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    Re: The Murky Matter of Musk

    You've set the bar high many times, Claire, but this piece blows the bar into orbit. A fantastic article that I plan on reading multiple times to fully absorb.

    I'm a huge fan of stinkers, and the...
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    Re: NEW? Tom Ford Oud Minérale and Oud Ocean

    Oud MInerale sounded like an interesting concept, but I was ultimately let down by it. There's too much reliance on ambroxan in the base for a perfume at this pricepoint, and not exactly a whole lot...
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    Re: Slumberhouse Discussion

    It reminds me of a horse saddle for some reason. It's a trickier one to get along with, but I find that it's emblematic of the brand overall. I think Mare's one of the most challenging, but it's also...
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    Re: Slumberhouse Discussion

    Nice to see folks getting back into Baque! It is indeed the exact same formula as the 2012 version, even down to the same tobacco absolutes that power it (there's more than one in there). For a...
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    Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Early impression is that this one's a durable, real sandalwood — buttery, rich, and a tad leathery (not peanutty at all). The pineapple note is very tastefully done, smelling nothing like...
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    Re: Slumberhouse Discussion

    Limited run of Baque if anyone's interested: http://www.slumberhouse.com/shop/baque
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    Re: Juniper Ridge samples

    Extraction and production have a lot to do with it in this case. Norne is made from a series of costly CO2 and absolute extractions (which explains the density of color). The Juniper Ridge materials...
  8. Re: I received some extremely bad news that I'd like to share with my Basenotes family.

    Very sad news indeed. He'll be missed around these parts for sure.

    Thanks for the update, Checkmate.
  9. Replies
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    Re: Slumberhouse Discussion

    To be totally honest, things change so much I can't say with any certainty! One is loosely based on a traditional genre (in as much as New Sibet was sort of based on a traditional genre), and the...
  10. Re: Pekji Perfumes: A new line by former BN member Saripatates.

    Omer's been moving around a bit, but he's back home now and there should be some development soon. There have been some talks for wider distribution, so hopefully the line will be easier to access in...
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    Re: Slumberhouse Discussion

    I know the box you mean. It was supposed to be like a playing card box, but I'm not sure how long it'll be around. Josh has vacillated back and forth on the role of design quite a bit. He actually...
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    Re: Slumberhouse Discussion

    New Sibet actually does pretty well, but it did seem to have a mixed response from older fans. It's quite a different aesthetic from what most of us came to expect from the line. I like it and wear...
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    Re: Slumberhouse Discussion

    Hey all,
    I haven't been around much as of late because of an intense work schedule, but I can set a few minds at rest that all's well with the line. The next release hasn't been finalized, but he's...
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    Re: Two Basenotes articles won Jasmine awards!

    Very well deserved! Major congrats to both Claire and Laurin!
  15. Replies
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    Re: L'animal Sauvage by MARLOU

    A number of people have linked it to Helmut Lang, but it's way more MKK to me. I really don't see Helmut Lang as that musky though (and I wear it often). I actually found the Marlou quite animalic —...
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    Re: NEW: Bruno Fazzolari - Feu Secret!

    The best way I can describe it is that while the metallic chill of iris is present throughout, there's a balmy herbal aspect that counters the medicinal chill. It doesn't come off steely and cold at...
  17. Re: I received some extremely bad news that I'd like to share with my Basenotes family.

    Rich — thanks for letting us know; I'll be keeping you in mind.
  18. Replies
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    Re: Seeking an unlikely airy scent

    I'm a fan of the aesthetic you're describing but yes, performance can be a problem. I find that Himalaya (not the Creed scent) achieves this effect quite well, but you might also try Nu_Be's Oxygen,...
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    Re: My first experience with MFK

    This is the line's standout for me as well. I've tried pretty much everything else on offer including the new ones, but none of them touch AplS for my liking. I've heard that Ciel de Gum is very good...
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    Re: Geek Fragrances

    That does sound good! Myrrh is a challenging note to work with and often smells kind of muddy. Armani did a myrrh scent not too long ago but it's 98% sugar and very little myrrh.
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    Re: Slumberhouse Discussion

    No news to report as of yet!
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    Re: NEW Zoologist: Civet

    I tried this last night. I haven't connected to any of the scents in the line that I've tried so far (which is a shame as I genuinely like the aesthetic / approach), but this one has the most...
  23. Re: I'm purchasing a full bottle of Frederic Malle. I've narrowed it down to FOUR, please help decid

    Probably not much help, but figured I'd mention it:

    There's a pretty convincing knock-off of Musc Rav called Méharées by L'Erbolario. I've gone wrist-to-wrist with them and, aside from the opening...
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    Re: Now I've seen it all..

    Clearly it's a joke and I'm reading it as a stunt, but if it's supposed to be commentary, it seems a bit too obvious / easy, doesn't it? Obviously the line is based on irreverence and pranks, but...
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    Re: Blind buy BVLGARI Man In Black?

    This one does have a unique opening, but I found it to be fairly generic about 15 mins later. It's not bad given its target audience, but it's kind of your standard mass-market musky blur.
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    Re: Wearing women's fragrances?

    Exactly. There are some parallels between perfume and wine in terms of composition, structure, and appreciation. And although I'm sure that such marketing does exist, could you imagine if the wine...
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    Re: what's your favorite dark rose scent?

    Rose is one of my kryptonites, but I'm down for a dark, dramatic, theatrical rose now and again. I quite like Neil Morris' Gotham, which is really an amber but with a distinct animalic rose up top....
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    Re: New No.5 Flanker Coming Sept. '16

    I've worn this a few times myself but can't quite hang with it. I do like the opening sequence — which reads like a pixellated montage of No. 5 (or at least something sparkly aldehydic and...
  29. Re: Stash : New unisex scent from Sarah Jessica Parker

    Given the problems you had with Sova, I think you might like this one as an alternate aesthetic. Even though it's quite simple and fairly generic in the dry down, there's enough character up top to...
  30. Re: Stash : New unisex scent from Sarah Jessica Parker

    The Ulta I went to had a ton of stock — like piles of the stuff — but from what I hear, it did sell out online. Good luck!
  31. Re: Stash : New unisex scent from Sarah Jessica Parker

    It's definitely not in the same league as any of those. My point was more that it might be hard to rationalize a bottle of Stash if you already own any of those. Even at $27, I couldn't justify it...
  32. Re: Stash : New unisex scent from Sarah Jessica Parker

    Well "violet" in terms of filler-style floral accords. I'm an hour in now, and it's mainly pencil-style cedar with some synth support (tasteful amounts of synth sandal like javanol, norlimbanol,...
  33. Re: Stash : New unisex scent from Sarah Jessica Parker

    This is an odd one. It reminds me, style-wise, of CdG's Girl in that it's straddling department store and indie aesthetics. Component-wise, there are some parallels too (mainly a big musky...
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    Re: Andy Tauer destroys bloggers...

    Just because it seems so uncharacteristic of Andy, that's all. The target of his ire seems misplaced to me.



    And I totally agree with you here, Trilby — that's the only way I can rationalize...
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    Re: Is there a new gardenia perfume out there?

    Two from this year that might be worth a sniff, but sadly, they're both high-ticket items and totally not mass / designer:

    Bogue Profumo's Gardelia: Which, I have to say, reminded me quite a bit...
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    Re: Fragrance references in fiction books or films

    I've been doing a bit of writing on the British TV show Shameless and there's a "virtual" tour that you can take of the set on the Channel 4 website. For the unfamiliar, the show's known for its...
  37. Re: Please suggest a spicy perfume (updated).....

    I hate to suggest something hard to find, but have you tired Padparadscha by Satellite? Also, not technically a spicy scent, but how about something like PG's Coze? I've been wearing it lately (I...
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    Re: Andy Tauer destroys bloggers...

    This was my guess too. Very disappointing to read his post, especially given how much work ClaireV puts into her writing. There was nothing confusing in that piece to me, and it was fairly clear that...
  39. Thread: Aeon 001

    by deadidol
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    Re: Aeon 001

    Yeah, I think the word was actually out a little while ago, but people were staying hush-hush. In fact, Antonio had bottles on display at the AIX Scent Fair back in May. It's a pricey blind buy so...
  40. Re: Ever Been Called Pretentious By Someone Who Loves Axe Body Spray? :)

    Okay — that's enough.
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    Re: HERMESSENCE - help put together a gift set?

    For what it’s worth, I don’t like the regular Hermes line very much (for some of the reasons you note) but I love several from Hermessense. Just be warned that with the exception of Ambre Narguilé...
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    Re: Lush Kurbside Violet?

    It's very green, damp, and quite aromatic — lots of violet leaf powering it. I find that the liquid performs a little better than the solid, but neither is a powerhouse. I liked it, but if you want a...
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    Re: Slumberhouse Discussion

    Well, whatever is at the distributors is pretty much going to be the end of it. There may be enough left to make it into the early months of next year, but I’d urge anyone on the fence to jump. The...
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    Re: Slumberhouse Discussion

    Ore hasn’t changed much at all over the years, so I wouldn’t worry too much about it. What you have from 1.5 years ago should be virtually identical to the current batches. If you’re deciding between...
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    Re: Slumberhouse Kiste alternative?

    Diptyque's new Kimonanthe merges Kiste with Jeke but relies on inexpensive aroma chemicals like synthetic sandalwood — of which there is a ton. The Diptyque is closer to Jeke than Kiste, but it's not...
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    Re: What happened to Fazzolari's AU DELA??

    No idea, unfortunately. It's definitely one of the best in the line, so if you do see a bottle floating around, I'd grab it. It's more of a jasmine scent than anything to me — a classical,...
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    Re: What happened to Fazzolari's AU DELA??

    From what I understand it's going to be more of a seasonal affair than a part of the year-round collection kind of like how the Narcisse version is an occasional release. It's a shame as it's one of...
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    Re: Gimmicky/Bizarre Fragrances

    Wode! Geza Scheoen, wasn't it? I bought a can of the non-dye version and it smelled like the kind of thing he'd do. The blue dye was pretty fun though!
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    Re: Gimmicky/Bizarre Fragrances

    Funeral Home is actually pretty good! It's really just a kind of damp lily and carnation scent that's surprisingly easy to wear. It's very similar to a CBIHP scent that came out last year as it was...
  50. Re: Santal 33 by Le Labo worth to be bought blind???

    Hard call to make as it absolutely depends on personal preference. I've never liked it myself as it has this bizarre dill-like note that comes out when I wear it, but it's very popular for a reason....
  51. Thread: Demeter Fig

    by deadidol
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    Re: Demeter Fig

    You're talking about "Fig leaf" right? I have it, and it's very similar to Philosykos only less green/woody and more bright with distinct jolly rancher-style fruityness for the first 30 seconds or so...
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    Re: New Slumberhouse: "New Sibet"

    I think your leg's being pulled a bit here ;)
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    Re: New delivery of ACs

    I try to keep as many of my materials at 10% as possible, but I have ebanol / javanol / sandalrome etc. at 1%. I'd try both, but just watch out when using it as what seems like a reasonable amount...
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    Re: New delivery of ACs

    It (or its various relatives) is one of the most widely used and abused materials in modern perfumery — especially the sugary bro-style woody-ambers that dominate modern "masculines." Most modern...
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    Re: Tom Ford Bois Marocain is back, but?

    I'm surprised they didn't do a price gauge with Amber Absolute. While Bois Marocain seems like it had its fans, it never quite gained the culty following of AA. Incidentally, I bought a bottle of BM...
  56. Thread: New: Dusita

    by deadidol
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    Re: New: Dusita

    I suspect that the reason they show up on fragrantica is because Sergey wrote about them. I was under the impression that they were still in the mod phase, but perhaps they're complete? I have a...
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    Re: New Slumberhouse: "New Sibet"

    If you want Jeke, get it from wherever you can — one of the key components is almost impossible to source now and so the scent has been discontinued.
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    Re: Louis Vuitton parfume. September 2016

    Again, great points, Sea Roses — especially if they know their target audience which, by the sounds of sales figures, they certainly do. I was trying to picture the ideal customer in my mind, but I...
  59. Thread: Aeon 001

    by deadidol
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    Re: Aeon 001

    I was actually surprised that people didn't cotton on sooner. The first time I smelled it, I made an instant connection to Maai. Having said that, it does come off like a departure to me despite a...
  60. Thread: Aeon 001

    by deadidol
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    Re: Aeon 001

    Although I don't know if it was figured out sooner, but Luca Turin's most recent blog post gives you all a good idea of the secret nose behind Aeon 001 ;)
  61. Replies
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    Re: Louis Vuitton parfume. September 2016

    All good points, Sea Roses! Very much interested in your take on them. Although I tend to veer toward "the shock of the new," most of my purchases this year so far have been fairly safe by comparison...
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    Re: Celebrity Fragrances Worth Getting

    Came here to say the same thing! 2nd Cumming is my concentration preference, but it's a great celebrity scent.
  63. Replies
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    Re: Louis Vuitton parfume. September 2016

    I think this is key as well, and that was my most surprising take away from the line – that they don't have a clear identity of their own. I found that they hover somewhere around low-end designer in...
  64. Replies
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    Re: Louis Vuitton parfume. September 2016

    I tried these today and ended up taking a few samples but unfortunately I wasn't keen on any in the end. The SA was lovely, and the presentation was quite elaborate (there's a bit of a performance...
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    Re: New Slumberhouse: "New Sibet"

    Not strong at all. It smells like it's used as a punch of treble to give the dry floral accord some emphasis. The floral notes smell hot, and I think the mint, rather than cooling the accord down,...
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    Re: New Slumberhouse: "New Sibet"

    Haha! Perfect!
  67. Replies
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    Re: New Slumberhouse: "New Sibet"

    The musky/hair notes aren't too over the top (picture a more balanced version of L'Air de Rien), but I would still categorize the scent as somewhat challenging — largely in that it resembles a space...
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    Re: COLD designer fragrances

    It's not designer but it's certainly inexpensive and easy to find: Dirty by Lush. It comes off a tad toothpasty at first but softens into a cool herbal scent that definitely smells fresh and chilly.....
  69. Thread: New: Dusita

    by deadidol
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    Re: New: Dusita

    It's a HUGE white floral scent — tons of tuberose, which is mainly what I took from it. It's creamy / oily and there's a prominent jasmine. I can't say I got that much gardenia from it to be honest....
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    Re: Heeley - recomendations

    Definitely worth looking into. Fairly accomplished overall although not the most cohesive portfolio — the line's styles are all over the map. The other issue I have is that several of them turn quite...
  71. Replies
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    Re: New Slumberhouse: "New Sibet"

    Not a review, but just a few thoughts to maybe give people pointers as to what New Sibet smells like to me. These are very quick, loose impressions — I reserve the right to change my mind on the fly....
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    Re: New member from Cincinnati, Oh

    ^ Either one of those would be a fine choice!
  73. Replies
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    Re: New Slumberhouse: "New Sibet"

    That's one facet I have a pretty good clue about. Think of the fuzzier aspects of a scent like Musc Tonkin and it could be a step in the right direction. I should be able to get my nose on this...
  74. Replies
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    Re: Slumberhouse Discussion

    That's the stuff. It's not a widely used material — certainly not in perfume due to the exorbitant cost — and what few supply channels existed seem to have dried up. Attempts were made to reboot Jeke...
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    Re: Slumberhouse Discussion

    Also, pro-tip: Jeke will be leaving the collection soon. The reason is because one of the key components — Lapsang Souchong CO2 — is no longer available from the source in the kind of volumes needed...
  76. Replies
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    New Slumberhouse: "New Sibet"

    Before you ask, I haven't smelled the final version so I really can't comment on where this scent ended up, but early versions merged floralized leathers with dry, musky, desert-like tones and an...
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    Re: Jeremy Fragrance controversy or not.

    Because discussion has now devolved to the level of insults and misogynistic comments that would be befit YouTube, I think it's run its course here. Now that Jeremy and various others in the...
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    Re: Basil domination

    You might not be familiar with the site's directory or search function, but you can use "advanced search" for the kinds of questions you've been asking such as what scents contain basil:...
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    Re: Jeremy Fragrance controversy or not.

    I've long thought that there's a real difference between the discussions of fragrance that take place on Basenotes and the discussions of fragrance that take place on YouTube. This difference, it...
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    Re: Pekji Ordering Question

    I just got a hold of him so he should be in touch soon. There are issues with paypal and things are definitely rocky over there, but hopefully he'll be in a better position to develop the line soon.
  81. Replies
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    Re: Pekji Ordering Question

    Omer's in Istanbul and, well, things are a little rough over there right now. I know him so I'll see if I can alert him to your message.
  82. Re: I Will Probably Regret Asking This Question, But....

    Ha! Right as I was writing my above post!
    It's an interesting discussion — it just needs to stay on track! No knuckle-wrapping!
  83. Re: I Will Probably Regret Asking This Question, But....

    Hey all,

    It's probably wise to keep the focus on the original question (what are the extraction methods used?) rather than the obviously divisive "what are the ethics of doing so?" It's hard to...
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    Re: Surrender To Chance Guerlain Clearance Sale

    For just reselling a bottle? I can't imagine so. Unless someone were reselling in bulk, then that might sound alarms.
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    Re: Surrender To Chance Guerlain Clearance Sale

    I'm not too up to speed on the fine print myself, but it has something to do with redistribution of a non-official sizes and whatnot. For example, a brand might want their scent presented at 50ml or...
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    Re: Any unique Lavender scents?

    I got them when they first came out — last year, I think. I don't seem to have any problems paying, and I'm pretty sure it was paypal. I do recall that several of us here bought them at the same time...
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    Poll: Re: Diaghilev vs Amber Aoud

    They're certainly worth sampling. I'm not sure on the timelines as I'm a bit out of the loop, but write to the perfumer and see if she can send some. I think she's in France though, so it might be...
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    Poll: Re: Diaghilev vs Amber Aoud

    Maybe send her an email to see if she can send some out? Otherwise, from what I hear, they'll be at a US retailer soon (*cough* Lucky Scent *cough*). From the same line, Issara is a sort of teal-hued...
  89. Replies
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    Re: Any unique Lavender scents?

    There was a bit of buzz last year surrounding Angela Ciampagna's line and I found them to be a little hit or miss, but one of the standouts — and one that I considered buying because I wanted the...
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    Poll: Re: Diaghilev vs Amber Aoud

    I have a feeling you're still going to prefer Diaghilev (it's hard to top in terms of opulence and whatnot), but it's worth checking out the field if you like the style. Maai is a huge scent that's...
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    Re: Surrender To Chance Guerlain Clearance Sale

    No, they've never carried there. The full line is down the street at Saks though.
  92. Replies
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    Poll: Re: Diaghilev vs Amber Aoud

    I can't keep up with the hubbub about Amouage reformulations, but a while back, Fragrancenet (I think it was Fragrancenet) was selling off a bunch of old Amouage testers in 30ml bottles for peanuts....
  93. Replies
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    Poll: Re: Diaghilev vs Amber Aoud

    Maai is very much a chypre and there's a bunch of moss in that. He's definitely one of the folks doing classic styles really well. Have you tried Bruno Fazzolari's Au Dela? It's jasmine-driven, but...
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    Re: John Varvatos Recommendations ,

    I just tried Dark Rebel today. Attention-getting opening sequence (dry "tobacco" and "castoreum") over the usual sugary-wood base. The opening lasts about 10 minutes and then it's a light muddy...
  95. Replies
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    Poll: Re: Diaghilev vs Amber Aoud

    Diaghilev is masterfully composed, for sure. Isn't it building on Mitsouko? Also, have you tried Chypre Palatin? Not nearly as opulent, but it's a modern chypre that's well done. Diaghilev is...
  96. Replies
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    Re: What does vetiver smell like?

    There's quite a bit of variance in scent profile for vetiver depending on where and how it's sourced. In mass-production perfume, though, you're probably going to find more materials like vetiveryl...
  97. Replies
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    Re: Volutes Diptyque or Tobacco Oud Tom Ford

    Tobacco Oud is quite dry to me, so if it's sweet you're after, you might veer more toward Volutes (although I don't find it to be that sweet either). Tobacco Oud, though, signaled a bit of a return...
  98. Replies
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    Re: Italian Cypress Tom Ford - ages and styles

    Definitely works for any age, gender, style (anyone who has skin, really). You might also take a peek at the new Vert d'Encens which, I swear, has Italian Cypress written into the formula. The...
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    Poll: Re: Diaghilev vs Amber Aoud

    I find Diaghilev kind of costumey and over the top as well (in a playful way), but I do prefer it to Amber Aoud. I find that both push "rich opulence" too far and lack the subtlety that their...
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    Re: Project Renegades: Bertrand Duchaufour

    It could be the way they use pink pepper — which is excessive throughout. They're all loaded to the gills with the usual synthetic suspects but all three perfumers have handled these kind of...
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