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  1. Replies
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    Re: Looking for Oud like sweetness

    Have you tried Isomohanol yet?
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    Re: Group buy for GC/MS

    It's certainly wasteful to perform countless analyses on the same perfume. I wouldn't mind paying but I can hardly imagine this sort of service to work. Not without having a sufficiently large...
  3. Thread: Fixing Stickiness

    by xii
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    Re: Fixing Stickiness

    I checked again. Both do have faint pleasant odour but one is stronger.
    They came from two different suppliers.
    I'm using Hercolyn D instead of DPG whenever I can. For instance if my blend contains...
  4. Thread: Fixing Stickiness

    by xii
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    381

    Re: Fixing Stickiness

    I have it in two qualities, with weak odour and odourless. The odourless isn't sticky at all the other one tiny little bit sticky.
  5. Thread: Fixing Stickiness

    by xii
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    381

    Re: Fixing Stickiness

    The result of tincturing resins is so random I wouldn't bother.
  6. Thread: Fixing Stickiness

    by xii
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    Re: Fixing Stickiness

    Solve in petrol ether, cold filter, evaporate petrol ether, solve the resulting resinoid in ethanol, cold filter, evaporate ethanol, blend the resulting absolute 1:1 with pine essential oil for easy...
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    Re: right formula sheet and dosages

    Your table may look like this:



    *
    A
    B


    1
  8. Replies
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    Re: tincturing lavender

    I'd like to reduce pigments in extracts. The idea is to break chlorophyll (sunlight or heat) and wash the resulting brown colouring with water. Can it work?
  9. Replies
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    Re: NDA in perfume making?

    There were red flags I failed to notice the very first time I met them. Your responses Bill and Paul pretty much cover the case as I see it now.
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    NDA in perfume making?

    So I presented several blends to a client. Brief being unique and daring. The meeting went OK but the deal they offered included NDA in which I was supposed to waive the claim that the perfumes are...
  11. Replies
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    Re: my new fragrance formula

    Prismantol is a tricky ingredient, perfectly capable of screwing up blends with ginger, nutmeg, conifers etc. At 20% it opens with mild notes of galgant and generic rosemary piney toilet cleaner...
  12. Re: Short Path Distillation and Polar Solvent Extraction

    How large is your still?

    From the plants you mentioned only bay is easy to steam distill.
    Cinnamon and roses are OK but the yield might be too low to separate anything. Cassie bark is easy...
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    Re: Bacon Essential Oil?

    Bacon materials.
    Gras materials.

    As for old people, well, they usually don't smell like woody ambers and raspberry so avoid these.
    You may consider a barbershop fragrance (though recently young...
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    Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Your descriptions seem quite adequate but how would you use these materials?
  15. Thread: Cinnamon top note

    by xii
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    1,012

    Re: Cinnamon top note

    I imagine cinnamon bark CO2 to be tremendous. I have only cassia bark absolute and it's pretty enough, but I can't use it because of levels and deadlines.

    What eventually worked for me was a...
  16. Replies
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    Suederal LT, though a complex mixture, is a raw material for perfumery rather than a carefully composed base. It provides an excellent background for other leather materials. Leather bases tend to...
  17. Thread: Cinnamon top note

    by xii
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    1,012

    Re: Cinnamon top note

    Whatever works. Some people confuse short retention time in the capillary column of gas chromatograph with being top or diffusive or whatever else it obviously isn't. But as long as it helps them...
  18. Replies
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    2,6 - Xylenol makes itself apparent instantly.
    So far I always used it together with Safranal; my last oud accord attempt had
    0,007% Safranal and 0,024% 2,6 - xylenol which felt overdosed and...
  19. Replies
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    2,6 - Xylenol with its medicinal quality is more suitable for simple oud accords than isobutyl quinoline whose herbal character is very hard to conceal. Though good castoreum replacers seem to...
  20. Thread: Cinnamon top note

    by xii
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    1,012

    Re: Cinnamon top note

    Yeah... thanks Bill Roberts. That confirms my suspicion about the bubble gum flavourings.
    I'm fine with IFRA, the cinnamaldehyde makes 0,02% of the concentrate so far and decreasing.
    The materials...
  21. Thread: Cinnamon top note

    by xii
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    Re: Cinnamon top note

    Thanks!

    In fact I am trying to blend something smelling of a generic bubble gum but with little cinnamon residue.
  22. Thread: Cinnamon top note

    by xii
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    Cinnamon top note

    What are the cinnamon materials other than cinnamaldehyde with high top note impact?
    I'm using overdose of cinnamyl cinnamate for the effect but would like to reduce it.
  23. Replies
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    I'm using up to 5% of Piconia in my oud accords but I'm not quite convinced it's needed there.
    Same about Symroxane. To me it smells on its own very similar to low grade oud oils, peppery (with...
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    Re: Cyclomethylene Citronellol ?

    Cyclomethylene citronellol can add body to citrus-floral fragrances composed from powerful materials used in minute amounts.
    For instance in a linden blossom accord alongside muguet aldehydes,...
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    Re: Atlantic cedar & benzoe fractions

    Thank you very much!

    Pears, do you understand fixative mechanism of benzoic acid?

    Currently there is 12% benzoin resinoid, 5% c3h benzoate and 3% hexyl benzoate in my formula. The former, c3h...
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    Atlantic cedar & benzoe fractions

    Do you know materials that smell like top notes in atlantic cedar?
    Same about benzoe?

    I'd like to use the way the two affect the opening but they dull the drydown of the blend I'm working on.
    If...
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    Re: Copycats... Again >:(

    I'm quite glad there are companies offering cheap perfume copies. That, although I haven't ever bought one. Price competition is one of the very scarce mechanisms protecting perfumers and perfume...
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    Re: Extend Longevity of EO Grapefruit and Mint?

    A perfect match to extend both is thiomenthone aka buchu marcaptan.
    Similarly, Palo Santo oil has both mint and grapefruit to it but it is not as easy to blend.

    Otherwise just as Dmitriy wrote,
  29. Replies
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    Ethyl butyrate. But it's also quite cheap. Also, you have Floralozone and Scentenal; both worth having and not really alike but for the purpose of exploring aquatic notes one would suffice. I'd also...
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    With your current project in mind I'd add:

    Amyl cinnamic aldehyde
    Hexyl cinnamic aldehyde
    PADMA
    cis - 3 - Hexenol
    cis - 3 - Hexenyl salicylate
    Bornyl acetate
    Geraniol and/or Rhodinol...
  31. Replies
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    They are nothing alike. Nerolione is a quite strong neroli/orange blossom material. Nerolidol is more tea-like and mild. Nerolidol is a must have. Nerolione not necessarily.
  32. Re: Single Note Pad question -- create new threads for individual musks or roll into existing 1 thre

    I'd add it to the musk thread and PM Asha to include your description in the opening post. Or the other way around.
  33. Thread: Making Fougere

    by xii
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    Re: Making Fougere

    Yeah, Cultural Revolution!
    Some people by their very existence self promote. They transgress by being competent capable and interesting.
    Others are dull no matter how loud they shout.

    What...
  34. Replies
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    By the way. One of my current projects is earthy-mineral, as if mixed with volcanic ash, eucalyptus. Current iteration includes the following materials:

    Eucalyptus globulis EO
    Habanolide...
  35. Replies
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    I'd take habanolide then.
    Lyral is fine. These with Hedione and benzyl salicylate give more than enough room for experiment. Be prepared to fail often though.
    Also, some Jasmin can't hurt....
  36. Replies
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    If I were you I would stick to eucalyptus, grapefruit ylang and try to subtly compliment it to something lasting.
    If I still needed to use rather few rather cheap additional materials I'd stick to:...
  37. Re: Blast from the Past: REALLY recommended especially if fairly new to perfuming but even if not!

    My thoughts wandered along the lines: black holes devour light and matter into oblivion while making quite a splash. Otherwise they're so dense light bends around them so one sees through them as if...
  38. Replies
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    Have a look at pink grapefruit accord posted by perfectscent. Lilial, ionones, Helional and musks in this accord together with decanal will hold an illusion of grapefruit for quite a while....
  39. Re: Blast from the Past: REALLY recommended especially if fairly new to perfuming but even if not!

    Like black holes are drawn to visible matter.
  40. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    This thread is annoyingly catchy. I'm afraid I have no ready insights and having spent much too much time thinking I doubt I'll have any.
    Nonetheless, I went through my perfume collection and...
  41. Thread: Loss of smell

    by xii
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    Re: Loss of smell

    Four months here. In fact today is the second day I can smell anything having had lost it for a week.
    ENT is a good idea. The fact nose is fully free to breathe doesn't mean sinuses are open.
  42. Thread: Ink and Hairspray

    by xii
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    Re: Ink and Hairspray

    Pavomi, Pears, thanks again! I have Apo Patchone and both 2-phenoxyethanol and phenyl propyl alcohol. Will try them all soon.
  43. Re: Looking for materials like Methyl Pamplemousse with longevity

    And Paradisamide.
    Also, you could blend a grapefruit accord with limonene being replaced by geraniol. Worked for me once.
  44. Thread: Ink and Hairspray

    by xii
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    Re: Ink and Hairspray

    Thanks, Paul! I might use you again indeed but first I'll walk to the chemistry department.
    I think I'm sort of aware how phenol smells like if for no other reason than study of Agaricus...
  45. Thread: Ink and Hairspray

    by xii
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    Re: Ink and Hairspray

    Thank you very much!
  46. Thread: Ink and Hairspray

    by xii
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    945

    Ink and Hairspray

    To my nose a simple patchouly, alpha - Irone combination smells like the ink I used to write with as a kid. Nonetheless, I suppose knowledgeable people like RSQ could share some expertise.

    Second...
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    Re: Help on a strawberry accord

    I'm not sure but he might have meant raspberry accord. In which case I'd still try to use very little raspberry ketone.
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    Re: Newcomer, dreaming of new fragrances

    Ah, OK. I had an impression Palo Santo oil was rather random in this otherwise quite standard formula. This material requires extra attention. It clashes massively with coumarins, aromatic aldehydes...
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    Re: Newcomer, dreaming of new fragrances

    mattmeleg, what's the source of this formula?
    Have you blended it?
  50. Replies
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    Re: Newcomer, dreaming of new fragrances

    If you want to stick to natural materials then frankincense is worth trying in large amounts. Patchouly and moss as well and, if you can get a hold of it, vetiveryl acetate natural isolate. For the...
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    Brigitte Bräutigam: Calimbao - Chypre-Fruity

    Let's start with Brigitte's original all natural formula.

    Calimbao:



    Bergamot
    230
  52. Replies
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    Re: how to make notes disappear faster?

    I don't think I understand the subject of the thread. Do you want to make top note of your old perfume sample disappear sooner? If you are really serious about it you could try to run it once through...
  53. Replies
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    Re: What vital materials am I missing?

    I'll try to list some materials I frequently use and didn't find on your list. Whether they're vital, I can't tell.

    Rose related: citronellol, geraniol, phenyl ethyl alcohol, damascones. I still...
  54. Replies
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    Re: What vital materials am I missing?

    Rosy stuff is missing.
  55. Replies
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    Re: Newcomer, dreaming of new fragrances

    I made a light aromatic Palo Santo cologne some two years ago. I can paste the entire formula if you want but I'm not sure it's any good. Instead let me list the key ingredients with approximate...
  56. Replies
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    Re: Possible Grojsman substitutes?

    I wouldn't be so hasty.
    Modern western perfumery, through influence of such giants as Roudnitska, became cerebral rather than anything else. This trend has been running (for some chronology:...
  57. Re: sincere apologies from Matt :-( I read/write too fast... not careful enough!

    BN is not only DIY.

    Note Pad: Single Note Exploration is a very informative subforum with contributions from very capable people, like asha, who made a lot of effort to keep this place orderly.
    ...
  58. Re: Maybe useful: A lot of natural EO GC's, chosen from naturals that Ellena mentions most using

    Nice.
    Coriander fruit is simply a correct (botanically) term for what people call coriander seed.
  59. Replies
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    Re: Long Lasting Linalool Types

    Florosa/Florol
  60. Replies
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    Re: Possible Grossjman substitutes?

    mattmeleg.



    pkiler suggested you were less assumptive and yet you somehow developed the idea he didn't like you.
    I find responding to your posts unpleasant too. One of the reasons, they're...
  61. Re: How and why is the Grojsman accord used in Tresor?

    Some information can be found in the Hug me accord thread everything else worthwhile we'll soon be presented on your YouTube channel. Can't wait.
  62. Replies
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    Re: Possible Grossjman substitutes?

    A fine comment, Bill Roberts. In a nutshell:

    Combining odour descriptors has nothing to do with building any accord. Quote contrary, as the matter of fact.

    To my nose blending Hedione with Iso...
  63. Replies
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    Re: Brigitte Bräutigam: Vahide - Floral-Green

    Aw, Maienfels, was there two years ago.

    I don't mind using strong even overpowering materials. In Vahide formula it seems to reduce other components to green mess.
    By the way, the (synthetic)...
  64. Replies
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    Brigitte Bräutigam: Vahide - Floral-Green

    The original all natural formula:

    Vahide:



    Bergamot
    225
  65. Replies
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    Re: Brigitte Bräutigam: Niagara - Fougère-Citrus

    It's probably a bit confusing. I blended the original formula and then used it at 38% in the second.
    I'll post a nearly synth version of one of the Brigitte Bräutigam's formulas (Calimbao) once I...
  66. Replies
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    Re: Brigitte Bräutigam: Niagara - Fougère-Citrus

    How is it? Well, the original formula is pretty good actually. It is rough and doesn't last but the ingredients harmonise well and the structure is solid.
  67. Replies
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    Brigitte Bräutigam: Niagara - Fougère-Citrus

    In the post about study suggestions Ivor Joedy mentioned the book


    I thought I would take some of these formulas and corrupt them with synthetic ingredients. No particular purpose.

    Let's...
  68. Replies
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    Re: I don't like the term "blender".

    The images are a bit of a fiasco...
    I'll try with words.

    Let's say I want to blend a fig accord. γ-Decalactone some Stemone and perhaps trace of δ-damascone does a fair impression of a fig;...
  69. Replies
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    Re: I don't like the term "blender".

    The vague notion of a blender I tend to understand like this:

    Component A:

    104381

    Component B:

    104382
  70. Re: Fruity Herbacious Gardenia fragrance initial structure

    Some of the MA will bind to aldehydes forming Schiff's bases.

    The maté extract I have though tenacious would be easily overwhelmed by coumarin or vanillin. It might work just fine with sandalwood...
  71. Replies
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    Re: Cherry Accord - found it!

    mattmeleg. The very moment perfecscent posted Cerezoate in your other thread about the cherry accord I looked it up on Bedoukian site and found the accord for which you started yet another thread. As...
  72. Replies
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    Re: Cherry Accord - found it!

    perfectscent found it for you.
  73. Replies
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    Re: Super smelly materials storage . . ?

    I can add that parafilm doesn't work. What I eventually did was diluting the materials to 1% and sinking the smelly bottles with undiluted stock in a larger container filled with liquid paraffin/wax....
  74. Thread: Pear Heart Notes?

    by xii
    Replies
    1
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    715

    Re: Pear Heart Notes?

    Geranyl acetate.

    Have you tried Helvetolide yet?
    I'd also experiment with farnesol and/or ambrette seed oil.
  75. Replies
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    Re: Formula for Criticism

    If I were you I'd try to blend around rhubarb and vetiver first:

    Styrallyl acetate
    Floropal
    Vetiveryl acetate
    Vetiver Haiti EO
    Vetival
    Evernyl
    Rhubofix.
  76. Replies
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    Re: Universal backbone accord from Matt

    Picking up the analogy, I don't seem to like milk. There is way too much milk all over the place. It literally oozes into threads about whiskey and absinth.
  77. Replies
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    Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    When bruised lilac flowers cease to smell nice. They seem to be made very cheap; grassy smelling and quickly oxidising liquid kept in waxy balloons forming petals whose outer layer produces tiny...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Camphor note in Creed viking

    I don't know long lasting lavender materials. Lavender absolute is worth trying though. You might need some careful blending. Patchouly and musk (Habanolide perhaps) could give good base to an...
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    Re: galbanum – enhancing its bite and bitterness

    Must de Cartier does it with bergamot, vanilla/amber an civet among others.
    And I like the idea of green urban scent very much.
  80. Replies
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    Re: Camphor note in Creed viking

    Some options:

    1. black pepper & frankincense (spicy)
    2. lavender & patchouly (earthy)
    3. rosemary & cistus (agrestic)

    Coniferan, Prismantol, sandalwood (Australian) and derivatives of eugenol...
  81. Re: Anyone have personal experience with these materials?

    Unlike Dmitriy I like para-Methoxycinnnamaldehyde most from the list. I used it for instance in a damson jam accord. On its own it smells somewhat cooked like a cherry pie to me. Also, even tiny...
  82. Replies
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    Re: galbanum – enhancing its bite and bitterness

    Following advice of filousoph in one of my projects I'm testing Spirogalbanone and Trifernal for sharp green notes in a blend already containing bornyl acetate, PADMA, Reseda Body, Triplal, Galbex...
  83. Replies
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    Re: galbanum – enhancing its bite and bitterness

    Evernyl, galbanum pyrazine, Corps Racine, violet leaf absolute, mint, ivy base, tuberose EO, ginger, thyme, narcissus base.
  84. Re: Is their a better way to accord formulating than the Jean Carles Method beyond using 2 materials

    There is this idea that by mixing several ingredients in correct proportions the individual ingredients become hard to discern and the blend itself attains novel quality. One example of it is the...
  85. Replies
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    Re: Musk/Amber diffusive-ness suggestion Please.

    mattmeleg, I don't think there is a need for a debate here. I'd certainly add blue to my palette when trying to render human skin but try to persuade 6 years old that skin isn't really pink.
    ...
  86. Replies
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    Re: Musk/Amber diffusive-ness suggestion Please.

    Adding to the list: pink pepper, Angelica (traces), rose, orris/carrot seed, Mayol.

    (Definitely aldehydes are worth trying.)
  87. Replies
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    Re: Okoumal and Adoxal EU/UK

    Thank you very much, pavomi!
    I suppose I won't be able to create an Okoumal replacement before I have actually smelled it. Nonetheless, I can at least test the ingredients you mentioned in formulas...
  88. Re: Is their a better way to accord formulating than the Jean Carles Method beyond using 2 materials

    This way would be daft, wouldn't it?

    I suppose all perfumers develop routines. I thought it wouldn't harm to mention mine.
    In a nutshell, once I blend something meaningful I give it a name bottle...
  89. Re: French + Italian Vocabulary for Scent Description

    Ditto.

    Perhaps éclat which has something to do with splendour thus doesn't faithfully translate to radiance. Humiecki & Graef played with the word éclat in their "Blask" which is an equally...
  90. Re: Is their a better way to accord formulating than the Jean Carles Method beyond using 2 materials

    If you are somewhat conscientious there is no worse blending routine than JC method.

    "Is there an easier way of working out ratios between oils when using the Jean Carles Method?"

    Apart from...
  91. Replies
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    Re: Lilac solvent extraction

    I've attempted a solvent extraction with pentane. A fiasco. The waxy substance comes from petals so separating the green parts won't help. More importantly, the extract turned out to be of a very...
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    Re: anosmia is my nightmare

    I wouldn't bother about Aldron. Just be very careful with it. Clothes you accidentally spill some of Aldron upon will keep smelling of sweat and urine to some people even after several washings.
  93. Re: Whats the oddest, rarest natural material you used in a perfumes?

    I've extracted Hōjicha, Japanese roasted tea, with dimethyl ether. This should be my oddest natural.
    Aw, and I distilled Vietnamese coriander whose oil is composed mainly of two C12 aldehydes.
  94. Re: which labels and odors of functional products studied?

    I like Rituals. They offer perfumes which I consider mediocre, therefore some of their shower and wellness products are irresistible to me. Unfortunately, they replace their product lines frequently.
  95. Replies
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    Re: advice on my next order

    I don't really know what to do with these two cedar materials. They smell fine and I did try to used them but so far always ended up with using cedar oil. I like Z11 and Tobacarol but again they...
  96. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    I think I have been misunderstood. I wrote:



    in hope a short not really polemic statement will be less likely to get twisted into something I didn't claim. Apparently I was wrong. So let me...
  97. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    I definitely agree PW perfumery school seems inferior to, say, ISIPCA. I also agree that especially we, DIY-ers, should be encouraged to look up to excellence without compromise. But there aren't...
  98. Thread: Acrylate

    by xii
    Replies
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    926

    Re: Acrylate

    I considered propionates after the same line of thought. Not quite what I hoped but propionates are already playing a big role in my green project. Some propionates seem to be quite spectacular....
  99. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    In defence of PW training, it might connect better with local perfumery tradition, more spiritual, less exact and predating the western one by millenia.
  100. Replies
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    Re: Powder as an effect

    First of all odour descriptors aren't universal; what I'd call fruity could be floral for someone from different spot on Earth. gandhajala brilliantly tossed here on Basenotes a term frames of...
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