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    Re: Perfume Making Workshops

    That sounds like a really great idea and I’d be delighted to put on an intensive workshop if there is enough interest. The advanced workshop on the 8th generated quite a bit of enthusiasm at the...
  2. Re: Less volatile alternative to Methyl Salicylate

    You might get something like the effect youíre after by using some of the rhubarb odourants - rhubofix, rhubofaran and alicate for example - not exactly wintergreen but at least somewhat in the right...
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    Re: Diffusers and Fixatives classification

    I certainly agree this is the case currently, but itís always possible that as the state of the art and knowledge about it improves, that might change in the future. I hope I might live long enough...
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    Re: Diffusers and Fixatives classification

    Billís speculation about altering the sensitivity of the human olfactory system might be relevant here too - so in other words we detect citrus smells more easily in the presence of Hedione than...
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    Re: Diffusers and Fixatives classification

    Good point, I get that too but hadnít made the connection.
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    Re: Diffusers and Fixatives classification

    Honestly Iím not sure whether I can give you a good quality answer. Certainly no fixative acts equally on all materials and no diffuser does either, but whether when Hedione is acting as both a...
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    Re: Solvent for Scentenal in Water

    Iím sure youíre right, but if it was me, Iíd want to do the experiment to be sure - as you say not difficult.

    I can certainly observe a huge difference in a fragrance material diluted in a...
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    Re: Aging and refrigeration

    Yes I think thatís the best way to look at it. I believe that there must be some chemistry happening in the blend or even the freshly distilled product that results in the change of odour, but if so...
  9. Re: Customer wants single Cashmeran Scent - Safe up to which amount?

    Just to add to this, Cashmeran is an IFF product and in their product data sheet they recommend a use level of ďtraces to 2%Ē so I would tend to avoid using too much more than that unless youíve done...
  10. Re: All or nothing ingredients versus gradual ones.

    This is indeed a real distinction but we tend to refer to high-impact materials rather than all-or-nothing ones: so materials like the aliphatic aldehydes, pyrazines and many others are detected by...
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    Re: Solvent for Scentenal in Water

    Bitrex (denatonium benzoate) has no appreciable smell even at much higher concentrations than are used in denaturing ethanol: I have a 2% solution and there is no noticeable smell even from that.
    ...
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    Re: Diffusers and Fixatives classification

    This all seems entirely logical and reasonable - though Iíve also heard it said that some fixatives may work in a quite different way - where resins in particular may form a thin film on the surface...
  13. Re: Confusion about citrus essential oils (cold pressed vs. distilled vs. folded vs. terpeneless vs.

    I think David has covered most of the ground here already but one thing not so far mentioned is the special consideration for bergamot oil in that the grade used routinely in most perfumery - and...
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    Re: Solvent for Scentenal in Water

    I agree with Bill that starting by making your fragrance up diluted in ethanol is a good idea. You could also use one (or more) of the Polysorbate / PEG solubilisers to help ensure that it goes into...
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    Re: Aging and refrigeration

    Good answer, but as has been said, itís still helpful to chill-filter a freshly made perfume batch. I wrote about how best to store finished fragrances a couple of years ago on the blog which people...
  16. Re: Of Plumbing, Perfume and Private Messages

    Thanks very much everyone for the supportive comments. Most times I come here and enjoy very much trying to help, being challenged by difficult questions and looking stuff up that I think I already...
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    Re: benzophenone-2 effects

    UV absorbers help protect the scent, but especially the colour of your fragrance from UV. You donít have to use one - itís a choice - and if you do you donít have to use benzophenone - both benzyl...
  18. Re: Had My First Sales Event-- my experience so far...

    Many congratulations on an epic beginning: well done!
  19. Re: Question: How to Evaluate Your Final Perfume and What to Do if Something Goes Wrong

    I donít think there are universally accepted definitions for these terms but here are the ones from Curtis & Williams:





    They donít offer a definition of the term Ďmodifierí so hereís my own:
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    Re: Diffusers and Fixatives classification

    Just to add to the sum of information on fixation by, among other things, Hedione: you may find reading this paper helpful, which even though it’s nearly 50 years old, is still the most systematic...
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    Re: "Safe" oakmoss

    Treemoss absolute is very good yes, among other things itís used in Terre DíHermes but the note is different from Oakmoss and the natural material contains the same problem chemicals - atranol and...
  22. Re: para-methyl hydratropaldehyde CAS# 99-72-9

    Fascinating - Iíve not seen that before - perhaps then, a very small amount of peppermint might be useful too?

    On Hydrocinnamaldehyde, itís something I carry so if Christine canít source it from...
  23. Re: para-methyl hydratropaldehyde CAS# 99-72-9

    Interesting formula. No chemical is ever a direct replacement for another with no differences and Iím not familiar with the smell of the PMHA that you are trying to replace here, which is a...
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    Re: Glass Droppers

    I use glass Pasteur pipettes with a cotton plug and silicone teat.

    When Iím feeling exceptionally cash poor and time rich I take the cotton plug out, rinse with ethanol and put them in the...
  25. Re: Third formula in my life and compliments!

    Congratulations! What a great start: well done.
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    Re: Another cloudy question

    Do you mean those are the ingredients, or the notes?

    If those are all the ingredients then Iím back to Davidís original suggestion that there must be something wrong with one or more of the oils...
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    Re: Another cloudy question

    Youíd need an analysis of the oil to be sure, but most citrus oils contain some. However unless you put in a very large proportion of lemon oil (in which case youíd get clouding from the terpene...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    I see Iíve been away from this discussion for rather too long and the conversation has moved on to entirely other areas. How on earth did we end up here from Heliotropine?!

    Nice description of...
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    Re: Reseller's Percentage

    Short answer: It depends.

    Slightly longer answer: The two questions are related - if I sell on a sale-or-return basis and get paid only when the retailer sells stuff then I expect to take more...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    The perfumer herself called this accord her Ďhug meí accord - and you can see why - the effect on a perfume is to make it comforting and soft; easy to wear. Those of us who choose to make Ďart...
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    Re: Another cloudy question

    All the obvious causes having been eliminated, itís time to look for something less usual.

    Does your blend include methyl anthranilate? Remembering of course that it may (also) be present in one...
  32. Of Plumbing, Perfume and Private Messages

    OK so, many years ago when I knew everything (remember how that felt anyone?), I decided to replace the taps on the bath. Plumbing is easy enough after all isnít it? Naturally I read all about how...
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    Re: Diffusers and Fixatives classification

    Same for me. With all the other Ďrulesí there turn out to be so many exceptions and confusions that they donít really help that much. Most fixatives turn out to be solid or thick, sticky liquids...
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    Re: "Safe" oakmoss

    Before buying an expensive oakmoss base, Iíd recommend trying out Veramoss / Evernyl / Methyl Atratate - all the same material - and all the key odour component of natural oakmoss but made...
  35. Re: Need opinon on which synthetic musk(s) to use for...

    I can confirm Fixateur is a Firmenich product, but didnít know it was the only way to use ambroxan (presumably Cetalox as itís Firmenich) though it makes perfect sense that it would have been.
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    Re: Concentrate Preparation

    I think youíve got most of the key factors already in this thread so Iíll just add this:

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    This is a batch of perfume concentrate in the last stages of being prepared for a customer. Itís...
  37. Re: Need opinon on which synthetic musk(s) to use for...

    I have all three (several different natural ambergris tinctures, fixateure 505e and Ambergris Oliffac) and Iím inclined to agree that 505 is a better product for most purposes. The ambergris oliffac...
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    Re: Perfume Making Workshops

    Yes, no shortage of space on Saturday 7th, and still just one slot left for the Sunday.
  39. Re: perfume formulas/recipes using glycerin

    Itís hard to believe weíre still having this discussion: above is all you need to know on the subject, absolutely correct and sufficient.

    Nothing prevents you from adding glycerin and your...
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    Re: Perfumery and pets....

    I have four dogs and although I do have the luxury of a large room converted into a perfumery they are rarely shut out of it: only when there is a high risk of something that either could harm them...
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    Re: Perfume Making Workshops

    The materials are chosen to enable people new to perfume making to compose with the highest possible chance of success - so Iíve tried to choose things that are not too sensitive as to dosage,...
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    Re: Perfume Making Workshops

    Thanks! I'm looking forward to meeting you too.

    There are still some spaces on that workshop (Saturday 7th February) but the Advanced one the next day has room for just one more participant.
  43. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    I have and use both and agree they have similar strength from an olfactory standpoint. However I would say you'll get more fixation and probably more enhancent from 505 than from the same amount of a...
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    Re: Crimping machine

    Just to add quickly to this, Oskar Karla are a delight to deal with and, in addition to the crimp bottles, also sell a selection of screw fit ones, which is what I’ve opted for on the basis that then...
  45. Re: First ever perfume finished with a crimped bottle......

    Congratulations, thatís beautiful!
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    Re: Centifolether

    For reasons I canít fathom it appears to be vastly more expensive this side of the Atlantic, where it is made, than in the US . . . volume sales is probably the explanation but at any rate the best...
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    Re: Iso E super and Kephalis

    Both can have similar effects, adding richness and body to a fragrance, but Iso E Super is more subtle and possibly more versatile, working well with virtually everything, including citrus fragrances...
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    Re: Centifolether

    Sorry to take so long and thanks for the PM reminder ;-)



    So, here are the three accords that were presented at the BSP symposium on 16th May 2013. I’ll just remind you here that the purpose...
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    Re: Perfume Making Workshops

    Thanks FollyFlick, Iím looking forward to meeting you.



    Iím not sure how well itís going to work, and the latest antics of the EU (crazy new VAT rules) are not helping the prospects of selling...
  50. Re: Which are the most affordable natural essential oils?

    About the cheapest material I use is sweet orange oil. At the moment, in the quantities I use, itís cheaper than any of the aroma chemicals that I use, though not by much. why do you want to know?
  51. Re: What is the maximum amount of water (or minimum amount of alcohol) to prevent separation?

    You are exactly right. Notice that Javiero and I had a discussion about this on another thread and it turns out that he has access to, and is using, a very pure anhydrous ethanol, which does not...
  52. Re: Congrats to Mr. Bartlett and Pell Wall perfumes!

    Thanks again everyone and a very Happy New Year!

    2014 closed rather well for me, with Beaver (from Zoologist Perfumes) receiving a Best Perfume of 2014 on CaFleureBon as well. Victor, the owner...
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    Re: Whole rose flower intinction?

    Youíre welcome. Iím pretty sure I have a bag of them somewhere, but they are neither hard to find nor expensive:

    http://www.ebay.com/bhp/dried-rose-buds
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    Re: Whole rose flower intinction?

    My experience with this type of thing has not been good: I did it with lavender flowers in a lavender reed diffuser and they looked great for a couple of weeks but finished up looking as though a...
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    Re: Safranol

    I have some safranal and I can confirm that it does have an olfactory impact even at 0005% or less. My experience however is that using a natural saffron product gives a much better impression of...
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    There are quite a few things that can create a powdery effect - some musks and orris are certainly among them - many resins can also contribute to it.

    If what youíre interested in doing is...
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    Iíve missed rather a lot of this discussion, sorry, still busy catching up after the pre-Christmas rush.

    IFRA gets a lot of unfair blame in my view for effects seen in the market that are mainly...
  58. Re: QuiVŪ question on blending and making accords

    Spending time learning your materials is never wasted and without it producing something good is always going to depend on a lot of luck: it can also be good fun, the trick I think is to keep it fun,...
  59. Re: Is a monster-sized musk molecule causing major mayhem?

    Attack of the Godzilla Molecule

    The title of this thread had me imagining some kind of giant musk molecule running amok in Tokyo ... OK so I may be a bit bonkers.

    Both Iso E Super and...
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    Itís highly likely thatís exactly what you need. Iím quite sure the Scent & Chemistry assessment will be correct, but equally sure that the note does not rely entirely on that expensive natural...
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    Re: Helional

    It is actually possible to store it under nitrogen by using one of those devices sold for keep opened bottles of wine (not a problem I find happens that often to me - bottles tend to get finished...
  62. Re: Congrats to Mr. Bartlett and Pell Wall perfumes!

    Thanks Paul - I had a bit of help with it - though I did take the photo myself just before Christmas (that rose is from my garden and lasted not much longer than it took to take the picture: I was...
  63. Re: QuiVŪ question on blending and making accords

    Thereís a lot of wisdom here already but Iíll just add some commentary from my perspective.

    For me the Ďtrusted and trueí Jean Carles method is too microscopic for most beginning amateurs: it was...
  64. Re: Congrats to Mr. Bartlett and Pell Wall perfumes!

    Thanks everyone, I confess Iím extremely pleased by this and indeed by the lovely review the very same Elena wrote over on Fragrantica of Pretty in Pink
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  65. Re: DIY Suppliers with MSDS, Certificate of analysis and Declaration of Allergens

    Thatís exactly what I do - the tedious bit is getting them all organised and online.
  66. Re: DIY Suppliers with MSDS, Certificate of analysis and Declaration of Allergens

    The only rocket science comes in when youíre making your own blends: as long as you are re-selling something manufactured by another itís just tedious!
  67. Re: What musks, woody ambers are in Alien by Mugler?

    Unfortunately the terms are not used consistently and Ambrox can sometimes be used to mean both the chiral and racemic forms of Ambroxide. Iíve written about that and the various other confusions in...
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    Re: Benzoin Siam

    Not relevant to the consistency question but just in case itís useful to future readers who may find this thread in searches, I did one of my Ďwhat the terms meaní type posts ages ago seeking to...
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    Re: Green Tea Accord

    Sadly thatís the most likely explanation. Even to get my Green Tea Givco I had to wait for Givaudan to make it specially: the distributor donít keep it in stock and evidently nor do Givaudan, so I...
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    Re: Green Tea Accord

    Good idea if we can, but difficult if the captive David mentioned is still captive. Of course itís possible Givaudan have dropped it because it isnít . . . first find your sample to paraphrase Mrs...
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    Re: The Final Thread On Water

    I can only add to this that the ABV (Alcohol By Volume) declaration on perfumes is because this is required in some administrations by local laws and for big international manufacturers itís easier...
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    Re: Perfume Making Workshops

    A quick update on this: there are two workshops now up on the blog (in addition to the Incense Making one Iím doing in association with Perfume Lovers London):
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    The Introductory Workshop is...
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    Re: Bleaching a fragrance?

    Just a word of warning on using decolourised oils: you canít assume they will smell the same as the naturally coloured equivalent. Although sometimes they are very close in odour, sometimes they can...
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    Re: Green Tea Accord

    Iíve bad news on that Iím afraid: I asked the UK distributor for Givaudan to see if they could get some Tea Shop: apparently it isnít made any longer and Givaudan were unable to offer any alternative...
  75. Re: Unpleasant lavandin - 'spoilt' EO or trick of the mind?

    Iím not sure whether this helps, but as we have a local lavender farm (which mainly grows lavandin) Iíve had the opportunity to smell freshly distilled lavandin oil and compare it to the same oil...
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    Re: Rosewood source or substitute

    You could further reduce the cost of that by adding some synthetic linalool, something like 40% linalool, 50% Ho Wood, 7% Coriander and 3% Rosemary would be about right I think
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    Re: clearwood firmenich

    I have a sample of Clearwood that Iíve yet to find time to evaluate properly. If it passes muster Iíll buy some and in that case it will appear on my list.

    Meanwhile if youíre looking for a...
  78. Re: DIY Suppliers with MSDS, Certificate of analysis and Declaration of Allergens

    As I understand it, Plush Folly mainly sell to small, craft scale businesses and have MSDS available online (not sure about the other documentation).

    Mostly I sell to people who are hobbyists -...
  79. Re: Your Exaltolide may not be Exaltolide... really.

    Good thread and sorry to be so late to it.

    My experience, buying almost always by the Kg or more, is that when I buy Firmenich products they come in containers still bearing the Firmenich brand,...
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    Re: Syringaldehyde anyone?

    Yes Iíve used syringaldehyde and Iíve found it useful mainly in florals. I think I originally bought it for use in my Woodsmoke room fragrance, though I didnít use it in that in the end, I tried it...
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    Sticky: Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    It depends on what concentration you want, but 10% will be perfectly wearable with most blends. A traditional cologne is made at more like 5% though, so if thatís what you wanted youíd need to add...
  82. Re: Experimenting with EO/AC ratios & accord samples - what containers do you use?

    I like to use clear glass containers when Iím experimenting, so that itís easy to see that the mixture isnít clouded, has mixed evenly and what colour it is (all more difficult in amber or otherwise...
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    Re: Self-proclaimed perfumers

    This, it seemed to me when starting out, was a huge problem. As an independent perfumer (and I do consider myself to be a Perfumer by the definition David used) how do I demonstrate that to...
  84. Re: DIY Suppliers with MSDS, Certificate of analysis and Declaration of Allergens

    I can add a couple more UK ones, Plush Folly offer MSDS on all their materials.

    If you buy from my list I also offer MSDS on everything (the great majority are available to download online but...
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    Re: Formula for Lily (Lys) Accord ?

    Some thoughts: first Iím not sure what PCPA is but if you mean para-Cresyl Phenyl Acetate then thatís a lot of horse, even at that low dosage. Ditto with the phenyl acetaldehyde which is also very...
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    Re: Perfume Making Workshops

    Thanks for the thoughts again all.

    As far as one questioner monopolising things is concerned, that's a matter for me to handle: I've been a facilitator, trainer and chairman in various roles since...
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    Re: Perfume Making Workshops

    Oh donít worry Iím not offended: and Iím still tempted to come to you...

    Thanks everyone for the ideas and thoughts: it may help to know whatís covered in the Saturday workshop (which Iíve been...
  88. Re: Vertical vs horizontal perfumes & accords

    Just a quick addition to this, a finished perfume that fits the description given by DrSmellThis for Ďhorizontalí is conventionally called Ďlinearí in the industry. I donít think either is more or...
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    Re: An amber accord

    You might find this post on my blog about Amber helpful in pulling apart the different meanings.
  90. Re: What musks, woody ambers are in Alien by Mugler?

    Actually I think that accords very much with my experience, itís just a question of degree: some base notes, like vanillin, are really quite dominant even from the beginning while others, like...
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    Re: Perfume Making Workshops

    Thanks for that Sarah :)

    I love that phone call btw: I have several certificates but none of them say Iím a qualified perfumer - there isnít anywhere you can get one of those that I know of (well...
  92. Re: What musks, woody ambers are in Alien by Mugler?

    Itís worth remembering that the terms base, middle (or heart) and top notes are both somewhat subjective and, more importantly, context dependent. So in this case, if there isnít something more...
  93. Re: Looking for a Nose/Perfumer to Consult

    The only problem is the cost: Iíve not yet sent concentrate to Australia but I send to other parts of the world regularly, including most recently Slovenia and Canada for example. Even fully diluted...
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    Re: Perfume Making Workshops

    Iím not sure I can quite justify a trip to the Caribbean at the moment, but I confess it does sound like fun :)

    Regarding video and sound recording of the workshops I can imagine I might manage a...
  95. Re: is good sandalwood even a thing anymore?

    Thanks for the blind recommendation there Paul - Iíll send you some next time weíre exchanging materials - meantime there are a few people who post on this board who have attended one or more of my...
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    Re: Musk Ketone Replacer

    Interesting, Iíd not looked all that up. That compares with, for example less than 1mg/Kg for nicotine, 200mg/Kg for Aspirin and around 90g/Kg for water. LD50 numbers are fascinating, though I wish...
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    Re: Onion and/or garlic

    I take it Israeli Customs officers suffer badly with constricted arteries then :rolleyesold:

    ... and if theyíve been using your Sulfurol to fix the problem they must smell pretty ripe too :eek:
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    Re: Extending Natural Perfumes

    Just to answer this in a slightly different way, I would look first at three classes of aroma chemical product to achieve the outcome youíre looking for:

    1) Ambers (in the ambergris sense not the...
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    Re: Musk Ketone Replacer

    The trouble with these sorts of study is exactly that they lump the musks all together as though they were of equivalent impact, which they certainly are not. Musk Xylene has been banned throughout...
  100. Re: What musks, woody ambers are in Alien by Mugler?

    Just on that subject, Iím in the process of evaluating a new ambrocenide product that was demonstrated at the last BSP symposium - Symrise have been supplying the product only at 10% in DPG for...
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