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  1. Re: Concentrating Fragrance/Cologne/Perfume to Improve Longevity/Projection/Sillage- A Fix for the B

    So, you've boiled off a large proportion of the alcohol, all of the topnotes and a large proportion of the midnotes, leaving just the basenotes. The original cheapies you boiled down probably...
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    Re: Daphne Scent...

    White Lotus has an all-natural formula for Daphne. I haven't tried it, but it makes interesting reading:

    http://www.whitelotusaromatics.com/newsletters/daphne_perfume

    Daphne odora is probably...
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    Re: adding water, confusion...

    This business of 'adding water' seems so confusing to beginners. Where on earth did the idea come from?
    The answer is beautifully simple:
    NEVER ADD WATER.
    NEVER ADD GLYCERINE/GLYCEROL
  4. Re: Something is missing... Any suggestions?

    There are no basenotes...
    Musks. Lots of musks.
  5. Replies
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    Re: Advantages of Aldehydes

    Hi Macaul, I think you are confusing "Aldehydes" with "Synthetics". Aldehydes are just a very small, very specific subset of many thousands of synthetic aromachemicals. In fact, there are only about...
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    Re: Must Have Equipment for your "Lab"

    Scales
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    Re: Help needed

    I was thinking the same thing, gido. Although, I mixed up a batch of the basic chypre last night and it's really quite beautiful and is still going strong this morning from the little drop I applied...
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    Re: Missing chypre thread

    Indeed it is! Thanks David. A perfect example of the importance of descriptive subject lines.
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    Missing chypre thread

    A couple of days ago there was a thread on chypre accords where pkiler very kindly posted some interesting formulas. Now it's disappeared unless I've gone blind or mad or both!
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    Re: Brooklyn Playmate

    James, it's a small world. A very small world in this case. I'm holidaying in New York/Brooklyn from Australia at this very moment and I'm staying in an apartment at 40 Wyckoff St. In fact I just...
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    Re: Anosmic to hydroxycitronellal?

    I've had the same problem with Lilial, Lyral and Hedione. I now 'get' Lilial, not only do I 'get' it but it lasts for days on a smelling strip. Furthermore, I realise just how much of it must be...
  12. Re: D-i-y or @Home Synthesis of fragrances?

    ...and it would smell just like... isopropyl alcohol
  13. Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    OK here are two of my very early attempts. Both contain 'Fragrant Oils', which I no longer use, except in these two blends because I can't come up with suitable replacements from my synthetics that...
  14. Re: Jean Carles on base notes and modifiers in cologne...

    Jean Carles is using the term 'cologne' in its specific sense, meaning a fragrance that is comprised largely of top notes. As opposed to the term 'perfume' which refers to a fragrance constructed...
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    Re: Geosmin in the UK?

    Ah the power and wonder of words! I've never heard of geosmin. So, I've just spent a pleasant thirty minutes on a Sunday morning on google, bing and Wikipedia. Fascinating stuff. Just as interesting,...
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    Re: Frankincense help please

    I think what you need is a CO2 extract. Hermitage provide a beautiful Frankincense Carteri CO2 which is so much richer and tenacious than the EO. It's just like smelling the tears.
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    Re: Ideas for non-citrus topnotes

    Great question! I have exactly the same problem and I look forward to our resident experts chiming in. There are many synthetics (benzyl acetate springs to mind) but naturals seem far more limited.
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    Re: Mixing.... help!

    Your newly diluted individual oils can be used straight away. They don't benefit from any maturation time. Once blended, however, it's a very different story: you will notice they improve greatly...
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    Re: Sandalwood Perfume

    Mumsy's statement about certain notes cancelling themselves out is certainly true. When I'm playing around with chypre accords I get wonderful results with oak moss + labdanum, oak moss + vetiver and...
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    Re: volatile coffee EO

    Hermitage Oils has coffee absolute:
    http://www.hermitageoils.com/absolute-oils/coffee-absolute
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    Re: Agarwood smoke

    I immediately thought of Opoponax absolute...

    Mumsy, I'd love to sit down with you and discuss your stormy youth! LOL
  22. Re: Ratios, Measurements, Total CONFUSION!

    A simple solution to your problem when you're just starting out and don't want to go to the trouble and expense of getting scales is to pre-dilute the more viscous substances in ethanol (or carrier...
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    Re: Oakmoss restrictions as per 2013?

    When I was 'practising my accords' ages ago, obviously I blended up some chypres. Only a few days ago I stumbled across them and took a sniff of the classic labdanum/oak moss accord, which I thought...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    David, I completely agree with you. But, as someone who has only recently moved on to aromachemicals, out of frustration over trying to work (largely unsuccessfully) with all naturals, despite having...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    Perfumer's Apprentice stocks a "Heliotropin Replacer" at 50%. Does anyone know anything about this? They provide no further information as to exactly what this substance is. Is it a single...
  26. Re: New UK company, Olfactik, set up to supply the independent perfumer [ships worldwide]

    Just received my first order of synthetics yesterday. It arrived in Australia carefully packaged and in record time, including a couple of bonuses! The international postage is very reasonable...
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    Re: Leather fragrance oil

    I notice a lot of the formulas from the PA site include a relatively small amount of IPM or DPG. Why?
  28. Re: How does this combination of notes sound?

    Sounds very nice. Go easy on the vetiver! What kind of Cedarwood are you planning on using? Virginian, Atlas or Himalayan? Personally, for that combo, I'd probably avoid the Virginian unless you...
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    Re: Shelf lives

    Technically a "natural isolate"?
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    Re: Shelf lives

    Thanks for clarifying that, David. I'm just 'branching out' into synthetics and wanted to get some limonene, but could only find d-limonene. Now I know it's one and the same.
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    Re: Shelf lives

    David, my chemistry is much better than 'average', though still not very good! However, I understand the principles of isomers. My question is really about the difference in smell between 'limonene'...
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    Re: Shelf lives

    Good question, Domek. I look forward to our learned friends' responses. While I'm at it, is there a difference between Limonene and D-Limonene?
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    Re: Legal issues

    I hope it's not illegal because I, for one, would love to see that! Surely there'd be no problem if no names were mentioned.
  34. Re: New UK company, Olfactik, set up to supply the independent perfumer [ships worldwide]

    I visited your site for the first time last night Russell and it is beautifully designed. Thank you. I'll be placing my first order very soon!
  35. Replies
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    Re: Aromachemicals ordered - questions!

    Looks like I need to get some Hedione! Thanks everyone for your most informative responses. And thanks Chris for clarifying the significance of the ingredients list on perfume boxes. One thing...
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    Re: Aromachemicals ordered - questions!

    Thanks Gido and Chris for your help and suggestions. I'll certainly take them on board for the next order. My choices of largely base notes were deliberate. They're the notes I'm having the most...
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    Aromachemicals ordered - questions!

    Sorry for yet another thread about ordering aromachemicals!

    I just ordered the following list of goodies from The Perfumer's Apprentice after ploughing through many posts here (thanks Chris B for...
  38. Re: Artemisia Absinthum? Where to buy it?

    Hermitage Oils. Ships world-wide
  39. Re: Suggestions of fragrances to add for a woman

    You should dissolve it in alcohol to reduce it to a thin liquid. Same for all the thick and sticky materials, such as your oak moss abs. 50% should do it, sometimes you'll need to go 25%. Then you...
  40. Re: Suggestions of fragrances to add for a woman

    Chris, you are so good. What would this place be without your balanced reasoning and clarity of thought and expression? Thank you for all the time and effort you put into your responses.
  41. Re: Suggestions of fragrances to add for a woman

    Hi Samantha, tempting though it seems, anything that 'saves time' in this wonderful hobby is of limited use. Nothing beats using the time effectively by studying the individual notes and practicing...
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    Re: Share your perfume recipes

    Thanks for starting this, Man_From_Shalimar (how's things in Shalimar?). I've always meant to do this myself and I've wondered why there wasn't already a sticky or a sub-forum for it.

    Anyway,...
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    Re: How can i make coconut natural perfume?

    Massoia bark is available from Hermitage Oils. They ship worldwide. Go easy on it, it will overpower anything you blend it with.
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    Re: How can i make coconut natural perfume?

    I also have a fascination for coconut and have always believed that there was no such thing as coconut essential oil or absolute. I've relied on synthetics. However it appears that White Lotus...
  45. Re: Labdanum , Cistus ....are they the same???

    I think Labdanum is the resin, whereas Cistus is the EO from the leaves. I've also read of a 'clear' Labdanum. Mystery, that one!
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    Re: St George’s Day Fragrance

    Hi Chris and great project. I recently received some lavender absolute from our wonderful friend Adam at Hermitage Oils. Never having experienced the abs before, this was an epiphany. The most...
  47. Re: First time, first post-- Ambroxan/alcohol mix?

    Hi tlmeyerink. The smell of the alcohol will remain as long as the alcohol remains. Removing the lid will only remove the smell of the alcohol if you leave the lid off long enough for all the alcohol...
  48. Re: The list of oils I want to get and concoct something with

    Good luck with that. Some great stuff in there. Just a couple of observations: only one citrus (bergamot)? Make sure you get the opoponax absolute and dissolve it at 50% in ethanol, not the essential...
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    Re: Tobacco dark & light

    Hi Acer. I'll kick off with what little I know. Only yesterday I received my latest order from Hermitage Oils which included Tobacco Absolute. It's very dark with a rich, tenacious aroma. I made a...
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    Re: Carrier for essential oils

    The three most common carriers are ethanol, jojoba oil and dipropylene glycol.
    You say you want to avoid alcohol because you want to be able to 'smell the oils as they age'. Alcohol will not...
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    Re: Diluting Absolutes in oil?

    Hi Sekhmet. Alcohol only for alcohol-based fragrances. Oil only for oil-based fragrances. You can't mix up the two. If you're concerned about the shelf life of oil-based fragrances, then use...
  52. Re: Any love out there for XS Extreme Pour Homme?

    Totally different, with an overload of synthetic strawberry, of all things! You smell like a teenage schoolgirl who's just shoplifted a bottle of strawberry fragrant oil from the local voodoo shop.
  53. Re: What carrier oil would be best to dilute Ajmal Musk Gazelle Grade AA Premium Perfume Oil?

    What is everyone's thoughts on ambrette seed? I've never experienced it but I'm curiously drawn to it. I've just been emailing Adam (of Hermitage Oils) and he's had mixed personal reactions to the...
  54. Re: Dilutions for blending - how much total solution?

    I keep two sets of all of my materials:

    1. The original concentrates
    2. Another set of 10ml bottles containing 0.5ml of the concentrate with 4.5ml of alcohol, making a 10% testing dilution, which...
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    Re: Frankincense in Aventus?

    I don't know about Frankincense in Aventus, but am I the only one who detects a prominent virginian cedar note? Thinly disguised pencil shavings, which I love by the way! I'm guessing the smokiness...
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    The smell of iron

    I just found this great article and thought I should share it:

    http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/anie.200602100/full

    Be aware that it's fairly heavy going for non-chemists. I've always...
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    Re: Creed. Please explain...

    There are no 'bad' batches. That's absurd. The seasonal variabilities of the natural ingredients would lead to subtle differences from batch to batch. The only way to guarantee absolute consistency...
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    Re: Benzoin macerated oil

    Thanks Chris. That does help. I didn't realise that Benzoin Siam was different to the 'regular' benzoin.
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    Benzoin macerated oil

    I'm trying to produce an amber accord from Mandy Aftel's 'recipe' of Benzoin 20 parts, Labdanum 5 parts, Vanilla 1 part. My dilemma is: I have some Benzoin Siam macerated oil and need to know just...
  60. Re: I've got a winter leaking problem with dropper caps....

    Those dropper caps are such a pest. The oil pools in the little 'gutter' around the top and eventually escapes through the lid. I've removed all of mine. Just be careful that you tighten the lid to...
  61. Re: Scents that you want to make into perfumes

    Yes! I've always loved the smell of Pears soap too. Every now and then I crave it. But the last lot I bought has been grossly reformulated and its smell is just a shadow of its former self. I'm going...
  62. Replies
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    Re: Diluting Frankincense

    Oh dear... That'd be me! I'll have to give the Sydney Essential Oil Company a try.
  63. Thread: Amber

    by Trufflehunter
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    Re: Amber

    Mandy Aftel's formulation is:

    1 vanilla
    5 labdanum
    20 benzoin

    Although volumetrically, benzoin is the largest portion, benzoin tincture or EO is so mild, it really is almost a dilutant to the...
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    Re: Diluting Frankincense

    aaah Chris, I was hoping you'd chime in with this one. Informative, well-crafted response as always. It's definitely adulterated. I set about doing some more dilutions with new EO's purchased from...
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    Re: Diluting Frankincense

    Well I just came back here after emailing them myself! So tomorrow they'll have a "Frankincense Dilemma" on their hands! I didn't even realise they had a 'certified organic' range so I just checked...
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    Re: Diluting Frankincense

    BCarter, your post disturbed me because I just bought a bottle of Frankincense Essential Oil from New Directions. I just tried dissolving it in 95% ethanol and had the same problem as you. I think...
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    Re: Infusing alcohol with...tea?

    Hi Mumsy... cocoa sounds great! did you use normal powdered cocoa, or beans?
  68. Replies
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    Re: Infusing alcohol with...tea?

    Funny you should mention this... I'm in the middle of an identical 'project' but using coffee. There's a lot of waste from my electric grinder and I've been throwing it out. But I thought I'd collect...
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    Reed diffuser carrier

    What carrier would be used in a reed diffuser? Surely not ethanol: the potential for fire would be huge. Is it dipropylene glycol or some other esoteric mix?

    I've tried making one once. I bought a...
  70. Re: Impressions of Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche

    Completely agree with your comparison with LADM and surprised that no one else has mentioned it. I thought it was just me. I don't get the leather, but plenty of dry amber and spice.
  71. Replies
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    Re: In Search of a Sticky Cinnamon Scent

    Creed's Original Santal
    Dunhill Desire (Red)
  72. Replies
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    Re: Odd Neroli Sauvage bottle

    That's the new bottle. They're starting to put those labels on the 75ml bottles.
  73. Replies
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    Re: L'Air du Desert Marocain

    You're absolutely correct. The trick is with the application. I tend to be heavy handed but I learned the hard way with this gem. Max 2 sprays. Always. No exceptions!
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    Re: Ambre Gris by Pierre Balmain.

    Aaah N_Tesla, it seems that, after all this time, you and I are still the only *real* lovers of this gem. Despite both our efforts, the 'word' is just not getting out. Maybe that's a good thing! I...
  75. Replies
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    Re: Creed lot numbers...SOLVED!

    Fantastic research! Gotta love a man with passion!

    Here's my stuff. Most of it comes from reputable online stores such as FragranceX. The only one I purchased in a 'real store' is GIT.

    Acier...
  76. Replies
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    Re: Colognes that make you nauseos

    Dead rats
    Strong body odour
    Raw sewerage

    There are some fragrances that I don't particularly enjoy, but none that make me nauseous. Is all this simply hyperbole or do you guys have seriously...
  77. Re: The driest, spiciest fragrance you can think of?

    I agree with Timaru. I don't really get any vanilla from LAdDM. Yes, there's heaps of amber but unlike any amber I've smelt before: very dry, not the usual sweet amber as you'd find in Ambre Precieux...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Boss Orange for men

    All I got was Boss Bottled + orange
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    Re: Is the dreamer really romantic?

    God only knows what you guys are smelling
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    Re: creedperfume.com.au - Legit?

    Absolutely legit. I've visited the store which is in Double Bay, Sydney. In fact I bought my very first Creed there (GIT 75ml). Only problem is, they charge full retail. I get everything from...
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    Poll: Re: Between cinnamon

    Baie de Genievre and Original Santal. Two completely different takes on cinnamon.
  82. Replies
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    Re: Ambre Gris, Still A Favorite Of Mine.

    Aah yes! I remember us discussing this little gem some time ago. Like you, it was not just an infatuation. It still has pride of place in my collection. I love the way it morphs through the various...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Dolce & Gabbana By Man

    So true! Although I wouldn't mind if they kept The One as well.
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    Re: Zirh Ikon

    Renato, did you get it from Perfume Connection? Coz I saw it there yesterday for $19.
    Guess I'll be back there tomorrow ;)
  85. Replies
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    Re: Musk: What's your favorite?

    Versace The Dreamer
    Goutal's Musc Nomade

    these would be my favourites in a genre that's not my favourite!
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    Re: Worst Fragrance Names???

    ditto!

    I get annoyed by anything with "Homme" in the name.
  87. Re: What Is The Fragrance You Detest The Most

    That'd be because they've finally cottoned on to the CORRECT pronunciation.

    But, you're right: it's unpleasant.
  88. Replies
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    Re: Male Fragrance Mythbusters

    Myth #7: It's because of my skin. This one really gets me... our skin doesn't change much and has little or no bearing on our perception of a fragrance (as long as it's clean!).

    IT'S ALL ABOUT THE...
  89. Re: What are some fragrances that you like (or love) that are in bottles you hate?

    D&G By Man deserves much better (including reincarnation!)
    +1 for the cheap plastic cap on Jaipur (ditto for Pour Homme)
    +1 for Rive Gauche
    -1 for Boss Bottled: I actually like the bottle! I think...
  90. Replies
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    Re: Grey Flannel - as beautiful as ever

    Thanks for bringing this up, SoS! I have loved GF sinced I first experienced it 30 years ago! Back then it was new and daring and revolutionary. And expensive! I rediscovered it a few years ago after...
  91. Replies
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    Re: Worst bottle flaws?

    I agree with Arpege's cap issue and the Varvatos 'oozing' issue.

    Although my original Varvatos is fine, Artisan oozes very badly. Same basic bottle/spray mechanism I'd say.
  92. Re: So i finally stepped into the world of Creed Tonight...

    love your enthusiasm, johnny! Can't wait for you to try some MI and get back here to tell us your impressions! Go on, do it!
  93. Replies
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    Re: Local stores in Australia for GIT?

    Sniffa: Elizabeth K in Double Bay, if you're in the Sydney area. I bought my first Creed there (GIT).

    http://www.creedperfume.com.au/

    But, she's expensive: you'll be paying full retail. I use...
  94. Re: Voyage en Mediterranee Labdanum de Seville by L'Occitane

    Aromi and Arwen: I might have to revisit it then. First impressions can be deceiving.
  95. Re: Voyage en Mediterranee Labdanum de Seville by L'Occitane

    A bit too 'girly' for me. And 'me' is someone who happily wears Shalimar, Mitsouko and Ambre Gris!
  96. Replies
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    Re: Cassis prominent fragrances

    First to spring to mind is Creed's Silver Mountain Water
  97. Replies
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    Re: Dunhill 51.3N ?

    I'll have to check it out this weekend.
  98. Replies
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    Re: New Fragrance: Davidoff Champion

    I'm in the minority, I know. I actually believe Davidoff is one of the better fragrance houses: certainly leagues ahead of CK, for example. CW is an undisputed classic. CW Frozen is one of my faves...
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    Dunhill 51.3N ?

    I just found this on the Perfume Empire site:
    http://www.perfumeempire.com.au/department.aspx?mode=prodinfo&gen=m&char=D&labelid=22398

    As a bit of a 'Dunhill Tragic', I'm hoping someone can shed...
  100. Re: Best use of a Dominant Lime note in a Fragrance

    +1 for VIW. I love lime. I love coconut. Therefore this approaches nirvana for me.
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