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  1. Replies
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    Re: Raw Material Suppliers in Canada

    Regarding Saffire Blue, I've been satisfied with their products (alcohol, bottles, pipettes, test strips, have not bought aromatics) and their customer service (including resolving a small order...
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    Re: Melting it all together

    I'd say adjust the mix. What you describe sounds like the usual result of having the proportions not quite right. Try lowering the amount of the strong-smelling materials and/or raising the amount of...
  3. Thread: Violet flower

    by Septime
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    Re: Violet flower

    My research suggests that dimethyl hydroquinone may be important to the natural violet character. It's a strong greenish-coumarinic scent by itself. In the GC it shows up at comparable volume to...
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    Re: DIY beard oil - fragrance request

    Oh, that’s a different story. I’m not aware of the Profumo version having hedione in it, though I suppose it might have a little under the citrus.

    Ourmessis right, the ingredients are usually...
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    Re: DIY beard oil - fragrance request

    One possible option would to be to take a major ingredient from Acqua di Gio and add more of it for reinforcement. From looking it up in the directory, I see that Acqua di Gio pour Homme has Hedione...
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    Re: need help: formula for wood-amber-orris

    While it lacks the ionones, this accord from an IFF document might suit the 'men's formula with spices' context:

    "Black Spice, Smooth Leather and Enriching Woods accord #1305"
    Timbersilk 100...
  7. Orris or Irone? Violet leaf or 2,6-Nonadienal?

    Which would you buy if you had to pick one, and why?


    a) orris butter or alpha-irone?

    b) violet leaf absolute or trans-2,cis-6-nonadienal?

    You're also welcome to propose "Neither, I would...
  8. Re: Strange Fragrance Oil or print Error ??? who know Amboroxan ? Frederic Malle "Promise"

    Hi and welcome Cliveli,

    As a native English speaker, I am very confident that 'amboroxan' is just a mistaken spelling of 'ambroxan.' The mistake of adding an extra 'O' is much more plausible than...
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    Re: How to Create an Accord?

    Alexzi, where is your country? I know of several options in North America, several in Europe, and one in Southeast Asia.
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    Re: How to Create an Accord?

    The same way as you would with two or three: try different proportions until it smells right. However, the more oils in an accord, the more possible combinations there are and the more difficult it...
  11. Re: Looking for notes that go with honeysuckle

    I second Julian’s suggestion, I use that site constantly. As a demonstration of what it can do, I used it to search for ‘honeysuckle absolute’ (probably not exactly what you bought but gets us in the...
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    Re: Newbie needs help with perfume

    That looks like a pretty solid formula to me. I was surprised by the peppermint but it makes sense, since it goes nicely with lavender, geranium, rose, rosewood and vanilla. I think you're right...
  13. Re: Is cosmetic base water any good for making perfume?

    You mean this stuff?

    The website says it's 95% denatured alcohol + fragrance including anisyl alcohol. They recommend it either for making fragrance if you don't mind the faint scent, or...
  14. Re: Don't Add Water, Glycerin or Jojoba to Alcoholic Perfumes

    I think that one source of confusion is that many people come to perfumery via aromatherapy. Aromatherapy's focus is on massage and cosmetic applications, where fixed oils or oil-water emulsions are...
  15. Re: Don't Add Water, Glycerin or Jojoba to Alcoholic Perfumes

    I can heartily recommend Picaridin from experience. Sometimes appears as 'Icaridin' on labels. The WHO recommends it because it's safer to use on the very young. Low odour, lacks most of DEET's...
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    Re: Key Accords of famous fragrances

    Define 'famous'?

    Most of these come from Philip Kraft or Calkin & Jellinek and the rest from hear-say. I will skip fragrances that are mostly one ingredient (e.g. Kiehl's Musk = 93% Galaxolide)...
  17. Re: MELYSFLOR FIRMENICH - Anyone familiar with it?

    I'm working on a mellis formula at the moment (trying to drag the genre out of the 80's ...), so I went looking for Melysflor details. They're oddly scarce. The GSC database files it under 'mint...
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    Re: Dilution of Essential Oils

    I agree with PK, 5% is not strong enough. Try increasing it to 10%, and if you still don’t like it, increasing that to 15% or 20%. Most perfumes are in that range of strength. 5% is mostly for...
  19. Re: Development Hell - Fragrance not turning out the way you want it

    I take some comfort in knowing that even veteran perfumers have to 'try, try again.' Sometimes they talk about it in interviews, but Michel Almairac went so far as to label each scent in his personal...
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    Re: Pine/juniper fixative

    If you mean Levistamel, it's a strong-smelling lactone that smells like caramel with a hint of soup herbs, and Perfumer's Apprentice sells it pre-diluted.
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    Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    Why thank you :)
    I try to be the kind of resource I needed a year ago :laugh:
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    Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    The Grosjman accord is unusual because for once you don't need to be precise. All of the materials are so mild that a bit more or less won't hurt, it will still work. 'Roughly equal portions' is what...
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    Re: The more things I smell....

    I recall reading in Perfumer & Flavourist that in blind tests people rate unfamiliar smells as stronger and harsher than familiar smells, even when they're objectively less strong. It's probably a...
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    Re: Minimal forest fragrance

    Chris Bartlett mentions on his website that isobornyl acetate, amyl salicylate and coumarin form a 'walk in the forest' accord. He'd presumably have an English-Welsh forest in mind, given where he's...
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    Re: Menardo's Gaiac 10

    Ahh, thank you, that makes more sense. I think you're right, they're probably highly similar since Glossier You is said to be inspired by Gaiac 10.

    Looking through my "what is used in what" file...
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    Re: Menardo's Gaiac 10

    Thank you. To be clear, are you talking about Gaiac 10 here, or do you mean one of the other ones?
    None of what you mention here would surprise me for Gaiac, except the muguet ingredients, which I...
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    Menardo's Gaiac 10

    I haven't been able to find a publicly available GC-MS of Annick Menardo's Gaiac 10 for Le Labo Tokyo. Does anyone here have any idea - informed speculation, 'a little bird told me' - what might be...
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    Re: Is all natural better?

    Runstile gives good advice here. You can usually look up an ingredient to find out what it can dissolve in.



    Yes, that's what I was trying to say. I wasn't being precise, just suggesting a...
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    Re: Is all natural better?

    This is true. There's no problem with preferring naturals for their aesthetic effect, especially in colognes which tend to use lots of natural citrus oils. However, as I think you've discovered,...
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    Re: Substitute for costus?

    No relation to costus that I can find. It's described as cuminic and sweaty and so is plain old cumin seed EO, so I'd start there.
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    Re: Quick word association...

    Phenolic notes generally: castoreum, the medicinal note in clove or sometimes in vanilla oleoresin.
    Sumi ink, the borneol-musk contrast.
    Raspy-tannic-bitter black tea.
    Benzoin, styrax.
    Anethole,...
  32. Re: Fragrance Oils Vs Essential Oils Vs Concentrated Perfume Oils (Attars)

    To put it more precisely:

    Fragrance oils can be all synthetic ingredients, all essential oils or a mix of both. That's not what determines whether they are safe to use on the body. What makes the...
  33. Thread: Apple Note

    by Septime
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    Re: Apple Note

    Maybe the damascones? I know from the SDS that Dorinia includes at least beta-damascone.
  34. Re: Agrippa on Aromatics as relates to the magic of the time (1400's)

    Tim's right, it's Lepidium sativum aka ordinary garden cress like you would put in a sandwich. Based on this its main volatiles are benzyl cyanide (GSC: bitter almond spicy floral) and benzyl...
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    Re: Extracting Cacao Essential Oil

    Speaking as a fellow amateur oil distiller, my sympathies!

    To my knowledge the only two ways to extract cacao are:

    a) solvent extraction which gives you this stuff:

    Cocoa Absolute Grasse...
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    Re: looking for some info on natural oils

    Depends on how strictly you mean 'man-made.' I'd say it's a matter of degree:

    1) Some single molecues are just separated out from essential oils by processes like e.g. freezing mint oil so that...
  37. Re: Does this look like an okay Perfumer's Apprentice Order?

    Since you asked for urgent tips for a newb:


    - Definitely go for the alcohol! Jojoba is so heavy and thick it barely lets you smell anything. It's only good for massage oil. Alternatives:...
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    Re: What can be used with saffron

    Hello Ahmed,

    I too am working on a saffron fragrance. My research notes say that natural saffron contains phenyl ethyl alcohol and beta-ionone, so rose and violet/iris notes should both work with...
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    Re: "Today I gift my fragrance formula!"

    I love the name of this formula, thanks for sharing it!

    This snippet view of Gattefosse makes it look like Panaxol is an opoponax base with a mushroom-woody-tobacco-leathery undertone. ...
  40. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    Edit: belatedly realized I had misunderstood the comment I was responding to, thus my response was irrelevant.
  41. Re: Whats the oddest, rarest natural material you used in a perfumes?

    Sugi EO - Japanese red-cedar. This is the scent of a Japanese building interior, because it is used so extensively for panelling and furniture. Greener and spicier than Virginia cedar.

    Kuromoji EO...
  42. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    No, they don't. They sell vegetable oils and functional product bases (e.g. hair conditioner), and their own proprietary non-alcohol solvent mixture which sounds like it could plausibly be IPM/DPG. ...
  43. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    It's hard to make a one-size-fits-all recommendation. Every online course is aimed at a different audience - all-botanical, EU-regulated, etc. - so the question is whether you are the right audience....
  44. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    Perfumer's World training doesn't include 'local tradition' at all. Dowthwaite is a Brit who teaches western-style perfumery, he just happens to live in Thailand. There's no Thai influence or...
  45. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    I hope Paul will forgive me for chiming in, because I was the one who requested he discuss this subject. He expressed frustration with PerfumersWorld students who have mistaken PW's idiosyncratic...
  46. Re: What ways can a methyl salicylate, naphthalene and indole accord be used

    According to my copy of Tisserand methyl salicylate occurs naturally in tuberose, cassie (Acacia farnesiana) and sometimes ylang-ylang.

    According to the same source indole is found in jasmine...
  47. Re: Always been curious: formula for Dragon's Blood?

    Based on its 'Viewed' stat this is one of our most-read threads despite being both old and short. Evidently people are searching for information about 'dragon's blood' and landing here. For their...
  48. Re: Has anyone tried blood cedar wood, or other uniqe materials from Aftel?

    Well spotted Bex!

    "Blood cedar" appears to be a middling-common trade name for plain old Juniperus virginiana aka 'red cedar.' The older trees give reddish oil rather than the usual yellow.
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    Re: Japanese incense links;

    I second Parker's recommendation of Shoyeido's 'White Cloud/Haku-Un.' Baieido has another very traditional and inexpensive stick called simply Koh (the red-and-white box at the bottom of the page)....
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    Re: Preserving the essential oils

    My notes say to add 0.2% Vitamin E i.e. one part Vitamin E to 499 parts of the oil or extract. That's by weight not volume, since drops of oil/extract and drops of gooey Vitamin E won't be the same...
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    Re: Has anyone been to Perfumers world?

    PK, would you be willing to expand on this? I'm interested in the strengths and weaknesses of different systems. To me Perfumer's World's alphabetic system appears easy-to-memorize but therefore...
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