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  1. Re: The Top Ten Male Designer Fragrances Every Beginner Should Sample

    Great reference article! I like how you allow a person to fall down the rabbit hole of their preferences. Packed quite a lot of information in there, actually. Witty writing, too. An informative and...
  2. Replies

    Re: Guerlain Santal Royal

    Well, this just hit the local chains, and I have the smelling strip in front of me. There is no discernible sandalwood, and the general feel of the fragrance is marked by a light, smokey, highly...
  3. Thank you for the article, Bruce. I found the...

    Thank you for the article, Bruce. I found the story of your journey and your "insider's scoop" on animal products really interesting!
  4. Re: Caleche Soie de Parfum - vs the edt. What is the real Caleche?

    Thank you both, lpp and pomander! The Non-blonde's review was particularly helpful and has given me an idea of what I was smelling in the edt (that may have been lacking in the SdP).

    And good...
  5. Caleche Soie de Parfum - vs the edt. What is the real Caleche?

    I'd like some sage advice from the Caleche fans, please!

    I tried a bottle of the edt at a shop last week. The opening was pungent, almost off-putting, in the vein of Vol de Nuit. It smelled kind...
  6. Thread: Missoni

    by Mr. Bon Vivant

    Re: Missoni


    There are a few fragrances that Maurice Roucel worked on that are contemporary with his Missoni. DKNY Red Delicious and Nautica Voyage spring to mind. But Missoni is the best of the lot,...
  7. Re: How do you shop? (Harrods fragrance hall - overwhelming & next time take a map)

    Haven't been to Harrods since I was 11. All I remember is a train set I drooled over (and couldn't afford) and an expensive hamburger somewhere upstairs. :cheesy:

    I do enjoy those big fragrance...
  8. Re: *Soft* boozy, slightly sweet/fruity and/or nutty perfume

    Maybe Dolce Vita? There's a "boozy" impression from the woods, a bit fruity, kinda sweet, very light and unobtrusive. A maraschino cherry liquer would be close to the smell.

    I would have...
  9. Replies

    Re: Vintage Shalimar

    Yes, then it is older and, I'm sure, fantastic! Not all bottles have stamping or engraving on the bottom. Guerlain used a number of manufacturers. There are some internet guides that go into the...
  10. Replies

    Re: Alcohol Free Perfumes

    If I'm up to the challenge, I'll try to put some on tomorrow and drop a line here. :smiley:

    _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

    Well, that was easy! :cheesy: Black March absolute wears close to the skin, so a...
  11. Replies

    Re: Vintage Shalimar

    If it has a ground glass stopper it is pre-1962. If the stopper is plastic at the bottom, then it's after 1962. The label says simply "Shalimar", so it is pre-1980's. Around 1981 (I believe) they...
  12. Replies

    Re: Alcohol Free Perfumes

    CB doesn't use alcohol in his fragrances, so water and Diisopropyl Adipate are his carriers of choice.

    I have three of his "absolutes." They are not true absolutes, as in vanilla absolute, which...
  13. Re: New L'Heure Bleue - is it that bad? (Turin & Sanchez)

    This! Since you'll be receiving your vintages soon, you'll have a chance to compare for yourself. Once you sniff them I suspect what people have said here will "gel" and you'll get what many of the...
  14. Replies

    Re: Dior Homme If Getting DHI?

    Well, I guess I'm the nay-sayer. I think I've hit about 100 fragrances now. When I started out with 3, I never thought I would catch "the bug." I need to seriously pare down now.

    If Dior Homme is...
  15. Re: What have I bought? (L'Heure Bleue "vintage"?)

    Best guess is 80's, early 90's. The edt changed to the bouchon coeur style bottle in the 90's.
  16. Thread: hello

    by Mr. Bon Vivant

    Re: hello

    Ahlan wa sahlan, and enjoy the journey!
  17. Replies

    Re: Jicky - where is the filth?

    I love Jicky as well. The "raunch" is a much-maligned fecal note of civet. I've only sampled the edt and parfum, and I find that the civet is stronger in the parfum. But in both, it seems almost like...
  18. Re: Is L'Heure Bleue Vimtage Edt Really that Bad?

    All of the pre-2010 formulations are worthwhile. Each has a slightly different emphasis in the beginning...
    edc: powder/balsamic (romantic)
    edt: powder/medicinal (bite)
    edp: spice/floral (lush)...
  19. Re: Nahema by Guerlain, one bottle remained: blind buy?

    If you love rose and the price is reasonable.

    Guerlain Pdt's are from the 80's, so it just scrapes by as "vintage." I tested a bottle like this one last year. Sillage and longevity were OK. I...
  20. Replies

    Re: Pssst…. Hi!

    Ahlan wa sahlan!

    And this, most definitely:
  21. Re: Help, please: Jicky edc 1936, fake or not ?

    If you check ebay right now, you'll see a sealed vintage Jicky from the 60's. The color is different, a medium straw yellow, and that's for partially evaporated juice.

    [Apropos to the OP's...
  22. Is there a parfum/extrait in development for 31...

    Is there a parfum/extrait in development for 31 Rue Cambon? And how might the proposed EU bans affect a perfumer's ability to create extraits?
  23. Replies

    Re: Shem El Nessim by Grossmith

    Then I'll have to sniff Jarling, too! One of these days when I finally get to Paris... The marzipan was one of my favorite aspects of LHB, although I loved the whole from start to finish. The tip is...
  24. Replies

    Re: Have you ever smelt in your dream?

    Yes. I sometimes have dreams in which I'm out shopping and come across a cache of vintage frags. Sometimes they're cheap, and sometimes they're astronomically priced. But I can "smell" them when I...
  25. Replies

    Re: Shem El Nessim by Grossmith

    If you loved, really loved LHB, then you will be sorely disappointed. If it's your first time ever sniffing it, then ignorance is bliss. :smiley:

    There have been restrictions on eugenol,...
  26. Replies

    Re: Shem El Nessim by Grossmith


    Now that LHB is damaged beyond repair, I'm checking this out!
  27. Replies

    Re: Vero Mito

    Very interesting thread. Cristalle is OK, but I love Diorella. Will have to give this a sniff when I come across it.

    @Larimar, thank you! for the heads up regarding SLV. The verbena turned me off...
  28. Replies

    Re: My enthusiasm is waning

    I read your original post and later explanations, and it it sounds like you're feeling disillusioned because certain members are not what you thought they were: experts. They rehash the same old...
  29. Replies

    Re: Subtle warm apple pie fragrance?

    + for Hermessence Ambre Narguile. Very radiant on a blotter, so not sure how subtle it is on skin. Smelled to me like an apple spice candle.

    YSL Cinema edt has a warm vanilla-y spicy aura to it. A...
  30. Re: “We should put more energy to the things we like about ourselves”

    Of course it's marketing, but it's done well. Being seen "doing something good" is very endearing. No need even to involve your product in that case, I suppose. Regardless, the commercial mentioned...
  31. Re: If you love and lament Crepe de Chine, consider trying this frag...

    Ah, too bad about the ruined vintage! I know the feeling...

    The CdC parfum that I have is rather old, and is muted. But the opening is still heavy on the aldehydes. I don't get aldehydes per se...
  32. If you love and lament Crepe de Chine, consider trying this frag...

    I was driving home from the mall the other day and kept getting wiffs of what smelled a great deal like Crepe de Chine floating up from my hand. After a while I finally realized what it was...

  33. Replies

    Thanks for an enjoyable read! It made me feel...

    Thanks for an enjoyable read! It made me feel like I was there, too.
  34. Replies

    Re: Shalimar Ode a la Vanille (2012)

    The first release didn't impress me, but this one is much more appealing with its nod to vintage Shalimar, as noted above. I only tested this on a blotter and will have to go back to try it on skin....
  35. Re: From National Geographic: The Smell of (Outer) Space


    @furrypine, yes, it was a great turn of phrase. I thought the actual description of the smell sounded like it fit nicely in the Comme des Garcons line!
  36. From National Geographic: The Smell of (Outer) Space

    Natl. Geo News has a short article about the smell of outer space (not the space station), as described by astronauts.

    Yes, there is no oxygen out there.
    No, go read the article for yourself.
  37. Re: L'Heure Bleue 2012 edition and reformulation ??

    Another reformulation of LHB? Fortunately, Guerlain already broke my heart in 2010, so this one holds no appeal.
  38. Replies

    Re: Montale Fragrance Name Generator v1.1

    Not fair! Not fair! No thread should be this capable of making a person shoot milk out their nose.

    "Candy Alexander Oud" should be trademarked asap. Not to mention Velvet Unicorn Vibe.
  39. Replies

    Re: Axe beats Chanel..In Shoplifted Items

    Thanks for the link! What an eye-opener... "One in every 11 people walks out the door with at least one item they didn’t pay for." I'm actually shocked...

    ...and depressed.
  40. Replies

    Re: A new-to-me use for pipettes

    Other people do this too?!

    I thought I was the only one...

  41. Replies

    Re: Turin/Sanchez are wrong about...

    Well said, Stuigi!

    +1 Before Google, we had these lovely (sometimes unlovely), often dusty, rectangular things that opened new horizons with the turn of a page.

    @OP: Dior Addict. While...
  42. Re: BBC Horizon's "A Code In The Nose" FINALLY!! On YouTube

    That was really interesting. (And from "way back" in 1995!) Thanks!
  43. Re: IFRA's banned/restricted ingredients: some thoughts.

    @ OP: I had the same problem. Funny, though, cause I could even wear a couple of heavy-hitting fragrances like Drakkar or Joop! But walking through the fragrance department was torture. I could...
  44. Replies

    Re: L'Heure Bleue anniversary in 2012!

    A memorial would be more appropriate...
  45. Replies

    Re: Shalimar Parfum Initial

    Ditto. On it's own terms it is quite a nice iris fragrance. I prefer Guerlain's iris take as it is fleshed out in Iris Ganache, but Parfum Initial is better put-together than IG. I do find a...
  46. Sticky: Found: Complete Onlive Archive of Luca Turin's "Duftnotes"

    For fellow fans of Dr. Turin's "Duftnotes":

    If you ever only read the 2005-6 articles (the defunct pdf, or on, or
    If you enjoyed the 2009-10 articles that were linked to in previous...
  47. Re: Turin & Sanchez -- A Little Book of Perfumes

    And I thought it was just me! I bought a new bottle of parfum this summer. I think it's more floral, and there is less spice, less incense, less pastry in the base. Just - less. It also seems like...
  48. Re: Guerlain 2010 Reformulations - Shalimar (Jade Jagger bottle), Vetiver, Habit Rouge etc.

    Thanks so much for your breakdown of the latest Shalimar!

    I did a side-by-side with the batwing bottle and found it airier. It stumped me. I couldn't put my finger on it, but "vacuum" is...
  49. Replies

    Poll: Re: Is perfume a luxury ?

    This. I put perfume up with other small luxuries like a good bittersweet chocolate or quality coffee. I consider these luxuries because these are things that 1) give me enjoyment and 2) are...
  50. Re: Tom of Finland by Etat Libre d'Orange smells like rubber, powder and saffron

    +1 I like the lemon opening: clear, light, and bright. And I can pick out the powder and rubber as supporting players - but they stay in the background. ToF, to my nose, is all about the saffron:...
  51. Re: What your mouth can teach you about smelly molecules.

    This was not the kind of thing I wanted to read while eating breakfast. :tongue: Thanks for posting it, though.
  52. Re: HUMBLED: expecting niche and wowed by designer!

    Thanks for the story! There are plenty of good designer frags that still have the power to wow...

    I had my own reminder recently. I got home the other day to find a group of three young people...
  53. Replies

    Re: Stilboide Fluid

    Dimitri, have you tried them on skin? How do you think they'd do in terms of sillage? Compared to an edc, or oil perfumes, etc.? Any info is much appreciated (especially re the Guerlains)!
  54. Re: Christopher Sheldrake Interview for GQ Russia

    A new perfume by Chanel slated to be launched this year in the Les Exclusifs line. More about it and No. 19 Poudre here.
  55. Replies

    Re: Musky Citrus?

    I get patchouli, amber, and vanilla in the base of L'Instant rather than musk, so I would recommend also trying Guerlain's Pamplelune, if you like grapefruit. Along similar lines as L'Instant but...
  56. Replies

    Re: Pronunciation of 'Aoud'


    A glottal stop will get you a different letter altogether, the "hamzah". But you're in the right area and half-way there... :thumbsup:

    I'm with Hedonist in that the mp3 sounds a...
  57. Re: Why is Guerlain Obsessed with the Letter "I" for their New Releases?

    Ooooo! Sounds very trendy, very Hermessence. What are the notes? :tongue:
  58. Re: best orientals and floral orientals for a man (vintage preferably) ?


    No Guerlains on your list?! Have you tried Shalimar and L'Heure Bleue? Shalimar parfum de toilette (80's) is particularly sweet and musky. You really can't top these. Habit Rouge is very...
  59. Re: Why is Guerlain Obsessed with the Letter "I" for their New Releases?

    I think this is more likely. But who knows? It could be a fetish...

    Your post prompted me to google the idea, but I couldn't come up with anything pertaining to the use of the letter "i"...
  60. Replies

    Re: Fragrance pet peeves!

    I'll have to go with:

    1) No samples
    2) Nice top, no bottom
    3) Ugly bottles

    Aww, I like splash bottles, at least for edc's and extraits. I do think frags generally do better when...
  61. Replies

    Re: Jicky Sport

    ROTFL! Please, please, don't give them any more ideas.

    I was very open-mined about flankers to begin with, but I've grown increasingly disenchanted with the idea. Now I'll only actively search for...
  62. Re: Next Lutens to be released: Vitriol d'oeillet and De Profundis

    Sorry, no Aramex experience personally. I opted to use Saudi Post's My Address in America service, which also has a UK address. I have yet to buy a Lutens exclusive, but I've bought other perfumes....
  63. Re: Suggestion for a stark fragrance (niche only)

    If you are interested in a stark "incense" frag, then try Armani Prive Bois d'Encens. I just smelled it for the first time and it strikes me as being very stark. It smells like a very natural,...
  64. Re: Next Lutens to be released: Vitriol d'oeillet and De Profundis

    Scent, do you have access to a forwarding service with a UK or continental address, like Aramex or similar? Might be one way to get your hands on those e-l-u-s-i-v-e e-x-c-l-u-s-i-v-e-s...
  65. Replies

    Re: Just bought Chanel No.5 and No.19!

    Congrats on taking the plunge. I bought No. 19 last year and No. 5 a few months back, both edp as well. The edps have some sweet muskiness going on that IMO make them more approachable than the edts....
  66. Replies

    Re: New Fragrance: Memo Shams

    Despite the awful copy... I actually find myself interested... :embarassed:

    Will it smell like horses, too?
  67. Re: I think I know why Chanel Egoiste is no longer available at department stores in the U.S.

    Ha, ha, ha! That would be a top seller. They could call it something pseudo-French, like "Eau Americana".

    Seriously, though, it's all about the $$$.
  68. Re: Your Top 3 Fragrances... If You Never Came Across Basenotes

    I probably would have replaced my Chanel Allure Homme or bought Chanel Platinum Egoiste - which had been on a years-old wish list but Basenotes subsequently saved me from. But I certainly wouldn't...
  69. Replies

    Re: GUCCI discontinuations: THE WORD

    Envy is going on the back-up bottle list. Thanks for the heads up!
  70. Re: Stephen Colbert introduces inEscapables to one-up Febreze NoticeAbles

    Lol, thanks for the laugh. I actually thought the Febreeze commercial was part of the spoof. Forgot how dopey the ads are these days...

    +2 for "aromatrocities". But "musky pundit" made me cringe.
  71. Replies

    Re: Something basic about Kouros

    Oh, come on. It's not that bad.

    @ the OP: I usually wait for the dry-down to kick in before doing a skin sniff test. It's to be expected that some fragrances with enjoyable sillage might not hold...
  72. Replies

    Re: "Against the grain" fragrances

    An eldery man in our neighborhood wears Kouros. He looks to be in his 80's, so I confess I was surprised. Not only because he would have been precluded from the "young buck" category when it first...
  73. Replies

    Re: My wife HATES my Guerlain!!!!!

    My condolences. Really, there's nothing one can say on these occasions, except that our hearts go out to you. L'Instant pour Homme Extreme was elegant, handsome, and charming. Not one for witty...
  74. Replies

    Re: Fragrances that last TOO long.

    Agreed. My collection has gotten to the point where I enjoy changing frags during the day. So nuclear longevity can irk me sometimes. I still love the scents. It just means I have to be in the mood...
  75. Re: How many of you are on a Vintage hunt, or were at some point in the past ?

    I always have my eyes peeled when I'm out at small perfume stores. If something vintage or discontinued catches my eye then I read up on it, to either purchase... or let it go. I haven't looked for...
  76. Replies

    Re: Tuberose smell in the air

    Thank you, Cacio, for this thread! I've found myself being drawn to tuberose this spring and now I've found some frags to look out for.

    Can anyone comment on Byzance? Turin calls it "tuberose...
  77. Replies

    Re: Would you wear Amouage Epic Women?

    There's an EXTRAIT !?!?!?!?!!? Where have I been??

    @ NineXseven, in your opinion, how's the sillage and longevity compared to the edp?

    @ OP: Yes. Unisex, wear it in public. Definitely.
  78. Re: Christopher Sheldrake is not the "perfumer" for Serge Lutens

    On the whole, if you approach SL as you would an art studio, then it isn't surprising and I don't see what the fuss is about.

    People idolize Rembrandt or Ingres, and yet they forget, or don't...
  79. Replies

    Re: Gucci Envy: Am I the only guy...

    Wear it! I have a few green scents: Envy, Diorella, Cristalle, No. 19, and Eau de Campagne - and so far Envy has come out in the lead for me.

    I do wear one of my wife's signature frags, but I...
  80. Re: The effects of fragrance on those around us

    I rather think, for ladies, a bitter green chypre = don't mess with me. There is definitely something hands off about them. But I wonder how people would react to a woman wearing something like Jules...
  81. Re: First spray from new bottle different?

    Yes. I had it happen with a couple of bottles from 2003. The first spray was distinctly off, and it took three of four more to "clear" the tube. The juice in the bottle was fine. I've also noticed...
  82. Re: Tried and loved Shalimar. Mitsouko deserves a try?

    For the sake of education sniff Mitsouko even if it's not up your alley. The Guerlain classics are generally beautiful, each in their own way.

    But if you're looking for "sweet and offensive" (may...
  83. Re: Keith really DOES wear Habit Rouge... among other things.

    LOL, that's a brass incense burner sitting on top of a bottle. But nice guess. :laugh:
  84. Replies

    Re: Jasmine Cologne

    Agreed, the name is awful. One of the worst name-to-frag pairings I've ever seen.
  85. Replies

    Re: Jasmine Cologne

    For a jasmine edc I'd highly recommend Ferre's In the Mood for Love. The top-notes smell like a slightly floral lemon, not too sharp. The middle notes are magnolia and jasmine, nicely balanced. The...
  86. Re: What do you do with all your fragrances that you don't really enjoy?


    I wish I had that kind of fortitude. The occasional blind buy or top-note infatuation ensures I have at least a couple of stinkers. But anything that falls from favor ends up going to...
  87. Re: Eau de Pamplemousse Rose VS Concentre d`Orange Verte

    I like both, and IMO the Concentree is a better fragrance in terms of composition. But I actually prefer both the regular Orange Vert and Pamplemousse Rose. I prefer their woodiness over the chypre...
  88. Re: I have a few questions for anyone willing to help a fumehead out!

    Agreed. Rather it is the meat and drink of philosophers. And art professors.

    Also search the perfume blogs for interviews with perfumers. I've read interviews with Maurice Roucel and Olivia...
  89. Re: Let's make up some SILLY PERFUME THREAD TITLES here!

    Perfume House X announces the up-coming launch of a new fragrance in 2012. [link to article in Vogue] What's it gonna smell like?

    My new-in-box, cellophane-wrapped,...
  90. Re: Niche fragrance w/ noticeable anise/licorice note.

    +1 for Douce Amere. I don't really "do" licorice, but I found Douce Amere to be an unusual, well-blended, balanced, woody oriental. Not cloying. Well done, Serge!
  91. Replies

    Re: Experience with Costume National 21?

    It's a very nice unisex floral oriental, big on the amber in the dry-down.

    It does not smell like Bogart Pour Homme. CN21 is anise, some "florals", and big amber. BPH is big cherry tobacco. That...
  92. Replies

    Re: I restore my MYSTERY with this scent:

    That's an interesting way of looking at it. I think I know what you mean... There are times when I get into a particular fragrance more from who I want to "be" than from just "mood". ?
  93. Re: Article: European Commission follows IFRA's decision to ban Musk Xylene

    That would be truly horrifying.

    But you have to give them credit for their PR spin. "Ooohhh, thank you IFRA for making the world a safer place!" *warm fuzzies* It's evil genius, that is.
  94. Replies

    Re: The Write Fragrance

    Enlèvement au Sérail (you're tricky!)

    Blossoming under turquoise waves

    Present moment: L'Instant
    French custard: L by Lolita Lempicka
  95. Replies

    Re: SotD - Wednesday, 23 February 2011

    Kenzo Flower Essentielle

    Hypnotic Poison Elixir
  96. Re: 24, Faubourg by Hermès: EDT compared with EDP

    I love 24 Faubourg as well. I have both and just wore them yesterday. The two formulations are close to each other, with the edp being a bit deeper and richer, the edt a little thinner. Further...
  97. Replies

    Re: The Write Fragrance

    My immediate association: purple box + Marley horse = Shalimar Extrait. But I'd offer The Unicorn Spell on a more serious note. ?

    Wading through French custard.
  98. Replies

    Re: Amouage Oud wood chips for sale?!

    If they really are Amouage then they are oud, without question. Bukhoor like this is always oud.

    As for the price, the highest quality ouds actually do command those kinds of prices. I'm not...
  99. Replies

    Re: Amouage Oud wood chips for sale?!

    Well, I wouldn't put it past them. :evil:

    While I can't speak for this particular offering, this style of bukhoor is very common here: they are made of large oud chips, often soaked in perfume or...
  100. Replies

    Re: Perfumer behind Amouage Homage?

    Re Gold Woman, according to a couple of sources (including The Guide) the perfumer is Guy Robert, i.e. it is the original Amouage fragrance re-named.
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