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  1. Replies
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    Re: Dark-ish/Gourmand-ish Fig Fragrances

    The (I believe) discontinued Mugler Womanity was a strange, sweet and salty fig that had no green fig leaf. Probably too unique for mainstream, so it seems to have disappeared.
  2. Re: Which (designer) brands are current trend setters among mainstream brands?

    I agree that Mugler often tries new stuff. Sometimes, the experiment becomes the new norm (eg Angel).
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    Re: Mainstream houses

    I agree that those two tend to put a bit more attention than others-and agree that Hermes should be added too. The bar is admittedly very low.
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    Re: Why jammy rose is so....jammy?

    Not a chemist, but I assume so. Rose perfume varies a lot across different types of roses. Damask roses, for instance, seem to have much more of this jammy note.
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    Re: Have you ever tried Opium pour Femme?

    Current is paler than the enormous original, which had a huge clove kick over the heavy oriental tapestry. The current is still ok and very wearable, a nice warm spicy oriental, but those who...
  6. Thread: About EDP vs EDT

    by cacio
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    Re: About EDP vs EDT

    Usually, the edt and edp of a given perfume are not the same formula. And it is not always the case that the edt projects more.

    In addition to what hednic was saying, the formula for the edt is...
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    Re: deconstructed /avant-garde FOUGERE?

    For very avantgarde, I'd say Louis by The Zoo: strange aromatics, drydown tilted towards iris and a strange powdery stuff.

    For less drastic reinterpretations, "nugeres" like Invasion Barbare or...
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    Re: Pros & Cons of spraying fragrance on shirts

    As others have said, fabric keeps perfume well, so longevity is superior to skin. It usually projects less, though. And as you point out, check for staining first. Most perfumes are ok, but a few...
  9. Re: Perfume oils, body oils, body and bath oils - how, when, where?

    Re: what to try, I think Youth Dew bath oil is still sold at Estee Lauder counter, still strong, though not as strong as before, and very inexpensive. If you don't like it as a perfume, you can still...
  10. Re: which jasmine do you personally prefer, Diorella or Samsara?

    I wouldn't consider Diorella primarily a jasmine. There's some of it, but I perceive it mostly as a citrus chypre with a sharp citrus note and a dirty "rotten-fruit" one. Not superfresh, but not warm...
  11. Re: Perfume oils, body oils, body and bath oils - how, when, where?

    As diddy was saying, there is no rule, the nature of the products vary a lot.

    In the past, bath oils tended to be extremely concentrated and strong, they were designed to withstand a full tub of...
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    Re: Gucci Memoire d'une Odeur

    I tried this today in nyc. It’s very hot, so this disappeared I no time. Very nice beginning,greenish with a touch of floral and hay. Pretty much like the he pale green color of the bottle,

    But I...
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    Re: NEW: La Collection Celine Haute Parfumerie

    Lmvh must think that the prices are profitable. Dior, Bulgari, givenchy and lv have one. I forget, does fendi have one too?
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    Re: Your Favorite Animalic Classy Fragrances?

    Certain old perfumes did the trick really well. I'm thinking about feminine musky florals like Joy, My sin, Arpege, and the like. And some masculine too, like Eau d'Hermes (which was more animalic)...
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    Re: Rien incense battle

    painted

    re: the current formulation of Rien, I have not smelled. However, Rien didn't contain forbidden ingredients, and so far I have not heard reports of reformulations of any of their perfumes....
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    Re: Rien incense battle

    I assume Kaern is referring to nihilist philosophy.

    Not sure why a perfume that's distinctly big and hefty calls itself nothing-perhaps a reference that it's supposed to replicate the smell of...
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    Re: Tom Ford - Tuscan Leather - Alternatives?

    So many good leathers around-and many cheaper than the TF. Already good suggestions for close smell-alikes.

    More broadly in leather territory, among the classics, Knize Ten, a bit more complex and...
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    Re: Rien incense battle

    I find them very similar, and both very dark-and very good. The incense intense has more incense, so perhaps you can go with that, but they are really close.

    I wouldn't call them churchy, they're...
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    Re: Blackrock buys Authentic Brands Group

    Indeed, quite uninspiring.
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    Re: Fragrance SMOTHERED by over spraying?

    I agree with Darjeeling-this sounds more like a case of nose fatigue. Too much of some material and the nose blocks it off.

    cacio
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    Re: Givenchy III Discussion

    I don't detect galbanum or green-ness in Chypre. Chypre is really chypre 1.0, just the basic accord, unadulterated
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    Blackrock buys Authentic Brands Group

    In the news, I read that giant private equity firm Blackrock bought a stake and became the largest investor in Authentic Brands Group, which owns brands including Sports Illustrated, Juicy Couture...
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    Re: Gucci Memoire d'une Odeur

    Narcissus and hay have my full interest!
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    Re: Givenchy III Discussion

    I like green chypres so I like Givenchy III a lot. As noted, what I smelled a few years ago is leaner and cleaner than the old one, but still acceptable. My impression is that green chypres survived...
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    Re: Diffuser? - Bathroom, and car

    Welcome!

    Are you looking for a device or the perfume?

    You actually don't need any device to perfume a room or a car. you can just spray a piece of paper, fabric, porous stone, or what not, and...
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    Re: Niche starter bottle

    So much to choose from! Perhaps you can start from the entry-level (in terms of price) niche-which are around $95/50ml, so things like Dyptique, Montale, or my favorite Etat Libre d'Orange houses.
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    Re: Lucky scent / scent bar is coming to nyc !

    Why do they all go to NYC and not to DC?
  28. Re: Recc Me A Fall/Date Scent Based On Weird Preferences

    Bulgari Eau parfumee au the noir would have been great, woody, dark, just slightly sweet, and not too strong. But I think it has been discontinued. The bottega veneta or the costume national things...
  29. Poll: Re: Do I need Rhubarb My Love (The Zoo) if I already own Rhubarb (CDG)?

    Thanks for the comparison. I like rhubarb my love and planning to buy,so good to know I don't have to look for the CDG instead.
  30. Re: Do you enjoy fragrances with bitter or gothic notes

    Nothing wrong with bitter. I haven't tried the two you mention, so probably I should now.

    cacio
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    Re: Help please! Home scented candle is broken

    Welcome!

    You mean the wax is broken? Not a problem, just use as normal. If you ever get there, the wax will be melting anyway.
    (unrelated, but more importantly, make sure you follow the...
  32. Poll: Re: Le Labo Bergamote 22 or Tom Fords Grey Vetiver EDT?

    Indifferent, but I voted TF because of price.
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    Re: Chanel feminines enjoyed by us guys

    Cristalle is still a reference green chypre and still works perfectly.
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    Re: Chanel feminines enjoyed by us guys

    Indeed, the stereotype for Chanel is simple, cold elegance. Guerlain is more haze and warmth.
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    Re: Chanel feminines enjoyed by us guys

    I agree that the green ones are particularly good for men, ie Cristalle and No 19, in various iterations.
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    Re: Recreating a perfume from ancient Egypt

    Thanks! It says it's here in DC so perhaps I should try to stop by.
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    Re: Tom Ford Straw Poll

    I feel a bit ambivalent too. It feels that they are trying to do something interesting, but I find most exclusives unfinished, like a good idea that should have been developed with more care. I own a...
  38. Re: Strongest projecting niche fragrances in 2019 ? (excluding Amouage / Montale )

    Etat libre d'orange does very well on me, especially things like Rien or Tom of Finland.

    cacio
  39. Re: Thoughts on Caron & Guerlain + What do I try next?

    Are you looking just within these brands or were you thinking more broadly?

    In Guerlain, I also recommend Jicky or Mouchoir de Monsieur (very similar), vanillic fougeres. Also, there used to...
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    Re: Scent bar hit list

    Re: Lampblack, interesting, I did not get citrus. But it is not heavy, dark and smoky. Dry but somehow transparent. At the opposite end of the smokey leathery genre relative to things like, say, the...
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    Re: Scent bar hit list

    My favorite in your list is Lampblack. Very dry, smoky-leathery.
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    Re: First Female Frag! - Chanel N19 vtg.

    Cabochard is a great one. It eventually led to Aramis (same perfumer, same structure).

    But why not dive right in and try Joy and Arpege? Mentioning these because, so far and with some patience,...
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    Re: First Female Frag! - Chanel N19 vtg.

    Congrats on your purchase! No 19 is a great one, nicely green and somewhat chypre'.

    Now that you have open the vintage female door, there's no coming back! You'll soon be exploring many more.
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    Re: Barneys is closing

    If one Barney's survives, I will assume it's the fllagship on Madison ave. DC never had one.
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    Re: Calibrating musks

    Depending on taste, Etat libre d'orange Rien has a dirty musk in the base together with the leather. I love it, and it's not like MKK, but still, it's dirty, so I'm not sure it will be too much for...
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    Re: Autumn Selections 2019

    Still pretty hot here, so not thinking seriously yet.

    but I will be curious to try the new Baikal leather by de Nicolai, and in general to bring back leathers I have not worn in this weather.
    ...
  47. Thread: Women's Yatagan?

    by cacio
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    Re: Women's Yatagan?

    I too was thinking that you're picking some green and galbanum, as in old green chypres, although none of the green ones mentioned is really dark. AE and Magie noire are of course very dark but I...
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    Re: Barneys is closing

    Often, when a dept store with the exclusive closes, brands move elsewhere. But if there aren't many dept stores in a city, some brands may get lost.
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    Re: Latest Caron for Men - Nuit Fraiche!

    Thanks for the heads up. The list of notes is scary, but who knows.

    Interesting that they are citing explicitly Cattleya finance. This appears to be a Rotschild venture-I had missed the fact that...
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    Re: high-end shampoo & conditioner

    Without commenting on the relative merits, Kotori noted that Pureology is owned by L'Oreal, so it would seem strange that they also do store brands rather than selling through their own entry-level...
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    Re: Finding vintages plus suggestions

    Some good suggestions. In general, it seems you like darker and sweeter perfumes. The style is actually more modern (Egoiste being perhaps the first one in the style), most vintage stuff tends to be...
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    Re: Am I expecting too much from a cologne?

    As you note, most mainstream western perfumes tend to be quieter. (This wasn't always so. In the 70s and 80s, masculine perfumes were long lasting and full volume)

    You'll probably have more luck...
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    Re: Tom ford Sahara noir

    As livejazz was saying, it is a straightforward frankincense. As a straightforward frankincense, I would indeed put it at the top, together with Armani bois d'encens, and a touch above the CDG series...
  54. Re: New Parfums de Nicolai in September, Baikal Leather

    Thanks! This sounds very interesting. Smoked pine perhaps stands in place of now forbidden birch tar. We'll see. though the previous leather of the brand, Cuir cuba, wasn't much cuir at all.

    cacio
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    Re: Gucci Memoire d'une Odeur

    Nastka
    thanks for the info. Green is good, though it seems rather pale.

    Hednic
    thanks for the link. Have you tried it?

    cacio
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    Gucci Memoire d'une Odeur

    I haven't seen any thread on this. Has anybody tried it? The blurb sounds interesting. But who knows. A new fragrance family, mineral aromatic? The prive line of Gucci didn't seem so interesting...
  57. Re: Evidence found of evolution influencing number of neurons that sense certain odors

    Interesting. and make sense that selection would increase the capacity to analyze relevant sources of food.
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    Re: Help me build my wardrobe

    DH/DHI and CDG2 man are great choices for all around (DHI is more on the warm side for the winter, and 2 man feels a bit avantgarde, but not too much).
    You can also look into a citrus, they work...
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    Re: high-end shampoo & conditioner

    Cosmetics, skincare, and hair care have been exploding recently, and it seems brands put more attention into those line than in perfumery.
    Not an expert here, but my impression is that there's no...
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    Re: Most Pleasant Rare Fragrances?

    Have you tried Chanel Egoiste (the regular Egoiste, not platinum egoiste). Not niche, but restricted to more expensive dept stores. Warm and sandalwoody.

    For something a bit more stark, but sweet...
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    Re: Niche Fragrances - Best bang for the money

    Not liking something that's very expensive is not a bad thing (for the budget). Never bought a Clive christian either.

    As for something priced decently in niche, my favorite is the house of Etat...
  62. Re: Talk me off the ledge or push me off, your choice

    I agree with others-it seems you don't really love these perfumes. Citruses don't last long, it's their nature; either you spray again during the day, or focus on something else. Vetivers can last,...
  63. Re: posting the long detailed reply I received from Villoresi about 'Uomo.'

    Surprisingly careful and extensive answer from a brand I would not have expected.

    I think they're using the word profumo in the French sense of parfum/extrait. I've never tried uomo profumo, so I...
  64. Re: Need your thoughts on a potential purchase (Egoiste)

    To me the various vintages are close. Vintage is better as it has better sandalwood. But they are not day and night.
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    Re: Goodwill/Thrift store finds!

    Lovely finds. I remember a hotel with le labo rose so it’s possible that that’s the source
    The rug may be old enough to contain now restricted eugenol materials
  66. Re: Anyone care to share their CTM morning routine with me?

    Wow. Many steps!
    My sister brought me th hada labo recently and I like it. And I enjoy the Sisley rose mask too. Expensive though.
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    Re: What are great Immortelle-note fragrances?

    Great suggestions already.

    I'll add Jeux de peau for an hypergourmand version.
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    Re: Does chest hair increase longevity?

    Hair (that on the head or in furs) keeps perfume very well. Not sure the same is true for the sparser chest hair-being rather smooth myself, I cannot compare.

    cacio
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    Re: Help me narrow down my sample list

    I would keep in the two lubins (one fresh and the other warmer). Concur on dropping the Tom Ford-good as is, it is easy to find at Nordstrom and the like (I must say I also prefer Tabac Rouge in the...
  70. Re: A question for those like me who can't afford to buy niche perfumes.

    I love Cologne sologne and bought a 1 liter (as in 1,000 ml) bottle for about 130 Euros. But beware-this is a traditional eau de cologne recipe, so it doesn't last long. Kudos anyway to Parfums de...
  71. Re: Saks online only sale, includes beauty & fragrances

    I like XII too, though I find it a bit too dark and gloomy. XI is quite different, it recalls Jicky distantly. I looked into it because of Luca Turin's high praise.
  72. Re: If you had the choice would you get Eau Sauvage vintage, or new?

    The difference is as Brooks described. I am surprised that vintage of this is just a little more expensive, typically eau sauvage vintage is rare and quite expensive.

    I am always hesitant to...
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    Re: Looking for lilac

    I am usually offended when sellers charge high prices...
    Anyway, others will turn up. Sometimes sellers just don't look at counteroffers. There is for instance one very large seller that only sells...
  74. Re: Saks online only sale, includes beauty & fragrances

    Thanks for the heads up. got Cartier Heure perdue
  75. Re: Artificial Intelligence Can Now Create Perfumes, Even Without A Sense Of Smell

    Most mainstream perfumes smell like they are a permutation of the same successful ingredients, so I expect this one to be no better but no worse than the average sporty masculine. I suspect that the...
  76. Thread: Masterpiece

    by cacio
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    Re: Masterpiece

    I don't think there is a fully objective way of judging a perfume a masterpiece or not. More often than not, I think we are in a grey area of things that are really good and could or could not be...
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    Re: can someone please explain Habit Rouge to me?

    If I remember correctly, Guerlain Vetiver was in fact developed with the Mexican market in mind. And vetivers do very well in hot weather. Unlike vanilla and sweet resins.

    cacio
  78. Replies
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    Re: Neroli Fragrances

    Parfums de Nicolai cologne sologne is a good, refreshing neroli, but it is a traditional eau de cologne, so it doesn't last much, one has to reapply.
  79. Re: I really like forests. Does Knize Forest actually smell like a forest ?

    As incense and heliotrope said, it's nice, smells only distantly of forests, but I think there are many better coniferous ones. So I would not buy blindly.
  80. Replies
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    Re: can someone please explain Habit Rouge to me?

    Habit Rouge is ultimately related to Guerlain Shalimar. Shalimar and perfumes in the same genre were used extensively in the past and to some extent have come to define past eras. so perhaps you are...
  81. Re: probably the wrong place to ask but help please!

    As donna was saying, there is a big fake market for skincare and makeup. In addition, unlike perfume which is alcohol and so keeps well, most skincare is based on perishable materials, so even if...
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    Re: Anyone use Aftershave AND Cologne?

    I'm usually wary of dermatologists crusade against perfume. Yet I see their point of not applying alcohol plus potential irritants (the perfumes) to a freshly shaved (and hence more sensitive) face....
  83. Re: Genetics, Concentration, Dilution, Hyperosmia, Parosmia, etc.

    Welcome!

    I am not an expert on this, but I do remember threads and citation of articles that document differences in smelling certain materials. Typically, what I remember is that everybody has...
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    Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Upcoming themes (dates not announced yet):

    -Jasmine, gift of the gods
    -American perfumery: from the big mythical perfumes to confidential niche
    -The crazy 80s - part 2
    -Wines and perfumes: two...
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    Re: Timbuktu or Dzjongkha ?

    Another vote for Timbuktu. They are both incenses, broadly intended, but I find Timbuktu more stark, clearer and more radiant. It is representative of the dry, austere, semitransparent style of...
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    Re: Archaological Attars

    Not an expert here, but I think that the most talked about examples are the so called kyphi of ancient Egypt, of which various recipes exist from various greek writers and egyptian texts. Obviously...
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    Re: quick question about Samsara by Guerlain

    Samsara was Guerlain's response to the big perfumes of the 80s. So big and loud. But more refined than most others. Since then, female perfumes have moved towards syrup, so compared to many others it...
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    Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    I agree with you that reconstruction is not the only way to experience old masterpieces. Also, the composition changed over time, so there is usually no single formula (and as LT noted for Iris gris,...
  89. Re: What is the ideal temperature for storing fragrance?

    The Osmotheque in Versailles (a perfume repository) stores their perfumes in the dark at 12 Celsius, or 54 F, so pretty much as hednic is doing. But 49 is pretty close to.

    what you are describing...
  90. Re: Time sensitive: need New York City guide for shopping

    Where is the second Malle store on madison?
    After the purchase by Estee Lauder, malle has certainly seen a huge increase in distribution. (Same for Le Labo). Still no self standing Malle boutique in...
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    Re: In a moment of mad inspiration

    Lavender and vanilla. As classic as it gets. Still good to my nose. This is not about complexity or richness, it’s like a simple melody, just right. If you like the two ingredients you should be fine...
  92. Re: Recommendations of a fragrance for a kind but pessimistic, gloomy and melancholic woman?

    I as also thinking Guerlain, apres l’ondee more so than heure Bleue. A beautiful quit iris.
  93. Poll: Re: Kiehl's Original Musk X Narciso Rodriguez musc

    As others said. One is dirty and one is clean. Unfortunately I must be anosmic to one of the musks in the base of the Kiel’s so it is very weak to my nose after the nicely dirty opening. Still I...
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    Re: Best affordable introduction to oud oils

    Arabian oud is expanding in the US and has stores in nyc and dc. They are neither cheap nor the best but if you ever find yourself in either place you can dab yourself there.
  95. Re: Very very begginer, need help finding something spicey and Woody.

    Welcome!

    Chanel Antaeus is a very nice, a bit butch, woody spicy perfume. Darker than Terre d'Hermes, and without citrus.

    If you want something stronger, you can go into leathers, like the...
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    Re: Long lasting fragrance

    Welcome!

    As others were saying, Montale and Mancera have excellent longevity. Not always safe, though. In general, you want to look for materials like patchouli, leather, woods-these tends to be...
  97. Thread: Recent samplings

    by cacio
    Replies
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    Re: Recent samplings

    Glad you had such a fun smelling experience.

    Traditional eau de cologne don't last much, but they smell wonderful and always bring a smile to the face-so they're more than worthy.

    cacio
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    Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Special conference
    Wednesday september 18 715pm ESCE (Paris)

    The perfumes of Suskind
    After The perfume, story of an assassin
    An olfactive presentation by Christophe Laudamiel

    In a unique and...
  99. Thread: Signature scents

    by cacio
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    Re: Signature scents

    Have you tried Eau Sauvage? it's fresh too, but different from Sauvage. Citrusy, more natural and relaxed.
  100. Replies
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    Re: Natural smelling mediterranean fragrance?

    I was thinking Diptyque too, the earlier ones, especially Virgilio (salty thyme).
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