
  72. Thread: Meo Fusciuni

    by cacio
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    Re: Meo Fusciuni

    I need to smell this then, since I love Archives 69. Although what I like seems to be a heavy, borderline rotten note that I must be hypersenstive to.

    cacio
  73. Re: Reformulations - what I wish I stocked up on and what I should NOW!

    Sami:

    good to know. I'm still waiting to try the new reformulated Mitsouko, which apparently restores some of the chypre feel.

    cacio
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    Re: Going sniffing at Neiman Marcus

    Welcome!

    Sniffing as much as possible is the way to get started, because, as you point out, one does not know what's around, and there's no substitute to sniffing.

    Nose fatigue kicks in after 4...
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    Re: Amouage Tribute Attar

    If true, the article would further confirm the downward progression of a once reputable brand. At the same time, better pulling them than reformulating as they've done for several of the alcohol...
  76. Re: Reformulations - what I wish I stocked up on and what I should NOW!

    I think by now one should always act under the assumption that everything can be reformulated, or discontinued, whether by cheapening or neglect, or by IFRA. Unfortunately, the 2010 wave of...
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    Re: How do you guys organize your samples?

    Sounds like a good method.
    I put them in flat boxes, in alphabetical order by brand (in the sense that, say, the first box is letters ABC), and then one ziploc bag per brand. Not optimal, but my...
  78. Thread: Brand new

    by cacio
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    Re: Brand new

    Welcome!

    You are right that it doesn't make sense to spend too much early on. You may find other perfumes you like much more what you first thought you'd like. So sniffing as much as possible is...
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    Re: Average Joe's nose?

    If somebody's been wearing a scent a lot, they do realize if something major has changed. I don't think it would be so much about individual notes here and there, but, as others have pointed out,...
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    Re: What's the best men's musk fragrance?

    As others were saying, musk is a class of material that goes from very dirty to extremely clean. If you don't want the dirty variety, you have to check for the so called "white" musks. Some cited...
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    Re: Amouage Tribute Attar

    Welcome!

    I bought from zahras a few years back without problems, but I don't know since then. Tribute should be one of the two amouage attars also available in the west, and have not heard of...
  82. Re: The 18-point perfect fragrance wardrobe for gentlemen

    I agree with many of the frags in your list.

    One interesting thing is that you list Timbuktu as green. To me there's little green, it's more an incense. For green, I must go with Paco Rabanne...
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    Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Seconding some Chanels. Including Cuir de Russie, where the iris mixes beautifully with the plush leather. And then the fresh la Pausa.
    In Guerlain, Apres l'ondee is apparently a nice iris after...
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    Re: Fragrances and weight

    I don't think there should be a relation. If any, sometimes people talk about dry vs oily skin or the like, but I don't see why appearance should havve anything to do with perfumes.

    cacio
  85. Thread: Angel Eau Sucree

    by cacio
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    Re: Angel Eau Sucree

    And yet Angel could work - it's already as sweet as it gets, but it has such a strong sharp patch structure that if there's anything that can take more sugar, that's it.

    In general, though, I am...
  86. Re: What are the most 'challenging' ones among the Montale Ouds?

    The heavy Montale oud reconstruction is pretty challenging in general, but I'd say too that cuir d'arabie is the most challenging one because of the musks. Leather aoud is also challenging, but in a...
  87. Thread: Sample Advice

    by cacio
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    Re: Sample Advice

    I am not familiar with buying samples, but the price seems a bit steep.

    Egoiste is wonderful, but I don't care about the two Creeds (to me, respectively sharp cleaner and annoying soap), but this...
  88. Re: Which to buy? Pure distance 'M', Acqua Viva, or Iris 39

    Iris 39 for me, hands down. I find Iris 39 less carroty and fresher than ISM. I use a lot the side products (oils, body cream), whose effects in conjunction with chlorinated swimming pools I have...
  89. Re: Looking for Advice on My First Fragrance/Signature Scent

    Welcome!

    Since you don't know your way around perfumes yet, you should just smell as much as possible to get an idea of what things are. You are lucky because London has all the niche perfumer...
  90. Re: Yohji Homme - How to detect the original formulation?

    No particular relation (in the same way as, say, neither Prada nor Issey Miyake's perfumes bear any relation to the aesthetic of the house). Y Homme is a classical masculine, with a spicy woody base,...
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    Re: L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Timbuktu lasts pretty well on my skin, but as you were saying, everybody is different. In general, AP is considered to be more on the light side, on average. Dzing is another one that lasts well on...
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    Re: Considering blind buying Issey

    Eau d'Issey is an intensely marine perfume. Most people are ok with it, but some people (like me) strongly dislike this material, so you should definitely test before committing.

    cacio
  93. Thread: Anaïs Anaïs

    by cacio
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    Re: Anaïs Anaïs

    Funny how back then it was marketed to teens - and it did smell different from the perfumes women were wearing back then. Things change ...

    I agree with mike, lily does have a ham note (see Lys...
  94. Re: Scentless, fast-absorbing something for my hands

    As usual, everybody's skin is different. On me, creams with urea work really well. This would be Eucerin intensive repair hand cream, or its generic equivalents, like CVS dry skin therapy deep repair...
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    Re: Collecting Fragrances

    Everybody has his own collecting style.

    There are so many thousand fragrances that for me it doesn't make sense to buy something just because. Inevitably, one will find something one likes better....
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    Re: High school job at a fragrance counter?

    As others said. At the high end stores I've seen, they hire SA who have an air of sophistication and give the impression to have been around with wealthy people for a while. Which is not the case of...
  97. Re: Trying to narrow it down to two signature scents (cool and warm weather). Any other suggestions?

    Welcome!

    For the warm weather, I'd go with concentree d'orange vertes. We've had some discussions before here on BN about citruses and wether they last. The point is, true citrus notes don't last....
  98. Re: Lonestar Memories. Any fans? Feedback you've gotten while wearing it?

    I wear it. At the beginning, it was more appreciation for something unique, but then, as it often happens, when you wear it you realize that what smelled too much on paper wear wonderfully on the...
  99. Re: Is the Intense/Extreme version always superior?

    As others have said, there's no rule, each perfume is different. Sometimes it's similar but with more longevity, sometimes it's a somewhat different composition, and occasionally a very different...
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    470

    Re: Substitution for MDCI Enlevement au Serail

    Mocha:

    I didn't get much of the comparison with rue Cambon either, because EaS did have a truly chypre character, unlike rue Cambon. Also, EaS is more peachy.

    2 is very sad. But honest from...
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