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  1. Re: Sampaquita accord formula ((Jasmine Sambac)

    Givaudan Sampaquita is much complex. It does contain rose,tuberose notes hint of carnation...IMHO there is no indole and so big amount of Hedione High Cis. There are different green notes than you...
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    2,108

    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    No Chamomile now ?
  3. Replies
    88
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    1,780

    Re: Physicists / chemists wanted

    Essential oils contain many substances ( each of the substance does have his own evaporation curve - responsible for changing odour profile in time ). To make matters worse some substances like...
  4. Replies
    5
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    575

    Re: Pure Ruh Galab (Indian Rose Oil) Samples

    Sample arrived today, thank you very much Christine
    As soon as I unwrapped the package, i smelled a whiff of strong Okoumal note coming from labels :)), but back to rose:
    IMHO Ruh Gulab is very...
  5. Replies
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    3,753

    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    "Orris Butter" , "Orris Concrete" and "Orris Absolute" are different stuffs. They are not the same. Irival, Orivone are also very different.
  6. Replies
    28
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    2,204

    Re: Living Jasmine Accord

    It is not hard to make nice top/head jasmine accord, but i am now working on bottom of my jasmine absolute perfume.
    I have in the base:

    3 Hexyl cinnamic aldehyde
    5 Hedione
    1 Hedione Hi Cis
    0,1...
  7. Replies
    17
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    731

    Re: Hedione vs Hedione high cis

    They are different. High cis version is less floral and more fresh/citrusy. There is different ratio of isomers.
  8. Replies
    50
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    2,108

    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    IMHO it does look fine, maybe add citronellol,phenyl ethyl acetate, trace beta ionone then geranium oil and rose absolute to make the accord even more natural.
  9. Replies
    24
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    1,038

    Re: Can someone identify these ingredients?

    Hi,
    line 8 290 - probably Bergamot
    line 14 20 - Bois de Rose - fits perfectly to this Bergamot/woody/vanilla fragrance
    line 15 4 - castoreum - leather note

    still missing jasmine note...
  10. Replies
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    364

    Siriam (Migros)

    Hi,
    i have bought vintage Siriam perfume and i love the sweet animalic diffusive musk inside. Anyone know what is inside ? I cannot not find any info about this perfume.

    37665
  11. Replies
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    875

    Re: Something about linalool by Philip Kraft

    They does have typo in their table. I have posted comment about it on his blog some weeks ago, but he did not published it.

    Vapor pressure of alpha terpineol is 0,042 not 0,0042. BTW freesia does...
  12. Replies
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    2,108

    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    IMHO the key ingredients in the Dorinia are damascones/damascenones , maybe Rose oxide ...
  13. Replies
    1
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    339

    Solvent extraction of Boswelia

    Hi,
    i have raw Boswelia carterii resin. It is hard to make resinoid using solvent extraction at home ( ethanol as solvent... ) ?

    Milos
  14. Re: Making perfume basics. Fragrance alcohol and water. Any formula?

    Hi,
    i am using 96% ( probably made from molasse ) alcohol denaturated with small amount of bitrex, which does have practically no odour.
    I have just bought also 96% alcohol from local pharmacy...
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    1,200

    Re: Lily of the Valley

    Hi Cybervoltage,
    yes i know about it, but their key accords are more artworks than real reconstructions of the smell ( for example the Gardenia key accord ) and i am trying to do it my own way.
    ...
  16. Replies
    15
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    1,200

    Lily of the Valley

    Hi,
    i have created simple lily of the valley base:

    20 Lyral
    20 Farnesol
    40 Hydroxycitronellal
    5 linalool


    but now i need something fresh/stem/green ( middle/base note ). I have tried...
  17. Replies
    1
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    416

    Sampaquita - substantivity

    Hi,
    i am playing with Sampaquita ( Givaudan ) , but the substantivity is max 2 hours :( I have tried to add musks ( Galaxolide, Habanolide ) and Hedione with little or no effect on substantivity of...
  18. Thread: Civet paste

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    8
    Views
    967

    Civet paste

    Hi,
    please i am looking for small amount of civet paste to make my own civet tincture. Please have you any tip for a source of cheap civet paste ?
  19. Re: Jasmine flower accord , cis jasmone, methyl jasmonate

    OK thank you very much. I have found it very cheaply on perfumersapprentice shop, so i will order it soon.
  20. Jasmine flower accord , cis jasmone, methyl jasmonate

    Hi,
    please how important is cis jasmone and methyl jasmonate in jasmine accords ? I have tried to add upto 4% methyl jasmonate ( which is nearly odourless to my nose ) to my jasmine flower accord....
  21. Thread: Samsara

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    0
    Views
    363

    Samsara

    Hi,
    i am trying to create fragrance similar to Samsara. I have started with heavy dose ( 40% ) of Chris Bartlett Sandalwood blend accord which is exceptionally rich and fine. Then i have added...
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    384

    Oshadhi rose absolute

    Hi ,
    please does anyone use this rose absolute in perfumery ?

    http://www.oshadhi.co.uk/rose-absolute-rosa-damascena/
  23. Replies
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    776

    Re: Irival longevity

    OK now i understand,
    i did it once again with 100% Irival. The strength was strong for about 3 hours, then become weaker and weaker and after 5 hours i dont smell Irival at all. I did small 5min...
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    776

    Re: Irival longevity

    Thanks David,
    BTW the substantivity 40+ is for undiluted stuff ? I am using 1% solution. Maybe 100x0.5hours=50 hours....or i am wrong ? So Irival at recomended concentration ( upto 3% in concetrate...
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    776

    Irival longevity

    Hi,
    i am playing with Irival at 1% strength ( ethanol ) and it is very lovely strong orris note , but after 30-40minutes the smell completely disappear from the strip.I have thought Irival is base...
  26. Thread: Coumarin

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    1
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    331

    Coumarin

    Hi,
    i am playing with chypre accords and i have found my coumarin does have distinctive medicinal/spicy note which i dont like. Maybe i have bad quality coumarin ?
  27. Replies
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    Re: Cold Orris Ideas

    Hi Nizan ,
    try Irival.
  28. Replies
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    404

    Labdanum resinoid in chypre perfume

    Hi ,
    i have old chypre formula which does contain labdanum resinoid. I have only Labdanum ( cistus ) distilled oil ( old wood / ambery odour) and Labdanum absolute (leather/sweet semi-liquid oil )....
  29. Replies
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    3,753

    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    Yes i agree , there is Orris root absolute ( very expensive - clear liquid - my source 50$/ml ), orris butter ( waxy yellow solid - 10$/ml ) , orris resinoid ( brown semi - liquid 5$/ml ). Each of...
  30. Replies
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    3,753

    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    Orris root absolute is used in very low concentrations ~ 0.01% - 0.1% . It does act as modifier / exalting agent. You need to create iris accord ( using alpha, beta, dihydro beta , methyl ionones...
  31. Replies
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    529

    woody floral perfume base

    Hi,
    I don't know if it's a good idea to start creating perfume from base notes only, but here is my simple floral woody perfume base. Maybe it will be usefull for any beginners like me :)

    5...
  32. Replies
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    691

    Re: Mysterious gift in mail?

    From what i know Aramacs sell sandalwood FRAGRANCE/synthetic oil only.
  33. Replies
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    977

    Re: orris root note

    Thanks Paul,
    i know this accord. This is Iris flower accord. Orris note is made here with alpha-isomethyl ionone (i am using gamma), alpha ionone and alpha irone. Maybe i am anosmic to these...
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    1,701

    Re: Hedione and Sandalwood

    Hi Nizan,
    after one year i have found most of aromachemicals i have bought from PerfumersWorld are poor quality. I have lost plenty of money and time ( blending accords ). I dont know if the quality...
  35. Replies
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    orris root note

    Hi,
    i am trying to create sweet orris root note ( towards orivone, orris resinoid ) for my violet perfume. I have tried alpha irone, dihydro ionone beta, methyl ionone gamma, orris givco and...
  36. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    In older formula is often mentioned Oakmoss absolute ( Camilli ). Dominique Camilli of Molinard is perfumer.
  37. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    I dont see any cinnamon note mentioned on fragrantica http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Guerlain/Mitsouko-Eau-de-Parfum-25316.html
  38. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    I dont see any amber note ...
    BTW what does mean Portugal deterpené 10%...?
  39. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    That is probably orris absolute. This is very strong orris note. Orris butter give more floral/waxy note. I have thought 7% of oakmoss is strooong - i am using only 3% in my Mitsouko version. 10% of...
  40. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Renegade do you mean orris absolute or orris butter ? The orris note is made here with methyl ionone ( gamma will be stronger ), but we need to support it with orris butter or orris absolute to make...
  41. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    I am using 3% of methyl iso eugenol. But i have never smelled vintage Mitsouko :(
  42. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Hi,
    i am trying to improve Mitsouko formula posted above. I have replaced Ethyl cinnamate with cinnamic alcohol - IMHO it does fit better in lilac heart and with amber base. I have added...
  43. Thread: Hekserij

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    2
    Views
    351

    Hekserij

    Hi,
    i will be ordering soon from EU version of this shop. I am interested also in their Bergamot FCF EO , but it is available only in the Netherland version of this shop. I have contacted them...
  44. Thread: Muscenone

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    14
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    1,318

    Re: Muscenone

    Here in EU sell Muscenone Hekserij in small amounts.
  45. Thread: Beta ionone

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    13
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    1,116

    Re: Beta ionone

    This could explain why i am not able to prepare nice violet accord :) I cannot get ionones/methyl ionone from Givaudan, so i will try to buy them from Hekserij ... hope the quality will be better.
  46. Thread: Pipettes

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    14
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    958

    Re: Pipettes

    37,96 € for one pipette is too much, the price is for whole package ( 1000pcs )

    Milos
  47. Thread: Beta ionone

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    13
    Views
    1,116

    Re: Beta ionone

    BTW i have beta ionone from perfumersapprentice. It is very strong to me ( biting my nose like fresh horseradish :) )
  48. Thread: Beta ionone

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    13
    Views
    1,116

    Re: Beta ionone

    at 10% dilution:

    alpha ionone ( pure ) - 3 times stronger than alpha irone
    beta ionone - 4 times stronger than alpha ionone

    are you talking about pure alpha ionone or about alpha ionone...
  49. Thread: Beta ionone

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    13
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    1,116

    Re: Beta ionone

    Hi Pears,
    i will try to answer your question, but it is hard to compare them beacuse each ionone smell different and everybody is more or less sensitive to them:

    beta ionone is strongest
    dihydro...
  50. Thread: Lorexon ?

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    3
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    408

    Re: Lorexon ?

    http://www.fragrantica.com/notes/Lorenox-544.html
  51. Replies
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    4,881

    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Hi,
    does anyone know formula of Ambra (Amb 3, comb) ? I guess it is blend of Labdanum + Benzoin + other resinoids + ambroxan/ambergris ?

    Milos
  52. Thread: Beta ionone

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    13
    Views
    1,116

    Re: Beta ionone

    Hi David,
    please what do you mean with quality methyl ionone ( something like methyl ionone gamma 95% ) ?
  53. Thread: Beta ionone

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    13
    Views
    1,116

    Beta ionone

    Hi,
    does anyone know how much beta ionone is used in any good Violet soliflore perfume ? I am trying to create chypre violet soliflore and i have started with 3% beta ionone, but such amount seems...
  54. Replies
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    1,209

    Re: Candle fragrance

    Finnaly i have settled on simple blend of methyl iso eugenol, cinnamic aldehyde, coumarin, small amount of oakmoss ( nice natural sweet/woody/mossy background for spices ) and olibanum.
  55. Replies
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    1,209

    Re: Candle fragrance

    Thanks for the tips !
    hope i will get small amount of orange givco till Christmas :) . I am now playing with fir balsam in this blend ...
  56. Replies
    8
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    1,209

    Candle fragrance

    Hi,
    i am now trying to prepare my first christmas candle fragrance.
    I have just started with cinnamic aldehyde, vanillin, orange oil, clove oil. It is good idea to add ~5% Hedione to improve...
  57. Replies
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    1,589

    Re: Perfumer's World

    Hi ,
    be carefull, quality of aromachemicals from PFW is sometimes bad ( lower purity ).


    Milos
  58. 2,6 nonadienal ( cucumber aldehyde ) in Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - Brechbill

    Hi,
    i am playing with Brechbill chypre formulae in his book http://www.perfumerbook.com/Arranging%20Fine%20Perfume%20Compositions%20-%20The%20Chypre's.pdf . He does use "nonadienal" at 0.01%...
  59. Thread: Centifolether

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    10
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    1,183

    Re: Centifolether

    Hi Chris,
    could you dig the accords please ?
  60. Replies
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    Odour thresholds

    Hi,
    please is there any odour threshold database ? I am looking for odour thresholds of hydroxycitronellal and Lyral.
  61. Thread: Rose accord

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    14
    Views
    1,346

    Re: Rose accord

    Hi,
    i have got small sample directly from chinese company. Their price is 390USD / kg EXW. This is IMHO very good price, but i am not sure about shipping costs and import taxes... Maybe is here any...
  62. Thread: Rose accord

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    14
    Views
    1,346

    Re: Rose accord

    Hi,
    natural PEA just arrived. In comparison to synthetic PEA from PFW is MUUUCH better - sweeter, richer without harsh mettalic-green note. Even my untrained nose smell the difference !!!

    It is...
  63. Thread: Centifolether

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    10
    Views
    1,183

    Centifolether

    Hi,
    please have you any example of rose accord with Centifolether ? It does smell like complete rose top note containing spicy eugenol, fruity damascones and green notes .. is it really only one...
  64. Thread: Rose accord

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    14
    Views
    1,346

    Rose accord

    Hi, am now playing with rose accords, but i am not able to create nice rose base ( probably due bad quality of PEA ? ). My current rose accord does look like this ( i like sweet fresh fruity rose ):...
  65. Replies
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    4,977

    Re: Rose essential oil ?

    Anyone know why rose otto does not smell like real flower ? It is due missing "top notes" - exactly PEA, geranyl acetate, rose oxide and maybe geraniol ?

    Milos
  66. Replies
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    2,040

    Re: Alpha-Irone source?

    Alpha irone act as modifier, it does not smell too much alone. It must be combined with something other to see the effect.
  67. Replies
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    1,408

    Re: Old wood accord

    Nutmeg oil just arrived. It makes the accord much better ( warm aromatic precious old wood note )

    5 vertofix
    4 mahagonate
    1 cedarwood oil virginian
    1 sandalwood EO
    1 nutmeg oil ( maybe...
  68. Replies
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    4,979

    Re: Newbie + Chypre = Adventure

    http://books.google.cz/books?id=RCv2cXUiE_0C&pg=PA244&dq=lilac+1151&hl=cs&sa=X&ei=fuYaVJTVFOO7ygOS3oKgCA&ved=0CB8Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=lilac%201151&f=false
  69. Replies
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    1,408

    Re: Old wood accord

    OK here is my accord:

    5 vertofix
    4 mahagonate
    1 cedarwood oil virginian
    1 sandalwood EO

    i dont have nutmeg oil, but it will be good addition ( i have just smelled nutmegs in our kitchen :)...
  70. Replies
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    4,979

    Re: Newbie + Chypre = Adventure

    No i dont have original perfume to compare. I am sorry i have not tried Lilac accords from his book, but try Lilac, no. 1151
  71. Replies
    13
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    1,408

    Re: Old wood accord

    I have just received Mahagonate... wonderfull tip Paul ! Dank woody sawdust scent with resin nuance, very diffusive. I need to use it in chypre instead of common woody note ( vetiver patchouli...
  72. Replies
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    4,979

    Re: Newbie + Chypre = Adventure

    Thanks for sharing !
    I have tried to create this chypre several times and here is my experience:

    Benzoin Resinoid ( Siam / Sumatra ? ) - I have tried both, Sumatran is IMHO better
    Patchouli - I...
  73. Replies
    27
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    2,265

    Re: Formula for Lily (Lys) Accord ?

    I have just completed Poucher Madonna Lily 1062 and i agree with David. para Cresyl Phenylacetate is one of the key ingredients ( narcotic sweet phenolic note ) . I have skipped Phenylethyl...
  74. Replies
    13
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    1,408

    Re: Old wood accord

    Thanks guys,
    i dont have vertofix / cedryl acetate, but maybe vetiveryl acetate + cedarwood oil + iso e super + little amount of okoumal, sandalwood, patchouli and mahagonate will work .......
  75. Replies
    13
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    1,408

    Old wood accord

    Hi,
    i am looking for old wood accord or hints how to create smell of very old wood furniture.
  76. Thread: Ambreine

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    16
    Views
    1,811

    Re: Ambreine

    Thank you David, this explain why i have not observed exalting or smoothing effect of Civet CNC.Civet CNC does work for me only as fixative adding unpleasant "fecal" note. I have not smelled real...
  77. Thread: Ambreine

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    16
    Views
    1,811

    Re: Ambreine

    Hi,
    i have smelled Ambreine 1 accord after one week of aging and i have found 1% of Civet CNC is too much ! I think Civet CNC is much stronger than real Civet absolute. I guess 0.05-0,1% could be...
  78. Thread: Violet

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    1
    Views
    501

    Violet

    Hi ,
    i have found yesterday a big clump of blooming Viola odorata plant ( due crazy weather this summer they are flowering second time ) . I have picked up some of them to compare with my violet...
  79. Thread: Ambrene 50?

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    13
    Views
    1,737

    Re: Ambrene 50?

    i think Ambrene enhance Ambrarome / Cetalox to create synthetic Ambergris note.
  80. Thread: Ambrene 50?

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    13
    Views
    1,737

    Re: Ambrene 50?

    Thanks,
    that is next ambreine accord in this week, i am wondering there is 20% of bergamot and only 2.5% labdanum. I think you can also try to replace this accord in appel formula with Ambreine 1...
  81. Thread: Ambreine

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    16
    Views
    1,811

    Re: Ambreine

    Thanks,
    i am now preparing it !

    Milos
  82. Replies
    0
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    405

    sandalwood/musk attar

    Can you please advise what musk i should use to support sandalwood in simple attar ?

    I am now trying these musks .
    Ambrettolide
    Musk ketone
    Cosmone
    Deer musk - syntehtic from Arcadi ( auram )...
  83. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Thanks Chris,
    i love chypre perfumes, so i have created ( with modification ) the Mitsouko perfume you have posted. This is my first perfume which really smell good. I have lowered patchouli to...
  84. Replies
    43
    Views
    2,460

    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    Hi ,
    buy jasmine absolute replacement :
    Sampaquita:
    http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-5967-sampaquita-g-jasmine-sambac.aspx?keyword=sampaquita

    I have just ordered this jasmine replacement...
  85. Thread: Violet No.2

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    3
    Views
    626

    Violet No.2

    Hi,
    i am trying to prepare Violet No.2 , but i think there is typo:...
  86. Thread: Cinnamylal

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    3
    Views
    484

    Re: Cinnamylal

    Thanks !
  87. Replies
    2
    Views
    576

    Peru balsam tincture

    please have you any idea how to replace IFRA restricted peru balsam tincture ?
  88. Thread: Cinnamylal

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    3
    Views
    484

    Cinnamylal

    Hi,
    please what is Cinnamylal in this Violet formula:...
  89. Thread: Sweet ionone

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    5
    Views
    677

    Re: Sweet ionone

    OK now i understand :) thanks
  90. Thread: Sweet ionone

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    5
    Views
    677

    Sweet ionone

    Hi,
    please what is the sweetest ionone ? From i have here - alpha, beta and methyl ionone 70%,methyl ionone 90% and dihydro beta ionone is the methyl ionone 70% the sweetest one.
  91. Replies
    14
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    748

    Re: Input on making a green floral scent?

    try something like this - i have not smelled it yet:

    Lyral : 3.00
    Hedione : 10.00
    Iso E Super : 10.00
    Galaxolide : 10.00
    Methyl Ionone, alpha-iso- : 10.00
    Linalool/rosewood : 5.00
    Amyl...
  92. Replies
    14
    Views
    748

    Re: Input on making a green floral scent?

    Lyral for example
  93. Thread: Orris resinoid

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    0
    Views
    289

    Orris resinoid

    Hi,
    i am looking for content analysis of Orris resinoid.
  94. Thread: Alpha irone

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    5
    Views
    791

    Alpha irone

    Hi,
    i have just received alpha irone from PerfumersWorld, but i am little puzzled with the smell. The smell is weak ( my Orris butter with 3% irones is much stronger ) reminiscent dry alpha methyl...
  95. Re: Methyl heptine carbonate methyl octine carbonate

    Please how much Undecavertol can i use to replace 0.5% M.H.C. ?
    IFF Methyl Octine Carbonate Replacer 0912 is very hard to get like Parmone which i cannot find anywhere.
  96. Re: Methyl heptine carbonate methyl octine carbonate

    Thanks David they probably forget to add dilution ( 5% of 10%M.H.C. sound much better )
  97. Methyl heptine carbonate methyl octine carbonate

    Hi,
    i need to replace M.H.C.( 5% in formula ) with M.O.C. in one old formula , but i have no clue how strong is M.H.C in comparison to M.O.C.
  98. Thread: Jasmin 50

    by Milhaus
    Replies
    13
    Views
    1,212

    Re: Jasmin 50

    Thanks,
    i have checked Bois de Iles formula and i have nearly everything except true sandalwood EO ( 14% sounds pretty much, also with vetiveryl acetate at the same concentration ). I will try to...
  99. Replies
    35
    Views
    5,257

    Re: home made Molecule 01

    Hi,
    i have just compared Timbersilk with ISO E super... Timbersilk is IMHO strong harsh woody note piercing my nose and i dont like it in higher concentrations( >1%). ISO E super is nice...
  100. Replies
    28
    Views
    2,204

    Re: Living Jasmine Accord

    Hi,
    PerfumersWorld supply linalool( linalool with citrus and woody notes ) and linalool synthetic ( pure linalool smell ) and they have also Ho oil ( but i afraid the camphor note will kill the...
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