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  1. Thread: Advice for citrus

    by RSG
    Replies
    21
    Views
    697

    Re: Advice for citrus

    Check out lime Oxide!
  2. Replies
    25
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    1,652

    Re: Cucumber and Vetiver ?

    One thing to know about cucumber is it's in the family of melon and violet. If I look for cucumber basenotes I'm going to look at Syringaladehyde, phenylacetaldehyde, farnesol, folione, calone,...
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    Re: Do You Want to Play a (Perfumers') Game?

    I'm down for this!
  4. Replies
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    3,451

    Re: davana accord ;years of struggle

    Thanks for this! I've been working on davana as well. But it's a monstrous formula and I'm glad to have a simple one to compare to and finally finish it up!! Appreciate you!
  5. Re: idea for cheaper accord that smells like cardamom

    Orinoix depending on how you work needs to be diluted to 10% or 1% or even 5%. It's super strong and if it's stuffy it's too much!
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    835

    Re: long lasting pepper note

    You totally need Maceal diluted to 10%!! Also, bisabolene and poivrol should help. Can try cumin materials but I haven't tried enough myself to say. Isoeugenol can contribute. Absolutes can last...
  7. Thread: Accords/Maceration

    by RSG
    Replies
    19
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    1,010

    Re: Accords/Maceration

    I don't usually bother thinking of the chemical reactions in a blend either. Except in the case that after sitting it gets worse or the blend changes entirely. I have had circumstances where I knew...
  8. Re: Can anyone recommend any good dye for controlling the colour of your perfume?

    It came as a gel for me. Part of the reason I liked it. The powders can be hard to use expensive, hazardous to your lungs, and float in your perfume.
  9. Re: Can anyone recommend any good dye for controlling the colour of your perfume?

    I have used dye before but I buy it locally from a soap/cosmetic store. It's the gel dye meant for soap. Works wonders in perfume.

    However, the color is so strong. If you put too much in. It can...
  10. Re: Self taught perfumers: What was your ‘ah ha’ moment?

    I've had tons of moments that help to drive me on.

    1. I think the very first one is realizing you made something yourself that smells good.

    2. Making another thing that is great and going back...
  11. Replies
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    Re: Methods of measurement

    Pipettemen have been used by forum members before. You can use it for a small batch 100 drop or 10 drop batches especially with dilution. This is ok if it is all you aspire to. However, scaling up to...
  12. Re: New to perfume making, how safe is it to make perfume?

    I use oakmoss all the time. But then again I have read all the papers, and done a skin test. It is within my personal risk profile. And I do recommend that kind of research for every chemical you are...
  13. Re: New to perfume making, how safe is it to make perfume?

    Best remedy for accidents is often more alcohol. Got a resin your clothes, dissolve it with alcohol, got concentrate on your nose use alcohol, got it in your mouth, swig with vodka.
  14. Re: New to perfume making, how safe is it to make perfume?

    So first things first; you can look at SDS or MSDS to find out a lot of information on a chemical including safety and storage information. Many chemicals are not dangerous and regularly even eaten...
  15. Thread: Gas like smell

    by RSG
    Replies
    6
    Views
    581

    Re: Gas like smell

    Companies like Axe and others use butane and propane which are odorless but have sulfur or mercaptan compounds added to them. From memory, I can't say that I specifically recognize the smell. Except...
  16. Thread: Mossy chemicals

    by RSG
    Replies
    21
    Views
    1,771

    Re: Mossy chemicals

    Don't forget hummus ether. I often use it paired with terranol. Hummus ether smells exactly like a pile of old wet leaves on waterlogged soil next to the base of a mossy tree. Keto isophorone might...
  17. Thread: Pomelo accord

    by RSG
    Replies
    13
    Views
    1,170

    Re: Pomelo accord

    Try c-9 acetate for that as well.
  18. Thread: Pomelo accord

    by RSG
    Replies
    13
    Views
    1,170

    Re: Pomelo accord

    I've tried both limonenes and I've made multiple citrus reconstructions and I really like using the sweet one. The terpenic one can come off smelling of cleaner instead of something natural. But it...
  19. Thread: Pomelo accord

    by RSG
    Replies
    13
    Views
    1,170

    Re: Pomelo accord

    Yea now that I think of they are not exactly close in substantivity either. But I remember a quote I think from Kraft that said it was an ideal replacement for citrus reconstructions to avoid...
  20. Thread: Pomelo accord

    by RSG
    Replies
    13
    Views
    1,170

    Re: Pomelo accord

    A good replacement for nerol is geranyl acetate. I like the idea of dimethyl octenone.

    It seems to have many things that differentiate it from other citruses. High amount of geranyl benzoate which...
  21. Thread: Pink water lily

    by RSG
    Replies
    0
    Views
    297

    Pink water lily

    I am trying to find pink water lily. Working on it for a friend. They used water lilies from Calgon the pink one in 2000. Clearly they didn't have all the choices to use that we do now for lily smell...
  22. Re: Lyral Replacer formula - Let's talk about our choices and formulas

    I have not tried this but given what the product sheet has to say I'm betting 2 weeks on the strip minimum.
  23. Replies
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    1,055

    Re: What is a "MUD" bad smell ?

    Buy some things like salicylates, benzyl benzoate, helional. Low odor items that give "space" in a composition. It will make efforts go better!

    So with mix smelling different It's true the nose...
  24. Thread: Mysore Acetate

    by RSG
    Replies
    2
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    618

    Re: Mysore Acetate

    To me it is a Woody ionone type that is in the same area as koavone, and vanoris but lasting far longer. Lasts shorter than ionones. So it's great as a bridge. But also able to support flexible...
  25. Re: Lyral Replacer formula - Let's talk about our choices and formulas

    What do you think of Majantol? I think of it as more lily than muguet.
  26. Replies
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    596

    Re: How to 'Sketch' an Idea Economically

    My best suggestion lately is to break whatever your working on into accords. As long as they are well balanced you should get something decent no matter what. Of you don't like it the you know which...
  27. Re: Where to get same size photo of perfumes for website?

    Not necessarily some perfume launches come with press packs, if you can get them then you can use them. But of course, they are not standardized at all. The problem comes with any perfume that's the...
  28. Thread: Green Tea Accord

    by RSG
    Replies
    28
    Views
    8,424

    Re: Green Tea Accord

    I made a green tea accord that I was pleased with. I aim to redo it sooner for more elegance. I didn't find it particularly challenging or needing that rare of materials. Before I made green tea I...
  29. Thread: Green Tea Accord

    by RSG
    Replies
    28
    Views
    8,424

    Re: Green Tea Accord

    Hexyl benzoate would have a place too I think.
  30. Replies
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    Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    In perfumer parlance "fragrance oil" has some undesirable connotations. Using bases, on the other hand, get's rid of some of the undesirables.

    A lot of the time the fragrance oil business is based...
  31. Replies
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    Re: "Female Human" Scent?

    There is a female scent but it is subtle and hard to describe. It also depends on the person and what they ate.

    If I try to describe my lady I can definitely tell her pillow and shirt from anyone...
  32. Re: Fundamental notes that can be found in (almost) every perfume

    I read that the single most common ingredients in perfume and indeed in almost everything commercial is some form of cinnamon or derivitive like alcohol or aldehyde etc.

    To be honest though it's...
  33. Replies
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    1,471

    Re: Looking for Oud like sweetness

    Benzoin?

    I order things from CC, consolidated chemicals in their website and Amazon.
  34. Replies
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    762

    Re: How to organzie oils and aroma chemicals?

    Right now mine are organized by bins of subtypes. Like I can pull out all peach materials. The down side is if something is ambiguous for me I have a hard time finding it. And once something is lost...
  35. Replies
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    Re: Looking for Oud like sweetness

    I like to use bisabolene and elemnol. And really it's years later and I'm still impressed with the Black Agar base. Just used .5% in perfume and it was just right. Certainly changed and added that...
  36. Re: Where to get same size photo of perfumes for website?

    112158
  37. Re: Where to get same size photo of perfumes for website?

    Photo 1 shows the setup such as it is.
    Light at the back (flashlight)on same angle as camera (cell phone) with a diffuser (sheet of paper)
    Blue light on the side (camp light) next to reflector on...
  38. Replies
    14
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    1,120

    Re: Boosting Cashmeran ( And other restricted notes )

    One thing that makes the iso e super and similer mixes like ambroxan work is that they are really long lived notes. All of the ones you mentioned are pretty short lived. So one way to make it more...
  39. Replies
    3
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    549

    Re: Good perfume organ for beginners!

    I love it and it's very charming!!
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    839

    Re: The 'Dark Blue/Purple' Note in Blackcurrant?

    My association is orris butter from iris flowers and really there is a whole host of things that smell purple to me.
  41. Replies
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    Re: The Deepest (Nondescript) Aroma Available?

    Ha, you're asking a question that almost needs a book! Also some other amazing threads on basenotes.

    But briefly and I'm sure other people can correct me or fill in. Part of what makes oud...
  42. Replies
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    839

    Re: The 'Dark Blue/Purple' Note in Blackcurrant?

    I'll take a little crack at this. I haven't posted before because sense of smell is so subjective and things like color synthesia are even more personal.

    You said that beta ionone was a red...
  43. Replies
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    1,567

    Re: The Deepest (Nondescript) Aroma Available?

    Sounds like it's affect or accord. Hard for one material to do all that I think. Materials can make great accords and naturals have great complexity that add depth.

    If your talking Ouds then there...
  44. Replies
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    1,567

    Re: The Deepest (Nondescript) Aroma Available?

    I also like benzyl salicylate for deep and nondescript lol
  45. Re: IFF Captive, until now, available to us at PSH! (Edenolide)

    Have you smelled edenolide? Can you confirm how it smells? I read that it's a stronger than appleide with a brighter green apple part and an additonal honey facet , but otherwise smells and performs...
  46. Replies
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    1,567

    Re: The Deepest (Nondescript) Aroma Available?

    Seriously typical white musk smell smells like laundry but otherwise is indescribable. I have about 15 musks and I would not give up any of them. There are some that smell mettalic, apple, berry....
  47. Re: Nooby: Greenish Home-Frag/Roomspray attempt with limited ACs

    I don't know that I think there are any specifically muguet and marine except helional. You can of course make a watery muguet but in my mind that is an entirely different set of materials.

    The...
  48. Replies
    7
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    1,435

    Re: amber woody top notes??

    I have both koavone, mysore acetate. They are more woody than ambery and have an orris note. That being said I'm absolutly in love with them and use them paired all the time. They also fill in a hole...
  49. Re: Where to get same size photo of perfumes for website?

    To be honest a lot of people on amazon and elsewhere use photoshop to place the objects on a white background as perfume bottles. For fashion magazines they are often photographed on a dark...
  50. Replies
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    671

    Re: Perfumers supply house & PK

    Dude the root beer... OMG !!! Better than root beer in a can has been for at least 20 years!
  51. Replies
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    854

    Re: Bacon Essential Oil?

    I've read that elderly smell photorealistic is a small amount nonenal which is a type of greasy oily smell and a tiny amount of indole which PA has Indole @ 1% in Alcohol

    Leaf alcohol is...
  52. Replies
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    1,691

    Re: Ingredients for a petrol aroma

    I also recommend the orinox you can't go without it. Dilute to 10%.
    I've recently got a lot of Patchouli materials that might help. Things like patchone and api patchone both 10%
  53. Replies
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    1,083

    Re: Sweet Tonka note but not Gourmand

    So there is manzanate in aventus that is a bright green apple.
  54. Replies
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    1,083

    Re: Sweet Tonka note but not Gourmand

    Part of what makes Tonka and Tonka like things is alcoholic notes and lactic ones. So does it smell milky at all, alcoholic, coconut. None of these are fruit. What kinds of fruit are you smelling?...
  55. Replies
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    Re: I've got withdrawal symptoms...

    Haha I keep banging off PSH this morning too :p
  56. Replies
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    1,534

    Re: DIY Newbie (Sort of) Setting Up and Lost

    I recommend some of the other musks like galaxolide. If you want animalic I also recommend tonquitone. PA also has Exaltolide!!!!

    I don't know what else you have but if you don't have costus or...
  57. Replies
    3
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    790

    Re: Depth to floral perfume with only naturals

    Also add more low odor or gentle note like carnation, copaiba, budhawood. Bisbolene, elemnol, salicylates and the very beautiful Sakura salicylate and laevo citronellol. Consider milky, lactonic...
  58. Replies
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    827

    Re: convertion 50% dilution

    The math in line 1 is the same as the math in post 5. Just different ways of doing it. Op post is the simplified version leaving out that to solve it you would end up dividing on both sides. Since...
  59. Replies
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    908

    Re: Longer lasting benzyl acetate type note

    I've read that it is but to me it's quite berry and rosy. But if your ok bending it that way you could.
  60. Replies
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    908

    Re: Longer lasting benzyl acetate type note

    Most people perceive benzyl acetate as a jasmine note and there are many jasmine notes. Gelsone for example.
    Can also be perceived as apricot or peachy. There are some materials that contain both...
  61. Thread: Mid note help

    by RSG
    Replies
    5
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    828

    Re: Mid note help

    All notes are Top, heart or base only by context. Pea is base compared to benzyl acetate but a top compared to vanilla. My hard and fast way is to say that when tested on strips Top is 1hr to 133,...
  62. Replies
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    2,150

    Re: Hedione Hedione Hedione

    In another interview or book he said there is always secrets in every formula and he also talks about line items. So I read it as either 15 items including his secret pyrazine mix or 15 items and...
  63. Thread: Cardamom linear?

    by RSG
    Replies
    38
    Views
    6,382

    Re: Cardamom linear?

    I got my pyrazines from PA have not tried coffee yet but yes they are diluted to 1%. The cardamom accord is really nice for me. I will keep on working on it and it will be kept as a material for me....
  64. Replies
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    2,150

    Re: Hedione Hedione Hedione

    Wow, what a wonderful interview and such a nice quirky personality. That's what I love right there is a personable old man lol And wow such small tips but so world-shaking lol

    I also second his...
  65. Replies
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    1,473

    Re: Need help with smells in the lab

    I do all of the above including things like sealing all labels in tape since spills can saturate labels. I have had to even dip bottles in alcohol to clean up certain messes.

    I also clean...
  66. Thread: Cardamom linear?

    by RSG
    Replies
    38
    Views
    6,382

    Re: Cardamom linear?

    Sorry, Thea, I think there is a miss communication somewhere. I meant to say that bell pepper and cardamom smell similar in so far as they both share the same smell of the maceal/bark carbaldehyde....
  67. Thread: Cardamom linear?

    by RSG
    Replies
    38
    Views
    6,382

    Re: Cardamom linear?

    Thanks so much Paul for posting the information. Never occured to me to look at the oleoresin. BTW though your last picture is broken.
  68. Replies
    12
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    1,534

    Re: DIY Newbie (Sort of) Setting Up and Lost

    Are these already ordered things or things you are planning to buy?
  69. Thread: Cardamom linear?

    by RSG
    Replies
    38
    Views
    6,382

    Re: Cardamom linear?

    Thank you, Thea, for posting that. I will have to make it and chase down the book. I always do a lot of research and am disgruntled that there does not seem to be a cardamom absolute gcms. I don't...
  70. Thread: Cardamom linear?

    by RSG
    Replies
    38
    Views
    6,382

    Re: Cardamom linear?

    Maceal smells like when you cut an entire bell pepper in half and it sprays. It smells like when you make Morrocan food and put bell pepper and cardamon in the same pot. And it's super strong and...
  71. Thread: Cardamom linear?

    by RSG
    Replies
    38
    Views
    6,382

    Re: Cardamom linear?

    Today my long-awaited order is here.

    Prismantol is not quite right but it is a later building block. Terpinyl acetate is not quite right either. It's the floral fresh part of cardamom but not the...
  72. Replies
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    685

    Re: Cyclomethylene Citronellol ?

    I regard it as an important building block. It's in the sds for many fragrance oils. It can go in anything green, fruity, or with those notes like magnolia and tuberose.
  73. Re: What Determines High & Low Impact for Aroma Chemicals

    It's really a combination of factors. For example if you compare maceal and galaxolide. Both are base notes that last 400 hr. approx. But galaxolide is used neat and maceal is used 1% or even less....
  74. Replies
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    Re: Narcissus Accord Formula

    I was working on this last year and could not get happy with it. I can't wait to try this out. Thanks so much!!
  75. Replies
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    1,397

    Re: searching synthetics - searching equivalents

    If you want juniper I'd honestly buy the Juniper CO2. It's very nice and better than the EO and also better than replacers I have smelled.
  76. Thread: Bleach note

    by RSG
    Replies
    24
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    1,531

    Re: Bleach note

    I also second the ambrinol but dilute it to at least 1%
  77. Thread: Bleach note

    by RSG
    Replies
    24
    Views
    1,531

    Re: Bleach note

    Bleach is in the same family of smells as semen, Lindon, aldehyes, metallic and salty.

    Maybe you wont use ambroxan in a photoreal bleach but in a bleach perfume certainly. Some other ideas are...
  78. Replies
    4
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    682

    Re: Top mid and base percentages

    It's one of those things that's a good troubleshooting rule of thumb. Especially for a fine fragrance that you want to be fairly long-lasting and have changing notes over time.

    But like all rules...
  79. Thread: Cardamom linear?

    by RSG
    Replies
    38
    Views
    6,382

    Cardamom linear?

    I'm working on making a strange seaside perfume that contrasts salty smells and cardamon. The only problem I'm having is coming up with more ideas to keep the idea of cardamon stable through time. I...
  80. Replies
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    1,127

    Re: Geranyl Isovalerate

    I read some SDS today and they say not to keep it in cold/fridge only cool areas. And a more telling tip says to store under inert gas. So the real problem for longevity is the oxidation from the air...
  81. Replies
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    2,452

    Re: Improving top notes

    Looks like your at about 21% linalool type materials. Sure there are exceptions in all directions but your perceived harshness maybe that. I usually do 1-9% in a 100part formula. Yours only has 28...
  82. Re: Converting substantivity hours from blotter to skin

    Best work practice is to have your scent you're testing on strips and using your substantivity numbers to predict when you will smell certain molecules on the strip. Train your nose to recognize...
  83. Re: Converting substantivity hours from blotter to skin

    Here's my rough chart. Heres' the disclaimer though. Sure musks can last on your skin a couple of days and somethings like birch tar even 3 days. But it does depend on the skin, the warmth, diluents...
  84. Replies
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    2,452

    Re: Improving top notes

    My main suggestion would be to learn to dilute.

    In the same vein as cilantro oil I suggest lovage and cardamom. But please use them diluted to at least 10% if not 1% depending on your scale of...
  85. Re: Nooby: Greenish Home-Frag/Roomspray attempt with limited ACs

    Sounds like you need to look at muguet or lily of the valley materials. Many of them have a watery green soft character. Especially if you are making accords with limited amounts 3-5 of materials....
  86. Replies
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    Re: "Mulacro" Essential Oil - Arcadi Boix Camps

    I have some nice Buddhawood and 2 different samples of it. They are quiet and if I had to come up with a description I would say it's a cross between elemol and Amyris oil. Woody chemically...
  87. Replies
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    Re: Good perfume formulas for beginners

    My best beginner mixing advice is similar to the journey others have been on. I started with essential oils, then naturals, then fragrance oils. It taught me a lot and convinced me that I wanted to...
  88. Replies
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    Re: Storage Lengths - Assistance pls

    Storage is different for many materials. Some citrus is benefited by cold and others separate. I have some stuff that says fridge only but I use it heavily enough that I just leave it out. I have...
  89. Re: Discussing the mechanics behind crafting a formula

    I have switched to using pippette tips as permanent holders for my pippettes glass or plastic. I've really enjoyed it!
  90. Re: Discussing the mechanics behind crafting a formula

    The way perfume formulas perform has much to do with material choice. You can make a muguet that is close to the skin. You can also make one that booms out and fills rooms. They will have quite a...
  91. Thread: Violet flower

    by RSG
    Replies
    16
    Views
    1,773

    Re: Violet flower

    It's ok to get your violet composition to the place you want it with some salicylates in it. Then once it's as close as you can get it then buy the irone's and add them in instead of some of the...
  92. Replies
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    1,349

    Re: Do anyone knows about mechanism of accord(s)?

    Thank you Sparla for such an excellent post.

    Another explanation I've read is the idea that a rose is a rose even if it's 1000 chemicals or 100. Or red or yellow. The brain works the way it does...
  93. Replies
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    Re: Sour Balsamic Vinegar Note?

    ethyl butyrate is a good top note. And I may be the odd man out on vinegar. I love balsamic vinegar so much I would wear it, drink, you name it lol Don't get me started on the glaze!!
  94. Replies
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    1,941

    Re: Sour Balsamic Vinegar Note?

    Just need more wine appropriate top notes. Ethyl acetate maybe, cognac oil etc.
  95. Thread: Naming my notes

    by RSG
    Replies
    5
    Views
    689

    Re: Naming my notes

    It's creative fiction. Rose can be listed as raspberry and lipstick as well. It's all about what you want people to think of when they are smelling it.
  96. Replies
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    Re: Chemical Analysis of Santal 33?

    I'm going to be picking that carrot up because I've never had any. Every time I've read carrot I read a tip that said to just replace it with irival. I was assured by a perfumer that in many modern...
  97. Thread: 4 Methy Guaiacol ?

    by RSG
    Replies
    7
    Views
    745

    Re: 4 Methy Guaiacol ?

    This stuff is hideously strong. .01% is about the usuage level for it. To me it smells precisley like a brown sugar spiral sliced ham with cloves stuck into it. So far I've only used it a couple of...
  98. Replies
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    2,549

    Re: Voting for Member Permanent Removal

    Yes.
  99. Replies
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    1,365

    Re: GC/MS and GC-FID interpretation method?

    The stuff I am interpreting is multi-column and type. It's a GC-FID cross-referenced with a GC-FTIR-MS and also with MCT.

    But being a scientific preprint they only show the top 70 occurring...
  100. Thread: Loss of smell

    by RSG
    Replies
    24
    Views
    1,578

    Re: Loss of smell

    Also try big bowls of hot soup. I swear by Pho for ANY malady!

    Let us know how it goes!!
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000