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  1. Re: New brand Brooklyn Perfume Company with four fragrances

    John Steele sells through Perfumers' Apprentice.
  2. Re: Mignonette (Reseda odorata) Reseda absolute

    There's a whole section about reseda (mignonette) in my 1925 edition of Poucher. History: Mignonette, is a native of Egypt and the shores of the Mediterranean. The plant was known to Pliny, and in...
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    Re: What Do You Make of This Ethics Convo?

    I'm desperate to find an ethical source for civet. I was talking with one guy who said that his civet cats had a large area to roam and that they rubbed the paste off on poles set around. But, then I...
  4. Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Thank you, Devil's son-in-law. I just realized I don't have any alpha pinene--some is on its way. Nagarmotha could replace the little bit of oud I slipped in.
  5. Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Can't wait for my Magnolys to arrive so I can give it a whirl. Meanwhile I'm going to try some of your very generous suggestions. I notice, xii, that you include indole. What I'm finding hardest to...
  6. Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Thank you everyone for all these posts. I'm going to get to work in the lab.
  7. Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    I've been working on a magnolia perfume and am getting nowhere. I have the synthetics I know of--magnol, magnolan, and magnosyl--and plenty of magnolia absolute, but I'm not getting anywhere. I want...
  8. Re: New brand Brooklyn Perfume Company with four fragrances

    I just rediscovered this thread and am delighted there are so many positive comments.
    I have had a realization. When I was first sampling sandalwoods for my perfume, I wanted genuine Mysore and...
  9. Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Thank you, Paul, for the hexenol explanation. My spelling is terrible and most of these chemical names are not found on the spell checker.
  10. Re: which of us has economic income with perfumes and cosmetics?

    As the president, perfumer, and test tube washer for Brooklyn Perfume Company, I do sell my products. I'm not getting rich by any means and have spent a fortune (not even a small fortune) getting set...
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    Re: What is Z11?

    According to Arcadi Boix Camps: "Z-11 is a crude mixture of isomers and the real product [amber ketal]." Earlier in the paragraph: "Today, amber ketal is one of the most important chemicals enabling...
  12. Re: I'm looking for materials to combine with Castoreum for a sex accord, any Ideas?

    Have you tried tobacco?
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    Re: Muguet Accords

    What do our dear readers think of Majantol?
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    Re: Is amber ambergris?

    I have spent a small fortune and over 10 years tincturing ambergris. It seems to me there are 3 forms of amber:
    Distilled fossilized jewelry amber: bitter and phenolic, but delicious when sweetened...
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    Re: Ambergris accord

    Try one part ambergris to nine parts Grisalva. I found that the whole thing became ambergris; it didn't seem like ambergris that had been diluted.
  16. Thread: Opium

    by James Peterson
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    Re: Opium

    If you have a cooperative doctor, ask herm to prescribe tincture of opium (laudanum). It's used for diarrhea. Otherwise, hop on a plane to Kathmandu and buy it in the streets.
  17. Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Here's what I've used so far: Oud, 6-cis hexanol, Suederal, Hinoki, Cassie absolute, C-14, Nectaryl, Apritone, Beeswax absolute, castoreum, civet, linalool.
    Thank you, Paul and fragrantregard.
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    Re: Dew/water/ozone ingredient

    Have you tried scentenal?
  19. Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Thank you, fragrantregard. Yes, I snuck a little oud into the formula and it does work wonders. I'll experiment with your and Paul's suggestions. I do lack a few ingredients you mention (beta...
  20. Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Ignore my last message. I see you add cis-hexanol. What is the difference between cis-hexanol and hexanol?
  21. Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    That surprises me because I don't see anything that would give the flower that peculiar leather quality. I've been using suederal and castoreum which work fairly well.
  22. Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    I've never knowingly smelled the actual flower--just the absolute which I find divine.
  23. Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    I'm working on an Osmanrthus accord and I'm having trouble getting an essential ingredient (i.e. hexanol) to retain its aroma. It forms the heart of my complex, but, alas, doesn't last long.
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    Re: Has this Ambergris gone bad?

    I've had a very peculiar experience with ambergris. My aged tinctures smell like isopropanol (see Ambergris in Wikipedia and they talk about this same phenomenon). I began to wonder if I was smelling...
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    Re: Pipette setup

    Cheap as I am, I reuse plastic pipettes. I have a series of four tall bottles. I start out with two rinses of isopropanol and then switch to two rinses with ethanol. And then a final sitting in a...
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    Re: What can be used with saffron

    In cooking, saffron is often associated with fennel and anise notes. It's also associated with garlic, but I don't think that would work out.
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    Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Orris, oud, sandalwood, natural musk, civet, ambergris (these three in combination make what was once called "animallis." I made a tiny bit as an experiment. Oh, what they must have smelled like back...
  28. Re: Compounds for a Nacotic white flower accord

    Their jasmine enfleurage has this same characteristic. I don't think it's damascone since there seems to be no fruitiness.
  29. Thread: Opium

    by James Peterson
    Replies
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    7,526

    Re: Opium

    What about Balsam Siam?
  30. Re: Advice on Orange Blossom fragrance formula

    Thanks, Paul. That makes sense. It never transports me the way some naturals (e.g. jasmine) do.
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    Re: Sandalwood Perfume

    Has anyone tried Steele's "East Indian Heartwood?" It is the closest I've smelled to the real thing. Unfortunately, it's $25/ml. Santalol, while lovely, doesn't get me into the "zone."
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    Re: Sandalwood Perfume

    Hi Bill. Yes, it's very discouraging. I have 25 different examples and they are all, except one, something else.
  33. Re: Compounds for a Nacotic white flower accord

    I recommend the beautiful tuberose enfleurage from Enfleurage in New York. It has a thick jammyness I can't get enough of. It's actually less expensive than their absolute which is not to say it is...
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    Re: Piss in drydown

    Cassis, of course, is evocative of cat piss (or sauvignon blanc). I'd try to couple it with a little civet and maybe some para-cresol phenylacetate which smells a little like horse piss. Duplicating...
  35. Thread: Opium

    by James Peterson
    Replies
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    7,526

    Re: Opium

    The smell of raw opium--if you break open a piece and just stick your nose in it--is very vegetative, a bit like damp leaves. Once turned to smoke, it's another thing entirely. The closest thing I...
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    Re: Sandalwood Perfume

    I notice this thread from long ago. I've given up trying to duplicate sandalwood and instead support it as best I can to bring it into relief. As concerns my Sandalwood collection, I now think I know...
  37. Re: Advice on Orange Blossom fragrance formula

    I wonder if when is all said and done, if you're going to add some orange blossom absolute. I revel in Poucher (I have the 1925 edition) who says that any reproduction should contain at least 10% of...
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    Re: Male Underarm Sweat Accord

    Perhaps. The smell of black truffles is the same as some sweat, but not armpit odor.
  39. Replies
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    Re: Male Underarm Sweat Accord

    Costus has something to offer, but it has that old wood thing. Costausol might contribute something.
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    Re: Male Underarm Sweat Accord

    Aldron does have something reminiscent of it. Onion notes are obvious (can't I just use onion absolute or e.o.?) and the metallic notes I'm working on, but the goaty thing is a bit harder.
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    Re: Male Underarm Sweat Accord

    There's something hircine about armpit odor that I don't find in sweat from other parts of the body. My own armpits (at least as perceived by me) are onion-like, goaty (like aged chèvre), metallic...
  42. Re: Article: Non-IFRA-compliant fragrance on the market

    I do have insurance for world sales and no mention is made about compliance with anything.
    In any case, do any perfumers make a version for sale in the United States only? I'd like to make a classic...
  43. Re: New brand Brooklyn Perfume Company with four fragrances

    Have you tried the others? There are two new releases: Ambergris and Green Iris. I think they're my most interesting work yet.
  44. Re: Advice regarding the diluting of civet absolute

    I've worked with both civet tincture and civet absolute. After a year or so, my civet tinctures--diluted to 3%, 5% and 10%--have developed the necessary aroma, which is clean, not funky or fecal. I...
  45. Re: Name the 3 most beautiful material you know

    Old Mysore Sandalwood
    Natural Musk
    Jasmin enfleurage
  46. Re: 2 new fragrances from Brooklyn Perfume Co: Ambergris and Green Iris

    Gulp. I hope you like them.
  47. Re: 2 new fragrances from Brooklyn Perfume Co: Ambergris and Green Iris

    In the interest of full disclosure, I'm the perfumer at Brooklyn Perfume Company. Ambergris is a take on ambergris and doesn't smell only of ambergris (of which it contains a hefty amount), but of...
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    Re: Amber (fossilised)

    I've since made an amber perfume for Brooklyn Perfume Company. It's balanced with an awful lot of the best vanilla--a CO2--that I could find. It also contains a lot of tobacco and castoreum, both...
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    Re: Working with Ambergris and Musk

    Ambergris dissolves in oil in the same way it dissolves in ethanol--just stir a chunk around and let it sit for 24 hours or so and the chunk will dissolve in the oil
    Maturing it is a different...
  50. Thread: Civet

    by James Peterson
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    Re: Civet

    I think one must think of civetone as unrelated to civet. Civetone has a funky, dirty aspect that long-tinctured civet lacks. The same is true for civet absolute. Only the tincture has the necessary...
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    Re: Animalic scents...help, please!!!

    I'd like you to try Brooklyn Perfume Company's musk. In the interest of full disclosure, I started the company several years ago.
    The musk is very animalic, more animalic than any other musk I've...
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    Re: Working with Ambergris and Musk

    I often see demonstrations of laboriously grinding ambergris before tincturing it.
    I just plop a chunk (I once started out with a chunk about the size of an egg) in ethanol (measured in relation to...
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    Re: How to build an orris accord...

    Thank you, Milhaus. I've fooled around with Orris Give and haven't been impressed, but if it lasts so long, perhaps I can use it. Had thought about rose and will now definitely try it. Anisic...
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    Re: How to build an orris accord...

    One more thing. The best Alpha Irone I've found comes from Pell Wall.
  55. Replies
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    Re: How to build an orris accord...

    I know this is an old thread, but Yandynestor's dilemma is one I understand since I've been working on Iris for probably a year now.
    I have come up with an accord I'm very fond of (Irival, Orivone,...
  56. Re: how to make vanilla absolute colourless

    I've been fooling around with centrifuging stuff such as dark seaweed absolute; don't know if this would work with vanilla, I suspect not, but it might be worth testing,.
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    Those do sound like good prices, if you can call it that.
  58. Replies
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    Unfortunately, I've never done business with this company. Do they insist on large quantities? The stuff, as I'm sure you know, is super expensive. I think I paid $100 for two ml. But the stuff is...
  59. Re: Ambergris melange vs. True Ambergris tincture

    I hate to say it, but I smell no comparison. Apples and oranges. Perhaps the melange is supposed to be someone's fantasy of what ambergris smells like rather than what it actually does smell like. I...
  60. Re: What is the impact of new regulations on non-European houses?

    I'd be willing to put on a disclaimer, I just don't want to get sued for selling someone a perfume with too much oak moss in it.
  61. Replies
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    Re: Ignoring IFRA regulations.

    I'm a bit desperate about all these restrictions. I recently constructed a floral perfume, much like a chypre with a lot of oak moss. In fact, the oak moss comes out to 1%, not .1%, of the final...
  62. Re: Is this what real deer musk smells like?

    I'm old enough that I remember my mother's perfumes from the 40s and 50s. When she went out to a party, she would put on her perfume--Vol de Nuit was one--and the house would fill with its...
  63. Re: Have you ever had a traumatic experience with certain material? * ULTRAZUR*

    I tried ultrazure in my ambergris perfume in the hope that it would make it last longer. It did, but the dry down consisted of ultrazure and nothing else. I can see how it would be useful in certain...
  64. Re: Aroma Chemicals and Essential Oils you DETEST

    I find civet absolute to be ghastly while well-matured civet tincture is glorious. I'm not big on opoponax either, but do use it in blends.
    Maltol I find disgusting and smell it everywhere and in...
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    Re: Any true apricot fragrances?

    Be careful when you go to the osmoteque--I made reservations and after going out there (to Versailles), they refused to receive me saying there were no perfumers around who could help me. Just make...
  66. Replies
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    Re: What smells like sea salt, beach?

    This may sound really peculiar, but has anyone tried tincturing a fish? Or an oyster?
    It occurs to me that the aroma in fresh wild salmon might be what some of us are looking for. My impression is...
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    Re: Oud lovers who love sandalwood...

    I live in Brooklyn and haver spent years collecting sandalwood from all over the world, searching for the best.
    One afternoon I went into one of those cheap incense stores where they make facsimiles...
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    Re: Musk Deer Pod

    About seven years ago, I bought some beautiful concentrated musk pastes from Agarscents. I made 10% tinctures of each. A trace--a slight rub of the bottom of the glass cap that doesn't even touch the...
  69. Re: Real Ambergris - how powerful is the smell meant to be?

    It's strange to me that no one mentions whether to mature tinctures of ambergris in the light or in the dark. My first experiments have been in the light--it makes sense intuitively that the...
  70. Re: Real Ambergris - how powerful is the smell meant to be?

    True, I find the smell rather faint once it's been on the skin a few minutes. It smells like isopropanol to me, but when combined with perfumes, that smell goes away and the perfume itself seems to...
  71. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    I've read that civet was once added to the alcohol.
  72. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    In my reading, I've seen the formulas using 1% of 3% tincture which is much smaller than the amounts discussed here.
  73. Replies
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    Re: ambergris tincture

    If anyone wants to see tincture of ambergris being made, check out the blog on brooklynperfume.com. It needs to age after which--in three to six months--it will develop its strange fragrance and turn...
  74. Replies
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    Re: Making ambergris tincture

    My tincturing continues. I bought a beautiful 50-gram piece and dissolved it in alcohol at 10% (I dilute as needed to 3%). The gentleman who sold me the ambergris had let his tinctures mature in the...
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    Where do you find blue lotus absolute? I purchased mine from Enfleurage in New York and it's glorious if not cheap.
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    So, it seems that I can combine orris butter with ethyl ether to dissolve the mystiric acid? Presumably the mystiric acid will remain in solution. But what happens to the absolute? Does it sink to...
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    Re: The problem with sweetness

    What about balsamic ingredients? I sometimes find that benzoin Siam and benzoin Peru offer a sweet effect. Has anyone used balsamic ingredients to achieve sweetness?
  78. Replies
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    My favorite blue lotus, and my favorite lotus of any kind, is the blue lotus from Enfleurage in New York. The stuff's super dear ($100/2 ml.) but the smell is so transcendent...
    Thank you mattmeleg...
  79. Re: New brand Brooklyn Perfume Company with four fragrances

    No, the edition that we're selling is the 3rd edition. We do, however, have about 20 bottles of the 2nd edition left. I can't say which one is the best, but they both smell very much of oud. The last...
  80. Re: New brand Brooklyn Perfume Company with four fragrances

    The third oud is ready. We'll need a week or two to get the samples on the website so it will be easy to get them then. I'll be selling the perfume at The Twisted Lily in Brooklyn and on my website,...
  81. Re: New brand Brooklyn Perfume Company with four fragrances

    My perfumes are made with pure ethanol (not denatured).
    I am now on the third oud iteration. I often include ouds that are very limited, leaving me to reformulate every time one runs out. The second...
  82. Replies
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    Re: Best Amber Fragrance?

    I hope that people will try Brooklyn Perfume Company's amber. It's not amber like we normally think, but an amber perfume made with actual fossilized amber--the kind that is used for jewelry. The...
  83. Re: Ambroxan, nice. Cetalox, nice. Fixateur, nice. Ambergris Oliffac... wtf?

    I've been experimenting with ambergris for quite some time now and have discovered how different colors of ambergris create different aroma profiles. The "best" grey and white ambergris have an...
  84. Re: Anyone ever used Tobacco Absolute from Perfumer's Apprentice? I have a question.

    I'm having a problem with tobacco absolute. Several years ago I ordered tobacco absolute (I think it was from Hermitage, but I'm not sure). It had the dark roasted and wonderful aroma of French...
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    Re: Preservatives & Benzophenone

    I've been working on a galbanum aroma and have found that after a month or so, the galbanum takes on an unpleasant gasoline smell. I'm now trying to preserve it by adding rosemary oleoresin up to...
  86. Re: Ambrette seed products, price variation

    Dear Damselbibi,
    You're so kind to have sent the list of suppliers. Their high prices reassure me that I'd be getting the real thing. Faulty reasoning I know, but still.
    What's your experience with...
  87. Replies
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    Re: Ambrette seed oil supplier

    I must offer those I've critiqued, an apology. To be honest, I realize that I don't know what ambrette seed is supposed to smell like. I suspect I have as yet to sample a sort of archetype. My...
  88. Replies
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    12,478

    Re: 70% Ethyl Alcohol as a Perfume Base?

    I've been experimenting with using dilutions of alcohol to dissolve absolutes and natural oils. I've discovered that solubility depends on the essential oil or absolute. Some dissolve (about 1 ml....
  89. Replies
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    Re: Most Undervalued Vintage Frags?

    Maybe it's just that I'm getting old, but what are described here as vintage fragrances don't seem that old. I'm looking for a bottle of Vol de Nuit from the 50s or perhaps later as long as it still...
  90. Re: How do you successfully dilute a fragrance?

    I am currently working on a spray perfume--very light but with good projection when first sprayed. I first based my spray on alcohol, but since I want people to be able to spray it directly on their...
  91. Re: what is the minimum percentage of ethyl alcohol in a solution to have fragrance oils dissolve in

    In the course of experimenting with including water in my blends, I found that most natural oils will withstand a mixture containing 75% 190-proof ethanol and 25% water.
  92. Re: IFRA Standards - Discussion thread (Temporary partial version)

    Hi Chris,
    It was great seeing you in L.A. and having the opportunity to smell some of your stuff. I especially liked that rose you do--I forget, but it was something like a dirty rose or a dusty...
  93. Replies
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    Re: Ambergris

    Yes, it's a surprising connection. If you sniff ambergris and then regular isopropanol out of the bottle, you'll see the difference--the ambergris is complex and lovely, even though reminiscent of...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Ambergris

    I've never smelled ambergris in a commercial perfume, including Creed. Perfumes containing ambergris have a distinct isopropanol whiff in the opening which I've never detected. I don't smell the...
  95. Replies
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    Re: making a water perfume?

    I've been trying to make a vetiver spray--a light spray for creating a delicate mist when getting out of the shower for example. I started out using pure ethanol, but when I sprayed it directly in my...
  96. Replies
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    Re: Ambergris oil

    I didn't even grind up the ambergris. Nor did I heat it. Presumably, both of these approaches would hasten its dissolution in the water, but aren't necessary. The stuff matured in about 4 months and...
  97. Replies
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    Re: Ambergris oil

    Yes, I've successfully dissolved ambergris in oil. I just took a little piece and shook it in a test tube with fractionated coconut oil. It dissolved and matured in the same way.
  98. Re: I heard 'real musk' is out of this world... Has anyone smelled it?

    I'll try Puredistance Black. I'm delighted that you've been layering my fragrance. Let me know of any interesting discoveries.
  99. Re: I heard 'real musk' is out of this world... Has anyone smelled it?

    I use my musk in everything. Especially when combined with florals, it provides just the necessary funk. I even get whiffs that remind me of the real thing. I haven't encountered this in any other...
  100. Replies
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    Re: Best Amber Fragrance?

    Dear freewheelingvagabond,
    I would love it if you would try the amber from Brooklyn Perfume Company. It isn't amber in the usual sense but is actually made with distilled fossilized amber, giving it...
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