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  1. Re: Methyl heptine carbonate methyl octine carbonate

    Thanks, Jamie. I guess I'll just have to order MOC, MOC Replacer, and MHC. I like Violettyne MIP so far. Regarding Ethyl Decine Carbonate, maybe someone will start selling small quantities soon. I...
  2. Re: Methyl heptine carbonate methyl octine carbonate

    Now which of these products smells best? Which would you all use if the IFRA didn't exist? I'm guessing that it would be the restricted ones. After all, the best things in life always seem to get...
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    Re: Bertrand Duchaufour's Greatest Fragrance

    Reading this makes me realize how little of his work I've tried.
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    Re: Bertrand Duchaufour's Greatest Fragrance

    Such a great iris fragrance, apparently known to contain cypriol, one of Duchaufour's favorite ingredients.
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    Re: Bertrand Duchaufour's Greatest Fragrance

    I used to have a bottle of that one and especially liked the Istanbul theme, that great city astride Europe and Asia.
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    Bertrand Duchaufour's Greatest Fragrance

    Now first of all, I have not tried all of Bertrand Duchaufour's fragrances, but I have tried many. The one I consider most special is Cipresso di Toscana, which Acqua di Parma scrapped. I've had a...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    It's hard to describe without saying it smells like methyl ionone, hedione, etc. You can definitely smell the individual ingredients once you're familiar with them. Personally, I don't find that...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    And how do you feel about the Tauerade (Ambrox DL + irone alpha)?
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    Re: "Pino" prefix denoted materials???

    I agree. I have a sample of pino acetaldehyde, and it reminds me of alpha pinene. I had a friend smell it and he said it reminded him of a beach house. Anyway, due to its association with the iconic...
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    Re: Karmawood vs. Norlimbanol

    Karmawood is a liquid and Norlimbanol, a solid. Norlimbanol readily melts, so I guess it doesn't make a huge difference.
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    Re: Masterpieces of functional perfumery

    According to this commercial, Air Wick perfumers compose their products in beautiful country residences.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHbXz5zLmu0
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    Re: Masterpieces of functional perfumery

    A friend from the Emirates showed me this oud fabric softener. I think it's as close as you're going to get for now :-)
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    Re: Masterpieces of functional perfumery

    How would you feel if one of your favorite perfumers composed the perfume for a laundry detergent? I think that would be really interesting.
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    Re: Masterpieces of functional perfumery

    I can see why it be difficult to associate a toilet cleaner with artistic beauty and regard its fragrance as a masterpiece, but with other products I don't see why not.
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    Re: Masterpieces of functional perfumery

    So that's why it happens! I have read that certain perfume materials pass right through their plastic containers depending on the density of the plastic, the nature of the chemicals, and other...
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    Re: Masterpieces of functional perfumery

    My fault, hednic. I wasn't very clear.
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    Re: Masterpieces of functional perfumery

    That's too bad.
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    Re: Masterpieces of functional perfumery

    You have a good point there.
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    Re: Masterpieces of functional perfumery

    I know it must sound a bit crazy, but I think it's a valid question; after all, people do have strong feelings about their functional products, and some of them become classics. Also, composing a...
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    Re: Masterpieces of functional perfumery

    Laundry detergent, deodorant, shampoo, floor cleaner, etc.
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    Masterpieces of functional perfumery

    What are some of the great masterpieces of functional perfumery? Who are the noses behind them?
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    Re: Increasing sea impression of Ambrox

    Maritima smells like exposed marsh beds at low tide, and it's the most extreme in my opinion. Veramoss would probably help too. Coniferous notes seem to find their way into marine accords since pines...
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    Re: Working with Opoponax

    I used to have some opoponax absolute. It was great. After diluting in ethanol (at the time I hadn't considered benzyl benzoate), it had an off note for just the first few seconds of evaporation,...
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    Re: Woods / Kephalis

    I find that it smells like a house under construction; well, that's one of its notes. The plaster note mentioned above is probably what I'm smelling, and I find it very pleasant. This is definitely...
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    Re: Blackberry note

    Thanks, Paul. I had no idea they sold stuff, which is why I was so confused.
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    Re: Blackberry note

    I'm sorry, but who is selling a blackberry base?! Where do I place an order?
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    Re: Blackberry note

    I found a study of the volatile constituents of two blackberry brands, Black Diamond and Marion. Here's the gist of it and a link to the study:

    Odour-activity value was further calculated to...
  28. Re: So "Pierre Montale" doesn't even exist and isn't even an original French company..

    The revelation that a perfumer specializing in oud is actually an Arab operating out of the Arabian Peninsula (the world capital of oud) would only make them look more authentic.
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    Re: Plum Note / Accord

    Great post, Paul. Thanks a lot. I just went ahead ordered some Prunella, and one of these days I hope to get my hands on the elusive benzaldehyde.
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    Re: Plum Note / Accord

    Now that you have worked with plum for a while, are there particular bases and materials that you like best? I just got Pyroprunat in the mail and was pleasantly surprised (fruity chemicals usually...
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    Re: Hydrocarboresine (A Biolandes base)

    Great product! Mine arrived two days ago, and if I could have just one incense ingredient, it would be this.
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    Re: Perfumerbook.com by Glen O. Brechbill

    I agree. One can learn about composition from his formulas.
  33. Thread: Perfumebook

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Perfumebook

    The book is probably made up of both his own material and content he has compiled from other sources. If you read through the formulas you'll eventually come across words in Portuguese such as hexil...
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    Re: Jubilation XXV

    GC tests definitely don't catch everything, but even a rudimentary analysis such as the one we're discussing is sufficient for educational purposes. At any rate, there's undoubtedly oud in there, be...
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    Re: Jubilation XXV

    A well-composed perfume deserves to command a high price whether it's loaded with synthetic musks or frankincense from Sultan Qaboos bin Said's private reserve. I still plan to replace my bottle of...
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    Re: Jubilation XXV

    Note the presence of cypriol.
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    Re: Cigar base note

    I definitely smell lots of cedar too, but for some reason, I immediately thought "cigars" when I smelled it out of the bottle.

    Be that as it may, I like the oil a lot.
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    Re: Cigar base note

    Robertet's Wood 49 smells like cigar smoke. It reminds me of my father, who smokes them constantly. http://perfumersupplyhouse.com/product/wood-49-essential-oil/
  39. Thread: Farnesol

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Farnesol

    Farnesol reminds me of hexyl salicylate.
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    Re: sudden Galaxolide anosmia

    Alright, I finally got around to trying it in dilution and as part of an accord. At 10% in ethanol I could smell it again, albeit faintly. I also blended it with some Vertenex, and the result was...
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    Re: sudden Galaxolide anosmia

    I had a similar experience with raspberry ketone. I bought a vial from PA and could hardly smell the stuff, so I lost interest in it. Months later a friend was having problems with bed bugs, and...
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    Re: sudden Galaxolide anosmia

    The second batch was 100% and from the same supplier as my original purchase. This new one is 50% in IPM from PA. Having read Nizan's Okoumal thread and your suggestions here, I realize that I need...
  43. Thread: Azarbre?

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Azarbre?

    I just placed an order on CP and wish I had seen this thread. Next time.
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    Re: New here, diy mens scent and shopping

    And for a relatively simple formula that's sufficiently masculine to meet your requirements, you could always try a traditional eau de cologne. Bear in mind that this genre is mostly top notes and...
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    Re: New here, diy mens scent and shopping

    Since you have a bunch of key accords, make the most of them by studying their formulas (all are found on the PA site). After all, those accords are originally meant as practice exercises for...
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    sudden Galaxolide anosmia

    Back when I started trying to make perfume a couple of years ago, Galaxolide was among the first chemicals I bought, and I could easily smell it at the time. Having run out about 4 or 5 months ago, I...
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    Re: waxy notes in rose otto bases

    I'll take your suggestion and give alcohol C-10 a try. Thanks again.
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    Re: waxy notes in rose otto bases

    Thank you, Paul. I hope all is well with you.
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    waxy notes in rose otto bases

    I have always enjoyed the waxy notes in both natural rose otto and the base Dorinia SA E. How could I get that kind of effect? I have of course done some research and ordered a few raw materials such...
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    Re: Gamma Methyl Ionone

    Genius.

    Do you dabble in ionones?
  51. Replies
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    Re: Gamma Methyl Ionone

    What I said above was a general statement and had nothing to do with the information set forth in this thread. There are many ionones, and whether or not there is a CAS number provided, they can be a...
  52. Re: There's a good chance I have a 30ml bottle of mysore Sandalwood oil. Now whar

    It's hard to imagine that there was a time when you could lavishly splash on all the sandalwood oil you wanted.
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    Re: Gamma Methyl Ionone

    Ionone alert!

    Today I noticed that methyl ionone gamma pure (IFF) is being sold here: http://www.creatingperfume.com/methyliononegammapureisonaline95.aspx

    While these ionone products are...
  54. Re: Comme des Garcons - Zagorsk vs. Andy Tauer - Incense Extreme

    What it could mean is that Zagorsk actually has frankincense in it. It's highly probable (although I don't know for sure) that they both have a relatively large amount of Iso E. Tauer uses Indian...
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    Re: My Top 5 Worst of the Worst Fragrances

    Brut is a classical fougère! How dare you!
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    Re: Carrot intead of Iris in perfume industry?

    deleted
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    Re: Carrot intead of Iris in perfume industry?

    Alpha-isomethyl ionone. Same stuff is in Dzongkha too, and it's the chemical responsible for the lipstick note in both.
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    Re: Gardenia note

    I have not personally done a gardenia, but you might first have a look at some demo formulas. I found this one through Good Scents:


    Fragrance Demo Formulas
    Gardenia 1
    Generic
    For Fragrance...
  59. Re: Designer "Type" Scents from The Fragrance Shop: Anybody Have Experience With These?

    I don't agree with the statements they make on their site about alcohol (in quotes below) http://thefragranceshop.com/whats-wrong-with-your-fragrance/

    "The alcohol filler has two main purposes:
    ...
  60. Re: What type bottle for diluting Aroma Molecules?

    Thanks Mumsy
  61. Re: What type bottle for diluting Aroma Molecules?

    Well this is definitely a question for one of the more experienced people here. However, if they all have the same unpleasant odor, it would most certainly have to do with the perfumer's alcohol. By...
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    L'Artisan's Dzongkha has a very similar iris note. Same chemical in that one too.
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    OK, I was in Sephora today and smelled Dior Homme. I then realized that I was wrong about methyl ionone alpha, and so I began to think it would have to be alpha-isomethyl ionone, which would itself...
  64. Re: What type bottle for diluting Aroma Molecules?

    Were they exposed to light? What kind of containers were they in? Some of those are stable; for example, under normal conditions, galaxolide should not have been fried like that. If you want to know...
  65. Re: What type bottle for diluting Aroma Molecules?

    I don't use the dropper bottles either, but they sure would be convenient. I have the disposable plastic droppers, and they're the source of constant problems. I originally put my chemicals in...
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    Re: Madagascar Vanilla Absolute Supplier.

    No, I wondered if your disdain for vanillin was due to its widespread use as a rounding agent, but now I see that you must have been talking about its other uses.
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    Re: Madagascar Vanilla Absolute Supplier.

    Paul,

    Are you talking about its use as a rounding agent? Just curious.
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    Re: DIY Molecule 01/ (With additional scent)

    By the way, DrSmellThis, your own suggestions are good ones too. I was more or less just defending my own suggestion, not trying to refute yours.
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    Re: DIY Molecule 01/ (With additional scent)

    I do see your point there, and I myself have certainly fallen into the trap of using certain raw materials together just because I knew the accord was well established.

    I also remember how it...
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    Re: DIY Molecule 01/ (With additional scent)

    A good place to start would be the Grojsman accord:

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/383874-Grojsman-Accord
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    Ionones are more violet, and irones are more iris. Certain ionones smell more like iris than others. Methyl ionone alpha smells more like iris than something like isoraldeine 95. Irone alpha is, in...
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    Re: When do I use DPG?

    According to Curtis and Williams (2001), DPG is a highly polar compound and therefore a poor solvent for non-polar raw materials such as terpenes and oils rich in terpenes, such as citrus oils. It's...
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    Re: What is in Armani Si?

    This review has a few clues:

    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2013/09/giorgio-armani-si-fragrance-review.html
  74. Replies
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    Thinking back on this thread, I realized that the importance of alpha irone could have been stressed a bit more. At least in my opinion, it is a very straightforward iris note.

    USA:...
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    Re: Stereotypical men's cologne

    Someone at my old job wore 1 Million and that stuff was unbelievably diffusive.
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    Re: Stereotypical men's cologne

    Ambrocenide is great. I hope it doesn't eventually come to be regarded with distaste like DHM.
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    Re: Stereotypical men's cologne

    What Paul and David said is definitely what I would have thought too. If I'm not mistaken, DrSmellThis is thinking of the aromatic fougère. That's at least the name I've heard given to it. I remember...
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    Re: Group buy for GC/MS

    I've re-created a few via GC/MS. What was probably most helpful was the detective work and research that went into analyzing the analysis itself. Now I know quite a bit more than I used to about the...
  79. Thread: Ambreine

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Ambreine

    I came across this thread after reading the following passage from Perfumery: Practice and Principles:

    The Oriental Perfumes: Shalimar, Must de Cartier, Obsession, Youth Dew, Opium, Coco

    The...
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    I can only speak with certainty about methyl ionone alpha. I am 100% confident that it is what the thread starter is looking for.
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    Scroll down and have a look at the ingredients for this Lancome lipstick. There you will see alpha-isomethyl ionone, one of the main ingredients in Paul's formula. Apparently, this is a "retro"...
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    I wish I had seen this thread sooner. I have actually spent a lot of time looking for the iris note I believe you are looking for. After searching for a long time, a very sharp blogger suggested...
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    Re: Help going broke...substitutions ?

    Try this book. If you can only get one, get this. It's probably the closest thing to a comprehensive introduction: http://www.amazon.com/Introduction-Perfumery-Tony-Curtis/dp/096087528X

    This one...
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    Re: Help going broke...substitutions ?

    Givaudan makes a synthetic bergamot that is a lot cheaper than the real thing. I've tried it and it's pretty good: http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-5935-bergamot-g-fragrance.aspx

    As people...
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    the waxiest fragrances

    I love anything that smells waxy. What are the waxiest fragrances?
  86. Re: Guerlain Santal Royal - Harrods Exclusive + other news

    Did you get it at Tysons Galleria?
  87. Replies
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    Re: Iris, Orris, & Orris Root?

    I have recently been trying to find the chemical responsible for the lipstick note in iris fragrances. Now I'm pretty sure it's methyl ionone alpha. It's definitely interesting and worth trying.
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    Re: Ideas for non-citrus topnotes

    Cardamom has a lot of eucalyptol in it, and whenever I use it, it seems to give the top notes lift. I don't know if lift is the right word, but I think you know what I mean. I think the eucalyptol...
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    Re: Ideas for non-citrus topnotes

    Estragole (methyl chavicol) isn't mentioned above. It's the main constituent of tarragon oil. I just got it in the mail, and now I wonder what else I'm missing.

    I must say I've been struggling...
  90. Re: How to disolve orris absolute and orris butter in alcohol by drops???

    That's exactly what my orris looks like now; you could describe it as a waxy slush. I suppose that's what we have to put up with if we want to use that material. Now I see what all the hype is about.
  91. Re: How to disolve orris absolute and orris butter in alcohol by drops???

    Thanks, Paul. I think I'll just have to dilute it further. I really don't like the idea of heating it every time I want to use some. I'm already worried I scorched it the first time.
  92. Re: How to disolve orris absolute and orris butter in alcohol by drops???

    I just warmed some iris CO2 and diluted to 50% in ethanol, but it turned solid again as soon as it cooled. Is that normal? I realize that there might not be a clear answer to this, but how much heat...
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    Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Olibanum Resinoid - I burn a lot of incense. One day a friend told me that there are incense perfumes, which is how my journey into perfumery started.

    Dorinia SA E - Waxy and great all on its own....
  94. Thread: Orris root

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Orris root

    Is orris tincture usually pretty inexpensive? This is the first time I've seen it for sale, and it is quite affordable:
    ...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    I recently read in a textbook that musk ketone in combination with benzyl salicylate creates a powdery effect. I have not personally tried it, however.
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    Re: Interesting sensitizer table

    I definitely see what you mean there. Studies like that are bad for the art of perfumery when they needlessly lead to the reformulation and discontinuation of fragrances, and now I regret posting it....
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    IFF's space rose

    I was browsing the internet and found a chromatogram for "space rose" oil, so I wondered what that was. Apparently, IFF had NASA fly a rose plant into space. They found that the space rose had a...
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    Re: Interesting sensitizer table

    Well, I wasn't fear mongering, but I guess it came across that way. It was simply a matter of finding that study (link provided) interesting and wanting to share it with the Basenotes community....
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    The effect of cardamom on a composition

    Does anyone find that cardamom does more to a composition than merely add a cardamom top note? For example, it seems to me that its effect makes the composition more harmonious and integrated. I...
  100. Replies
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    Re: Interesting sensitizer table

    Yeah, don't wear that stuff on the beach.
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