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  1. Re: Critically acclaimed but a commercial failure?

    But does that make it a commercial failure? If it's still producing fragrances, I presume it's still in profit (or breaking even).
  2. Re: Critically acclaimed but a commercial failure?

    The point, as noted above, is that Egoiste flopped in the US (someone at the time described it as 'too sophisticated' for the US market), which is why Egoiste Platinum was launched. Otherwise the...
  3. Replies

    Re: Heliotrope : Encyclopædia of

    L'Heure Bleue, of course!

    Parfums de Nicolai (also in the Guerlain style) have featured it in a couple of scents ... will have to look up which ones.
  4. Replies

    Re: For Fans Of Guerlain L'Homme Ideal...

    For myself, I realize that Guerlain are reaching out to a younger audience with this one. That isn't in question. What is in question is the quality and originality of L'Homme Ideal. I don't mean to...
  5. Replies

    Re: my first Guerlain

    Have a look on Crystal Flacon. Lots of nice samples available there.

    I do wonder whether Derby is the right place to start, though. It's a classic but might not be love at first sniff. Heritage is...
  6. Replies

    Re: A staple from Dior?

    Sample before buying. Always.
  7. Re: advice on buying vintage egoiste cologne concentree

    I agree that there's no guarantee. But a respectable seller with decent feedback ought to give you an honest answer.
  8. Re: advice on buying vintage egoiste cologne concentree

    If you are worried about it having turned, you could always message the seller and ask if it still smells good. There's always still a little risk - but at least you have something to go on.
  9. Replies

    Re: For Fans Of Guerlain L'Homme Ideal...

    This was the first men's release for Guerlain for years, and therefore a Big Deal.

    Nothing wrong with members saying whatever they like about it, as many times as they like.
  10. Re: MITSOUKO year 2013: 5-batches blind-test review.

    Welcome to Basenotes! And don't worry - it's always a pleasure to talk about Mitsouko :)

    The point about Mitsouko is that it went through a bad patch in the 2000s - the fault of IFRA-led...
  11. Re: Help! Hate Shalimar until the very end, but LOVE the finish

    Do persevere! And try different versions (pref vintage), as Mike suggests. It may take a while, but boy is it worth it.

    I haven't heard any rumours about VdN being discontinued and would be very...
  12. Re: Help! Hate Shalimar until the very end, but LOVE the finish

    Hmmm, if the OP finds Shalimar challenging, I can only imagine what she'll make of Jicky!
  13. Re: New! New! New! — Unprecedented Vintages and the Avant-Garde

    A lot of niche has taken a vintage turn in recent years (Roja Dove, MAAI), which would suggest that vintage fragrances (even slightly tidied up) have something to say to modern audiences.

    For me,...
  14. Replies

    Re: Best civet?

    I would not describe any of these as civet-heavy. Certainly not in the same mould as Jicky, Mouchoir de Monsieur, Kouros etc.

    If you look towards unisex and the distaff side, I'd recommend My Sin,...
  15. Replies

    Re: Which note ruins a fragrance for you?

    White musk, sweet berry notes, caramel and chocolate. Bleurrrgh!
  16. Replies

    Re: The very worst of 2014

    The major disappointment has to be L'Homme Idéal. What a mess! And for Guerlain, too.
  17. Re: Vtg Mitsouko extrait: is older always better?

    Please let us know how it smells!

    Personally I find that Mitsouko ages better than some others (Vol de Nuit in particular), though avoid any juice that looks too dark or poorly stored.

  18. Replies

    Re: Still on a Chypre kick.

    But not chypres!
  19. Re: Help! Hate Shalimar until the very end, but LOVE the finish

    I've just remembered PG's Felanilla. It has Shalimar's smoky vanilla but not the bergamot topnotes that some find challenging. You might find it just up your street.
  20. Re: Help? A Xmas suggestion for a girl that likes Dior Leather Oud...

    Some good choices above. Have you tried Dior's Oud Ispahan? It's in the same range as the Leather Oud and shares that slightly smoky oud note - so you'd complement each other beautifully :)
  21. Re: Help! Hate Shalimar until the very end, but LOVE the finish

    Hi Donna. Are you sure you meant heliotrope? There's no heliotrope in Shalimar as far as I am aware.

    Vol de Nuit is can be powdery, but in terms of 'feel' (especially the drydown) the OP might...
  22. Re: Help! Hate Shalimar until the very end, but LOVE the finish

    Keep persevering with Shalimar. Despite its formidable reputation and popularity, I don't think it's an easy one to like straight off, and I struggled with the opening for a long time (most of the...
  23. Replies

    Re: best tobacco scent?

    Slumberhouse Jeke gives you a potent tobacco hit, but it's a nicer as a smell than something you'd actually want to wear.

    The late, lamented Sous le Vent is a crackling good dry tobacco chypre....
  24. Replies

    Poll: Re: Fear of Vintage

    I always choose the best, be it vintage or current.

    People moan about the price of vintage but it all depends what you're looking for. Some marvellous things are unjustly neglected, and some can...
  25. Replies

    Re: IFRA Bootlicking

    This is a very complex issue, and there's a lot of misinformation out there (oakmoss is NOT being banned, for instance, and IFRA is NOT the same as the EU). If you are seriously concerned, you would...
  26. Poll: Re: Interested in knowing everybodys AGE and SEXUAL ORIENTATION

    The statistics will be skewed, for all the usual reasons, I suspect.
  27. Re: Top 40 Most Reviewed Fragrances on Basenotes with Overall Ratings

    Perhaps you could produce a table of fragrances listed by rating BUT ignoring the gender marketing? That would be interesting. Or perhaps there's another way to even out the playing field so that the...
  28. Replies

    Re: Is Amouage watering down ?

    What should people who want pre-reformulation juice be looking out for in terms of packaging and labelling?

    (Apologies if this has been asked before, but I'm just waking up to Amouage - and just...
  29. Replies

    Re: What's a good ambergris perfume?

    Real ambergris is still used in modern Mitsouko (extrait only). That said, a nicely aged vintage bottle from the 70s or 80s would give you a better idea of that wonderful ambergris halo.
  30. Replies

    Re: Today I Bought. December 2014

    Congratulations, Jon! I saw that one pop up on eBay. Pleased to see it went to a good home :smiley:
  31. Replies

    Re: A spooky, sensual forest perfume?

    Messe de Minuit wouldn't remind many people of forests ...
  32. Re: How to order perfume from Paris, France (Caron, Lutens, etc.)

    I don't want to tread on any toes, but I think the jury's still out on this one. For myself, I can't imagine a huge company like Chanel countenancing any noticeable variation in their scents based on...
  33. Replies

    Re: Sales Assistant Insanity!

    I was shocked at the agressive sales approach when I went into Nieman Marcus in March. Is this what US fume fanatics have to put up with all the time? It happens here in Europe too, especially around...
  34. Replies

    Re: Habit Rouge edt sillage/projection?

    I have no problems with the current EdT whatsoever. In fact, it's pretty strong.
  35. Re: Histoires de Parfums Opera line 1831, 1875, 1890, 1904, 1926

    I agree, it smacks of cynical opportunism - a way to make a fast buck. I'm so fed up with overpriced limited editions and blinged-up presentations. Just launch a good, original-smelling scent at a...
  36. Replies

    Re: Women's greens for men

    I wouldn't describe Mitsouko as 'green', personally.
  37. Re: If you could choose (nearly) anything from Dior...

    I'd recommend Jules too. Unjustly reglected. (It's not hard to find here in France, by the way: even Sephora has it.)
  38. Re: Guerlain Vol de Nuit - Compare vintage EDC to modern EDT?

    I agree that the current VdN parfum smells wonderful, but it has serious longevity issues compared to the vintage - and corresponding lack of depth. Still head and shoulders above most other current...
  39. Replies

    Re: SOTD Wednesday 19th November 2014

    Grey, chilly day here in Paris. We've done pretty well weather-wise so far, so I don't want to grumble (grumble grumble).

    I'm a walking assortment of Mitsoukos today, having progressed from (i)...
  40. Replies

    Re: L'homme Ideal de Guerlain?

    A friend recently offered me a choice between two bottles: Bleu de Chanel and L'Homme Idéal. I chose the Chanel. That's how bad it is.
  41. Re: Guerlain Vol de Nuit - Compare vintage EDC to modern EDT?

    Black and gold boxes were used right into the 2000s (I think), but yes, they're always a good guide. For most Guerlains I consider anything up to about 2000 to be good, vintage-wise. I have an...
  42. Replies

    Re: Help Needed Re Vintage Guerlain...

    David, there would originally have been an outer box that had all that information printed on it. It must have got lost over the years. Sounds like a nice bottle, by the way!
  43. Replies

    Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    If it's within the EU, you'll have to pay the VAT.
  44. Re: Christmas in a bottle! Which fragrance and why?

    For me, Avignon. I wear it every Christmas day.
  45. Re: Which fragrance do you use the most/least of when applying

    Leather Oud requires a VERY light touch, in my opinion. Too much can be, well, far too much.

    Mouchoir de Monsieur, on the other hand, needs a very liberal application for a decent (though still...
  46. Replies

    Re: Help dating a bottle of Mitsouko

    The 1983 date refers to the package design only. I presume it's an EdT?
  47. Replies

    Re: Best Irises Out There?

    Apres l'Ondee counts as 'nice and dandyish' in my book.
  48. Replies

    Re: Estee Lauder acquires Frederic Malle

    I was in the Frederic Malle shop here in Paris yesterday and asked the SA about the takeover. Apparently discussions have been going on for some time and involved thirty or forty meetings (I think...
  49. Re: Scent choice when you can't smell while having a cold....

    Oh, very droll. Chapeau!
  50. Re: Chanel No.19:Vintage vs New Reformulation?

    It's what they're programmed to say. Perhaps they genuinely don't know about reformulations, or perhaps they're just not going to admit to it.

    There aren't two kinds of No. 19.* What you find the...
  51. Re: Chanel No.19:Vintage vs New Reformulation?

    Hello and welcome! When did you buy the bottle you've just finished? The general consensus is that No. 19 - like so many other perfumes - has changed for the worst, but it's something that's been...
  52. Replies

    Re: The Philosophy Behind SPLITS Re: The Host

    Now that the rules have been relaxed a little and more bottles have become split-able, this might well change for the better. I'm gearing up to host my first split in the next few weeks and quite...
  53. Replies

    Re: SOTD Tuesday 4th November 2014

    Hello, gorgeous-smelling people!

    A generous streak of Shalimar vintage extrait for me, in preparation for an evening of tragedy, melodrama and heaving bosoms (Tosca). (Looking at you, Xscent!...
  54. Re: Do you think wearing men's colognes is degrading?

    As I understand it, Basenotes was created specifically as somewhere men could feel comfortable discussing fragrances. For that reason the majority of members are male, and the male discussion boards...
  55. Replies

    Re: Habit Rouge L'Extrait

    It's as different from the EdT as is the EdP. There's plenty of powdery, spicy styrax and resins, but not much in the way of bright citrus. You might struggle to recognise it.
  56. Re: Carven Vétiver & Carven pour Homme Relaunches (2014) {New Fragrances} {Men's Cologne}

    I tried the Vétiver on a card yesterday and was quite impressed. It's nice, dry, slightly smoky Vetiver seemingly in the Guerlain mould, with a citrus burst upfront. The proof will be in sampling it...
  57. Replies

    Re: Habit Rouge L'Extrait

    It's definitely in the same mould as the EdP. I find it too much, personally.
  58. Re: Should I wear Erolfa if I get infected with Ebola ?

    It's depressing for sure. Mods, can you do something before members who actually have something relevant and interesting to say migrate elsewhere?
  59. Re: Is it degrading for a man to wear a scent that smells unisex or even feminine?

    Lots of European guys wear pink shirts and suchlike without giving it a second thought. Perhaps this is a US hangup?
  60. Re: A cautionary tale. Uk basenoters please read

    I'm not convinced. I send regularly to the UK from France without any problems. Something obviously went wrong in this case - we just need to work out why.
  61. Replies

    Re: Perfume on watch straps

    Me too! My watch strap is a compendium of classic Guerlains at the moment and smells absolutely delicious.
  62. Re: Oakmoss restrictions in 2015 and impact on Aventus

    As I understand it, the percentage of oakmoss remains restricted.
  63. Re: Is it degrading for a man to wear a scent that smells unisex or even feminine?

    He means "as a man". English is not his first language, and the choice of adjective questionable, but I think the meaning is clear.
  64. Re: Oakmoss restrictions in 2015 and impact on Aventus

    Oakmoss is NOT being banned! It will need to have those irritating atranol molecules removed, and is subject to the same concentration and labelling restrictions as previously.
  65. Re: Try to avoid application to the right wrist

    My wrist smells wonderful, my desk smells wonderful. It's win-win as far as I'm concerned.
  66. Replies

    Sticky: Re: Proposed new rules for Split Forum

    Hi furrypine. Thanks for the clarification. I did see that clause but wondered whether something could be built into the rules so that it wasn't necessary to ask permission every time. Perhaps it...
  67. Replies

    Re: October Purchases 2014

    Hello Sago Palm. Hope you enjoy your samples! Many of us started out by looking for a signature scent but got kind of distracted on the way ...
  68. Replies

    Re: Which scent will you own forever

    I stockpile Mitsouko, Shalimar (vintage) and L'Heure Bleue whenever I can, finances allowing. If it came to it, the first two are acceptable in their current versions, but the prospect of vintage LHB...
  69. Replies

    Re: Luca Turin - latest reviews

    However we tot up the numbers, the sad truth is that it just feels like too many Shalimars.
  70. Replies

    Sticky: Re: Proposed new rules for Split Forum

    Hello Grant. I'm pleased to see the split rules get a makeover. This should make trying out fragrances much more accessible to all.

    A minimum split of 10ml sounds sensible (easy to work out, but a...
  71. Replies

    Re: Fragrance Reformulations 2015

    And it isn't banned. Look elsewhere if you want reliable information.
  72. Replies

    Re: What's closest to human skin??

  73. Re: Guerlain L'Homme Ideal...pathetic generic trash.

    They have a more talented in-house perfumer.
  74. Replies

    Re: Help with perfume experiment

    I'm not bothered by 'wasted' droplets (all part of the fun, if you ask me) but will certainly come back and read the results of the spraying experiment. As for the xanthan gum, adding it to a perfume...
  75. Re: Guerlain L'Homme Ideal...pathetic generic trash.

    You're not alone, David. I tried L'Homme Idéal (yet) again a few days ago. It's still actively unpleasant, as far as I'm concerned.
  76. Re: Realizing I really like Vanilla, what am I missing

    I can't believe I'm the first to suggest it, but:

    Shalimar - the reference oriental
  77. Replies

    Re: Fragrance as aphrodisiac?

    As others have said, it's often young men who seem to think that the right scent might just be the key to great success in dating. It's down to a lack of confidence, I think - that ability to feel...
  78. Replies

    Re: Shalimar edt or edp for men?

    I would say vintage extrait too (look for the black-and-white box). But vintage EdT from the 1960s and 1970s can also be deliciously smoky, almost tarry, with less emphasis on the vanilla compared to...
  79. Replies

    Re: When did Caron create dotted gold boxes?

    Hi Danieq. I've struggled with this myself recently. You are not alone!

    What Larimar is saying is that the older 'sunburst' packaging dates to from the mid-1960s to 1980. It is not the same as at...
  80. Replies

    Re: Shalimar v MdM

    Both have wonderful dry downs (but that's the case with most of the classic Guerlains). I'd say that the link between Shalimar and Jicky was closer, while the addition of patchouli in MdM takes it in...
  81. Replies

    Re: Shipping perfumes to Ireland.

    I'm sure they wouldn't x-ray within the UK, wherever a parcel was going. As for how many parcels they x-ray, I've no idea, but there are enough stories of destroyed articles to make me think it's a...
  82. Replies

    Re: Habit Rouge Eau de Parfum ?

    I much prefer EdT. The older is better of course (the atomiser with the gold cap), and bears a closer family resemblance to Shalimar, but even the new stuff is good. Some find the harsh citrus...
  83. Re: Balsamic, Aromatic, Sweet, Vanilla fragrances similar to...

    Another 'yes' for Shalimar! It's your reference balsamic vanilla - especially if you can find a nice vintage bottle.
  84. Replies

    Re: Shipping perfumes to Ireland.

    As far as I know, shipping into Ireland or the UK is not problematic - it's just hard to get stuff out.
  85. Replies

    Re: Looking for LICORICE!!

    I would suggest L'Instant de Guerlain (not the Extreme), which has a fresh, anisic quality to it.

    If you could lay your hands on a bottle of Ebene by Balmain, you'll get mint combined with anise,...
  86. Re: What's the most uncommon large fragrance bottle you've ever owned or heard of?

    I have a litre bottle of vintage Shalimar edt. It's the most amazingly smoky fragrance, smooth and rough around the edges both at the same time. Takes two hands to use it, though, and I'm terrified...
  87. Replies

    Re: What's a good Sandalwood?

    I used to enjoy Crabtree & Evelyn's sandalwood but suspect it's been discontinued. Worth trying to sniff out an old bottle, though.
  88. Re: What Types Of Fragrances Do You Guys Think We Need More Of?

    Coming late to this thread, but I have to say that that's a great idea. Something along the lines of Diorling, maybe, or just bright white florals, narcissus/jonquil, and nice suede or bitter leather...
  89. Replies

    Re: Rochas Femme - Reformulation

    Just how pink is it? I've never seen Rochas Femme look anything other than amber in colour.

    Cresp reworked it in the late 1980s, so it could that you have the 'original' reformulation rather than...
  90. Replies

    Re: $600 for 50 ml most expensive niche?

    If we're talking about the juice only (you could stick a diamond on a bottle of Brut, but it'd still be a bottle of Brut :wink:) Roja Dove and JAR would have to be up there. Plus, of course,...
  91. Replies

    Re: NEW: Guerlain Shalimar Souffle de Parfum

    Sounds intriguing, David, though I'm scared by the white musk and threats of sweetness. (I've rather given up on Wasser as a perfumer in his own right, I confess.) Will see if I can try it out this...
  92. Re: Not satisfied with anything I own or sampled. What happened?

    I prescribe more Serge Lutens for your sweet tooth, and a healthy dose of Guerlain on top (L'Instant de Guerlain, Shalimar, Songe d'Un Bois d'Eté, Encens Mythique, maybe Heritage ...). Plenty there...
  93. Replies

    Re: Dior Homme Parfum!?!?

    Well said! It's a general problem, of course, but it's always the men's stuff that ends up with the honking great synthetic woody-amber that won't go away. As if we won't notice or won't care.
  94. Replies

    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    My recent EdP and EdT (2013) both mention treemoss. Wasser has recently explained how he works with low-atranol oakmoss – which has a slightly different odour profile from the oakmoss of yore and...
  95. Replies

    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    The latest version contains oakmoss (with the offending atranol molecule more or less removed).
  96. Re: Buying vintage on eBay: better sealed or open?

    Weighing it won't help, unless you happen to know what an equivalent full bottle, plus packaging, would weigh. And I suspect most vendors wouldn't open a box unless you've actually bought it, by...
  97. Re: Buying vintage on eBay: better sealed or open?

    But if the bottle is sealed and wrapped, the seller won't know any better than anyone else what condition it's in ...
  98. Re: Jolie Madame bottles - different coloured juice.

    I agree that the darker liquid and label design point to an older vintage (and probably better juice).

    Vintage Balmain is lovely stuff, in my opinion, and still rather overlooked.
  99. Re: Buying vintage on eBay: better sealed or open?

    So the consensus seems to be that - providing the seller looks reputable - original, sealed packaging is not a cause for concern, and maybe even a plus point?
  100. Buying vintage on eBay: better sealed or open?

    When I'm scouting for vintage rarities on eBay, I occasionally come across perfumes that are in their original boxes and either sealed with cellophane or covered in their wrappings. While it's great...
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