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    Re: Fig tree

    Got it, thanks. From reading that thread it sounds like they are reacting together to produce something odourless and that happens fairly slowly over time. Useful to know, Iíve put a note in my...
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    Re: Fig tree

    Oh interesting: my chemistry isn't good enough to have predicted that & I'd not noticed a problem. What was the reaction with triplal?
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    Re: Fig tree

    Tons of great ideas on this one already but Iíll add in a few things that havenít otherwise come up:

    If you want the scent of the whole tree then I certainly think some woody background will be...
  4. Re: Different effects in a mix of ISO E SUPER and TIMBERSILK

    I guess since, as iForgot points out, Iíve bought a drum of it, I must have decided it was pretty good stuff ;-)

    I wasnít particularly trying to get closer to Iso Gamma Super as such, I just liked...
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    Re: home made Molecule 01

    Thank you, thatís very kind.

    The mix Iíve used that I think works well is this:

    10g Iso E Super
    6g Timbersilk
    64g Perfumerís Alcohol

    for a total of 80g, which is enough to fill a 100ml...
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    Re: home made Molecule 01

    I donít find this with the same mixture when Iíve made it... however you are using a higher proportion than the original and an alcohol that has both IPM and DPG added to it, which could be...
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    Re: home made Molecule 01

    Very good question: usually the only reasons DPG ends up in a fragrance are because either an ingredient was used that is pre-diluted in it, to make the formula cheaper to make or to Ďtidy it upí...
  8. Re: What does the "proof" value on labels mean?

    Yes, I read it just the same.

    I believe there is a slight additional wrinkle to it though, which is that alcohol percentages, within the EU at any rate, are normally shown as ABV meaning Alcohol...
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    Re: Leather, tobacco, and whiskey scent?

    It was a great project to be involved in, though quite challenging. In the end the whole design had to be completed in just 12 days (though I did have some background thinking time ahead of that I...
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    Re: Making Sandalwood Stand Out

    I think Christine a PSH was contemplating getting some, I don’t see it on the website at the moment, but perhaps that’s because it hasn’t appeared yet: possibly worth dropping her a mail and asking?
  11. Re: Creating EDP from Perfume Oils - Is it possible?

    Just to quickly add to whatís already been said here, if you do decide you want to do this then buy Perfumerís rather than Formulatorís alcohol and probably better to get it direct from Mistral. I...
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    Re: Leather, tobacco, and whiskey scent?

    Very sound reasoning. To provide contrast in my own leather scent (Sticky Leather Sky) I used an aldehyde / benzyl salicylate / orris accord and a "fresh outdoor air" accord.
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    Re: Olfactory darkness and its ingredients

    Interesting. I had a supplier here today with lots of things to smell that they'd like me to buy: trisamber was one. It's always difficult to judge when and whether to invest in yet another...
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    Re: Puzzled with ionones.

    I think the short answer is yes, there is a significant difference. Davidís already given a good indication of whatís different but in addition itís perhaps useful to know that the methyl ionones...
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    Re: Leather, tobacco, and whiskey scent?

    What a splendid description of the smell of Dalwhinnie! Youíve made me want to go dig out my bottle from the whisky cupboard now...

    Top class first post: welcome to the board :vrolijk_26:
  16. Re: Styrax (Liquidambar orientalis) recommendations?

    Just from reading the relevant Wiki articles it looks as though itís still in plentiful supply (unlike some of its close relatives which have been driven to the edge of extinction by logging).

    It...
  17. Re: A question on flash points to the scientists and mathematicians here.

    Fascinating looking at that chart and thinking about the implications. On the face of it youíd think that the average bar, particularly pre-smoking ban, would have been ablaze more often than not!
    ...
  18. Re: A question on flash points to the scientists and mathematicians here.

    Sorry, should have said: 3-Methoxy-3-Methyl-1-Butanol - the link goes to my website where thereís detailed information about it.
  19. Re: A question on flash points to the scientists and mathematicians here.

    I think there is more than one problem here and thus more than one solution...

    So, first, the 60.5 centigrade is indeed the point at which a material is considered ‘flammable’ for purposes of...
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    Re: Olfactory darkness and its ingredients

    Fascinating. Iíd have described most of those as Ďwarmí more than Ďdarkí but I can see what you mean, especially about Kephalis.

    For me one of the darkest fragrances Iíve come across is Ambre...
  21. Re: PONK - January blind sniff... odour descriptions here (spoiler alert past post 1)

    I am though ;-)
  22. Re: Recreating Green, Watery, and Fruity notes using Essentials, Absolutes, and CO2's

    OK so I think youíre saying that you donít have a philosophical attachment to Ďnaturalí, but rather you think itís going to smell better, more expensive, more natural and thatís why you want to use...
  23. Re: Recreating Green, Watery, and Fruity notes using Essentials, Absolutes, and CO2's

    You might start by asking yourself why you want to use only 'natural products' and exactly what you mean by that.

    Very few materials are used in perfumery, or indeed flavour work, in exactly the...
  24. Re: Soap advice please... from animal products

    This really isn't my area of expertise but I do know there are some very well qualified folk contributing to some of the Facebook groups, so you might try asking there. Do be prepared for a tirade...
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    Re: Heat protection

    I guess you mean George and Chris, and youíre welcome :-)
  26. Re: Getting the very last bits of an absolute out of the jarÖ

    If you put a known weight of ethanol in, and then weigh what you get out, you can calculate the dilution pretty accurately
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    Re: IFRA standards question

    Just to confirm the IFRA standards are all on a weight for weight basis and relate to the finished consumer product (with a couple of odd exceptions to the latter but none to the former).
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    Re: Original Eau Sauvage Dilution

    Yep, that's what I meant. Just informed guessing though ...
  29. Re: The art of Perfume vs. other arts: 5 Things I've Realized

    Fascinating post. There has been a lot of discussion around 4, which I agree is controversial. However I wouldn't want the wisdom of the rest of the list to be lost because of that. I think there's a...
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    Re: Original Eau Sauvage Dilution

    Good plan. But I wasn't thinking of added water, just the azeotrope: it's normally only the actual ethanol that is declared I think.
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    Re: Ambroxan

    Juliet Has A Gun were more honest in naming their version Not A Perfume 😀

    To the original question, I believe it's about 5%.
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    Re: Ambroxan

    Ambroxan is synthetic but it is identical with Ambrofix (also synthetic but made from a natural starting material extracted from clary sage) and cetalox laevo (completely synthetic and I believe now...
  33. Re: PONK - January blind sniff... odour descriptions here (spoiler alert past post 1)

    The presentation of these is just fantastic. The whole concept has been beautifully realised.

    It's a delight to read the thoughtful and insightful descriptions too. I rather wish I knew less...
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    Re: Animalid replacement?

    Have you looked at the Synarome animalic specialities? Or IFF's Tonquitone? Synarome are now part of Nactis but still producing some wonderful new products as well as the ones they are famous for.
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    Re: Original Eau Sauvage Dilution

    I'm not sure you can conclude that: don't forget there will be some water present too. Probably 5%, which suggests a 5% concentrate: quite possible for EdT especially then.
  36. Re: is Perfume use solvent from Dipropylen Glycol will long lasting than Ethanol?

    Good question. At some point I might put together a blog post on the subject of solvents. Meanwhile:
    IPM is much thinner, more mobile and even less polar than DPG. It also has a proven fixative...
  37. Re: is Perfume use solvent from Dipropylen Glycol will long lasting than Ethanol?

    Precisely.

    If you want to make a perfume last longer you do that by including appropriate fixatives and longer lasting aromatic ingredients, not by adding DPG, which merely dilutes the fragrance.
  38. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    Iíll just add this here, as Iíve already responded to the same question in another forum.

    First these are very complex questions without clear-cut answers. However we do have some very clear...
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    Re: Ethanol with bitrex

    Remember that when you think about toxicity, you also need to think about dose: everything is toxic if you have enough of it, nothing is toxic below the harmful level for that material.

    The great...
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    Re: Heat protection

    Agreed. BHT is about the most effective additive you could choose. Other UV stabilisers include the widely available benzyl salicylate and lower odour 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, though none of those...
  41. Re: How many oils to start making perfumes?

    Iím up to around 1000 in the palette now, of which I sell around 400 (350 ish in the online shop, more being added all the time). The main reason I sell ingredients at all is because I kept finding...
  42. Re: Which formula composition software do you use?

    Thanks for the promo Julian, but let me just update that second link:

    https://pellwall.com/resources/

    Eventually the pellwall-perfumes.com site will be completely decommissioned as itís been...
  43. Re: How many oils to start making perfumes?

    Just returning to the title question, I think the minimum palette you need to start making perfumes properly is around 50.

    Most of us rapidly end up with far, far, far more though ...
  44. Re: is Perfume use solvent from Dipropylen Glycol will long lasting than Ethanol?

    Unfortunately most of whatís in that article is either mistaken, oversimplified or misleading. There are some perfectly accurate statements there too but taken together itís really not very helpful....
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    Re: Hedione High Cis

    I have and use both regularly - both together and separately - youíll find my descriptions of each on the product pages of my website (scroll down for the details on products where Iíve keyed all the...
  46. Re: PONK - January blind sniff... odour descriptions here (spoiler alert past post 1)

    Just on the solvent: itís certainly going to influence how you perceive the material not only because it may contribute an odour of its own but also because itís a fixative (and with so much present...
  47. Re: PONK - January blind sniff... odour descriptions here (spoiler alert past post 1)

    Excellent start! As I know what this material is Iím not going to give my impressions for fear of giving things away too soon, but as a nudge towards better understanding can I ask a couple of...
  48. Re: A question regarding the use of isopropyl myristate in perfumers alcohol

    In short: no

    Besides the safety issue, the combination of isopropyl alcohol, methyl alcohol and, as David says probably benzene, or if not that toluene (also a common trace in anhydrous alcohol)...
  49. Re: Chemically, what makes a note a "fixative?"

    This is one of perfumeryís greatest mysteries, despite a lot of theorising, investigation and experiment, we donít yet have a convincing explanation of the way in which fixatives work. Most, but not...
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    Re: Using Santaliff in Oil Perfume

    Santaliff isnít necessarily regarded as the best substitute for sandalwood - normally a blend of different sandalwood substitutes are used - and certainly Hindinol is regarded by many as superior to...
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    Re: Pell Wall Sale: 20% off this week

    Iíve a whole batch of boxes going off via two different couriers this morning from the weekendís orders.

    The sale continues all week and for those of you involved in PONK who may find a gift card...
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    Re: Karmawood vs. Norlimbanol

    I have all three too and I think Paulís right, thereís too little to choose between them for it to be worthwhile for most people to invest in more than one.
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    Re: Pure musk help

    OK, that helps. Testosterone replacers are often perceived as having a scent similar to some of the sandalwood synthetics, so Iíd try adding some of those, possibly also a high-impact material such...
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    Re: Why is Garlic never used?

    A friend of mine who cooks indian food often (I practically never do so no knowledge of the matter) tells me that asafoetida is used in the tiniest amounts and the first time he used it the dish was...
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    Re: Pure musk help

    Can I ask first what it is that makes you certain the musk youíve fallen for is pentadecalactone, given that you have this material in pure form and find it unsatisfying?

    I ask because there are a...
  56. Re: Hiring a nose for formulas - General procedure

    Itís relatively unusual to contract on the basis you describe: most perfumers work for manufacturers or manufacture for themselves.

    As a result it is most common for fragrances to be designed by...
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    Re: Pell Wall Sale: 20% off this week

    Thanks Flick, Iíll get those sorted out for you asap.



    Yes, Iím open to shipping anywhere.

    For North America the system will currently charge you £39 - thatís the minimum size box I can...
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    Pell Wall Sale: 20% off this week

    As those on our mailing list will know Pell Wall did a whole campaign of offers on perfumes in the run-up to Christmas, so I thought it was the turn of the DIY community:

    I’m offering a discount...
  59. Re: Obtaining true iron or copper metallic notes

    Thanks Pears, itís taking a long time to get the site fully populated with all the information I want, but itís getting there.

    Odour descriptor tags were only finished this week and yesterday I...
  60. Re: Obtaining true iron or copper metallic notes

    Try this link for some other ideas of metallic materials:

    https://pellwall.com/product-tag/metallic/
  61. Re: Styrax (Liquidambar orientalis) recommendations?

    I donít know for sure, but I believe so: neither is a material I use though. As I remember Arctander suggests styrene is only ever used in minute traces in perfumery, so Iíd have thought 0.6% in the...
  62. Re: Styrax (Liquidambar orientalis) recommendations?

    In case itís any use to anyone I did a blog post explaining the odd nomenclature used for styrax / storax some years back.

    Iím not certain about this, but I believe the reason styrax oils are...
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    Re: Scented candle ingredients

    I donít know whether David would agree or not, but Iíd suggest Tony Curtis and David G Williamsí An Introduction to Perfumery as the best starting point for learning about perfumery: Iím sure I...
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    Re: Question about labdanum

    Iíll just chime in here to say that Iíve also bought from Matt and found him charming and his ambergris excellent: if you want to make your own tinctures, heís a good reliable source. There are...
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    Re: Blenders on TGSC

    Good point. Generally when the term Ďblenderí is used of an individual material it means, just as you suggest, that it will help to smooth and and synchronise a blend of other materials. Benzyl...
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    Re: The diy lab

    Perfumerís Supply House have pictures of a good range of different setups on their ďPage of AwesomenessĒ and I recently supplied a panorama shot of my main workroom to add to the collection. Mine...
  67. Re: PONK - A 'nose' club - Blind nose training amongst ourselves. Anyone interested?

    This is a splendid plan and impressive implementation too: well done!
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    Re: Question about labdanum

    I also use natural ambergris as well as a range of substitutes. Iíve written a blog post about the differences between various things called Ďamberí in perfumery that you might find helpful.
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    Re: Merry Christmas

    Happy New Year - may 2016 bring you fabulous scents of your own creation - and whatever else youíre striving for this year!
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    Re: Aftelier Agarwood Oil?

    Glad to see you back here Bill, Iím trying to be around a bit more myself too now :-)
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    Re: Which way to Lavender Town?

    Yet all those things are working - albeit in very small proportions - itís possible they wouldnít work in a system based on the Dowanols which are less volatile than MMB, I donít know I didnít test...
  72. Re: Good source for large volume glass or aluminum bottles

    I use Invopak for my aluminium canisters and for the sort of size you’re looking at I’d recommend a 5Kg Aluminium Flask as the best option.

    Like Paul I’ve had a glass container burst and have...
  73. Re: Grapefruit Chemical similar to Citronellal

    Paradisamide and Khusinil would be my top choices for this I think. The former is more powerful and as a result needs careful blending, the latter softer and easier to work with. Both are longer...
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    Re: Aging perfume concentrate

    I can imagine it being sold alongside fake ID and weed by shady characters ...
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    Re: Which way to Lavender Town?

    In the application I described here I used a blend of musks (15 ingredients in the blend) but at less than 0.5% of the concentrate. I also used a sandalwood blend (about 1.5%) and vanillin (again...
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    Re: Aging perfume concentrate

    Haha - could be that too :-)

    I thought it might be the inverse of all those Ďrejuvenating creamsí we see advertised ... though probably not that much market for a perfume to make you look older.
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    Re: Aging perfume concentrate

    No, thatís precisely what I said: however too much heat will likely cause side reactions that would not occur under normal conditions: Iím not suggesting you cook it.

    Warming the fragrance to...
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    Re: Which way to Lavender Town?

    I think I mentioned that I was using MMB as the solvent for a reed diffuser application for a hotel (at any rate if I didn’t say, that’s what it was for). The basic mix I used in the end was...
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    Re: Removing scent from skin?

    Gloves are essential for working with these sorts of materials in pure form in my view. I donít wear gloves for most perfumery work but whenever pure pyrazines or other high-impact materials are...
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    Re: 'Narcotic' Elements in Perfume

    A similar mixture was also used in times past as an abortifacient.

    For those interested in experimenting, nutmeg vodka is a more palatable way to consume it ... in my experience no more likely to...
  81. Re: Brief formula needed for scent sticks

    Probably a bit late now, but a couple of thoughts occurred to me reading this thread - Davidís ideas above are similar to the direction Iíd have gone but youíll need a very, very light hand with the...
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    Re: Silicone Pipette bottles

    Just quickly on the silicone: itís an extremely inert material and in my experience works really well for dropper bottles - much better than rubber - however personally I only really use that method...
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    Re: Replacing rosewood

    A couple of thoughts occur to me reading through this.

    1) Rosewood oils sold in small amounts for aromatherapy and the like are often not rosewood at all (or mostly not) having been heavily cut...
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    Re: Cade vs Birch Tar - differences?

    Iíd broadly agree with this view of the difference I think. The only thing Iíd add is that Iíve also used both together sometimes, giving an additional depth and complexity to the smokiness. Real...
  85. Re: Any formulas/recipes to make a fragrance similar to Armani Mania, Code, or AquaDiGio for men?

    Indeed. So hard to believe that I donít. My guess is these perfumes are organic only in the chemistry sense of the word. What do you suppose constitutes a Vegan perfume? One that involves no...
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    I can't comment on what you're using but the beta ionone I use is manufactured by Givaudan; the alpha by IFF: as always the material I sell is the same as I use myself.
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    Re: Need help about ambrox

    I'm not having any trouble accessing it Ö
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    Re: Escentric 01

    Yes it does:
    Alpha Isomer 12.2%
    Beta Isomer 33.5%
    Gamma Isomers (sum) 24.5%
    Sum of Isomers 92.4%

    No other components are listed.

    Itís interesting to note the implication there there is more...
  89. Re: how did you start learning aromachemicals?

    Yes, in that sense just the same. I guess what I was thinking of as the difference is that you had years with a perfumer while I only had weeks, you were constrained by the direction your employer...
  90. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    I think there are three factors:
    1) I didnít use Mimosa absolute
    2) You need less than 1% violet leaf absolute
    3) I used quite a lot of other very long-lasting materials to ensure I got the...
  91. Replies
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    One of my most popular and successful fragrances is Deep Purple, which is a violet soliflore. Iím obviously not going to give away the formula here, but I can give you an idea of the proportions of...
  92. Re: how did you start learning aromachemicals?

    Thereís lots of really good advice here already.

    My experience was very different from Davidís and probably more akin to that of most people on the forum: however something I found enormously...
  93. Replies
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    Re: Constructing a "Clean Cotton" accord

    A couple of suggestions I can add here, if youíre not already using Habanolide as part of your musk collection Iíd recommend including that: it helps to give the effect of a cotton T-shirt being...
  94. Adding a vanilla note to an existing commercial fragrance

    Iíve had the following question (slightly paraphrased) in a private message, but I thought Iíd answer it here so that others can chime in and everyone can benefit from the answers:



    My answer...
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    Re: Need help about ambrox

    If youíd like an exploration of some of the perfumery materials that are used under the term Ďamberí and similar, you might like to take a look at my blog post on the subject. Timon has given you...
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Sadly I decided it was too expensive to be justifiable for me. Irone is a good idea.

    Iíd agree with the wet and indolic bit, but not sure about the cardboard or creoslic description of violets...
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    Re: Escentric 01

    Just to answer this - now that Iíve got my actual drum of Sylvamber rather than just a sample - I have a certificate of analysis for it that tells me the gamma isomer is about 24.5% in this...
  98. Re: EU confusion - Ambrette and Tonka bean

    Iím not quite as well up on the detail of whatís coming as Iíd like to be, but last I checked it looked very likely that the atranol and chloratranol in oakmoss will be banned from use in cosmetics...
  99. Re: Overpowering materials that should be used in very small amounts

    One of my favourite naturals is in this category: Violet Leaf Absolute

    Others I didnít spot mentioned by others here that are easy to overdose include Floralozone, rose oxide and Ambermax. This...
  100. Re: Fragrances made from microbes and we're convinced they're the future of the industry

    Iím currently selling a version of PEA - phenyl ethyl alcohol - produced by microbial fermentation. Itís still a good deal more expensive than the synthetic, but a fraction of the price of PEA...
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000