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  1. Thread: Petunia

    by Nizan
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    9
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    1,029

    Re: Petunia

    I believe David has a lot of experience with Petunias..
  2. Thread: White Violets

    by Nizan
    Replies
    14
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    1,702

    Re: White Violets

    Hmm.. this morning came across another mention of white Violets on S&C - he says that white Violets smell more argestic/terpenic.
    Plus, during the weekend I smelled Viola Tricolor - it's very...
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    Re: Phenylacetic acid?

    For me it was only bearable under 0.1%..
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    Re: Appell's base: with what can I replace...?

    Musk Ketone isn't so hard to obtain - PA and CP carry it..
    As for Ambrette - you could ask Jamie :)
    Also, CP have some Ambrette replacements - though I have no idea how close they are to the...
  5. Thread: White Violets

    by Nizan
    Replies
    14
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    1,702

    Re: White Violets

    But why mention it, if they all smell the same?
    Which reminds me you once wrote about a Petunia you researched.. I don't remember the ones I had smelled.. Was it blue veined?
  6. Thread: White Violets

    by Nizan
    Replies
    14
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    1,702

    Re: White Violets

    I didn't know most Violet breeds have a smell. Maybe I will try to get some seeds locally.
    So I guess "white" in this context could just imply 'clean'?
  7. Thread: White Violets

    by Nizan
    Replies
    14
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    1,702

    White Violets

    Hi everyone,

    Looking over the Sens et Bois notes list, I thought that white violets was a fantasy note. However, after some Googling, it seems there are white (and yellow) violets, and that the...
  8. Replies
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    Re: Peppery drydown in Sens et Bois by TDC

    I will check it when I'm done assessing some Frankincense.
    I was trying to find some information about Franincense Rivae, but can't find anything.. How come its drydown is soo dry-woody and long...
  9. Replies
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    Re: Pushing up Basil abs.

    Thanks!
    I've recently notices this Chinese Honeysuckly note in a room fragrance, and in this context I did notice Lin. Ox :)
  10. Replies
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    Re: Peppery drydown in Sens et Bois by TDC

    I will give it a try.
    Just tried Olibanol - but it's not really close.
    I've also put some Franincense Rivae on a blotter - I think it was more woody..
  11. Replies
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    Re: Peppery drydown in Sens et Bois by TDC

    It probably has tons of it.. but iso E super isn't dry/peppery.
    As for Olibanum Coeur - never smelled it.. Does it smell like any of the other Franincense species? It proably doesn't smell like the...
  12. Replies
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    Re: Boosting castoreum note during drydown?

    I was just going to mention Phenyacetic acid. It's a pretty kinky odor.
    Have you checked the more cresolic Vanilla molecules?
  13. Replies
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    Re: How do you guys get back on the horse?

    Will they fit the 1 dram bottles PA are selling? They have different screwing patterns (whatever your call them).
    Maybe a bit of Teflon could improve the seal?
  14. Replies
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    Re: Boosting castoreum note during drydown?

    Styrax is nice.. Suederal and various leather bases from PSH..
    Also Cassie and Frankincesne resinoid were useful when I worked on a leather theme.
    And methyl Ionone alpha, as David once...
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    Re: How do you guys get back on the horse?

    Same here. I will find a way to keep them with the lids, and use pipettes.. Or store the bottles with their pipettes in the same compartment.
    Frustrating.
    I think the evaporation rate with DPG is...
  16. Replies
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    Re: Peppery drydown in Sens et Bois by TDC

    I've been evaluating Elemi Heart from Hermitage, and after around 12 hours I get a note that is similar to the one I mention.. Only it's much much stronger in the perfume than in what's left of the...
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    Re: How do you guys get back on the horse?

    Things started moving again! I'm evaluating materials :)
    Maybe I'll tidy some things up on Saturday..
    Thanks!
  18. Replies
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    Re: Peppery drydown in Sens et Bois by TDC

    Sorry, should have been more specific.. Peppery - > black pepper..
  19. Replies
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    Peppery drydown in Sens et Bois by TDC

    Well, while I'm getting back on my smelly horse, here's something that has been frustrating me for a while.
    I can't figure out what give TDC's Sens et Bois its nose tingling peppery drydown (pretty...
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    How do you guys get back on the horse?

    Hi everyone,

    Due to some events, I took a break from mixing.. And now I have time again, and trying to get myself back to mixing.
    I have a lot of bottles to clean, I have to re-dilute everything,...
  21. Thread: Fig tree

    by Nizan
    Replies
    21
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    1,902

    Re: Fig tree

    I never thought of using it for that! Thanks! Could help with the Stemone harshness I guess..
  22. Thread: Fig tree

    by Nizan
    Replies
    21
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    1,902

    Re: Fig tree

    Sometimes the trees smell a bit pissy, so maybe some of the black-currant chemicals. Also, dried leafs I found near a cave once smelled a lot like coconut, so maybe even tiny amounts of gamma...
  23. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Thanks. Eventually reducing the Benzyl Acetate did the trick.. I don't mind the Bergamot since it gives it a nice sparkle and hides the weird initial blast I'm getting.
    I already have...
  24. Replies
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde

    Well, maybe it's stabilized in ethanol. I never got a reply here when I asked about that..
  25. Replies
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde

    By the way, I've seen some accords on TGSC which mention Butyl Cinnamaldehyde as an alternative to HCA. Anyone has any experience with it? The waxy aspect of HCA is quite bothering in something I'm...
  26. Replies
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde

    I know this sour note pretty well - leave a drop of HCA in a closed vial for two weeks, and it will go bad (it usually happens when I leave it with ethanol and it evaporates).
    I'm checking HCA at...
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    Re: Birch Tar Challenge

    Hmm.. Maybe also Styrax, Cassie and Methyl Ionone.. ?
  28. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Some updates -
    I never got Dimehtyl Hydroquinone to work in this accord, so eventually I ditched it. I'm almost happy with my base part of the accord.
    Now I'm having issues with the top notes -...
  29. Thread: Vetiver Java

    by Nizan
    Replies
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    1,166

    Re: Vetiver Java

    I have some from Hermitage. Aren't they considered high quality?
  30. Replies
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    Re: Birch Tar Challenge

    There have been a few posts here regarding leather accords - I've found that Birch worked with many of the mentioned materials in those threads.. Though I usually have to keep it at very low dilution.
  31. Re: (+)-methyl dihydroepijasmonate AKA methyl 2-[(1S,2S)-3-oxo-2-pentylcyclopentyl]acetate CAS: 3964

    Well, if you get a sample and really like its performance - does it matter what it is?
    And the more important question - if you like it, will it be available through PSH? :)
  32. Thread: Nootkatone

    by Nizan
    Replies
    6
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    1,223

    Re: Nootkatone

    David - do you know why the lower % grades are prohibited by IFRA?
  33. Thread: Nootkatone

    by Nizan
    Replies
    6
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    1,223

    Re: Nootkatone

    I saw on TGSC that only this grade can be used safely.. The question is whether this is still true? Are there real dangers at the lower %?
  34. Thread: Enquiry

    by Nizan
    Replies
    2
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    557

    Re: Enquiry

    Cocoa absolute (at least mine) tends to be very powerful - you might want to turn it down a bit.
  35. Replies
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    Re: How do you chose your amber molecules?

    Well, if I don't write the impressions in my own language after smelling, then I have no chance of remembering.
    In my case - the more picturesque, and with references to types of people, the better...
  36. Re: Reseda Tincture - indistinguishable from the genuine

    A bit off topic - I've been looking for information regarding Chrysanthemums and Senecios (not sure what's the proper name), since I love their smells.. Any tips on those besides IBQ, PEA and the...
  37. Re: Reseda Tincture - indistinguishable from the genuine

    Very intriguing.. What does chopped Orris root smell like? More like the absolute, resinoid, or what?
  38. Replies
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    Re: How do you chose your amber molecules?

    Bottom line - nothing beats putting it in a blend and A/B-ing.
    Pretty surprising how small differences can have a big impact on a blend.
  39. Re: Reseda Tincture - indistinguishable from the genuine

    Nettle means stinging nettle? Is it supposed to give the slightly cinnamic spiciness that phenyl propyl alcohol gives?
  40. Replies
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    Re: How do you chose your amber molecules?

    I guess my question was too wide - Amber could mean many things. I was referring to the more bright/sharp/dry ones I mentioned (as opposed to the more sweet/heavy/animalic aspect it could mean). Only...
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    Re: How do you chose your amber molecules?

    Thanks! That's the plan - I will also make a color/texture description for them to help me arrange things since descriptors don't work for me in this case.
  42. Replies
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    Re: How do you chose your amber molecules?

    The main problem is choosing.. I have Amberketal, Madranol, Bois Ambrene, Ambermax, Ysamber and some others, but these are the ones which confuse me the most.
    I wrote down the different impressions...
  43. Replies
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    Re: How do you chose your amber molecules?

    In the case I mentioned, I'm using the ambery molecules to add an edge to the accord, since everything I come up with is too smooth for me. Plus, for some reason I perceive in some of the molecules...
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    How do you chose your amber molecules?

    I'm still working on my Violet accord (and trying to figure out what's in an old accord I've made and lost the formula!), and I came to the question which amber molecule would go along nicely with...
  45. Thread: Grojsman Accord

    by Nizan
    Replies
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    16,390

    Re: Grojsman Accord

    So why not challenge your personal choice to appreciate with the sense of smell what you're missing out on, instead of with your head and eyes? People's impressions are their own. I, for one, and...
  46. Re: Taming Muguet and Lilac Accords to Make Them Less 'Soapy'

    Hmm.. Jasmones? A tiny tiny bit of one of the Eugenols? Pardoxically, at low dosages they sometimes increase the impression of greeness for me.. depends on which I pick.

    (However, I've never...
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    Re: SuperGirl perfume making game: CLOSED

    Ho, you're going to do this over PMs? What a shame :\
  48. Thread: Grojsman Accord

    by Nizan
    Replies
    98
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    16,390

    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Why not buy the ingredients and mix it yourself? It's around 8$ getting a few ml of each.
  49. Thread: A great tragedy

    by Nizan
    Replies
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    3,086

    Re: A great tragedy

    Horrible! This is so upsetting! Such bureaucratic nonsense that is spreading everywhere (in a futile attempt to hold off the upcoming cultural clash you hinted about).
    I'm sorry :(

    Maybe this...
  50. Thread: I want advice

    by Nizan
    Replies
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    917

    Re: I want advice

    Actually, while we're on the topic - I was looking for something than smells like Espresso.. I have one that smells like Turkish coffee, and another one, which is more like espresso, from Providence...
  51. Thread: Karanal source

    by Nizan
    Replies
    7
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    1,297

    Re: Karanal source

    Philip Kraft says it's soon to be banned, which didn't prevent it from being featured in the new Boss release, according to his FB page.
    Maybe we should all stock up on it before it is banned :) ...
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde

    So what is the bottom line on the issue of making it last longer? Will dissolving in ethanol keep it fresh? DPG?
    Mine smells funny.. I think it goes bad much faster than other aroma chemicals.
  53. Thread: Thyme AC?

    by Nizan
    Replies
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    1,027

    Re: Thyme AC?

    Why? It's not an expensive oil.
    You could also consider Thymol at high dilutions..
  54. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord using naturals

    Just ordered a few :)

    There's an old analysis which clamis the absolute has a lot of Zingibrene and Curcumene.. Even though it's quite surprising, I smelled a strip of Turmeric CO2 along with my...
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Well, knowing it's a tincture, I've put some on my skin. Very unexpected - initially is was very cresolic, and then it dried down to something which smells like tea with Jasmone and violet leaf...
  56. Re: Any formulas/recipes to make a fragrance similar to Armani Mania, Code, or AquaDiGio for men?

    OOooo! Such fun! Hopefully they're simple enough to layer :)
  57. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Oish, I missed the mention of 'green'.. Ho well.
  58. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord using naturals

    Not sure this is relevant, but here's a blog post I found from the Smelly Blog.. She mentions Lavender could be useful (which is how I found it - had this thought and Googled it)
    ...
  59. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Is anyone familiar with this company? They seem to be selling Violet Flower Abs..

    http://www.neroliane.eu/absolue-de-violette-pure.html
  60. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Makes sense!
    Are you sure I can get the flower abs. in small quantity? There's a chocolatier here that makes chocolate with violets, and she says she buys the essence in France.
    I couldn't find a...
  61. Chemistry of Essential Oils Videos by Robert Pappas

    Enjoy :)

    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW8zVD5h7caIGtY-EPIpm_cHKCcTrtuKz
  62. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    I have some Violet enfleurage from Hermitage. It's very faint, but from there I get mainly Ionones and the cresolic part, just like the description says:...
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Hmm.. I guess it's bye bye Poucher, then.. :)
    Thanks!
  64. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    I keep telling myself to work with pictures.. It makes what I want to achieve much clearer for me. So thanks for that!
    I used 3:2 of beta to alpha ionone, similar to you, and then started getting...
  65. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    You use Hexenyl Benzoate everywhere, huh? :)
    I went for Chinese Cedar instead of synthetic woody and leathery molecules.. But I think it's messing with my dry down (as do the Mimosa and Violet leaf...
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    Essential Oil University is no longer free

    https://essentialoils.org/plans

    :cry:
  67. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    I was actually looking at your blog - you've already mentioned that 30% ionones is plenty. However, all the formulas have them at around 50% or more, so I wasn't sure how to proceed.. The GC data I...
  68. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Regarding Lilac aspect - Gattefosse has a base calle Terpineol Violet, with lots of Terpineol.
  69. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    After about 20 minutes of blending with those I can't smell anything.. I'm taking them lower and lower in my mixes, and finding some other ways to emphasize their powderiness. Maybe I will pick up...
  70. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    I was being sarcastic :)
    I'm good with mine for now.. I even diluted it down a bit since it was so powerful. I'm using some Irone with it, since it's like radish-like.
    I've had a chat with Kacper...
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Why wouldn't I be able to afford to pay such a sum? :grin:
  72. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Hmm.. Benzyl acetate isn't absent from the previous formulas.. Though the Jasmine and Rose do make the whole mix come alive. I wish there was a longer lived version of BA.
    I'm a bit confused about...
  73. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Good to know! I thought something was off with one of my absolutes. I like the other Mimosa better - I will give that one a try.
    Is para Cresyl Phenyl Acetate also used in Violet accords? I...
  74. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    I assumed so..
    In the Poucher formula appears Cassie/Mimosa, but the two I have don't smell the same (the latter is much more powdery and less Violet-leaf like.. Am I missing something? I know...
  75. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    In the accord from the Yahoo group - is Cassia a mistake, and should be Cassie?
    I'm trying to understand what it's purpose.. I've never smelled the flowers, and the Cassie seems to be giving this...
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    Re: Violet accord using naturals

    Ok, since I'm lost on my Violet accord - I thought about getting the candy for some reference (and for my sweet tooth). But I see there are a few brands.. Which are the BEST? :p
  77. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Hmm.. Maybe Christine is reading this.. :)
  78. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Ho. Where do you get that in small amounts?
    I'm using the White Couer version - are they different?
  79. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    I used Eden's Orris - though it would have enough alpha Irone.. (Irisone is Irone, right?)
    So for your Violet accords you use only Irone, without any methyl Ionone or Ionone alpha?

    I thought...
  80. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    I have tried to use what I have.. My ratios are a bit off due to everything being pre-diluted, but maybe it's close enough :

    Ionone alpha 70
    Methyl Ionone 20
    Orris Abs 2
    Violet leaf 2...
  81. Thread: Powdery bases

    by Nizan
    Replies
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    5,116

    Re: Powdery bases

    Silvanone Supra features there for sure.
    Sandela is frustrating.. Sometimes, because it's so weak, I overdose it, and it brings everything down.
  82. Thread: Powdery bases

    by Nizan
    Replies
    27
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    5,116

    Re: Powdery bases

    And probably Cashmeran from my latest experiments, but I didn't A/B against Narciso yet.
  83. Thread: Powdery bases

    by Nizan
    Replies
    27
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    5,116

    Re: Powdery bases

    Javiero, now I understand how come you answered my post on the Yahoo group - you've been occupied with this issue for a while :)
    Have you tried what I suggested?
  84. Thread: Resins

    by Nizan
    Replies
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    1,100

    Re: Resins

    Peru balsam? Tolu balsam?
  85. Re: Cucumber Aldehyde Vs Violet Leaf absolute Vs Cassie Absolute

    Working around the main notes I'm smelling there.. I'm not super careful on getting everything right, but I'm combining similar notes. Helps me manage big accords, since I find it hard to mix more...
  86. Re: Cucumber Aldehyde Vs Violet Leaf absolute Vs Cassie Absolute

    I'm actuallu still working around Dune Pour Homme, trying to figure out the base notes. Same as I have been doing for over a year. I was stuck and came back to it after realizing some things.
  87. Re: Cucumber Aldehyde Vs Violet Leaf absolute Vs Cassie Absolute

    Ho, nice spot on the PA molecule. I never bothered to compare the CAS with what Hermitage are selling!
    Undecavertol doesn't last long enough. I will first try David's suggestion and crank up the...
  88. Re: Cucumber Aldehyde Vs Violet Leaf absolute Vs Cassie Absolute

    I'm not saying he's wrong, I'm saying he was being cynical.
    I just like the way Cucumber aldehyde combines with gamma nonalactone (and other things I have in my base notes - GNL was just a...
  89. Re: Cucumber Aldehyde Vs Violet Leaf absolute Vs Cassie Absolute

    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1600821.html
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1584171.html

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cynicism_(contemporary)

    Maybe I'm dosing the...
  90. Re: Cucumber Aldehyde Vs Violet Leaf absolute Vs Cassie Absolute

    Hmm.. I was looking for something that can stay longer - together with the gamma Nonalactone.
    Maybe I'll try to crank the Violet leaf up.. Or go Galbanum.
  91. Thread: Ambrox DL

    by Nizan
    Replies
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    8,216

    Re: Ambrox DL

    I've been curious about this one for a whlie.. Maybe I'll try to get a sample somehow..
  92. Re: Cucumber Aldehyde Vs Violet Leaf absolute Vs Cassie Absolute

    I'm trying to extend the fresh/green aspect of Violet leaf into the base note, any ideas?
    Cucumber aldehyde disappears too quickly at the dilutions I'm working at.
    Thanks!

    I've seen a couple of...
  93. Thread: Ambrox DL

    by Nizan
    Replies
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    8,216

    Re: Ambrox DL

    Indeed the problem was solved for me. When I was playing around and realized the buttery/cheesy chemicals are getting close (though not quite there - I was thinking of maybe something pineapple and...
  94. Thread: Ambrox DL

    by Nizan
    Replies
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    8,216

    Re: Ambrox DL

    Tsk tsk indeed. Maybe I should find a way to organize note on my computer.
    Ambrox DL has that nice creamy impression I mentioned in another post (and I called it marine there.. but it's actually a...
  95. Re: Ethyl Decine Carbonate - any ideas about this chemical?

    Last time I checked, shipping of a couple of 5 ml bottles to Israel was around 100$ - that is 5 times the shipping from the US.
  96. Thread: Ambrox DL

    by Nizan
    Replies
    30
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    8,216

    Re: Ambrox DL

    Ambrox DL and Cetalox smell different to me, have different strengths, and don't last the same.. Am I missing something? Is it a different isomer mix?
  97. Replies
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    Re: Increasing sea impression of Ambrox

    David - I agree about comparing Amberketal with the others - they're different. I was just trying to make a point.

    I think I have two routes right now -
    1. Play around with mixed of Cetalox,...
  98. Replies
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    Re: Increasing sea impression of Ambrox

    I went over my top post again, and couldn't find what to correct. I'm not a native speaker, though.
    I'm referring to some quality I get in Ambrox and Cetalox and not in the "drier" modern ones,...
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    Re: Increasing sea impression of Ambrox

    I mixed it with scentenal once - it was indeed very beachy. Maybe this could work for what I want :)
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    Re: Increasing sea impression of Ambrox

    Hmm.. I agree - I've seen all these materials mentioned before, and it's not what I mean. I think I have a problem describing what I'm after in words. You know how Ambrox and Cetalox are slightly...
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