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  1. Re: Perfume Pyramid: What is the reason for categorising ACs the way they have been?

    There are lots of factors that dictate the behavior of a molecule. vapor pressure is useful as you have discovered but your missing molecular weight. There's at least 3 more factors.

    Generically...
  2. Thread: Skin Sensual

    by RSG
    Replies
    8
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    686

    Re: Skin Sensual

    Most people might say iso e super or cashmeran. I like tonquitone.
  3. Re: Help Recreating A Vintage Oil by Crabtree & Evelyn

    I got into perfumery for similar reasons. I have a "white whale" I wish I could reconstruct. I stayed in perfumery because it's a beautiful and stimulating hobby. I try to do more research on the...
  4. Re: Suggestions on making an Elemi accord which functions in the mid the base range.

    To me it's peppery lemon. So careful dosing of lemonile. I agree with the guiac. Also bisbolene, poivrol, extra elemol.
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    Re: Problem with marine notes

    I like aphermate. Also, find ozonil really objectionable. It's a bit of a tanget but try Alinyle. It smells like wet orange blossom. Have you tried precyclemone and myrac aldehyde?
  6. Thread: I smelled Okoumal!

    by RSG
    Replies
    5
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    582

    Re: I smelled Okoumal!

    I have had a hard time smelling musks and salicylates. I have diluted them to 10% and smelled daily for 3 months. I now have no problem picking galaxolide out of anything. I can smell all musks...
  7. Replies
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    Re: Norlimbanol balancing act

    If you use all materials diluted to 10% then dilute some norlimbanol to 1%.
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    820

    Re: Ripe Melon(pulp melon)

    One of the first things you should get for melon is melonal. Here is the TGSC page http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1019892.html There is a green bar on top called formulas where you can...
  9. Thread: Math Problem

    by RSG
    Replies
    7
    Views
    684

    Re: Math Problem

    Count the formula the same as the actual ingredients in it. Count the diluent added in it. Figure out what you want your final concentration to be. Add diluent less what you already added from the...
  10. Replies
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    887

    Re: More musk discussion

    Cashmeran, rosamusk, appelide and ambrinol are top note-ish musks also. Cashmeran pairs well with tonquitone.

    Rosamusk is really weird to me. It certainly comes off as green almost in the same...
  11. Replies
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    Re: Musk characteristics chart, plot axis

    Yea that seems pretty neat. I think you could look at it and tell. My only other idea is I wonder if 1-10 is really necessary. 1-4 might give cleaner information
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    Re: Musk characteristics chart, plot axis

    I asked my wife who is a data engineer at a large multinational company how she would deal with this for example. She said exactly that she'd do a chart like Bill's but that numbers would be...
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    Re: An exel sheet we can all share?

    I like the idea we can collaborate on google sheets
  14. Replies
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    1,228

    Re: Please help to identify very famous note

    There's a few options. rose acetate, peomosa and mefrosol. We'll see what others say.
  15. Thread: Perfume Game?

    by RSG
    Replies
    59
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    3,387

    Re: Perfume Game?

    Yes for 4
  16. Replies
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    Re: Help needed on how to dilute Cashmeran

    I keep mine at 50%.
  17. Thread: Abstract Perfumery

    by RSG
    Replies
    16
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    1,032

    Re: Abstract Perfumery

    Oh yes I was given the same advice when I was 9 and it changed my life. To have that permission to fully occupy myself and to not depend on another for my entertainment. Boy if they thought I was a...
  18. Replies
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    Re: An absolute monster

    Yes use your scale and do step down dilutions. It's the way to go!
  19. Thread: Abstract Perfumery

    by RSG
    Replies
    16
    Views
    1,032

    Re: Abstract Perfumery

    To me boredom is often associated with melancholy. There is a perfume that according to marketing is the most melancholy in the world called Remember to forget. It had an ink note. I made an entire...
  20. Replies
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    Re: An absolute monster

    I've used it in sea side accords, salty air, burning things, ash accords. .1-.3. In a normal perfume probably dilute it to 1%
  21. Replies
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    Re: what is this note?!

    I'm going to go out on a limb and say norlimbanol mixed with something else. It's pungent and you can feel it in your throat but it's dry. When mixed with ambroxan it can seem sweeter. I also notice...
  22. Replies
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    1,139

    Re: Dew/water/ozone ingredient

    The ideas can be so subjective that it's a hard question to answer. For berries, I recommend phenirat and berryflor. Acalea might fit too. One thing I have recently discovered that smell like fresh...
  23. Thread: Verdox replacement

    by RSG
    Replies
    21
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    1,431

    Re: Verdox replacement

    Verdox is used mostly for the green apple nuance it has, not the woody part. It's also a bit functional smelling. So depending on what you have you could see about replacing it with manzanate, c-6...
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    Re: Testing your accord blends - paper vs skin

    In the beginning it is neccesary to smell and test every material and accord skin, room, paper, different dilutions etc. But after years of experience you do get to a point where you can smell...
  25. Thread: Easing anxiety

    by RSG
    Replies
    8
    Views
    1,033

    Re: Easing anxiety

    Unphotogenic animals made me laugh https://www.boredpanda.com/funny-unphotogenic-animals/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organic
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    Re: 2 Caramel accords- Enjoy!

    Great job! I made a caramel and used a tonka bean replacer that I made.
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    714

    Re: Benzyl salicylate odor

    I am still quite anosmic to benzyl salicylate. However I can identify it with blind fold on. More of a lack of smell and a feeling more than anything lol
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    Re: Children Eau de Toilette base formula

    Often perfume for anybody should not have higher than 6% water. You don't have to add it since they include it in the alcohol. This leads to bacteria and mold growth. You can circumvent this somewhat...
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    Re: Smoke in targa by blackbird

    So I did some reading and it seems that it must be multiple materials giving the effect. Guaic can be a clean smoke, Choya loba. Hear that they are adept at using bases. There maybe the Teak base in...
  30. Replies
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    Re: Instant odor fatigue with Kephalis

    Somewhere we have a thread with links to a study that basically said that the nose can smell everything. The brain can't always decipher the signal right off the bat. Thus the advice to dilute to 10%...
  31. Re: Letís talk methodology and your approach in perfume making

    The idea that we build base to top is that in a composition with top notes it prevents you from smelling longer lasting notes if they are added after.

    It's important to me to have a really solid...
  32. Thread: Orivone vs Irival

    by RSG
    Replies
    3
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    680

    Re: Orivone vs Irival

    Iris nitrile is a super strong material used diluted in the 1% range. Used in tiny amounts in Irival. It lasts 80hours ish. Irival also contains myristate. Orivone lasts 330 hoursish. I have never...
  33. Replies
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    Re: Perfumersapprentice supplies- who uses them?

    I can smell cedramber and sylvamber quite well and quite strongly. Seems like you need some nose training. Some things are hard to smell until your brain gets used to them. Smell them daily diluted...
  34. Replies
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    Re: Perfumersapprentice supplies- who uses them?

    Are there any essential oils or synthetics that smell weak to you?
  35. Replies
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    Re: Perfumersapprentice supplies- who uses them?

    So you have a few things going on here. It'll be up to you to figure out exactly what!

    I'm glad you have a scale. If you weren't aware the note percentages you chose is called an hourglass. Really...
  36. Replies
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    Re: Perfumersapprentice supplies- who uses them?

    I wouldn't necessarily say that diluted accords are trash and not useful. You just have to be aware of what you are using. They are useful for learning workflow and composition etc.

    It's normal to...
  37. Replies
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    Re: Perfumersapprentice supplies- who uses them?

    I have not used perfumer apprentice fragrance oils except for the key accords. I found the key accords to be perfectly functional for perfumery use. I've enjoyed everything else they have offered. I...
  38. Replies
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    Re: b-damascone a-damascone

    I usually use them about equal and there is d-damascone also. Since you are using drops I would say that usually you would only use 1 drop diluted to 10% in 100 drops. For certain uses you would use...
  39. Thread: Green Tea Accord

    by RSG
    Replies
    50
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    12,323

    Re: Green Tea Accord

    Also nerolidol super important.
  40. Replies
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    1,048

    Re: High-Impact, Long-Lasting Conifer ACs

    Hexyl benzoate it one thing!!
  41. Replies
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    Re: Smell Sketches - Feb. 2020 - Hedione

    Yay gj xii. Tell more about it?
  42. Replies
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    2,785

    Re: Smell Sketches - Jan. 2020 - cis-3-Hexenol

    I've been sick for 3 and a half weeks I'm hoping the end is comming soon. Havn't been able to smell. Did about 5 hexenol sketches but never got to blend any of them. Can't wait for hedione!
  43. Replies
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    Re: Identification of a particular musk ingredient

    What about ethylene brassylate?
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    Re: Underrated Synthetics

    Here's my little list!
    Apritone
    benzyl butyrate
    benzaldehyde
    bisabolene
    currants black and red berry, whatever product you can find to try out
    butyl anthranilate
    strawberry glycidate...
  45. Thread: Advice for citrus

    by RSG
    Replies
    21
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    1,248

    Re: Advice for citrus

    Check out lime Oxide!
  46. Replies
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    Re: Cucumber and Vetiver ?

    One thing to know about cucumber is it's in the family of melon and violet. If I look for cucumber basenotes I'm going to look at Syringaladehyde, phenylacetaldehyde, farnesol, folione, calone,...
  47. Replies
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    Re: Do You Want to Play a (Perfumers') Game?

    I'm down for this!
  48. Replies
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    Re: davana accord ;years of struggle

    Thanks for this! I've been working on davana as well. But it's a monstrous formula and I'm glad to have a simple one to compare to and finally finish it up!! Appreciate you!
  49. Replies
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    Re: idea for cheaper accord that smells like cardamom

    Orinoix depending on how you work needs to be diluted to 10% or 1% or even 5%. It's super strong and if it's stuffy it's too much!
  50. Replies
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    Re: long lasting pepper note

    You totally need Maceal diluted to 10%!! Also, bisabolene and poivrol should help. Can try cumin materials but I haven't tried enough myself to say. Isoeugenol can contribute. Absolutes can last...
  51. Thread: Accords/Maceration

    by RSG
    Replies
    19
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    1,613

    Re: Accords/Maceration

    I don't usually bother thinking of the chemical reactions in a blend either. Except in the case that after sitting it gets worse or the blend changes entirely. I have had circumstances where I knew...
  52. Re: Can anyone recommend any good dye for controlling the colour of your perfume?

    It came as a gel for me. Part of the reason I liked it. The powders can be hard to use expensive, hazardous to your lungs, and float in your perfume.
  53. Re: Can anyone recommend any good dye for controlling the colour of your perfume?

    I have used dye before but I buy it locally from a soap/cosmetic store. It's the gel dye meant for soap. Works wonders in perfume.

    However, the color is so strong. If you put too much in. It can...
  54. Re: Self taught perfumers: What was your Ďah haí moment?

    I've had tons of moments that help to drive me on.

    1. I think the very first one is realizing you made something yourself that smells good.

    2. Making another thing that is great and going back...
  55. Replies
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    Re: Methods of measurement

    Pipettemen have been used by forum members before. You can use it for a small batch 100 drop or 10 drop batches especially with dilution. This is ok if it is all you aspire to. However, scaling up to...
  56. Re: New to perfume making, how safe is it to make perfume?

    I use oakmoss all the time. But then again I have read all the papers, and done a skin test. It is within my personal risk profile. And I do recommend that kind of research for every chemical you are...
  57. Re: New to perfume making, how safe is it to make perfume?

    Best remedy for accidents is often more alcohol. Got a resin your clothes, dissolve it with alcohol, got concentrate on your nose use alcohol, got it in your mouth, swig with vodka.
  58. Re: New to perfume making, how safe is it to make perfume?

    So first things first; you can look at SDS or MSDS to find out a lot of information on a chemical including safety and storage information. Many chemicals are not dangerous and regularly even eaten...
  59. Thread: Gas like smell

    by RSG
    Replies
    6
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    737

    Re: Gas like smell

    Companies like Axe and others use butane and propane which are odorless but have sulfur or mercaptan compounds added to them. From memory, I can't say that I specifically recognize the smell. Except...
  60. Thread: Mossy chemicals

    by RSG
    Replies
    22
    Views
    2,723

    Re: Mossy chemicals

    Don't forget hummus ether. I often use it paired with terranol. Hummus ether smells exactly like a pile of old wet leaves on waterlogged soil next to the base of a mossy tree. Keto isophorone might...
  61. Thread: Pomelo accord

    by RSG
    Replies
    13
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    1,586

    Re: Pomelo accord

    Try c-9 acetate for that as well.
  62. Thread: Pomelo accord

    by RSG
    Replies
    13
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    1,586

    Re: Pomelo accord

    I've tried both limonenes and I've made multiple citrus reconstructions and I really like using the sweet one. The terpenic one can come off smelling of cleaner instead of something natural. But it...
  63. Thread: Pomelo accord

    by RSG
    Replies
    13
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    1,586

    Re: Pomelo accord

    Yea now that I think of they are not exactly close in substantivity either. But I remember a quote I think from Kraft that said it was an ideal replacement for citrus reconstructions to avoid...
  64. Thread: Pomelo accord

    by RSG
    Replies
    13
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    1,586

    Re: Pomelo accord

    A good replacement for nerol is geranyl acetate. I like the idea of dimethyl octenone.

    It seems to have many things that differentiate it from other citruses. High amount of geranyl benzoate which...
  65. Thread: Pink water lily

    by RSG
    Replies
    0
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    365

    Pink water lily

    I am trying to find pink water lily. Working on it for a friend. They used water lilies from Calgon the pink one in 2000. Clearly they didn't have all the choices to use that we do now for lily smell...
  66. Re: Lyral Replacer formula - Let's talk about our choices and formulas

    I have not tried this but given what the product sheet has to say I'm betting 2 weeks on the strip minimum.
  67. Replies
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    Re: What is a "MUD" bad smell ?

    Buy some things like salicylates, benzyl benzoate, helional. Low odor items that give "space" in a composition. It will make efforts go better!

    So with mix smelling different It's true the nose...
  68. Thread: Mysore Acetate

    by RSG
    Replies
    2
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    815

    Re: Mysore Acetate

    To me it is a Woody ionone type that is in the same area as koavone, and vanoris but lasting far longer. Lasts shorter than ionones. So it's great as a bridge. But also able to support flexible...
  69. Re: Lyral Replacer formula - Let's talk about our choices and formulas

    What do you think of Majantol? I think of it as more lily than muguet.
  70. Replies
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    Re: How to 'Sketch' an Idea Economically

    My best suggestion lately is to break whatever your working on into accords. As long as they are well balanced you should get something decent no matter what. Of you don't like it the you know which...
  71. Re: Where to get same size photo of perfumes for website?

    Not necessarily some perfume launches come with press packs, if you can get them then you can use them. But of course, they are not standardized at all. The problem comes with any perfume that's the...
  72. Thread: Green Tea Accord

    by RSG
    Replies
    50
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    12,323

    Re: Green Tea Accord

    I made a green tea accord that I was pleased with. I aim to redo it sooner for more elegance. I didn't find it particularly challenging or needing that rare of materials. Before I made green tea I...
  73. Thread: Green Tea Accord

    by RSG
    Replies
    50
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    12,323

    Re: Green Tea Accord

    Hexyl benzoate would have a place too I think.
  74. Replies
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    Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    In perfumer parlance "fragrance oil" has some undesirable connotations. Using bases, on the other hand, get's rid of some of the undesirables.

    A lot of the time the fragrance oil business is based...
  75. Replies
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    Re: "Female Human" Scent?

    There is a female scent but it is subtle and hard to describe. It also depends on the person and what they ate.

    If I try to describe my lady I can definitely tell her pillow and shirt from anyone...
  76. Re: Fundamental notes that can be found in (almost) every perfume

    I read that the single most common ingredients in perfume and indeed in almost everything commercial is some form of cinnamon or derivitive like alcohol or aldehyde etc.

    To be honest though it's...
  77. Replies
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    Re: Looking for Oud like sweetness

    Benzoin?

    I order things from CC, consolidated chemicals in their website and Amazon.
  78. Replies
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    1,063

    Re: How to organzie oils and aroma chemicals?

    Right now mine are organized by bins of subtypes. Like I can pull out all peach materials. The down side is if something is ambiguous for me I have a hard time finding it. And once something is lost...
  79. Replies
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    Re: Looking for Oud like sweetness

    I like to use bisabolene and elemnol. And really it's years later and I'm still impressed with the Black Agar base. Just used .5% in perfume and it was just right. Certainly changed and added that...
  80. Re: Where to get same size photo of perfumes for website?

    112158
  81. Re: Where to get same size photo of perfumes for website?

    Photo 1 shows the setup such as it is.
    Light at the back (flashlight)on same angle as camera (cell phone) with a diffuser (sheet of paper)
    Blue light on the side (camp light) next to reflector on...
  82. Replies
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    1,832

    Re: Boosting Cashmeran ( And other restricted notes )

    One thing that makes the iso e super and similer mixes like ambroxan work is that they are really long lived notes. All of the ones you mentioned are pretty short lived. So one way to make it more...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Good perfume organ for beginners!

    I love it and it's very charming!!
  84. Replies
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    1,095

    Re: The 'Dark Blue/Purple' Note in Blackcurrant?

    My association is orris butter from iris flowers and really there is a whole host of things that smell purple to me.
  85. Replies
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    Re: The Deepest (Nondescript) Aroma Available?

    Ha, you're asking a question that almost needs a book! Also some other amazing threads on basenotes.

    But briefly and I'm sure other people can correct me or fill in. Part of what makes oud...
  86. Replies
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    Re: The 'Dark Blue/Purple' Note in Blackcurrant?

    I'll take a little crack at this. I haven't posted before because sense of smell is so subjective and things like color synthesia are even more personal.

    You said that beta ionone was a red...
  87. Replies
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    Re: The Deepest (Nondescript) Aroma Available?

    Sounds like it's affect or accord. Hard for one material to do all that I think. Materials can make great accords and naturals have great complexity that add depth.

    If your talking Ouds then there...
  88. Replies
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    Re: The Deepest (Nondescript) Aroma Available?

    I also like benzyl salicylate for deep and nondescript lol
  89. Re: IFF Captive, until now, available to us at PSH! (Edenolide)

    Have you smelled edenolide? Can you confirm how it smells? I read that it's a stronger than appleide with a brighter green apple part and an additonal honey facet , but otherwise smells and performs...
  90. Replies
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    Re: The Deepest (Nondescript) Aroma Available?

    Seriously typical white musk smell smells like laundry but otherwise is indescribable. I have about 15 musks and I would not give up any of them. There are some that smell mettalic, apple, berry....
  91. Re: Nooby: Greenish Home-Frag/Roomspray attempt with limited ACs

    I don't know that I think there are any specifically muguet and marine except helional. You can of course make a watery muguet but in my mind that is an entirely different set of materials.

    The...
  92. Replies
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    1,809

    Re: amber woody top notes??

    I have both koavone, mysore acetate. They are more woody than ambery and have an orris note. That being said I'm absolutly in love with them and use them paired all the time. They also fill in a hole...
  93. Re: Where to get same size photo of perfumes for website?

    To be honest a lot of people on amazon and elsewhere use photoshop to place the objects on a white background as perfume bottles. For fashion magazines they are often photographed on a dark...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Perfumers supply house & PK

    Dude the root beer... OMG !!! Better than root beer in a can has been for at least 20 years!
  95. Replies
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    1,205

    Re: Bacon Essential Oil?

    I've read that elderly smell photorealistic is a small amount nonenal which is a type of greasy oily smell and a tiny amount of indole which PA has Indole @ 1% in Alcohol

    Leaf alcohol is...
  96. Replies
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    Re: Ingredients for a petrol aroma

    I also recommend the orinox you can't go without it. Dilute to 10%.
    I've recently got a lot of Patchouli materials that might help. Things like patchone and api patchone both 10%
  97. Replies
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    1,367

    Re: Sweet Tonka note but not Gourmand

    So there is manzanate in aventus that is a bright green apple.
  98. Replies
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    1,367

    Re: Sweet Tonka note but not Gourmand

    Part of what makes Tonka and Tonka like things is alcoholic notes and lactic ones. So does it smell milky at all, alcoholic, coconut. None of these are fruit. What kinds of fruit are you smelling?...
  99. Replies
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    Re: I've got withdrawal symptoms...

    Haha I keep banging off PSH this morning too :p
  100. Replies
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    Re: DIY Newbie (Sort of) Setting Up and Lost

    I recommend some of the other musks like galaxolide. If you want animalic I also recommend tonquitone. PA also has Exaltolide!!!!

    I don't know what else you have but if you don't have costus or...
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000