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  1. Re: para Cresyl Acetate and para Cresyl Phenylacetate

    Another reason why one isn't a substitute for the other: p-cresyl acetate is far more volatile than p-cresyl phenylacetate. One is pretty much a topnote, the other pretty much a basenote (with...
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    Re: New shop for raw materials online!

    Nice website! Good luck with it. Will it be all small sizes for the foreseeable future, or do you plan to offer larger amounts too?
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    Re: Muguet best naturals...

    Yes, I'd use indole. I smelled some lily of the valley flowers last month and I'm sure I could pick up on the indole. Mainly what struck me as part of the scent was citronellol, so maybe look at...
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    Re: Muguet best naturals...

    Ylang, maybe a tiny trace of galbanum, styrax, rose abs. A trace of civet. You could also look at a natural linalool isolate (e.g. ex ho, ex basil) instead of the synth if you were using that...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    I agree it is challenging. I used my "one question" for David on Narcissus! The spicy note really helps, I think. I used Methyl Diantilis, but I have some Methyl iso eugenol ordered which I think...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    Narcissus is dirty. But it depends what you blend the materials with. Have you ever smelled Narcissus poeticus flowers? They are pretty spicy in addition to the cresylic note. Muguet materials help...
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    Re: Hydrocarboresine (A Biolandes base)

    Interesting. I have been curious about some of these so called "pyrogenic" materials too. I haven't tried any of them. There are lots of them out there made from different materials like...
  8. Re: The smell of playdough - can you sniff some for me?

    A bit more on this old thread.
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    Re: Which floralizers do you know?

    Hedione of course, Lilial, Hydroxycitronellal, Benzyl Salicylate, cis-Jasmone...
  10. Re: OH BOY...NEW PSH PRODUCTS! JASMOLACTONE (Firmenich) & a few others

    Brilliant news!!! :) :) :)

    Thanks Christine! You're the best!
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    Do either of you think PCPA smells of stale urine?

    I do, but it is very useful. Lily and narcissus mainly.
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    Re: Possible New Produxts on PSH

    Vetiveryl acetate is made by acetylating (whatever that means!) vetiverol - the alcohol fractions of vetiver oil. So it is derived from the natural material, not synthesized from something else. The...
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    Re: Gamma Methyl Ionone

    I'm curious about "Isoraldeine Cetone Alpha" from Givaudan. Has anyone ever tried it and is it worth seeking out over Isoraldeine 95 for example? I found a price list online which says it's a bit...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    Nizan, I guess you've already heard of Spirogalbanone, a supposedly long lasting galbanum note. I haven't tried it myself but Chris Bartlett has it for sale.

    What para-cresyl types are you using?...
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    Re: Possible New Produxts on PSH

    Yes, good point Bill, thanks.

    Also, I think it's often very tempting for people to buy the more exotic and unusual materials over ones that are maybe less exciting but more useful.
  16. Re: L'Heure Bleue and Apres L'Ondee - dirty almond note...

    Any coumarin in there?

    PS: I would have said heliotropin, but you say you already have that in there. That's what most people associate with play-dough.
  17. Thread: Sweet touch!

    by Renegade
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    Re: Sweet touch!

    This depends on the grade of your Vetiveryl Acetate. Some are quite harsh, dry and earthy smelling. This is why I am wanting to get Vetiveryl Acetate ex Vetiver Haiti (Ventos) available at PSH. I...
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    Re: Possible New Produxts on PSH

    I should say I'm the one who requested these from Christine. I have had samples of both and I think they're both really excellent high quality materials. And the pricing seems very reasonable too.
    ...
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    Re: Recreating Borneo 1834

    jonbar, Have you been able to smell coumarin yet? Have you ever smelled tonka beans (which contain a lot of coumarin)? People are often anosmic to many materials, e.g. benzyl salicylate, musks, woody...
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    Re: IFRA percentages

    You were right first. "Limits in the finished product" refers to the finished diluted perfume in ethanol or whatever its diluted in, ready to use. So if you dilute your perfume concentrate to 10%...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    I can swap A, not sure about B. Looking forward to smelling everyones work. Sounds like they'll all be quite different.
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    Re: Benzyl acetate?!?

    It is what it is!

    So you find it too fruity and sweet for your liking?

    Try it with green notes, for example in a hyacinth accord. Galbanum + Phenylacetaldehyde.
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    Re: SuperGirl perfume making game

    I'm thinking of using Peony as a main note. I think there is plenty of room to push that in a steel/metallic direction. Also, a milky note, as I think there is an ozone/metallic facet to that as...
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    Re: SuperGirl perfume making game

    I have been feeling a bit in over my head lately too, so I'll also go with Option 1. I do normally keep IFRA regs broadly in mind when I'm composing, so we'll see about that one.

    I haven't really...
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    Re: SuperGirl perfume making game

    Well, it's all go around here, isn't it?

    I'd love to participate in this. It will be fun to have freedom over the notes to include. I'll need to have a think about which of the options to go for....
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    These are the two perfumes I would have guessed as well! Although I wasn't sure – I was thinking of Chamade too for Fragrance B, although that seems to have more vanilla and coumarin and other stuff....
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    I think I'm done with Fragrance A. I made up enough to send out a couple of weeks ago and have had it maturing, but I added a bit of Pimento to it over the weekend. I would like to perhaps change the...
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    Re: Can someone identify these ingredients?

    Could it be "Canelle De Laire" (cinnamon)? Is there cinnamon mentioned elsewhere in the formula?
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    Re: Alpha Terpineol

    It just depends on the purity. Lower purity has more of a pine and lime note. High purity, e.g. Lindenol smells more subtle and floral. It still reminds me a little of toilet cleaners though.
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    Re: Alcohol % in small vintage guerlain

    I agree, it will be the alcohol percentage. I have two old Guerlain minis with the percentages written on them: Shalimar parfum (68% vol) and Chamade eau de toilette (87% vol) so I guess the...
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    Re: Smell of Spring in the air :)

    I found out what the pink flowered bush was...

    http://i60.tinypic.com/2a5dg83.jpg

    Blackcurrant!

    It's obvious now when I smell the flowers up close, but I never had the faintest idea that's...
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    Re: How to dirty up my rose accord

    Not a synthetic, but I would recommend adding a little bit of vetiver oil.
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    Re: Smell of Spring in the air :)

    I never really liked spring until I got into perfume (and by extension, plants). I used to find it somehow depressing.

    I'm lucky to have discovered the joy of flowers. Already this year I've had...
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    Re: Pipette blown up by Citral

    I've never bothered with the cotton plug. Do you find it makes much of a difference Chris?
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    I've been working on both fragrances. Fragrance B is definitely proving the more difficult one for me. The narcissus note is tricky. I may need to use my one question for that...

    Fragrance A on...
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    Re: Creating Borneo 1834 from essential oils

    Having dug out my sample of Borneo 1834 the other day, I think one other thing that will probably be important is coumarin. And I wouldn't be too shy with the vanilla side of it either - it seems...
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    Re: Incense Extreme Community Remake

    The longest lasting Frankincense material I've tried so far is Olibanum Couer MD from Ventos, which unfortunately nobody seems to sell in small amounts yet. I was just comparing it last night to the...
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    Re: Anyone know a source for Givaudan Chocovan?

    Well how convenient!

    Givaudan describe it like this: "Chocovan brings a rich cocoa note together with a warm vanillic background created around an overdose of a Givaudan Specialty. It brings the...
  39. Re: Jasmine flower accord , cis jasmone, methyl jasmonate

    Cis-jasmone is also useful in violet fragrances, which if I recall correctly is a particular interest of yours, Milhaus...

    For me it gives a fresh green floral natural effect. It's effective in...
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    Re: Bacon fragrance

    Castoreum might be useful for its sweet, smokey, meaty notes.
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    Re: Anyone know a source for Givaudan Chocovan?

    I had another look at the Scent & Chemistry book and it says Chocovan contains 2,3,5-trimethylpyrazine, which I think would be the same (according to TGSC) as the Trimethyl Pyrazine offered at...
  42. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    OK, got it, thanks. Well good luck to anyone trying to duplicate that!

    I think the woody synths really worked well with your naturals here.
  43. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    Interesting to read the formulas so far, although I only got the rose part of your one Mumsy.

    Cybervoltage, there were some things that surprised me about yours - the traces of aldehydes for...
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    Re: Creating Borneo 1834 from essential oils

    OK, heres what you can glean from the book:

    Patchouli oil - 57%
    Iso E Super - 8%
    Cyperus scariosus oil - 1%
    Oakmoss absolute - 0.5%
    Chocovan - ?%
    Opoponax resinoid - ?%
    Myrrh extract - ?%
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    Re: Creating Borneo 1834 from essential oils

    The Scent & Chemistry book reveals some percentages of the materials used - do you want me to tell you or would you rather figure it out yourself?

    Definitely LOTS of patchouli oil. It also...
  46. Re: Need your Opinion- Should I Offer Robertet Naturals for Presale Perfumer Supply House

    Oh well, thanks for checking. The notes sounded fascinating.

    The Cypriol sounds very interesting too. And the Bigaradier sounds useful.

    I know Proxisanté in France resells some of these. I...
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    Re: The smell of spring?

    I have Narcissus (poeticus) abs from Hermitage and from White Lotus Aromatics. No nosebleeds yet. I must say I don't find either of them particularly strong or long-lasting. I grew the flowers last...
  48. Re: Need your Opinion- Should I Offer Robertet Naturals for Presale Perfumer Supply House

    This one sounds interesting:

    Cedarwood 114 e.o. Fractions
    The Cedarwood Texas essential oil (juniperus mexicana) is redistilled and fractionated in order to bring its Cedrol content below 0,1%...
  49. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    Got cybervoltage's the other day. Thank you cybervoltage. Quite different again from the others, although not without similarities.

    As with some of the others, I noticed a kind of minty effect....
  50. Thread: Ginger?

    by Renegade
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    Re: Ginger?

    I have a little sample too from Christine at PSH but haven't used it much. For me, it smelled spicy like eugenol, but a bit weaker and shorter lived. Not immediately reminiscent of ginger to me, but...
  51. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    I also received mrstrocovie's today via mumsy. Thank you both.

    I'll give my first impressions. I've been smelling it on a strip today and it's really interesting. Quite different to the others...
  52. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    I forgot to say I got ColHP's version yesterday and have been testing it on a strip. Patchouli galore! In a good way. I'm sure there must be a lot more patchouli here than I used in mine. I get a...
  53. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    Thanks for the review Cybervoltage. I would definitely be into sharing formulas here. Lets wait until everyone has smelled each others though. There is actually no eugenol as such in mine, maybe very...
  54. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    I received a nice little box of "humidor sprays" today. And I didn't even know my humidor needed spraying.

    Thank you Mumsy! And you included a sample of the vintage too - I wasn't expecting that....
  55. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    I'll give it a go, thanks. Sounds relaxing at the very least. This cold has been pretty short lived, I'm nearly over it now. Normally they drag on for ages.

    Also, an interesting thing is that...
  56. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    Actually, I'm just getting over a particularly bad cold – maybe it travelled over to you in the envelope! I don't think I ever had a cold as bad – sneezing, headache, fever, shivers, sweating and now...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    Fragrance B sounds nice for spring. The given notes are quite different to those of Zino, so it should be a nice change.

    I'll certainly give it a go. Thanks David!
  58. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    Fancy! :wink: Can't wait to smell it. Knokitoff indeed!
  59. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    "Zino by Renegade" has made it past the post office clerk and is hopefully on the way to the five of you now.
  60. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    Sounds great. OK, I'll go ahead and PM everyone with my address and they can reply with their own. I'm looking forward to smelling all the different interpretations, it should indeed be fun.

    EDIT:...
  61. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    Renegade = Ireland.

    So, 5 people to send samples to - that's not too bad. I'll make mine up today. So we all send each other our samples individually, is that correct?
  62. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    I'll have mine ready to send this week. I've been working on it over the weekend. It doesn't seem quite "finished" yet, but then again some reviews seem to suggest Zino is a bit rough around the...
  63. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    Coumarin is definitely sweet to me, but with a dryness too. I haven't yet used any replacements or alternatives to coumarin, although I know there are some offered.

    For me, it doesn't smell...
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    Re: New Baby Smell

    Maybe you could track down some Baby Oil? Although I doubt it's distilled any more these days. And if it is, it's normally from the more unpleasant smelling babies that no one wants.
  65. Re: Recs please for a newbie that wants to give her sandalwood it's just due +

    Good sandalwood oil, to me, is pretty subtle - especially when diluted. So if you don't want to wear it pure, or don't have enough to do that, then I would be very careful with your blend, keep it...
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    Re: A Message To Our Community

    BA, I have no problem with what you're doing at all. I don't think it's for selfish reasons and even if I did I wouldn't care. I have nothing against entrepreneurship. And like I said, now that I see...
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    Re: A Message To Our Community

    OK, just had a look. $4.99 isn't that bad actuallly. I'm such a cynic.
  68. Replies
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    Re: A Message To Our Community

    $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $

    Sorry, but I like it here just fine. Good luck to you though.
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    Re: Stereotypical men's cologne

    And now the new stereotype in mens fragrance seems to be dry woody types like 1 Million, Invictus, Bleu de Chanel. They all remind me of airport duty free shops.
  70. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    Sorry I haven't been posting on here when I said I'd join in. I'm disgustingly lazy.

    I did make one version when we began; not bad but too sweet and powdery. I made another yesterday and I still...
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    Re: Linalool - A Flavor Perspective

    Wow, a versatile material indeed. I have thought to myself before how versatile it is in perfumery, especially with floral bases like honeysuckle, lily, orange flower, even carnation, jasmine,...
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    Re: Where to get perfumers alcohol online

    First of all, I'm sorry if my tone seemed mocking. I don't doubt that this is a good source and I applaud you for taking the time to share it.

    I was just amused, surprised (and perhaps even...
  73. Re: First ever perfume finished with a crimped bottle......

    Looks great, and I like the colour of the perfume too. Lucky daughter!
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    Re: Apologies to DIY

    Great to have you back here Saponier, and I'm glad you're starting to feel a bit better. We all had so much fun smelling the materials you kindly sent and I hope you'll enjoy your return to Fragrance...
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    Re: Arctander Perfume and Flavor Chemicals

    Yikes, that's a lot of pages to copy.

    I have the second volume only (K-Z). I saw it on Alibris listed for something like $35. The listing didn't specify that it was only for the second part, but I...
  76. Thread: Safranol

    by Renegade
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    Re: Safranol

    I think you're thinking of safrole, a different chemical.
  77. Thread: Safranol

    by Renegade
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    Re: Safranol

    You probably mean safranal (not -ol). I would like to know more about this myself as I love the smell of saffron. It's limited to 0.005 % of a finished fragrance by IFRA - I wonder if it has much of...
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    According to the Scent & Chemistry book, "Dior Homme" contains "0.25% of the most expensive orris root absolute", while "Iris Silver Mist" contains 4.5% of orris butter.
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    Re: Lime / Vanilla Fragrance

    Expressed lime oil will give you a much more natural lime zest note as compared to the boiled sweets effect of the distilled oil.
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    I don't think you do; just money. If you want to familiarise yourself with the smell of orris root you can buy dried root online in many places and if it's good quality it should have the distinctive...
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    And the absolute should be even more expensive than the butter.
  82. Replies
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    Where did you get it and how much did it cost?
  83. Poll: Re: Which BASE note do you think smells best with vanilla?

    With all due respect, may I ask why you want to know? Are you doing market research?
  84. Replies
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    Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Mine are all kind of old-fashioned:

    Jasmine Abs (Officinale) - For its deep fruity indole notes and the richness it gives even in small amounts.

    Civet Tincture - An "ancient" smell, very...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    Glad you liked it! I agree, it's a must have reference material.

    I must get some of those other materials myself. That costus oil is expensive though (it generally is, I think). I have some...
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    Re: Blind nose training: wrapping it up!

    That's very interesting about your 6-methylquinoline, Irina. I have to say, before I bought this material I was expecting something much more animalic and dirty myself. When I read the description on...
  87. Replies
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    Re: Blind nose training: wrapping it up!

    OK, here we go:

    #176: 6-methylquinoline, 10% in DPG
    #351: Tahitian Vanilla Crystals, 20% in DPG ("Tahitian Vanilla Abs X Natural Vanillin")
    #793: Benzyl Salicylate, Undiluted

    They were not...
  88. Replies
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    Re: Blind nose training: wrapping it up!

    Sadly, I still haven't received any notes from Paul Kiler, Saponier or indeed BAGreat - 3 people out of the 6 that I sent materials to.

    That's a bit disappointing, but I'm sure they all have good...
  89. Replies
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    Re: Blind nose training: wrapping it up!

    How interesting, mumsy, that you picked up on the cherry / almond note in #934 - and even had the same guess as me. When I found out what the material actually was I thought I probably had just...
  90. Replies
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    Re: Blind nose training: wrapping it up!

    OK, I suppose I'll have to post mine myself as well:


    #261


    1. Environment: Small room with a window and a door, no potent odours. Time and date: 23/10/2014, 12:00. Already diluted to 10% in...
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    Re: Variability of Birch tar oil?

    Thanks for sharing your results Pears, absolutely fascinating! Probably not something I'll be trying anytime soon myself, but maybe someday. There must be something like this on the market already -...
  92. Re: My Alcohol Perfume Is Oily Sticking Left On My Skin And Not Drying After Evaporate

    30% is a high concentration; most modern perfumes are far less. DPG won't reduce the oiliness at all, in fact it will simply make it worse. So, if a lower concentration doesn't result in a...
  93. Replies
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    Re: Blind nose training: wrapping it up!

    Most interested. I might even mix it up myself.
  94. Replies
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    Re: Variability of Birch tar oil?

    Interesting question Pears. You have probably read what Arctander has to say about birch tar oil - "...the most interesting components are the non-phenolic ones". I'm not certain whether guaiacol and...
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    Re: Naturals With Great Projection

    Patchouli oil.
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    Re: Where to get perfumers alcohol online

    Just had a look at that website. Not sure if it's genius or insane or a bit of both!

    "Extraction Artists across the globe know the secret, now, so do you."

    "KleenXtract is a revolutionary...
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    Re: is good sandalwood even a thing anymore?

    2.5 hours in and the santalol is a bit more pleasant although still quite plasticky and greasy smelling to me. Not sure I like it by itself. A fresh application reveals the urinous side. Without...
  98. Replies
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    Re: is good sandalwood even a thing anymore?

    I think the Santalol Hermitage sell is from Robertet. I bought 1ml of that and it wasn't as clean and smooth as I expected. I don't know what the purity of it is, but to me it is still a bit phenolic...
  99. Replies
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    Re: Blind nose training: wrapping it up!

    Brilliant! Who knew such different worlds could collide... That is just perfect.
  100. Replies
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    Re: Blind nose training: wrapping it up!

    Just reading your #138 again - Irina says "Swamp thing" while I say "Straight-laced businessman". Quite the difference! I will have to dig that one out again.
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