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  1. Replies
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    Re: How popular is Habit Rouge?

    It's regarded as a classic but - fragrance fanatics aside - mostly favoured by more mature gentlemen, I'd say. I smell it a lot in France.
  2. Re: Habit Rouge Dress Code Longterm Availability?

    That's not what I said. What I said was that the SA at the Guerlain boutique said she had only two bottles left, and that she would not be getting any more. There may well be other bottles around. As...
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    Re: Shipping overseas: Dangerous Goods

    To answer your original question, yes, you can receive perfumes posted to the UK. It's just getting them out that's problematic.
  4. Re: Shocking move by Guerlain/LVMH - closure of Monsieur Guerlain website

    I do understand this stance. What about buying vintage? That won't put a penny into the pockets of LVMH.
  5. Re: Is Guerlain's Spiritueuse Double Vanille the best vanilla of its kind out there?

    It also happens to be very reasonably priced :) Let me know if you need help laying your hands on some.
  6. Re: Is Guerlain's Spiritueuse Double Vanille the best vanilla of its kind out there?

    SDV is very good but you have to be in the mood for a sweet gourmand.

    An alternative is Parfum de Nicolai's excellent Vanille Tonka, which never becomes too sweet and has the added bonus of...
  7. Re: Shocking move by Guerlain/LVMH - closure of Monsieur Guerlain website

    It certainly looks that way, yes.

    Perhaps LVMH got all heavy-handed not realizing the damage this would do to Guerlain? If that's the case, it shows a shocking ignorance and lack of regard on the...
  8. Poll: Re: What's the best vanilla smelling Guerlain perfume?

    *groan*
  9. Re: Shocking move by Guerlain/LVMH - closure of Monsieur Guerlain website

    If it's true, that's just crazy. I can understand that the name might have been an issue, but how can a brand stop other people from discussing its output? And why would it wish to do so, especially...
  10. Poll: Re: What's the best vanilla smelling Guerlain perfume?

    Why miss out Shalimar, which is the Guerlain vanilla fragrance?

    PS 'Matiere' is a line of scents, not a single fragrance. And Heritage isn't really about the vanilla, as donna pointed out ...
  11. Re: Didnt fall in love with Habit Rouge EDT --what are the chances that i will dig HR Dress Code ?

    Sampling is always a good idea - but in this case don't wait too long. Bottles are already getting scarce.
  12. Re: Habit Rouge Dress Code Longterm Availability?

    When I asked a Guerlain SA about it a few days ago here in Paris, she confirmed that once it's gone, it's gone. She had just two bottles left and said she wasn't expecting any more to arrive. So if...
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    Re: Vintage Chanel Pour Monsieur

    Interesting - thank you. I'm surprised you find the vintage Pour Monsieur less powdery: I wore it back in the day and remembering it having a noticeably powdery dry down.
  14. Re: Following your nose around the world - where would you go?

    I'd love to visit the cathedral at Santiago de Compostela when the botafumeiro is in full swing. That's my kind of incense.
  15. Replies
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    Re: Reformulations done well on vintage gems?

    Cuir de Russie is a great scent, but to my nose the current juice is not the same fragrance as the vintage. I expect the same would apply for Sycomore though the scarcity of the 1930 original makes...
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    Re: Warm floral scent?

    Spicy, woody and floral, possibly with rose, you say? Sounds like a job for Egoiste.
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    Re: Any luck with vintage Dune?

    Last time I smelt vintage Dune extrait there were no issues to report. It's wonderful stuff, that's for sure.
  18. Re: Guerlain temporarily suspending production of Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue!?

    Don't panic! It sounds like they caught the affected batches before they were released. They must have been in production late 2015.
  19. Re: Quintessential English Gentleman's Fragrances?

    I suspect the quintessential English gent would probably find Derby, Habit Rouge, Bel Ami. etc too baroque. Something bracing and understated slapped on by one's barber would be more the thing:...
  20. Re: NEW: Givenchy Gentlemen Only Parisian Break

    One of the worst names in perfume since Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau Si Sensuelle (see below).



    I'm not so sure. It smells of desperation to me. Look at Guerlain Shalimar Parfum...
  21. Replies
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    Re: Reformulations done well on vintage gems?

    Mitsouko is smelling very good these days (since 2013) - better than it has done for many years. I'd also say that Dior Homme is holding up well, despite all the scare-mongering that went on when...
  22. Re: Hermes Bel Ami - new bottle = reformulation?

    I haven't compared the two newest versions side by side, but I'd be surprised if it had changed yet again.

    I think what you're referring to as 'vintage' is the last version but one, whereas the...
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    Re: Smoky notes

    Choya nakh (toasted sea shells) sounds intriguing but it's not commonly used.
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    Re: Smoky notes

    Incense gum is more resinous, citric, piney and dusty than smoky - at least until it's burnt. Does it give a smoky odour profile on its own? I'm not sure.
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    Re: The Party in Manhattan

    I've seen it for sale, but OUCH! the price.

    Is it anything like Salome, does anyone know?
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    Re: Shipping Perfume Internationally?

    Officially perfumes are a no-no, but nobody here ever seems to care what's in the box.

    To be on the safe side, however, I'd recommend putting something like 'produits de beauté' on the box, as...
  27. Re: Suggest me a classic-style chypre that is easy to wear

    If you can get hold of Estee Lauder products where you are, Azuree is an excellent classic leather chypre and reasonably priced. It's in the women's range but is easily unisex.
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    Re: My first stableyard fragrance is...

    I think 'barnyard' is basically just American for 'animalic'.

    Urinous notes are interesting and can be strangely compelling, but scents with a horsey aspect are much rarer. I can think of only...
  29. Re: what's your favorite dark fragrance with a fruit note?

    My first thought was the plum-rose-moss-leather combination in the late, lamented Parure, which is especially dark in the extrait version.
  30. Replies
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    Re: Fragrance associations: lavender

    I find it neither masculine nor feminine - just soothing and uplifting in equal measure.

    Poor old Grandma. She gets blamed for such a lot: lavender, iris, powder, aldehydes. It's a wonder there's...
  31. Re: Scented Candles - The Silent Killers // BBC Article

    Hear hear! "Life is a terminal illness, and it's sexually transmitted."
  32. Re: Looking for a fragrance similar to Dior homme intense...

    LIDGE is definitely worth trying (and there's no point worrying about reformulation, which seems to be a myth).

    Another in the same vein - very close, in fact - is JPG's Kokorico, which is based...
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    Re: Youth Dew you say?

    I remember smelling miniatures of Youth Dew as a child (I was a precocious sniffer) and being mesmerised by its Cola note. You should definitely try it.
  34. Re: Scented Candles - The Silent Killers // BBC Article

    Cheap scented candles have got a lot to answer for. I like to think that the more expensive brands (I tend to use Cire Trudon) don't go in for buckets of harsh chemicals in the same way, but who...
  35. Re: Is there discrimination against men and offensive fragrances?

    The 'cologne guy' image seems to be an American (or North American) preoccupation. I've never heard of an equivalent in Europe either.
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    Re: Niche quality

    Haven't we just had a niche vs designer face-off?

    To answer your questions:
    (i) Yes
    (ii) No
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    Re: Guerlain Vetiver, is mine vintage?

    I'm not sure what your question is, to be honest. Your bottle does look like it dates to the late 1990s. Some would call that 'vintage' because it predates the current formulation. It's not unusual...
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    Re: Bitterness In Fragrances

    A touch of bitterness can provide contrast to compositions - and I guess a sense of balance is what all perfumers are aiming for.

    Some more bitter notes: black tea, birch tar (essential for the...
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    Re: Scrupulous Amazon and eBay sellers

    Hehe! That's a wonderful analogy.

    Never bought any perfume on Amazon, but on eBay I avoid stock photos like the plague and privilege smaller sellers.
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    Re: LIDGE: Don't get the hype

    Your point about others not 'getting' your fragrance is a good one. But we're rather a selfish bunch when it comes to perfumes - or at least I am. I wear what I enjoy, since i'm the one who'll be...
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    Re: New GUERLAIN, Promenade des Anglais

    I've never smelled that one. Is it good? Does sound like an interesting combination, but the price is distinctly off-putting.
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    Re: New GUERLAIN, Promenade des Anglais

    Apparently it's a reissue of something from the back catalogue, most likely the fig-iris Aqua Allegoria.
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    Re: Vanilla Lovers Unite

    That's too bad. But it's not a straight-up vanilla scent, so I'll forgive you :wink:

    Do try the Vanilla Tonka, though - it's well worth hunting down. The quality is excellent, especially when you...
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    Re: Today's Essential Leather Fragrances?

    If anything, leather was more a speciality in decades gone by, so unless you're specifically looking for modern, you've got a looooong list to work through. It would be a shame to neglect the old...
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    Re: Today's Essential Leather Fragrances?

    Hmmm, I'm rather fond of this one but never got any stinky cheese, or anything like it. It's odd how Parfumerie Generale is so overlooked on BN.
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    Re: Vanilla Lovers Unite

    Well, apart from the noble Shalimar (obviously), I have high regard for Parfum de Nicolai's Vanille Tonka, which has a touch of citrus and incense. Lovely stuff.

    Jicky is also heavy on the...
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    Re: Habit Rouge - should I go for it?

    My most recent bottle is two years old, but Habit Rouge has always had excellent sillage (or do you mean projection)?
  48. Re: Aside from the vintage Guerlains I've bought from this pharmacy, should I snap up any of the oth

    Havana
    L'Heure Bleue (even if you already have it)
    Cabochard would be good too
  49. Sticky: Re: Recently Discontinued/ Due To Be Discontinued Fragrances......???

    Just the extrait, apparently (for now ...)
  50. Re: Hi all. Is vintage Guerlain Habit Rouge EDC worth $30?

    In many cases they're certainly easier to wear, I agree. But as far as the classics are concerned - Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue, Shalimar, Vol de Nuit, etc etc - the extraits came first, not the EdCs, so...
  51. Re: Hi all. Is vintage Guerlain Habit Rouge EDC worth $30?

    'Very good' in their EdC concentrations. I'm not sure I'd say 'best', when you look consider the wonderful extraits.

    But Habit Rouge was initially released as an EdC - the EdT (and of course EdP...
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    Re: Looking for a subtle conifer

    Blenheim Bouquet is class in a bottle - lovely stuff, though not exactly 'modern', if that matters to you. Granville also springs to mind (but I find it less refined than the Blenheim).
  53. Re: Paloma Picasso Extrait - WoW Just WoW !

    I agree, David, the extrait is excellent stuff! There's undeniably a touch of 80s shoulder pads about it, but the quality is excellent.
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    Re: when does Guerlain MdM civet kick in?

    Right at the start. I found the opening 'challenging' for quite a long time, but now find that I crave it! But why don't you try it yourself and decide?
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    Re: Paris - Gift suggestions to GF

    I'd second a trip to Jovoy if you have time for plentiful sampling. They're very welcoming.
    Re Parfums de Nicolai, there's also a branch at 45 rue des Archives in the Marais, which will save you...
  56. Re: question about PM's ... lots to one person being linked

    This would be great! Forgive me for saying so, but PMs worked much better under the Huddler system. At present it's a nightmare having to click on individual messages to search for something, and...
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    Re: When Guerlain meets Graffiti

    Yes! Except that they've been chipping away at both for some time ...
  58. Re: Fragrances where you prefer the EDT Version over the EDP

    I agree. I'd also add:

    L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme
    Dior Homme
    Chanel Pour Monsieur
    Eau Sauvage (these last better in vintage, natch)
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    Re: Vintage LIDGE

    It seems unlikely to me that Guerlain would have launched something in 2005, only to be taken by surprise by IFRA regulations that came into effect just a few years later. Wouldn't it have been...
  60. Re: Ordering frags from the EU to the UK and the adventures of postal regulations.

    I've sent perfumes to the UK numerous times without any problems.

    If, however, you should want to return an item to someone overseas, you're a bit stuck. I don't think it can be done. The problem...
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    Re: Guerlain Ideal - Meh or MAGNIFICENT ?

    I find L'Homme Ideal revolting. Dr Pepper on steroids.
  62. Re: What one bottle of Guerlain fragrance (recent not vintage) will ALWAYS be in your collection?

    I love most of them, but Mouchoir de Monsieur is the one I wear most often and back up whenever I can. The nearest I have to a staple.
  63. Re: Is Concentre d' Orange Verte by Hermes too dated for nowadays?

    It's very modern. The light mint note lifts it out of the ordinary and really makes it sing.
  64. Re: Dior Jules (Current Formulation)..... Love, So So or Dislike?

    If it's not civet, it's something that smells very close (musk? castoreum?). Let's just agree that it's animalic.
  65. Replies
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    Re: Some of your regretful buys...and why

    Eau de Guerlain.

    Love Guerlain, love eaux de cologne. But this one - ugh.
  66. Re: Dior Jules (Current Formulation)..... Love, So So or Dislike?

    It's a great scent, but you have to be in the mood for lashings of civet. I (a longtime Mouchoir de Monsieur wearer) like it very much but it's quite full on, and others might find it challenging....
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    Re: Bertrand Duchaufour's Greatest Fragrance

    I stand corrected. And it kind of makes sense.
  68. Replies
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    Re: Bertrand Duchaufour's Greatest Fragrance

    He's one of the greats, that's for sure. I love his way with incense, and that's what I associate him with. In answer to your question: Avignon or Messe de Minuit.
  69. Re: Thierry Wasser: How has he been doing so far?

    Not in the slightest! I just dont seem to be able to pass up an opportunity to moan about caramel and white musk :wink:
  70. Re: Thierry Wasser: How has he been doing so far?

    I'd agree with you as far as his restorations are concerned, especially the wonderful Mitsouko. That Guerlain should still care for its heritage is impressive, and Wasser should be (has been)...
  71. Re: Thierry Wasser: How has he been doing so far?

    The problem is that we don't know how much of a free hand he has in creating his fragrances. Are all those super-sweet pink juices dictated from above by marketing - and therefore unavoidable - or...
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    Re: Help with vintage Shalimar

    Whatever you decide to do, do it over a bowl so that you can at least save the juice if the bottle breaks!

    I've seen globules floating around in factice bottles too, but if you smell the perfume...
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    Re: Who really likes Mitsouko?

    It will have some, but the first IFRA restrictions really kicked in around 2001. The 'problem years' for Mitsouko were in the middle of that decade, from memory.
  74. Thread: Bandit

    by saminlondon
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    Re: Bandit

    Are you sure? Never heard that before. Germaine Cellier sounds like quite a character, however.
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    Re: Myrrhe and Opoponax -- Let's discuss

    I find Oriza L. Legrand's Reve d'Ossian to have some noticeable opoponax in the base, which is deliciously creamy. It's an incense fragrance, but (aside from the pine-y opening, which lasts only a...
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    Re: Discussing Creed´s prices

    Who says Guerlain has failed? A couple of recent releases have been duds from a critical point of view, but commercially they're doing very well. Plus they have a huge range of top-quality 'heritage'...
  77. Re: Perfumers thoughts / opinions etc. on the IFRA / EU situation

    What I don't understand is how the extensive listing of ingredients on the box is going to help consumers. I don't think Mr or Mrs Average Shopper is going to know whether it's atranol, eugenol,...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Current Mitsouko EDP Spray

    Bad luck, Bonnette :( The batch codes are blind-stamped on the boxes, so any SA worth his or her salt would be able to tell you exactly what was in stock. Will they take the older one back?
  79. Re: What do the lady Brits wear for G. Fawkes Day?

    I must get to the Lewes celebrations one year. They look incredible. And this year's star effigy was priceless.
    ...
  80. Re: Perfumers thoughts / opinions etc. on the IFRA / EU situation

    I agree that Wasser did a good job here, but he sourced the low-atranol (or no-atranol) oakmoss from a supplier rather than developing it himself.
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    Re: Les Exclusifs--Impressions

    They're mostly not my style but it's all excellent stuff, no doubt about it. All credit to Chanel for maintaining the quality and not resorting to cheaper synthetics and other short cuts.

    I have...
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    Re: Is this sample vintage egoiste?

    I wouldn't describe Vintage Egoiste as dark yellow, though it's definitely yellower than the current.

    Whether or not your sample is genuine, I wouldn't base any assumptions on it. Samples are...
  83. Re: "I won't wear lady scents but I love Lyric Man and Insense!"

    That's strange. When I smelled Aramis 900 for the first time, I couldn't believe it was marketed as masculine.

    As cacio says, it seems obvious that a lot of men here will only consider fragrances...
  84. Re: Chanel Egoiste - new bottle? reformulation?

    I thought that the most recent reformulation - with the smaller cap - was considered an improvement on the one that immediately preceded it.
  85. Replies
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    Re: Current Mitsouko EDP Spray

    I know Frederic Malle has always been open about the pressures imposed by these restrictions. Personalise published a good interview at the beginning of last year:
    ...
  86. Replies
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    Re: Current Mitsouko EDP Spray

    Oh dear, Bonnette - bad luck. I've read on BN that the Guerlain boutique in Las Vegas is very helpful: perhaps you could give them a call and ask them to look out a newer batch? At least you'd be...
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    Re: jicky: eau de toilette or eau de perfume

    I haven't tried the parfum recently, but Jicky in recent formulations is known to have longevity issues. It's thinner than vintage, in other words - but that's no surprise.
  88. Replies
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    Re: Current Mitsouko EDP Spray

    The oakmoss is still there - albeit in a de-fanged form. After all, oakmoss has not been banned, just restricted.

    In this interview with Wasser, he's describes how he reworked the formula. As you...
  89. Thread: Derby

    by saminlondon
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    1,516

    Re: Derby

    Different age and different storage conditions, perhaps? Or a minor reformulation between the eagle bottle and the Habit Rouge style bottle? The latter is more recent and would have been around...
  90. Thread: Derby

    by saminlondon
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    1,516

    Re: Derby

    No, they were used for Mouchoir de Monsieur as well. Sorry, but there was never a women's version of Derby.
  91. Thread: Derby

    by saminlondon
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    Re: Derby

    Nope, I'm calling you out on that one. There was no feminine version of Derby.
  92. Replies
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    Re: Help me find resins to burn

    For quality, I'd recommend ecclesiastical suppliers or outlets that sell that better-known lines:

    http://www.zieglers.com/church-goods/candles-and-related/incense/?gclid=CLiz_byq58gCFYydGwod-2gKBQ...
  93. Replies
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    Re: Current Mitsouko EDP Spray

    I think the new-style low atranol oakmoss will have been used in your bottle, even if it's not listed in the official ingredients. Mitsouko was restored very recently using this new ingredient, so it...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Chanel Egoiste vs Creed Royal Oud

    They're referring to Egoiste Cologne Concentrée, a version that was released for a brief period only in the early 1990s. Standard Egoiste is still widely available.
  95. Replies
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    Re: Boutiques in Paris worth a visit

    Lutens at the Palais Royal is wonderful.
    Nose, rue Bachaumont in the 2nd

    Sens Unique, rue des Rois de Sicile and
    Marie Antionette, rue d'Ormesson if you happen to be in the Marais (and like your...
  96. Replies
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    Re: Frederic Malle Monsieur - new fragrance!

    Fragrantica? In other words, it's someone else's arbitrary categorisation, and nothing to do with the way Malle markets its own scents.
  97. Replies
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    Re: Frederic Malle Monsieur - new fragrance!

    Where did you get this from? On the Malle website there's no distinction made between male, unisex, whatever.
  98. Replies
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    Re: Frederic Malle Monsieur - new fragrance!

    If I'm right, this would be the first Malle marketed specifically to one gender, which strikes me as a retrograde step.

    Edit: I've just remembered something potentially relevant: the Estee Lauder...
  99. Re: Shalimar EDT, EDC, EDP, Parfum for a man to wear

    Honestly, it's only 'feminine' because women have worn it. There's nothing intrinsically feminine about bergamot, birch tar, smoky vanilla, iris, vetiver, incense or civet. If it were released by a...
  100. Re: Shalimar EDT, EDC, EDP, Parfum for a man to wear

    I agree. Any concentration would work, but to my nose the modern EdP and extrait smell better than the modern EdC (if you're in the US) or EdT. For the last two, try to get hold of vintage, which is...
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000