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  1. Replies
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    Re: methyl laitone alternative?

    Maybe, but sounds like a nice way to get photoallergy.

    Obviously I'm kidding, but those warnings can be misleading because they are not accompanied with information about the actual risk of...
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    Re: methyl laitone alternative?

    It's not bigger than life, but it is a more straight forward coconut molecule to me than C18 or gamma octalactone.
    When I smell c18 and gamma octalactone I get the coconut note of course but there...
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    Re: methyl laitone alternative?

    I wasn't aware of this limitation.
    I have successfully used it in fragrance, and it's odour strength is similar to coumarin. I don't know why TGSC says its odour strength is low.
    It's a more...
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    Re: Naphthalene smell in retro perfumes

    interesting, so it's probably a tuberose component along with vetiver what I pick up.
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    Re: methyl laitone alternative?

    sandalwood molecules are very important for coconut.
    coumarin, and a variation 6-methyl coumarin that is more coconuty
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    Naphthalene smell in retro perfumes

    There is a very distinctive naphthalene like smell in the olds perfumes like Arpege, Number 5, Boucheron and most of them actually.
    Like the mothballs my mother was using when storing clothes.
    I...
  7. Thread: Gcms

    by nicok
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    Re: Gcms

    Welcome to the world of perfume making vikramaditya.
    It is a big part of the learning process studying GCMSs of commercial perfumes.
    I learned a lot from this even though I only matched one...
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    Re: Alternate of banned chemicals?

    What myrcene usually suggests in GCMS?
    I also interpret ocimene as citrus. Am I correct?
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    Re: The best "floralizer" in your experience?

    Lyral and florosa are the most generic in my opinion if you want to introduce a floral aspect in a non floral perfume
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    Re: Hydroxycitronellal

    Hydroxycitronellal undergoes changes in the blend as the times goes by.
    I have seen in GCMS products related to Hydroxycitronellal.
    It is more possible that this products smell weaker than...
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    Re: Hydroxycitronellal

    I don't really understand the question. Can you please clarify?

    High amounts of Hydroxycitronellal are common in old perfumes.
    It wasn't always restricted.
    Same will happen with lilial, in few...
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    Re: Natural essences of Lily and Lilac?

    I haven't encountered a natural for lilac and I am a big fan of it.
    You can render the note easily with aromachemicals. You will find several accords in the literature or here.
    The tricky part is...
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    Re: Lentisque (Mastic) essential oil

    If you do an advanced search with the keyword 'Mastic', in DIY forum you will find a lot of information about the oil and distributor.
    I have written many times about this here.

    To cut a long...
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    Re: Can Hedione be used as top note?

    I don't think anyone is using Hedione as a 'note'.
    Hedione to me smells jasminic and lemony and is not so impressive on the smelling strip.
    I have used it in large and very large amounts in my...
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    Re: Johnson's baby shampoo

    Thanks Paul. I have managed to go very close to the scent of Johnson's baby powder and yes ionones are vital.
    I think it is way more complex scent than the one of Johnson's baby shampoo, which is...
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    Johnson's baby shampoo

    What materials do you pick up from Johnson's baby shampoo?

    I can pick up plenty of hexyl cinammal and jasminic notes, some musk, benzyl salicylate, aldehydes -probably several but c12 for sure,...
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    Re: Vetiver fragrance

    Also use hexyl salicylate or other salicylate at your finished fragrance. Around 2%- 4%.
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    Re: The Even More Ultimate Amber Game #2

    Amber perfume without patchouli will be like garlic bread without garlic.
    Patchouli is not in each an every amber base formula, like labdanum is, but it is very important I believe for amber.

    I...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    I hadn't checked the thread for a while.
    As the organizer of this game I feel very happy that we all enjoyed it so much,
    and I believe we all learned something through this process.
    Geco...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    oh sorry George!
    my mistake!
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Let's hope that we will be able to have the De Laire bases!

    Geco if I counted well you are the winner of the game.
    Congratulations!!!

    You can now tell us as much as you want about your...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Hello to the new members, and welcome to basenotes.
    Unfortunately submissions are now closed.
    We are the second part of the game where we waiting for the rest of the results.
    There is a third...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Seems that renegade stole the show..
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Christine and David, thank you both for taking the time to judge all the submissions. It was very kind of you to participate in the game as judges. Same for Paul and of course let's hope that Paul...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Yes let's don't break the tradition :)

    Christine we are hanging on your every word.

    As for the cistus I saw, I believe it is cistus creticus, the east mediterranean variation.
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    they are a bit sticky yes.
    It looks like a rough plant. I can imagine it surviving everywhere.
    I may try to check its root too. A Small bit without destroying the plant.

    To judges: Shall we...
  27. Thread: Mousse de Saxe

    by nicok
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    Re: Mousse de Saxe

    That's amazing news!
  28. Replies
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    It will be nice to have you caribbeanisland in a future game.

    I'd love to make a vintage amber in the lines of the base Amber 83 next time.
    Actually I have done something vintage in the past but...
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    Re: eucalyptus in perfumery

    Smell maple lactone.

    The first thing I thought when smelling it was a eucalyptus by the sea.
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    There won't be any more samples.
    You all have the total of the samples.
    You can post the results anytime suits you.
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    I have PM caribbeanisland. He has sent only one post and don't think he has contacted the other judges.
    If we don't get a reply soon, we can have the results today
  32. Replies
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Ambre 83 is not available. I assume because of musk ketone. Although I had the impression that it had been discontinued much earlier.
    David said it was used in the lagerfeld classic, which was late...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    David you have mentioned the base Ambre 83, few times.
    Apart from the fact that it is iconic and that this is what probably defined what we call amber today, I know very few things about it.
    Do...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Is this a person other than seven we have already said we will participate?
    How many samples have you received so far? They should be seven.
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Hi All!

    If Paul has received all samples too, I guess we can proceed to the evaluation anytime, even today.

    For the judges: the marks will be from 0 to 10. Marks with decimal (i.e 6.5)...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    There are the following 7:

    mumsy
    ID Adam
    Renegade
    George Tedder
    Nicok
    Geco
    Nebelgeist
  37. Replies
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Let's hope none of them is lost or destroyed, and we are nearly there.
    It seems each judge should receive seven samples.
  38. Re: A powdery, white, violet, soft and delicate dry down

    looks nice. I like the touch of Angelica in the formula. i may try it as i love green irish tweed
    Never smelled Citrylal E. Can I use Precyclemone B instead 1 to 1?
  39. Thread: Can't smell musk

    by nicok
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    Re: Can't smell musk

    I have written before about a way to learn to smell musks and other difficult materials.
    I can't smell galaxolide , musk T as easy as I can smell habanolide or musk ketone for example.
    Although I...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    I agree!

    Good luck! Also some people like rubber :)
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    I think so far the following have sent a sample:

    Renegade
    mumsy
    Geco
    ID Adam
    Nebelgeist
    myself.

    Is there anyone else planing to submit a sample?
  42. Replies
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Hello All!

    I encourage anybody that has worked on the amber perfume game to send his sample, even if it is not what he expected it to be.

    People that already sent their sample, and the ones...
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    Re: Birch Tar Question

    bellow are ingredients from Tauer's Lonestar memories, that is Birch Tar overdosed.

    Ambreine (labdanum)
    Patchouli
    Texas Cedar wood
    vetiverol
    coumarin
    myrrh
    jasmin abs
    rose abs
  44. Re: I seek chemicals base notes with green odor profile

    undecavertol? It's there from top to base. My favorite green
  45. Replies
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    As the 11th of April is near, I'd like to summarize the scope and the terms of the game:

    The game is for fun and education.
    The participants will have made an amber perfume by 11 of April and...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Please read the beginning of the thread for the terms of the game.
    It seems you want to modify the terms of a game you don't participate.

    Of course you are welcome to submit your perfume if you...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Very nice! I think I have finished too.
    For all the rest the game ends at 11 April.
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    Re: Day 1-2 in Grasse

    This is a fantastic idea!
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    Re: Can Hedione go 'off'?

    I have noticed this vomit note too.
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Welcome all!
    I think we are enough to continue with the game!
    I had thought that anything above five participants will make the game worth.

    David Ruskin we are happy to have you as judge!...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Welcome renegade!

    Can't wait to get started too.
    Let's hope more people will participate.
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Of course the formula should not be used for any other purpose than educational!
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    It's about a completed Amber fragrance.



    George I think we have to keep it simple.
    The winner will either share the formula with the rest, or send by post a sample of his perfume to the rest,...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Welcome renegade.
    I understand where you coming from. This is probably the reason that people are reluctant to participate.
    I think the rest of the participants should know about the perfume that...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    It's fine too. I just think we should give the judges a similar strength around the edp concentration.
    So 20% is fine too.
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    Good news! We have Christine and PKiler as judges so far!
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    There are people making really nice reviews on fragrances on youtube.
    Some of them have collections of hundreds of perfumes.
    If the participants don't find this idea good, we can only have...
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    Re: The Ultimate Amber game

    The first one. Although if somebody thinks he can render the amber note using ambergris this is accepted too.



    Welcome to the game George. I will participate too.
  59. Replies
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    The Ultimate Amber game

    I have an idea for a new game.
    Rendering the amber note is quite challenging and there has been a lot of discussions about it here on basenotes.
    So the game is that you will try to make the...
  60. Thread: Fig tree

    by nicok
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    Re: Fig tree

    To the ones that have already play with a fig accord.

    How would you start with a vertenex - gamma octalactone - stemone accord? which ratio?
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    Re: Pure Poison Christian Dior powderiness.

    I absolutely agree!
    EU should leave us alone!
    It is absurd to calculate all these numbers for essential materials of perfumery as orange blossom or jasmin.
    One of the reasons I started perfumery...
  62. Thread: Pure musk help

    by nicok
    Replies
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    Re: Pure musk help

    jfrater have you tried the above?

    Which iris concrete synth did you use?
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    octenyl cyclopentanone

    Has anybody smelled this?

    is there a more common material that could substitute it?
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    Re: Civettone and Muscone

    Ah lovely. How did you manage to get it Paul?
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    Re: Civettone and Muscone

    Is civettone available isolated, or synthetic?
    I don't like civet. To me it's something nice blended with feces.
    I believe that 'something nice' is civettone, and I'd like to try it isolated.
  66. Thread: Mastic Oil

    by nicok
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    Re: Mastic Oil

    It was me that included it among my favorite materials.
    I don't have experience with the one from white lotus one.
    I have the real thing from Greece.
    I can send you a small sample for a small...
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    Re: Headspace Analysis/GC

    Very interesting topic!

    From my experience I have found that linalyl acetate is always too much in the GCMS, along with some others like limonene compared to what I smell in the fragrance.
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    Re: Grapefruit Chemical similar to Citronellal

    floropal? Very grapefruit to me
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    Re: Nivea Cream accord

    Oh thanks so much.
    I'll do the blends and let you know.
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    Nivea Cream accord

    Any idea about the scent of the classic nivea cream?
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    Re: Absolue pour le soir -MFK

    From the description of animalis I have thought that maybe this is the molecule used in this fragrance.
    Haven't tried it though. Will try to get it soon
  72. Replies
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    Absolue pour le soir -MFK

    Can somebody recognize this strong animalic note in that fragrance that is present from the very opening to the drydown?
  73. Replies
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    Re: Question about labdanum

    There is a nice designer fragrance now out with an overdose of Ambroxan.
    Dior's Sauvage. The one with Johnny Depp.
  74. Replies
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    Re: Question about labdanum

    Sorry but this is inaccurate.
    Ambroxan didn't take this name because it has the same exalting effect.
    Ambroxan is the major odorous material in the ambergris tincture.
    So ambroxan IS ambergris,...
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    Re: Question about labdanum

    Vince if you are trying to match a fragrance and u want to substitute ambergris in the formula you should use ambroxan!
    No real ambergris, no reconstitution and definitely no labdanum.

    Labdanum...
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    Re: Which ingredients go off quickly?

    What a coincidence! I had the same problem last night.
    My hexyl cinnamaldehyde wasn't smelling right. Too oily.
    Mine comes from hermitage oils uk. It didn't really smell nice since I got it...
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    Re: Growing tuberoses

    Renegade, I noticed you reside in Ireland.
    Where did you buy your bulbs?
    I'm looking to buy myself.
    I think I'll put them in a mini greenhouse to help them grow.
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    Re: Benzyl Salicylate use ideas and dosage?

    I meant both. Labdanum/ benzoin or strong aroma chemicals.
  79. Thread: tobacco saffron

    by nicok
    Replies
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    Re: tobacco saffron

    You are very welcome.
    Happy that you liked that draft.
    Since you now begin it will be much easier, precise and economical to blend using dilutions of the raw materials.
    Try a trace of aldehyde...
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    Re: Benzyl Salicylate use ideas and dosage?

    I have said before that benzyl salicylate is my favorite material.
    The more I have ever used is in my vanilla fragrance and it is above 25%.

    It has very nice synergy with cis 3 hexenyl...
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    Re: Benzyl Salicylate use ideas and dosage?

    I have said before that benzyl salicylate is my favorite material.
    The more I have ever used is in my vanilla fragrance and it is above 25%.

    It has very nice synergy with cis 3 hexenyl...
  82. Thread: tobacco saffron

    by nicok
    Replies
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    Re: tobacco saffron

    I don't like what happens in nearly every forum, that somebody asks a question and everybody gives a relevant or irrelevant advise rather than an answer to the question.

    Knowing your materials,...
  83. Thread: tobacco saffron

    by nicok
    Replies
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    Re: tobacco saffron

    you have nice materials to do what you want.
    Please clarify some materials and maybe i can help you giving you a starting point.

    vanilla Madagascar: is it an absolute? is it a sticky brown...
  84. Thread: Camphor

    by nicok
    Replies
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    1,552

    Camphor

    Which natural is camphor most likely indicate in a designer fragrance?
  85. Thread: Boronia Butenal

    by nicok
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    1,031

    Re: Boronia Butenal

    Because I don't have it :embarassed:
    Thanks though. I have smelled veltonal, so I have an idea now.
  86. Thread: Boronia Butenal

    by nicok
    Replies
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    1,031

    Boronia Butenal

    What could substitute boronia butenal?
  87. Thread: Lime

    by nicok
    Replies
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    1,146

    Lime

    What lime oil/ oils do you use?
    What is your favorite and why?
  88. Replies
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    Re: Advice on tweaking an existing fragrance

    If you wanna add a ginger or grapefruit touch on Bleu in such a small atomizer try to add them diluted at 0.1% or even more.
    As David said you have a solution somewhere between 10% and 20%.
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    Re: Photos of your Perfume Organ - Just for Fun!

    41052

    I wish I had a perfume organ.. This is where I have most of my raw materials..
    i'll make some new pictures this weekend and send them to your email.
  90. Replies
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    Re: sudden Galaxolide anosmia

    Talking about replacing galaxolide, which would be the best replacement?
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    Re: Tuberique Alcohol ?

    No I didn't. I have completed my tuberose soliflore though and I think you have as well.
    I have rendered the lactonic and silky qualities of tuberose with other materials along with methyl tuberate...
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    Re: Tuberique Alcohol ?

    The name suggest maybe a tuberose component, which I've never seen before despite I have tried to read anything possible about tuberose.
    Let's wait for David
  93. Thread: Jubilation XXV

    by nicok
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    Re: Jubilation XXV

    It's luxury product marketing.
    The actual cost of the raw materials in Jubiliation XXV or any other fragrance with very few exceptions is between few cents to maximum 2 euros.
    More expensive...
  94. Thread: Jubilation XXV

    by nicok
    Replies
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    Re: Jubilation XXV

    I knew by smelling it that it was overdosed in Galaxolide but this is nearly 50% of the formula!
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    Re: Benzyl Salicylate Question

    I'm anything but anosmic to it. It is a wonderful material. One of the most important in perfumery. I would describe it as balsamic, clean,floral, delicate. I don't find it green. Amyl Salicylate is...
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    Re: Ylang Ylang Absolute

    This is why I find it very important.
    We don't have lily naturals, and this one is definitely towards lily.
    I fell in love with it immediately and ordered some more from Christine.
    I pick up a...
  97. Re: para Cresyl Acetate and para Cresyl Phenylacetate

    Nice post. Thanks David. How would you substitute para Cresyl Phenylacetate with para Cresyl Acetate. 1 to 1?
    I only have the second and I mostly see para Cresyl Phenylacetate in formulas
  98. Replies
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    Re: Tauer Perfumes - L'Air du Desert Marocain GC-MS

    Andy was always generous giving information about his fragrances.
    If he is watching this forum maybe he can tell us few things about his fragrance that for some reason became iconic.
  99. Thread: GC-MS Services

    by nicok
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    Re: GC-MS Services

    creative accord, you have a website with prices etc?
  100. Replies
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    Re: Tuberose Headspace GC-MS?

    Yes. Use eugenol and iso eugenol. Methyl diantilis is another substitute.
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