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  1. Replies
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    Re: Very talc like musk combo help needed

    Velvione too
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    Re: Thanks for your help!

    What a great commission, congrats! I'd love to smell these...
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    Re: Citronellic Acid

    Great, thanks for the ideas David. Yes I did search for sour on TGSC

    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/odor/sour.html

    and it came up with a lot of acids which was what got me wondering...
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    Re: Citronellic Acid

    Yes, I wasn't about to add lemon juice to my blend! Do you have any suggestions on a tart, sour note David? I tried a touch of triplal which worked to a certain extent, but started showing its...
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    Re: Citronellic Acid

    I was wondering about this too, I've been looking for a lip-puckering tart note for a cherry accord, and I wondered if I would need an acid...
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    Re: Favorite Lactones

    The Firmenich catalogue describes Jasmolactone (CAS 32764-98-0) as:

    "A very rich and natural floral lactone. It has a floral, jasmine petal-like character with a delicate fruitiness reminiscent of...
  7. Re: Looking for Good Orange Blossom Fragrance Oil

    Nerolidol and farnesol are found in the flower - those might help to add a bit of lush depth. Have a look at other orange flower synthetics as well, to see if they can contribute to the character...
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    Acronyms for solvents

    I've seen the acronyms for several mysterious solvents. Can anyone shed any light?

    IPM or IMP - Isopropyl myristate
    BB - Benzyl benzoate
    PG - Propylene glycol
    DPG - Dipropylene glycol
    DEP -...
  9. Re: Piperonal (Heliotropin) in Perfumer and Flavorist

    How interesting! Thanks for posting. It makes me keen to see some flavour formulae. I don't think I've ever seen one.
  10. Replies
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    Re: Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

    I spotted phenoxy ethyl iso butyrate it in an IFF demonstration formula as well, a "Green Floral". I look forward to trying it out.
    ...
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    Re: Alpha Terpineol

    Aww, Mumsy, I was looking forward to the next chapter in your lilac enfleurage saga! My May just got a little gloomier ;-)
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    Re: Hedione vs Hedione high cis

    I find the HC more rich and creamy and magnolia-like, while hedione is lighter, more dewy and transparent.
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    Re: Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

    Yes, the reseda body seems a strange thing to have in at such a low amount. I thought the same about the carvone - I know it's strong but there's such a tiny amount there. I wonder, seeing as its a...
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    Re: Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

    That could be some good detective work there, this is Chandler Burr talking about Baby Doll:

    "Obviously if you're a woman and you want to play that "woman" role consciously, then by all means go...
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    Re: Honeysuckle accord

    Don't use Indolence Trufflehunter, you'll never get your accord finished! :lolk:
  16. Re: Is there a way to know which materials won't work in candles?

    Thanks very much for the information David, can I ask what it is that makes the terpenes you mention no good for candles? Is it to do with solubility or something else? Or is it just something you've...
  17. Re: Is there a way to know which materials won't work in candles?

    Oh, those would be super useful, yes please. Thanks!
  18. Re: Is there a way to know which materials won't work in candles?

    I will be using a mixture of essential oils and synthetics, do I still need to mix the oils after the wax has cooled down? Is this so as to not denature some of the chemicals in the essential oil?
  19. Is there a way to know which materials won't work in candles?

    I'm putting together a candle fragrance for the first time, and I've read that some synthetics and some naturals aren't great in a candle fragrance.

    Is there a way of knowing whether an...
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    Re: Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

    I know what you mean mumsy, though I don't think that "synthetic smelling" is necessarily bad. The perfume that I ended up with after making [roughly] this accord (whether it is Un Jardin sur le Nil...
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    Re: Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

    BAGreat, can I ask where you found this formula? It's identical to the one in "The Perfect Scent" but in that book Burr states that this isn't the formula for Un Jardin Sur Le Nil (the formula for...
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    Re: Hot pepper scent

    This isn't much help but I smelt Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermes again the other day and to me it has a pronounced 'Chilli flake' note. A quick look at the listed notes for it don't give any clue as to...
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    Re: T'dH vetiver iso

    Use less then, and I can't believe there's no diffusion if you're using a lot of hedione and ISO e super. Try taking down the galaxolide or using a different musk...
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    Re: T'dH vetiver iso

    Depends on your vetiver - they can be extremely smokey and earthy - try using vetiverol or vetiveryl acetate instead...
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    Re: Proportions in a fougere accord?

    Thanks for those formulae Paul. The last one seems to add up to 900, does that mean there's 100 of something missing? Also, what is LRG? Cheers.
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    I'm afraid I haven't had the opportunity to have a go at this yet, so best that you leave me off the list as well...
  27. Re: Any perfumer ever use putrescine or cadaverine in a scent ?

    Interesting they form part of the odour of semen as well - perhaps they went into secretions magnifiques! ;-)

    How well do you think a "Walking Dead" themed candle would sell?

    I like your...
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    Yes, definitely the damascones, also try a touch of beta-Ionone as well. Gives a fruity roundness. And do you have any phenyl ethyl acetate in your accord? That has a rosy/honey sweetness.

    I think...
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    Re: Elderflower accord

    Yes, absolutely. The study on Hyacinth I mentioned earlier did concurrent analyses of flowers harvested at the same time from the same clumps at the same time of day, and even then, the amounts...
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    Re: What Material Causes the Soapy Aroma

    As you can see from the variety in the answers above, there isn't one single ingredient that gives a soapy note. It's always a combination of things, and can arrive quite unexpectedly in a blend. I...
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    Re: Smell of Spring in the air :)

    I've just planted some tuberose bulbs too! I'm not very confident that they'll do so well in the wet London weather, but we'll see... The advice given to me is that the'yre extremely hungry and...
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    Re: Eau de mandarine ambrée

    All great suggestions, as soon as you said happy, smooth and glowing I thought Salicylates. There's some info about salicylates here (though not very comprehensive)
    ...
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    Re: Elderflower accord

    I'm not sure we're looking at the same study Paul. The Jorgenson one that Bill linked to is based on a dynamic headspace taken from elderflower syrup, not elderberry. Yours is definitely the...
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    Re: Elderflower accord

    Thanks Bill, that was about as far as I got as well, but a little more to add...

    Hotrienol (also found in fig, honeysuckle, clary sage etc.) seems especially important as a character-giving...
  35. Re: Geosmin - Looking for Guidance About How to Sell It

    Same for me, I was waiting for my bottle of 1% geosmin to blow my socks off because I remember reading that it's one of the chemicals humans are most sensitive to (5 parts in a trillion?). But when I...
  36. Re: Jasmine flower accord , cis jasmone, methyl jasmonate

    I don't have much experience with cis-Jasmone, each time I try to use it I just get that pronounced celery note (one that I also get from methyl tuberate), even when only adding a tiny amount. David,...
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    Re: So I have this idea...

    i'm thinking woody ambers - norlimbanol, ambercore, ambermax, bois ambrene forte, okoumal. Make it more natural and woody with cedar, cypress, cedrol/cedryl acetate etc. Then heading into tobacco...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    I'm going to have a go at B as well, I've never made anything like that before. What a good challenge!
  39. Thread: Warm Glow?

    by secondfloor
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    Re: Warm Glow?

    Hedione and salicylates - benzyl and amyl
  40. Replies
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    Re: Perfume Making Workshops

    Haha true! But perhaps Chris will be willing to give even more secrets away to paying customers ;-)
  41. Replies
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    Re: Perfume Making Workshops

    I like the idea of a masterclass, but thinking about it, I'm not sure it would be workable or fulfilling for everyone there. I would be interested in a workshop that focused on the subtleties of...
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    Re: Powdery effect

    Arctander also mentions anisyl acetate as one of the classic powdery ingredients along with the ionones, nitromusks and labdanum that David has already mentioned. Also: cinnamic alcohol.

    I...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    The rose oxide in geranium oil adds a lot of powderiness. Also perhaps the soft minty elements menthone and iso-menthone
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    Re: Becoming A Supplier

    From a customer's point of view, instead of some overall "partnership" I would personally prefer to deal directly with Saponier, Graphite, Mumsy or Chris for their respective products. Aside from the...
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    Re: Becoming A Supplier

    The more the merrier in my opinion! Especially if you're focused on unusual things, and vigilant on quality (and you ship to the UK ;-))

    And don't worry about treading on any toes, the competition...
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    Re: Green Cognac Essential Oil

    I was at a launch for Nevermore by Frapin - a masculine rose fragrance, and one of the ingredients was a "wine extract" which he had us smell. It smelled just like green/white cognac extract (vomity,...
  47. Re: iTunesU Interview with Jean Claude Ellena

    Well first of all I don't have access to anything like JCE's resources so any headspace analysis I try to recreate is incomplete. The scent of rose contains over 400 volatiles, most of those in...
  48. Thread: Isolation

    by secondfloor
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    Re: Isolation

    As far as I know, there are several. Fractional distillation, cooling, and selective solvents, Here's a handy video...

    http://youtu.be/dTO_3G7Z88w?
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    Re: Musk feedback requested

    Great diagram. I think something like this is useful as a personal reference guide rather than as a definitive description of the odours of these musks. I find musks so elusive and difficult to pin...
  50. Re: iTunesU Interview with Jean Claude Ellena

    Thanks for posting that. Very interesting. As someone who is playing around trying to create a realistic rose accord from scratch, his comment at the end describing the banality of headspace...
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    Re: UK/EU source of 2-5mL sample bottles

    I like ampulla.co.uk but I don't know if they have exactly what you're looking for
  52. Re: powdery note such as in bvlgari amethyst?

    I haven't smelled Amethyst but I associate violet and iris scents with powderiness. Try the alpha and beta ionones, also some white musks (galaxolide, exaltolide) give a powdery laundry smell. I also...
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    Re: Daphne Scent...

    Thanks Trufflehunter, I spotted that one - I'm always a little hesitant about all-natural formulas, it strikes me as like trying to make a recipe with ingredients that are already finished meals in...
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    Re: Daphne Scent...

    Oh thanks Chris, I hadn't realised Mezereum was so different from Odorata. It would make sense seeing as I couldn't quite account for its headiness from the GC analysis. Good tip on the lemonile, I...
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    Re: Daphne Scent...

    Wow, that's quite a formula, thanks very much, a few surprising things in there - I have most of these, I'll give it a go! Have you made this formula?
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    Re: Dried Human Saliva Scent

    Exactly ;-) reminds me of Luca Turin's description of the appeal of Fougere Royale by Houbigant

    "It does smell of coumarin to be sure, but it is also fresh, clean, austere, almost bitter. This is...
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    Re: Daphne Scent...

    This is very interesting, thanks guys, I'm going to get some B-Ocimene and attempt a blend. I suspect that there are some important chemicals at low concentration that add a particular Daphne "je ne...
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    Re: Elderflower accord

    Hmm, yes I had a look at the goodscents website - but all the primary odour descriptors for elderflower are either natural extracts or unspecified blends. It goes all the way down to the "quinary"...
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    Elderflower accord

    I'm interested in creating an elderflower accord. I got some Elderflower Select CO2 but can barely recognise fresh elderflower in it at all, even when diluted. It has an intensely sweet...
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    Re: Daphne Scent...

    Oh that's interesting about ocimene, I don't need to try to track that down then. Would you say the smell of Daphne is similar to Freesia then? I can't bring it to to mind. So a decent Daphne...
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    Daphne Scent...

    I'd love to have a go at recreating the scent of Daphne (odorata) shrubs that are perfuming the air at this time of year. My blunt nose gets a big gust of Linalool, but beyond that I'm a little...
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    Re: Fragrance Mash Ups

    Yes, I would agree with what's been said here. I can't really see the benefit in mixing two huge complex perfumes like Shalimar and Chanel no.5 for example. But if you have two which have a very...
  63. Re: Any specific fragrances that cause you allergies?

    I get a blazing headache from anything 'aniseedy' or very smokey. Pity because I love smoke.

    I've had a crop of little red dots on my hands from testing fragrances before, but I think my skin can...
  64. Replies
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    Re: Why aren't all perfume ads this sassy?

    Hahaha. That's fantastic! I love it. Though I have to say it doesn't make me feel particularly confident about the fragrance itself...
  65. Re: the most you would pay for a 100ml fragrance

    I don't think I'd go over £120 ($190). I just couldn't bring myself to do it...
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    Re: Sample of the Day - August 2012

    Hi, I'm a n00b to this thread. Do you guys have a pre-decided set of fragrances you're going to review? What is this sample bucket you mention? Are you swapping samples? Can anyone just chime in with...
  67. Re: RAVE (No Rants!): Come on and gush about your latest perfume crush.

    At the moment, I'm cradling my bottle of Trèfle Pur by Atelier Cologne, after a 2 year search for the perfect green scent, I finally found it! It's like that bit in Ratatouille where the critic is...
  68. Re: Do you know any ocean/salty smelling fragrances?

    I've never used a salt scrub, but as far as salty scents go, another thumbs up for Sel Marin. Also I find the aromachemical Ambroxan to have a lovely salty seaside hot skin smell. It has been used as...
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    Re: Help pick Vetiver frag

    I went on a similar quest recently, and it depends on whether you prefer a dark smokey earthy vetiver or a greener citrusy vetiver. Sycomore and Encre Noire are the best examples of the former. They...
  70. Re: Hurry! What scent do wear when you don´t have time to think?

    Sel Marin by Heeley. Mmmmm!http://www.ausliebezumduft.de/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/H/e/Heeley_Sel_Marin_EdP.jpg
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    Re: fragranceX.com

    I bought a heap of Demeter fragrances from them last year. No problems at all to my recollection...
  72. Re: I finally smell the civet in Kouros for the first time after many wears

    It's so strange to me that you smell the civet for the first time after many wearings. It's all I can think about as soon as I sniff Kouros, that "blast of urine" as Miket puts it. I can't...
  73. Fantastic. What a great resource. It's been a...

    Fantastic. What a great resource. It's been a struggle finding synthetics in small quantities in the UK without paying the steep foreign postal costs. I'm delighted Olfactik have filled the niche. I...
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