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  1. Replies
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    Re: is good sandalwood even a thing anymore?

    I actually quite like the New Caledonia sandalwood absolute offered by Eden Bontanicals. It lacks the sharp (some say urinal?) top note of Vanuatu sandalwood, and is less dry than Australian...
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    Re: Musk Ketone Replacer

    I have in no way, shape, or form, suggested that you, or any company, should or need to avoid using musk ketone or polycyclic musks. I pointed out that they are bioaccumulative as the reason "I"...
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    Re: Musk Ketone Replacer

    I agree that not all musks are equal when it comes to environmental and health impacts (and smell!). The problem with bioaccumulation is biomagnification, which preferentially affect higher order...
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    Re: Musk Ketone Replacer

    I have access to the review article from my university intranet, pdf attached.32889

    Haven't had a chance to read it yet, but generally speaking, low toxicity to mammals doesn't mean low toxicity...
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    Re: Musk Ketone Replacer

    Hmm, I saw something called silvanone at creatingperfume, it is a macrocyclic musk that, according to the description, has "aspects of nitromusk". Does anyone have experience with this one? I might...
  6. Replies
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    Re: Musk Ketone Replacer

    Which macrocyclic musk(s), if any, can be used to replace musk ketone? I think both tonalid and galaxolide are bio-accumulative.
  7. Re: Has any one tried Neroli 36 from Le Labo? What kind of musk it has?

    Did you try the musks individually? Have you tried to blend some of them? Perfumes rarely contain only one musk. Neroli 36 also has a vanilla note that may contribute to the velvety soft feeling you...
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    Re: Mimosa ABS dilute with

    I also find it odd that they claim DPG to be completely soluble in water, I thought DPG was miscible with water. But who am I to question the Dow Company...
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    Re: Mimosa ABS dilute with

    I know PG is hygroscopic, but I found this document from The Dow Chemical Company stating that DPG is hygroscopic as well:

    "Dipropylene glycol is a colorless, practically odorless liquid with a...
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    Re: is good sandalwood even a thing anymore?

    I don't recommend it, it's a demonstration accord to showcase javanol, and they overdid it. The sour note of javanol ruined it for me...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Does the formula use lavender absolute instead of EO? And I assume the opoponax is the resin?
  12. Re: Had My First Sales Event-- my experience so far...

    Congrats on your incredibly successful first sale! You should consider selling online to reach a broader customer base.

    And I agree, you and your ex were awkward because neither of you had made...
  13. Thread: Honey note

    by ariodant
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    Re: Honey note

    Is Miel IFF a good enough substitute for Miel Blanc?
  14. Re: Ethyl vanillin/methyl anthranilate Schiff's Base

    I have a similar opinion on the PA's sandalwood accord, but many sandalwood-y aromachemicals are much, much nicer. In addition to those mentioned by David, I would also add santaliff and ebanol. You...
  15. Re: Natural Florals that Give me a Headache...

    To me, jasmine sambac, lilies, hyacinth and narcissus all have a sharp, nose-jabbing top note. The quality of the sharpness is different, but the effect is the same. I wonder if that's the common...
  16. Re: Zinc in the life and smelling of a Perfumer

    Concentrated metal ions are almost always neurotoxic, please don't snort zinc! Ions are not neurotransmitters, in that neurons don't actually release them onto their synaptic targets (the definition...
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    Re: Makking solid perfumes

    Shea butter is not necessary, but beeswax has a high melting point, a pure beeswax solid perfume will be very hard to apply. You can also add liquid oils like jojoba to make the wax softer.

    Oils...
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    Re: truest ambergris

    I think this is the same IFF Ambergris Oliffac you mentioned, maybe the American version?

    http://www.creatingperfume.com/ambergristoliffac50iff.aspx
  19. Thread: Ink accord

    by ariodant
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    Re: Ink accord

    spikenard smells like ink spilled on dirty feet ;)
  20. Thread: Osmanthus

    by ariodant
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    Re: Osmanthus

    Many osmanthus accords I tested seem to recreate the lighter, fresher, more tea-like silver variety of osmanthus. I personally love the gold variety, which is prevalent in my hometown and gives off a...
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    Re: How to tame patchouli

    Don't have experience with 45% patchoulol or CO2 heart, the absolute I have is not much softer than the EO. I much prefer aged patchouli, softer, rounder with fruity hints that work well into a...
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    I have samples of Vanuatu oil from Eden and it is less similar to S. album than their New Caledonia absolute. The new oil has a sharp, some would say urinal, top note. I haven't smelled it in a year,...
  23. Re: Left a bad taste! Literally! Has this ever happened to you?

    I guess it's possible. Air travels through the nasal cavity down into the throat, and some of the offending molecules get stuck to the back of the tongue to activate the taste receptors there.
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    Re: Orris root powder

    I bought a sample of Orriniff from PA before they discontinued it. It is dry powdery and woody, lacking a bit of the complexity I was looking for.
  25. Replies
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    Re: Orris root powder

    IFF also has an orris root replacer called Irival. Curious if you have any experience with it and how it compares to Orris Givco. The description of Irival mentioned gourmand, and Justin's tincture...
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    curious why both recipe use bacdanol, not sandalmysore or santaliff, which are more widely available.
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    Re: Ambroxan crystals dilution

    10% is quite high for ambroxan, maybe try 1% in DPG?
  28. Replies
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    Re: Advice plz for Jojoba oil

    6 drops of EO in 600 drops of carrier oil =1% concentration, which is in the ballpark of massage/facial/bath oil strength. Using such dilute material will not give you much fragrance in a burner...
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    Re: Advice plz for Jojoba oil

    No, FCO cannot be used in a burner. For a traditional tea light burner, simply add water to the bowl and pour EO onto the water. The tea candle warms the water, which in turn warms and evaporates the...
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    Re: Advice plz for Jojoba oil

    Diffusing as in reed diffuser? Then you need DPG. jojoba and FCO cannot be used for diffusing. In general, fixed oil is used for massage and bath oil.
  31. Re: Paralell Post - What to Wear on the Red Carpet?

    And you did wear the Dream Coat!
  32. Re: Beginner question- how to get my perfumes smelling stronger?

    The formula you were using calls for jojoba oil mixed with ethanol and water? That will never work...You can dissolve many EOs in fixed oil, but those blends are more useful as a massage oil, because...
  33. Re: Paralell Post - What to Wear on the Red Carpet?

    Your site won't let me leave a comment...But I'll post it here. Dreamcoat rocks! At least in that picture it looks like bunch of stars/clouds/UFOs floating in the vast universe, very dreamy! It also...
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    Re: Alpha-Irone source?

    I agree with Chris that dihydro ionone beta is more woody. IFF also makes an Orriniff that's also woody but has more of the transparency you may be looking for. It used to be available from PA but...
  35. Replies
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    Re: Alpha-Irone source?

    Justin, I remembered you making tinctures of orris powder and being very satisfied with them. Orris powder should be fairly cheap compared to the concrete or alpha irone, so would tincture be the...
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    Re: Alpha-Irone source?

    If you do have a business license and a website selling your creations, you may be able to request 1oz samples from vigon. 1oz of alpha irone is still going to be more than you'll ever need though!
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    Re: Alpha-Irone source?

    For US sellers you can try TGSC. If you have a business license you can also try vigon. Otherwise Eden Botanicals have orris butter with 15% irone at a fair price. But given you are getting 100%...
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    Re: Alpha-Irone source?

    http://www.hermitageoils.com/irone-alpha-1623
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    Re: Heliotrope accord

    Heliotropin is now hard to source due to it apparently being an precursor to certain illicit drugs. Chris has mentioned Veratraldehyde being a good alternative.
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    Re: New clothing smell

    I was referring to Ed Shepp's post in my previous reply, but apparently mixed up the names of the musk...I have velvione and it smells powdery to me, probably not "new clothes".
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    Re: New clothing smell

    I remembered someone on this forum once said dilute velvione smells like newly ironed shirts...Many white musk chemicals are widely used in laundry detergents and are associated with the clean,...
  42. Re: Using fragrance oils in perfumes in combination with naturals?

    Really depends on the quality of the FO. Most would smell like air fresheners, but occasionally I come across some fairly realistic ones. If you've sampled and liked the FOs, I don't see why you...
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    Re: Honeysuckle absolute from Haven Essence

    If Safranal is such a near identical substitute for saffron EO/abs/CO2, why is it not more readily available? Pricing?
  44. Replies
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    Re: Working with Labdanum ABS

    Yes you should warm it up. Many absolutes don't dissolve well in vegetable oils, so use DPG or ethanol.
  45. Replies
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    Re: Anosmic to sandalwood recreations

    Muscone and Cosmone are available from Perfumers Apprentice, if you are in the US. Both are quite animalic to me.
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    Re: Magnolia Accord

    Magnolia EO is available from Liberty Natural at $40/oz. I have some from last year's batch and it smells quite nice. Fresh and clean.
  47. Thread: Heliotropine

    by ariodant
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    1,362

    Re: Heliotropine

    I wonder why no other company sells veratraldehyde? With heliotropine banned, veratraldehyde should be in high demand...
  48. Replies
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    1,223

    Re: Cheap dupe for Rigaud Cypres candle?

    This company makes a dupe in fragrance oil. You can make a candle with it or simply diffuse. I haven't tried it and do not know if it's a good dupe.
    ...
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    Re: Creating a fig fragrance

    I think there's a synthetic accord for jasmine sambac from Givaudan....and balsam fir should be cheap. But Yuzu will be equally expensive as sambac absolute.
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    Re: Cabreuva/Neridol

    what does cabreuva smell like?
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    Re: Water based fragrances that can be wicked

    I suspect that the water soluble fragrances contain dispersing agents like polysorbates.
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    Re: Oh boy...Sandalwood

    I suspect that the plastic, sharp smell comes from the combination of leaf alcohol, patchouli and methyl cendryl ketone. I would say that this accord is more close to a newly distilled Australian...
  53. Re: I Need Help, Making fragrance oil for burning

    I don't know what's in your fragrance oil or if it's suitable for oil burning, you should ask the vendor for assistance.
  54. Re: I Need Help, Making fragrance oil for burning

    When people say use water for oil burning, they mean pour water onto the burner, warm the water up, then drop fragrance or essential oils on top of the water. Because water has a high heat capacity,...
  55. Re: I Need Help, Making fragrance oil for burning

    water and oils don't mix, you need a different solvent.
  56. Replies
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    Re: A sad day at Pell Wall

    Sorry to hear the sad news. She was beautiful and obviously very loving (and loved).
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    Re: Mixing coconut and ylang ylang

    No they are not. They are aroma chemicals, molecules designed by companies like IFF to capture the scent of naturals that are difficult to distill. The aroma chemicals mentioned are available at...
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    Re: I just got punched in the face by GALBANUM

    dilution, dilution, dilution. And even then it will never play nice. It's meant to bite, and provide a contrast to other sweet or floral notes. Think chanel 19, miss dior original, and safari.
  59. Replies
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    Re: hmmm is this still Sandalwood?

    I don't really trust new direction's oils. A friend of mine bought either patchouli or vetiver oil from them and found the oil to not completely dissolve in pure ethanol. The company said it's a...
  60. Replies
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    Re: Suggestions for a sweet woody base note?

    Labdanum + benzoin + vanilla = the classic amber note in perfume. You'll have fun with that for sure! Atlas cedar tend to be rather weak in a blend, you may want to be generous or use Virginia cedar...
  61. Replies
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    Re: hmmm is this still Sandalwood?

    I agree. Synthetic sandalwood accords are sharp and dry. They never recapitulate the smooth creaminess of the real thing. I'm surprised that people have not come up with ways to mass-synthesize...
  62. Re: Advantages/Disadvantages of using Fragrance Oil

    This has been discussed many times before in this forum. But to summarize, you don't know the recipe. And that's the biggest disadvantage for DIY. You are learning to make your own, and not knowing...
  63. Replies
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    Re: hmmm is this still Sandalwood?

    I think the best way is to contact Mr. Steele directly and ask for the source and year of your oil. We can only speculate and guess, but he has the real answers.
  64. Re: Can you add fragrance/essential oil to a cologne?

    you can try to make a perfume oil with DPG, which can dissolve most aroma chemicals, and just use it like Arabian attars. Cyclomethicone is a sprayable sylicone that evaporates fast, but not all...
  65. Re: Can you add fragrance/essential oil to a cologne?

    I'm afraid oils won't do it. They are too heavy to spray, and do you really want to spray yourself with oil?

    Some fragrance materials also don't dissolve in oil. Your fragrance concentrate may...
  66. Replies
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    Re: hmmm is this still Sandalwood?

    Vetiver and Patchouli can be aged as well. Some rumors have it that you need enough quantity to age EOs well, i.e. a few ml won't give you the same result as a kilo, over the same period of time. I...
  67. Replies
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    Re: Galaxolide: Toxic? Alternatives?

    PA sells auranone which is mainly romandolide plus some other alicyclic musks. Vigon sells 1oz samples if I remember correctly? You can also buy some from Chris.
  68. Replies
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    Re: Please Critique my Recipe

    I've had friends who had problems with new direction's EO being cut with solvents. I would recommend you checking out the suppliers thread for trusted EO sellers.
  69. Replies
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    Re: Galaxolide: Toxic? Alternatives?

    Some studies seem to indicate toxicity of galaxolide and tonalid towards worms and fish. Not surprising, as many synthetics are more harmful to those simple organisms than mammals. Galaxolide is a...
  70. Re: Natural versus synthetic musk - back to the topic

    I thought ambroxan is not the same as -(-)ambroxide...
  71. Re: Natural versus synthetic musk - back to the topic

    Chris I think your ambrofix vs. ambroxan is here: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/311637-Ambergris

    but I thought your conclusion was that they were similar with only subtle differences?
  72. Replies
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    Re: Mineral Notes?

    That's just ridiculous. Buying small amounts of heliotropin shouldn't be a big deal, don't you need fairly large quantities to make illicit drugs from it? Chemical synthesis comes with significant...
  73. Replies
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    Re: natural vs artificial musk

    How does this compare to the racemic muscone from PA? Seems to be much more expensive...
  74. Re: Fleuressences, Bases and Aroma chemicals: insight please?

    Chris has a blog entry with a very comprehensive list of materials recommended for starters:

    http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/starter-kit-for-diy-perfume-making.html
  75. Re: Recreating violet/powder notes without synthetics

    Vetiver from Haiti especially has a powdery, orris-like quality that dominates after less than an hour. The Indian/Java vetiver will be more smoky and sticky. Vetiveryl acetate is used in perfumery...
  76. Replies
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    Re: Leather 50 (Cuir 50) ?

    PA actually stocks both safraleine and suederal LT in addition to their own leather key accord. Safraleine is a wonderful ingredient in low concentration, but it's very strong and sharp if overused....
  77. Re: PA's rose, jasmine, sandalwood key accords - realistic/natural? Hermitage oils - rose

    I have their rose accord and I don't really like it. I like my rose heavy and vintage. Their rose accord is too bright, too fresh and too fruity. Given the myriad of roses out there, it's possible...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Ladies, I want some caramel!

    A cheap gender-neutral delight would be Molinard Vanille Marine. Subtle freshness, smooth vanilla, and lots, and lots, and lots, and lots of caramel.
  79. Replies
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    Re: I did it! First fragrance I'm happy with

    Congratulations! What are the ingredients of this sweet and herbal concoction? :)
  80. Replies
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    Re: Osmanthus absolute

    The absolute may not smell exactly like the material it's extracted from. With that said, I also suspect that you received a synthetic fake.
  81. Re: Desperate to find an affordable alternative to Bois 1920 Real Patchouly

    I'm curious, may I ask what kind of "amber paste" do you have? Is it the fossilized resin "amber" or the extract of rock rose "labdanum"? I assume it's not ambergris, because that's usually a...
  82. Thread: Ambergris

    by ariodant
    Replies
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    7,270

    Re: Ambergris

    Great posts, Chris. I also have to update to say that I found out my anosmia to grisalva was indeed nose fatigue. The mere action of handling the bottle to make a dilution saturated my nose. For...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Thickener for oil-based perfumes

    Any wax will do, including mineral waxes that will be cheaper than beeswax. Even plain petrolatum will work.
  84. Re: The Search for Green Tea Givco! Humbly Needing Help

    That's too bad, I didn't even realize Green Tea was taken off the PA site. I'm sure Givco still manufactures it, I can smell it in SMW. If you do decide to buy from Chris, I can take 100ml. I doubt...
  85. Replies
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    Re: Most embarrassing story

    Once used some petitgrain EO for cold sore (it helped!). But at work the girl sitting across mumbled something about "smelling formalin"...And I consider petitgrain to be one of the best smelling EOs!
  86. Replies
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    Re: what keeps my nose from falling asleep?

    The science behind nose fatigue is mostly receptor desensitization. Olfactory receptors are G protein coupled receptors that trigger downstream events in the olfactory neuron by activating and...
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    Re: Self-Made DIY kit - naturals

    Does galbanum completely dissolve in enthanol? I know frankincense tears don't, and the tincture is quite sticky. After that experience I haven't tried my hands on resins again...
  88. Replies
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    Re: uh oh Duchaufour

    This is a vast exaggeration, but with the same argument, should I proudly purchase and display Hitler's paintings, created when he was but a teen?

    I don't see my decision as a punishment for the...
  89. Replies
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    Re: uh oh Duchaufour

    We did get better as a species, but not by doing nothing. I'm not going to judge Mr. Duchaufour himself, but he did serve a dictator, and I made the personal choice of not purchasing his perfumes....
  90. Replies
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    Re: Self-Made DIY kit - naturals

    I would recommend getting more base notes, labdanum, patchouli, frankincense, vanilla, etc.
  91. Replies
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    Re: uh oh Duchaufour

    Mr. Duchaufour probably won't get my business anymore either. I grew up in an oppressive country and the description of Uzbekistan under Islam Karimov gives me uncomfortable flashbacks.
  92. Replies
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    Re: volatile coffee EO

    cold pressed coffee oil is primarily fatty acids, or fixed oil, that are insoluble in ethanol.
  93. Replies
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    Re: Medicinal topnote desired

    Tea tree oil smells very harsh and medicinal to me.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Tea tree oil smells very harsh and medicinal to me.
  94. Re: Angelica root (What can I do with this stinker?)

    Have you considered Liberty Natural? It's a US company, but I'm fairly certain they ship internationally. They offer two European and one Indian angelica oils. I haven't tested any of these three,...
  95. Re: Angelica root (What can I do with this stinker?)

    A better way is buying angelica oils from reputable sources and do the comparison yourself...
  96. Re: Angelica root (What can I do with this stinker?)

    If it's the real oil, it's likely to be different from the more frequently used European angelica, Angelica archangelica. The Asian angelica is Angelica acutiloba, or Dong Qui, an essential herb in...
  97. Thread: Ambergris

    by ariodant
    Replies
    63
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    7,270

    Re: Ambergris

    Thanks Chris! Very informative! I guess I need to get some of both to experience myself...
  98. Thread: Ambergris

    by ariodant
    Replies
    63
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    7,270

    Re: Ambergris

    Chris, what is the difference in scent profile between pure ambroxan and mixed isomer ambroxan? Is the pure one just stronger, or do the other isomers smell different?
  99. Thread: Ambergris

    by ariodant
    Replies
    63
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    7,270

    Re: Ambergris

    Hmm, that's interesting. I've seen people complaining that they don't detect much scent from their ambergris. I haven't smelled real ambergris, but I have grisalva from PA which supposedly mimics...
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    Re: Guerlain Apres L'Onde

    PA sells a heliotropin replacer, but I have no experience with it.
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