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    Re: Leather Base for Vintage Leather Chypre

    1000 total with correction

    I was just about to make this up but I noticed my Appell book says that a zero is missing from the Methyl Ionone.

    IMHO I don't like the look of Appell's Rose 50-
    15...
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    Re: Other addictions

    White chocolate
    Sweet dessert wine
    Sticky buns
    Horse Riding
    Tango
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    Syringaldehyde anyone?

    Has anyone here tried Syringaldehyde? Chris? Apparently It has a green woody note "mild plastic woody tonka sweet" and I suspect Chris Bartlett sourced it for a whisky type perfume. Hermitage...
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    Re: clearwood firmenich

    As a simple Naturalist I am wary of Clearwood although Firmenich makes the point of it being made from sustainable sugars, and "which can be used as the natural oil".

    Ironically in getting...
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    Re: Driftwood or Salty Accord

    Philip Kraft of Scent & Chemistry suggests these-
    A marine base such as Ultrazur.
    Oceans can also smell melon, so melonal.
    Greeness of algae: Algenone PB of Synarome.
    Extra salted ham: Spanish...
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    Re: orris root note

    Whoops- an error and a duplicated post somehow.
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    Re: orris root note

    I like the 'Orris liquid' from Hermitage Oils. Adam there (missing you already) says it's all natural, but I suspect that it's Nature Identical as it's quite cheap, and from Charabot...
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    Re: orris root note

    The patent goes on to say that the formula is dominated by the odor of ionones which give the base a synthetic quality yet the addition of Givaudan's unavailable ethyl α-campholenate unites the...
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    Re: Mignonette (Reseda odorata) Reseda absolute

    Whoops, thanks- there is indeed 100 units of Terpineol making 1000 units in all.

    Has anybody tried Reseda Body by IFF? Susan at Creating Perfume may have a sample.
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    Re: Mignonette (Reseda odorata) Reseda absolute

    I guess Cinnamyl acetate will substitute for Phenyl propyl acetate (aka hydrocinnamyl acetate). It's also a hyacinth modifier, "sweet floral spicy balsam cinnamon" and cheap from PA & Olfactik....
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    Re: Mignonette (Reseda odorata) Reseda absolute

    This accord is all I could fine, but one of the chemicals seems unobtainable-
    Anonis/Gattefosse 1950

    250 alpha ionone
    50 Orris resinoid
    100 Methyl ionone
    100 Phenyl propyl acetate (can't...
  12. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Reseda formula from Anonis/Gattefossé 1950
    250 alpha ionone
    50 Orris resinoid
    100 Methyl ionone
    100 Phenyl propyl acetate
    200 Geraniol palmarosa
    75 Phenyl ethyl acetate
    25 Styralyl...
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde

    So, it's jasmine-like, but would anyone agree with Philip Kraft recently saying it is used as a cheaper form of Hedione (see his Scent & Chemistry facebook page)? It would also appeal to the...
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    Re: Alpha-Irone source?

    Proxisante are doing 'natural' alpha irone, and are nearly out of stock. Has anyone here had theirs yet, and could they comment? I will do so presently.
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    V is vanillin as Jicky was the first to use it in 1889. However MK or Musc ketone was not around until 5 years later, so I suppose Musc xylene invented by Baur in the same year was used instead-...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Philip Kraft of Scent & Chemistry fame writes that Jicky is 33% linalool, and 32% bergamot & 2% lemon oil. The above formula shows 28% Bergamot and 1.4% lemon, which is good enough. Thanks for the...
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    Re: Karo Karounde

    But is it safe? The absolute is prohibited by the IFRA as it contains over 5% benzyl cyanide. I hope the new Hermitage 'liquid' November 2014 is safer but not at the expense of the molecules that...
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    Re: Leather Base for Vintage Leather Chypre

    I get castoreum and civet from Proxisante. They will soon be offering free delivery for orders over 100 Euro to Europe at least.

    Speaking about leather, has anyone tried Firmenich's Leather MD? It...
  19. Re: Any acceptable substitutes for Fossilized Amber Oil?

    I have tried a few from Poland and Latvia and they cost around £15 for 20ml. They are more or less phenolic and compliment the usual amber formula of labdanum, benzoin, & vanilla, which is otherwise...
  20. Reed diffuser & candle biz on The Apprentice

    The latest BBC TV episode of The Apprentice (S10E03) shows what's involved in starting up a premium Home Fragrance business. Candles at £30+ and Reed Diffusers for £15. I thought the Reed Diffuser...
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    Oud SigNature by Firmenich

    Has anyone tried this? I found it at Proxisante and all I could find is that on goodscents it is an agarwood replacer. "This combination of natural and synthetics ingredients, utilizes process...
  22. Re: Oilahuasca & Serotonin From Nature & Lucid Dreams

    I found the post about methyl chavicol or Sweet Basil useful, but sadly nothing else. Serotonin, dopamine and adrenaline perfumes are worth another thread sometime. The DopeyOne is getting a better...
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    Re: Lavender Pillow Spray

    I would go for lavender hydrosol- the by product of the oil distillation- which being mostly water can be used neat in a spray. Probably the best and one of the cheapest is made near Carshalton,...
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    Re: Where can I get Bourgeonal?

    Perfumers World $3.65 5gm, about 10 days delivery to the UK and no problems with Customs.
  25. Re: Oilahuasca & Serotonin From Nature & Lucid Dreams

    It's good stuff! The marijuana forums cross over here a fair amount eg for extraction. I am sure many of us have toyed with Cannabis EO, or at least hops, cocao or coffee. Bring it on!
  26. Thread: Rose accord

    by nemenator
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    Re: Rose accord

    EU and US Naturals, and Isolates (if these are cheaper) please. I would also like to see the providence and production to see how 'natural' they are (I am still queasy about acetylisation).
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    Re: frankincense oil in the uk

    Norfolk Essential Oils frankincense is Somalian and distilled by them, and very good too. It is probably the same as Hermitage's at less than half the price....
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    Re: Natural isolated Aroma chemicals

    It's called adulteration or reconstitution, or non-therapeutic essential oils. For instance why is Ho oil so cheap? It's 90% linalool which is quite expensive as a Natural, so why not extract the...
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    Re: Becoming A Supplier

    I would like to compare aromachemicals with beer if you please. Commodity beer or lager is pretty tasteless and boring and has been the death of many good beers and pubs. It came about as the result...
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    Re: Formula for Lily (Lys) Accord ?

    There are a lot of golden oldie accord posts here in Basenotes, but not much for Lily. So here's what I have found.

    Headspace analysis seems not of great use. According to Bo Jensen, for 4 lilies,...
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    Re: Narcotic florals

    So what is responsible for a Narcotic Floral? I am especially interested after recently trying Lush/Gorilla's new Death and Decay which is based on Lily and anthranilates. The formula for Alien was...
  32. Re: Natural versus synthetic musk - back to the topic

    The best musk accord according to Arcadi boix camps last year was "Laevo Muscone + Muscenone dextro + Ambrettone + Vulcanolide + Civettone....and it will be this way for ages". Until now apparently,...
  33. Re: Good top notes for a coconut based fragrance blend?

    I use Mimosa olessence by Robertet (from Proxisante - they have a lot of good stuff now) especially with a gorse soliflore. I think Lush uses australian Acacia Decurrens for their Furze. Gorse is...
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    Re: Interaction with White Lotus Aromatics

    They are UK-friendly too even though they won't export directly. I do understand the No Export policy of some small US businesses as items do go astray in and around airports and Royal Mail is not...
  35. Thread: Violet No.2

    by nemenator
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    Re: Violet No.2

    Cerbelaud went up to 5% violet leaf abs. in Vert de Violette.

    "The Complete Technology Book on Herbal Beauty Products with Formulations and Processes" by H. Panda, is very interesting if you...
  36. Thread: PSH's Zeppin

    by nemenator
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    Re: PSH's Zeppin

    Methyl dihydrojasmonate, Hedione HC, Splendione, Paradisione, Methyl Jasmonate, Zeppin. A logical progression- and Zeppin is arguably nature-identical. What's not to love?
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Yes, you are quite right sandalore is indeed synthetic, sorry, but the paper also states future studies should identify endogenous substances that also activate the receptor and contribute to wound...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Despite all the fluffiness about aromatherapy there are a lot of clinical trials of Essential Oils and after a while they cease registering to the converted. I am just copy&pasting my old notes from...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    I admit I am with the unicorns in connecting aromatherapy with brain states. There have been various studies in correlating EEG readings with essential oils but I doubt the denialists here would have...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Here is some Science for our hard-core aromatherapy-denialists. Actually I suspect they have read it anyway. Skin's ability to 'smell' seems to help it heal itself...
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    Re: Free Fragrance Composition Software

    Good stuff, thanks. Better than Perfumer World's.
    I can't work out your .data file format to add materials though.
    Any chance of another field to indicate material 'naturalness'? eg a scale of 10...
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    Re: Heliotrope Absolute

    I will complain about the cost of this book. $400 is extortionate and Allured Publishing should be ashamed- it's a cheap book with cheap paper and poor binding and without any pictures. But it is...
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    Re: Violet Accord Formula

    Source is Jellinek 1949.

    Here is a simpler one suitable for Naturalists, from Cerbelaud, Formulaire de Parfumerie, in 1920 I think-
    Parma Violet Superfine
    67.35 alpha-ionone white (probably...
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    Re: Hermitage Oils and Pell Wall Join Forces

    Well it's natural by ISO 9235:2013 but I doubt it's natural by ISO 9235:1997. This PEA is fermented from 'Natural' L-phenylalanine (found in animal proteins) which is in turn produced from bacteria,...
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    Re: Hermitage Oils and Pell Wall Join Forces

    Great! Several people have tried to do this. Cost is the problem- for instance natural phenyl ethyl alcohol is over 20 times the price of synthetic. There is a book by Shelley Waddington giving some...
  46. Re: Vetiveryl & Patchoulyl Acetates - Natural or Synth and who cares?

    As a naturalist, peversely (or a perverse naturalist if you like) I don't think I blame Ventos for passing off a synthetic as natural. I think I am actually grateful. I suspect they are using the...
  47. Vetiveryl & Patchoulyl Acetates - Natural or Synth and who cares?

    These I think are cheap essential oils acetylised or esterified to dumb down the harsh bits and then fractionated. Which is fine if you prefer synthetics, but us sad wanabee naturalists are in a...
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    Re: Living Jasmine Accord

    Or, use the real thing viz Natural Indole https://www.aftelier.com/indole-2-percent.html (I can't find anyone else doing it) is said to have "none of that mothball feel ... instead, it was very...
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    Re: Makking solid perfumes

    Best read Scents and Sensibilities: Creating Solid Perfumes for Well-being by Mandy Aftel. It doesn't cost much or you can even glean enough from it from the Amazon & Google previews. If you can't...
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    Re: What smells like sea salt, beach?

    I mascerate seaweed in oil. Dimethyl Suphide is also useful. Robertet's seaweed absolute is great.
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    Re: Recreating A Living Pink Rose

    Actually they have hardly any Rose headspaces :( Roman Kaiser's Meaningful Scents lists 12 rose GC/MS analyses but they have few common aroma chemicals.
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    Re: Fabaceae family perfume ingredients?

    I know Gorse is one, and I am working on getting an absolute out of it. Meanwhile the hydrosol is very nice. Lush do a nice gorse perfume which uses mimosa, but I prefer the Caldey Island one.

    And...
  53. Re: Perfume Formulas (found in Patent Applications)

    Here are some useful accords by Robertet designed to show off their intended 'captive' aromachemical Anthranilaldehyde or 2-Aminobenzaldehyde. This is a plant defense mechanism and a tricky chemical...
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    Re: Honeysuckle absolute from Haven Essence

    I think I know what's going on now since the Original Post. The 'Honeysuckle Abs' is almost certainly a reconstitution ie part synthetic. I bought the 'abs' and compared to the 'gold standard' viz...
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    Re: Nature identical compounds

    A natural Hedione seems like wishful thinking to me as it isn't in the 37 jasmines I've looked at http://www.essentialoils.org. And perfumers seem to be taken by the high-cis versions rather like we...
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    Re: Nature identical compounds

    Well, I would like to use nature-identicals where the actual naturals are too difficult to extract. Philip Kraft at Givaudan makes a point of this. In my case being a naturalist, I would prefer to...
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    Re: Perfumer Supply House is now live

    Adam, may we have a 20% discount please like the last time you wished a competitor well?
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    Re: Perfumer Supply House is now live

    Adam, may we have a 20% discount please like the last time you wished a competitor well?
  59. Thread: Osmanthus

    by nemenator
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    Re: Osmanthus

    γ-dodecalactone is available at Perfumer's World from 10gm and as 100gm at SAFC and as a natural at 3 x the price. This accord is all natural except for the Hedione.
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    Re: Nature identical compounds

    Whatever next? I see that now Hedione is a natural material.
  61. Thread: Osmanthus

    by nemenator
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    Re: Osmanthus

    Another Osmanthus accord from Philip Kraft-
    10 β-ionone
    20 β-dihydroionone
    10 γ-decalactone
    2 γ-dodecalactone
    1 α-Irisone (viz 90% α-Ionone)
    10 nerol
    10 nerolidol
    10 Hedione HC...
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    Re: Osmotheque coffret matieres premieres

    Cacio, I thought this box was a bargain as the Cassis alone is probably worth the 30 Euro. Postage is 4 euro to the UK so probably cheap anywhere. They are very slow to reply to emails though. Did...
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    Re: Any experience with ordering from CGherbals

    I haven't ordered yet and am waiting for them to sort out their international ordering. They are quick to reply to questions, but postage seems arbitrary at the moment. They have a good range of...
  64. Re: Osmotheque genealogy of feminine perfumes lecture

    27505
    27506
    I know they need the money, but these posters cost 25 euros? I'll buy them if anyone else here wants a cheaper As New poster soon?
  65. Thread: Osmanthus

    by nemenator
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    Re: Osmanthus

    As Osmanthus absolute is now not too expensive -at least in the UK & France courtesy of HermitageOils and Proxisante- perhaps a look at extending it would be useful? Here are 3 ways I have found- two...
  66. Re: Proxisante is going to get some interesting things

    With a new website Proxisante seem to be delivering internationally.

    Mimosa absolute olesscense (low temperature extraction) from Robertet is new, as is Pacific seaweed.

    Interestingly to me...
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    Re: Honeysuckle absolute from Haven Essence

    A lot of people have been waiting for Anya's tests of various Honeysuckle abs and it looks as if Naturals are possible...

    They were all synths, or a compound made of a melange of absolutes, EOs,...
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    Re: Natural vs synthetic

    The Natural Perfumery group on Yahoo seems to be losing members to the Perfumery group. I blame this on the militant No Fermenting rule. However its intentions are good and inspirational.

    I hope...
  69. Re: Proxisante is going to get some interesting things

    I don't see Adam as hijacking this thread. He and Philippe both offer similar products except Adam's cost about 30% more. But Adam is exceptionally good at costly customer service and I expect...
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    Re: Honeysuckle absolute from Haven Essence

    I have tried cheap Honeysuckle from reputable sources and have learnt to avoid it- until recently. There are thousands of tons of Honeysuckle grown in East China mainly for herbal medicine (but watch...
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    Re: Perfume and personality - is there a link?

    A lot of blokes here like me have confessed to be INTJ which means arrogant and introverted yet with no particular perfume preference.
    But what about blood groups? The japanese like tying them to...
  72. Re: Proxisante is going to get some interesting things

    Proxisante could soon be the best place for small quantities of naturals including natural aromachemicals and isolates at this rate. Even without Robertet they are well placed just reselling from...
  73. Talk: Scent in Interactive Experience- Brighton England November 21st

    There will be a talk this Thursday by Kate McLean (Creator of Smell Maps of Paris, Edinburgh, Glasgow, New York’s Smelliest Block, Newport (RI) and Milan www.sensorymaps.com), Simon Niedenthal (scent...
  74. Re: Proxisante is going to get some interesting things

    Good find, thanks.
    Manufacturing partners are (in english)-
    http://www.herbo-cailleau.com/?l=EN
    http://www.albertvieille.com/en
    http://www.diffusions-aromatiques.fr/en-GB/Home

    Postage to the...
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    Re: Working with Labdanum ABS

    I would agree with Benzyl Benzoate. But I am sure Adam will help if not be along here in a moment.
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    Re: volatile coffee EO

    Good find! Though coffee grounds infused in a carrier oil works for me.
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    Re: Cassis/Blackcurrant synth or accord

    I infuse the freeze dried fruit, and leaf for extra tomcat note. I see Firmenich use Boxwood (Buxus Sempervirens) for the latter. Wormwood may be helpful as it somehow aids raspberry growth and is...
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    Re: The Rather Useful Simple Accord Thread

    The Mango accord is useful thanks. I use oils and had a mango infusion that needed some more sparkle. So this worked for me: 15% mango infusion, 5% blackcurrant infusion (can't afford the absolute,...
  79. Re: furze / gorse flower aromachemical or essential oil ?

    Caldey Island off Pembroke in Wales makes a nice gorse perfume apparently created by Henry Kobus who Arctander mentions and is worth looking up. This inspired me to make a gorse infusion which is a...
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