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  1. Thread: Guilty Pleasure

    by cacio
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    243

    Re: Guilty Pleasure

    I also had a couple of materials that I thought too female to wear. And indeed I didn't feel comfortable with tuberose either (eg Carnal Flower and Fracas. Fracas, if you will, is even more pink)....
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    Re: Fragrances that smell like champagne.

    Seconding easyfish. Royal bain de champagne (now called Royal bain de Caron) was inspired by fruity champagnes.

    cacio
  3. Re: Has anyone else made a fragrance spreadsheet?

    Same here. I also add a few descriptive notes if I test something.

    cacio
  4. Replies
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    Re: Favorite Vetiver? Oud? Rose? Amber?

    Vetiver: Vetiver extraordinaire. Sycomore if you like it more woody. many houses have good ones.
    Rose: Paco Rabanne Calandre. As a house, Parfums de Rosine specializes in roses (including the...
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    Re: mini pass the sample: JAR

    Quite a different impression from me and Akahina. I don't get much iodine, but this is not the standard heliotrope. The longevity could be due to the fact that I shipped very little. With proper...
  6. Re: Looking for a good allrounder (versatile) for the winter

    Chanel Egoiste (the regular one): warm, elegant, sandalwoody, good for both regular occasions and for formal ones.

    cacio
  7. Replies
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    Re: Hungry for top notes

    As freewheeling was saying, certain notes simply evaporate fast, so reapplying is the only way to enjoy them. Citrus notes are typical of this.

    Nothing wrong in reapplying. I don't usually do, but...
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    Re: Good fragrance for rainy days

    When it rains here, I often use Bandit, a green leather. As you say, it cuts through very nicely. I don't think green is a problem, as long as it's sharp enough to cut through it.

    cacio
  9. Replies
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    Re: Le Labo City Exclusives

    They've done it a few times, but not every year. My guess is that they're going to do it again at some point, whether this year or in the future we'll see.

    cacio
  10. Re: Any perfumer ever use putrescine or cadaverine in a scent ?

    Etat Libre d'Orange Charogne (carrion) was supposed to recall vaguely such smells, though in practice I don't get much of the sort. I doubt they used the two molecules you say, but perhaps they used...
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    Re: Floral and Woody Scents

    I'm thinking Kenzo Flower or Balenciaga Florabotanica. Kenzo Flower is floral, rather dry, somewhat sweet, and fresh. Florabotanica is not as sweet.

    cacio
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    Re: Annick Goutal Heure Exquise and No19??

    Quite different. No 19 is mostly about the green florals to me. Heure exquise is much more soft, as Dane was saying, puffy, creamy white musks. Not particularly close to Chamade either, the base in...
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    Re: mini pass the sample: JAR

    james:

    I don't think I put in enough liquid for spraying. In any case, this is extrait concentration, super potent stuff, I think spraying would be too much. But I've never done it myself, so who...
  14. Re: Bought my first aquatic (Bvlgaria Aqva Homme) and it smells Sweaty on my skin? WHAT GIVES?

    I find aquatic molecules like calone pretty nauseous too, reminding me of decaying shellfish rather than beach. So it's possible that your nose reacts like mine to aquatics. Or, as others were...
  15. Re: Mystery vintage chypre: your help to identify it please

    It seems the ingredients appeared in many past perfumes, so it could be hard to identify.

    Aromatics elixir and Knowing are still extant in decent state, so one can verify, but they don't sound...
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    Re: Chanel Allure Line vs Dior Homme line

    Another one for the Dior. I feel it's the most interesting, innovative, unique of the two. The Allure line moves in more standard masculine fresh territories; well crafted within the gentre, but not...
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    Poll: Re: Oud Wood vs Musc Ravageur

    I voted oud wood because you clearly do not like the dirty musk in Musc Ravageur. I perceive it quite strongly too (though I think some people are less sensitive to it). If you don't like it, there's...
  18. Thread: Am I doomed?

    by cacio
    Replies
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    866

    Re: Am I doomed?

    Encre Noire is also primarily a vetiver, like the Guerlain, but has a lot of woody ambers, ie sort of woody, clean-sharp modern materials. Not necessarily a bad thing, it depends on taste. Since you...
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    Re: Seasonal considerations

    Welcome!

    Regarding how much stuff lasts, first make sure it's not olfactory fatigue. Our noses start ignoring a scent after some time, so ask other people whether they can smell you or not. You...
  20. Thread: Am I doomed?

    by cacio
    Replies
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    866

    Re: Am I doomed?

    These are trends, in fashion and anywhere else. Decades ago, men were supposed to smell simply of clean, good grooming (and dress in plain suits), while all the action was with women. Then in the 70s...
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    Re: Help me with new office fragance!!

    My vote for Geranium too among the three. I don't perceive is as too heavy. If so, as hednic was saying, one can simply spray less.
    Personally, I'm not a big fan of the OJ man, there's something...
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    Re: What's the best masculine rose?

    Among the perfumes that are primarily rose, I'd say Parfums de Rosine Rose Twill (but Rose d'homme is great too). Among perfumes where rose is evident but not predominant, I'd say Portrait of a Lady,...
  23. Re: Gurlian vetiver VS Zegna Essenza Haitian vetiver

    Vetiver, as material, has a rooty and woody aspect. Perhaps that's what you are reacting to. Many perfumes keep this aspect, or even highlight it, while others tend to stress the fresh and citrusy...
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    Re: L'Artisan Parfumeur - Rose Privée (2015)

    Interesting - would this be a special edition single vintage thing (like the narcissus or the orange blossom)? Or a regular addition?

    Since May rose from Grasse is supposed to appear in about 90%...
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    Re: Are there good "mall" fragrances?

    Anthropologie at some point carried a side line of Le Labo that wasn't bad, and Urban outfitters carried a side line of Histoires de Parfums. Sadly, that was long ago and last time I went I did not...
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    Re: Looking for a Fragrance Recommendation

    Chanel Cuir de Russie is still a reference smooth leather (expensive though).

    cacio
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    Re: Thoughts on ELdO Cologne?

    I like it too. It's a simple cologne, starts citrusy, then turns vetiver-woody in the drydown (which means that it lasts, as citruses wouldn't last). Perhaps a bit overpriced given other examples....
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    Re: mini pass the sample: JAR

    Gardenias do have this moldy, mushroomy note. It's seldom inserted in gardenia perfumes, but the flower has plenty of it. As a flower, gardenias are all but clean.

    I noticed that tomorrow is tax...
  29. Re: Is Armani Prive ever discounted anywhere? Or... is it too well controlled for that?

    I don't think the brand is ever discounted/sold through alternative channels. A few years back (with the wood bottles) there were reports that a batch of bois d'encens had appeared at a discounter....
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    Re: mini pass the sample: JAR

    Indeed, gardenia all the way, with the (in)famous mushroom note in evidence (other people call it blue cheese).

    Thanks for taking care of the packing - and too bad the vial was defective. Oh...
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    Re: Patchouli Base on Office-Friendly Scent

    As others were saying, I think patchouli is ok for office, as long as it's used sparingly.

    Anyway, for milder examples, I second your choice of Aramis 900. Also, Parfums de Nicolai Patchouli...
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    Poll: Re: Tom Ford Grey Vetiver or Dior Homme Sport ?

    I voted grey vetiver because DHS seems to have a sharp ginger-type note I am not fond of. But both are great as sports frags.

    cacio
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    Re: Can a man wear Tom Ford Plum Japonais ?

    It has a very woody background, so it's perfect for men as well. Besides, gourmand perfumes are now considered masculine.

    cacio
  34. Replies
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    Re: Best sandalwood and vanilla frag

    Chanel Bois des Isles is another famous smooth sandalwood, but it is quite expensive. Shalimar is still a vanilla reference, not big on sandalwood, though there is some wood.

    Be aware that true...
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    Re: mini pass the sample: JAR

    I have the same impression from this as you do. This is leather via animalic musks, without birch tar or isobutyl quinoline - so leather as suggested by a breathing animal. I don't know what the main...
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    Re: Makeup / lipstick / woman's purse smell

    The recent Chanel Misia is a violet-iris which recalls makeup - much more so than DH. There is a recent thread on it.

    In general, I think the make-up powderiness is given also by sweet violet, not...
  37. Re: Advice needed from the fairer sex: Inexpensive safe bets...?

    If you have a Marshall's/TJMaxx or the like nearby, try checking what they have, sometimes they have brand names at high discount. However, this is very random.

    Other than that, do you mean you're...
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    Re: Burlington Coat Factory.

    I've only seen the one in philadelphia. Yes, it's like other discounters. When I went there, I didn't find anything of note, but that's usual, these places typically don't have much, but once in a...
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    Re: Niche Counterfeits - Quesiton

    Hard to think that anybody would make all the effort to fake something that doesn't have a big market to start with. But refilling a bottle isn't very difficult, and I'm sure this happens.
    ...
  40. Thread: Kouros Silver?

    by cacio
    Replies
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    3,533

    Re: Kouros Silver?

    I tried this at the duty free a couple of weeks ago. As others said, this is a modern sporty masculine unrelated to the white bottle thing (whether in the old or current incarnation, which I am not...
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    Re: Designer or niche?

    I agree with Karesz and others. The offer is just so broad and wide, both in mainstream and in niche. I think one should try to smell as much as possible. Smelling niche can be difficult if one...
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    Re: mini pass the sample: JAR

    Yes, indeed, this is a powerful soliflore - or rather soli-material, so to speak. To me, it smells primarily of heliotropin (which is the main component of some white flowers). As other perfumes of...
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    Re: Etat Libre d'Orange - brand identity?

    I liked the fact that they came in relatively inexpensive 50ml as well.

    Gotta check Rien again - I'd find it strange that they toned it down, but everything is possible nowadays.
    cacio
  44. Thread: Le Labo Guaic 10

    by cacio
    Replies
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    403

    Re: Le Labo Guaic 10

    My experience with Guaiac is a bit like mikeperez. This is supposed to be one of these modern musky-woody ambery things, a background hum. Of course, it's possible that your partner has nose fatigue...
  45. Re: Amouage HOMAGE vs Amouage MOLOOK - comparisons anyone?

    As said - plus I think the quality of the attar was really deteriorating.

    Interesting take, I get more an ambergris than an oud from it, but it does have animalic notes.

    cacio
  46. Replies
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    Re: Name your favorite Amouage

    Gold man for me: rich, opulent floral with nice dirty musks.

    cacio
  47. Replies
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    Re: Etat Libre d'Orange - Rien

    ELdO is one of my favorite brands. Most of their stuff is actually quite classic. Then they have the truly avantgarde ones, like Rien, or Archives 69 (both of which I love), or the conceptual...
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    Re: Sports Fragrance Suggestions?

    If it's for the after, rather than the during, one doesn't really have to be tied to a sports frag. But perhaps you just want something fresh and simple to wind down after a big sweat.

    One...
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    Re: Etat Libre d'Orange - Rien

    Somebody unaware (not me) put on 12 sprays of the regular one. One can only imagine with which results.

    The official notes list:
    Incense, rose, leather, cistus, oakmoss, patchouli, amber, cumin,...
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    Re: Etat Libre d'Orange - Rien

    Interesting take.

    I don't get smoke either, this is not a smoky leather with prominent birch tar (for something smoky, you should rather look into Le Labo Patchouli). It's a big, bitter (but not...
  51. Re: I would like to have this empty bottle of perfume!

    Doesn't seem very practical. But definitely fun.
  52. Replies
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    Re: If money were no object....

    As Jackhunter, I'd have something reproduced for me with banned or expensive ingredients. Vintage Bandit, for instance, and so many others.

    cacio
  53. Re: Is Chanel Exclusifs Eau de Cologne a blind buy for me?

    I love it and in fact I bought the 400ml bottle. As gandhajala was saying, however, Chanel EdC is a traditional recipe of eau de cologne (perhaps with just a touch of green), that is, a fresh,...
  54. Replies
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    Re: Thoughts of Amouage Journey Man?

    I tried it once in store and I liked it, powerful spices, woods, incense, and tobacco. Luckily, I didn't get much pepper (which I dislike, like the sharp thing in Honor man).

    With Amouage...
  55. Re: What would you add to the collection if you were me ? How am I doing so far ?

    Good starter collection!

    I second the idea of more niche. For instance, you could look into Diptyque, which tends to be on the lighter side, or Lutens, which instead is warmer and heavier.

    cacio
  56. Re: Name your favorite civet leather patchouli fragrance and..

    Another one for the Dior. Though in terms of animalic leather, my vote is for Rien (but I don't detect much patch in there).

    Vintage Tabu rocked in all three dimensions, civet, patch, and leather....
  57. Replies
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    Re: Vintage Fracas EDT - recent purchase

    Congrats on your find! Vintage Piguet is quite a treat, too bad it's so expensive here.

    cacio
  58. Thread: New To the Forum

    by cacio
    Replies
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    410

    Re: New To the Forum

    Welcome!

    As you can see, early on you'll get lots of surprises - everything you smell will be new and exciting. After a while, preferences will settle - and you may even realize that what you...
  59. Re: Anyone else bet a sour smell as Shalimar is settling down?

    Shalimar varies a bit depending on vintage and concentration. But it does have a leathery note, I wouldn't call it sour, but definitely smoky leathery. But it's just a player among the luscious...
  60. Re: What is the real story with "vintage" fragrances?

    Seconding what most people said.

    a) matters because perfumes are reformulated for the worse, both because some ingredients are now unavailable (sandalwood, animal musks), and, above all, because...
  61. Poll: Re: Dinner with the Federal Reserve Bank of Chicago chairman. Which fragrance?

    Who was the guy?

    cacio
  62. Replies
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    Re: mini pass the sample: JAR

    Good they have arrived. I hope not much was lost in travel. Whatever leaked, I bet must have made the envelope really fragrant!

    cacio
  63. Replies
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    Re: mini pass the sample: JAR

    The mail seems to be slow. Just wanted to touch base to see if the samples have arrived.

    cacio
  64. Replies
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    Re: Why we have trouble describing smells...

    Very interesting. By chance, I recently read something similar in a book on the language of food. Cantonese apparently also has some abstract terms for smell, though apparently they are falling in...
  65. Re: The Telegraph dares to go where most BN members fear to tread

    Hedione? Oh well, whatever rocks one's boat. If this brings in more florals, all for the better.

    cacio
  66. Replies
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    Re: Best Vanilla scented Cologne? Help...

    I think the classic Caron pour un homme is still the reference. Fresh lavender together with smooth, and not too sweet, vanilla. Just perfect.

    Jicky would be another classic vanilla, in a fougere...
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    Re: Getting to know Helitrope

    I forget the exact year in which heliotropin was restricted, around 2010 I'd say. Sadly, the HB and Apres l'ondee that circulate now are already reformulated, so one cannot stock up anymore.

    cacio
  68. Re: My dad likes Aoud Musk, what else he might like ?

    If you cannot find vintage, the current is ok too. Of course, you could go for another Montale as well, they're all relatively similar.

    cacio
  69. Re: Guerlain's Muguet 2015 available as limited edition of 1,659

    The Guerlain muguets have usually been overpriced, presumably bought by collectors for the bottle rather than the content.

    cacio
  70. Thread: Old bottle

    by cacio
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    Re: Old bottle

    As others were saying. Typically, older versions are worth more, as perfumes tend to be reformulated for the worse. I think Oud wood has remained the same, so there is probably no difference in the...
  71. Poll: Re: Dinner with the Federal Reserve Bank of Chicago chairman. Which fragrance?

    Sounds like a very interesting event. Who is the person?

    I put my vote down (Musk oud), but as others were saying, the key is to go very light, whatever you put on.

    cacio
  72. Replies
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    Re: Looking for a mint, smoke, leather fragrance

    Not what you describe, but Lush Breath of God is a combination of smoke and superfresh vetiver (and a hint of candies too).

    cacio
  73. Replies
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    Re: Getting to know Helitrope

    Too bad you are falling for heliotrope, because heliotropin has been restricted by IFRA, with obvious consequences.

    Witness L'heure bleue and (reportedly) Apres l'ondee. The heliotropin in them...
  74. Replies
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    Re: Dried, dark fruits.

    Hard to think about anybody who surpasses Lutens in the genre (Ambre Sultan, Arabie, etc).

    cacio
  75. Replies
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    Re: Best niche line and why?

    Hard to choose only one. I am fond of Etat Libre d'Orange. They make many solid scents with interesting twists, and they're not too expensive for niche. They also tend to last very well on my skin,...
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    Re: A quick note on bottle sizes and cost/ml

    Good points, and I often go for 50ml as well. I like a lot brands like Parfums de Nicolai that sell 30ml, and without too much of a markup.

    There is one factor in favor of larger bottles though,...
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    Re: Joy, Diorissimo, or Soap?

    Indeed, some musks can be quite strange, and I think we all have different sensitivities to specific ones. I get cleanliness from White Linen. But vintage My Sin has the curious property of smelling...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Joy, Diorissimo, or Soap?

    Dane:

    good point. Of course, now I feel that we've gone a step behind. Many current masculine feel like they were first formulas for floor cleaners.

    kumquat:
    I get more jasmine than rose from...
  79. Replies
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    Re: To be discovered, not announced?

    Your skin seems to hold perfume very well. My skin eats perfume and this little amount would be gone in hours.
    So I guess it's a bit of both, some people like things stronger, and some people have...
  80. Replies
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    Re: question about PAO ( period after opining )

    No, it simply means that the bottle was produced before regulations or in a place where the regulation doesn't apply. All perfumes can be used for years and years if stored properly.

    On the other...
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    Re: Refilling bottles

    Basically all houses crimp the atomizer to the bottle - and this is, as you say, as a counterfeit precaution. Only Lutens, as far as I can think, has atomizers that can be removed.

    Most people who...
  82. Replies
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    Re: Diptyque shower gel and body lotions?

    I have not tried the two mentioned, but I have used Ombre dans l'eau shower gel extensively. Wonderful smell, just like the perfume. It lasts more than most shower gels, but still, no more than...
  83. Re: How many times has J'adore been reformulated?

    I have not followed myself, but I've heard several people report about reformulations. For instance, see the comments on BN
    http://www.basenotes.net/ID10210718.html

    Perfume critic Luca Turin also...
  84. Thread: Washington DC?

    by cacio
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    Re: Washington DC?

    It would be best to have it downtown for sure. At least, now there's the silver line to get there.

    cacio
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    Re: Let's talk Ambers

    I only know Ambre Sultan well. Ambra mediterranea is a rich, warm, straightforward amber. Ambre Sultan is full of spices, drier, dustier.

    cacio
  86. Re: Dior Homme Intense vs. L'Occitane Eau des Baux

    As most others, Dior Homme Intense. More complex and interesting. (and as l'homme, I actually prefer the regular Dior Homme, which has less vanilla and sweetness and is more retro ). Eau de baux is...
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    Re: Snuff de Schiaparelli blind buy

    Vintage? Definitely buy, a classic masculine, an aromatic tobacco, with a chypre base. But the prices I see on ebay are very high.

    I also don't know if there are recent, inferior versions - I...
  88. Re: Thinking to start with Montale Line - Please suggest the order of Purchase.

    I'd start from an oud or two, since that's what the house is famous for. So many to choose from. I'd say Black Aoud is the most representative (oud rose). Then I'd do Oud Cuir d'Arabie and Aoud Lime....
  89. Thread: Chanel

    by cacio
    Replies
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    Re: Chanel

    Most of the exclusives are worth trying. The warmer ones, to which you seem to be gravitating, are indeed CdR, Coromandel, and Bois des isles. Sycomore is a fresh and natural smelling vetiver. On the...
  90. Replies
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    Poll: Re: Which is your favorite Frederic Malle?

    I voted VE. Close second would be Fleur de Cassie, not listed. I am intrigued by the Magnolia one too, as a fresh masculine.

    cacio
  91. Re: Remember the violet candies wrapped in purple tinfoil?

    Not like straightforward Chowder mints, but there seems to be new interest in violets. This year, Chanel came out with Misia, which is a retro-lipstick violet-iris. Lush in Europe came out with...
  92. Re: Ahhh...SPRING in MAINE!  So...today I wore...

    Kouros has been reformulated. I have not heard of Body Kouros reformulations, but I haven't compared myself.

    cacio
  93. Replies
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    Re: Creed vs Frederic Malle

    Not a fan Creed here. But it's probably as you say. Those who like Creed like fresher, more streamlined and modern-style things. Also, Creed has a vastly wider distribution here in the US, so most...
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    Re: Kiehl's Original Musk--oil or EdT?

    I didn't notice any big difference, but I'm probably not the best person to say so because I think I am anosmic to the main musk.

    However, somebody here on BN recently claimed that the latest...
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    Re: Aternatives to Eau de Guerlain?

    Sometimes, people find neroli very soapy. Neroli (orange blossom) is often a big component in eau de cologne recipes, including eau de guerlain.

    Eau de Guerlain also contains a lot of verbena....
  96. Replies
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    Re: Joy, Diorissimo, or Soap?

    Indeed, I think you're right that these terms, like soapy or powdery, mean different things to different people. The point is, soap or powder have no smell, and they were perfumed in different ways....
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    Re: Overheating overload

    My skin eats perfume so I certainly don't have the issue. In any case, I second something fresh like Mugler Cologne or a vetiver (which smells fresh and slightly green), like Tom Ford Grey Vetiver,...
  98. Replies
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    Re: Spring fragrances

    Things have a way of changing. However, spring for me means finally getting back a bit to old Paco Rabanne Metal and Joy. I will also want to enjoy a bit the recently purchased Grossmith Shems el...
  99. Re: Really sorry for another "Is this real thread?"

    I don't know about the bottles. However, Amouage doesn't strike me as something that is faked-and even if so, one would reuse bottles, not go all the cost of copying and producing a bottle. so it's...
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    Re: ys uzac - oud ankaa

    Curious to see how it evolves. I see hedonist seems to like Ys Uzac.

    cacio
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