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  1. Replies
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    Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    I would not be able to say.
    There are several/many fragrance oil suppliers.
    Too many companies are willing to steal from real Perfumers.
  2. A very nice comparative GC analysis of Cedarwoods: Texas, Virginia, Chinese, Atlas, and Himalayan

    https://perfumerflavorist.texterity.com/perfumerflavorist/november_2019/MobilePagedReplica.action?ajs_uid=1138G4724801H8V&oly_enc_id=1138G4724801H8V&pm=2&folio=30#pg35
  3. Re: Good formulas to help a beginner get better?

    Another Paul Here:

    Let me just say that you need the Tony Curtis book.
    It is decades newer in information than the Poucher book.

    And I suggest that you buy the book directly from the...
  4. Replies
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    Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    He said it when he split from DUA.
  5. Replies
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    Re: Symrise perfumers compendium

    Call and ask for it?
    I've gotten Symrise in NYC on the phone a few times, been sent this Compendium, and sent an original sample of old stock Mousse de Saxe, you just have to get on the phone and...
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    Re: Looking for Oud like sweetness

    Benzaldehyde is restricted, due to being a drug precursor.
    I have a supplier who knows and trusts me, so I filed DEA paperwork with them and they sent it out.
    I don't know of anyone who will sell...
  7. Thread: A little help

    by pkiler
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    Re: A little help

    Frankincense 5
    Bergamot 10
    Cedarwood 15
    Rosewood 10
    Orange cold pressed 3
    Ylang Ylang 2
  8. Replies
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    Re: How to work with Galaoxolide?

    Using it at 50% is very common...
    I've even seen commercial GC results, that have the exact same amount of Galaxolide and DPG, So I know that even compounders use it at 50%.
  9. Replies
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    Re: Symrise perfumers compendium

    Perfumers Compendium for both IFF and Symrise.
    Interior pages for Symrise Perfumers Compendium below.

    112656

    112657
    The material title is in Silver ink, a little hard to photograph, So I...
  10. Replies
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    Re: Looking for Oud like sweetness

    Simply by looking over GC results from Oudwood testing results, two that stick out for me as sweet are Benzaldehyde, and 4-Methoxybenzaldehyde.
    There are likely others there, but so many of the...
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    Re: Room spray with 3 ingredients

    well, yes, you can likely use only alcohol...
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    Re: How to organzie oils and aroma chemicals?

    My Dad was the recipient of the massive OCD dose in my family. Fortunately, I was not. LOL!

    But since I'm the only one who has to work in there, (unless I have an apprentice here), it's my own...
  13. Replies
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    Re: Room spray with 3 ingredients

    Just remember, even for distilled water, that water is life. Bacteria can grow in water.
    I would add inhibitors for that purpose.
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    Re: How to organzie oils and aroma chemicals?

    I'm not sure I am the right person to respond, but I'll tell you what I do.
    I follow the way that my brain thinks, which is associatively.
    So, I have baskets holding thoughts/types/notes/groups....
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    Re: Room spray with 3 ingredients

    Maybe, try it and see if it meets your expectations.
    You will likely need an antibacterial in there too, if using that much water.
    What is your propellant?
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    Re: Milk Lactone Solubility

    Have you purchased and diluted Butter CO2?

    https://www.edenbotanicals.com/butter-co2.html
    https://www.sunrosearomatics.com/products/5086-butter-co2-se-extract/...
  17. Replies
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    Re: Milk Lactone Solubility

    I would not use CO2 products, as some of them already have alcohol and perfume concentrate solubility issues, depending upon the material.
  18. Replies
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    Re: Milk Lactone Solubility

    I've seen the same item come as either solid, or liquid, from different suppliers. That of course, is not really related to differing solubility, just to illustrate differences.

    I do not have any...
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    Re: Group buy for GC/MS

    The last time this was tried, everybody who participated got ripped off. Honestly, no one here knows you. You have zero trust engendered from residency here, or in any other forum...

    There are...
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    Re: Rubbing alcohol is fine for making perfumes

    Have you smelled high proof Vodka?
    Mostly, pretty similar.

    Placing small amounts of high volatility high impact aromatic materials can often mask much of the very short lived alcohol smell.
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    Re: Milk Lactone Solubility

    You've looked over the page on TGSC for this?
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1037801.html

    Says soluble in Alcohol.
    (Not that either TGSC or Vigon are right all the time).
    But I dont...
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    Re: right formula sheet and dosages

    112524

    This is what it looks like with a good Excel sheet
    With any amounts added, they always add up to 100%.
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    Re: A most dry/dried musk at low volatility?

    The only musk I can think of that *might lean to "dry", would be habanolide. I won't comment on others mentioned, as they are not musks.
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    Re: Fixing Stickiness

    You could distill it, if you like. You can freeze filter, too, but maybe not so effective.
  25. Replies
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    Re: Rubbing alcohol is fine for making perfumes

    Well, looking over the specs, it seems like it might be fine...
  26. Re: Hmmm, What makes Ammonia? I have an Ammonia note appearing in the bottle headspace.

    Since Philip Kraft disagrees with you about the acid type, I'm gonna have to go with one of the chief chemists at Givaudan, giving me his thoughts and tips.
  27. Re: have you smelled the new Armani perfumes? do they have access to materials we don't have?

    Methyl Anthranilate, specifically, and any aldehyde will react, cold, in solution, by themselves, after blending, to make a new molecule, plus a water molecule.
    Sometimes also will react with...
  28. Re: Hmmm, What makes Ammonia? I have an Ammonia note appearing in the bottle headspace.

    Amberlyst 15, Ion Exchange Resin beads, dry, finally got here:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRoKRxCH-Oc
  29. Re: have you smelled the new Armani perfumes? do they have access to materials we don't have?

    I am making single molecules, often quite large, through a Schiff Base making process. I'll be scheduling a class here this winter if you'd like to come for the weekend. It will be a start to...
  30. Re: Left-handed women's quirk over sense of smell

    :dankk2:
  31. Re: pre make your alcohol. so what actually should be put inside?

    I had a long response, but it seemed more like a rant than informative, so I ditched it.

    You are asking two different questions. One is fixation of contents Yet to be blended in, an one is...
  32. Re: have you smelled the new Armani perfumes? do they have access to materials we don't have?

    If even (One Man Company) PK Perfumes, with it's dedicated staff of one chemist, has captives reserved for use by the Perfumer/Chief Chemist/Beaker Washer/Trash removal Expert/Janitor, then every...
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    Re: Free Florals: The EBook sponsored by Berje

    Also posted here: :-)
    ...
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    Re: Old time perfume

    Ambrettolide, a musk, as Bill mentions, can be extracted from a natural, and is, I think $35,000 per kg. if I remember rightly from my conversation with Christine.

    Synthetics are not nasties.
    ...
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    Re: That is IMPOSSIBLE ?!? Oakmoss gcms

    Ah, So then, I must be mistaken... Evernyl being the trade name for methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate, I assumed that it was not naturally occurring, thanks for the info...
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    Re: Banana Nut Bread

    have you learned well to consult the The Good Scents Company database?
    It can be accessed easily and searched through this portal:
    www.perfumersearch.com
    They also have an odor index, which allows...
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    Re: That is IMPOSSIBLE ?!? Oakmoss gcms

    It is very good to be attentive in your path of learning, success is easier to achieve.
    And also very good to understand the molecules inside of the naturals that we use. Too many Natural Perfumers...
  38. Re: Changes in the perception of the mix depending on the ambient temperature.

    That is a very odd first post. And has nothing to say about the topic of this thread.
    Your purpose and agenda?
    You sound like someone who's been banned, and your feelings were hurt, and you're...
  39. Re: have you smelled the new Armani perfumes? do they have access to materials we don't have?

    Yes.
  40. Replies
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    Re: Improving top notes

    Bobbywood, just understand that at 28 DROPS, your sample size is all of about 1.25ml.

    That is minuscule. That size sample allows for zero shading and refinement, when one drop is 4% of a formula....
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    Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Depends upon if you already dilute your other materials as a rule.
    You may know, that as a rule, I do not dilute, but formulate at full strength for most things.
    I have dilutions of these percents...
  42. Thread: ThePerfumery

    by pkiler
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    Re: ThePerfumery

    I think that these waxes are primary for Mandy Aftel's Wax perfumes, as well.
  43. Replies
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    Re: Ambergris sources/legality?

    I've seen ambergris absolute, but not a "resinoid" , but maybe they are pretty much the same.
    If you want to learn and experience ambergris, and can afford it, and trust this supplier, why not try...
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    Re: Old time perfume

    All Natural is OK. But making it last well is difficult. That's why Deer musk, civet, and Ambergris were so prominent, because they were natural fixatives.
    The other side of Natural vs single...
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    Re: Ethanol not mixing oil

    Yes, Mr. P., some CO2's do not fully dissolve, and if you use fatty acid ethyl, or methyl esters, you can get the totality of the CO2 dissolved. (Ethyl linolenate, Ethyl linoleate, ethyl...
  46. Thread: ThePerfumery

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    342

    Re: ThePerfumery

    Many waxes too from HBNO. Cheap because of limited demand and use.
  47. Thread: Ethyl malthol

    by pkiler
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    Re: Ethyl malthol

    I have not so far succeeded, however, to make a Musk Ketone and MA Schiff base. It must need an obscenely high and prolonged heat to get it to work. ? ? ?
  48. Thread: Ethyl malthol

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    571

    Re: Ethyl malthol

    For Methyl Anthranilate schiff bases, I only use the microwave if the aldehyde is a crystal or powder.
  49. Thread: Ethyl malthol

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    571

    Re: Ethyl malthol

    Alcohol heats/boils quite quickly in the microwave. So if you heat say, 5-10ml/g, use only a burst of 5-6 seconds. The bottle will feel much cooler than the fluid is inside.

    I do use the...
  50. Re: Boosting Cashmeran ( And other restricted notes )

    If you want to stay within the ridiculous guidelines, then you have to find a way to make your accord compliant. Sometimes, you just can't do what you want to do.
    You must choose to compose...
  51. Thread: Ethyl malthol

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    571

    Re: Ethyl malthol

    This is why I don't even bother to dilute this, and many other crystals. I simply place them into the concentrate, and let them dissolve into the rest of the concentrate.
    Ethyl Maltol is stubborn...
  52. Re: Where to get same size photo of perfumes for website?

    My Comment is not about the Perfumes, or their photographs, but copyright law as it applies to using images without the permission of the copyright holder.
    If you have purchased usage rights from...
  53. Re: Hmmm, What makes Ammonia? I have an Ammonia note appearing in the bottle headspace.

    I wanted to post a follow up to this whole discovery process. This has been a vexing problem.
    I now have three ways to fix it.

    The Best solution is what will be solution three, but modified by...
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    Re: Good perfume organ for beginners!

    Hello Will, I will say that your lovely organ needs a piece of plastic, stainless steel, or glass on top of that wooden desk.
  55. Replies
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    Re: NDA in perfume making?

    In my experiences of being both Photographer asked to give up all rights to my work, or something like this case, the price just tripled or quadrupled. This is because those people are very...
  56. Replies
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    Re: Safety Questions

    My entire laboratory is in my house, in what should be a formal dining room. No problems, except that the house smells of whatever I am working on. Most of the time, people come in and say our...
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    Re: My first ingredient order, yay or nay?

    Looks like a pretty good plan. Order that, and it will keep you busy all year, learning them...
  58. Replies
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    Re: Stranded with 10 kg of aroma chemicals

    I'd probably only need two kilograms, one of Ambrocenide, and one of Ambermax
  59. Re: The 'Dark Blue/Purple' Note in Blackcurrant?

    I think what you may be looking for are certain isobutyrates.
    But color descriptions and perceptions are extremely subjective and personalized.
  60. Thread: Vortex mixing?

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    521

    Re: Vortex mixing?

    When I think of vortex, I think of the vortex that forms when you use a magnetic stirrer on higher speeds and a balanced stirring rod, (as opposed to an unbalanced rod that you can't run fast. I...
  61. Replies
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    Re: The Deepest (Nondescript) Aroma Available?

    Civettone, L-muscone, Muscone, Muscenone, and Silvanone Supra are all in a family of odor type smells for musks.
    How much you use kinda depends upon your budget.

    You could be using between 0.25%...
  62. Replies
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    Re: The Deepest (Nondescript) Aroma Available?

    There are many single molecule musks available. Many smell different from each other.
    There are several Natural Musks.
    These Naturals certainly smell different from each other.

    If you want to...
  63. Re: Ethyl phenylacetate / patchoulyl acetate / Aftel ????

    I can't speak to how Ethyl Phenyl Acetate is produced as a natural, but there's an awful lot of suppliers on TGSC of Ethyl Phenyl Acetate natural.
    PellWall sells natural acetylated Patchoulyl...
  64. Replies
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    Re: The Deepest (Nondescript) Aroma Available?

    Honestly, to be odorous in a perfume, to me, everything is describable.
  65. Thread: Replacer

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    562

    Re: Replacer

    Copying someone else's fragrances are immoral. Please tell your customers to hire a real Perfumer, and create original scents, instead of stealing from other more creative and experienced Perfumers.
  66. Replies
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    Re: amber woody top notes??

    I think of Koavone as more Ionone, than either woody or ambery.
  67. Replies
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    Re: Where to group buy NPD reports?

    Maybe you could tell where you wish to establish your business?
  68. Replies
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    Re: Where to group buy NPD reports?

    Npd?
  69. Thread: Lemon Accord

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    1,015

    Re: Lemon Accord

    An educated analysis of Lavender EO, based on a very common standard and available material, Lavender 40/42, Linalool content goes between 30-35%, for the two GC tests I reviewed. Linalyl Acetate...
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    Re: That is IMPOSSIBLE ?!? Oakmoss gcms

    I'm not sure what you are trying to do. But you are not really going to be able to reconstruct an Oakmoss absolute from single molecules, they just aren't available for purchase.
  71. Thread: Vortex mixing?

    by pkiler
    Replies
    7
    Views
    521

    Re: Vortex mixing?

    Do you mean vortex mixer like this?
    https://www.facebook.com/PKPerfumes/videos/574525266056852/

    If yes, this is simply a magnetic mixer.
  72. Replies
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    Re: That is IMPOSSIBLE ?!? Oakmoss gcms

    Lichen extracts as raw materials in perfumery, Part 1 Oakmoss, Daniel Joulaina* and RaphaŽl Tabacchib
    Flavour and Fragrance Journal 24, issue 2, 49-61, 2009

    Joulain D., Guillamon N., Casazza A....
  73. Re: Nooby: Greenish Home-Frag/Roomspray attempt with limited ACs

    Use TGSC for your research, and obtain the knowledge necessary to gain your answers. :-)
  74. Re: When it says 'Vegetable Emulsifier' in the ingredients of a room spray- what does it usually mea

    The emulsifier is there to make the oils and water mix. The modifying word "vegetable" is likely there to just make it sound more friendly and less chemical.

    Without a gc test no one can tell you...
  75. Thread: Lemon Accord

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    1,015

    Re: Lemon Accord

    Since Parker is on my ignore list, his post was brought to my attention.
    I can only say that there is good reason for Parker's posts to be on ignore.
    Incorrect information is not helpful to anyone.
  76. Re: Do you reuse single-use syringes for decanting?

    The issue is NEVER with the pipette, for precise measurements.

    The issue of precision always lies with your SCALE.

    All Perfumery is done by weight.

    Anybody who tells you differently is a...
  77. Replies
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    Re: Dry Leaves in the fall

    Well, that's interesting.... dont really know butternut, but I have the glycolierral...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Coffee and Tobacco accord.

    Bedoukian now only sells by the KG, unless you pay a less than kg fee of $350.
    I lost my business address for receiving shipments from Bedoukian and Sigma, so now even purchasing from Sigma is very...
  79. Replies
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    Re: Coffee and Tobacco accord.

    I've not smelled the Benzothiazole, but in my opinion, the Furfuryl Mercaptan is likely the key coffee odorant in this formula. The rest of the nuts, and other things are more to fill out and round...
  80. Replies
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    Re: Coffee and Tobacco accord.

    It *is* harder to build coffee yourself without those pyrazines and mercaptans.

    Most of those I have obtained from Sigma Aldrich. PA used to sell 2-acetyl pyrazine, check them again.
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    Three what?
  82. Replies
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    Re: Interesting (maybe) bergamot comparison

    If you have my fave, the Berg Berg Free from PSH /Albert Vielle, and compare, let me know, please...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Ethanol not mixing oil

    Yes, indeed, Carrier oil mixed with your EO. bad product to use for alcoholic Perfumery...
  84. Re: Where to get same size photo of perfumes for website?

    Copyright law is pretty clear, for people using a photograph to sell with and make money. Unless you own the copyright, then it's a problem.
    Copyright law is less clear for someone simply...
  85. Replies
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    Re: Have you worked with green tea absolute?

    With the cost of this material, and how dark it makes Perfumes, Green Tea, as well as Black Tea Absolutes are used sparingly.
    While Green Tea Abs may have those attributes to some people, I would...
  86. Re: Where to get same size photo of perfumes for website?

    As a Professional Photographer, and Perfumer, I recommend that you not violate the copyrights of the Photographers for which you are stealing these photographs from, and take your own photographs,...
  87. Re: When the diluted or pure aroma chemicals lose their properties?

    There are so many wrong impressions here, and incorrect information, I almost don't know where to start my reply.

    No, Dilution does not shorten "shelf Life".

    "Shelf Life" dating, and time...
  88. Replies
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    Re: Smoothing Out Lemongrass EO

    The TGSC database is very easily accessed by using the portal of www.perfumersearch.com
    There are a number of searches available, but the default loading search is for the TGSC database.

    To find...
  89. Replies
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    Re: dry milk + suede?

    Yes.
  90. Replies
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    Re: Smoothing Out Lemongrass EO

    Here's my thoughts:
    The Citral in Lemongrass, which is also known as geranial and neral combined,
    See gc here:
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/gca/gc1025531.html
    Is so very sharp and...
  91. Replies
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    Re: fragrance mixture solidity

    If you use Vodka, the only acceptable Vodka is 190 proof, or 192 proof. Even 150 proof is not enough alcohol, and is too much water.
  92. Replies
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    Re: dry milk + suede?

    Milk is really about 5-6-decenoic acid.
    But you can get close by diluting Butter CO2.
  93. Replies
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    Re: Possible Perfumery Internships

    I think it's best to reach out to people or companies, directly, and inquire. Much of the Fragrance industry is in NJ/NY/NYC/Connecticut.
  94. Replies
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    Re: Possible Perfumery Internships

    Yes, Sometimes.
  95. Replies
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    Re: evolution of an oil

    Because of the variability of Natural extractions, most of the time, the odor evaluations are more of a "typical" product, rather than specifics of terrior and extractions.
    And I have not seen a...
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    Re: Gentlemen fragrance formula

    I speak up to say, boxes of categorization are not always the path to take. Sometimes outside the box is the answer.

    Personally, I've never paid attention to these boxes of conformity.
  97. Thread: Bisabolene help

    by pkiler
    Replies
    10
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    630

    Re: Bisabolene help

    So, I was trying to draw *some* comparison... Yes, they are of course different, but they are sister Commiphora species, so they do have similarities.
    As far as Myrrh goes, I have found it...
  98. Re: questions about blending, dilution + evaluation of odours

    First, IF you dilute, pick a standard %. A bazillion odd different dilution percents eliminates your own previsualization skills to understand percentages, characteristics, and use parameters. ...
  99. Re: Letter from Elizabeth Arden to Ed Strobl Sr., Perfumer at the Albert Verley Co.

    Yes indeed.
  100. Re: More amazement from my endowment of formulas

    there are 167 formulas in the 1923 subset to my endowment. Combine those with the Pre WWII formulas that I gleaned from another source, - maybe I should publish them in a book? Granted, many of the...
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