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    Re: Extend Longevity of EO Grapefruit and Mint?

    A perfect match to extend both is thiomenthone aka buchu marcaptan.
    Similarly, Palo Santo oil has both mint and grapefruit to it but it is not as easy to blend.

    Otherwise just as Dmitriy wrote,
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    Ethyl butyrate. But it's also quite cheap. Also, you have Floralozone and Scentenal; both worth having and not really alike but for the purpose of exploring aquatic notes one would suffice. I'd also...
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    With your current project in mind I'd add:

    Amyl cinnamic aldehyde
    Hexyl cinnamic aldehyde
    PADMA
    cis - 3 - Hexenol
    cis - 3 - Hexenyl salicylate
    Bornyl acetate
    Geraniol and/or Rhodinol...
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    They are nothing alike. Nerolione is a quite strong neroli/orange blossom material. Nerolidol is more tea-like and mild. Nerolidol is a must have. Nerolione not necessarily.
  5. Re: Single Note Pad question -- create new threads for individual musks or roll into existing 1 thre

    I'd add it to the musk thread and PM Asha to include your description in the opening post. Or the other way around.
  6. Thread: Making Fougere

    by xii
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    Re: Making Fougere

    Yeah, Cultural Revolution!
    Some people by their very existence self promote. They transgress by being competent capable and interesting.
    Others are dull no matter how loud they shout.

    What...
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    By the way. One of my current projects is earthy-mineral, as if mixed with volcanic ash, eucalyptus. Current iteration includes the following materials:

    Eucalyptus globulis EO
    Habanolide...
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    I'd take habanolide then.
    Lyral is fine. These with Hedione and benzyl salicylate give more than enough room for experiment. Be prepared to fail often though.
    Also, some Jasmin can't hurt....
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    If I were you I would stick to eucalyptus, grapefruit ylang and try to subtly compliment it to something lasting.
    If I still needed to use rather few rather cheap additional materials I'd stick to:...
  10. Re: Blast from the Past: REALLY recommended especially if fairly new to perfuming but even if not!

    My thoughts wandered along the lines: black holes devour light and matter into oblivion while making quite a splash. Otherwise they're so dense light bends around them so one sees through them as if...
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    Have a look at pink grapefruit accord posted by perfectscent. Lilial, ionones, Helional and musks in this accord together with decanal will hold an illusion of grapefruit for quite a while....
  12. Re: Blast from the Past: REALLY recommended especially if fairly new to perfuming but even if not!

    Like black holes are drawn to visible matter.
  13. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    This thread is annoyingly catchy. I'm afraid I have no ready insights and having spent much too much time thinking I doubt I'll have any.
    Nonetheless, I went through my perfume collection and...
  14. Thread: Loss of smell

    by xii
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    Re: Loss of smell

    Four months here. In fact today is the second day I can smell anything having had lost it for a week.
    ENT is a good idea. The fact nose is fully free to breathe doesn't mean sinuses are open.
  15. Thread: Ink and Hairspray

    by xii
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    Re: Ink and Hairspray

    Pavomi, Pears, thanks again! I have Apo Patchone and both 2-phenoxyethanol and phenyl propyl alcohol. Will try them all soon.
  16. Re: Looking for materials like Methyl Pamplemousse with longevity

    And Paradisamide.
    Also, you could blend a grapefruit accord with limonene being replaced by geraniol. Worked for me once.
  17. Thread: Ink and Hairspray

    by xii
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    Re: Ink and Hairspray

    Thanks, Paul! I might use you again indeed but first I'll walk to the chemistry department.
    I think I'm sort of aware how phenol smells like if for no other reason than study of Agaricus...
  18. Thread: Ink and Hairspray

    by xii
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    Re: Ink and Hairspray

    Thank you very much!
  19. Thread: Ink and Hairspray

    by xii
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    Ink and Hairspray

    To my nose a simple patchouly, alpha - Irone combination smells like the ink I used to write with as a kid. Nonetheless, I suppose knowledgeable people like RSQ could share some expertise.

    Second...
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    Re: Help on a strawberry accord

    I'm not sure but he might have meant raspberry accord. In which case I'd still try to use very little raspberry ketone.
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    Re: Newcomer, dreaming of new fragrances

    Ah, OK. I had an impression Palo Santo oil was rather random in this otherwise quite standard formula. This material requires extra attention. It clashes massively with coumarins, aromatic aldehydes...
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    Re: Newcomer, dreaming of new fragrances

    mattmeleg, what's the source of this formula?
    Have you blended it?
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    Re: Newcomer, dreaming of new fragrances

    If you want to stick to natural materials then frankincense is worth trying in large amounts. Patchouly and moss as well and, if you can get a hold of it, vetiveryl acetate natural isolate. For the...
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    Brigitte Bräutigam: Calimbao - Chypre-Fruity

    Let's start with Brigitte's original all natural formula.

    Calimbao:



    Bergamot
    230
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    Re: how to make notes disappear faster?

    I don't think I understand the subject of the thread. Do you want to make top note of your old perfume sample disappear sooner? If you are really serious about it you could try to run it once through...
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    Re: What vital materials am I missing?

    I'll try to list some materials I frequently use and didn't find on your list. Whether they're vital, I can't tell.

    Rose related: citronellol, geraniol, phenyl ethyl alcohol, damascones. I still...
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    Re: What vital materials am I missing?

    Rosy stuff is missing.
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    Re: Newcomer, dreaming of new fragrances

    I made a light aromatic Palo Santo cologne some two years ago. I can paste the entire formula if you want but I'm not sure it's any good. Instead let me list the key ingredients with approximate...
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    Re: Possible Grojsman substitutes?

    I wouldn't be so hasty.
    Modern western perfumery, through influence of such giants as Roudnitska, became cerebral rather than anything else. This trend has been running (for some chronology:...
  30. Re: sincere apologies from Matt :-( I read/write too fast... not careful enough!

    BN is not only DIY.

    Note Pad: Single Note Exploration is a very informative subforum with contributions from very capable people, like asha, who made a lot of effort to keep this place orderly.
    ...
  31. Re: Maybe useful: A lot of natural EO GC's, chosen from naturals that Ellena mentions most using

    Nice.
    Coriander fruit is simply a correct (botanically) term for what people call coriander seed.
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    Re: Long Lasting Linalool Types

    Florosa/Florol
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    Re: Possible Grossjman substitutes?

    mattmeleg.



    pkiler suggested you were less assumptive and yet you somehow developed the idea he didn't like you.
    I find responding to your posts unpleasant too. One of the reasons, they're...
  34. Re: How and why is the Grojsman accord used in Tresor?

    Some information can be found in the Hug me accord thread everything else worthwhile we'll soon be presented on your YouTube channel. Can't wait.
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    Re: Possible Grossjman substitutes?

    A fine comment, Bill Roberts. In a nutshell:

    Combining odour descriptors has nothing to do with building any accord. Quote contrary, as the matter of fact.

    To my nose blending Hedione with Iso...
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    Re: Brigitte Bräutigam: Vahide - Floral-Green

    Aw, Maienfels, was there two years ago.

    I don't mind using strong even overpowering materials. In Vahide formula it seems to reduce other components to green mess.
    By the way, the (synthetic)...
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    Brigitte Bräutigam: Vahide - Floral-Green

    The original all natural formula:

    Vahide:



    Bergamot
    225
  38. Re: Brigitte Bräutigam: Niagara - Fougère-Citrus

    It's probably a bit confusing. I blended the original formula and then used it at 38% in the second.
    I'll post a nearly synth version of one of the Brigitte Bräutigam's formulas (Calimbao) once I...
  39. Re: Brigitte Bräutigam: Niagara - Fougère-Citrus

    How is it? Well, the original formula is pretty good actually. It is rough and doesn't last but the ingredients harmonise well and the structure is solid.
  40. Brigitte Bräutigam: Niagara - Fougère-Citrus

    In the post about study suggestions Ivor Joedy mentioned the book


    I thought I would take some of these formulas and corrupt them with synthetic ingredients. No particular purpose.

    Let's...
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    Re: I don't like the term "blender".

    The images are a bit of a fiasco...
    I'll try with words.

    Let's say I want to blend a fig accord. γ-Decalactone some Stemone and perhaps trace of δ-damascone does a fair impression of a fig;...
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    Re: I don't like the term "blender".

    The vague notion of a blender I tend to understand like this:

    Component A:

    104381

    Component B:

    104382
  43. Re: Fruity Herbacious Gardenia fragrance initial structure

    Some of the MA will bind to aldehydes forming Schiff's bases.

    The maté extract I have though tenacious would be easily overwhelmed by coumarin or vanillin. It might work just fine with sandalwood...
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    Re: Cherry Accord - found it!

    mattmeleg. The very moment perfecscent posted Cerezoate in your other thread about the cherry accord I looked it up on Bedoukian site and found the accord for which you started yet another thread. As...
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    Re: Cherry Accord - found it!

    perfectscent found it for you.
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    Re: Super smelly materials storage . . ?

    I can add that parafilm doesn't work. What I eventually did was diluting the materials to 1% and sinking the smelly bottles with undiluted stock in a larger container filled with liquid paraffin/wax....
  47. Thread: Pear Heart Notes?

    by xii
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    Re: Pear Heart Notes?

    Geranyl acetate.

    Have you tried Helvetolide yet?
    I'd also experiment with farnesol and/or ambrette seed oil.
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    Re: Formula for Criticism

    If I were you I'd try to blend around rhubarb and vetiver first:

    Styrallyl acetate
    Floropal
    Vetiveryl acetate
    Vetiver Haiti EO
    Vetival
    Evernyl
    Rhubofix.
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    Re: Universal backbone accord from Matt

    Picking up the analogy, I don't seem to like milk. There is way too much milk all over the place. It literally oozes into threads about whiskey and absinth.
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    Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    When bruised lilac flowers cease to smell nice. They seem to be made very cheap; grassy smelling and quickly oxidising liquid kept in waxy balloons forming petals whose outer layer produces tiny...
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    Re: Camphor note in Creed viking

    I don't know long lasting lavender materials. Lavender absolute is worth trying though. You might need some careful blending. Patchouly and musk (Habanolide perhaps) could give good base to an...
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    Re: galbanum – enhancing its bite and bitterness

    Must de Cartier does it with bergamot, vanilla/amber an civet among others.
    And I like the idea of green urban scent very much.
  53. Replies
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    Re: Camphor note in Creed viking

    Some options:

    1. black pepper & frankincense (spicy)
    2. lavender & patchouly (earthy)
    3. rosemary & cistus (agrestic)

    Coniferan, Prismantol, sandalwood (Australian) and derivatives of eugenol...
  54. Re: Anyone have personal experience with these materials?

    Unlike Dmitriy I like para-Methoxycinnnamaldehyde most from the list. I used it for instance in a damson jam accord. On its own it smells somewhat cooked like a cherry pie to me. Also, even tiny...
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    Re: galbanum – enhancing its bite and bitterness

    Following advice of filousoph in one of my projects I'm testing Spirogalbanone and Trifernal for sharp green notes in a blend already containing bornyl acetate, PADMA, Reseda Body, Triplal, Galbex...
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    Re: galbanum – enhancing its bite and bitterness

    Evernyl, galbanum pyrazine, Corps Racine, violet leaf absolute, mint, ivy base, tuberose EO, ginger, thyme, narcissus base.
  57. Re: Is their a better way to accord formulating than the Jean Carles Method beyond using 2 materials

    There is this idea that by mixing several ingredients in correct proportions the individual ingredients become hard to discern and the blend itself attains novel quality. One example of it is the...
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    Re: Musk/Amber diffusive-ness suggestion Please.

    mattmeleg, I don't think there is a need for a debate here. I'd certainly add blue to my palette when trying to render human skin but try to persuade 6 years old that skin isn't really pink.
    ...
  59. Replies
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    Re: Musk/Amber diffusive-ness suggestion Please.

    Adding to the list: pink pepper, Angelica (traces), rose, orris/carrot seed, Mayol.

    (Definitely aldehydes are worth trying.)
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    Re: Okoumal and Adoxal EU/UK

    Thank you very much, pavomi!
    I suppose I won't be able to create an Okoumal replacement before I have actually smelled it. Nonetheless, I can at least test the ingredients you mentioned in formulas...
  61. Re: Is their a better way to accord formulating than the Jean Carles Method beyond using 2 materials

    This way would be daft, wouldn't it?

    I suppose all perfumers develop routines. I thought it wouldn't harm to mention mine.
    In a nutshell, once I blend something meaningful I give it a name bottle...
  62. Re: French + Italian Vocabulary for Scent Description

    Ditto.

    Perhaps éclat which has something to do with splendour thus doesn't faithfully translate to radiance. Humiecki & Graef played with the word éclat in their "Blask" which is an equally...
  63. Re: Is their a better way to accord formulating than the Jean Carles Method beyond using 2 materials

    If you are somewhat conscientious there is no worse blending routine than JC method.

    "Is there an easier way of working out ratios between oils when using the Jean Carles Method?"

    Apart from...
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    Re: Lilac solvent extraction

    I've attempted a solvent extraction with pentane. A fiasco. The waxy substance comes from petals so separating the green parts won't help. More importantly, the extract turned out to be of a very...
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    Re: anosmia is my nightmare

    I wouldn't bother about Aldron. Just be very careful with it. Clothes you accidentally spill some of Aldron upon will keep smelling of sweat and urine to some people even after several washings.
  66. Re: Whats the oddest, rarest natural material you used in a perfumes?

    I've extracted Hōjicha, Japanese roasted tea, with dimethyl ether. This should be my oddest natural.
    Aw, and I distilled Vietnamese coriander whose oil is composed mainly of two C12 aldehydes.
  67. Re: which labels and odors of functional products studied?

    I like Rituals. They offer perfumes which I consider mediocre, therefore some of their shower and wellness products are irresistible to me. Unfortunately, they replace their product lines frequently.
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    Re: advice on my next order

    I don't really know what to do with these two cedar materials. They smell fine and I did try to used them but so far always ended up with using cedar oil. I like Z11 and Tobacarol but again they...
  69. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    I think I have been misunderstood. I wrote:



    in hope a short not really polemic statement will be less likely to get twisted into something I didn't claim. Apparently I was wrong. So let me...
  70. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    I definitely agree PW perfumery school seems inferior to, say, ISIPCA. I also agree that especially we, DIY-ers, should be encouraged to look up to excellence without compromise. But there aren't...
  71. Thread: Acrylate

    by xii
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    Re: Acrylate

    I considered propionates after the same line of thought. Not quite what I hoped but propionates are already playing a big role in my green project. Some propionates seem to be quite spectacular....
  72. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    In defence of PW training, it might connect better with local perfumery tradition, more spiritual, less exact and predating the western one by millenia.
  73. Replies
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    Re: Powder as an effect

    First of all odour descriptors aren't universal; what I'd call fruity could be floral for someone from different spot on Earth. gandhajala brilliantly tossed here on Basenotes a term frames of...
  74. Thread: Acrylate

    by xii
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    790

    Re: Acrylate

    Thank you very much!

    Will do some testing. Great advice!
  75. Thread: Acrylate

    by xii
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    790

    Acrylate

    I'm looking for a material (AC or composition) with sharp odour of acrylic paint. I detected it in a very unusual green accord so I tried to obtain the effect mixing Stemone with other things. In...
  76. Thread: Water Accord

    by xii
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    Re: Water Accord

    Have you tried adding Helional?
  77. Re: Difference between Galbascone, Dynascone, Neobutenone, etc.

    The alpha version, 1-(5,5-dimethyl-1-cyclohex-2-enyl)pent-4-en-1-one, seems to be the greenest and least pineapple of the bunch.
    Galbex 183 is more grapefruit and pine needles than pineapple which...
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    Re: Perfumers education

    Why not ISIPCA with degree?
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    Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    The patchouly absolute from Liaison Carbone is molecularly distilled with IPM as codistillate. So it shares some features with other molecular distillates; it is colourless with clean yet deep...
  80. Re: DIY help: Iso-E Super - Going to be used for layering

    Or screws them up.
  81. Replies
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Heat

    Emphasis on gentle. Perhaps it is also worth adding that heat will also promote irreversible reactions. If too many of these occur we no longer call it ageing but heat treatment rather.

    As for...
  82. Re: Ajax and Comet Cleanser - recreating it in a perfume?

    So I experimented a bit with a formula centered around bornyl acetate and Vertenex. Some material suggestions:

    Eucalyptus oil, even in large amounts, works great to modify and lift the top. So...
  83. Replies
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    Re: favourite top note accord?

    Well, it's safe to assume every accord has a top note. The phrase top note accord is simply meaningless. jfrater tried to make sense out of it by analogy with top note material. Which is hard to...
  84. Re: Ajax and Comet Cleanser - recreating it in a perfume?

    I haven't managed to get a hold of Ajax Comet cleanser but it seems you could try bornyl acetate Vertenex (woody acetate) combo.
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    Re: how to make vanilla absolute colourless

    Decolorisation with charcoal should work immediately so if you didn't observe a change don't waste more. Also, in essential oils colour comes from volatile compounds just as odour does. I wouldn't...
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    Re: How can i make perfumers alcohol??

    It's been noticed but there are no legal tools to fight it.

    Yes.

    If you don't mention the original brand while selling it it will be legal in most places and, in my opinion, not unethical.

    ...
  87. Replies
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    Re: how to make vanilla absolute colourless

    James Peterson's idea might work. In fact I partially decolorise my own vanilla extract in a similar manner: obtaining a sort of vanilla consommé using purely mechanical methods.

    Activated...
  88. Replies
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    Re: How can i make perfumers alcohol??

    There is no point in denaturing methanol, it's very toxic on its own.
    Also the fact you haven't experienced methanol's toxicity isn't particularly enlightening. There are factors that can mitigate...
  89. Re: Higher and lower quality Ionones (powdery orris materials)

    No wonder. The odour of orris butter is primarily due to the presence of irones not ionones.
    α-Irone is a pretty damn good substitute. Or better yet some synthetic orris butter like Charabot's...
  90. Thread: Distiller

    by xii
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    Re: Distiller

    You need no distillation equipment to start making your own perfume.
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    Re: A lily scent - NOT lily of the valley?

    I'd start with phenyl ethyl alcohol and eugenol.

    Or better yet just read what renegade suggested some time ago.
  92. Replies
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    Re: Disposable Pipettes

    I'm afraid I use about 10k pipette tips per year; meaning about 3kg of polypropylene which I recycle. I feel quite bad about it but I don't really see a reasonable way to avoid it. I tried glass...
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    Re: mostly anosmic to Vol de Nuit & L'Heure Bleue

    Your nose needs rest.
  94. Replies
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    Re: Best Notes To Combine With Patchouli ?

    It seems you might want to consider tuberose. Otherwise I'd follow renegade's suggestions.
  95. Re: Which aromachemical should I try for a pine or spruce note? How about citrus herbal or rose?

    I didn't express myself particularly well but you got it.

    I'm not obsessed with longevity or power. Some blends work just fine for me at 3% and I rarely approach 20%.
  96. Re: Structural Chemistry of Diffusion & Tenacity Combination?

    You may safely assume odoriferous molecules are at infinite dilution in the air. That is there are no intermolecular interactions between them. So the diffusion should be fairly well modelled by a...
  97. Re: Structural Chemistry of Diffusion & Tenacity Combination?

    That's an interesting bit. I thought the double bonds, which increase molecule's freedom, matter in solutions. Similarly, aromatic rings suggest more compact conformation and might therefore affect...
  98. Re: Structural Chemistry of Diffusion & Tenacity Combination?

    I don't think any research linking molecular structure with diffusiveness of volatile compounds in the air has ever been done.

    High tenacity doesn't necessarily contradict high diffusiveness. Some...
  99. Re: Which aromachemical should I try for a pine or spruce note? How about citrus herbal or rose?

    You may want to dilute strong materials solids thick liquids etc. There are not so many strong naturals though.

    To get rough ideas i mostly use ingredients diluted to 5% in ethanol. One of the...
  100. Re: Essential oils categories, aroma families and attributes.

    Just one thing. Aromaticity is nothing we can smell. So aliphatic is a cryptic descriptor.

    I find it quite instructive to run around with blotters and pester people for odour evaluation. For...
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