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  1. Re: Whats your the Best fragrance(s) in past 5 years?

    Despite the general state of perfumery, there have been a number of excellent fragrances released in the 2010-2015 period. My personal favorite is the decadent Vero Profumo Rozy VDE, but Chanel...
  2. Replies

    Re: Never enough

    Enjoy this phase. I really wish I could feel that enthusiastic for new scents: I have so many I love now that I'm consumed with jaded torpor, a prisoner of my own satisfaction.

    Oh sure, I could...
  3. Replies

    Re: Morning sigh

    Caron reformulates almost yearly it seems, so I've honestly no clue what Bellodgia smells like now. I have Poivre samples from five different periods and they each smell different.
  4. Replies

    Re: Creamy Cozy Sandalwood

    A lot of what my suggestions would be are already here: Tom Ford's Santal Blush, FM Dries Van Noten, and Diptyque Tam Dao EDP.

    Of the Serge Lutens sandalwoods, Santal Blanc is the closest to...
  5. Replies

    Re: Morning sigh

    Bellodgia is so carnation. Best carnation scent since they discontinued Virgilio.
  6. Re: The Visual Clichés of a Perfumer or Artistic Director

    What about big jars of raw ingredients they'll never conceivably use in that form? Jars of dried rose petals, cinnamon sticks, bay leaves, etc.
  7. Replies

    Re: Favorite Jasmin

    On a scale of virginal to sultry:

    By Kilian - Love & Tears
    Parfumerie Generale - Drama Nuui
    Serge Lutens - A La Nuit
    Nasomatto - Nuda
    Serge Lutens - Sarrasins
    Bruno Acampora -...
  8. Re: Any recommendations for a "workhorse" type fragrance?

    Under $100 is tricky, but even with the price hike, the big Chanel jugs give good mileage per ml and Cuir de Russie EDT is my default everyday scent.
  9. Re: Looking for something that smells like a JUNGLE

    Your description sounds exactly like Neil Morris Gandhara ... decadent patchouli, fig, jasmine that smells earthy, over the top, and lush. Very vividly botanical and redolent of tropical decay.
  10. Re: What's your favorite fragrance from Profumum Roma?

    I don't know this line well, but Fumidus is charming, in a Swamp Thing way.
  11. Replies

    Re: Fallen out of love

    Many I've sold off or given away:

    Serge Lutens; Santal Majuscule, Borneo 1834, Vetiver Oriental, and arguably Fleurs d'Oranger, though the latter I've only owned in decants.
    Frederic Malle:...
  12. Re: The Fragrance Industry - Evolution or Revolution?

    The end isn't near. But the end of creativity in mass-market release is a long time gone. Thankfully there's a large cottage industry that caters to fragrance-fan fragrances, and I don't see that...
  13. Replies

    Re: good look or not... ripped jeans on men

    I hate this look on humans, full stop. If you can't afford better you have my pity, everyone else in this look merely has my scorn. :D
  14. Re: Les Exclusifs de Chanel - Misia coming Feb 2015?

    Misia is a certainty for me, just need to drain my decant first. Now to decide whether to get the little or big bottle. :)
  15. Re: Tom Ford Bois Marocain - Dry and woody as a bone

    I found it too arid for my tastes, but "woody as a bone" is certainly an eye-catching turn of phrase.
  16. Replies

    Re: Summer Leather?

    Miller Harris Cuir d'Oranger comes to mind.
  17. Replies

    Re: Top/Ultimate lists with just niche?

    It really depends on where you draw the line. Comme des Garcons, Hermes, etc. are absolutely designers in the literal sense. I used to say "For the sake of convenience, not-niche is what they carry...
  18. Replies

    Poll: Re: Getting tired of "oud scents" yet? POLL.

    Sick to death of it.

    It's not that perfumers are incapable of creating new and interesting perfumes with an oud component ( perfumes like Mona di Orio's Oud exemplify this ), but it's the same...
  19. Replies

    Re: Pancake mix scent

    L'Artisan Bois Farine, though something of a nutty smell in there too, it's one of the most realistic flour scents.
  20. Replies

    Re: Classics true to original formula?

    I can't say I've smelled anything older than 15 years that is fully intact, however a number are still quite decent in their bowdlerized version. The Guerlain parfums are mostly still quite good IMO,...
  21. Replies

    Re: Some Interesting Recommendations

    It looks like you're already well on the way to have a diverse collection!

    Here are some fragrances that are talking points frequently, that you may enjoy visiting:

    Bogue - Maai
    Czech &...
  22. Replies

    Re: Fans of Aoud and Roja Dove Rejoice.

    What a busy man Roja's been.

    I, for one, welcome our Sweetie overlords. They're so brilliant a light that only facepalm can shield you from their majesty.
  23. Replies

    Re: How Come People Don't Start New Threads?

    For me, I've little to say on perfume of late, and what I say has been fragmentary: better as an addition to previous thoughts on the previous subject than something out in the blue on its own.
  24. Re: How about Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Fragrances ?

    I've smelled a few, and they all smell competent yet somehow a bit unoriginal, and dare I say it, dated? A Santal, an amber, a tuberose, a jasmine... all kind of meh on each, yet by all means well...
  25. Re: Need recommendations for new stuff to try in the 'leathery/tobacco/wood shavings' vein

    In approximate order of safe to adventurous:

    Comme des Garcons Hinoki
    Chanel Sycamore
    Dior Leather Oud
    ELDO Rien
    Amouage Memoir Man
    Vero Profumo Onda
    Slumberhouse Norne
  26. Replies

    Re: Which is your favorite niche house?

    Probably Frederic Malle. But it's almost tied with Serge Lutens.
  27. Replies

    Re: Vero Profumo Perfumes - What to Sample?

    CapriDog, the VDE's are the formula of the extrait at a lower dilution so you can wear them as a spray. Her VDE's and Parfums are essentially the same, EDP's are different, usually with added fruity...
  28. Replies

    Re: Vero Profumo Perfumes - What to Sample?

    All of them are quite different in the VDE and parfum strengths, but the EDP's all share a certain aggressive passionfruit note that you might like or might not like. If sampling each of them for the...
  29. Replies

    Re: What is your opinion on Montale ?

    They smell like cheap Arabian perfumes in alcohol instread of oil, but that having been said, they're not all bad for that. I quite enjoy Highness Roses, Oud Cuir d'Arabie, and Louban. I'd happily...
  30. Replies

    Re: Czech & Speake No. 88

    Has there been a more recent reformulation? I'm familiar with the juice of five years ago-ish, and also own a partial bottle I think dates back around fifteen-twenty years. Both were quite high...
  31. Re: Les Exclusifs de Chanel - Misia coming Feb 2015?

    I think I'll be picking up a big bottle of this in May or June. I have a decant and I wear it constantly. Much like Beige, it's not a remarkable perfume, but it's an exceedingly well-crafted,...
  32. Replies

    Re: Penhaligon's Praise Thread

    I'm a great fan of Elixir. It's really a middle eastern perfume in disguise: it smells like so many "white musk" oils sold in the middle east ( rarely what we think of as musk; more like...
  33. Re: The longest longevity fragrance you've ever used?

    Whatever is in Black Orchid does not come off. It doesn't so much fade as you shed skin cells until all the ones that smell of Black Orchid have fallen off.
  34. Replies

    Re: Casual coffee date fragrance?

    I recommend Phaedon: Dzhari as your date fragrance, but all the coffee fragrances I've smelled unfortunately have smelled terrible.
  35. Re: Designer scents that equals or betters Niche

    There are so many terrible niche fragrances it's not hard to find a designer better than some niche fragrances. I'm pretty sure whole celebuscent lines are better then whatever they put in bottles of...
  36. Re: Which scent have you worn the longest on a CONSISTENT basis?

    I've been wearing Tubereuse Criminelle fairly consistently since I first tried it in 2009. Even after reformulation, it's been good to me.
  37. Replies

    Re: How macho is your wardrobe?


    I've found duchesses nesting in my fragrance wardrobe.
  38. Replies

    Re: What Is Your Top 5 As Of Right Now?

    Une Fleur de Cassie
    Shalimar ( vintage only )
    Santal de Mysore
    Iris Poudre
    Rozy VDE
  39. Re: What is your strongest chastity belt scent?

    Santal de Mysore repels folks like no tomorrow. I love it, but I think at least have of the people I've shown it to find is viscerally revolting. They probably eat a lot less Indian than I do.
  40. Re: What are your thoughts on Tom Ford's Black Orchid?

    A hot mess of a scent. I alternate between finding it noxious to finding it compelling. One of the few modern designer fragrances that really makes a statement, though.
  41. Replies

    Poll: Re: Which is your favorite Frederic Malle?

    Une Fleur de Cassie by far - it's my favorite fragrance. That being said, it's an exceptionally solid line with a diverse array of fragrances ( unlike, say, Serge Lutens or Amouage, there are very...
  42. Replies

    Re: Which bottle(s) did you finish in 2014?

    Just one, Serge Lutens Rahat Loukoum, but I got it as a partial.

    I think the only bottle I've bought a full bottle and drained all of it is Une Fleur de Cassie, which I finished off earlier...
  43. Replies

    Poll: Re: What Are Men Wearing Nowadays???

    The only men I smell wearing anything but deodorant are foreign. Canadians don't do perfume; it's rare on women, non-existent on men.
  44. Replies

    Re: Oriental powerhouse?

    In terms of modern scents, Amouage Opus VI impressed me. It's not for me, but powerful, bold, dense, yet somehow very bright smelling, it's sort of the culmination of the modern takes on the modern...
  45. Replies

    Re: Creed vs Frederic Malle

    Malle has a number of my all-time favorites from any line, so I am clearly biased, where as Creed has two fragrances I've enjoyed moderately, both of which have been discontinued ( Cuir de Russie and...
  46. Poll: Re: Caron L'Anarchiste query/opinion/suggestions?

    Spicy orange and Atlas cedar. It's good, but I never wear it. I got it in a cheap blind buy years ago and never warmed to it.
  47. Re: Any retail places sell Amouage in Canada/Alberta/Vancouver?

    The Perfume Shoppe sells it here. The store is right downtown, so easy to find if you're visiting. The lady who runs it is very helpful.
  48. Re: Whats your the most favorite fragrance by Parfum d’Empire

    1. Cuir Ottoman and Ambre Russe. Equally good. I only own Cuir Ottoman, but I'd love to own the latter. It's mostly just that I own so many related fragrances already in the amber fragrance category...
  49. Replies

    Re: Knize Ten - is it worth it?

    I'm curious - how would you compare these three?
  50. Replies

    Re: Knize Ten - is it worth it?

    K10 has recently been reformulated for significantly the worse. That being said, it's always been a big-girl's blouse in terms of having a large amount of big, powdery florals ( specifically orange...
  51. Thread: cumin note

    by Sugandaraja

    Re: cumin note

    I'll second both of these excellent suggestions.
  52. Thread: cumin note

    by Sugandaraja

    Re: cumin note

    Serge Lutens' Arabie is excellent in this respect, and quite powerfully cumin-y. It's a divisive scent though; sample first. Slightly subtler cumin odes in that same line are Santal de Mysore ( cumin...
  53. Replies

    Re: Favorite fragrance from Thierry Mugler?

    I've smelled a lot of them, and I must confess, none of them have done much for me, though I do see why they're big.

    A Travers Le Miroir is the most strikingly original I've smelled in the line,...
  54. Replies

    Re: Shave or beards?

    This. I don't have much commitment when it comes to this... I'll spend a few weeks beardy, then a few weeks clean-shaven.

    I like that my beard is full of red hair ( my brown haired when it comes...
  55. Re: Is It A Safe Bet That If You Still Have A Thick Head Of Hair At 44, You Probably Won't Go Bald?

    My father had a full head of hair until around age fifty, then it rapidly started receding. My maternal uncles followed almost the same ( and kind of unusual ) pattern.

    I more or less know what...
  56. Replies

    Re: What's Going On With Tabac Blond !!!

    Caron has a really terrible record of reformulating their scents. Not only one or two changes over time, but their scents are consistently inconsistent batch to batch. Farnesiana and Poivre come...
  57. Re: Chanel Les Exclusifs - What are your favorites?

    I didn't enjoy 1932 or Jersey at all: they both struck me as neutered versions of existing genres ( jasmine and lavender, respectively ), but I've come around to the fact that those who find those...
  58. Re: Must-Have Niche fragrances that won't break the bank

    Serge Lutens' exports are usually easily had for considerable discounts online, usually clocking in at under $100 USD per bottle. Many quality fragrances in this line, though somewhat diluted by...
  59. Re: Any recommendations for a vanilla based frag?

    For a serious vanilla, it's hard to go wrong with Shalimar, but I want to put that out there with the proviso that I'm specifically recommending the extrait ( modern version ) or the EDP, extrait,...
  60. Replies

    Re: New Moderators!

    Thanks for the welcome, folks! :)
  61. Re: Compliment Getters... Are they worth buying?

    Compliments have no bearing on what I wear. I even wear some insult-getters!
  62. Replies

    Re: Eau Des Baux What Does It Smell Like?

    Eau Des Baux is in the sweet, haylike tobacco category. Of those, it smells closest to Volutes EDP, in my opinion.
  63. Re: It's unpopular, but you love it. What is it and why?

    Quite a few. Some poorly-received scents I enjoy:

    Penhaligon's Elixir - I'm charmed by this one; it smells like an Arabian "white musk" oil, only made diaphanous with aldehydes.

  64. Replies

    Re: Cuir Ottoman - upon further review

    I wear it infrequently, but I always enjoy it when I do. I think the reason I wear it as infrequently as I do is that has a certain edgeless quality; an olfactory pillow, that can make it a bit bland...
  65. Replies

    Re: What is your The Most Unique Fragrance?

    Too many, really: I love the oddballs.

    If I had to name just one, I'd name Vero Profumo: Onda. A strange beast, animalic honey and vetiver with a shrill green chypre accord. There is nothing...
  66. Re: How much leather in Frederic Malle EdP Parfum de Therese?

    I am indeed! A lot of my fragrant life is lived on FB these days, but I'm still fond of this place.

    I was trying to pinpoint what it reminds me of, and the closest I came was the 2006 Missoni...
  67. Re: How much leather in Frederic Malle EdP Parfum de Therese?

    I found this to be a peculiar melon floral chypre thing. I smell no leather at all; I don't find it to be more than mildly related to Diorella, either, another common comment. It's not a dumb scent,...
  68. Re: The monster which became a beauty, love on second sight!

    I have had this happen to me so many times I now fully distrust all initial impressions.

    My favorite fragrance of all time I hated initially: Une Fleur de Cassie. I remember describing it as...
  69. Re: What's definitely masculine is.. grossness?

    Non-perfume people tend to like more instantly pleasant, recognizable smells rather than complicated or strange ones. My most complimented fragrance ever was an orange-scented hair gel: I don't think...
  70. Replies

    Poll: Re: Do you like Oud...?

    I'm not fond of mono-ouds, but I've smelled it in a number of blends where it comes across charmingly. I like oud, but in the way I like civet: on its own, it's a little much.
  71. Re: What's definitely masculine is.. grossness?

    Most men in the west just want to smell "fresh", not "barnyard": it's not a common request. There seems to be a special love of animalic scents in the fragrance fandom, but that also is quite...
  72. Re: Does our sense of smell (discernment) improve?

    Pragmatically speaking, if you've never smelled lavender, you've definitely seen lavender, and seen that it is purple, it makes sense you expect it to smell purple.

    If you'd never eaten a banana,...
  73. Replies

    Re: Ethical Hypothetical

    The latter - I have a large number of scents I love but can't realistically purchase for myself.
  74. Replies

    Re: CARNAL flower Alternative?

    I love tuberose and I've tried dozens and dozens of them... and there is nothing like Carnal Flower. It's truly unique.

    The majority of extant tuberose fragrances descend from Fracas ( Beyond...
  75. Replies

    Re: Need rose suggestions.

    I'm familiar with Portrait of a Lady, but my favorite from the land of Malle is Une Rose. It's a difficult scent, but in its lingering sillage is the most compelling rose in modern perfumery.
  76. Replies

    Re: Five least favourite Malles

    Truly bad perfumes:
    1. Eau de Magnolia
    2. Outrageous
    I just happen to not like:
    3. Dans Tes Bras
    4. Geranium PM

    I've enjoyed all the others at one time or another.
  77. Re: Fragrances that you believe in, but just don't seem to wear as often as your other scents.

    Most of them. I always love Chene, especially, but I wear it once or twice a season, max.
  78. Re: Bois D'Argent my biggest fragrance disappointment to date.

    Out of curiosity, have you ever smelled orris powder? Separate from various iris extracts, accords, etc. Bois d'Argent always struck me as being closest to the slight musty-grainy violet-iris of...
  79. Replies

    Re: Unisex, or... is it, really?

    I regularly wear fragrances marketed to women, even famous ones, and it never comes up. When you do something every other day for years, and it's not been an issue once, the proof is in the...
  80. Replies

    Re: Unisex, or... is it, really?

    My general approach to this is simple: most non-Basenoters simply don't think about fragrance. If they smell a fragrance in passing on someone, they'll assume it's meant for them, if they think of it...
  81. Replies

    Re: Manly Gourmand??

    Maybe identify the notes you find to be manly, and then we can suggest something that combines them with gourmand notes in a fun or tasteful way. :)

    Serge Lutens - Fourreau Noir

  82. Re: Does our sense of smell (discernment) improve?

    I find it easier to discern notes and accords and "family resemblances" in perfumes, but I'm not sure I'm more discerning. I tend to only have a narrow focus at any given time. Half my most-worns are...
  83. Replies

    Re: Purchases for the coming summer?

    I should also add to that list Noir Epices ... I love it, but don't know when to buy it.
  84. Replies

    Re: Purchases for the coming summer?

    I've become much more restrained in my purchases lately.

    I have a double bill of Rozy and Ashoka on the to-get list for my birthday in July
  85. Replies

    Re: Favourite "jammy" scents?

    Roses have a strong tendency to smell jammy to my nose. Probably the most fruity of them I know is Byredo Rose Noir, which has a vivid berry compote accord to it.
  86. Re: Bois D'Argent my biggest fragrance disappointment to date.

    I love Bois d'Argent, but it's not my favorite iris by a long shot. Honey and milk ( though, not "turned" milk to my nose ) are definitely present; I get something a bit like anise in there, too,...
  87. Replies

    Poll: Re: Which ones do you love from this list?

    None of the above!
  88. Replies

    Re: Civet (Ungaro II alternatives)

    Bogue: Maai is quite civet-y in the base, with a herbal rather than citrusy top. Very old-world smelling, somehow, though you definitely need to be OK with over-the-top scents like Kouros to like...
  89. Replies

    Re: Top gourmand frags

    I think the only explicitly food-smelling fragrance I own is Serge Lutens Rahat Loukoum. It's basically marzipan and kirsch over a warm, musky base, with a bit of aldehydic "fizz" in the top notes....
  90. Replies

    Re: Shalimar - can a man get away with it?

    Short answer: yes.

    Slightly longer answer: yes, and unless you're fire-hosing it on, most strangers won't even notice your SotD, so wear whatever you'd like. Basenoters think a lot about...
  91. Re: 3 Fragrances you love by the same perfumer?

    Far too many!

    Vero Kern: Kiki, Rozy, Onda.

    Olivia Giacobetti: Dzing!, En Passant, Idole.

    Christopher Sheldrake: Mandarine Mandarin,Tubereuse Criminelle, Cuir Mauresque.

  92. Re: Frederic Malle - Cologne Indelebile - April 2015

    Chanel's cologne is pretty much perfect. It last not at all, but then that's not the expectation with colognes.
  93. Re: Frederic Malle - Cologne Indelebile - April 2015

    Despite Ropion creating my current favorite fragrance ( Une Fleur de Cassie ), I'm almost sure I'll hate this one. Bright citric clean musk is everything that was wrong with the last Malle, the...
  94. Replies

    Re: Brand New Montale - Aoud Lavender!!

    Oud and lavender sounds different enough to be worth sampling, though Montale's slightly industrial oud accord rarely sits well with me.
  95. Re: Single notes, soliflores and the search for simplicity...

    I agree with Highness Rose. It's so very much a rose-rose that it's a little boring, but it's beautiful and resolutely literal. Rose with your rose.

    Bruno Acampora Jasmin takes five min to...
  96. Replies


    I find travel sprays are great for alleviating this issue. Noxious fragrance in the room? Just whip out that travel spray, delicately apply 25-30 sprays, and pretty soon all him, you, and anyone...
  97. Replies

    Re: Your Top Subtle Fragrances.

    I'm not much of a person for subtle, but:

    L'Eau d'Hiver - papery almonds; delectable and subtle.
    Chene - a delicate, tannic woody-boozy fragrance.
    Violette Fumee - a delicate,...
  98. Replies

    Re: Unusual Designer Scents

    They play things safe these days, for the most part.

    White Linen - a brutally Avante Garde aldehydic monster, it just wasn't marketed that way.
    Clandestine - tinned pineapple floriental....
  99. Re: Has your blind buy success rate improved over time?

    I don't blind buy, but my idea of whether I'll like a perfume before I try it has become much more accurate due to:

    - previous experience with the line.
    - previous experience with the perfumer....
  100. Replies

    Re: Orange, but...

    My favorite orange-focused scent at the moment is Noir Epices. Despite the name, it's more about orange and geranium together, with a big helping of clove. There is nothing traditionally oriental...
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