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    Long lasting buttery creamy note

    Hi I'm looking to work on a chocolate caramel type fragrance and wanted a buttery creamy type note to noth smooth it out and enhance the feel of the fragrance. I have recently purchased acetoin and...
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    Re: Looking for Oud like sweetness

    To me there is almost a toffee caramel type note when Cambodian oud dries down. Have you considered caramel furfural or maple furanone? I have only just started using the latter and havent used...
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    Re: Bisabolene help

    Once again you're 100% on point. Maybe I shouldn't try working off memory lol. I've just compared them side by side there are similarities. The bisabolene is missing the depth of the opoponax and...
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    Re: Bisabolene help

    I think theres definite similarities between the two. Bisaobelene is more gourmand than opoponax and more rounded. I can imagine adding a tiny bit of ambrarome (0.1% or less) with bisabolene would...
  5. Re: Veratraldehyde color stability question

    Interesting explanation. Wasnt even aware that dpg was acidic. Thanks for your input.
  6. Re: Veratraldehyde color stability question

    I've never had a discolouration problem with vanillin. I always add it to perfumes at 10% dpg. Could the dpg be the reason that discolouration doesnt occur? In some instances I've used vanillin at...
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    Re: Recreating Dior Savauge...

    �� I guess it is. I have attempted a clone of sauvage and used no cetalox as I don't have it. I used ambroxan instead
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    Thank you for your valuable input Xii. That's very useful information. Much appreciated. I have cuir base (firmenich) I'm guessing that will fix it too?
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    Re: Recreating Dior Savauge...

    Is it possible to use ambroxan with ambrox dl instead of cetalox?
  10. Replies
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    Thanks for the correction. I havent yet used this material. Theres also not much information available on it. Do you have any idea about its substantivity? And whether it appears in the top notes or...
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    I've not tested 2,6 xylenol yet only smelt it from the bottle, but it smells like a smokier version of isobutyl quinolone. It may be useful in adding a hint of smokiness to the oud accord. I...
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    Re: Oud reconstitution

    Hmm. I dont have maltol but I have ethyl maltol. I'm guessing they're fairly similar? Cotton candy fruity type sweetness? For general sweetness I usually use isobutavan it works really well. I've...
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    Re: Where to buy tools of the trade?

    I personally buy 10 and 30ml glass bottles (sometimes listed as vials). I usually buy them in lots of 200 or 400 from aliexpress as they work out quite cheap. I also use disposable pipettes in 1000...
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    Re: Oud reconstitution

    Bill I really appreciate the information. Thank you. I think you've demonstrated that these oud bases cant be made by someone with limited access to materials.

    Paul I definitely agree. I usually...
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    Oud reconstitution

    I am a huge fan of black agar givco 215 and oud synthetic by firmenich. They do however cost quite a lot.

    I was wondering if anyone here has any idea of the constituents of these two oud bases. I...
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    Re: Sweet Tonka note but not Gourmand

    I recently discovered montaverdi which is a beautiful fruit apple type note. It's almost the juicyness that oozes out of fruit and I believe it can probably be used with mast including citrus. Could...
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    Re: Sweet Tonka note but not Gourmand

    Could it be anisyl alcohol or anisaldehyde?
  18. Re: Longer lasting benzyl acetate type note

    Thank you for your suggestions. I have benzyl butyrate not isobutyrate. I've read that its suitable as an extender of benzyl acetate. In your opinion is that the case?
  19. Longer lasting benzyl acetate type note

    Hi

    I'm looking for a more substantive benzyl acetate note. It doesnt have to be one that goes down to the base but a couple more materials that would extend this type of note would be greatly...
  20. Re: Advice on projection/longevity etc

    I'm by no means an expert but I notice you have a huge amount of base notes in here. Things like safraleine and the damascones are quite diffusive (and even muscenone) however they will not diffuse...
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    Re: Juicy Apple accords

    I would use traces of cis 3 hexenyl acetate with even less of something green like stemone and for that juicy ness something fruity like manzanate. I've never tried to make this but theoretically it...
  22. Re: Firmenich Oud Samples from "Sharing Innovation 2018"

    From what I understand oud assafi is the the pure natural oud which is found in both samarat and maleki. How does it smell? Cant wait to get my hands on it!
  23. Re: Firmenich Oud Samples from "Sharing Innovation 2018"

    I have oud maleki and oud samarat which are part synthetic with some real oud (I think 10ish% and 20ish % genuine oud in them). I've only used the maleki in one composition at about 0.5% and i have...
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    Re: Cardamom linear?

    I purchased mine from hermitage oils. I have to say it's really good quality on performance and smells quite beautiful. My favourite type of cardamom when compared to the essential oil or the co2
  25. Re: Neroli portofino top note naturals

    I've seen a gcms of neroli portifino a while back. I dont remember there being a long lasting neroli scent. The ethylene brassylate by itself (with other musks) is not to my liking. I dont know if...
  26. Re: Neroli portofino top note naturals

    I think there is nerol here in quite a moderate amount. I'm pretty sure there's applelide too which although not a top note has some top note effect. Maybe ik wrong but I sense some citrylal e.
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    Re: Cardamom linear?

    I see what you mean. I haven't measured the substantivity of the cardamom absolute but I'd estimate it lasts between 200 and 300 hours on a scent strip. It's less woody and more sweet than cardamom...
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    Re: Tea note in green Irish tweed

    I'd be open to getting a tenth but I'm based in the uk so not sure how much shipping would be?
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    Re: Cardamom linear?

    To me prismantol has some resemblance to cardamom but not fully. It has nuances of pepper nutmeg and ginger to me. I would personally use the essential oil and the absolute as they are actually...
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    Re: Cardamom linear?

    Cardamom absolute is much longer lasting than the essential oil or the co2 extract in my experience. I would personally use a mixture of both the essential oils and the absolute as the essential oil...
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    Re: Castoreum herbal replacer ?

    I'm not sure how to build a castoreum accord however firmenich and givaudan both offer castoreum replacer. Not sure where you're based but pellwall offer the givaudan product in the uk
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    Re: Tea note in green Irish tweed

    I'm on the second attempt the top notes seem pretty close for me but its once they disappear that mine is quite different to the real thing. Personally I think trying to mimic these real perfumes is...
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    Re: Tea note in green Irish tweed

    Thank you for your responses.

    Paul I've never actually had green tea but I'm very familiar with the smell of black tea! But that was a great insight, thank you for your input.

    I have...
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    Re: Tea note in green Irish tweed

    Now that you mention it I think it may well be damascone. There is a fresh citrus ozone note too. I'm thinking this could be ozonil? Hmmm I assumed there was an overdose of dihydromyrcenol in GIT.
    ...
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    Tea note in green Irish tweed

    Hi does anyone know what the fruity green tea note is in GIT. Its prevalent after the top notes have disappeared. And lasts quite some time. It seems to have similarities to green tea givco but is...
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    Re: Lavender extension

    Try lavender base by payan Bertrand- this goes down to the base of the perfume. Also try to use ethyl linalool which outlasts linalool
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    Re: Alternative To Tobacco Oil

    I do have a small sample bottle of imperial millesime. Next time I spray it I will be on the look out for this note. What synthetic ketones are you referring to parker25mv?
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    Re: Alternative To Tobacco Oil

    Really? Never even crossed my mind. I've smelt it in tom ford amber absolute - quite a bit of it is in there from what I can smell (by quite a bit I mean upto 0.5%) but I've never even noticed it in...
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    Re: Alternative To Tobacco Oil

    I agree with the above comment tabanon is a very useful material in tobacco notes. It is quite expensive but I would say a 5% solution is equivalent to full strength tobacco absolute so it does work...
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    Re: Paul's Thread

    Thanks Paul. I have read many of your contributions on this forum and I for one can definitely say i have learnt a great deal from you in addition to other experienced perfumers such as David Ruskin...
  41. Re: Has anyone ordered bottles from Alibaba?

    I have ordered from Alibaba. I would say check the feedback of the seller and make sure you buy from a seller offering trade assurance. This makes sure if there are any problems you will eventually...
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    Re: Saffron

    Delta damascone to me is a distinctly rosy saffron note whereas alpha and beta damascone are more fruity/dry fruit/plum rose. I think delta damascone provides the anchor for a saffron note and adds...
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    Re: Saffron

    I'm assuming you meant safranal? I've never smelt this however for saffron sweetness you can try delta damascone or ethyl safranate.
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    Re: Perfume - how to improve longevity?

    I agree with the others that restricting yourself to purely natural ingredients would greatly reduce your options. Personally I would add sanjinol javanol rosalva and rose Crystal's which would...
  45. Re: A Couple of Questions on an Amber Accord

    I think ambrain or olibanum would work very well with this mix. Acetanisole or anisyl acetate would work well too especially if you incorporate the floral aspects of grand soir. In addition patchouli...
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    Re: Copycats... Again >:(

    Under ifra guidance and the EU cosmetics directive substances that are restricted in use or are irritants have to be explicitly named in the list of ingredients. Any other substances can be placed...
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    Re: Copycats... Again >:(

    Con-li you are absolutely correct. There was also a case with a Dutch court:

    https://www.patentbaristas.com/archives/2010/01/19/smelly-rights-copyright-in-perfume/

    I understand where you guys...
  48. Re: Reverse engineering a perfume (cloning)

    I am on a journey of cloning perfumes in order to learn how to build different types of perfumes. I use a few ways to do this:

    1. Fragrantica - I use note pyramids to provide clues about what...
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    Re: BHT usage percentage

    That's a great point. I was actually thinking its 1% of the final product. Just a side note, I purchased a perfume dating from the 1960s and I assume it doesnt have any BHT in it, or perhaps it does....
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    Re: Bringing a fragrance to market

    In the UK as pears has stated you have to register the product on the EU database and it has to have been tested in addition to correct labeling.

    In addition any business requires public liability...
  51. Re: "Burping" and the General Aging of Fragrances

    The ultrasonic sound waves will penetrate thin glass. The one I had had a water bath which you could heat up to the desired temperature. I put the e liquid into bottles and sealed them and put them...
  52. Re: "Burping" and the General Aging of Fragrances

    I have used an ultrasonic cleaner but only in e liquids. The steeping (maturation) process that would take a week of the eliquid being sat at room temperature takes 3 hours in an ultrasonic cleaner...
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    Re: Suede thoughts

    I have just received a sample of cuir base by firmenich. It smells like a smoother sweeter suede when compared to suederal lt. I have only smelt this from the bottle but it smells very promosing
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    Re: BHT usage percentage

    Its strange that IFRA has so many restrictions on aromachemicals but not a requirement to preserve them and prevent their oxidation. Yes I thought it was within that range, thank you for looking into...
  55. Re: "Burping" and the General Aging of Fragrances

    I have an electronic (magnetic) stirrer. Would this not speed up the maturation process? Theoretically the interaction between the different aromachemicals and the base would significantly increase...
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    BHT usage percentage

    Just wondering if BHT should be added at 1% of fragrance or if this varies dependent on the type of fragrance?

    Is there any minimum requirement of BHT to be used or can it be left out altogether?...
  57. Re: Something similar to Spikenard / Liquorice?

    Toscanol is quite a powerful smooth anise note, and is quite sweet
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    Re: ‘Sexy’ elements

    I'm not sure about the sexiness you're trying to evoke, but I guess it all depends on the direction you want to take the perfume in, and since you have listed so few materials you could literally...
  59. Re: Infamous benzyl benzoate to the rescue

    Is it more that benzyl benzoate is a fixative and is therefore slowing the diffusion of aromachemicals hence reducing their effect? From what I understand it hardly has any odour.
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    Re: Violet flower

    I'm not sure how much or if this is found in a violet GC, but to me alpha irone smells very violet like. Clean and pretty linear, it's a beautiful scent with tenacity that isnt too bad. The only...
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    Re: Fresh hay accords

    Dimethyl hydroquinone is quite good in my opinion for hay compositions if used in traces as it will otherwise take over the note
  62. Replies
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    Re: Masculine sweetness

    As mentioned maybe try using coumarin. Have you considered isobutavan? It's great for adding sweetness
  63. Replies
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    Re: My base blend

    As the above user has stated ethyl vanillin would be great as a top to bottom vanilla. If you wanted the vanilla to appear more towards the drydown then use vanillin. I think isobutavan would also go...
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    Re: Blenders in Aventus

    Yes I didnt have much experience with dynascone and did not realise how powerful it was.

    Octacetal is sort of a lime bergamot note with a fruity floral aspect to it. It's really powerful - I used...
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    Re: Blenders in Aventus

    Your formula inspired me to work on aventus and I'm getting very close to it. I reduced the dynascone massively and increased the pyralone slightly and took put birch tar completely. As the above...
  66. Re: Extend Longevity of EO Grapefruit and Mint?

    For an extended camphor note I used lavender base with patchoulol, patchouli oil and c11 undecylenic in traces. This was extremely long lasting and extended into the dry down but depending on the...
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    Re: Powdery bases

    Polvolide is powdery and although I've not explored it fully it seems like an incredible material already
  68. Re: Name the 3 most beautiful material you know

    Tabanon
    Alpha irone
    Ethyl safranate

    Top 3 naturals
    Ginger absolute
    Geranium absolute
    Labdanum absolute
  69. Re: Looking for materials like Methyl Pamplemousse with longevity

    I second khusinil and paradisamide. Paradisamide has a tropical nuance to it. Try adding a tiny but of lemonile to bring out its citrus element more
  70. Replies
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    Re: Long Lasting Linalool Types

    You're absolutely right. After your comment I went back to both linalool and ethyl linalool and smelt them both and they are much more similar than I had thought. I'd never smelt them side by side...
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    Re: Long Lasting Linalool Types

    This is a really good thread that you've started. Ethyl linalool although similar in name to my nose it is completely different to linalool. Smells to me like coriander with citrus and a hint of...
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    Re: Formula dilution percentages

    Fractionated coconut oil is probably the best natural base to use - it isnt greasy when applied to the skin and has a long life span compared to other naturals and is also relatively cheap.

    For...
  73. Re: Buying Civet and Ambergris in the UK.

    Hi

    You can purchase this from hermitageoils - however I believe they have moved to Italy but will ship to the UK with a minimum 75 euro spend.

    The civet absolute is sold in 0.25ml for 7.50...
  74. Replies
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    Re: green top note

    Thank you very much for your responses. I greatly value your input.

    The reason I was looking for an extremely short lived molecule is because I wanted there to be an initial green smell to the...
  75. Re: Amazed again, a Watermelon molecule...

    Wow that's impressive

    I thought new molecules was the work of flavour and fragrances manufacturers. I studied chemistry so I appreciate that to be able to manipulate hydrocarbon compounds in such...
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    Cant smell baccarat rouge 540

    I've purchased the edp and extrait versions of baccarat rouge 540 and although the smell is more apparent in the extrait version I can hardly smell this perfume. I smell a slight orange at the top...
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    Re: creating STRONG fragrances

    It's all about adding the right materials that will increase diffusion. For florals/citrus/oceanic and pretty much any perfume use hedione, which will vastly increase diffusion.

    Aldehydes will do...
  78. Replies
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    green top note

    Hi I am looking for green top note that smells a bit like stemone but is much less substantive - I need it to last around 2 hours (on a smelling strip). Thank you!
  79. Replies
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    Re: Suede thoughts

    Yes I got it from pellwall

    I have both yes. I applied both to each wrist - this is the first time I've smelt Cuir 17500. Its way more diffusive in comparision to Seuderal LT, and is more powerful...
  80. Replies
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    Re: Suede thoughts

    I too havent smelled suede but an alternative to it is Cuir 17500 YSS MR by syndrome. I havent yet worked with it but it's a smoother less animalic and more floral take on leather/suede. It smells...
  81. JO MALONE wood sage and sea salt accord

    I'm wondering what the intensely sweet note is in this perfume. It smells almost like a jasmine with musk with a hint of peach, melon. There also seems to be an ozonic type of note here. It is...
  82. Replies
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    Re: Study plan suggestions

    Although I have been perfuming for two years I still consider myself a beginner since there is so much to know.

    Everyone has their own style of learning but for me the best way I learnt was in...
  83. Replies
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    Mango middle note

    I wanted to make a mango jasmine coconut middle note that lasts anywhere 50+ hours on a smelling strip. I need accord to be bith creamy and fruity

    I have explored citruses, woods, resins etc but...
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    Re: Car perfume diffuser mix

    I was thinking maybe alcohol would be worth a try with something else due to its volatility. My order for DPM and TPM just arrived so I will try a few different variants and report back my findings....
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    Re: Filtering Perfume Concentrate

    I second that. I always dissolve resins like labdabum oppoponax etc in alcohol and filter them 2 or 3 times using coffee filters. I use a a stand and sit the coffee filter in a plastic funnel.
  86. Replies
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    Re: Thick Jammy Rose - Advice

    You may have already started your mix but if you have strawberry furanone - this would be quite a good material to try out on this too. Best of luck!
  87. Replies
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    Car perfume diffuser mix

    I wanted to make car perfume which is liquid and would go into a bottle like in the link below:

    https://carcologne.co.uk/products/black-car-air-freshener-diffuser?variant=22640450535542

    The way...
  88. Replies
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    Re: Thick Jammy Rose - Advice

    I would use some ethyl maltol but it's pretty powerful - so even at 0.05-0.1% its effect would be more than noticeable. This will help to add some "jamminess".

    I have also experimented with using...
  89. Replies
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    Re: Camphor note in Creed viking

    Thank you fr both of your responses.

    I have used habanolide and patcholoul with molecular distilled patchouli. I also think adding traces of aldehyde C11 undecylenic would give that sparkle and...
  90. Re: what's that leather note in Tom Ford Tuscan Leather?

    The note is a mix of safraleine, a bit of ethyl safranate, isobutyl quinolone, suederal lt, and raspberry ketone, which helps to soften these notes and gives it that berry nuance. I also feel there...
  91. Replies
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    Re: Camphor note in Creed viking

    Thank you for your quick response. With regards to using patchouli and lavender I'm guessing I could use patcholoul, but using aromachemicals what could I use for a long lasting lavender note?
  92. Replies
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    Re: Ambroxan %

    Buy some scales and measure out 1ml of 10% ambroxan and weigh it out. Whatever the weight comes to divide that by 10 and you will get the weight of ambroxan.
  93. Replies
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    Camphor note in Creed viking

    I was looking to create something similar to creed viking. The camphor note in Viking is apparent to my nose even after an hour on skin contact. Can anyone help with naming a long lasting camphor...
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    Re: Tom Ford re-releases

    You've made some great points there and made me feel a lot better :)

    You are right all that matters if I love them or not, because ultimately that decides whether the price I paid was worthwhile....
  95. Replies
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    Re: Tom Ford re-releases

    Thank you for your response. Are you aware of the differences in bois du morocain and amber absolute and if they are hugely different? I invested a fair bit of money into both when they had been...
  96. Replies
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    amber perfume help

    I want to produce a perfume inspired by tom ford amber absolute. It will be based around tabanon, labdanum, vanilla (ethyl vanillin and vanillin) and some wood notes. In amber absolute the tabanon is...
  97. Replies
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    Tom Ford re-releases

    Tom ford has recently rereleased many of its discontinued perfumes such as Bois du morocain and Amber absolute. Does anyone know if these are exactly the same as they were previously or if these are...
  98. How much does dissolving aromachemicals increase volume by?

    When making up a perfume does adding 5ml of aromachemicals (assuming they are not solid) increase the total volume including the alcohol by 5ml? Or does the volume increase by less than 5ml? What...
  99. Re: Does perfume mature slower if you make a larger amount

    Thanks for the responses.

    I have experience with making e liquid much more than perfume and with larger amounts of e liquid it does take longer to steep, or mature. Many flavourings are in fact...
  100. Replies
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    Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    A great attempt here

    Just a couple of observations. Dynascone and pyralone are extremely powerful so I would reduce the amount you are using. I would use 0.05% dynascone and 0.1-0.15% pyralone...
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