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  1. Replies
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    Re: DIOR!!!!! What have you done?????

    Adding this about Dior reformulations: when they "repatriated" the formulas to produce the fragrances from A to Z, there may have been specific qualities of raw materials to which they no longer had...
  2. Re: New Artisan parfumeur - Séville à l'aube

    I'm doing a preview sample draw of Séville à l'aube on Grain de Musc for people who've bought "The Perfume Lover"... http://bit.ly/Ldkn1E

    And Bertrand Duchaufour and myself will be in London on...
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    Re: DIOR!!!!! What have you done?????

    Hilaire, I couldn't well have mentioned the upcoming Louis Vuitton perfume in my blog post, since the information wasn't available at the time, but I stand corrected on the specifics of the...
  4. Re: New Serge Lutens Exclusive line parfume for 2012! Any guesses?

    As September launches are coming in fast and furious, I really haven't had the time to give this more that a quick sniff. I'd like to compare it with Santal Blanc and Santal de Mysore before doing...
  5. Re: New Serge Lutens Exclusive line parfume for 2012! Any guesses?

    Next Lutens export is Santal Majuscule, out in September 2012. Official: I've got the bottle in front of me!
  6. Re: Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent by Jean-Claude Ellena

    I think the disappointment some readers may feel, or their dismay that this is not a more personal or engaged book, stems from the collection for which it was originally commissioned. The "Que...
  7. Re: New Fragrance: Parfum d'Empire Azemour- Les Orangers

    Azemour is a satisfyingly hefty, almost chewy orange/orange blossom chypre with an interesting salty tinge and a lovely, complex evolution until the very drydown... Rather than repeat myself, if I...
  8. Re: I still don't know what oud smells like after trying many kinds of oud in fragrance and pure oud

    I am just now researching an article on oud for a French magazine. There are two reasons why oud does not smell the same from one product to another. One is that the oud note in an overwhelming...
  9. Re: Report from Guerlain's Journées Particulières in Paris

    Mr. G, did you get a chance to smell the demijohn that used to contain Tonkin musk tincture? I think the most intelligent thing I managed to say for ten minutes after that was:...
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    Re: Why I love Bertrand Duchaufour.

    Not sure that's a page he put up himself. The quote is lifted from an interview I did of him last year.
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    Re: "A New Perfume" by Comme Des Garcons

    I've been wearing this for a few days now. The packing tape accord is stunningly vivid, yet somehow blends with a big lilac and sweet pea bouquet. The bottle is actually quite lovely in its blobby...
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    Re: Get Your iFrag On!

    Thanks for the shout-out! I also hope "iFrag" catches on. This is the Grain de Musc post where I introduced it, and it kind of naturally popped up in our conversation.
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    Re: Paris Fragrance Shopping Excrusion

    DJRon -- so happy my little shopping guide was helpful! Sounds like you had a great time, and I am absolutely floored by your amount of energy!
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    Re: What makes a "Master" Perfumer?

    As far as I've been told, anyone can self-style his/herself "master perfumer": the title was actually given in some oil houses to some of their top perfumers after years in the trade, but otherwise,...
  15. Re: Most sensual Sécrétions Magnifiques again

    Thank you kccparis. I've dropped out a little from the online community because I am currently writing a book (on perfume, what else) for Harper Collins and there just isn't enough time in the day to...
  16. Re: Most sensual Sécrétions Magnifiques again

    Kccparis, thank you for linking to my interview with Antoine Lie. I've been a member here for quite a while though I'm a very infrequent poster. Just wanted to say that Muse in wooden shoes is a...
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    Re: Paris Perfume Tour?

    Hi Elizrj, I'm glad my little itineraries sounded so tempting to you... I don't actually do "Perfume in Paris" tours, but I was considering putting something together with the London College of...
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    Re: Shiseido vs. Lutens...

    One word: IFRA. The reformulation was done by Serge Lutens and Christopher Sheldrake as best they could. The bottle was Shiseido: now that Shiseido has stopped carrying it under its own label, it...
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    Re: Boxeuses - Serge Lutens

    I've never worn Un Bois Sépia so I couldn't tell, but the leather in Boxeuses reads clearly from the outset and remains pretty stable throughout. The patchouli is more of a drydown deal.
  20. Re: Strange Question...Do Perfumers have a Technique....

    I've never seen any perfumer perform any sort of "nose-clearing" ritual. I do the sleeve-sniffing thing, and that's what I recommend for my students, but as many people here have already said, the...
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    Re: Boxeuses - Serge Lutens

    Okay, now it's online... and there's a draw for a sample. Review of Boxeuses: click here.
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    Re: Boxeuses - Serge Lutens

    Sorry, haven't marked the thread to get the new comments on it... I haven't written the review yet, but it's coming soon. Didn't want to post it too much ahead of the launch and writing my book is...
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    Re: Recognizing Other's Fragrances

    There are quite a few best-sellers and classics I spot regularly in the streets and public transportation system of Paris. Angel and Shalimar are the most ubiquitous -- at least a dozen times daily,...
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    Re: Fragrance and Hair

    I always spray fragrance on my hair (worn in a chin-length bob). It does last much longer that way, and also diffuses better and gives more sillage. I also get a different effect than when I spray it...
  25. Re: New Fragrance: L'Artisan Nuit de Tubéreuse (Late Spring 2010)

    @ Doc Elly: The wet-cardboard effect is actually one of the facets of tuberose absolute (it's also perceptible in cassie absolute, for instance) that Bertrand Duchaufour wanted to play on, rather...
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    Re: Forbes article: Most Expensive Perfumes

    It's relatively easy to smell of something other people won't recognize: you'll get that from the best niche houses, provided you shy away from the best-sellers (say Mûre et Musc or L'Eau d'Hadrien,...
  27. Re: Coeur de Vétiver Sacré by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Smelled it again this afternoon -- still no samples, but this time I got violet quite distinctly along with tea notes. Definitely needs to be tried on skin.
  28. Re: Coeur de Vétiver Sacré by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Bertrand Duchaufour wasn't involved in this one at all, and as far as I know isn't working on any vetiver for L'Artisan. His next one for them is a leather scent, coming out this fall, inspired by...
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    Re: Comme des Garcons - Wonderwood

    I've only tried Wonderwood a couple of times on skin and I find it overwhelmingly sandalwoody, so much "milkier" in its smokiness, with hints of dried fruit. None of the pine one would expect after...
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    Re: Boxeuses - Serge Lutens

    I've been holding back my review of Boxeuses until it gets a bit closer to the launch date, I'll probably be posting it in a couple of weeks... To me it is essentially a leather and Prunol...
  31. Re: Any Annick Goutal fans? What are your favorites from the line?

    It's celery. The note is meant to pick up a celery facet in one of the components of jasmine, cis-jasmone. I believe it was added to give a twist to the "mushroom" facet of gardenia. I quite like it,...
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    Re: Let's talk FRUITS n VEGES!

    The new I love les Carottes by Olivia Giacobetti for Honoré des Prés (which I think will be coming out in London in June) is a remarkable.. carrot smell, with real orris butter to bolster it.
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    Re: Pure Parfum application.

    I guess I'm the only one who uses sterile plastic pipettes to take out a drop? Either that or I decant a bit in a 2 ml mini-atomizer.
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    Re: Email sent to: IFRA

    I would also suggest flooding the brands with letters about reformulations. The only thing that would get IFRA members to stand up is customer dissatisfaction.
    Stephen Weller, whom I met and...
  35. Re: Serge Lutens New Releases: Bas de Soie & Boxeuses; Cuir Mauresque for export...

    Great review of Bas de Soie by Octavian Coifan on 1000fragrances. And Serge Lutens spoke to me a bit of the two fragrances in his usual, cryptic and witty manner in this interview...
  36. Re: Inside the actual house of Serge Lutens...

    A patio, a fountain, greenery, birds... most of the time, it's my idea of paradise! Though truth be told, Mr. Lutens' house does seem stifling judging from the pictures in W, and from the reports of...
  37. Re: Inside the actual house of Serge Lutens...

    Of course, this is what many Westerner's houses in Marrakech are: Orientalist interpretations. The funny thing is that every time a Western decorator comes up with a new idea based on their ancestral...
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    Re: Where is Dioressence?

    Sadly, the new Dioressence is literally NOT the old one. Dior don't have the formula, and/or don't care to get it, so they pretty did something else -- this from an evaluator at one of the big labs....
  39. Re: Inside the actual house of Serge Lutens...

    In the Medina (old town) of Marrakech, there are no outside views. Palaces as well as modest dwellings are behind the walls that form the alleys of the city. You can't see them, except for the doors:...
  40. Re: The Decline and Fall of the French Fragrance Empire.

    I've recently counted the number of French perfumers involved in the various top ten bestseller lists in different countries, and they are still the majority. If you look at niche houses, not...
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    Re: Vetiver + florals

    Manoumalia by Sandrine Videault for LesNez has a strong vetiver note along with a creamy, tropical bouquet of fagraea (a gardenia-tiaré type blossom), ylang-ylang and tiaré, on a sandalwood and amber...
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    Re: Reference Tuberose?

    Suga, you were mentioning wanting to try the new L'Artisan Nuit de Tubéreuse... I cannot recommend it highly enough, it's an amazing composition based around tuberose absolute, but the operational...
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    Re: Iris Gris?

    @Sugandaraja: I don't think TPC ripped you off. I remember when Diane nabbed the bottle on eBay: I was watching it and met her in Paris soon afterwards. But I don't think it's a matter of the top...
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    Re: Iris Gris?

    Where did you smell it?
    What you describe is absolutely nothing like what's in my bottle. It's a little different from the batch at the Osmothèque, where the iris is stronger, but not considerably....
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    Re: Iris Gris?

    I own a bottle of the original Iris Gris, found boxed and sealed in a flea market, and I beg to differ: I find it extremely beautiful and very modern. If it came out tomorrow in, say, the...
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    Re: Reference Tuberose?

    I'd agree Carnal Flower is the best reference tuberose, but I'd suggest also trying out Annick Goutal's Tubéreuse for a good feel of what the actual absolute really smells like: it's practically...
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    Re: New Niche Line: Atelier Flou

    The perfumer for Atelier Flou, Jacques Chabert, was the assistant of Henri Robert (the predecessor of Jacques Polge at Chanel and the author of Pour Monsieur, Cristalle and N°19). That alone should...
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    Re: New Guerlain launches in 2010

    To set the record straight on Arsène Lupin: there will indeed be two versions of the fragrances, but BOTH are by Jean-Paul Guerlain (and not by Mr. Guerlain and Thierry Wasser as previously...
  49. Re: Thierry Mugler quits fashion, lauches new perfume "Womanity"

    I've just smelled Womanity and can relievedly report back that it doesn't smell fishy at all. In fact I've smelled the caviar accord used in the fragrance and it's salty, a bit leathery and slightly...
  50. Re: Thierry Mugler quits fashion, lauches new perfume "Womanity"

    Thierry Mugler quit fashion at least eight years ago. But I wouldn't discount the new fragrance. Though I loathe Angel and I'm not crazy for Alien, the Miroir des Vanités collection was excellent,...
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    Re: Parfums de Nicolai - favorites?

    The two I own are Le Temps d'une Fête, a lovely green floral with an ambery drydown, and Odalisque, which has got an intriguing salty note in its white floral bouquet. I own the old formula but I've...
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    Re: Parfum de Therese- worth trying?

    Oh dear. I really shouldn't reply to threads before my fifth coffee.
    As an aside, the current Dioressence is to be avoided at all costs: it hasn't been tweaked -- it's not even the same formula as...
  53. Re: New Fragrance: L'Artisan Nuit de Tubéreuse (Late Spring 2010)

    Vincennes, you're right, I should pop in... See if he takes me for a blogger. Which SA in niche shops usually suss out in about five minutes. After all, the shop is on the paths I stalk...
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    Re: Parfum de Therese- worth trying?

    Of course it's worth trying, like any fragrance by Edmond Roudnitska (by the way, just saying: Miss Dior was composed by Jean Carles and Paul Vacher, the only pre-Poison era Dior not done by...
  55. Re: Pierre Montale - What did he do before ... Montale ?

    Comptoir Sud Pacifique. Not a rumor. Fact.
  56. Re: Bond No. 9 demanding PerfumedCourt stop selling decants

    Wasn't Bond N°9 also behind -- at least in part -- the decision to ban decants from eBay? I seem to remember there was quite a kerfuffle about it at the time...
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    Re: The Grand Refrigeration Controversy

    I was very strongly urged by Sylvaine Delacourte at Guerlain to keep my extraits and rarer vintage scents in the refrigerator, as well as the natural raw materials I use for my courses. So that's...
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    Re: A*men; Why Angel Men?!

    Yes, it was simply a matter of copyright.
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    Re: Limitations of Language

    I could expand on the cultural reference simile: one of the reasons that make it difficult to learn a new (verbal) language is that certain sounds are distinguished in some languages and not in...
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    Re: Looking For A Jasmine Scent For A Man

    I'd second Jasmin de Nuit, whose spiciness balances out the floral aspect, and of course Eau Sauvage.
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    Re: Limitations of Language

    Oops, double post!
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    Re: Limitations of Language

    Fascinating subject indeed, and one that perfumers themselves have to struggle with, since there are almost no olfactory-specific words.

    I find it easiest to think of a given raw material as a...
  63. Re: What does Caron mean by "restoring" perfumery?

    It's a translation from the French. As a rule, I find that French perfume houses don't seem to use professional translators: it always seems as though someone in-house said "Hey, I speak English!"...
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    Re: How much is perfume a French artifact?

    Thanks! Amouage really have two different lines, the French-inspired one and the Arabic style -- I can't judge how classical the latter is because I don't have much knowledge of traditional Arabic...
  65. Re: With Le Labo, Are You Risking Batch Variations by Having Fragrances Made Individually?

    I've always thought this was a questionable gimmick aimed at giving the customer the impression of... customization. Perfumes need to macerate for at least a month after the concentrate, alcohol and...
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    Re: How much is perfume a French artifact?

    Jaime, I'm also a language teacher, as well as a translator, among other things (girl's gotta eat). Oddly enough, I've done all my writing career in French and only started writing directly in...
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    Re: How much is perfume a French artifact?

    To get back to the original debate of the post, and to tie in with our conversation on Montale and Amouage: I wrote a short essay on Jubilation 25 a little while ago in which I wondered whether the...
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    Re: Stéphanie Bakouche

    Confirming the info. Stéphanie can often be found working at the L'Artisan Parfumeur flagship store next to the Louvre, if you should ever drop by there.
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    Re: How much is perfume a French artifact?

    Pierre Montale founded (and later sold) Comptoir Sud Pacifique. A French member of the Beauté-Test forum says Mr Montale told him so and said he was working with the same team of perfumers as he did...
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    Re: How much is perfume a French artifact?

    Actually, for jasmine and rose, it's easy: the only two houses who can afford the ones grown in Grasse are Chanel and Patou, for N°5 and Joy in the extrait. That's it.
    The jasmin de Grasse does have...
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    Re: How much is perfume a French artifact?

    Very little is grown in Grasse these days, though lots of materials are still processed there. But it think it's not as much a matter of agriculture as of culture: five centuries of fine...
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    Poll: Re: ... The Fight of 3 great Vanilles ...

    I'm not a vanilla lover -- at least for vanilla "solinotes" -- and Havana Vanille is the only scent in this family, with Jean-Claude Ellena's Vanille Galante, that doesn't feel cloying to me. As...
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    Re: I prefer the NEW Mitsouko greatly !!!!!

    I find the parfum, at least, goes through an unpleasant plastic-note phase. And harsh seems to me to be the very opposite of the Jacques Guerlain smoothness... If I were discovering it today I might...
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    Re: I prefer the NEW Mitsouko greatly !!!!!

    I am in the throes of collecting as much vintage Mitsouko as I can (pre-2005). I'm happy for those who find the modern version nicer: I'd rather not have had to deal with the loss. Indeed, throughout...
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    Re: How much is perfume a French artifact?

    As Bigsly and Rogalal have noted, perfumery has been steadily moving away from French taste, and the classical French style, for going on three decades now: in fact, ever since the industry itself...
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    Re: How much is perfume a French artifact?

    But don't forget that Comme des Garçons Parfums is art-directed by a Frenchman, Christian Astuguevieille, and that several of the perfumers who worked for the house are French and/or French-trained...
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    Re: How much is perfume a French artifact?

    Excellent topic! I've been giving this some thought as well. I can see three main reasons.
    One is that Louis XIV and his minister of finance Colbert deliberately put in place a policy to make France...
  78. Re: L'Artisan Nuit de Tubereuse-I've tried it

    And that's just the beginning: he's working on so many things I haven't even had a chance to smell all his projects, but there are a couple of leathers in the works.

    Will more perfumers take his...
  79. Re: Indoles.. love them and hate them... now I know why?

    Often, indoles are added when a white floral note is "reconstructed", ie when perfumers don't use much of the natural essence (though I doubt this is the case with the Amouage). And oddly, if you...
  80. Re: L'Artisan Nuit de Tubereuse-I've tried it

    I think that what's most interesting about it is that it hollows out the creamy, coconutty aspects of tuberose, which are usually very prominent. The green facets are also treated differently, less...
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    Re: Une Fleur de Cassie and Cassie / Mimosa

    I consider Une Fleur de Cassie to be one of the best fragrances of the past 20 years, but the Frédéric Malle SAs, at least in Paris, tend to say that it is a "connoisseur's scent": it's not as easy...
  82. Re: Indoles.. love them and hate them... now I know why?

    As gardenia essence is extremely costly to extract (in fact I only know of one small, artisanal supplier) the scent is always re-created with other materials, but gardenia are indolic like all white...
  83. Re: Whats your oldest scent? (When do they expire?)

    Some of my oldest bottles go back to the 40s (no, I wasn't around, I buy vintage). A couple (N°5, Iris Gris) have made it through the decades fairly intact. Others have lost their top notes and give...
  84. Re: Indoles.. love them and hate them... now I know why?

    Indoles by themselves don't smell of faeces: they have more of a mineral quality, like mothballs or hot tar before a storm. The animalic facets of flowers can come from other things. For instance,...
  85. Re: New Fragrance: L'Artisan Nuit de Tubéreuse (Late Spring 2010)

    @Galamb_Borong

    Not a hint of those vinegar or myrrh notes you mentioned. And notice that Bertrand Duchaufour was quick to rectify my remark about "mouldy": he said "rooty" was more accurate.
    Nuit...
  86. Re: New Fragrance: L'Artisan Nuit de Tubéreuse (Late Spring 2010)

    I'm afraid JAR is off my radar. I'm put off by the whole idea of the ceremony involved in smelling them at the shop... However, I'm not getting any wet cardboard off Nuit de Tubéreuse: the moist...
  87. Re: New Fragrance: L'Artisan Nuit de Tubéreuse (Late Spring 2010)

    I hope you won't find it inapppropriate for me to toot my own horn, but I've just posted a review of Nuit de Tubéreuse (the first one to make it online as far as I can tell), along with an exclusive...
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    Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Clearly, by "mistress" you mean "courtesan" -- those women who made or broke male reputations, since to keep a famous courtesan or to be ruined by one established a man's standing.
    I was re-reading...
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    Re: Guerlain Meteorites - Perfumer?

    Terracotta Voile d'été was actually by Mathilde Laurent, so there's a good chance that Meteorites was as well since it's from the same period and she was also doing all the Aqua Allegorias. Of course...
  90. Re: The Death of a Classic Perfume (terrible news)

    I noticed the change in Opium before Christmas in the Paris Sephora of the Champs-Elysées, and actually let out a yelp of surprise when I smelled the strip. I even sought out another tester bottle to...
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    Re: What value ISIPCA??

    Baykat, Vero's perfumes are coming out soon in eau de parfum form. The formulas have been modified a little, but they reflect the original compositions very well, and make them more wearable. They'll...
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    Re: What value ISIPCA??

    ISIPCA training has good points and bad points.

    The good point is that when you undergo it, you learn to do a lot of things that it takes years for a self-taught perfumer to accomplish: in the...
  93. Re: Dissecting niche: do we need a new term for the one-man, one-woman "houses" out there?

    I'm not saying Ellena's compositions are better than the classics you quote (though I would take them any day over Cool Water or Tommy Girl, but that's a matter of taste). In fact, there's...
  94. Re: Dissecting niche: do we need a new term for the one-man, one-woman "houses" out there?

    I'm a very infrequent poster here (all of three comments) but I've been following this discussion. The term niche, which as The Good Life points out is a marketing term related to the distribution of...
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    Re: Pure Oud By Kilian - impressions

    By Kilian Pure Oud uses Givaudan Orpur Agarwood. From what I've gathered, Orpur designates a top quality natural material that has been treated to remove harsher facets -- the method is applied to...
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    Re: LVMH vs Octavian Coifan

    Now I have a better overview of the whole affair and I can state that there is no lawsuit threat against Octavian Coifan.
    Blogger.com, at the behest of Guerlain, asked him to remove the picture of...
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    Re: LVMH vs Octavian Coifan

    Dear Basenoters, some of you may know me as the author of the blog Grain de Musc. I can't recall having posted on Basenotes but this affair concerns a dear friend of mine, Octavian.

    First of all,...
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