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  1. Replies
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    Re: An amber accord

    Hi Shalimis,
    I might add some frankincense to give the accord a little more structure.
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    Re: An amber accord

    Thank you Trufflehunter. I'll explore. I agree with you about the frankincense.
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    Re: What make it sexy?

    I find civet to be almost indispensable. Unfortunately, civetone and some of the other synthetic musks and musk absolute (Hermitage sells one) don't have the sweet delicacy of the tincture. And, of...
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    Hermetic Bottles

    Hermetic bottles for essential oils and absolutes. I've been having difficulty storing these things without them evaporating over time. I've taken to storing my blended oils (those combined with...
  5. Thread: Civet

    by James Peterson
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    Re: Civet

    It's a pity that these synthetics have so little to do with the smell of natural civet. Natural civet has a delicate almost fruity aspect that while somewhat urinous and fecal is engaging and...
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    Re: freezing fragrances

    Thanks for the advice. I'll get back in the lab.
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    Re: freezing fragrances

    I have a problem with my naturals and aroma chemicals evaporating even though they're tightly sealed in small bottles with plumbers' tape wrapped around the top. I now keep them in the refrigerator...
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    Re: The problem with sweetness

    I've had luck with vanilla tincture--my own batch made by soaking a quarter pound of ground up Bourbon vanilla beans in just enough alcohol to cover and let sit for several months--and while this...
  9. Re: Classic perfumery accords and other basic exercises

    Oh, I'm sorry if I was confusing. I, too, never put ambergris with anything but ethanol (except for one small experiment with some oil). I just find, even after the ambergris tincture has evaporated...
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    Re: An amber accord

    I've put together an ambra accord from Jellinek. It has a lot of elements I like if being a tad too citrusy. All the ingredients here, except the ambergris (3%), are dissolved to 20% in ethanol....
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    Re: An amber accord

    Of course. One problem is that the dilutions are done by volume, counting a certain number of drops and then finishing with alcohol. Since the viscosity varies for each compound, this isn't a very...
  12. Re: First Experience with Real Oud (Oud Yusuf)

    I'm an oud lover from way back and am approaching the recommendations of Mohammed to spend a third of one's salary on scent. I, too, have collected a number from Ensar Oud and have found them...
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    Re: An amber accord

    Hi Paul, Everything is at 20%. Is that bad?
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    Re: An amber accord

    Oh, I'm sorry. Everything is diluted to 20%. That's pushing it for coumarin such that I have to warm the bottle slightly to get it to dissolve.
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    Re: An amber accord

    Is there any relationship between an amber fragrance and the ambreine accord? I love my ambreine accord and it seems very oriental to me. It reminds me of my mother's Shalimar. It's simple: 3 drops...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    No, I don't find that ambergris smells like amber at all. It has, rather, a kind of isopropanol smell, but that sounds pejorative. The smell is irresistible and dries down to a vaguely animalic,...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    I've only worked with ambroxan and grisalva. My notes are old, so I can't give you exact amounts, but very small amounts were needed to get a kind of ambergris effect. If the quantities needed to be...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    I tried adding some ambergris--just a few drops of 3% tincture--to the Grossman accord and was pleasantly surprised when the aroma of the ambergris was delightfully prevalent.
  19. Re: Classic perfumery accords and other basic exercises

    I agree. The cheap price is suspect. On the other hand, after tincturing (6% solution) for 3 months, it smelled of the classic isopropyl alcohol smell (but much richer and more complex). It seems to...
  20. Re: Classic perfumery accords and other basic exercises

    Oh yes. I've discovered that if I just put a few simple things in alcohol and then spray them, that I can get wonderful results for what I would probably call an "eau fraiche." I usually orange...
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    Re: Longevity

    Dear Odeon,
    Thanks for the tip. I'm going to experiment with my 50% sandalwood complex and compare it with my 20% version (the one I have for sale).
  22. Re: Classic perfumery accords and other basic exercises

    I don't think I'll ever be able to find samples old enough. My vision for my scents is the aroma of my mother when she would go out for a party. She liked a lot of the Guerlain perfumes, but...
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    Re: Longevity

    I find there's no need to grind it first--it's surprisingly soluble. I leave mine in the sunlight and find it takes about 3 months to reach it's first maturity.
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    Re: Longevity

    Sure. In fact it should be shaken from time to time. But once it has completely dissolved and you're only left with some gunk on the bottom of the test tube, you want to let it settle so that you can...
  25. Re: Interaction with White Lotus Aromatics

    Yes. It was just a a mix-up.
  26. Re: What do you seek to convey in a sandalwood note ?

    Ah, you sold me some of that stuff and it's magnificent. I don't dare use any of it, but I sniff it regularly to know what sandalwood is supposed to smell like. There's a certain greenness which I...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Shrimp paste. It's normally heated in the wok with a little oil before the other ingredients are added. It's a really funky smell but it transports me to those odoriferous restaurants in Bankok. A...
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    Re: What make it sexy?

    I've found that phenyl acetic acid and various phenyl acetates when combined with musks, give them an animalic effect that makes the musk more like natural musk. Civet, if I could use it.
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    Re: Longevity

    I just put it in a test tube with alcohol (ethanol) and let it dissolve. It almost immediately started to fall apart in the alcohol. What I would do, if you really want to be accurate, would be to...
  30. Re: Classic perfumery accords and other basic exercises

    I, too, ordered the ambergris from Medicine Flower. When it arrived in a small bottle I was taken aback. I called them to ask what it was and they said it was a CO2 of ambergris. It does smell fecal...
  31. Re: (Another Sandalwood thread) VINTAGE Sandalwood suggestions plkease

    I don't know if I'm allowed to do this--it might seem like self promotion--but I've been lucky enough to hit on a sandalwood accord that's the best "fake" sandalwood I've ever smelled although in all...
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    Re: Longevity

    What I did was order raw ambergris from a place in New Zealand and tinctured it myself. It goes for $25 a gram, so when you think about tincturing it, a gram would make about 33 ml. of tincture. I...
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    Re: Longevity

    I've been experimenting with ambergris. I've found that it lends an ineffable finesse to the finished perfume. As concerns fixative properties, however, I'm going to have to run some tests. I've...
  34. Interaction with White Lotus Aromatics

    Several days ago I made a comment that the people at White Lotus Aromatics were "very unpleasant to work with." I must retract this comment. We worked out our differences and they very kindly sent me...
  35. Thread: Hedione

    by James Peterson
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    Re: Hedione

    Hi Todd, Thanks for the tip. Will try; my anosmia to hedione is really crippling.
    Jim Peterson
  36. Re: Ambrette seed products, price variation

    Oh no. The order was over $300. I mistakenly thought that I had never received some essential oils I had ordered. I emailed them three times to try to clear up the situation. When I didn't hear from...
  37. Re: Ambrette seed products, price variation

    White Lotus Aromatics also sells an ambrette seed essential oil, but it has no aroma and it isn't cheap. They are also extremely unpleasant to work with.
  38. Re: Ambrette seed products, price variation

    I was once ordering ambrette seed from White Lotus Aromatics but find that it has no aroma, at least none that I can detect. Has anyone tried it? Or am I anosmic? (Unfortunately, they're also very...
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    Re: Ambrette seed oil supplier

    Unfortunately the quality of the ambrette seed oil from White Lotus isn't what it once was--the aroma is hardly perceptible--so I've stopped using them. (They're also very unpleasant and difficult to...
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    Re: Ambrette seed oil supplier

    I, too, am looking for an ambrette seed e.o. (not CO2) supplier. I was using White Lotus Aromatics, but because the quality isn't what it once was, I have stopped using them. Any recommendations? I...
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    Re: Frankincense help please

    Has anybody bought frankincense from Qanaat Trading in Singapore? It has a very special balsamic quality without the usual lemony top notes. I find it smells unlike any frankincense I've ever...
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    Re: Best way to dirty up a fragrance?

    I rely on civet to dirty up florals. I haven't had luck with any of the artificial substitutes which smell aggressively fecal to me. I find that benzyl phenyl acetate adds an animalic and honey-like...
  43. Re: Interested in trying Mysore Sandalwood oil as a fragrance, what to expect?

    I'd be interested.
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    Re: Cannabis in perfumery

    Thank you Pears for your tip about the rosemary oleoresin. My tincture has remained green and fresh after a month in the fridge. The old one was brown and stale by now. The aroma smells, well, like...
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    I've come up with a sandalwood that smells (to me) pretty authentic. However, when I smell sandalwood perfumes, they don't really smell like sandalwood but rather peoples' expectation of what...
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    Re: Natural fruit notes

    Did anyone mention cassis? It smells like the real fruit (and a good kir) to me.
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    Re: Dried Human Saliva Scent

    Barbara Herman (Scent & Subversion) discusses using Azurone for its "saliva aspect." I've never used it. Just thought I'd pass it on.
  48. Re: Immortelle Absolute into solution...?

    Thirty percent solubility sounds pretty high. I would guess that heating (and subsequent super cooling) might be the answer. Don't heat it directly, but in a hot water bath unless you want to blow up...
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    Re: Good heliotope

    Thanks Chris. What a can of worms. I asked Vigon for samples of all three of their versions (including the "natural" which is ten times the price of the "synthetic.") So I went to place an order for...
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    Re: Amber-Grisea, old instruction...

    I have seen references (in Jellinek, I think) to using alkali in musk tinctures to help them mature. I've never heard of it in ambergris tinctures. Tempted to try a little alkali. Very dilute sodium...
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    Damescenone

    Does anyone have experience with damascenone? I see it called for in a number of formulae and wonder how it compares with the damescones.
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    Re: Fecal notes

    Yes, mine is strong too. I wish I could get the dried gland as that seems more authentic. But I don't have any complaints at this point with what I have.
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    Re: Orange Blossom Absolute Suppliers

    Has anyone tried the J. Steele Orange Blossom absolute? It's more expensive than all the others so of course I had to order it. It hasn't arrived yet.
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    Re: Orange Blossom Absolute Suppliers

    Paul, thanks for the indole tip.
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    Re: Good heliotope

    Sometimes my pop-up blocker won't allow me to read private messages.
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    Re: Good heliotope

    I've sent a note to Vigon asking them for samples of each one before making the big buy. If the natural smells better (and I can't imagine a significant difference) than I'd want that.
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    Re: Good heliotope

    Vigon lists 3 heliotropin including a "natural" heliotropin that's 10 times the cost of the synthetics, about $1400/kg for the natural. But if enough people went in on a kg… If we had 10 people who...
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    Analytic Balances

    Does anyone know what the best brand of analytic balances is? I have some on line but there are many different brands.
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    I haven't had any luck with pink lotus absolute. Even Enfleurage's doesn't smell like much.
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    Re: Fecal notes

    If it's of interest to anyone, I make my own castoreum tincture from beaver gland puree that I buy from a trappers' site. It smells comparable to a sample I bought from ilprofumo.it. I have a...
  61. Replies
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    Re: Fecal notes

    I bought some civet paste from an Italian company--profumo.it--and have tinctured it to 2 dilutions. It has a lovely almost irresistible fruity fragrance but is still plenty funky. It's not fecal at...
  62. Replies
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    Orange Blossom Absolute Suppliers

    I have been trying to track down the best orange blossom absolute. I had a bottle from Shiva but have since found out (via basenotes) that those are not pure absolutes. I recently bought some from...
  63. Replies
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    After spending hundreds of dollars on blue lotus "absolutes" and finding them odorless, I figured I was anosmic to this flower. That was until I smelled the blue lotus from Enfleurage, in Greenwich...
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    Re: Must Have Equipment for your "Lab"

    What do people feel are the best brands? I tend to want something simple but of very high quality.
  65. Replies
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    Re: Cannabis in perfumery

    Hi Pear, So it sounds like my tincture may very well turn color but won't loose its "fresh" smell.
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    Re: Gardenia accord

    Who is Poucher? Is there a place I can get his books?
  67. Replies
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    Re: Cannabis in perfumery

    I'm retesting the tincture, this time with the rosemary resinoid (ROE). It's only been a week or two and the last time it took about a month for it to turn brown. I'll let everyone know once I've...
  68. Re: I need help with synthetics for some concepts smells!

    I particularly like holy basil. I think it has more estragol (if that's the one I'm thinking of) and it's spicier (eugenol?) than regular basil.
  69. Replies
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    Re: Good heliotope

    Does anyone know where to buy heliotropin? I know it's restricted but so are a lot of things and I was hoping that there were people still out there who sold it. I got mine from Vigon, but that was...
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    Re: Must Have Equipment for your "Lab"

    I bought a scale that weighs to the hundredth of a gram but have now realized that that isn't accurate enough for small quantities. So I'm looking at the next step up--scales that measure up to a...
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    Re: Heliotrope accord

    I'm unfamiliar with veratraldehyde, but have had some (minimal) experience with heliotropin. I find that as much as a smell, it's almost a texture--like breathing in a surface covered with dust and...
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    Re: Heliotrope accord

    Of course, Paul.
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    Re: Drops/mL

    I find that the viscosity of the oil/absolute has a lot to do with it. If I measure out 20 drops of thick oud it's going to be a lot more than a milliliter; conversely, delicate oils seem to form...
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    Re: Weak cedar accord

    I've been searching for andrane but am not having any luck. Any ideas? Thanks.
  75. Re: Need your opinions regarding, Eden Botonical Essential Oils

    They have the best orris butter (15% irone) that I've been able to find.
  76. Sticky: Re: IFRA Standards - Discussion thread (Temporary partial version)

    While I know the IFRA controls most perfume ingredients, what about things like musk ambrette, costus, cade oil, tagettes, etc? Are there other regulations that control these?
  77. Replies
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    Re: Weak cedar accord

    Dear Doctor,
    Thanks for your tips. Do you know where andrane and animals can be found? And I'm not sure what you mean by IMHO. Sorry if I'm being obtuse.
  78. Replies
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    Re: Handsome, manly bottles?

    If you're just looking for one bottle, try Oleg Cassini's crystal bottles. I was able to get an almost perfect cube-shaped bottle in heavy crystal, for 8 dollars.
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    Re: Agarwood smoke

    Colette describes opium as smelling like burning chocolate. It has a sweet scent when burning (a rather earthy, soil-like, vegetable scent when raw). See the opium entry in my blog jimcooks.com/blog.
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    Re: Heliotrope accord

    This may not be relevant, but the accord between heliotropin and orris is divine. I guess it's the central accord in Apres l'Ondée.
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    Weak cedar accord

    I've come across a really lovely cedar accord using a mixture of dihydro ionone beta, vertofix, kephalis, cedryl acetate, cedar (Himalayan), sandalwood, frankincense (a special sweet kind), and...
  82. Replies
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    Re: Frankincense - sweet?

    I'm tincturing some frankincense and have come up with a yellow and very sticky liquid without too much aroma. I can imagine it would work as a fixative, but other than that I'm hard pressed as to...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Supporting labdanum as base note

    Oh, you're right. I have the resin. Is it of any use? Should I track down the resinoid?
  84. Replies
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    Re: Base note

    Natural musk
  85. Replies
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    Re: Supporting labdanum as base note

    I continue to be confused about labdanum. I have cistus labdanum absolute which is virtually solid. I also have labdanum resinoid which smells slightly lemony or herbal but not particularly balsamic...
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    Thanks Chris. I love your philosophy--all the roads of glory lead to the grave.
  87. Replies
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    Eew. Scary. I didn't realize they were carcinogenic. I've been working with them rather carelessly. What happened to all those people who used them in years past?
  88. Replies
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    Re: Frankincense - sweet?

    I've gone ahead and ordered some. If it's the same stuff I have, then it's a very helpful tip. Thanks.
  89. Replies
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    I hope this doesn't seem like a silly or irrelevant question, but what do we mean by "banned?" Does this mean if we use these materials that the police will come and confiscate everything? Or does...
  90. Replies
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    Dear Pears,
    I can't really recommend substitutes for the old musks since I use the old musks as they are. I love musk ketone, musk ambrette, and musk xylol for their various effects (say nothing of...
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    Re: Cannabis in perfumery

    Oh, that's a great tip. I didn't realize there were natural anti-oxidants I could use for stabilizing perfume. I'll look for rosemary oleoresin extract. Does it have an odor?
    Thanks,
    Jim
  92. Replies
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    Re: Brooklyn Playmate

    Let me know when you come to Brooklyn and we can set something up.
    Jim
  93. Replies
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    Re: Brooklyn Playmate

    Hi Semanticnoise,
    Where abouts do you live? I live in Boerum Hill.
    Jim
  94. Replies
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    Yes, I use musk ambrette that I bought at a trappers' site. I have a bad habit of using prohibited materials.
  95. Replies
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    Re: Heliotrope accord

    Thanks Chris. I'll keep this in mind as my heliotropin (and benzaldehyde) reserves dissipate. That's a great tip about oxidizing benzyl alcohol.
  96. Re: How hard is it to get into fragrance creation?

    I save all my experiments in little vials--I have over a thousand now--so that I can go back and smell things with a better trained nose than I had at the time. Some of the stuff I thought was great...
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    Re: Brooklyn Playmate

    Wow, sounds cool.
  98. Replies
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    Re: Brooklyn Playmate

    Dear Ion,
    Sorry for taking so long to respond; I get lost tooling around Basenotes. I'd be flattered to smell your perfumes but do keep in mind that I'm not really a perfumer--just a beginner...
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    Re: Cannabis in perfumery

    I made my own tincture which had a lovely fresh cannabis aroma but after about a month it turned brown and lost its fragrance.
  100. Replies
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    Re: Making ambergris tincture

    I simply add the chunks of ambergris to alcohol and heat the mixture and watch them dissolve in a matter of an hour or so. Of course one must be careful heating alcohol--I make a bain-marie by...
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