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  1. Replies
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    Re: Musk xylene/musk ketone

    From my notes, here's the aproximate solubility of musk ketone in various diluents:

    methyl carbitol - 9%
    benzyl benzoate - 25%
    DEP - 16%
    dimethyl phthalate (DMP) - 18%
    ethanol (95%) - 1.8%
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    Re: Alternative to Hermitage - AUS

    Hi Clara,
    Sorry I'm coming in late on this thread - I've been in Melbourne being a Chandler Burr groupy LOL
    I feel for yourself and others who are needing synthetics here in Aus. Building up...
  3. Thread: Green Tea Accord

    by Mark
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    Re: Green Tea Accord

    Found this in my notes...

    GREEN TEA AROMATICS:
    Indole
    Methyl Salicylate
    Jasmin Lactone
    Nerolidol
    Benzil Cyanide
    Benzil Alcohol
    3, 4 Linalol Oxydol
  4. Re: Propolis - various types from various places - long term experiment - samples welcome

    Thank you so much for this thread, I've been wondering about using propolis for a long time. Is the resulting tincture very strong (like vanilla bean tincture for example) or is it more subtle,...
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    Re: Adventures in diluting crystals...

    Local Asian groceries here sell ear cleaner spoons (google them, you'll see what I mean) tiny little spatula-like spoons that do the job perfectly.
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Hi Todd,

    My perfume Olibanum obviously has frankincense as the main note as well and when I was working on it I also had a hard time with the citruses in the top note - they had to be dosed very...
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    Re: Hermitage Oils and Pell Wall Join Forces

    I'll jump in here as well and say to the Australian and New Zealand members that if there are any Hermitage products you would like me to stock locally, just email me at...
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    Re: Shangrilide....yes!!!!

    Thanks for this, but I wouldn't pay too much attention to these synonyms on TGSC. They are all just names for other musk blends.
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    Re: Shangrilide....yes!!!!

    So...where can one obtain some shangrilide?
  10. Thread: Gunpowder essence

    by Mark
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    1,409

    Re: Gunpowder essence

    Thanks Hondo,

    I'll give that a try.
  11. Thread: Gunpowder essence

    by Mark
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    1,409

    Re: Gunpowder essence

    Hi Hondo,
    Thank you for the warning. Yes, I did mean the poppers that you have to pull the string. Maybe it is not such a good idea without further research.
    I've never smelled Amazinggreen, but I...
  12. Thread: Gunpowder essence

    by Mark
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    Re: Gunpowder essence

    Interesting experiment. I've often thought of 'tincturing' those little party poppers after they have been popped to try and capture the firework smell. Actually, I remember seeing a bag of them at...
  13. Thread: Perfumer's World

    by Mark
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    Re: Perfumer's World

    I've ordered from them many times and haven't had too much trouble with quality or response times. They use these awful wide mouthed aluminium bottles that are impossible to open without creating a...
  14. Thread: Daphne Scent...

    by Mark
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    Re: Daphne Scent...

    Here's a daphne formula from my notes, I'm afraid I can't remember where it comes from but I hope it helps...

    lemon 1.4
    lemonile 0.2
    bergamot 0.6
    petitgrain 0.4
    ginger 0.2
    cis-3-hexanol 0.1...
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    Re: Blotter evaluation vs skin evaluation

    Thanks for enlightening, David. That all makes sense now.
  16. Replies
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    Re: Blotter evaluation vs skin evaluation

    I have the same problem, Justin. I've never understood why you see all these images of perfumers evaluating on strips when the smell on skin is so completely different. I once saw a quote that Jean...
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    Re: reducing oilyness?>

    Have you used a resin tincture in the blend? They can leave a layer on the skin which may be tacky or slightly sticky.
  18. Thread: Honey Notes

    by Mark
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    Re: Honey Notes

    At the bottom of my Beeswax Absolute blog entry here http://evocativeperfumes.com/blog/?p=76
    I list the main aromatic components of beeswax that may be a help to you.
  19. Thread: Dissolving solids

    by Mark
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    Re: Dissolving solids

    In this situation I just pre-heat the dropper in my hand for a while or run it under hot water followed by a quick dip in alcohol to dry it off. If a dropper does become clogged up, then hang it up...
  20. Thread: Heliotrope accord

    by Mark
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    Re: Heliotrope accord

    I believe it is Heliotropex N produced by IFF
  21. Re: How to speed up the blending/curing process of a fragrance

    Reading Chris' comments on using warmth - for a long time now I've been using a USB coffee warmer for this sort of thing. You can get them for a couple of dollars on eBay and they don't get overly...
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    Re: DEB Mix for diluting

    I don't see anything wrong with using alcohol that has a 'built-in' fixative. It should be fine to use.
  23. Thread: Dilution problems

    by Mark
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    Re: Dilution problems

    This is exactly how I work as well.
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    Re: DEB Mix for diluting

    As far as I can find, DEB Mix is a blend of denatured ethanol, musk and propylene glycol that is produced in Thailand.
    I thought it might be something brought out by Perfumers World, but I couldn't...
  25. Thanks for the great series, Jordan. Interesting...

    Thanks for the great series, Jordan. Interesting to read that the current price for the oil is above that for Indian Mysore oil. I read elsewhere a while ago that the end price is expected to drop...
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    Re: Christmas scent - please share

    I made up a Christmas spray yesterday ostensibly to spray on the tree to keep the cats off! For that reason I included a large portion of citrus oils and the result was really nice. I didn't write...
  27. Thread: Heliotrope accord

    by Mark
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    Re: Heliotrope accord

    Here's another heliotrope formula for you, can't remember where it comes from...

    180 Helioptropin
    100 Benzyl Alcohol
    60 Hydroxycitronellol
    60 Geranyl Acetate
    40 Isoeugenol
    35 Aldehyde C-14...
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    Re: Mignonette (Reseda odorata) Reseda absolute

    To quote from an email I received in response to a samples request..
    "Our sample policy at Parchem is we must charge $500 towards samples which would be used as a credit against your purchase of a...
  29. Thread: What is Z11?

    by Mark
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    Re: What is Z11?

    In my notes I have it written that Z-11 is a woody material from Firmenich also known as Amberketal. No idea where I found this info.

    - - - Updated - - -



    In my notes I have it written that...
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    Re: Mignonette (Reseda odorata) Reseda absolute

    The only supplier I can find is Parchem http://www.parchem.com/chemical-supplier-distributor/reseda-absolute-014595.aspx
    However they won't supply small amounts and charge $500 for samples.

    Let...
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    Re: Incense note needed

    Sounds like you tried Boswellia carteri which has a strong lemony / piney top note. Boswellia serrata might be more what you are after, particularly the CO2 extraction.
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    Re: Vogue's Vapour Trail - Christmas List 2013

    My SOTD - Gin & Lime in celebration.

    Well done, Chris.
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    Re: Reference rose materials: Redux

    Looks like you've selected an interesting range of materials there. Make sure you test them on skin after you've diluted them as well as on card. You get a better idea that way. I can never figure...
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    Re: Plum Note / Accord

    Hey Paul, I just had a thought, what about an absolute of plum wine? Use a bottle of Japanese plum wine and if you can find a rotovap to use (your chemist friend?) or even at home the same way you...
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    Re: What does Frankincense smell like?

    This sounds good, I wonder how it compares to choya loban and I wonder if it would be possible to try for a sample.
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    Re: Buying and Selling Ambergris

    Hi CK,

    If you're writing a book on ambergris, you may be interested in this document on its origins...
    http://lajamjournal.org/index.php/lajam/article/download/231/183
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    Re: Plum Note / Accord

    Hi Paul,

    I agree with the DMBCA and DMBCB mentioned by BAGreat. I'd include damascenones (as I sure you've already figured) and Prunella (Firm) and also alpha ionone for some dry floralcy.
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    Re: Benzyl Salicylate question

    A mix of benzyl sal & eugenol at a ratio of 9:2 is used as a basic carnation note and this is used as the main accord in L'Air du Temps along with iso-eugenol (a softer, powdery incarnation of...
  39. Thread: My first perfume!

    by Mark
    Replies
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    Re: My first perfume!

    Good job. Congratulations on your first perfume.
    A couple of things that come to mind looking at the formula:
    The base notes may be a bit heavy with the amount benzoin, sandalwood, muscenone and...
  40. Thread: Mad Scientist?

    by Mark
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    Re: Mad Scientist?

    The Perfumers Search Page also has a Demonstration Formulas search which directly searches these Good Scents Company formulas as well as formulas from other sites.
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    Re: Do you remember smells literally?

    I've been training myself on perfumery materials for years now and I can get an idea on an intellectual level what two smells combined would result in, but I'm not able to actually perceive the...
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    Re: What does everyone's laboratories look like?

    Hmm, I replied before about the rubber droppers but the post seems to have gone missing.
    OK, try again.

    The bottles are 25ml amber Boston rounds with screw on eye-droppers. I believe the droppers...
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    Re: What does everyone's laboratories look like?

    Hi Ambolt,
    The local Go Vita Health Shop stocks them, along with a small range of essential oils. I clean them out of bottles every time I go in there :)
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    Re: What does everyone's laboratories look like?

    My workspace is tiny. It is actually a small desk beneath a bunk bed in the spare room.

    19328

    and behind me are small cupboards and boxes packed full with materials and vials etc

    19329

    I...
  45. Thread: Fresh Air

    by Mark
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    Re: Fresh Air

    I agree with Ed Shepp - floralozone, aphermate with hedione and aldehyde C-9
    But then you would also want something to cancel out the bad smells as well - a little citral and helional maybe.
    Sounds...
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    Re: From a little to much to much to little...

    Interesting topic, Jeroen

    I'd add linalyl acetate and phenethyl alcohol to the list.
    But I would remove the rose alcohols, geraniol and citronellol and probably lilial as well - these can get...
  47. Thread: Rum note

    by Mark
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    Re: Rum note

    There are many different materials that can be used to give a rum note, depending on whether you are after a boozy, ethereal, fruity or raisin aspect to it.
    Common ones are:
    Davana,
    Methyl...
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    Re: Do You Share/Sell Your Fragrances?

    I'm selling too, locally as well as online from http://evocativeperfumes.com
    Not full time yet - one day.
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    Re: Wonderful smoke tincture: DIY

    I forgot that they don't have their specialities on the website.
    Get in contact with them and ask about it - I have no idea how Hydrocarboresine is made, but it is sooo good.
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    Re: Wonderful smoke tincture: DIY

    Hi Jeroen,

    Interesting, I may give this a try.
    Have you tried the Biolandes speciality called Hydrocarboresine?
    This has an amazing smell of burnt incense - worth a try.
  51. Thread: Cotton/Wool note

    by Mark
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    Re: Cotton/Wool note

    For a cotton / wool note I'd suggest you experiment with some musks (Velvione or muscone) with a touch of patchouli and costus/costausol or helional?
  52. Replies
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    Re: hmmm is this still Sandalwood?

    It's concerning to me that you say this sandalwood came from Perfumer's Apprentice from their John Steele selection. I thought these were really good quality - their price would suggest so.
    I just...
  53. Sticky: Re: DIY Suppliers List

    Hi all,

    Don't forget that all of the suppliers listed in this thread as well as many others can be searched through from a single location using the Perfumer's Search Page here......
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    Re: Handy Perfumer's Search page

    Glad you find it useful, Chris.
    If you would like to see anything added or improved, let me know.
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    Handy Perfumer's Search page

    Hi all,

    I just wanted to let you all know about a handy utility for perfumers that I have put on the web and is free for all to use.
    It is a page of custom searches that will search through:
    the...
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    Re: muguet carboxaldehyde

    HI,

    You cannot purchase directly from these companies unless you are a large corporation in which case you would be purchasing through a distributor and buying hundreds of kilograms at a time.
    ...
  57. Re: Article: Thierry Wasser on Mitsouko reformulation and IFRA regulations

    Hi Chris,

    See here - http://www.edenbotanicals.com/essential-oils-orange-oregano-patchouli-pepper-peppermint-petitrain-pine.html#oakmoss

    They seem to be out of stock at the moment, though.
    Let...
  58. Re: Help me date this bottle of (Vintage?) Chanel No 5?

    From the stopper design, it looks to date from the 70s. See http://reviews.ebay.com/Dating-Vintage-Chanel-Perfumes_W0QQugidZ10000000002810781
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    Re: Aromachemicals for dummies

    If you really want to learn more go to
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/perfumemaking/
    and join in the discussions. The folks on this list are always willing to help out with any question,...
  60. Thread: Denatured Alcohol

    by Mark
    Replies
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    Re: Denatured Alcohol

    I use technical grade, denatured alcohol without a problem. There can be an alcohol 'blast' in the first second or two, but this goes away after the perfume is aged for a while or by adding a little...
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    Re: Acquiring samples in Australia

    L'Artisan Parfumeur also let you order 5 samples at no cost, except for $7 US postage fee.

    Have a look here.. http://www.artisanparfumeur.us/store/order_sample.php

    I have also had luck with...
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    Re: Addicted: Wearing Whatever I Damn Well Please

    You've inspired me! Damnit... I'm wearing a skirt to the office tomorrow!

    Seriously, though, so far I have gotten away with wearing Dzing, Ambre Extreme, D&G Red, and Angel to work with just the...
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    Re: ESSENTIAL OILS from EMS.  Gonna make my o

    Have a look at http://www.perfumersworld.com/ in the software section, they have a great application called The Perfumer's Workbook that is really handy for keeping track of your experiments.
    It has...
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    Re: bitter & herbal & green

    Ummm, What About Adam?? Huh? What about it??

    Light and greeny freshy breezy easy wearing.
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    Re: I suffer from fragrance boredom!

    BRAVO!!!
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    Re: Why do you collect perfume?

    (Off topic)
    I'm glad someone else knows this album - the best, early electro-pop in existence! I can still pick out samples and influences from YMO and Kraftwerk in so much of the new music that...
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    Re: What is the fragance that you hate?

    Brut 33 yuk!

    Farenheit - smells like burnt tar on my skin and catches in my throat
  68. Replies
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    Re: Why do you collect perfume?

    I am a sensuist. That is, I crave the experiences provided by all of the senses - beauty in the visual arts, music, food and, most importantly (because it is so primal and primitive) smell. So when I...
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    Re: Men!!!  Who's with me???!!

    I have NEVER seen another male hanging around at the perfume counter trying out this and that, including the womens perfume, just because it all smells so good!!

    Why not? what's wrong with society...
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    Kenzo hermaphrodudes

    I was sent an advert for the woman's pefume Summer by Kenzo today and as a result, ended up on the Kenzo site, checking out the latest men's range. ( www.kenzo.com )

    I found myself quite liking...
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    Re: SOTD Wednesday 22 June 2005

    The day is just finishing for me. It started with a true friend CK One and finished with the duskier Jako ( Lagerfeld )

    By the way, I was reading that Jako was inspired by the Jako villa on the...
  72. Thread: Fresh Cut Grass

    by Mark
    Replies
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    Re: Fresh Cut Grass

    I'll second Joop What About Adam. Greeeeen and fresh. My current favourite.
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    Sticky: Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    The Perfumers World website ( http://www.perfumersworld.com ) has some great software called The Perfumer's Workbook you can download for free.
    It has a raw material database, a section where you...
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