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  1. Replies
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    Re: Heliotrope Absolute

    Here is a simple formula for a Heliotrope fragrance from Formulary of Perfumes and Cosmetics by R. M. Gattefosse’:

    Terpineol 450 gms
    Heliotropin 200
    Vanillin 100
    Musk ketone 50...
  2. Re: Notes vs. Ingredients - What matters is how it smells, not what it is made of

    It seems to me that so many of the best perfumes and aromas are beyond mere verbal descriptives, for the most part, and, as purplebird says, ‘mere language fails to convey’ what many scents evoke...
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    Re: Ambergris in the UK

    I know Heston Blumenthal uses a lump of ambergris to enhance a chocolate drink in the opening segment of the Christmas episode of season 1 of his show Hestons Feast. (He DID reference it wrongly as...
  4. Re: Fragrance references in fiction books or films

    29141

    They don't mention it, but they do show Mrs Crawley receiving some Guerlain perfume for Christmas in Season 2, episode 10 of Downton Abbey.
  5. Re: Great FRÉDÉRIC MALLE Interview, - Interesting slant on All Natural Scents too

    I think what Malle has done has been ground-breaking and he had all that it takes, including bravery, to buck the system enough to set the trend in the right direction. Giving great perfumers a...
  6. Re: How to work with Blue Lotus (N. Caerulea)?

    Give this a read:
    Factors influencing Olfactory Properties of Blue Lotus Absolute

    http://www.whitelotusblog.com/2012/03/factors-influencing-olfactory.html

    See also, if you're interested:...
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    Re: Making Myrrh More Palatable

    You could try Petitgrain or Juniper.
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    Re: Budget flower EOs

    Ylang Ylang in various grades is relatively inexpensive. It's been called 'the poor man's jasmine'.
    I believe Geranium is not distilled from the flowers, but from the leaves, if that matters.
  9. It is so alarming that in a world that houses...

    It is so alarming that in a world that houses billions of people, that only a handful of them are willing to dedicate some of themselves to preserving the jewels of scent: one of the most important...
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    Re: Liatris Odoratissima

    Deerstongue was featured in Julia Lawless' book of Essential Oils, but I have never come across this oil available anywhere. Is this plant/oil something only seen in GB?
  11. Thread: Honey Notes

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: Honey Notes

    I've made a nice honey accord with a blend of Benzoin, Vanillin and Ethyl vanillin, Ethyl maltol, Aurantiol, Davana EO and a daub of Butterscotch flavour.
    You'll have to play with your own...
  12. Re: How hard is it to get into fragrance creation?

    Just be aware that just getting to know your materials can be a large financial investment. It's great fun though, and certainly develops those synapses in ways that are beyond verbal descriptives. ...
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    Re: newbiw with hundreds of perfumes

    It's not how many you love, it's that you love...period!
    Welcome to Basenotes. You've got loads of great reading material before you!
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    Re: Natural vs synthetic

    The thing is, if a line is drawn with ‘naturals’, then really Natural Perfumers should not blend any ‘natural’ essential oil or product with something else, as doing so will change it’s chemical...
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    Re: What is the closest to Cashmeran?

    It could also be described as having an ozone-like quality.
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    Re: Natural vs synthetic

    One of the problems stems from the perfume industry itself, in that they have solicited naturals as being the epitome of their own mostly synthetic perfumes by describing them as such. The ‘notes’...
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    Re: What is the closest to Cashmeran?

    Yeah....I'd say if you poured pine over popcorn, you'd be very close. It really hits the top of your nose in the way that pine and tart fruits can do, but it's not tart in any way, but woody and...
  18. Thread: Benzoin

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: Benzoin

    From what I understand, no one is really certain what the bibical reference for 'onchya' actually is. It is only speculated by some to be Benzoin; others believe it was referring to a snail...
  19. Re: Mitti attar reconstruction minus the sandalwood

    The mitti I have from 10 years ago or so smells mostly like sandalwood also, with just a touch of humus/earth.

    I also have a small amount of something I blended about that long ago also, which...
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    Re: Modern Fougere

    This article from Perfume Shrine may be helpful : Definition: Terpenic, Phenolic & Camphoraceous in Fragrances

    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2012/02/definition-terpenic-phenolic.html
  21. Re: You wish to channel Oliver Reed’s unparalleled masculinity, what fragrance do you wear?

    I'd say Kouros - smoldering, sexy brute.
  22. Thread: Ambergris

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: Ambergris

    This was in Perfumer & Flavorist mag the other day: 183 lbs of ambergris for lucky Ecomare of the Netherlands....
    ...
  23. Re: What do you think the trend of men's fragrance will smell like in the year 2050?

    I agree that scents will play into our lives in completely new ways and delivered through our glasses electronically or something along those line. Some new technology will come along that makes...
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    Re: What Perfumer/nose speaks to you best?

    I would have to say that Sophia Grojsman really knows what speaks to my heart. Almost every perfume she creates is rich, complex, lush and enticing and a complete treasure! It almost seems...
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    Re: funniest compliments you got

    It doesn’t matter what perfume I wear, when I ask my husband what he thinks of my perfume, he ALWAYS says …’smells like soap’. Jeez…you’d think he’d have a much broader repertoire of associations...
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    Re: What is it with male perfumers…

    If this were true, why are all perfume ads focused on models dressed in luxurious couture, elaborate makeup and set in fantastical settings?
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    Re: Handy Perfumer's Search page

    This is excellent and so easy to use! Thanks so much!
  28. Re: serious question: convincing your loved ones you are not crazy

    It's like collecting pieces of art. THAT would never be considered a sickness.

    You could say that anything that expands your sensual knowledge and pleasure is absolutely SACRED! It's what makes...
  29. Thread: Frankincense

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: Frankincense

    Boswellia carterii is richer and has the most depth. I always describe it as having a resinous cola fiz scent. Boswellia serrata is less strong and distinct, with a lighter whispier scent, and not...
  30. Re: Real Ambergris - how powerful is the smell meant to be?

    Perhaps, because Agarscents are know for their Ouds, they have blended a bit of oud into the ambergris, to give it depth and nuance. Can't imagine a better combination for simbiatic fixation.
  31. Re: Artist Transforms Body Odor Into Olfactory Self-Portrait

    This has been done for centuries really. You may have heard of 'love apples'... that women, to entice a potenial lover, would tuck a cut apple into their armpit for several days to absorb their...
  32. Re: Diary of a perfumer in training: would anyone be interested?

    This sounds delightful to me. I would love to follow your thoughts on this!
  33. Thread: Mittl Attar

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: Mittl Attar

    Here is a beautiful, in-depth description of it from Christopher McMahons White Lotus site.

    http://www.whitelotusaromatics.com/newsletters/mitt
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    British Boy find huge chunk of Ambergris

    For those of you who didn't see this in yesterday's news... an 8 year old boy found a large piece of Ambergris while walking on the beach of Hengistbury Head. What a lucky chap!

    (Mumsy, is this...
  35. Re: What smells from childhood influenced your liking of their notes in fragrances today?

    I don't think that copaiba balsam is used in perfumery much, but the smell of it sweeps me back to my childhood and comforting memories of my mother china painting in the evenings (copaiba balsam is...
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    Re: Health concerns regarding fragrance.

    I suppose that I have mixed feeling about this.

    Secrecy has been entrenched in the perfume industry for so long, that it is hard to think outside of that tradition. But to be honest, those ways...
  37. Re: What smells from childhood influenced your liking of their notes in fragrances today?

    Perhaps your mother still has the perfume tucked away unused somewhere, or she may still remember what it was.
  38. Replies
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    Re: Health concerns regarding fragrance.

    Of course you can not list every molecule in an essential oil, because many of the trace elements are not even known and would certainly vary from batch to batch. (Grocers do not have to break down...
  39. Re: The unbelievable strangeness of essential oils

    You are under the mistaken notion that essential oils are what you are smelling in most commercial perfumes. You are not.

    As most perfumer lovers eventually discover, most commercial perfumes...
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    Re: Looking for an old brand

    Could this be the brand you are thinking of? I've had this in my collection for eons! The company is Sunshine Products. It's the only one I remember with a wood top. They are perfume oils, not...
  41. Re: Article: Mandy Aftel launches line of essential oils for adding to food or drink

    It seems appropriate that Mandy Aftel would come out with an edible line of essential oils, considering her wonderful book on using EOs in cooking a few years back. I have to assume, although I...
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    Re: 'Biblical' Fragrance (imagination)

    It’s interesting to note that many perfume materials started out, or were simultaneously used medicinally. The antiseptic power of resins has been long known, so pine (turpentine), frankincense,...
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    Re: 'Biblical' Fragrance (imagination)

    In addition to all the ones mentioned above, Cinnamon, Cassia and Calamus are also often mentioned in ancient text on perfumery, not to mention many things that we don't really think of as perfume...
  44. Re: Actually heard someone say "old lady scent"! About a Tauer!

    I don’t see the term ‘old lady scent’ as innocuous at all. Because perfume is most certainly connected to couture and the fashion industry which almost exclusively promotes itself through imagery of...
  45. Oh no... another big loss for the perfume world! ...

    Oh no... another big loss for the perfume world! We salute you Monsieur Robert.
  46. Mr. Bailey sounds like a great person to head the...

    Mr. Bailey sounds like a great person to head the Society, with such insight and such a diverse and interesting background. Congrats to him! He may be the perfect person to rally appreciation for...
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    Re: Laughable Clive Christian Pomp and Nonsense

    Ms. Christian must have been a ballet dancer or something, or perhaps studied mime; she appears to be trying to talk to the deaf, with her uber-gesturing. It's all just so over the top.
  48. Re: A new way to enjoy your favorite scents, with a humidifier

    I also add a few drops of a favorite (but not too expensive) perfume or essential oil to my vacuum filter...it's amazing how vacuuming can spread the scent around the house.
  49. I whole-heartedly agree with you Thomas; this...

    I whole-heartedly agree with you Thomas; this book was fascinating to anyone interested in this mysterious substance, either due to perfumery, gastronomy, history or biology. I loved every minute of...
  50. Re: Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris -- NOW AVAILABLE

    I just bought this book and am anxiously ready to dive into it! This looks to be a very fun read! Thanks Christopher!
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    Re: Alec Lawless RIP

    Oh, this is such TRAGIC news! He was far too young to go. What a unique person he was!
    Sad, SAD news, indeed!

    :cry::cry:
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    Re: Laughable Clive Christian Pomp and Nonsense

    Somebody gag me with a silver spoon!
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    Re: Make my own cologne

    Fenugreek is probably a mistake to use. (I see that you've eliminated it.) While it is excellent as a food spice, it is not wise to use it in perfumery. A tincture of it will seize up your blend; it...
  54. Thread: Myrrh

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: Myrrh

    To me myrrh has always smelled like sharp, dry, resinous anise.
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    Re: Fragrances made in China

    If something is created and originates from China, fine. No problem. But when a product long produced somewhere else is suddenly being made in China, it is strictly for cheap labor, degraded product...
  56. Re: Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris

    I found this very interesting article on Mr. Kemp's book on ambergris:http://www.mlive.com/living/grand-rapids/index.ssf/2012/02/grand_rapids_biologist_sees_hu.html.
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    Re: What cologne would the devil wear?

    He wouldn't wear one....he would prefer the natural animal scents of the human body!!!!!!!!!
  58. Re: Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris

    The history of the acquisition and use of this material is absolutely fascinating and I think a book on this subject is long overdue. I'm sure every fragrance enthusiast is going to pounce on this...
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    Re: Has Anyone Seen A Chanel Bottle Like This?

    I always thought that a 'lotion' perfume had a jelling agent to make it more viscous to slide on the skin, as in after a bath and such.
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    Re: Snowdrift Farms lousy service

    Bill Maher calls them SKANK of America!!
  61. Thread: Ambergris

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: Ambergris

    Heavens to Murgatroyd! One lump or two; I'll take two!!
    Wonderful...thanks for sharing that!
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    Re: Matching fragrance to food

    Dior Poison with Red wine.
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    Re: Is perfume making us fat?

    Phthalates are much more likely to be accumulated in ever-increasing amounts in our entire environment, starting with the myriad of modern products used and packaged in plastics. There is so much of...
  64. Replies
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    Re: A soft 'powdery' effect... HOW?

    I should have been more clear; the commonly found Amber fragrance blend of Benzoin, Labdanum & Vanilla (+or- various accentuators) that is easily available.
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    Re: A soft 'powdery' effect... HOW?

    dup, sorry
  66. Replies
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    Re: A soft 'powdery' effect... HOW?

    Adding Benzoin, Guaiacwood and some alpha ionone (or violet) as modifiers may help also.
  67. Replies
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    Re: A soft 'powdery' effect... HOW?

    Try playing around with this simple blend:
    3 parts Amber
    2 parts Geranium
    1 part Bergamot
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    Re: Comparison and Usage of Vanilla Notes

    There is also Propenyl Guaethol (or Vanitrope) which is milky vanilla, woody sweet, and rounds out a Vanillin or Ethyl Vanillin blend.
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    Re: 13 fragrance houses & distributers fined...

    It IS collusion! One more reason to suspect Big Business of manipulating consumer trends and IFRA regulations to their own ends. Pffft! Disgusting!
  70. Replies
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    Re: Nature or nurture?

    I think it is both nature and nurture; just as in appreciating food. If your parents teach you to be open to new foods and new scents, without quick judgments, uniformed decisions, and the outlook...
  71. Re: Some notes on the oils I have - feel free to add your own

    You might want to transfer these comments to the Note Pad: Single Note Exploration forum threads (listed in the main forum) where many others have described their thoughts on each fragrance note or...
  72. Thread: Blue Lotus

    by Nymphaea
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    Blue Lotus

    Blue Lotus (Water Lily) (Nymphaea caerulea) hexane extracted Absolute – India:
    Piquant, spicy, powdery, rich fizzy floral reminiscent of strong cola and talc, sassafras and fresh ginger.

    Blue...
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    Re: Fragrance for High school dance/party?

    Tommy Girl is spirited and sporty.
  74. Replies
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    Re: Favorite Guerlain Fragrance?

    It's a toss-up between Shalimar and Mitsouko!
  75. Re: Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent by Jean-Claude Ellena

    Perhaps it's lost something in the translation from French.
  76. Replies
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    Re: Best books about perfume

    These are all very good books on perfume history:
    Fragrance, the Story of Perfume from Cleopatra to Chanel by Edwin T. Morris
    The Mystery and Lure of Perfume by C. J. S. Thompson
    Perfume Through...
  77. Oh, this is such tragic news!

    Oh, this is such tragic news!
  78. Replies
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    Re: Sealing Apothecary style bottles

    You could try wrapping Teflon tape around the stopper or even silicone plumbing tape; its not very attractive, but it might work for you.
  79. These IFRA bans are nothing more than...

    These IFRA bans are nothing more than smoke-screens for their real agendas...corporate control of proprietary chemicals and roadblocks for small businesses.
  80. Thread: Fuzzy notes

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: Fuzzy notes

    When I think of fuzzy, I think of bubbly or effervescence. If that is the effect that you mean, you could try well diluted Aldehyde C-12 MNA (2-Methyl Undecanal), or 2,6-dimethyl-4-heptanone. In...
  81. Wow! This will probably be richer and more...

    Wow! This will probably be richer and more enchanting than her other luxurious perfumes, and THAT is saying something!
  82. Replies
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    Re: Fragrance Trends for 2012 and beyond

    OCTAVIAN COIFAN IS MAN, and a well-respected reviewer of the world-wide perfume scene, inside and out. Anyone really into perfume keeps his blog in the forefront of their daily readings! JEESH!
    ...
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    Re: Should I open my vintage Bandit?

    OMG...you are a lover of leathers and you aren't going to keep it for yourself? Wow...you have incredible self-control. I would have opened that two years ago and been relishing daubs of it...
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    Re: Horrible smelling experience

    That is the most shameful behavior for a retailer that I have ever heard! It's utterly unconscionable for him to say something so mean-spirited, tasteless and rude as that to an innocent potential...
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    Re: Creed Millesime Imperial: Sherry and Prune?

    Probably because of your cold, you are unable to perceive the highest of the opening top notes, and therefore you are only smelling the lowest register components of those tart, fruity beginnings. ...
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    Re: Glass-stoppered bottles or no? Bottle size?

    I'd have to say for me that I generally prefer spraying as a general every-day use, rushing-off-somewhere convenience. But for my real favorite perfumes and the ones I relish on my personal time,...
  87. Thread: oudh recipes

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: oudh recipes

    I can honestly say that I did not realize that agarwood trees (Aquilaria) produced nuts that could be pressed for a fixed oil/ oleoresin. So this cooking oil has a scent related somewhat to the...
  88. Thread: oudh recipes

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: oudh recipes

    8 OZ OF PURE AGARWOOD??????!!! Your co-worker must be wealthy beyond words! When 3 mls goes for $200-400 for good-quality oud, 8 oz would be well over $10,000. I'm sure you may think it smells...
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    Re: The evil LVMH - from 1000 Fragrances

    It's simply outrageous what LVMH is doing! It certainly believes in it's history when it suits them, doesn't' it! This is obviously a ploy to block the younger market from experiencing what they...
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    Re: nivea handcreme note

    This has been discussed on this board before, so you could do a search, but one helpful post can be found here, at Octavian Coifan's site, 1000 Fragrances, as mentioned in other threads on Basenotes,...
  91. Re: Tuberose, Jasmine and Orange Blossom. Your thoughts please r/o

    Aside from being floral in nature, the absolutes (essential oils) are DISTINCTLY DIFFERENT!! Jasmine (grandiflorum) is deep, sweet, complex, rich and, at full-strength, will smell fecal. Its about...
  92. Replies
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    Re: Nagarmotha / Cyperus

    Nagarmotha (Cyperus rotundus) Wild Harvested: India from White Lotus: Rich, deep woodsy, green peat-mossy scent with a light camphoraceous top note, similar to, but less dense, complex or tenacious...
  93. In Western (Christian?) culture, where...

    In Western (Christian?) culture, where 'cleanliness is next to Godliness', it's not surprising that we are fixated with the concept that cleanliness is synonymous with 'goodness'. If something is...
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    Re: My Fragrances vs Professionals

    It's not that you need the same amount for each oil/chemical, it's about your formula or where you want to go with the scent. You may only need to get 1 or two in larger quantities, depending on...
  95. Re: received some amazing rare absolutes from hermitage oils!!!!

    Wow, I have never smelled any Hay absolute that smells like tobacco. It should smell rich and sweet and jam-like. He must have sent you the wrong thing!
  96. Replies
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    Re: My Fragrances vs Professionals

    It appears to me that the quantities of materials you have to work are a real detriment to good experimentation. If you only have 10 or 20 ml of each ingredient, you will not have enough to develop...
  97. Re: Rumors of My Death Have Been Somewhat Exagerated.

    Make sure you use 'Aroma Therapy' for a full recovery! It will help you gain your strength back!
    Good health to you!
  98. Replies
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    Re: Poison Earrings!

    I have seen a number of promotional jewelry items for perfumes from the 80s and 90s. My guess is that they are legit, and very cool, to boot! How did you come by them?
  99. Re: What is the significance of fragrance for you?

    You could easily break the individual’s love of fragrance into the three Freudian apparatuses of ID, EGO, SUPER-EGO.

    For most people, scent appreciation is guided solely by the ID, by their...
  100. Re: What is the significance of fragrance for you?

    For me it's about INDULGENCE. While formulated perfumes add a fantasy aspect to the sensual journey, it is by no means the sole vehicle for experiencing pleasure, mystery and intrigue. Fragrances...
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