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  1. Replies
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    Re: Define QUALITY in a fragrance

    No.
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    Re: Pipette blown up by Citral

    Be very careful when using anything plastic close to any perfumery ingredient. Never leave anything plastic in close proximity to any fragrance material. There are many types of plastic, and...
  3. Thread: Accord?

    by David Ruskin
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    Re: Accord?

    Just so. An accord occurs when a mix of ingredients creates something that is greater than the sum of those ingredients. It is not always predictable, and often, with a good accord, it is very...
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    Re: Vanilla and musk ketone

    The original Shalimar used Ethyl Vanillin (the first fragrance to do so). Ethyl Vanillin is much stronger than Vanillin. No idea if it is in the Shalimar flanker you mention, but it is worth a...
  5. Replies
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    Re: DIPG in Demo Formulas

    Something we call "dilution".
  6. Re: UPDATED!!! Choosing fragrance without tasting

    Never blind buy unless the recommendation is made by someone who knows you very well. Always smell first.
  7. Re: Guy Robert (amouage gold & crystal) spea`ks!

    I met Guy Robert on several occasions, and indeed attended this lecture. He was a sweet and humble man; and a fantastic Perfumer.
  8. Replies
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    Re: Lily of the Valley

    Back to the PDF, whoever "owns" it; they missed out the Indole too.
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    Re: Lily of the Valley

    pkiler, are you really Yoda?
  10. Re: Making perfume basics. Fragrance alcohol and water. Any formula?

    Why not try it and see.
  11. Re: What is the different between these 2 Bergamot oils?

    Exactly so. Bergamot oil expressed from the skin of the fruit contains chemicals (called Bergaptenes and Furocoumarins) which are skin sensitisers. They cause photo-sensitivity, so that you put...
  12. Re: Making perfume basics. Fragrance alcohol and water. Any formula?

    There is a stickie at the top of this Forum which clearly states, Do Not Add Water To A Fragrance. When this question has been asked, and it has been asked many, many times, the answer is always...
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    Re: DIPG in Demo Formulas

    A demonstration formula is usually created to show off a particular ingredient. The standard way of doing this is to have version A containing the item being shown, and version B without the test...
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    Re: Lily of the Valley

    Milhaus, I don't remember the exact figures I'm afraid. I created a Lily of the Valley base as a result of Headspace analysis carried out on the flowers growing in my garden. I remember using Ho...
  15. Re: Scent of a person vs scent of a thing

    Before a piece of cloth has been cut into shape, it can be turned into whatever you like. It is only after it has been cut and stitched that its function is determined. Not sure if this analogy...
  16. Re: Making perfume basics. Fragrance alcohol and water. Any formula?

    You have asked the same question several times, here and on other Forum sites. You have been answered. Why do you continue to ask the same question over and over again? Are you hoping that one...
  17. Replies
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    Re: making pure perfume?

    If the alcohol you want to use smells strongly, it is no good for Perfumery; sorry there is nothing you can do about it. You should try to get some better quality alcohol or put up with the bad...
  18. Replies
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    Re: How can i make perfumers alcohol??

    If you can obtain 95.0% ethanol you can use it as it is. If you want to denature it, add some Bitrex which will make it taste bad, and so denature it.
  19. Re: Scent of a person vs scent of a thing

    And there is, of course, the "Trickle Down effect`'. Cool Water types have been used in everything from deodorant, to air freshener, to toilet cleaner. Cool Water lends itself to functional...
  20. Re: Scent of a person vs scent of a thing

    I quite understand your reaction to Demeter; they are a strange bunch. I have worked on a couple of Demeter fragrances, and I think the strangeness lies in the weird odour types required. They...
  21. Replies
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    Re: Lily of the Valley

    The Headspace analysis of Muguet shows that the major components are Linalol, Citronellol and Benzyl Acetate. Indole is vital. Look at Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinol and Cinnamic Alcohol too, as well...
  22. Re: Scent of a person vs scent of a thing

    In my experience there is no difference in the type of ingredients used for personal fragrances and those which are used in a particular application; with some provisos, of course. Stability is...
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    Re: Formula manipulation

    One final, final calculation. Say you have a formula that adds up to 9.5 (Kilos, grammes or grommets) and you want to make 15.0 (Kilos, grammes or grommets), how do you write out the formula for...
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    Re: Formula manipulation

    It doesn't matter, the principal is the same. Say you have a formula that adds up to 100.0, so it is expressed in percentages (percent is parts per hundred), and you want to make 20.0 gms of it, or...
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    Re: Formula manipulation

    It doesn't matter what the unit is; it can be kilos, grammes, pounds, ounces. The principal is the same.
  26. Re: Which note cause the base of ADG and L'eau D'issey pour homme to 'radiate' and smell so heavenly

    Don't forget Ambroxan.
  27. Replies
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    Re: Formula manipulation

    One last calculation that you may find useful. If you have a formula that adds up to 100.0 (i.e. it is expressed as percentages) and you want to make up a different amount, here is what you do. ...
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    Re: Formula manipulation

    You have a basic accord, and you have 10.0gms of it, and you want to try out two separate new materials. Do you know how much of each new material you want to try? If you are not sure you should...
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    Re: Formula manipulation

    It is not necessary to work in percentages, nor is it necessary to have the same total when you are creating. ( I always did but that is another matter.) What is important is to write down every...
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    Re: Formula manipulation

    It is so easy to do it, with just a piece of paper and a calculator. You really don't need a spreadsheet. Remember that "Percentage" means per hundred. The first thing you must do is add up the...
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    Re: Formula manipulation

    Are you asking how to convert the amounts in your formulation into percentages?
  32. Re: Jasmine flower accord , cis jasmone, methyl jasmonate

    I don't know how it works but I do know that it does. Adding a small amount of cis-Jasmone to a Jasmin base improves it enormously. You don't need much for a big change to occur.
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    Re: Pickle smelling incense

    Do you mean it smells like vinegar? If so, you are smelling Acetic acid which is the oxidation product of Ethanol. Acetic acid is also produced when Acetates are saponified.
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    Re: E.O. Distilling at Home

    Sorry to rain on your parade but I hope you realise the volume of starting material you will need to produce even a few ccs of Essential oil. May I give you a few examples:-

    To produce 8.0 gms...
  35. Re: Anyone know a source for Givaudan Chocovan?

    Which is, I think, Cocoa Pyrazine, as mentioned above.
  36. Re: Jasmine flower accord , cis jasmone, methyl jasmonate

    cis Jasmone changes a mixture of chemicals trying to be Jasmin, into a realistic Jasmin accord. I don't think you can do without it.
  37. Re: Geosmin - Looking for Guidance About How to Sell It

    I have never found DPG to be especially viscous. Nor heavy, nor oily. Not sure what is going on there.

    I'm not interested in your source of Geosmin, but am concerned that you are buying a...
  38. Replies
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    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    I quite agree with you. However, if I feel I am being treated unfairly, I will defend myself. I have yet to insult anyone on this thread; I feel I have been insulted, and do not like it. And will...
  39. Replies
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    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    Could you try to equate these two statements. To me you are being rude, and doubly so when you accuse others of being so.
  40. Replies
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    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    So you mention "snobbery" where it doesn't exist. Maybe you are not aware, but your tone has insulted and annoyed quite a few here. You may not think that important, but I for one would prefer to...
  41. Replies
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    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    No, it wasn't.
  42. Re: Geosmin - Looking for Guidance About How to Sell It

    Where are you buying it? Are you buying the concentrate and diluting yourself? It really is very strong.
  43. Re: Anyone know a source for Givaudan Chocovan?

    As Chocovan is a Givaudan (actually a Quest Int.) speciality base I'm sure it is full of captives. Levistamel, Isobutavan and Ultravanil come to mind. And I'm sure that Cocoa Pyrazine has been...
  44. Re: Geosmin - Looking for Guidance About How to Sell It

    In my experience DPG has little or no odour, and certainly does not affect the remarkable smell of Geosmin. I would check the quality of your DPG before doing anything else. A 1.0% solution of...
  45. Re: Why are Perfumes and Colognes so popular?

    The list of marketing BS is spot on; that is exactly how the advertising and marketing industry thinks about the promotion of fragrances and frgranced products. It has been shown time after time...
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    Re: Blond Leather Accord

    Suederal for sure. I have no idea what is in it, but it is perfect as a suede note, or a "blond leather" note and should not be ignored. I agree with you about Castoreum or Birch Tar. There...
  47. Replies
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    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    I don't think that any of us should be put off from expressing our opinions, and giving our advice. I for one will not be silenced or bullied, and I hope that you won't either. If someone asks a...
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    Re: Percentage Conversion W/W to V/V

    0.98 is close enough to 1.0 to make no difference in the great scheme of things. Ethanol has a density of 0.789 gms./litre (0.8gm/l). I'd say w/w and v/v were pretty equivalent. You don't have...
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    Re: Percentage Conversion W/W to V/V

    Depends on the specific gravity of your fragrance.
  50. Replies
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    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    Why such an aggressive tone? Name a "self appointed expert". If you mean me then say so. Name some of those who "suck up". Whenever I contribute here I express my own opinion which is based...
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    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    Fables, another one who gives no information about themselves; no name, not country, nothing. Why am I not surprised.
  52. Replies
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    1,692

    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    Oh please !!!
  53. Replies
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    1,692

    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    Good luck. If you don't care about the money, and you don't care about the volume sold, you just enjoy what you do care about. If you want to make a living out of it; good luck.
  54. Replies
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    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    Good luck. Of course the product is more important than the marketing; unfortunately, most people seem not to agree.
  55. Replies
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    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    Things are worth what people are prepared to pay for them.
  56. Replies
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    1,692

    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    Both sell alcoholic fragrances.
  57. Re: Would you ask this guy what fragrance he's wearing?

    You make some pretty odd assumptions, based simply on appearance.
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    Re: Help with Shalimar

    Shalimar is a shadow of its older self. It used to be magnificent, Alas no longer.
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    Re: A self promoting thread

    Just noticed this; very well done.
  60. Re: Would you ask this guy what fragrance he's wearing?

    But you had enough time to take his photograph. How did that go down? Or did he not realise.
  61. Re: As most fragrances nowadays are just chemical compositions and chemical reformulations

    "Toujors", please do not apologise about anything; you are under no obligation to reply at I am grateful that you do. I have no doubt that you have unpleasant symptoms, and that you believe you...
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    Re: True Priority

    Mix thoroughly, chill, leave in the cold, and filter. Maturing occurs whilst you are leaving the fragrance in the cold. Sorry to disagree with the above; that's how I was taught, and that's how I...
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    Re: Formulating Allergy Warning

    Depends on dosage.
  64. Re: As most fragrances nowadays are just chemical compositions and chemical reformulations

    No "Toujours" that will do. Thank you for being straight forward and answering my questions as honestly as you think you have. I believe you when you tell me what you believe although I don't...
  65. Re: Need your Opinion- Should I Offer Robertet Naturals for Presale Perfumer Supply House

    Robertet products are always very interesting and usually of high quality.
  66. Re: As most fragrances nowadays are just chemical compositions and chemical reformulations

    "Toujours" thank you for your reply, not in the least soporific. Just a few more questions, if you don't mind. You say that you don't know which chemicals you react badly to, but you feel that "I...
  67. Re: As most fragrances nowadays are just chemical compositions and chemical reformulations

    Why I am replying to you when you are so rude, I don't know, but I shall. Maybe it is because I am not rude. The reason I asked was because I wanted to know what people on this site thought, and...
  68. Re: Single notes, soliflores and the search for simplicity...

    Just thought of another soliflore; Bluebell by Penhaligon's
  69. Re: Single notes, soliflores and the search for simplicity...

    No they don't. Calone doesn't smell of tea and is used as part of an "Ozonic" or "Marine" note. Eau d'Isey contains Calone.
  70. Re: As most fragrances nowadays are just chemical compositions and chemical reformulations

    Thank you for your reply. You seem to understand the concept of dialogue on this site.

    So, you react to certain chemicals in a way that most people do not, and as a result have side effects...
  71. Replies
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    Re: Low sillage/longevity on everything

    Seems to me it is you rather than the fragrances. Ask someone else if they can smell what you are wearing. Could be a case of nasal fatigue.
  72. Replies
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    Re: Formulating Allergy Warning

    You do not have to list every allergen that is in your formula; only those that are above the cut off point, and that depends on application and concentration.
  73. Replies
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    Re: Homemade Reed Diffuser

    Have you tried measuring an evaporation curve yet? Take a Reed Diffuser fragrance that you know works, and compare it at 20.0% in Dowanols and 20.0% in MMB. But now I am teaching my Grandmother...
  74. Replies
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    Re: Homemade Reed Diffuser

    And eventually you will be left with a sticky mess at the bottom of your container, and clogged reeds.
  75. Re: The best type of alcohol for a spray perfume (my concerns).

    So I assume you do not drink anything alcoholic. Do you eat bread? That will have ethanol in it. Do you eat any carbohydrate? You will produce some ethanol when you metabolise it.
  76. Re: Diluting Vanillin / Ethyl Vanillin Crystals (Aroma Chemicals) and Isolates

    Perfumery is empirical. I have personal experience of using Benzyl Benzoate/Benzyl Alcohol as a suitable solvent for Vanillin in Candles. I assume it would also be suitable for use in FCO. If...
  77. Re: Diluting Vanillin / Ethyl Vanillin Crystals (Aroma Chemicals) and Isolates

    Your inability to grasp the simplest of ideas. You seem to have a problem with understanding simple English sentences. Sorry if I am wrong.
  78. Re: Diluting Vanillin / Ethyl Vanillin Crystals (Aroma Chemicals) and Isolates

    "stylez", as I do not know anything about you, may I conclude that English is not your first language?
  79. Re: Diluting Vanillin / Ethyl Vanillin Crystals (Aroma Chemicals) and Isolates

    I have answered this at least three times, so it must be true ( Lewis Carroll ref. there if you can find it). I'm not going to repeat myself anymore. And yes, we get it, you are a beginner.
  80. Re: Diluting Vanillin / Ethyl Vanillin Crystals (Aroma Chemicals) and Isolates

    Benzyl Benzoate/Benzyl Alcohol will probably be soluble in FCO (as it is soluble in Candle wax) and can be used to dissolve Vanillin. That is why I suggested you use it.
  81. Re: Diluting Vanillin / Ethyl Vanillin Crystals (Aroma Chemicals) and Isolates

    Ethanol and fixed oils (e.g. FCO) do not mix. Never use fixed oils together with Ethanol.
  82. Replies
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    Re: Homemade Reed Diffuser

    You are quite right Chris I do disagree with you over the use of DPG in a Reed Diffuser. However, to each his own, and if it works for you then do it.

    Good ideas to use aromachems as a solvent;...
  83. Re: Diluting Vanillin / Ethyl Vanillin Crystals (Aroma Chemicals) and Isolates

    Use Benzyl Benzoate/Benzyl Alcohol as your solvent. Try a 1.0% solution of Ethyl Vanillin (same as 10.0% solution of Vanillin). Ethyl Vanillin was first used in Shalimar, so it is entirely...
  84. Re: As most fragrances nowadays are just chemical compositions and chemical reformulations

    Can somebody please define "Chemical Sensitivity", I have no idea what it means.
  85. Re: Diluting Vanillin / Ethyl Vanillin Crystals (Aroma Chemicals) and Isolates

    I guess as Ethyl Vanillin is stronger than Vanillin (some folk say 10 times as throng), you can use less and so get less discolouration.
  86. Replies
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    Re: Anosmia and flat spots.

    That seems quite high, but it depends what type of fragrance you were testing.
  87. Re: As most fragrances nowadays are just chemical compositions and chemical reformulations

    But it is so much easier to make things up, rely on hearsay, and dodgy newspaper articles.
  88. Re: Diluting Vanillin / Ethyl Vanillin Crystals (Aroma Chemicals) and Isolates

    To the OP. If all you wish to do is make a mx of Essential Oils with a touch of Vanillin added; why not just mix your Oils and add Vanillin to the mix? Try on a small scale to see if the Vanillin...
  89. Re: Diluting Vanillin / Ethyl Vanillin Crystals (Aroma Chemicals) and Isolates

    Sorry Bill, not true. Ethyl Vanillin discolours just like vanillin. Vanillin and Ethyl Vanillin are as commonly used as each other. They do smell different. Ethyl Vanillin is stronger, and...
  90. Re: Diluting Vanillin / Ethyl Vanillin Crystals (Aroma Chemicals) and Isolates

    I have only ever worked using weights; for everything. I have never worked by volume, although there are many on this site who do so. I guess it is a matter of what you are used to.

    The Benzyl...
  91. Re: Diluting Vanillin / Ethyl Vanillin Crystals (Aroma Chemicals) and Isolates

    So many questions! I'm not going to answer them all, not even a fraction of them. However I will try to answer a few. Here goes.

    Neither Vanillin nor Ethyl Vanillin are skin irritants. A...
  92. Thread: Truffles

    by David Ruskin
    Replies
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    753

    Re: Truffles

    Try activated charcoal, or unfragranced talc; or indeed any fine powder. What you are doing is moving some chemicals from your source (in this case Truffle) to something with a very high surface...
  93. Replies
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    Re: Anosmia and flat spots.

    What exactly do you mean by "flat spot"? During the "flat spot" can you smell nothing at all? If you can smell something, what can you smell and how does it compare with the fragrance minus...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Perfume: The Story of a Murderer

    Read the book; so much better than the film.
  95. Re: Single notes, soliflores and the search for simplicity...

    Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose.

    Avignon.

    Two great examples of single note fragrances.
  96. Replies
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    Re: Perfumers certification

    It isn't necessary to be a certified member of a particular society to become a Perfumer. If you have the ability and willingness to learn, plus the patience, you will do it. Each Perfume...
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    Re: Anosmia and flat spots.

    Compare with and without, dipped at the same time. You must compare to find out the effect.
  98. Replies
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    Re: Mixing fragrance oils and essential oils

    Professional Perfumer's use bases supplied by other houses, and very often they do not know the formula of the base. Providing the supplier has a valid MSDS, providing the base obeys whatever...
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    Re: Anosmia and flat spots.

    I think that you should test the effect of Sandalwood, even if you cannot smell it. Your idea of making up a blend with and without Sandalwood, is just right.

    You can also learn how to smell...
  100. Replies
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    Re: Anosmia and flat spots.

    I can't smell Benzyl Salicylate, but I can tell if it is in fragrance. Two Perfumers I worked with couldn't smell Maltol.
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