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  1. Thread: Ambrette Seed

    by Doc Elly
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    Views
    1,371

    Re: Ambrette Seed

    Adam, Thanks for checking out my blog and website. I agree that a huge amount of mislabeling goes on among suppliers, so one has to be extremely careful. Unfortunately, the mislabeling often starts...
  2. Thread: Ambrette Seed

    by Doc Elly
    Replies
    8
    Views
    1,371

    Re: Ambrette Seed

    I agree that the WL people are good guys, and I buy from them from time to time. Many of their absolutes, like the honey absolute, are diluted with ethanol, making them iffy for me because I like to...
  3. Sticky: Re: DIY Suppliers List ------Editing in progress 12/2013

    Never heard of them, but just took a look. Their prices seem high, if anything. My guess is that they buy from the bulk suppliers, put everything in small containers under their label, and mark up...
  4. Thread: Ambrette Seed

    by Doc Elly
    Replies
    8
    Views
    1,371

    Re: Ambrette Seed

    White Lotus these days can be hit or miss, but they do sometimes have materials that are not available from other sources. I do not recommend their honey absolute, if anyone is considering buying it....
  5. Rickbr, the answer to your question is that I...

    Rickbr, the answer to your question is that I prioritize and compartmentalize. I work exclusively on one type of thing for a little while and then switch to something else. In the end, some things...
  6. Jesse, thank you so much for this excellent...

    Jesse, thank you so much for this excellent interview! It was a real treat getting to meet you and Kristy when you were in Seattle. It's interesting to note that the fragrances I said I was going to...
  7. Replies
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    Re: ethanol absolute 99´5% for perfumes

    Please do NOT use methanol to make perfume. It is toxic.
  8. Sticky: Re: DIY Suppliers List

    When I first started out, I tried using these bulb atomizers for some of my products, but quickly discovered that a certain percentage of them malfunctioned even when using standard ingredients. It...
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    Re: Trouble with perfume alcohol

    Jemscents, Where did you get the statement, "put three single drops together to test for chord"? I never said that, nor have I ever worked with drops or 3-material "chords". As you gain experience,...
  10. Replies
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    Re: The Perfumed Court

    Don't worry. I'm sure you'll get your order from TPC. Mail is slow this time of year. If they've been having some sort of sale, orders are probably piling in and they're filling them as fast as they...
  11. Replies
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    Re: Blue Lotus Export Co.

    Gecko, they were out for a while, then they listed it again, so I placed an order assuming that they actually did have it and would ship it. The only way to contact them is through their website, and...
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    Blue Lotus Export Co.

    I thought it would be worthwhile to report an unfortunate experience with Blue Lotus Export Co. Ltd., located in Thailand. I have some of their blue lotus absolute, purchased a few years ago, and...
  13. Sticky: Re: DIY Suppliers List

    I thought it would be worthwhile to report an unfortunate experience with Blue Lotus Export Co. Ltd., located in Thailand. I have some of their blue lotus absolute, purchased a few years ago, and...
  14. Sticky: Re: DIY Suppliers List

    Using the most expensive materials to start with doesn't seem like the most cost-effective way to learn perfumery. You WILL make some mistakes along the way, so better to make them with inexpensive...
  15. Thread: Orchid

    by Doc Elly
    Replies
    6
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    1,128

    Re: Orchid

    Pablo, one of the things that's interesting about orchid flowers is that they often emit different scents at different stages of development. I've found that when Cattleya alliance orchid buds first...
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    Re: A question about molecule quality

    Yes, quality of single aroma chemicals can vary from one supplier to another. Some molecules degrade (oxidize) over time, resulting in a change in odor. Chemicals can contain trace amounts of...
  17. Sticky: Re: DIY Suppliers List

    I looked at the website too, and not only are the essential oils overpriced (as is usually the case with businesses of this type), the prices make no sense. 15 ml of Bergamot EO double the price of...
  18. Thread: Seattle, Wa

    by Doc Elly
    Replies
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    5,060

    Re: Seattle, Wa

    I've been meaning to mention a new perfume shop that's recently opened in West Seattle, Sweet Anthem Here's one write-up of it. The owner, Meredith Smith, carries her own Sweet Anthem line of liquid...
  19. Replies
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    Re: Best Bottles for Essential Oil Storage

    Even if you work by weight, those pipette guns with the disposable tips are wonderful for filling sample vials!

    All of my materials are in glass or aluminum containers (no orifice reducers or...
  20. Replies
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    Re: creatingperfume.com

    I have no experience with them, but I looked at their website a little bit. All of their essential oils and absolutes are diluted (they don't say with what, or by how much!), so I would advise you...
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    Re: Maybe an uncommon question

    Since I've been making perfume, I've hardly ever had a cold. Maybe inhaling the scents has a protective effect.
  22. Sticky: Re: DIY Suppliers List

    Real neroli is obtained from orange blossoms. It takes about 1000 kg of flowers to yield 1 kg of absolute. It's not like orange peel oil, where it only takes about 50 kg and is a by-product of the...
  23. Sticky: Re: DIY Suppliers List

    Probably because it's synthetic or cut with something else. If you investigate, it may be something like 10% neroli in jojoba oil, which won't work for perfume making. I think Wellington is OK if you...
  24. Replies
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    Re: Diluting Frankincense

    That's too bad. It seems there are fewer and fewer reliable sources left for good natural materials. New Directions has been off my preferred list of places to buy from for a while, and will be even...
  25. Replies
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    Re: Help: Need a sticky on perfume accords

    If you're looking for specific "public domain" accord formulas (e.g., Jasmine, hyacinth, leather, etc.), you can find quite a few on the Perfumers Apprentice website. You can also find quite a few on...
  26. Replies
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    Re: Help naming my niche brand/line...

    Chris is right. It doesn't matter what you call your company. You can call it Opossum or Marsupial or Apostle or Apostel, or use your own name. What matters are the perfumes (and other products) that...
  27. Thread: Wasabi?

    by Doc Elly
    Replies
    4
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    621

    Re: Wasabi?

    Making an alcohol infusion from the dried root would be one way to go, but I would be very careful about using wasabi/horseradish in a perfume, even for your own use, since it's a skin irritant.
  28. Re: How Many Years Will a Bottled Fragrance Last?

    When buying from E-Bay I'd worry more about the trustworthiness of the seller than the condition of the perfume (assuming it's the real deal). The vintage Guerlains I've tried (some 50+ years old,...
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    Re: Liqours as part of a frag

    If you want to go the aroma chemical route on the "rum", you could start with ethyl propionate and/or ethyl heptanoate. The "bay" part is an essential oil.
  30. Re: Silly question: Can you make perfumes out of genuine attars?

    Why not? True attars are really just essential oils distilled into a sandalwood carrier, so they're simply a combination of sandalwood and some other oil. However, it's getting harder and harder to...
  31. Replies
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    Re: Molecule 01 : is it THAT simple ?

    ^^This.^^

    Yes, it really is that simple. Many aromachemicals smell good by themselves, in dilution.
  32. Replies
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    Re: Brand new to the Forum

    On the Perfumer's Apprentice website, go to "shop for perfume making supplies". Under "categories" at the top, go to "Perfume Creation". Click on "Bases and Blends". You will get a list of ready-made...
  33. Re: The Perfume Diet: The Surprising Joys of Sensual Indulgences

    Excellent article. Thanks for the link!
  34. Replies
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    Re: Brand new to the Forum

    The Perfumer's Apprentice has some basic formulas that might provide a starting place, although you might have to tweak them a lot for candlemaking. I'm not big on kits, so my own approach would be...
  35. Thread: Coconut

    by Doc Elly
    Replies
    7
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    1,145

    Re: Coconut

    To me, massoia EO smells like rancid coconut oil, so I'm not sure that's the scent you're going for. You'd be better off with the aldehyde C-18 and bicyclononalactone combo mentioned by Wooznib....
  36. Re: problems with scale - drops / drops - scale

    No two drops are the same, no matter how hard you try to make them uniform, so this is a highly inaccurate way of measuring. It's not surprising that the weights were different each time you weighed...
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    Re: Aroma accord or aromachemical ?

    I assume you really mean accords and not fragrance oils, which are really perfumes that have been diluted. You may already use them in your soap and lotions, which is what they're designed for....
  38. Replies
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    Re: Perfume - how to improve longevity?

    Unless you are dead set on making an all-natural perfume, my suggestion for increasing longevity would be to add some aroma chemicals. For example, you can use a basic synthetic rose accord, then add...
  39. Replies
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    Re: Why an Absolute?

    I think the bottom line is that if you're going to make an alcohol or oil-based perfume, whatever you use has to be soluble in these solvents. Vanilla absolute and oleoresin are only partially...
  40. Re: Is there a technical set of measures for the duration of particular aromachemicals?

    I second The Good Scents Company as a source for information of the sort you want, but the best strategy is to do your own testing on each new material that you acquire. Try it on paper and see how...
  41. Re: using the right solvent in the right material

    You have to filter the sediments and/or precipitates out. Color can stay as it is. There's nothing wrong with perfume having a little color.
  42. Thread: Salty scent?

    by Doc Elly
    Replies
    8
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    1,049

    Re: Salty scent?

    Seaweed absolute will be helpful (though very expensive), or you can make your own tincture if you have access to seaweed such as Fucus species, which is what the absolute is made from. I don't know...
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    Re: Please help me out with my fragrance!

    Once a fragrance is diluted, regardless of what you dilute it with, you can't make it stronger unless you add more of the perfume material. Yes, you have to live with the DPG. You can further dilute...
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    Re: Airport Duty Free

    It seems to me that prices in the duty-free shops are actually higher than for the same items in brick-and-mortar shops in the country where the airport is located. This is true even in European...
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    Re: Where to find quality Fruit essential oils?

    It looks like this company just makes lotions, liquid soap, and other products that can incorporate a large amount of water-soluble materials. If their "all-natural" hype is true, then water-soluble...
  46. Sticky: Re: DIY Suppliers List

    I'm not sure what you mean by "true to scent". Are you looking for fragrance oils that smell like what they're supposed to (e.g., "rose" FO that actually smells like rose)? Hardly any of them do, no...
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    Re: University Classics project.

    Interesting project you have there!

    Some time back I made a reconstruction of kyphi, based on comparison of a number of different ancient formulas, so you might want to read about that. Since you...
  48. Re: Recently Just Realized that I've Fallen Down the Perfumed Rabbit Hole

    Heed Master-Classter's advice, which is right on target.

    Ever since I can remember I've been hooked on perfume, starting with smelling and wearing my mother's perfumes when i was a little kid. I...
  49. Re: Your experience with benzoin and other sticky resin EOs...

    I've found that there's a huge amount of variability in benzoin from different vendors. Most are OK, but I had one that was really hard to get into solution, made the mix cloudy, and smelled "off". I...
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    Re: making pure perfume?

    Carol, you're correct that you mix the oils first to make your concentrate, then dilute with alcohol. For odor descriptions, try the TGSC Perfumer's Search database.

    The best way to evaluate your...
  51. Replies
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    Re: Snowdrift vs. Save on Scents - alcohol

    Interesting. I haven't used SOS's perfumer's alcohol, but this is good to know.

    I have no idea what the issue is with dissolving oils - it's 95% ethanol just like Snowdrift's. It must have to do...
  52. Replies
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    Re: Any advice on labelling fragrances?

    I use waterproof vinyl labels that I design in Photoshop to fit the size and shape of my bottles, and print on my printer. For small sample vials I use clear labels. If you have a decent printer you...
  53. Re: Exactly what are 'minis'? Are they as good as reg size Perfume?

    I like minis because they contain a quantity of perfume that I might actually be able to use over the next 20 years, and they're relatively affordable. I wish all perfumes were sold by the tola...
  54. Thread: Rei Rien?

    by Doc Elly
    Replies
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    3,780

    Re: Rei Rien?

    I liked Rei Rien, too. It seems strange that they just disappeared all of a sudden without letting anyone know. You'd think that if they went out of business, they would at least try to sell off...
  55. Re: New article on vibration hypothesis of sense of smell.

    Not everyone. I have friends who seem to enjoy the rotten smell of certain cheeses!

    Problems with scientific interpretation arise when people are too wedded to a single hypothesis and interpret...
  56. Replies
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    Re: Sequoiadendron giganteum.

    Interesting article about the albinos. I've tried CdG Sequoia, and found it to be woody (a bit like cedar) and resinous. I think it does a pretty good job of evoking the wood and leaves of the...
  57. Replies
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    Re: where i can buy heliotropin?

    I got heliotropin from The Good Scents Company. I don't know if they still sell it, but obviously there might be issues with importing it. I haven't tried the replacer.
  58. Replies
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    Re: Anyone ordered from New Directions?

    It seems this is a zombie thread that's been resurrected from 2007. However, since it was, I will say that Liberty Natural is my default source for natural materials. What I can't get from there I...
  59. Re: Begginers Questions - First DIY attempt today

    You should be able to clean a glass beaker easily with hot water and detergent. If that's not enough, use some alcohol or acetone. Usually the soap and water is enough. Storage bottles usually cannot...
  60. Replies
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    Re: add "sparkle" to green scent

    Labienoxime is very strong and has a sort of "cat piss" scent that's really not as bad as it sounds. It's reminiscent of certain kinds of evergreens, especially the fresh leaves of some kinds of...
  61. Replies
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    Re: What scent will you wear for Christmas?

    I'll probably wear one of my own when I go to the in-laws' for dinner, but trying my sample of SSS's Tabac Aurea sounds like a good idea, too, so I might do that earlier in the day.
  62. Replies
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    Re: Winter Air Smell

    Gido, no, but I wish I did! I thought there was going to be a group buy on Yahoo, but nothing ever seemed to come of it. John Walsh is supposed to sell it.
  63. Replies
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    Re: Hay absolute, YUM!

    Hay absolute really isn't difficult to work with, at least not in my experience, and is quite versatile. I've used it together with tobacco, coumarin and some green and floral notes in my perfume...
  64. Thread: Ambrette Seed

    by Doc Elly
    Replies
    8
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    1,371

    Re: Ambrette Seed

    Nutty, yes. Cherry, no.
  65. Replies
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    Re: kenzo perfumes

    I don't know, but I would be very surprised if Kenzo used 100% natural materials in any of their perfumes.
  66. Replies
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    Re: Question about absolutes and dilution

    What he says. ^^

    I generally don't dilute before formulating, unless materials are solid, excessively viscous, or excessively strong, but others do. It's simply a matter of preference. Keep in...
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    Re: need some advice about tincturing:)

    If you're going to do tincturing, you should invest in a good quality mortar and pestle to grind up your materials. The finer they are, the more surface area will be exposed to the alcohol, and the...
  68. Replies
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    Re: Winter Air Smell

    I know exactly the smell that you mean. I think your best bet for starters would be to combine a light ozonic aromachem like helional with a touch of an earthy material like geosmin, if you can get...
  69. Re: Should you wear a fragrance for yourself of for the ladies?

    It's a myth that women are going to be attracted to you because of your fragrance. We're not moths with three neurons that cause us to blindly follow a pheromone trail to its source. However, women...
  70. Replies
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    Re: What do I do with it?

    What I do is heat some water in a bowl in the microwave so that it is very warm (don't boil it!) and submerge the bottom part of the bottle containing the absolute. It should become pourable so you...
  71. Replies
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    Re: hope these help...

    Looks like the first site just has fragrance oils that are knockoffs of commercial perfumes. The second one seems to have fragrance oils too, as well as essential oils at a big markup. I wouldn't go...
  72. Thread: Ambrette Seed

    by Doc Elly
    Replies
    8
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    1,371

    Re: Ambrette Seed

    Not that I've noticed.
  73. Re: Any experience with Strange Invisible Perfumes?

    I was given samples of several of the SIP perfumes and find most of them, including Magazine Street) heavy on the ambrette. If you like ambrette (which I do), they're very nice, but if you don't,...
  74. Thread: scent of salt

    by Doc Elly
    Replies
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    4,833

    Re: scent of salt

    I think the OP is looking for natural materials, not aroma chemicals. The calone-type aromachems are not "salty", they are "fresh/ozonic", which is quite different, IMO. Aromachems that in some way...
  75. Thread: Fig Accord

    by Doc Elly
    Replies
    41
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    4,066

    Re: Fig Accord

    Yes, this is it, if you want a fresh fig scent. Stemone is a useful material.
    L'Artisan's Premier Figuier is more like dried figs, which have a more sugary, woody, and waxy smell.
  76. Replies
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    Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    Vincent, first of all, $4 for a sample vial is not "free or very inexpensive". $10 for 3-5 ml is actually a cheaper price per ml, so a much better deal if you plan to use it all. If the "tiny sample...
  77. Re: has anyone ordered ols from this co? they sell so many rare oils but they dont have descriptions

    I'm not in UK, so would not have ordered from them, but I did take a look at their website. I'm not sure why you say there is no description of their oils. For each product they do provide the...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Looking for some help with Ozone scent

    My favorite "rain-hitting-dry-earth" natural material is mitti distilled into vetiver. There's also mitti attar, but that's in sandalwood, so is even more expensive. Calone and other similar...
  79. Replies
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    Re: fragrances and health

    +1
    Anything can be bad for you if taken to excess, and there are far worse things to worry about than a little perfume if you feel the need to worry. Think of the wars, famines, diseases, and...
  80. Replies
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    Re: Does Vanilla Absolute Dissolve in DPG?

    Things that are soluble in water are often soluble in DPG. That's one of the nice features of DPG. Just try a little bit of your absolute in DPG and see if it dissolves.
  81. Replies
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    Re: The Great Unwashed

    The US is a massive set of contradictions. Many people have a phobia about perfumes (they claim to be allergic or otherwise badly affected) and yet those same people innundate themselves with...
  82. Replies
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    Re: The Jean Carles Method

    I admit that I don't have the patience and methodical/compulsive nature to go through a full set of trials as prescribed by Carles. I always start out with a mental image of the scent that I want to...
  83. Re: just recieved my absolutes in perfumers alcohol.. has anyone worked with these? plus my rough id

    Most absolutes are not difficult to work with if you heat them a little, just as you say you do with the labdanum. You can then make up whatever % dilution you need, in whatever solvent you prefer. I...
  84. Re: just recieved my absolutes in perfumers alcohol.. has anyone worked with these? plus my rough id

    I'm not sure I understand your question. Are the absolutes that you received pre-diluted in alcohol, or did you dilute them?
  85. Replies
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    Re: What would happen if...

    If you're adding tolu balsam (real or reconstruction) to a ready-made fragrance, my guess is that it wouldn't have a whole lot of effect.
  86. Replies
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    Re: Oakmoss Substitutes and Synthetics

    Just my opinion, but I have the Oakmoss Givco and find that it doesn't smell anything like real oakmoss. It's disappointing.
  87. Re: newbie here wanting to try my hand at creating a blend like l'occitaine amber:) any tips?

    So you're in UK? Sounds like your sources are reputable, so no special worries there. At some point you might find it interesting to get some pure ambrette absolute to compare with your botanical...
  88. Re: newbie here wanting to try my hand at creating a blend like l'occitaine amber:) any tips?

    Since you're a "newbie" to perfume-making, here are my 2 cents worth:

    The fact that you have experience with EOs in aromatherapy will help a lot, but the learning process still involves plenty of...
  89. Replies
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    Re: caramel, burned sugar accord.

    Homofuranol will give you that "burnt sugar" scent you're looking for. Maltol or ethyl maltol gives more of a "cotton candy" note. I expect that these could form the basis of the accord that you're...
  90. Replies
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    Re: Looking for a natural tea scent

    Clary sage does not smell like tea to me, it smells like clary sage. There are black and green tea absolutes and extracts, but they do not really smell like the synthetic "tea" scent that everyone is...
  91. Re: Could we use oleoresins instead of essential oils?

    Tell that to the people who make sports/arthritis rubs that contain capsaicin.

    The answer to the question is, "it depends". I have some Bourbon vanilla oleoresin that smells wonderful when...
  92. Replies
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    Re: Online article: 13 Awful-Smelling Fragrances

    Yep, Badgley Mischka here, too. Must be sponsored by them.

    Given the odd and limited options on the "quiz" (all of my responses would have been "none of the above"), it's not surprising that...
  93. Replies
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    Re: The Great Unwashed

    For me, a big part of the attraction of showering and bathing is that it's an enjoyable experience. It feels wonderful to have some hot water on my body, especially if I've been running or working...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Fragrance Research - What do you want most?

    I grow orchids commercially and have been making perfumes based on orchid fragrances. You are right - orchid fragrances are absolutely amazing, and the amount of diversity is mind-boggling. The...
  95. Re: Please can anyone suggest some lifting notes for a special blend?

    Gido, I buy pipette tips in bulk -I think they're about $15 for 1000, but this is in the US. The ones in the cases are a bit more expensive, but I found it worthwhile to get one batch that way...
  96. Re: Please can anyone suggest some lifting notes for a special blend?

    I got my "pipettemen" from Daigger. I don't know if they are in UK or not, but they're cheaper than Pipetteman and work just as well.
  97. Re: Someone from Germany - Im trying to buy a beautiful perfume in Germany from the UK - can you hel

    All I can say is that you were very lucky to get your perfume after paying the seller twice. It's the right bottle with the right label - is it the right perfume?
  98. Re: How do I learn to detect individual notes in a fragrance?

    One way to start learning natural scents without any financial layout is simply to go to a store that has testers of essential oils and sniff them. You can learn a lot that way. Another way is to go...
  99. Replies
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    Re: Measuring ingredients for perfume

    It doesn't matter if you measure by weight or volume as long as you do it the same way each time, i.e., don't measure by volume one time and weight the next, or mix the two methods unless you write...
  100. Re: Interested in trying Mysore Sandalwood oil as a fragrance, what to expect?

    Santalum spicatum is Australian sandalwood, a different species from Santalum album, which is what Mysore (and Indian sandalwood in general) is. Australian sandalwood doesn't smell anywhere near as...
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