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  1. Thread: Taking my leave

    by pkiler
    Replies
    65
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    2,299

    Taking my leave

    I relinquish all leadership and mentorship responsibilities.

    The forum will be what someone else wills it to be, than what I would wish it to be.
  2. Replies
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    Re: Copycats... Again >:(

    Blatant Theft is immoral.
    Somebody clones one of mine, they should expect consequences.
  3. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    I am one who knows, You are one who does not.
    Nearly everything you've said about these Jasmine bases, is completely wrong.
    PW bases ARE very cheaply made, amateurish bases.
    I can't think of any...
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    Re: Make your own Cool Water using essential oils

    uhhh, this NINE year old thread, doesn't need too much attention, since Fred the guy asking the questions hasn't even been on BN for more than eight years.

    And No, Cool water cannot be copied...
  5. Re: How can I dissolve the oil from roasted coffee beans?

    I don't normally dilute things to blend with, but some may already know this.

    Sometimes, products need help getting completely dissolved.
    CO2 extractions sometimes need fatty acid ethyl esters to...
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    Re: Rhodinol - Geraniol and Citronellol

    Here's what is in my files:

    Rhodinol Synthetic formula:

    Geraniol Ex Citronella oil- 70 gms
    Geraniol Pure- 81.725 gms
    Citronellol Pure- 23.275

    Total- 175 gms
  7. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    Watch out for people who try to steer people towards perfumersworld.
    ...
  8. Replies
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    Re: Melon accord - attempt, fail, and observation.

    Sure, Melonal, and Calone get you part way there.
    Somebody put a bug in my ear to make a long lasting Melon base, (akin to my Long Lasting Lemon base).
    I'm only just sort of working on that, but I...
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    Re: Melon accord - attempt, fail, and observation.

    I don't really think, though, that you're going to get to "melon" with all natural perfumes...
  10. Re: Remaking Gucci Gorgeous Gardenia for My Wife...

    The middle notes would be:

    105685
  11. Thread: Tiare accord

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    1,499

    Re: Tiare accord

    I have this tidbit of information specific to the Tiare Gardenia:

    "Tiare, the Queen of Polynesian flowers, is a striking, white, star-shaped flower that is actually a gardenia. It grows on a small...
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    Re: Iso/Et. Brass/hedione etc struggle

    I think that all of them *can be hard to smell, by themselves, and up close.
    Personally, I can smell all of them, but EB is the one that I smell the least. I was pouring some for a buyer of...
  13. Thread: Tiare accord

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    1,499

    Re: Tiare accord

    Honestly, I don't know the difference between a US garden Gardenia, and a Tahitian Gardenia Tiare.
    I have an impression that it might be more vanillic, but I certainly could be wrong.

    Do you have...
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    Re: Phenylacetic Acid

    Searching by text in my formulas, I see that it appears in these formulas of mine:
    Rose, jasmine, green tea, Vanilla Absolute, Civet, Leather, Honeysuckle, several perfumes of mine like my winner,...
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    Re: Chemical Analysis of Santal 33?

    Good Carrot Seed EO oil is hard to find, and it is easy to buy cold pressed, which is a much more common carrier oil, than to buy the steam distilled EO, and actually useful for Perfumery, while cold...
  16. Replies
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    Re: Chemical Analysis of Santal 33?

    :-) It wasn't really for me... just since the only information was what you posted, I wanted to help you understand that the information that you knew already, was important, sorry to intrude...
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    Re: Chemical Analysis of Santal 33?

    The only thing I can say, is that it would really surprise me that there was only one musk in Santal 33.

    The only other thing that I might make mention of, is that right now, you may only have one...
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    Re: Chemical Analysis of Santal 33?

    Dana, I see no reason at all for you to feel embarrassed...
    Congratulations!

    Oh, and do I assume that your numbers are drops of fluid?
    I have an apprentice coming next week, this will be a good...
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    Re: Chemical Analysis of Santal 33?

    Nice to hear of your success, Dana!

    My own recollection remembers a lot of Cedarwood, but could be wrong. Did Cedarwood figure into your blend?
  20. Thread: Powdery bases

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    9,317

    Re: Powdery bases

    This might help:
    ...
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    Voting for Member Permanent Removal

    Since Matt is only in a timeout, his return is assured, it seems when speaking with a moderator.
    BN seems to await several infractions before permanent bans are enforced.

    In the long term, there...
  22. Thread: Strip Holder

    by pkiler
    Replies
    7
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    781

    Re: Strip Holder

    Aaahhh! Someone posted a link to where you can buy these scent strip holders that I posted, Here:

    https://www.scentblotterstrips.com/product/tester-blotter-strip-holders/
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    Re: Wormwood and Wisteria

    With George here, don't know of a real extraction of wisteria. You must have a fragrance oil there...
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    Re: Disposing of failed experiments.

    Surely, We live in a near desert, that gets no rain for months, so evaporation is not an issue for runoff. But you must consider your own place environment...
  25. Thread: Strip Holder

    by pkiler
    Replies
    7
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    781

    Strip Holder

    This was sponsored swag for the Art + Olfaction Awards in Amsterdam recently, for all event ticket holders and the winners... And I've seen these out there, somewhere, these were obviously...
  26. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    have you smelled my Ere perfume?
  27. Replies
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    Re: Time between diluting and blending

    Sure, if you can build more consistency now, by doing good calculations to remedy the situation, by all means.
    But, having things at the odd amount of 15%, AT LEAST TO ME, still defeats to some...
  28. Replies
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    Re: Time between diluting and blending

    You can start right away to use them.

    Foundational to learning, is thinking in percentages.
    Consistency is what helps you previsualize a formula.
    Your dilutions have pretty much zilch for...
  29. Re: Blast from the Past: REALLY recommended especially if fairly new to perfuming but even if not!

    Cuts down on the nonsensical effluence too, and fortunately, you'll never know.
  30. Replies
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    Re: What makes the top note of patchouli oil?

    Uh, Eeek, don't sniff this full strength...
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    Re: Clove bud oil - Farnesol

    For Clove Bud oil, the Farnesol is inconsequential as compared versus the Eugenol content.
  32. Re: Blast from the Past: REALLY recommended especially if fairly new to perfuming but even if not!

    You can still join. But, No, It is not active much, hasn't been for many years, but since I left it and left as moderator, I can't actually speak for it any longer.
    When I joined, Andy Tauer was a...
  33. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    Well, George, I'll have to disagree that there is not a fundamental change in perfume construction...
    The Perfume world is one that follows best sellers, with more in the same vein.
    So, Following...
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    Re: Wanting to extend aroma longevity

    You might consider my fixative base at PSH, it is formulated to contain some molecules in the citrus direction that are very long lived, and it might match well with your need.
  35. Thread: Loss of smell

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    1,301

    Re: Loss of smell

    So Sorry Julian, The only thing I can think of to mention to you, is that I would not try to smell things that in normal smell capability for you, they would have burnt your nose, and hurt or lose...
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    Re: Vanilla tincture

    It would end up as what would be similar to a dilution in alcohol, of Vanilla Absolute. Sort of...
    I would guess it might end up being about like a 15% to 25% rate. Just use that as a portion of...
  37. Re: Looking for materials like Methyl Pamplemousse with longevity

    You can use Magnolan, Vigoflor, and Khusinil. And Nootkatone, if you can afford it.
  38. Replies
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    Re: La La Essential Oils - thoughts

    yes, Indeed. Never by from La La (Pragdish?) in India. They have several websites too, so it is even harder to figure out who they are sometimes, too...
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    Re: What vital materials am I missing?

    I would look up some demonstration accords( (On TGSC), in the direction that you like, or want to experiment with, and see what you don't have, and buy those, if you can buy them (Some demo accords...
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    Re: Ink and Hairspray

    I could send you some phenol, if you want to smell it all by itself...
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    Re: Anyone ever order from HBNO?

    All the products I have ordered from HBNO have been worth buying for their attributes and prices.
    I don't think you should have any reservations buying from them. I've bought all of their floral...
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    Re: how to make notes disappear faster?

    Search by molecular weight. The smaller the weight, the more short lived and volatile.
    TGSC has a MW Index.
    This is the first page:
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/allprom-1.html
  43. Replies
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    Re: Musk Ketone - Nobody can smell it.

    Since Musk Ketone is a very long lived material, it doesn't surprise me that *some people could not readily smell it, immediately.
    I can smell it in powder form, but since I never dilute it, I have...
  44. Replies
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    Re: What vital materials am I missing?

    My Production schedule is thick today. so sorry.
  45. Thread: Aldehydes

    by pkiler
    Replies
    4
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    588

    Re: Aldehydes

    In UK:
    https://pellwall.com/product-category/ingredients-for-perfumery/

    There's Herkserij in Netherlands:
    http://www.hexapus.nl/en/start.htm

    And Rebecca at (I can never remember how to spell...
  46. Thread: Aldehydes

    by pkiler
    Replies
    4
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    588

    Re: Aldehydes

    Where do you live?
  47. Replies
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    Re: What vital materials am I missing?

    I see only one floral synth, Hydroxycitronellal. I think you need some other varieties.
    I don't see any salicylates.

    Except for Neroli, I see no real florals.

    Hardly any green types...
  48. Re: I am so done with this ... I ruined my kitchen table!

    I bought a used formica countertop on Craigslist for $100.
    I wouldn't have anything else, really, If it was metal, bottles would break easier if they fell.
    Right now in my lab, the only time...
  49. Re: Hmmm, What makes Ammonia? I have an Ammonia note appearing in the bottle headspace.

    Hi Dimitry, I just did a calculation of the % of Isovaleraldehyde in the concentrate of the perfume, and got this percentage: 0.000055693%

    I do wonder if that is truly it, though... :-/
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    Re: How do I get that crispness?

    Offhand, I'd immediately attribute that note to Dihydromyrcenol.
    Get some and see if that's in the right lane of what you want. Many fragrances use between 5-9% of the perfume concentrate of this...
  51. Re: Hmmm, What makes Ammonia? I have an Ammonia note appearing in the bottle headspace.

    Hmm, don't have a way to test this.
    But after reading more about my prehistoric vegetal material, I see that it is treated / processed after being gathered, with NaOH, and with Nitrogen present....
  52. Hmmm, What makes Ammonia? I have an Ammonia note appearing in the bottle headspace.

    What makes Ammonia? I have an Ammonia note appearing in the bottle headspace when opened after sitting all night. I formulated this trial #5 last night, made sure it was mixed, dipped a strip, and...
  53. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    Spurious comment removed, so my reply is also removed.
  54. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    Reply to spurious comment no longer necessary, deleted.
  55. Re: Maybe useful: A lot of natural EO GC's, chosen from naturals that Ellena mentions most using

    That's a LOT!

    Check the Carrot GC, I think there's an error in there, Carotol down twice at nearly the same %
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    Re: Help with tincture

    You can get Frankincense tincture quite dense and sticky, I'd just leave that alone.
    Don't know black Storax. If plant, then as mentioned, if resin, then maybe more like Frank as mentioned....
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    Re: Possible Grossjman substitutes?

    I don't like to respond to Matt's posts but there is too much disinformation for me to stand by.
    The "Grosjman accord", by Sophia Grojsman, (please at least spell her name properly), is used in...
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    Re: Formula dilution percentages

    Absolutes like Tonka and Vanilla dissolve best into alcohol. Absolutes as a class of materials, always dissolve into alcohol. Tonka does require a low % of tonka to higher % alcohol...
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    Re: Help with tincture

    If you make an alcoholic tincture of a plant material, most likely you would still have more than 90% alcohol untouched, and able to dissolve anything else.
  60. Re: I am so done with this ... I ruined my kitchen table!

    It' better to either buy a sheet of stainless steel to work on, or to use a formica countertop to work on.
  61. Re: Who here has used red, yellow and/or green mandarin in a formula?

    IFRA compliance is voluntary worldwide.
    IFRA is not LAW.
  62. Re: Who here has used red, yellow and/or green mandarin in a formula?

    Yes, I think that the quote on Chris' site is at 6% of the finished product. But there's also this complicated Limonene IFRA thing having to do with other things to offset larger amounts of...
  63. Re: Who here has used red, yellow and/or green mandarin in a formula?

    Figuring out limits for the citrus oils is a little harder than one might expect.
    I see that Chris Bartlett mentions 6% is the limit from IFRA....
  64. Thread: Ambroxan

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    6,455

    Re: Ambroxan

    With enough time, reactions both occur in the concentrate, and in the alcohol. But this reaction time is months, not hours or days. If you have enough time, you can shape the outcome, if you like,...
  65. Re: Jasmin replacement and that mothball smell... what's your favourite jasmine

    Because of the very high dosage of benzyl acetate.
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    Re: Non-animal hyraceum

    All I can say is, That's a bunch of crap.
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    Re: Amazed again, a Watermelon molecule...

    I'm trying to organize it into a workshop. It really could be a two day weekend workshop.
    I taught the class at the Institute of Art and Olfaction a few years ago, and the amount that I have...
  68. Re: Bat-signal Q for Paul, James Peterson, rogala, Redneck Perfumisto and all having Firmenich civet

    Well, it does seem that PA bought an interest in Civettone: https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-8981-civettone-firmenich.aspx

    That should be pure, without bad notes, just as I mentioned...
  69. Re: Bat-signal Q for Paul, James Peterson, rogala, Redneck Perfumisto and all having Firmenich civet

    Well, to set the record straight, Civettone is a musk. It smells like a musk. It does not smell like civet paste, or have any skatole or indolic qualities.
    It is said to be, and is likely the...
  70. Replies
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    Re: Where to buy pre-made accords

    This is the only all natural accords and bases that I am aware of for sale in small quantities.
    You could find others, but you'll likely need to buy in 5kg MOQ. Or maybe larger. And from bigger...
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    Re: Hello! New and need help

    GMT, you should familiarize yourself extremely well, with the database at TGSC, which is most easily searched and accessed via www.perfumersearch.com
    On the left column are several types of...
  72. Replies
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    Re: Patchouli Flower

    I would ask Susan at CP.com, what it is, but my thought is that it is a fantasy note, and not a real or naturally inspired item.
  73. Re: Embarrassing ignorance: what proof alcohol was ised in vintage perfumes?

    I don't think I am capable to answer on what was used prior to my time of learning, for alcohol content, at least without some intensive research on your behalf, so I leave that question for you to...
  74. Re: Embarrassing ignorance: what proof alcohol was ised in vintage perfumes?

    Some materials solve into water better than alcohol, so sometimes, 190 is fine.

    Honestly, I don't buy 200 anymore, I just buy the 190 for everything.
    Makes life a bit simpler...
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    Re: Quince accord question for you

    I was just thinking of veloutone, but I am a little hesitant, until I can get the real fruit to smell.
    But I am curious, how much Rose is in there, Any thought for that?
  76. Replies
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    Re: Quince accord question for you

    OKAY Quince experts!

    I have three headspace GC's to consult with for Quince:

    Chinese Quince, or Chaenomeles sinensis

    Japanese Quince, or Chaenomeles speciosa (sweet) Nakai

    and
    Quince, or...
  77. Re: Brigitte Bräutigam: Niagara - Fougère-Citrus

    Well, it will last a lot longer! :-)
    How is it?
  78. Re: New to Fragrance-Making - Seeking Some Advice from Old Pros

    I have paid for nearly 20 GC tests, personally. Six of these results cost $1000 each. About three cost $400, the rest cost $100. Now, I pay $175, and get a pretty good result, loads better than...
  79. Re: New to Fragrance-Making - Seeking Some Advice from Old Pros

    Question #1

    Looking over a GC for a Calvin Klein fragrance that I am studying, I see that the topnotes can be given at 0.26%, middle at 31.38%, and the basenotes at 58.63%.
    This fragrance indeed...
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    Re: Quince accord question for you

    MiDDen, While I was in the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam, following receipt of my golden pear A+O Award, One subject i sought was to see if there was a third painting that might inspire a third perfume...
  81. Thread: Magnol

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    754

    Re: Magnol

    Still pure, on my hand, I get a rubber puck, almost industrial rubber glove from the Magnol.
  82. Thread: Magnol

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    754

    Re: Magnol

    I have a Magnol sample, but the level is quite high in the bottle, it is possible that I've never used it.
    I put a pure swipe on my hand to smell it with you...
    Honestly, I have trouble pulling...
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    Re: I don't like the term "blender".

    Uh, I see PK there! HAHAHA!
  84. Replies
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    Re: I don't like the term "blender".

    Wesley, That Givaudan Perfumer word of "builder", I think is the perfect descriptor...
    Excellent...
    Am purging all usage of "Blender" in my mind, replacing it with "Builder".

    :-)
  85. Replies
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    Quince accord question for you

    Since I am researching the odor profile of Quince fruit, as it is out of my range of experiences, I bought this quince marmalade from Portugal. Can anyone help me to understand how close or...
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    I don't like the term "blender".

    I really don't like the term, "blender". Every material has it's strength level, and it's place.
    You can't use a pyrazine at ten percent of a fragrance, but you can with Iso E Super.
    To me, that...
  87. Thread: Suede thoughts

    by pkiler
    Replies
    10
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    953

    Re: Suede thoughts

    Where did you get this?
  88. Replies
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    Re: Study plan suggestions

    Well, at only $23.00, it's certainly affordable and fine to buy a copy to leaf through and keep to learn through...
    ...
  89. Re: Just saying hello again after too long absence!

    Welcome!
    Do you have a mailing address?
  90. Thread: Vetiver Advice

    by pkiler
    Replies
    3
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    775

    Re: Vetiver Advice

    Natural vetiver extractions vary widely in odor profiles. I have at least 15 Vetivers, each smells differently.
    Indonesian is often quite smoky. Haitian can be quite a bit of "green". India, Sri...
  91. Re: "The world's first biotech musk - Ambrettolide-HC-Supreme"

    from a Scientist's LinkedIn Profile resume: "Engineered key pathway enzyme to meet strain composition metrics for our first commercial product with ACS, ACS’s Ambrettolide HC Supreme"
  92. Re: "The world's first biotech musk - Ambrettolide-HC-Supreme"

    Surely, evaluating a long lived musk is difficult from smelling the bottle for past 30 minutes... LOL!
    But from what I readily smell from opening and smelling the bottle, seems like it has a vegetal...
  93. "The world's first biotech musk - Ambrettolide-HC-Supreme"

    A supplier sent me a sample that arrived today,
    Has anyone else experienced this new musk yet?
  94. Replies
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    Re: Art of Scent 1889-2012

    Answered privately.
  95. Replies
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    Re: Shout Out to Paul

    Following on this Mango base discussion, Perfumer Supply House has placed the mango base back on the website. YAY!
    Also newly placed on PSH is my Vanilla Absolute replacer base, and my Fixative...
  96. Replies
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    Re: Art of Scent 1889-2012

    Glean what is possible from Burr, then move on...
  97. Replies
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    Re: Thick Jammy Rose - Advice

    Strawberry Furanone is extremely sweet. if used in this context, very small and careful dosing would be necessary.
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    Re: Super smelly materials storage . . ?

    oooh, eeek... any external modifications requires approval from the Nazified Homeowners Association, and a $150 fee. And signature from six neighbors, one of which is a racist delusional obsessed...
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    Re: tincturing lavender

    Is that sweetness the Coumarin?
  100. Replies
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    Re: Super smelly materials storage . . ?

    Yes, Nesting seems the best. It's just that I have a LOT of them, and I can't afford the space for each bottle to have a double bottled placement, so I am looking for grosser storage capability.
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