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  1. Replies
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    Chamomile would help to lend an apple-like note, which I detect in Dorinia SA.

    Pears
  2. Thread: tincture Benzoin

    by Pears
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    Re: tincture Benzoin

    Glad to be of assistance guys. A couple of additional points: I suspect that they would have used stoneware bottles to protect the ingredients from light, which can cause degradation via...
  3. Thread: tincture Benzoin

    by Pears
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    Re: tincture Benzoin

    It took me a while to write out but here are some old recipes for Lait Virginal and Eau d' Ange. I've converted the old French measures into modern equivalents for you. The Lait Virginal recipes...
  4. Thread: tincture Benzoin

    by Pears
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    420

    Re: tincture Benzoin

    Nemenator, you may like to read Carl Deite's instructions regarding the tincturing of benzoin:
    ...
  5. Thread: tincture Benzoin

    by Pears
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    Re: tincture Benzoin

    Lait virginal didn't usually contain rose water, David. It typically contained esprit de vin (grape alcohol), eau de vie (brandy), benzoin, storax, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, musk and ambergris. Eau...
  6. Thread: tincture Benzoin

    by Pears
    Replies
    11
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    420

    Re: tincture Benzoin

    Benzoin isn't usually distilled to produce an EO. What some companies refer to as benzoin EO is actually an extract containing a solvent to make it pourable, such as benzyl benzoate, benzyl alcohol,...
  7. Thread: Nirvanolide

    by Pears
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    Re: Nirvanolide

    It's apparently similar in aroma to Musk Ketone and Muscenone, so you could try those instead. See page 161 below:
    ...
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    Amber Accords: Siam or Sumatra Benzoin?

    Does anyone know which of the two is most typically used for classic amber accords? Thanks.

    Pears
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    Re: Cinnamon (bark) oil repleacer

    Sigma Aldrich sell it for 40 (€56) per kilo, shipped from Germany. However, they only deal with companies, not private individuals.
    ...
  10. Replies
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    Re: Cinnamon (bark) oil repleacer

    If you're in the US then try Crafter's Choice Cinnamon Fragrance Oil. It contains 40-50% methyl cinnamaldehyde and only 1-2% cinnamal (cinnamaldehyde):
    ...
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    Re: Suggested filtering methods

    Have you been reading Poucher, Alysoun? He sometimes used this term, which I believe simply meant to filter the solution until it was bright. To quote from his book:

    "Elemi is useful as a fixative...
  12. Re: Just about everything you wanted to know about CITRUS!

    Misinformation can be dangerous, but almost certainly not in this instance. He probably just misinterpreted one of his references, and needs counseling from someone with experience in the field. If...
  13. Re: Just about everything you wanted to know about CITRUS!

    Dangerous, David? I agree with much of what you said, but there's no need to blow this out of proportion.

    The information about the different varieties is possibly largely correct, as the author...
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    Re: Suggested filtering methods

    It's also confusing when you're talking about freezing a substance that doesn't actually freeze solid at such temperatures, i.e. alcohol. That's why I chose to use the word refrigeration, but alas,...
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    Re: Suggested filtering methods

    As Paul said, the freezer. Unless you wanted to clarify chicken stock, in which case it would be a cycle, from fridge to freezer and back again. Somehow I don't think that your intention is to...
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    Re: Suggested filtering methods

    Jfrater, refrigeration works by lowering the solubility of the compounds in the alcohol. If they are compounds with a low solubility in alcohol, such as lipids, then they will become supersaturated...
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    Cheers Chris. I see what you mean about the price, Vigon are offering it for $1030 a kilo. I think that a combination of Dorinia SA and Rose Givco will work just fine for my needs.
  18. Replies
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    That's good to know, Sultan. Funnily enough, I also got my Dorinia SA and Rose Givco from Chris. I didn't inquire about Wardia though because he hasn't included it in his price list. I would love to...
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    I'm curious to know if the only difference between SA and SA E is the musk components. Has anyone compared the two in aroma?
  20. Replies
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    Sultanpasha, I've read that strawberry glycidate is sometimes used in rose and jasmine compositions.

    Jfrater, I can't detect any Dulcinyl in Dorinia SA, although I have the standard version....
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    Re: Very unreliable Hermitage Oils experience!!

    I have only received one item from Hermitage that didn't smell right, the rest have been top notch. The owner also kindly sent me a couple of oils for free, after he discovered that I had been...
  22. Replies
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    Re: Fruity essential oils?

    Cognac oil has a notably fruity aroma. I find green cognac oil to be more fruity than white cognac oil, possessing notes of grape and apple.
  23. Replies
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    Re: Fruity essential oils?

    Western red cedarwood oil has a strong smell of pineapple, lime or pear drops.
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    Re: Tiziana Terenzi - Laudano Nero and Maremma

    Your supposition is correct, Jaime. Although laudano eventually came to mean the opium extract, it originally referred to labdanum resin. On page 199 of the sixteenth century book, "Libro Della...
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    Re: Realistic Neroli oil replacer?

    Thanks Chris, that's very useful to know. I've sent you a PM.

    Pears
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    Re: Realistic Neroli oil replacer?

    Those were roughly my thoughts also, iselarom. I'd be interested to know if anyone here has tried Neroli Light Oil before.

    Paul, I would if it was for myself but I was inquiring on someone's...
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    Re: Realistic Neroli oil replacer?

    Thanks guys. Have any of you tried what some vendors describe as Neroli Light Oil? Essential Oils Direct descibe it as follows:

    "Obtained from the steam distillation of the flowers of the bitter...
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    Realistic Neroli oil replacer?

    I'd be interested to know if any of you have tried any realistic Neroli oil replacers or accords. Thanks.

    Pears
  29. Re: Solvent extraction for concretes using SC CO2

    Yes, SC CO2 can be used on fresh plant materials. Raw materials often undergo pretreatment processes before CO2 extraction, such as milling and drying, in order to increase extraction efficiency....
  30. Re: How strong is Rose Givco compared to Rose Otto?

    Which of the materials that you have is most close to rose otto? The same goes to Paul and anyone else reading? Obviously nothing will ever compare to the real thing, but it would be nice to know...
  31. Re: How strong is Rose Givco compared to Rose Otto?

    Cheers Paul!
  32. How strong is Rose Givco compared to Rose Otto?

    Can anyone tell me how strong Rose Givco is compared to rose otto? How much should I use if I was trying to replace the rose otto in a formula? I realise that they're not the same in terms of odour...
  33. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    That makes better sense to me, Bill. If you're using it at that concentration, then it suggests that it might not be much stronger than natural ambergris. I would very much like to hear from anyone...
  34. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    Bill, are you sure that you meant ppt? By my calculation, 25 ppt is equivalent to 20 nanograms per litre of 95% ethanol, which seems astronomically small.
  35. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    Does anyone know roughly how strong Fixateur 505 is compared to ambergris, upon dissolution? Thanks.
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    Re: Tincture, how to produce it

    Bullonaio, you may like to read the section on tinctures in 'A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Perfumery' (pages 225-237):
    ...
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    Re: Strong Cedarwood Variety

    You may like to try Western red cedarwood oil. It smells nothing like the pencil cedars (Virginia, etc.) but it has a strong top note that stands out in blends. The dry down is woody, with notes of...
  38. Re: Any ideas on how to do/learn (smallish) scale CO2 etc extractions? - wandering post

    CO2 extraction is quite complicated and not the best choice for beginners. As a beginner, you'd be better off using a solvent with a much lower vapour pressure, such as pentane. However, pentane is...
  39. Thread: Benzoin Siam

    by Pears
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    Re: Benzoin Siam

    Benzoin Oliffac 63 is a mobile liquid, containing ethanol. I haven't tried it though, so I couldn't tell you if it smells more like Siam or Sumatra benzoin. Perhaps someone else knows?
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    Re: Variability of Birch tar oil?

    Thanks guys. I've ordered some rectified birch bark oil, to see if it produces a notably lighter oil than the crude tar. I'll let you know the results in due course.

    Pears
  41. Replies
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    Re: Variability of Birch tar oil?

    Hey flagellum, yes, caustic soda and sodium hydroxide are one and the same. However, you'd need to check the label or MSDS to find out if it's pure sodium hydroxide. I'd only recommend using it if...
  42. Replies
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    Re: Variability of Birch tar oil?

    Okay, now for the results: I tested both crude birch tar and rectified cade oil. The crude birch tar completely lost it's meaty aroma, but it still smells very smoky. The aqueous solution turned...
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    Re: Variability of Birch tar oil?

    Indeed, the phenols and NaOH form phenoxides, which are soluble in water and therefore readily removed. I couldn't say how common it is to use this process on birch tar oil, but it is, infact, common...
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    Re: Variability of Birch tar oil?

    It's certainly much more than you're likely to need, Bill, which is why I said "up to...". One issue is that you may not always know the composition of an essential oil, and in some cases it may be...
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    Re: Variability of Birch tar oil?

    Hi flagellum, to alkali-wash an essential oil you'll need a strong base, such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH); and distilled water. One part NaOH to two parts distilled water (w/w) would be sufficient....
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    Re: Variability of Birch tar oil?

    Surely that depends on the effect that is required, David. If there's a market for fractionated oils, such as Atlas cedarwood heart, then I don't see why a fractionated birch tar oil, with less...
  47. Replies
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    Variability of Birch tar oil?

    I'd be interested to know if anyone has noticed a significant difference in aroma between different batches of birch tar oil, besides the obvious difference between crude and rectified oils. I would...
  48. Thread: Powdery effect

    by Pears
    Replies
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    Re: Powdery effect

    Rosone is otherwise known as rose acetate, and rose ketones are otherwise known as damasacones; as David said:

    Odor descriptors for powdery:

    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/odor/powdery.html
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    Re: How to Make Marijuana Perfume

    Precisely.
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    Re: How to Make Marijuana Perfume

    His list is primarily comprised of amino acids and vitamins, along with a few toxic ingredients not fit for human consumption. Some of the amino acids listed are neurotransmitters, and some are...
  51. Thread: Perfume ebooks.

    by Pears
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    Re: Perfume ebooks.

    I admire your conviction, angelick. There's a talking digital kitchen scale called VOX 3000TS, which weighs to the nearest gram. If you were to dissolve say 1 gram of essential oil, in 9 grams of...
  52. Thread: Beta ionone

    by Pears
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    Re: Beta ionone

    Hi Milhaus, in my experience beta ionone is the weakest, which suggests that I am anosmic to it. I can certainly smell it, but it's nowhere near as strong to me as alpha ionone. One study revealed...
  53. Thread: Beta ionone

    by Pears
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    Re: Beta ionone

    David, how strong would you say that gamma methyl ionone 70-95%, is compared to say alpha ionone, beta ionone, or alpha irone? Thanks.
  54. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    I've done a little research, Chris, and Ambrofix wasn't a registered trademark until 2006; although it's possible that they used it prior to that as a trade name. Amberlyn Super (and most likely...
  55. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    Thanks for the thought, Bill, but I'm in the UK. Fortunately Chris has some in stock though.

    Chris, thankyou for your detailed response. I happen to be after something phenolic for this...
  56. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    Thankyou Chris, I could be interested in some of your inventory in the future. Can you tell me how the Ambrarome compares to regular Labdanum in terms of odour? The data sheet from Synarome states,...
  57. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    There does seem to be a fair amount of contradicting information out there, so it's not surprising that even experienced perfumers don't know what to make of it all. The majority of the literature...
  58. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    Interesting, the first compound in the GC/MS (8α,12-epoxy-13,14,15,16-tertnorlabdane) is Ambroxide, aka Ambroxan:

    http://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=6790-58-5
  59. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    Thanks, Luigi. Here's another source that may be worth reading with regards to Ambroxan, aka Ambergris oxide:
    ...
  60. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    Goodscents list it as occuring in Ambergris, under the 'Occurence' tab:

    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1016071.html

    It's also listed (Naphthofuran (6790-58-5) as a degradation...
  61. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    Thankyou Chris, I'll bear that in mind. The formula that I'm recreating already contains mixed ionones, so perhaps I should use a little less Ambrofix?

    Does anyone what they used as substitutes...
  62. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    Thankyou Chris, you always give concise answers.



    If I understood you correctly, that would be 67% more Ambrofix than Ambergris, before dissolution. Is that correct? If so, that's a little...
  63. Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    I'm trying to figure out how much Ambrofix that I should use to replace the Ambergris in a recipe. What would you say are their equivalent strengths, upon dissolution? Assuming that the Ambergris is...
  64. Thread: Tolu balsam

    by Pears
    Replies
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    Re: Tolu balsam

    I'd recommend following Bill's suggestion first; leaving it to settle and then carefully pouring off the clearer layer on top. Then try dissolving the precipitate in a little more alcohol, before...
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    Re: Plasticine / playdough

    I've read that the smell of Plasticine is predominantly due to the antioxidant that it contains, Irganox L130.

    Unrefined Palm Oil, aka Red Palm Oil, has an aroma similar to Olive Oil and...
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    Re: What does v.p mean?

    I believe that 'est' means estimate in this instance. If we were to convert mm/Hg to m/Hg, then the figure would be 10 (est). Not too far from 14, if you consider that the former is only an...
  67. Replies
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    Re: What does v.p mean?

    Not all of the figures appear to be cohesive. If we take Geraniol as an example, she gives a V.P of 21. The V.P given by Good Scents is 0.021 mm/Hg @ 25.00 C, which strongly suggests that she...
  68. Replies
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    Re: How To Fragrance Talcum Powder ?

    Good advice, David. Fortunately, he wishes to use Sandalwood and Vetiver oils, which improve with age, and may therefore be slower to degrade. None the less, an antioxidant would be a good idea....
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    Re: What does v.p mean?

    As David said, it may be the vapour pressure, but without the units of measurement it's pretty useless information. I'd suggest that you ignore the figure.
  70. Re: Is THIS Ambergris? (Old Fritzsche Brothers vial)

    If you take a look at their price list from 1967, you can see that under 'animal fixatives' they list two forms of Ambergris; 'Gray Extra' and 'Artificial F.B':
    ...
  71. Re: Is THIS Ambergris? (Old Fritzsche Brothers vial)

    Nice find, Renegade. I think that it's most likely a synthetic substitute. If you take a look at Schimmel & Co's (Fritzsche Brothers) 1936 price list, you can see that under Flower Oils and Bases...
  72. Replies
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    Re: Need help with a budget!

    He said that he never does any work like a perfumer, so why assume that he's experienced with making fragrances for soap and candles? He may or may not be, but either way a little advice could...
  73. Replies
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    Re: Need help with a budget!

    edit.
  74. Replies
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    Re: Need help with a budget!

    Carles, you'd also need to test the suitability of the fragrances for use in soaps and candles. Phenols (eugenol, thymol, etc) and esters (linalyl acetate, benzyl acetate, etc.) will largely be...
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    Re: frankincense oil in the uk

    You may like to try Hermitage oils, they have a few from Somalia:

    http://www.hermitageoils.com/frankincense-carteri-co2
    http://www.hermitageoils.com/frankincense-sacra-somaliland-co-op-project...
  76. Thread: Old wood accord

    by Pears
    Replies
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    Re: Old wood accord

    Vanilla absolute or vanillin may be helpful, but use them very sparingly. The lignin in wood and paper is composed of monolignols, which are structurally similar to vanillin. Upon decomposition with...
  77. Replies
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    Re: Green Cognac Essential Oil

    Cheers guys! One thing confuses me though. David, you mentioned that it was fleeting and most definitely a top note. Various suppliers describe it as having excellent tenacity. I wonder if different...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Green Cognac Essential Oil

    Mumsy, did you discover how much cognac oil that you needed to replace the aroma of the brandy in the recipe?
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    Re: Realistic Pear aroma?

    Thanks guys!

    Paul, I had read that Bartlett (Williams) Pears contained ethyl 2 4-decadienoate, but I didn't know that the percentage was quite so high. Bedoukian describe it as being the...
  80. Replies
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    Realistic Pear aroma?

    I'd like to know if anyone has tried any realistic synthetic Pear aroma compounds or accords. Has anyone tried Pear ester (ethyl 2 4-decadienoate), or Pear valerate (Peranat)? I'm looking for...
  81. Replies
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    Re: Green Cognac Essential Oil

    Thanks for your help guys. It sounds like it might be useful in small amounts, to replicate old formulas that call for the use of brandy.
  82. Thread: Old wood accord

    by Pears
    Replies
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    Re: Old wood accord

    I find Mace to be quite a bit sharper, although I've only used it as a spice. They both come from the same plant and smell very similar, so use which ever you prefer.
  83. Replies
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    Green Cognac Essential Oil

    I haven't seen much mention of this oil on Basenotes, and I was wondering if anyone here has experience with using it. How strong is it and how much do you use in the fragrance concentrate to get a...
  84. Replies
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    Re: Best Value on Oils?

    Creatingperfume are cheaper than Perfumer's Apprentice on some products, and vice versa for other products, so compare their prices before you buy anything.
  85. Replies
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    Re: Recreating log fire scent

    They usually don't sell in amounts less than 1 kg and I believe that they have a minimum order of several hundred euros.
  86. Replies
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    Re: Best Value on Oils?

    Double post.
  87. Replies
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    Re: Best Value on Oils?

    That may depend on your location, as shipping can be costly.
  88. Replies
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    Re: Recreating log fire scent

    I would second what edshepp said. If it smells like Wintergreen then it's almost certainly Birch essential oil. Both Wintergreen essential oil and Birch essential oil contain methyl salicylate,...
  89. Thread: Old wood accord

    by Pears
    Replies
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    1,403

    Re: Old wood accord

    A little Nutmeg oil or oleoresin would be good for sweetening and rounding out such an accord. It has a precious woody undertone of good tenacity.
  90. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    The link works for me, but it only shows the abstract.
  91. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    I can't help you with the different types of frankincense but the best rosemary oil comes from the verbenone chemotype. It has an aroma much more like the fresh plant and it is the best type for...
  92. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    If you want something slightly less medicinal as a top note then perhaps you could try Pine/Fir needle essential oil.
  93. Replies
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    Re: Food Flavourings,where to...

    You'll also find suitable books under the books tab on Good Scents:

    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com

    You may find the preview of 'Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients' useful. I believe...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Origanum EO prohibited?

    You may have been looking under the safety tab, at the LD50s. Origanum oil is relatively non toxic, like many essential oils. The dermal LD50 for origanum oil, for rabbits (the dose at which 50% of...
  95. Thread: Mellis Accord

    by Pears
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    Re: Mellis Accord

    Well spotted, Mumsy.
  96. Thread: Mellis Accord

    by Pears
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    2,159

    Re: Mellis Accord

    Coumarin isn't from the Orient, although it can be used to give an Oriental effect. Most of the ingredients in these kinds of fragrances were originally from the Orient, although later additions like...
  97. Thread: Mellis Accord

    by Pears
    Replies
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    Re: Mellis Accord

    That's quite a coincidence, I was just reading that today, Christine! You can find the section regarding mellis accords at the bottom of page 123, entitled The Oriental Perfumes: Shalimar, Must De...
  98. Thread: Mellis Accord

    by Pears
    Replies
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    2,159

    Re: Mellis Accord

    I remember reading in one 19th century book that the addition of caraway seed, or caraway seed oil became common in later variants of Honey water. Caraway and patchouli have similar earthy, minty,...
  99. Thread: Mellis Accord

    by Pears
    Replies
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    2,159

    Re: Mellis Accord

    My first name is James, so it would have to be shaken, not stirred! :happy:
  100. Thread: Mellis Accord

    by Pears
    Replies
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    2,159

    Re: Mellis Accord

    Indeed, you should use the English apothecaries' system when following such a recipe. Below are some quick conversions for others:

    1 gallon brandy - 3785 ml
    1 pints rose water - 709.5 ml
    1...
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