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  1. Replies
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    Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Ok, let me see what I can do.
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    Re: Neroli vs. Orange

    I have not smelled the al Haramain. Neroli (ie the flower) is different from the fruit (the orange). Neroli smells fresh, clean, with a hint of soap. Definitely a floral and not a fruit. If you are...
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    Re: NEW: Galop d'Hermes

    Wow-a modern Nombre noir, that's quite something!

    I like it a lot too, though I find the character quite different from Nombre Noir. Nombre Noir was still one of the big neon things of the era....
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    Re: NEW: Galop d'Hermes

    I bought the refill, of course, still expensive but cheaper per ml. Not a big deal to decant into an atomizer with a pipette.

    In Hermes space, this is a cheap item. Compared to $10K+ purses.
    ...
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    Re: Valentines Day choice

    I'm wearing Rose d'Amour by Parfums de Rosine.

    cacio
  6. Re: Friend coming to Nicaragua, can bring me Fahrenheit EDT OR Caron Pour Un Homme

    The current Paco Rabanne isn't really up to par. Can't think of much for $35. I stopped recently at Marshalls and TJMaxx (discounters) but didn't see anything of relevance.

    cacio
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    Re: Acqua di Parma Colonia Line?

    I find the citrus ones somewhat substitutable (original, assoluta, intensa, essenza), although there are slight differences among them. My favorites are original and assoluta.

    I'm less a fan of...
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    Re: Heat and Fragrance

    Agree with the others. Some heat doesn't do much. This happens all the time during shipping. Constant high heat for months is another story.

    cacio
  9. Replies
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    Re: Fragrances with the highest ratings in China

    Thanks. I wonder how they make these lists-presumably, there's a lot of randomness.
    But TdH is big in Europe as well, so no surprise.
    cacio
  10. Re: Good male fragrance for social/swing dancing lessons from my array of samples?

    Derby, which is very classical. But Green Irish tweed will work as well.
    As you point out, do not overdo, movement and body heat can amplify quite a bit.
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    Poll: Re: Guerlain's light citrus eau de cologne

    The 10 min mark is always a problem. Eau de guerlain used to last a bit longer, in part because it is a bit more than a neroli cologne, it has also a lot of green material, though I have not smelled...
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    Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Yes, the no perfume is a later addition to the line (I believe Tubereuse organique is the other), and it isn't available in the sample sets.
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    Re: Marrakech La Mamounia signature scent

    Fancy hotel...
    The website says that they were composed by Fragonard, so perhaps the house has something of the sort? I don't know much about Fragonard though.
    cacio
  14. Re: Ancient Perfumery - Rhodinium and Poestum rose

    Had IFRA existed, it would have certainly banned this...
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    Re: The bath oils of yesteryear

    I didn't know Inoui, so another thing I'll have to look for...
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    Re: Perfume on skin causing breakouts

    Ouch! Sorry to hear that.
    Never happened to me luckily, but allergies to aromachemicals are common, unfortunately.

    Needless to say, take a break from perfumed products (not just perfume), and...
  17. Re: Ancient Perfumery - Rhodinium and Poestum rose

    A little googling and found it in Dioscorides, spelled Rhodinon. It's simply rose oil, as others were saying.

    Look for rhodinon in this page...
  18. Re: Ancient Perfumery - Rhodinium and Poestum rose

    Very interesting. Never heard of Rhodinium. I'm assuming the name bears no relation with any modern usage of the name, chemical and otherwise.

    Paestum roses (Paestum being a town south of Naples)...
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    Re: The bath oils of yesteryear

    Bonnette

    thanks for clarifying the Weil oil situation. As Gliturko was saying, in the case mentioned it was Zibeline. Luckily, an old post of mine on this is still in the archive:...
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    3 random leathers - pass the sample

    I haven't done a pass the sample/sample giveaway in a while. Randomly, I recently received 3 random, not very common leathers. Anybody interested?

    They are:
    Indult Reve en cuir
    Parfumeide Cuir...
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    Re: Middle and Base Note candle question

    For the most part, it remains the same. The perfume in a candle is embedded in the wax (which is usually covered in glass), so it's not that the perfume in the wax at the bottom of the candle...
  22. Re: Caron Pour Un Homme vs Masculin Pluriel - your thoughts?

    Wow, either Caron has further reformulated this (not out of question, given what has been going on at the brand), or there's some material you are oversensitive to (or your bottle is off). I like...
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    Re: Middle and Base Note candle question

    Welcome!

    Not needed. A candle burns continuously, so it's not that the top notes go away first and then you're left with base notes. A candle more or less smells the same throughout.
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    Re: The bath oils of yesteryear

    Mixing up the Weils...

    That swiss pine concentrate must be nose-searing. Not that Youth Dew is exactly shy.
  25. Re: Bvlgari Au the Rouge? Au the dream more like

    Unfortunately I have not smelled this either. Parfums de Nicolai has a Fig tea perfume, but I suspect the style to be very different.
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    Re: Histoires de Parfums - Ambrarem

    That's a good description.
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    Re: Histoires de Parfums - Ambrarem

    I wonder how I missed this thread back then. Because I truly dislike this as well. There's something disturbing. The pepper up top is like a punch in the face, followed then by some mishmash of...
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    Re: Aramis Special Blend (2019)

    I need to retry then. To be honest, I applied to the back of the hand, which is not the best place to do so.
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    Re: The bath oils of yesteryear

    Watcher
    gorgeous!
    What are the ones in the back right? Revlon something, and the other two?
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    Re: The bath oils of yesteryear

    The precise activities in said place are unknown...

    Anyway, a quick google search brought this up.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12H90ZeCvJk

    Assuming it is the correct one, ample...
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    Re: Aramis Special Blend (2019)

    Got it, blindly, at TJ Maxx today. Light impression of the original early on, then moving to a light ambery tonka.
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    Re: The bath oils of yesteryear

    I love bath oils too and am sad that few, if any, still do them. I don't have any particular memory of them (I take showers at the gym, so no contemplative moment there)-but I just enjoy those few...
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    Re: Which 3-4 fragrances should I remove?

    I'm not a fan of the particular bulgari you chose, so I'd drop those.
    cacio
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    Re: Latest Zegna Essenze - Roman Wood!

    Thanks for the comments.

    Mediterranean pine trees are associated with Rome (modern, not necessarily classical). There's also a famous orchestral piece by Respighi called "I pini di Roma" (the...
  35. Thread: Clean Secrets

    by cacio
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    Re: Clean Secrets

    Perfumes in the past certainly contained more animalics and usually had a musky, lived-in background. Not so perfumes of today.

    Seconding Jicky/Mouchoir de Monsieur as another clean perfume with...
  36. Re: Frederic Malle launches collection of their classic Rose scents

    Not available yet on the US website. Available apparently in Europe, for eur 120. Bottles are 7 ml each
  37. Re: Frederic Malle launches collection of their classic Rose scents

    I have not smelled yet Rose et cuir, but i'm as skeptical as cook.bot. The material is forgotten because of the restrictions, so no chance there are appreciable amounts here. Bandit would whip this...
  38. Re: My (past and) current collection and what do add next?

    Many Montale aouds have a similar woody oud base, so to some extent what changes are the accompanying notes. Black aoud is the most classic (oud with rose), if you want something more animalic then...
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    Re: Rank all the Dior scents

    Too many to rank. but
    1. Fahrenheit
    2. Jules
    3. Dior Homme
  40. Thread: Gap filling...

    by cacio
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    Re: Gap filling...

    Quickly browsing, some more leather (perhaps Fahrenheit?) or a vetiver (Guerlain?). and seconding Egoiste as a warm sandalwood.
  41. Re: My (past and) current collection and what do add next?

    Welcome!

    The Rasasi is pretty warm and heavy, so technically you have that area covered. but since you seem to like Troisieme homme, how about another classic of the brand, Yatagan, which is woody...
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    Re: Latest Zegna Essenze - Roman Wood!

    Sounds like an aromatic woody, which would be in the italian tradition. I must say, Rome doesn't immediately suggest any association with woods. but it's true that mediterranean pines are quite...
  43. Thread: Fragrance match?

    by cacio
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    Re: Fragrance match?

    No perfume perfume, so to speak, is the aesthetic of many Bulgari by Ellena and of many Hermes (of the newer cohorts). Anything in the Bulgari eau parfumee au the line or some of the Hermes Jardin...
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    Re: Help on Chanel N°5 L'Eau

    I think so. No 5 l'eau is a sweeter, more stereotypically modern version of no 5, so it goes in the direction of Gabrielle (which is a fully modern/contemporary sweet floral), but to my nose it is...
  45. Re: Aedes de Venustas: what do you you think about their own perfumes?

    I loved Iris Nazarena. A really clever iris-tobacco that it's novel yet feels like a classic masculine. Unfortunately, it lasted very little on me-too little to justify purchase. But perhaps it was...
  46. Re: How to switch from dab to spray on Acqua di Colonia

    You need to hold the bottle firmly with the other hand. To avoid injury, you may want to cover your holding hand with a towel.

    cacio
  47. Re: Sorting through the Diptyque house, list your favorites and best iyo!

    Partysnake

    I enjoyed oud palao, a woody, ambery oud reconstruction, but with the hundreds of western oud reconstructions, it's hard to prefer it over many others.

    cacio
  48. Re: How to switch from dab to spray on Acqua di Colonia

    My Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella bottles didn't come with an atomizer (or, if they did, I have lost them)-so not sure.

    But the little plastic stopper on the opening can be removed from my bottle...
  49. Re: Sorting through the Diptyque house, list your favorites and best iyo!

    My favorite is Ombre dans l'eau, bracingly green and fresh.
    I also enjoy Philosykos (realistic fig), Virgilio (thyme, not sure it still exists), and Olene (dirty jasmine, same-haven't seen it...
  50. Thread: Eau D´Hermes

    by cacio
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    Re: Eau D´Hermes

    Glad you like it so much. Did you get the current formulation?
  51. Re: Does metal (jewellery/accessories/etc) affect the smell of your fragrance?

    Welcome!

    I have not experimented myself, but I've heard about this before. I remember one perfumer saying that the wrist is not a good place to put perfume. Plus, alcohol will ruin the jewelry...
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    Re: Eau de toilette, eau de parfum or parfum?

    As Bavard was saying, for modern masculines, edt/edp/parfum are really meant to be different, like flankers, so the smell profile is different. For traditional feminines, as Bavard was saying, the...
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    Re: Question about 70 years old vintage

    As others were saying. It depends on the status-has it been opened already or is it sealed? has it been exposed to light? (obviously, you cannot know about this second point).

    I'd say it is...
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    Re: Paco Rabanne Metal / Eau de Metal

    I love Metal.

    I have both an eau and an edt and I cannot smell much difference.

    I believe the perfume was originally marketed as for women, but not really sure. Back then, the unisex category...
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    Re: How much does spray vs dab changed?

    The difference is due to evaporation. when you spray, there are a lot more molecules in the air that hit the nose. When you dab, there are fewer molecules in the air right away. They will start...
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    Re: How much does spray vs dab changed?

    The top of a perfume can come off differently, spray gives a much bigger oomph. But after a few minutes it should be the same.
  57. Replies
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    Re: In the style of Eau Noire

    What aspect of Eau Noire are you interested in?
    Eau Noire has immortelle (ie caramel) with licorice (anise) and lavender. 1740 has immortelle but without the aromatic materials, that is, it's warm...
  58. Thread: Bel Ami or Eau?

    by cacio
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    Re: Bel Ami or Eau?

    Eau d'Hermes has a strong note of cumin-it's not a leather in the sense of the traditional ones, it's more about the slight animalic background. As others said, it's less strong than Bel Ami, but...
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    Re: Perfume storage temperature.

    The osmotheque keeps its perfumes at 12 Celsius, so as others said, you're fine.
  60. Thread: Choices

    by cacio
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    Re: Choices

    I'd say Phylosikos for warmer weather, and Tom of Finland for colder weather. Tom of Finland is a butch leather, but is softened with saffron, citrus and other materials, so it's perfectly fine for...
  61. Re: Who are some of the most important/greatest perfumers to know?

    Good list, I'd add a couple of historical references:

    Germaine Cellier: possibly my favorite perfumer. Her style is often described as fauvist, because she favored bold, stark accords. She created...
  62. Replies
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    Re: Chanel Pour Monsieur EDT vs EDP?

    As others were saying, the edp becomes sweeter in the base, so not sure I'd recommend it over the edt if you want fresh citrus. Essentially, the edt is closer to the original, without the oakmoss,...
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    Re: Osmotheque conferences

    English perfumery
    wed feb 26, 630pm ESCE rue sextius michel

    English perfumery is intriguing in many respects. It starts in the 18th century, and is sealed with the british empire under queen...
  64. Re: Big cats are into perfume, lots of love for Calvin Klein

    I recall a BNer here (forgot whom) who helped a zoo do some similar test. The big cats seem to be curious about strong perfumes, no matter what. The calvin klein (as opposed to some other brand)...
  65. Re: What do you consider an appropriate fresh/aquatic scent for a man in his 40s?

    I'm not a fan of modern aquatic/dehydromyrcenol stuff. In mainstream, i think the freshies of the Dior Homme line are more interesting (L'eau for aquatic, cologne for more citrusy).

    If you want...
  66. Re: Best unisex designer fragrances for spring and summer?

    The Hermes Jardin line tends to be light, somewhat citrusy and floral, and good for both.

    cacio
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    Re: Lucien Lelong perfumes?

    I've never tried any and am very curious.

    Luca Turin talked highly about Elle Elle (in reference to the current niche Mendittorosa).

    cacio
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    Re: Une Bois Vanille is total trash - fight me

    Is there a difference in versions by any chance with this? (not that there is any obviously IFRA noncompliant ingredient)
  69. Replies
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    Re: Raunchy, dirty and elegant leathers.

    Something can be elegant but have some background of raunchiness. In the same way as a dress can be revealing and yet elegant at the same time.
    Off the top of my head, at different ends of the...
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    Re: Favourite leather fragrance

    I think that Derby is still good in its current incarnation, but the base has changed obviously, less oakmoss and more woods and ambers to substitute for the missing oakmoss.
    I concur with Ncal that...
  71. Re: Acqua di Parma - Essenza, Osmanthus and Quercia

    I didn't like the Quercia I tried (too synthetic for me), but don't remember what version it was. I enjoyed Osmanthus, a very nice fresh floral, but for osmanthus I prefer the more ethereal and...
  72. Re: Cabochard Parfum splash - Question on decanting

    As foxbins was saying, parfums concentrations typically come in dab because spray could be too much. Typically, the glass cap works as dabber, dab yourself two or three times.

    You can of course...
  73. Replies
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    Re: Latest Diptyque Release - Eau Capitale!

    Just tried it in a store. Rose floral-nothing out of the ordinary but nice. No fruitchouli at all.
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    Re: Warm and cold weather niche fragrances

    I have not tried the Xerjoff so not sure about their longevity and projection. In general, citrus based perfumes tend to be fleeting, so it's always a problem with fresh perfumes. Fresh materials...
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    Re: Dried Rose Petals, Spices and Potpourri

    The SMN Potpourri is more or less what the name is, like the potpourri that they sell.

    I'm also assuming that Parfums de Rosine have something in their range, but not sure which one.

    cacio
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    Re: For the Vintager Who Has Everything

    So one was supposed to get a spritz on one's hand?
  77. Replies
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    Re: Latest Giorgio Armani - Acqua Di Gio Profondo!

    I don't recall the use of the word "profondo" for a flanker yet. Let's see what the depth means.

    If it's successful, we could then have a "profondo nero" and "profondo blu". And perhaps a...
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    Re: Millenials and Vintage

    Who knows... that would be good. But after all aquatics and fruitchoulis have been around long enough to be associated with an older generation. Also, with the beards sported by many millenials, it...
  79. Replies
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    Re: Travelo atomizer questions

    I don't have the Travalos so I'll let others answer regarding the size. Bottle sprays vary across perfumes. In my experience, travel atomizers are about average spray size. You should put into the...
  80. Re: what are you favorite vintage leathers from days of yore?

    I don't perceive Kouros as leather-but sure I like it.

    Back to the theme. Restricting myself to leathers that no longer exist, the animalic Schiaparelli Shocking and the sweet/butch Jolie Madame....
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    Re: osmanthus ,any recommend?

    I tried the ADP and enjoyed it, it's a clean osmanthus. But a bit simple, it doesn't have the (hidden) complexity of Osmanthe Yunnan (which highlights some notes, like the tea-like, slightly leathery...
  82. Re: Chanel's latest marketing videos - I am a Parfumeur

    Thanks for the link. Not among the worst ads.

    But once again it shows what Chanel is doing with those jasmine fields in Grasse now that IFRA does not allow their product to be used. They're...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Favorite Leather Fragrances!!!!

    With cold weather, I like leathers a lot too. Probably most used would be Rien, Bandit, Leather Oud (I do get leather out of this, obviously not the leather of say Tuscan Leather), as well as vintage...
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    Re: Chanel Sycomore EDT vs EDP

    As others said too, if you prefer smooth and spicy, then the EDP will work best for you. (And vetiver tonka should work as well, though I think that's too much in that direction.)
  85. Replies
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    Re: Chanel Sycomore EDT vs EDP

    I detect some difference, the EDP being smoother and less stark (which to me is a minus). But it's not day and night to my nose, and I am ok with edp as well, though I prefer the edt.

    I like my...
  86. Re: Fragrances - Do some lose their scent with time

    As hednic was saying, perfumes that are properly stored can remain in good state for decades.

    Some notes go off faster than others, especially things like citrus or aldehydes. Base notes like...
  87. Replies
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    Re: Chanel No 5 EDP Splash

    I don't recall seeing this in the US. But I would not be surprised. Chanel does many seasonal things with the No 5 franchise. I remember things like bath oil, spritz oil, various related products....
  88. Replies
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    Re: Aromatics Elixir - taming the beast?

    This is my mom's favorite perfume, so i guess I got used. But it is true that it is a strong one.

    The usual way to tame a strong perfume to one's nose is to apply far away from the nose. The...
  89. Replies
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    Re: Do any of these stand out?

    Many good ones in the list. Egoiste seems like a good price quality ratio.
    cacio
  90. Replies
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    Re: Reference Musk, Civet, and Castoreum

    I too find Joy really strong on civet (and pleasantly so)-in fact, I would have said Joy had I answered the original post. Jasmine and civet are one of the key marriages of classic perfumery.

    cacio
  91. Replies
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    Re: Chanel Egoiste vs Bois des Iles

    Egoiste is clearly a son of Bois des Isles. Bois des isles is smoother, more ambery, very soft and cozy. In other words, less woods and more soft materials. But they aren't miles away. If you like...
  92. Replies
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    Re: Opposite of powdery

    I'm thinking vetivers-especially if they are green and zingy. My favorites include Malle Vetiver extraordinaire and Chanel sycomore.

    cacio
  93. Re: Summery unisex recommendations - Aqua di Parma?

    I enjoy cipresso di Toscana too. Ok but not spectacular longevity on me. Along the same lines, AdP used to have a Mirto as well that was very pleasant. Neither registers as particularly masculine...
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    Re: Caron - Tabac Noir - 2019 Release ???

    Somehow, yet another patch doesn't sound that exciting...
  95. Re: I just tried “I am trash” from ELd’O and...

    Agree-very nice perfume, though not at all like the name.

    I love the house. Fat electrician is probably one I don't love-it's a good vetiver, but I perfer sharper, greener ones. ELDOs I love...
  96. Replies
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    Re: Acqua Di Parma packaging? plastic wrap?

    Like HSK, I think a likely explanation is that this was a return or something people tried and didn't like, and then the reseller put around another shrinkwrap, which was not as polished as the one...
  97. Replies
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    Re: Khiel's Original Musk

    Re: the part as strengthening the perfume, I haven't tried so I don't know, but it is true that musks last a long time and could be used for the purpose. However, the Kiehl's musk will add a smell of...
  98. Re: Neiman Marcus Exclusives worth checking out?

    Congrats! Great choices. I like them too, especially Portrait of a lady.
    And Monsieur is a very good patchouli, perfect for everybody despite the name (in the same way that Portrait of a lady is...
  99. Replies
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    Re: Just starting.... over again?!

    It seems like a good idea, since often the first impressions at the beginning of one's perfume journey can change as one smells more things and becomes better able to evaluate things. Occasionally I...
  100. Replies
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    Re: What are the best fragrances from Dior?

    Fahrenheit in mainstream.
    Leather oud in the prive line.
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