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  1. Re: Why that musk? Ethylene Brassylate vs Galaxolide

    I think you are asking about the flattening effect some Base note materials can have if added at too high a dosage. I believe that this can happen, and commonly with musks. Why not try an...
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    Re: Penhaligons english fern

    Imperial Leather is another Fougere, but with a leathery spicy twist. Still based on Bergamot, Geranium and Lavender.
  3. Re: Why that musk? Ethylene Brassylate vs Galaxolide

    I would guess that even though someone is anosmic to a particular musk the effect would be noticed in a fragrance. I have great difficulty in smelling Benzyl Salicylate on a smelling strip, but can...
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    Re: Guaiacwood melting

    Have you tried mixing the Guaiac with the same amount of solvent (such as Benzyl Benzoate) and then warming it gently. It should dissolve more easily.
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    Re: Penhaligons english fern

    English Fern is a traditional Fougere based on Bergamot, Geranium, Lavender, and Moss. The accord found in Green Irish Tweed, Cool Water, and countless others is missing from it. Be aware that...
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    Re: Need help with.....

    I didn't understand the original question, and I don't understand your reply, Paul.
  7. Re: Why that musk? Ethylene Brassylate vs Galaxolide

    You can make a very nice accord with Aldehyde C14, Cedarwood Virginian and Ethylene Brassylate. I find Ethylene Brassylate to be overly fruity, but that could be advantageous in this case. Very...
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    Re: Frankincense to turpertine accord

    No idea what is meant by a "paint note". The smell of paint depends on the solvent used, and there are many solvents used. Linseed Oil, Turpentine, and many, many more. A lot of Turpentine sold...
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    Re: Frankincense to turpertine accord

    Lime Oxide may be too crude, it is used in many household products as it is very stable. Maybe a small amount could work, but why not use Lime oil instead?
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    Re: Frankincense to turpertine accord

    Why would you want to emphasise a turpentine note? Try Aldehyde C12 MNA, rather than lauric, plus Labdanum.
  11. Re: Start! : How Scent Trunk Developed Their Product

    Despite claiming to be revolutionary , there is still a division between Masculine and Feminine fragrances. Why? If I want this company to select a fragrance for me, with my help, why must I be...
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    Re: Aldehyde c-7 & C-13 alternatives

    For aldehyde C7 you could try Hexanal (C6) or Octonal (C8). For Tridecanal you could try Aldehyde C12 lauric.
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    And I am sorry I snapped at you. It's just that you seemed to want to make this game something else entirely. If you wish to participate you are very welcome. The only rule is to use the notes...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    The aim of this exercise is not to duplicate the original fragrances , which is why I have not told anyone what they are. The aim of the exercise is to create fragrances containing a specific set...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    If that is what you want to do that's cool; but it is not what this exercise is about. I don't want to dampen your enthusiasm and if you are enjoying what you are doing that is great, and I'm sure...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    You should write out each formulation as you work, then if you make a trial which goes wrong you can go back without losing anything. So. for example, you have trial 2 and you have the formulation...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    * From where?
    ** I have absolutely no idea what this means.
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    Using your painting analogy, if you want to make a colour sparkle, you paint its complementary next to it (Blue, with Orange etc.). Of course it depends on what "lovely singing notes" you have. ...
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    Re: Lift Jasmine Sambac Absolute

    Ylang goes well with all types of Jasmin, as does Galbanum oil which is really green. Petitgrain oil contains the same pyrazine that is in Galbanum but also has a slightly citrus character. As...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    How do you know what the two fragrances are when I have not yet revealed their names? If you think you have any ideas please keep them to yourself.
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    Re: Glucam P-20 or Hedione (kharismal)?

    Absolutely. Wanting it does not make it so.
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    Re: Diluting Frankincense

    Benzene is never used as a solvent; it has been banned as it is a carcinogen. It used to be used, but that has changed may years ago. If your supplier is using Benzene he should be prosecuted.
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    Re: Glucam P-20 or Hedione (kharismal)?

    There is no "magic effect".
  24. Re: Basic question: how do you pick your notes?

    Bernie your ingredients look fine, although there are many (Chypre accord, Green Grass Fresh cut) that I am not familiar with. As Paul says, unless we have a vague idea as to the proportions we...
  25. Re: Can perfumers control sillage or longevity?

    I couldn't have put it better, thank you Dr S. However if you are dealing with a ready made "Fragrance Oil", and you have absolutely no idea what the formula is, and do not care; how n earth can...
  26. Re: UK perfumers: Sources for Perfumers Alcohol??

    Google "Denatured Alcohol", all will be revealed.
  27. Re: Basic question: how do you pick your notes?

    Don't bother with IPM. Before playing, learn your ingredients.
  28. Re: UK perfumers: Sources for Perfumers Alcohol??

    Denatured alcohol is ethanol. The only difference is that it has something added to it to make it non-potable. Some denaturants smell, others don't, so choose the right one.
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    Re: Honeysuckle accord

    Sorry to disagree with you Paul, but I much prefer the smell of Indolene. Indoflor has the advantage of stability and non-discolouration, but I find its smell to be somewhat crude compared with...
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    Re: Honeysuckle accord

    I'm surprised at that. Indolene is the reaction product between Indole and Hydroxycitronellal; called by some a Schiff's Base, although it isn't. It tends to be more floral than Indole, and a...
  31. Re: Can perfumers control sillage or longevity?

    No.
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    Re: my perfume does not last ???

    I'm getting a really strong sense of Deja Vu.
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    Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    I wouldn't freeze, just cool (others think differently). So the Frankincense was not that soluble in DPG, thus the cloudiness.
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    Re: Hot pepper scent

    Never heard of, seen or smelled Green Pepper EO. Who produces it?
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    Re: Hot pepper scent

    Galbanum pyrazine, which I assume is 2-methoxy-3-isobutyl pyrazine smells very green, and indeed is found in Galbanum. Diluted it smells like green Bell Peppers, not chilli. Sishuan pepper could...
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    Re: Honeysuckle accord

    Only in so much as it doesn't discolour. I have used Indolarome but prefer the smell of Indole; at a pinch you could use it.
  37. Re: What is in an aftershave that makes it an aftershave and not an EdC / EdT

    IFRA differentiates between fragrances for undamaged skin, and fragrances designed to go on abraded skin (i.e after shave). So modern aftershaves may well have a different formulation. Various...
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    Re: Honeysuckle accord

    You beat me to it. I still would add some Indole to the above.
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    Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Cloudiness usually means a solubility problem. If you are using a Benzoin resinoid it will have been diluted, probably with Benzyl Benzoate or Benzyl Alcohol. This could be causing the...
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    Re: Honeysuckle accord

    No Indole? I'll get back to you tomorrow.
  41. Re: Bath products - surfactants and emollients. General comments.

    So long as that is all you kill!
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    Re: Favorite Birch Tar Synergies?

    Make a leather base using Methyl Ionone, iso butyl Quinoline and a touch of Birch Tar. It works well in Fougeres, especially the more traditional types. Leather with Rose, and Galbanum is...
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    Re: Cinnamon (bark) oil repleacer

    Sorry but I know nothing about buying small quantities of oils or chemicals. When I was working this was not problem.
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    Re: Hot pepper scent

    Try a touch of Cumin oil.
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    Re: Cinnamon (bark) oil repleacer

    Methyl Cinnamic aldehyde is the best alternative. Also try Cinnamic Nitrile (aka Cinnamalva).
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    Re: Vanilla Top Note Help

    How strange. If they all have the same Cas Number, that implies they are all the same chemical; which means that the differences are due to trace impurities (maybe).
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    Re: Vanilla Top Note Help

    I had always assumed that Ultravanil was synthetic . It used to be sold by Quest before they were absorbed by Givaudan. I always found it very difficult to use; far too smoky for my tastes.
  48. Re: The Implausibility of the Vibrational Theory of Olfaction

    I think that the weakness of this theory is assuming that there is only one receptor per molecule. Recent work has indicated that there are several per molecule. From my own experience the pure...
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    Re: Favorite Birch Tar Synergies?

    Dilute it to a manageable level; maybe 0.01%. Try it with floral notes; Rose, Jasmine, Ylang. You will be surprised.
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    Re: longer lasting davidoff cool water

    Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein? Very similar to Cool Water. In my experience very strong, and long lasting.
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    Re: Candle, exploration and Scent blend

    Candles don't need too many Absolutes, or resins. CO2 extracts should work. Don't use Coconut. I hope you don't mind using synthetic solvents as iso Propyl Myristate or diOctyl Adipate are the...
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    Re: Molecular WT. and Vapor Pressure

    I would have thought that if you have a smelling strip with something you can still smell after a couple of months it is safe to assume that the substance may be classified as a Base note. If you...
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    Re: Molecular WT. and Vapor Pressure

    Forget Vapour Pressure, and Molecular Weight. Dip and smell over days (or longer), and then you will know how to classify any material yourself.
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    Re: Vanilla Top Note Help

    Milky is the one. I don't know what the difference is chemically, but I do know that there is a Sulfurol that is used as a Chicken flavour (that'll be Meaty). Never heard of Bean. Any clues...
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    Re: Vanilla Top Note Help

    The reason I suggested Javanol is that it is very strong and diffusive, and Sandalwood notes go well with Vanilla. By the way it is "Sulfurol"
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    Re: Alcohol - food grade or not?

    If you are happy with the alcohol you are using, why change? It isn't like you are going to drink your fragrances is it?
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    Re: Mystery French Extrait/Fond

    I don't think that the old bases were as complex as this mystery fond, but if you mix several together you end up with either mud, or if you know what you are doing, a work of genius. Guerlain,...
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    Re: Vanilla Top Note Help

    Don't replace all of the Vanillin with Ethyl Vanillin. Add some Ethyl Vanillin together with Vanillin. And please don't forget the Top note chemicals I mentioned, they will make a big difference.
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    Re: Trailing Arbutus?

    Could smell a bit like Lilac. I'm sure that there are many more chemicals present which will shift the fragrance considerably. mumsy's suggestion seems to be a good one (as usual).
  60. Re: Just about everything you wanted to know about CITRUS!

    Maybe "dangerous" is too strong and emotive a word, Pears; what would you replace it with ? I think spreading misinformation can be dangerous, and often causes problems. Somebody reading this...
  61. Re: Why Do Manufacturers Discontinue Great Fragrances?

    This, and only this.
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    Re: Mystery French Extrait/Fond

    Suppliers of the raw materials used to sell many more Bases than are sold today. Rather than selling a specific chemical, it would be wrapped round and hidden in a base. The Aldehyde C14 used in...
  63. Re: Just about everything you wanted to know about CITRUS!

    I find such sites dangerous. If you are going to provide information make sure it is true. Reading a sample of the site you recommended and finding so many errors made me cross. I would also...
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    Re: Proportions in a fougere accord?

    May I suggest that if you already have Geranium, Lavender and Bergamot oils you do some experimenting for yourself. Firstly dip each one separately and smell them over a few days to see how they...
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    Re: Vanilla Top Note Help

    Ethyl Vanillin is stronger than Vanillin, and so should come through earlier. Then for a creamy top try some Acetyl Methyl Carbinol, or some Sulfurol. A touch of Javanol should help too.
  66. Re: Just about everything you wanted to know about CITRUS!

    No comments then Christine?
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    Re: Mystery French Extrait/Fond

    mumsy has spread her generosity far and wide; and in this direction too! What a wonderful surprise. I love the smell of this mystery French base. It starts with a very rich Jasmin with hints of...
  68. Thread: Flouve

    by David Ruskin
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    Re: Flouve

    I haven't smelled Flouve abs for over 20 years, so cannot really remember much about it. What I can remember is that it wasn't like Hay, but much sweeter and fruitier. Almost like stewed plums. ...
  69. Re: Basic question: how do you pick your notes?

    God, you're good!! You have such a good way of expressing yourself, you would make a very good teacher, I think.
  70. Re: Basic question: how do you pick your notes?

    I really don't want to dampen your enthusiasm so I don't want you to stop mixing. But try to do it in a simple and experimental way.

    I would have thought you could easily dip ten or so...
  71. Re: Basic question: how do you pick your notes?

    jfrater, the answer to your question will be a lot easier to find once you have started to familiarise yourself with the ingredients you will be using. Sorry to bang on about this, but I cannot...
  72. Thread: Speed

    by David Ruskin
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    Re: Speed

    At the moment, I don't think Basenotes could be much slower. It has taken me five goes to log on, and even now it is painfully slow. Please do something about this; please.
  73. Re: First attempt at something wearable...

    Have you dipped Aldehyde C14 and Aldehyde C16, so see how long they last on a smelling strip? Read as much as you like about Perfumery, Perfumes and Raw Materials, but nothing replaces smelling...
  74. Re: First attempt at something wearable...

    To be really pernickety, Aldehyde C14 and Aldehyde C16 are not aldehydes at all. Don't ask me why they are called "Aldehyde", they are.

    First of all with your fragrance , allow it to settle...
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    I'm sorry to hear it. QC is a big problem.
  76. Re: Any perfumer ever use putrescine or cadaverine in a scent ?

    Then why bother?
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    Thiomenthone is really strong; I used to use it at a 0.1% or even 0.01% dilution.
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    Words are so important, aren't they?
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    Re: Dandelion scent

    Thanks Paul, I've never tried to find a supplier; and why would I?
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    As Dorinia is a Firmenich base, why not go onto the Firmenich web site and look at the ingredients they have to offer; or have you already done so?
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    Can't do without DMS if you want to make a Lychee base.
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    Givescone is not a replacement for Rose Oxide, I'm afraid. Ribes Mercaptan, which smells of Blackcurrant (or Cat Pee), is not a replacement for DMS. DMS, in concentration smells of cabbage (not...
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    Re: Breaking into the Fragrance Industry

    Lauren, I wish you well. May I suggest that you write to as many fragrance houses as you can think of. Get in touch with as many folk in the Perfumery industry as possible. Make yourself known,...
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    Look at all of the Damascones, and Damascenone; they are strange and powerful beasts. Rose Oxide, and maybe some Raspberry Ketone. A touch of Camomile and Dimethyl Sulphide ( a very light touch)...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    So sorry to hear that you have been unwell ; hope you bet better soon. Nothing to stop you carrying on when you feel like it.
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    Re: Why we have trouble describing smells...

    An equivalent hat I heard of many years ago. Cultures that do not live in an environment with many straight lines (living in a jungle, living in dwellings that are round etc.) do not have our...
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    Re: Dandelion scent

    I'm afraid I don't know any sources. However I Googled Styrallyl Acetate and the Good Scents Company web site showed many suppliers. I would imagine it would be the same for isoButyl Quinoline. ...
  88. Poll: Re: Have you ever experienced an allergic reaction to a fragrance?

    It is highly unlikely that anyone will be allergic to an entire fragrance, but not others. A fragrance will contain thousands of individual chemicals, and it is to the chemicals that one reacts. ...
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    Re: Dandelion scent

    For bitter green try Styrallyl Acetate (Methyl Phenyl Carbinyl Acetate) and a touch of isoButyl Quinoline.
  90. Replies
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    Blimey! I do hope we can organise that everyone can smell each others fragrances, but it is going to be a bit of a job. Thank you everyone for being so enthusiastic.
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    Sorry Mr. Adam if you are impatient, I quite understand. I promise all will be over by June. If you wish to send samples then go ahead.

    Igdelrosario, no need to give us the formula yet. I...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    I will reveal the two identities in the middle of May. I think you can still carry on working after you know what fragrances A and B are, as the object of the exercise was not to copy but to use...
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    Re: Why we have trouble describing smells...

    I don't know the answer to that. When we know for sure the mechanism of smelling, both in the nose and our interpretation in the brain we might be able to. I guess when two or more smells mix...
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    Re: Elderflower accord

    This is not uncommon. Pyrazines can be detected at incredibly low levels, many Sulphur containing chemicals too. To do a proper matching job a Sniffer should be used. Very often the line will...
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    Re: cis-3-hexenyl acetate smell change

    The only odour change I can think of when leaving cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate on a smelling strip is slight oxidation. It could be that you are beginning to smell some free Acetic acid, Vinegar.
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    I hadn't really thought about smelling the samples when the game is over. If people wish to send me a sample then PM me for my address. When mumsy was in charge of the Zeno game, she seemed very...
  97. Re: Tonquitone vs Exaltone vs Shangralide

    They are not the same. Shangralide and Tonquitone are attempts at copying natural Musk; both are very good, neither are exactly like natural Musk. Shangralide used to be based on Galaxolide, but...
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    Re: Mixture Suggestion HELP!!!!

    You have been given guidance. You do not need to add water, or DPG, or "fixative". If you insist on using the products from this company then simply dilute the Fragrance oil in ethanol at 20.0%. ...
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    Re: Vinyl smell ?

    If you handle Phenol, please be very , very careful. It is really nasty stuff.
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    Re: Expressing Orange Peels

    Orange oil is one of the cheapest used in Perfumery, usually about 1.00/Kg, or less. I have heard that soaking the peel in warm water before grating can produce more oil, but it is still going to...
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