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  1. Thread: Deer musk pods

    by Clare30
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    10,714

    Re: Deer musk pods

    Thank you, PK. I will look into these. Being that musk has so many components beyond muscone, i wondered if there was something which tried to replace all the facets of it. Reading a bit further up...
  2. Thread: Deer musk pods

    by Clare30
    Replies
    20
    Views
    10,714

    Re: Deer musk pods

    There are seven different of species of musk deer worldwide. 6 of those species are on the endangered species list, and the only one that isn't is at threatened status: Vulnerable. All of these...
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    2,553

    Re: My first formula need suggestions

    Galbanum and coriander leaf for some airy green naturals. Fresh, airy musks like cosmone, ethylene brasslate and silvanone for a crisp air effect. Musl R1 is said to have a wintergreen aspect, but I...
  4. Re: 'Ghost' Fragrances - Fragrances that make you nose blind

    Noa by Cacherel
    Santal Blush by Tom Ford

    I think i just have problems with big sandalwood replacer molecules.
  5. Replies
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    714

    Re: What can be used with mimosa

    THe best thing is to smell it and make associations for yourself. But as a guide it is often used in florals to complement, iris, rose ( particularly white rose) ionones, cassie and orange blossom,...
  6. Replies
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    Re: olifactory confusion bomb

    Amber accord with bitter orange and ionones. This is the olfactory version of Van Gogh's idea to put blue next to orange to make it pop.

    Mimosa and cucumber aldehyde.

    Coffee and Galbanum.
    ...
  7. Replies
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    1,583

    Re: Vintage aromachemicals

    Isn't a richer heavier, version of Coco Mademoiselle ...Coco? I must have a sniff next time I am doing a dash through the airport and find out how it compares.

    I'm hoping you are not being ironic...
  8. Replies
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    Re: Vintage aromachemicals

    I am increasingy getting interested in this concept of "Old lady" perfume.

    I mean, in 1929 all those silk stockinged flappers with their boy bob haircuts and shimmy skirts, wearing Shalimar and...
  9. Replies
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    1,121

    Re: Lavender Seville Absolute ?

    Sounds like a great material: leather and apricot? I guess it could contribute to an osmanthus accord, then? . A lot of the descriptions sound similar to hay absolute, which again is a very rare...
  10. Replies
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    1,121

    Re: Lavender Seville Absolute ?

    I can only find the essential oil. Is there a huge difference between the e/o and the abs? Is it much more long lasting? More of a base note?

    I would happily buy small quantities from you, but...
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    Re: Making perfume out of deer musk grains

    That's a euphemism if I ever heard one. How were they "wild crafted"?
  12. Replies
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    1,599

    Re: Oil based perfume (IPM, FCO)

    Well, for a general example, ibuprofen gel for topical pain relief. I have a medication I use that is a gel and is alcohol based Also hormonal patches such as testosterone patches and oestrogen...
  13. Replies
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    1,604

    Re: Cannabis supporting notes

    There's cannabis essential oil- never smelled it so not sure if it has the same headspace as smoked cannabis, but I think it would be longer lasting than a tincture of the dried leaf:
    ...
  14. Replies
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    Re: Oil based perfume (IPM, FCO)

    Thanks Julian.

    Although to be fair, alcohol is also a "penetration enhancer" hence being used for many applicationswhere a drug is absorbed into the skin. Silicone olsare big molecules that aren;t...
  15. Replies
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    Re: Oil based perfume (IPM, FCO)

    You're welcome. :)
  16. Replies
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    Re: What Do You Make of This Ethics Convo?

    As far as I know there is no way at all to collect civet paste ordeer musk without cruelty. Some musk deer are farmed for their musk in China, but this means keeping a wild animal in a high walled...
  17. Replies
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    Re: Oil based perfume (IPM, FCO)

    Hi Luis,

    I get my dodecane here where I live in France. It is not cheap at all, but nowhere near that ridiculous quote from Sigma Aldrich. It goes by the name of "Dry touch" in France. The only...
  18. Replies
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    1,599

    Re: Oil based perfume (IPM, FCO)

    We must be using a different kind of product as I find that IPM is a dry oil, but kills the projection stone dead.

    Most oil based perfumers use a mix of FCO and Jojoba oil. I have some oil...
  19. Replies
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    1,510

    Re: Ingredients for a petrol aroma

    In concentration it is really unpleasant. But I have used it in traces to give city air effects - was once trying to recreate the idea of a gaslit night in old London and it came in useful then.
    ...
  20. Replies
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    1,510

    Re: Ingredients for a petrol aroma

    Petitgrain mandarin
    Cedarwood heart.
    Higher than 1% concentration of choya nakh
  21. Replies
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    5,212

    Re: Aroma Chemicals and Essential Oils you DETEST

    As a coda to my protest of all things petitgrain ( and as proof this does not mean I don't use things I don't like} I have discovered petitgrain clementine sur fleurs to be INCREDIBY diffusive, and...
  22. Re: Do you know of some flavour materials used ALSO as fragrance materials?

    Well, vanillin is the obvious one. If you check on Vigon CoAs they usually list if something is food grade. Look into chocolate scents, coffees, caramels; there are lots of cross-overs.

    I was...
  23. Replies
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    Re: Light bulb moments and epic discoveries!

    I find it offensive and disrespectful to be discussing any kind of vibe in association with grandmother's dirty vagina. Especially a "bitch" vibe, you bunch of misogynists. :shocked:

    This is...
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    Re: Light bulb moments and epic discoveries!

    I used to work next to a woman who wore Giorgio Beverly Hills . It used to disgust me because I could smell flowers mixed with what I thought were her sweaty feet and unwashed body and her stale...
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    Re: Green Olive notes - any recommendations?

    Hermitage oils sells an olive absolute:

    https://hermitageoils.com/product/olive-absolute/

    And a few tobacco absolutes.
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    Re: What happened to Burberry Brit???

    Well, finding this thread has been strange. I stopped using Burberry Brit (and it was one of my favourites) about 5 years ago, because I thought it had been reformulated, and its longevity was gone...
  27. Re: Ambergris melange vs. True Ambergris tincture

    Does anybody actually have any information that relates to the thread starters question?

    Funny how we are reminded to keep on topic when talking about being nicer to people, but we can go off...
  28. Replies
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    Re: Light bulb moments and epic discoveries!

    If you are working with naturals, pare down. They do so much on their own, you will only create mud if you overdo the additions.

    If you think it is working - stop. Wait. That might be all it...
  29. Replies
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    Re: Aroma Chemicals and Essential Oils you DETEST

    I agree with you Talya, my "keep it serious, folks" was irony, which is an English-based form of humour, and I am really saying "isn't it ridiculous that people can't have a lighter hearted...
  30. Replies
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    Re: Aroma Chemicals and Essential Oils you DETEST

    I think it's perfectly acceptable to have certain materials that one finds disagreeable, even at the "correct" dilution. It does not mean we don't use them when they work in a formula. I dislike...
  31. Re: Ambergris melange vs. True Ambergris tincture

    I also would be interested in the opinion of someone who has actually got the ambergris melange from White Lotus Botanicals in how it compares to ambergris tincture, and if not any comparison, how it...
  32. Replies
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    Re: Adding diffusion to Leather Perfume

    IPM will kill dead the diffusion of your concentrate. For oil try a natural or synthetic silicone, and for even more volatility mix it with dodecane- although dodecane is still classed as flammable...
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    Re: Came across NICE lavender guys

    That's Mount ventoux high altitude lavender, a French lavender that I have come cross before , but never bought, so thanks for the rec.

    Also try Carshalton lavender - English lavender made from a...
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    Re: Question about black pepper usage levels

    You don't say where you live, but piper nigrum has no annex on the EC Cosing database

    http://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.results

    which as far as I...
  35. Re: What is the roundest and most silky, least acidic, least spikey of all rose materials

    Whilst I really respect the great base makers, for a small batch maker, it would cost me more to buy dozens of aromachems (and then add rose natural) rather than a really good bit of rose absolute or...
  36. Re: US source for some specific natural chems?

    It was a while back but I contacted Vigon and specifically said I was after small amounts and would they be prepared to sell me samples, and they said yes. But I'm not sure what their policy is now. ...
  37. Re: US source for some specific natural chems?

    The aromachems that are made from natural sources are limited, so you wont always find the natural equivalent. Vigon have naturals of your first two, In terms of caramel furanone, you might want to...
  38. Re: What is the roundest and most silky, least acidic, least spikey of all rose materials

    I only know of naturals when it comes to rose as I cant be bothered to make a base - would rather just use rose absolute.

    Bulgarian absolute is softer and more rounded that maroc or Turkish. To...
  39. Thread: Smokey Note

    by Clare30
    Replies
    29
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    2,496

    Re: Smokey Note

    Javan vetiver, also. I have one called Blanova, that smells like smoky tobacco. Gift from Mumsy, and I doubt I'll ever find a smokier one, but strong smoky vetivers are a good way of introducing some...
  40. Re: 3 questions: 1. fixateur 505, 2. orange blossom 3. Musks

    Yup. Three years in, still only a beginner. I go through times of complete disassociation and then somehow it sucks me back in. And when it does, I am obsessive about it. What I realise, is this...
  41. Re: will a GOOD nagarmotha have a petrol note?

    My nagarmotha (from Hermitage) has no such note; it's deep, leathery and very sweet, although I have noticed this is very common in heavier rooty and woody oils that have been refined, such as...
  42. Re: 3 questions: 1. fixateur 505, 2. orange blossom 3. Musks

    I can help you with question 3:

    Here is a list of musks and their characteristics and some indication of usage. They also sell the musks and are a reputable company.
    ...
  43. Replies
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    Re: Junper absolute

    I've never tried freezing it completely. I think it would depend on the material. But my rule of blending thumb is, if it's thick and waxy or gel-like, heat: if it's thick and resinous, cold. I would...
  44. Replies
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    Re: Junper absolute

    Never dealt with juniper abs, but I have ealt with the most fiendishly sticky and impossible substance known to perfumers- cistus absolute, and after a lot of beating my head on the desk, here's how...
  45. Replies
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    Re: Aroma Chemicals and Essential Oils you DETEST

    Sounds like all your samples were off or you got bad batches. Good geranium is an incredibly complex and lovely scent which varies batch to batch, region to region, but when it is good, it will have...
  46. Re: How do Coffee Beans help you shop for Fragrances?

    I think Mandy Aftel said in her book she breathes through a cashmere scarf for a while. That makes more sense.

    It clearly if it works at all works on overwhelming your sense of smell, rather than...
  47. Re: PK Bases: Long Lasting Lemon, Magnificent Mango, Perfect Pineapple, & Radical Root Beer

    These look lovely, PK. Congrats on your success with them. I am coveting the mango- I have a mango handwash that I love and was wondering "how do I do it?". No need to, PK has it covered. :)

    ...
  48. Re: Any good suppliers for Indian attars and Choyas?

    Thanks Sobejjj, Nice find.

    Wow though, they sell in tiny amounts for a fortune. I will fork out for their mitti though just to compare ( as Paul said) with the supplier I have for that one. The...
  49. Re: Any good suppliers for Indian attars and Choyas?

    Thanks Needaname,

    I have explored the possibility of forwarding services before but it's always complicated to get them to accept essential oils and absolutes. I'll look into this one and see....
  50. Any good suppliers for Indian attars and Choyas?

    I just received a choya nakh from a reputable supplier. I was aware it would be a stinker and don't mind stinkers ( love Spikenard for example) but it smells mostly of gasoline - is this normal? I...
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    Re: Aroma Chemicals and Essential Oils you DETEST

    Petitgrain bigarade- have had a couple of samples of his from reputable suppliers. It just smells incredibly soapy and as you say is very pervasive. Like a cheap man's cologne.

    Petitgrain...
  52. Replies
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    Re: Aromatics International

    It seems the website is down, Julian.
  53. Replies
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    Re: Aroma Chemicals and Essential Oils you DETEST

    I can't believe no one has mentioned petitgrain.

    I cannot stand any kind of the stuff. Love neroli, love orange blossom, but petitgrain...

    I have an expensive myrrh co2 that to me just smells...
  54. Re: Lyral, Atranol & Chloroatranol (Oakmoss) now finally prohibited by EU Legislation! Any Ideas?

    I thought lyral had been prohibited a while ago, and I know that atranol had been restricted, hence all the low atranol oakmosses ( which are inferior, of course) Does this now mean that even low...
  55. Thread: Pre-diluting

    by Clare30
    Replies
    22
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    3,276

    Re: Pre-diluting

    IN France they sell off the shelves of DIY stores a 95 ethyl alcohol superieur menager. I use this as a 50/50 dilutant for for my room sprays but have no idea if it would be suitable for perfumery...
  56. Re: Don't Add Water, Glycerin or Jojoba to Alcoholic Perfumes

    I think commercial perfumes contain some water, but they must filter it, or do some kind of miscible spell over it or something, Water is not a good thing to add to perfume. Alcohol itself usually...
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    Re: Hermitage Oils (UK)

    Thanks so much as always for taking the time to clarify all of that, Adam. I have never heard of Kobashi, so that will be someone I will look up in your absence, and as always wait patiently for...
  58. Replies
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    Re: Hermitage Oils (UK)

    Hexapus stock mainly aromachems, and I have never dealt with them before, but looking at their naturals range, they stock half a dozen absolutes and a couple of dozen essential oils - they just don't...
  59. Replies
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    Re: Hermitage Oils (UK)

    Absolutely, getting materials from Hermitage pretty much guarantees their quality, that is a given, but I can also see ( as a person not in prodiuction, I hasten to add) that once you have utilised...
  60. Replies
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    Re: Hermitage Oils (UK)

    Hi Slickadam, if I was just going for Jasmine and rose whilst Hermitage is closed, I would go for Materia Aromatica. They don't stock as much as they used to, but what they do stock is top quality...
  61. Replies
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    Re: Hermitage Oils (UK)

    Group orders are tricky, though, with no one wanting exactly the same things, and then there has to be a major trust between the sharers of the order.

    What is needed ( she dreams) is a french or...
  62. Replies
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    Re: Hermitage Oils (UK)

    I have never ordered from Baccararose. But the person who put me onto them, who ordered from them, claimed they had no reason to doubt the quality, but of course if the prices are too good to be...
  63. Replies
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    Re: Hermitage Oils (UK)

    That's exactly the same as me, I used to place orders from everyone at least once a year, now with skyrocketting postage, I place one or two orders a year, switching between suppliers, and stock up....
  64. Replies
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    Re: Hermitage Oils (UK)

    I'm based in France, and apart from Proxisante, which folded last year, there are no small bottle retailers of any perfumery materials here - in the heart of perfumery material production.

    This...
  65. Replies
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    Re: Blood orange/ cedar simple perfume

    Such a coincidence, I was using my organic blood orange wth some oil soluble vanilla oleoresin to scent a wash-off orange cream cleanser I made today ( no need to make an accord for the blood...
  66. Re: Beginner Formula from Matt: Dry Conifer Forest, Apple Orchard off in the distance

    Matt, I'm really curious, how long have you been perfuming for? It sounds like you have an extensive collection of materials, a lot of them specialist perfumery materials you'd have to know where to...
  67. Thread: Cypriol

    by Clare30
    Replies
    7
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    1,307

    Re: Cypriol

    My ignore list keeps growing.
  68. Thread: Colgne

    by Clare30
    Replies
    14
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    1,504

    Re: Colgne

    Thanks to Julian and Pk for posting these great formulas. I have never thought of making a simple cologne before - but what bettter way of understanding basics? Great stuff.

    Naia, for creating a...
  69. Thread: Cypriol

    by Clare30
    Replies
    7
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    1,307

    Re: Cypriol

    info deleted.
  70. Replies
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    Re: New, simple perfume formula from Matt

    Thanks, all for your encouragement and kindness. It's cheered me up this morning. This place is an amazing place of exchange and shared enthusiasm. Long may it continue. :beer: ( although it's a bit...
  71. Replies
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    Re: Tobacco - Immortelle heart note

    If I was trying to trouble shoot that, what I would do is *take very small amounts* ( so as not to waste too much) of all my other materials down to a dilution of 10%, then blend from them with the...
  72. Re: Ernst Beaux's WWI military duties, Chanel No 5 creator

    I thought the same! I can't think of a less arctic smelling perfume. He must have meant the aldehydes, and they do in fact strangely come into their own ( in the older versions at least ) in very...
  73. Replies
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    Re: New, simple perfume formula from Matt

    Thanks Suspended. I'm quite relieved as I was really in a quandary if I should contribute to this thread or not, or if I had anything to say that was useful, and did not want to fan the flames any...
  74. Replies
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    Re: New, simple perfume formula from Matt

    Very well put, Fairsmell. I really like your teacher analogy. And I agree, that what seemed like such a negative event in the forum, has enabled a space for these things to be discussed, and I am...
  75. Replies
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    Re: New, simple perfume formula from Matt

    I do notice that forum interaction breaks down when people are not validated as having a valuable contribution to make, and given due respect for making that contribution, in whichever form they...
  76. Re: Ernst Beaux's WWI military duties, Chanel No 5 creator

    Wow. The past is dredged up and it looks very murky and dark indeed.
  77. Replies
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    Re: quality of aromachemicals

    I've never quoted myself before, but...



    But I mainly came back i to ask where you got that info, Geco? Because it sounds to me then that this kind of info IS readily available as well as all...
  78. Replies
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    Re: quality of aromachemicals

    Serge, I really don't want to argue, but this is not the case. Yes, there are blends and bases and mixtures, but there are also many many single molecules. The company you mention as giving you less...
  79. Replies
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    Re: quality of aromachemicals

    Just to clarify again, i was responding initially to this. They do give you the supplier, the country of origin if its a natural. the CAS number, , the density, the flashpoint, the evaporation time...
  80. Replies
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    Re: quality of aromachemicals

    I have no idea what you are talking about. How much A/c with the CAS in your sample? What on earth do you mean? If it's got that CAs , it will be that material. Are you suggesting that it wont be?...
  81. Replies
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    Re: quality of aromachemicals

    Not sure waht you mean by "common info about AC you can find everywhere" LIke I said, maybe the info i am reading is to you not advanced enough to qualify as a COA - admittedly the more I look the...
  82. Replies
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    Re: quality of aromachemicals

    Pellwall from what I can see has the MSDS as a link at the bottom of the page. No idea about the COA - not always given, often info is given on the page advertising the product. But looked up an...
  83. Thread: Mousse de Saxe

    by Clare30
    Replies
    77
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    21,210

    Re: Mousse de Saxe

    Thanks for posting this, Paul. Do they have amounts? It would be great to recreate them and compare. Are these interpretations rather than evolutions? I thought Mousse de Saxe was made by De Laire...
  84. Replies
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    Re: quality of aromachemicals

    Looking up ( just as an example) Adoxal on the Good scents company by CAS - it does state Adoxal ( Givaudan) but THEN also says Also known as Farenal (symrise). My reasoning is that Givaudan created...
  85. Replies
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    Re: quality of aromachemicals

    Not sure what you mean, Serge. Maybe you are expecting to get something I wouldn't even look for. For example, if I link to this PA page for Adoxal. On the link beforehand it had already told me that...
  86. Replies
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    Re: quality of aromachemicals

    Good points, AI. I hadn't thought about that and didn't know that it was sometimes a case of sticking up an info sheet from a different company listed as providing the product. I would have thought...
  87. Replies
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    Re: quality of aromachemicals

    Invariably provide a certificate of analysis. Different from a material safety data sheet - MSDS

    I say invariably because it seems to vary from product to product. Especially in the case of small...
  88. Re: Can 2 materials, simultaneously, share and not share a note?

    I understand your question, but i can't understand why you are asking it . You'd have to go into the chemical make-up of something, and locate the molecules, and even then if two substances share...
  89. Re: Can 2 materials, simultaneously, share and not share a note?

    Rose geranium and rose otto can share a rose note, but they do not smell the same at all ( unless its geranium heart which does have a rose otto aspect - but only an aspect; it's not a replacer on...
  90. Replies
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    Re: quality of aromachemicals

    Pell Wall, creating Perfume, Perfumer Supply House, and Perfumer's Apprentice all state the source of their synthetics materials and invariably provide COA and MSDS. Naturals are more shady in terms...
  91. Replies
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    Re: New, simple perfume formula from Matt

    I think even amongst the quinolines, there are marked differences. The only quinoline that was used orginally for mousse de saxe, I believe ( do correct me if I'm wrong if someone knows more) is...
  92. Replies
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    Re: New, simple perfume formula from Matt

    Yes, both isobutyl quinoline and castoreum are leathery, but they are nothing like eachother.

    It's like saying rose and jasmine are both floral, it's true, but they can't replace eachother.
  93. Re: Custom Candle Fragrance - Aroma Chemicals vs Fragrance Oils

    i have found perfumer's world (perfumersworld.com) to be very informative with regards to *what* material would be suitable for candles, and how they would perform, as they have a rating for the...
  94. Thread: ClaireV

    by Clare30
    Replies
    21
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    1,830

    Re: ClaireV

    I have only recently discovered the lovely ClaireV and her reviews, and am very grateful for being pointed towards them, and also to Claire for writing them. Really educational and expanding my...
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    Re: A long lasting lavender oil ?

    You're right, I'm confused.
  96. Replies
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    Re: A long lasting lavender oil ?

    Given the above quote, I think it is you who are confused, and very ungracious andd generally plain rude. I'll waste no more time with you.

    You've been given a plethora of recommendations, and...
  97. Replies
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    Re: A long lasting lavender oil ?

    Essential oils wholesale are largely sold by weight, but weight for kilo to litre is generally the same, of course with variations according to density, hence why most essential oils are sold by...
  98. Replies
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    Re: A long lasting lavender oil ?

    As far as I can see, Chris, you are dreaming. If you do find a lavender absolute or long lasting natural lavender for that price ( you'll get ordinary lavender oil for that price, but as has been...
  99. Replies
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    4,580

    Re: A long lasting lavender oil ?

    Does it have to be natural? Lavender is mainly a top note in the E/o form, and the absolute lasts longer ( some claim base, i would say it's a middle note) , but is a natural, so wont last as long as...
  100. Thread: Orange blossom

    by Clare30
    Replies
    8
    Views
    2,341

    Re: Orange blossom

    And looking at the page greencarrots kindly linked to, I see that Jfrater also has an orange blossom base. It looks beautiful!
    http://frater.com/blog/2015/07/12/orange-blossom-base/#comment-2340
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000