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    Re: BBC Perfume Documentary - THE VERDICT!

    I've been having troubles getting the IP software to work in France to provide me a British IP to enjoy this video. Would someone be able to record it while it is streamed? Thanks.
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    Re: Luca Turin Fragrance Testing - True?

    You can evaluate fragrances without wearing them (ie. using smelling blotters). I don't "wear" fragrances that much anymore but I evaluate fragrances all day long!
  3. Thread: Ivy notes

    by scentophile
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    Re: Ivy notes

    There is a green ivy givco from Givaudan.
  4. Re: Is reformulation ever better than "vintage"

    The original Fahrenheit was fantastic with an "overdose" of a violet molecule which is now very limited. Without this molecule, you rip the spine of the real fragrance.
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    Re: Price =/= Quality

    Bravo. That's exactly what I wanted to say.
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    Re: Price =/= Quality

    Scentemental's post is interesting but there are so many costs and other levels from A (formula) to Z (wholesaler).

    All that I can say is that I go to a restaurant in France and buy a salad and...
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    Re: Price =/= Quality

    I'm sorry but pricing is not that simple and I think that focusing on the use of iso e super from that angle puts you farther away from the truth. Most fragrances today contain iso e super and...
  8. Re: New game -- spell notes based on your name

    Sandalwood
    Cedarwood Virginia
    Elemi
    Narcissus
    Tomato Leaf
    Opoponax
    Pink Pepper
    Heliotrope
    Iso E super
    Lime
  9. Re: "Getting" a note - enough data points, or the right fragrance?

    Vetiver Extraordinaire from Frederic Malle for me is a decent reference for real vetiver oil, and if my olfactive memory is working well today, the vetiver to Iso E Super (an ambery, cedary "solvent"...
  10. Shalimar in disguise...? What could this be?

    During the Cannes film festival, I went to the Sephora in town (which was actually a bad idea). In the midst of all this distraction, I rushed through probably 8-10 womens fragrances that I was not...
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    Re: Need help from a 'nose' please

    Definitely. Like a good olfactory understanding of camphor/eucalyptol for example will help you distinguish the differences between a handful aromatics that smell very close to each other.
  12. Re: My olfactive review of Givaudan's latest molecule: Cosmone

    Merci beaucoup!
  13. Re: Did Pierre Bourdon create Green Irish Tweed?

    ...
  14. My olfactive review of Givaudan's latest molecule: Cosmone

    I was "late" to smell Cosmone, Givaudan's newest musk made public to the industry, but we say "better late than never." The sample finally arrived at our company...

    Continued here:...
  15. Re: You throw the empty bottle of a perfume to the garbage?

    Honestly, I do not think that even the counterfeiting industry would spend the money to go through garbage to acquire used bottles which they have to remove the atomizer, clean, etc... just for one...
  16. Re: (Noir de )Reminiscence, anyone familiar with it?

    This is a really nice masculine fragrance in terms of innovation. It is different and for me rather "niche." I think you are going to like it if you are open minded!
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    Re: Which scent contains the fewest notes?

    Don't trust the pyramids ;)!
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    Re: Which scent contains the fewest notes?

    There are definitely more than 3 raw materials in Kouros ;).
  19. Re: What's behind certain Guerlain scents "musty" note ?

    There is a noticable overdose of this raw material called linalyl acetate (which is present in bergamot and lavender) used in Guerlain fragrances. It can be added in a formula by itself.
  20. Re: What's behind certain Guerlain scents "musty" note ?

    Surprisingly, it could be lavender.

    Ah it could be the linalyl acetate (from bergamot)!
  21. Re: Silly question... correct pronunciations for...

    This is hard, but I'll try ala French...

    Fehr-meh-nee-shh. Also heard: Fehr-men-ee-shh.

    Jee-vo*-da(w)n. *o as you would say the letter in the alphabet. The last part, you pronounce "dawn",...
  22. Re: NEW: DKNY Men (not to be confused with the old one).

    I really liked it too! It has an interesting top note!
  23. Re: Who agrees we have some industry "sleepers" in our midst.

    I don't know Le Critique, so as to not be part of any bias, but he is one of the few people that "gets" it (though I do not agree with every point that he makes) relative to what he has written about...
  24. Re: Who agrees we have some industry "sleepers" in our midst.

    I'm at work on my lunch break, so I have to make it short. The "industry" is very huge in the sense that it is a long way up to the top. You have the businessmen, marketers, evaluators, sales people,...
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    Re: A fragrant puzzle (solved)

    Solution posted (link above)!
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    Re: IUNX Paris to close?

    I was in Paris this weekend. IUNX has a new boutique on St. Honoré with Costes!!
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    Re: A fragrant puzzle (prize involved)

    It could be for a boy too.
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    Re: A fragrant puzzle (prize involved)

    Scensitivity and surreality, I like where you guys are going with this!

    There are some minor clues in the story as well.
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    Re: A fragrant puzzle (prize involved)

    Hint: the formula can help you find the way.
  30. Replies
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    Re: A fragrant puzzle (prize involved)

    Nice catch. I had noticed detail and changed it on my blog while forgetting to change this detail on basenotes.
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    Re: A fragrant puzzle (prize involved)

    Oh please post here if you are actually going to attempt this puzzle. Thanks!
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    A fragrant puzzle (solved)

    The solution of the puzzle could be found here (http://jaimeleparfum.wordpress.com/2009/04/27/the-puzzle-solved-parisian-pov/) with an explanation to be added.

    Here is the puzzle that I...
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    Re: Mimosa-help please!

    I love mimosa! I live in Grasse and the mimosa season has recently passed. The smell of mimosa is intoxicating and heady. It is a raw material (comes in the absolute form, extracted by solvents in...
  34. Re: Are the classics worth stocking up at this point?

    Pardon (in my best French accent), this is not true. There are plenty of small producers in the outskirts of Paris, Grasse, New Jersey, etc, and I assure you that these groups are working its "magic"...
  35. Re: Are the classics worth stocking up at this point?

    This is such a money post and so true.
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    Re: Pefume Oils: Syria

    Bravo, perfect response. That's all I wanted to say. But now knowing what you want to do (contrasting naturals and synthetics), then I would further like to clamp down on what sculptureofsoul and I...
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    Re: Pefume Oils: Syria

    Dmitri I am glad that we share the point of view about perfumery being an art and being open about the palette - I am sure that we will never have to debate about synthetics vs. naturals which is a...
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    Re: Dior Homme is a masterpiece?

    I believe that it is one of the best releases during this the past 5 years. It has a lovely accord. Masterpiece, old time will tell?
  39. Re: Interesting article on "Endangered Fragrances"

    Regarding L'Heure Bleu: I think that back in the day, oakmoss was not required to be marked on the box as an allergen...
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    Re: Pefume Oils: Syria

    Dimitri, I am sorry if my post seemed to be commanding, descending, or judgmental in terms of the quality of your products. I am reading what I had written and I can see how my tonality might be...
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    Re: Pefume Oils: Syria

    Dimitri,

    Not to be a cynic but chances are that your oils are not 100 percent natural. And I would not suggesting you using them at all if you are using them to create. Get yourself some...
  42. Going to Paris next week. Any Parisian basenoters out there?

    I'm going to Paris next week for the weekend. Are there any Parisian basenoters that want to grab a quick coffee or a sniff at a fragrance shop? :)
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    Re: Les coulisses du parfum olfactory kits

    I would only be able to assume that they don't want to risk inducing allergies considering that they are singular notes and thus more concentrated.
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    Re: JC Ellena's New Book: Pre-order info.

    It could be his book Le Parfum but translated into English.
  45. Re: need expertise with 'noses' A real STUMPER

    It is interesting while putting race aside, there is a difference between American and French perfumery and Middle Eastern perfumery in the sense of taste. Though we are using the same palette and...
  46. Re: need expertise with 'noses' A real STUMPER

    Stephen Nilsen
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    Re: Perfumery is NOT going to die. IFRA helps creativity.

    Thanks for bringing me back to the real issue. Let me regather my thoughts.
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    Re: Perfumery is NOT going to die. IFRA helps creativity.

    Absolutely. I speak from a different perspective. But I hope more people spend the energy to fight for creation than stupid restrictions that will never stop coming.
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    Perfumery is NOT going to die.

    I actually need to rethink about this issue. Come back later :)
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    Cartier Declaration spinoffs?

    I'm revisiting this fantastic modern classic and I was wondering if there exists less-known spinoffs of this fragrance?

    Thanks!

    - Alex
  51. Re: Do perfumers have their 'own' patented synthetic aromachemicals?

    But what I'm trying to say that they probably had the pyramids all figured out with (insert captive name here). It didn't have to be Givaudan, it could have been Firmenich or IFF in the sense that...
  52. Re: Do perfumers have their 'own' patented synthetic aromachemicals?

    The thing is Givenchy probably had thought about using a marketing scheme like that from the get go. This whole "captive" marketing game is a crowd pleaser. IFF and Firmenich could easily do the same...
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    Re: Vanille Galante, my thoughts

    For me a solar effect comes from a group of raw materials called salicylates. It is hard to describe what it smells like but if you smell sunscreens and I say more so European sunscreens, you can get...
  54. Re: How to extract the ethanol from a perfume to leave the perfume oils only?

    Coming from a scientific background, I encourage experiments and exploration, but I say do not waste too much time on this. Even if you get a 100 percent separation, the fragrance will probably not...
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    Re: Is weirdness in a scent so important?

    (deleted)
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    Re: Vanille Galante, my thoughts

    Addendum: there is an acquatic accord inside (helional?, calone?)… there seems to be a muguet accord inside: this fragrance is really fine that I have trouble trying to dig deeper.

    Addendum 2: I...
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    Re: Vanille Galante, my review

    Eric, I totally understand about your perspective on understanding a fragrance. The thing is I'm on the creation end and it is my job to understand a fragrance. It is interesting because when I smell...
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    Vanille Galante, my thoughts

    Okay, this is not so much of a review, but more on some of the technical thoughts that went through my head when I smelled this.

    Finally, I had the chance to go to Cannes to smell the new Vanille...
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    Re: Do rose + citrus = peach?

    I have not smelled this, but there could be some aldehyde C14 used, a peachy synthetic very used in perfumery. But rose + citrus does not inherently make peach IMO.
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    Synthetic vs. Natural Perfumery

    My humble and beginner's take:

    This has been the hot topic since the public has become more and more educated in fragrance formulation over the past decade. I have spent hundreds of hours in...
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    Re: Transparency

    At no disrespect to to foetidus, based on my own personal olfactive vocabulary, the definition of transparent is exactly opposite as to what is perceived by him. Again, this is personal so there is...
  62. Re: A Sad Story. Traumatic Brain Injury=Loss of Smell

    Thanks for sharing your story. I am ultimately touched by it. Difficulties and pain are the best lessons in life.
  63. Sticky: Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    Redneck, L'Eau de Jatamansi is really amazing for an "all-natural" fragrance huh?
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    Re: I am blown away by this blog!

    As a young budding perfumer, his website is the first website that I go to each day. His technical observations are totally solid.
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    Re: Newbie playing with Iso E Super

    I am one for experimentation, so I say go for it. At the same time, there is so much iso e super in fragrances today already and I mean in nearly every single fragrance on the market, that honestly,...
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    Re: OK, Perfumers, Watch What They Say!

    Haha! That's great.
  67. Basenotes sales assistants or sales associates?

    I lost track of the post regarding basenotes members in the fragrance industry. I was wondering if there are any basenotes sales associates or sales assistant on this board. I was interested in...
  68. Re: hello fragrant women, young amateur in dating scene needing advice?

    Tsk, tsk Hillaire. I did really well with Platinum Egoiste at age 18 with the ladies ;).
  69. Re: Fragrances similar to Hermessence Poivre Samarcande

    Molecule 01 or Iso E Super is overdosed in PS - good nose!
  70. Re: At what point does this become annoying to a SA?

    Shopping in general is a service to the business and not the sale associate. I was really self conscious about this exact same thing many years ago, but I have long abandoned these sentiments because...
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    Re: Fragrance Prices, US and Europe

    I am an America living in France and I have made the same observations. Perfume is really expensive in Europe (France). The exchange rate makes it even worse.

    Speaking about Brazil for example,...
  72. Re: Jardin en Mediterranee - What colour's your juice?

    I went to a fragrance library and there was an old bottle of Un Jardin en Mediterranee there that was exactly the same color as pictured above. This is the result of time, exposure of sun,...
  73. Re: Styles of perfumers and interesting observations...

    Someone has mentioned Guerlain, but almost all of the fragrances can be easily distinguished as "Guerlain" with many linked with the Guerlinade accord.

    I forgot about Sophia Grosjman who plays...
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    Re: Something Similar to Gucci Pour Homme II

    http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/detail.asp?itemid=36905&section=1&rv=on

    Jade by Olivier Durbano is what I believe will please you. It is very tea and very Gucci Pour Homme 2.
  75. Re: common ingredients/notes in Frederick Malle scents?

    I have all the fragrances in question. Everso, can you give me two of the fragrances that you find strongly of this note so I can smell them in parallel. I'd love to clear up this mystery.

    - Alex
  76. Re: Clearly copied, inspired, flankers of existing fragrances...

    Perfumers do not have their say in most of their creations. They are led by a brief which has benchmarks and targets.
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    Fragrance and seducing women

    I have been a visitor of basenotes for I believe a little bit more than four years. Every few days, I see a new thread about which fragrance is best to seduce a woman. I can see how fragrances can be...
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    Re: Two silly and unrelated questions

    Careful Aiona! These are two totally different smells. Cinnamon can be used to make a carnation accord more sophisticated. Carnation and clove marry well together so they are often formulated...
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    Re: Two silly and unrelated questions

    To understand what carnation is you should definitely turn to L'Air DT but at the same time do try to smell L'Eau d'Issey Masculine and Feminine.

    If you have access to perfume raw materials, try...
  80. Re: Clearly copied, inspired, flankers of existing fragrances...

    Lovely - SJP and Narciso Rodriguez EDT
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    Re: 06130 Lentisque: Any Comments?

    Strangely, I have known about 06130 for the longest time. In fact, I live in the "06130" (Grasse) and I still have not been able to find these fragrances here.

    I have yet to find a fragrance...
  82. Styles of perfumers and interesting observations...

    Every perfumer has his or her style and palette and you often see many similarities in the creations of a perfumer. Jean Claude Ellena has a distinctive style of transparency where he uses his tea...
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    Re: Should I buy?

    I am not familiar with the Gucci's line of trickle downs. But do be careful that there exists a Gucci Rush in the red rectangular case and that would be the woman's fragance.
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    Re: Kenzo Elephant

    Have you tried Arabie by Serge Lutens, the two fragrances are pretty similar!
  85. Re: ScentMatchers claims to match any scent for $60

    If anyone has the money to buy 5 kilos of the concentrate (which you can make approximately 400 100 ml EDT bottles :)) as that is the minimum for the smallest perfumery companies, I can point you in...
  86. Sticky: Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    I'm back to contribute a little bit more. What has everyone been up to? :)
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    Re: Jean Claude Ellena

    I'll be sure to post a a review moments after I smell it :)! I had asked JC Ellena about Vanille Galante a month or so ago and he was surprised that the info was leaked on the internet already!
  88. Re: ScentMatchers claims to match any scent for $60

    Honestly, bad fragrance duplication spawns not so much from technology and science after the GC/MS analysis but from many other factors. That's all that I can say :).
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    Re: Fragrances that turn color as they age

    Color changes are caused by the chemistry that is occuring within the bottle. Certain raw materials natural and synthetic undergo different reactions to produce discoloration. Keeping your fragrances...
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    Lost in translation...

    Yesterday, I was reading about some thoughts of people on various fragrance reviewers. I noticed that there were many people complimenting on the "poeticness" and "lyrical" styles of writing of...
  91. Re: "Smells cheap" - what are the notes in common?

    Could cheapness also come from association to dihydromyrcenol and maybe not so much on the quality of lavender? Being that dihydromyrcenol, which is coupled with nearly every fragrance with lavender...
  92. Re: How is the current economic crisis impacting the fragrance industry?

    It seems nearly impossible to find a job in the industry. That I can tell you. :(
  93. Re: "Smells cheap" - what are the notes in common?

    I meant synthetic citrus (bergamot) bases like (linalyl acetate + derivatives) to replace natural citrus :).
  94. Re: "Smells cheap" - what are the notes in common?

    There is a decreased use in natural raw materials for many reasons (price, consistency, regulation, and it has been said - the lack of "know-how", etc.). I think a major problem today is the overuse...
  95. Re: 1 oz of GIT for less than $16: The price of luxury.

    Continuation post...

    The whole discussion is rather hard for me to write about in several sentences because this is a huge, complex machine. I have just scratched to surface of it too. Approaching...
  96. Re: 1 oz of GIT for less than $16: The price of luxury.

    It is interesting because we were recently shown the price breakdown of a fragrance. It's very complex with people taking little slices of profit in every level. The pricing is not really that high....
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    Re: Sur le Nil vs Declaration

    I've studied all of the the aforementioned fragrances (minus Poivre Samarcande) and worked on all of these personally, and I have to agree entirely with what Helg says ;). JCE recycles his accords...
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    Re: Sur le Nil vs Declaration

    The link: Iso E Super :) and a touch or two of certain spices.
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    Re: What chemical is this?

    I wish I could help, but I have not smelled Sandflowers. I'll try to smell Chrome this afternoon when I go out into town.
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    Re: What chemical is this?

    Careful, there is another melon note in adg. So what you are smelling is not only calone.
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