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  1. Replies
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    Re: Best of the ambroxans?

    ambrox super are as ambroxan but more "dry" (and a little bit more ambergris) and little more strong...
    cetalox are as ambroxan but little more "musky" and sweet.....
    slight difference, but...
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    Re: Verdox replacement

    In Europe, i buy Verdox here
    https://www.hekserij.nl/shop/parfum-geur/geurstoffen/verdox-iff/
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    Re: What is a Velvet accord?

    """"is it like a ambery "smooth" like note? Or is it more woody in your opinion?""""

    at middle range...

    """P.S. Buona quarantena!"""

    grazie, qui in Emilia sta picchiando duro e in Lombardia...
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    Re: What is a Velvet accord?

    Very very subjective....but Iso E Super (a woody/amber aroma chemical) is described as a "velvety" note....in my mind, velvet accord have Iso e super, habanolide, meijiff/majol, patchouli/clearwood...
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    Re: How do you access the GCA page on TGSC?

    Good work Big L, but i dont see davana gc in that list, is here...
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/gca/gc1024001.html
  6. Thread: Orivone vs Irival

    by Geco
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    Re: Orivone vs Irival

    irival contains cedar note also,and other. Iris nitrile are very strong a.c., fatty/oily, with a cucumber nuance. Orivone are a beautiful rooty note. I like orivone, more than Iris nitrile (i use...
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    Re: Instant odor fatigue with Kephalis

    Yes, kephalis are one of more beautiful woody a.c. ...less airy and darker and deeper than I.E.S..... compared to cedar and sandalwood, .more "oak-sounding", old wood/mobile,...i used it dilute at...
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    Re: b-damascone a-damascone

    Yes, for example, i dilute a-damascone at 1 : 100 ethan.
  9. Replies
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    Re: b-damascone a-damascone

    edit
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    Re: Exaltone v. Exaltolide

    Yes
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    Re: Vanilla absolute accord

    amateurperfumer, good formula......but if you buy an excellent Vanilla Bourbon Madagascar Absolute, you realize what a wonderful sweet/bitter dark depth.....
  12. Re: Ideas for Natural Materials that Mimic or Replace Synthetics?

    it' a problem, very difficult....no cedar atlanta for IES,no jasmine for hedione, ...only for some oils this is possible...for ex, vanilla for vanilline, patchouli for clearwood, cinnamon bark for...
  13. Thread: Piss in drydown

    by Geco
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    Re: Piss in drydown

    To my nose,myrrh are wonderful and not "pissy", ...civet,is possible...
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    Re: Do You Want to Play a (Perfumers') Game?

    SubUmbra,
    if i understand game, it will be like this :

    1) "HY guys, this month we create a woody (or floral, or fruity,or sweet,etc.etc.) formula with:
    --a wood oil or substitute a.c....
  15. Replies
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    Re: Do You Want to Play a (Perfumers') Game?

    Yes, 30 minutes are too few... in perfumery, good things and haste don't get along....to save money (it takes a lot of tests) it is better to dilute the composition, maybe 10/15% ....my 2 cents...
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    Re: davana accord ;years of struggle

    8 years after (and after dozens of tests thrown away), finally a davana accord nearest (80/90%) to a good davana E.O....i'm pleased.
    My gift for you (simplified formula,but add few drops...
  17. Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Actually, i work at 2 perfumes: one coromandel-type,but not a "copy",are less "vintage-like". It seems me very pleasant.
    The other, a light abstract-floreal, hedione-splendione based with a light...
  18. Replies
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    Re: IFRA 49th amendment

    Yes, 6x downgrade of concentration for anis-aldh are too much, and 5x down for benz benzoate also. For some flowers there's a problem...and benz banzoate are very usable in many type of perfume: are...
  19. Replies
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    Re: IFRA 49th amendment

    first comment....there's noticeable downgrade,it's a problem for 5x downgrade of benz benzoate,a very versatile molecule...cry also for stawb furan and rasp keton....but there's interesting upgrade:...
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    IFRA 49th amendment

    Many news,restrictions and prohibitions and some "upgrades"
    For ex.:

    BENZIL BENZOATE - move down from 26% to 4,8% max. (!! bad)

    CASHMERAN - move down from 5,4% to 3,8% max.
    ...
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    Re: "Largest Rose Bush (Tree) in the World"

    wow, very beautiful!
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    Re: Ethylene brassylate, Aurantiol...and?

    NarcisoM said: """What else would you recommend to add as a heart note? I just want one or two ingredients so I can detect every element and their performance.""""

    a salicylates (benzyl or cis 3...
  23. Thread: tuberose and iris

    by Geco
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    2,638

    Re: tuberose and iris

    Yes, i'm agree , in Carnal Flower i smell a Firmenich Tubereuse ....and in that base, i smell a nuances similar at davana oil....
  24. Thread: IFRA question

    by Geco
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    Re: IFRA question

    it must not be more than 5,3% of the total content of the bottle...
  25. Re: What does Jasmine, Champaca, and Orange Flower have in common?

    ""nostalgic aroma"": certainly, indole (old handbags nuence,etc.)...in second position methyl benzoate (tire shop nuance,etc.)...
  26. Thread: tuberose and iris

    by Geco
    Replies
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    2,638

    Re: tuberose and iris

    ""And when what you really want in that beautiful flower are the amazing topnotes, the absolute is not going to get you here.""
    I'm agree, near my home i have 2 osmanthus bushes (var. osmanthus...
  27. What are the 3 most beautiful captives released in recent years?

    I start:

    Clearwood
    Splendione
    Symroxane (or hivernal neo? i'm in doubt...)

    and in your experience?
  28. Re: IFF Captive, until now, available to us at PSH! (Edenolide)

    I too am a little suspicious of abc, for the exaggerated use of super adjectives about molecules.
    And there will also be the normal motivations of a producer, perhaps.
    But he's a connoisseur of...
  29. Re: Lyral Replacer formula - Let's talk about our choices and formulas

    perhaps, even a trace of splendione can help?
  30. Re: Lyral Replacer formula - Let's talk about our choices and formulas

    ah lyral, very very good, without substitutes, like many other (musk ketone , etc.) ... years ago I tried to replace it,...many attempts, but I was only gone close, not easy, then I left ... I used...
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    Re: How to use Cashmeran?

    combining it with nuances that you feel in the cashmeran; for ex., with a.c. that have apple nuances, with a.c. that have moldy/earthy nuances (with attention), etc.etc.etc....
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    Re: Insights on LIDGE structure

    ---something of anisic/balsamic (anetole?eucaliptol?toscanol?etc. etc.) ;
    --- something of patchouli/clearwood and similar (piconia etc.) and something woodiest (kephalis,sandal type,...
  33. Re: sandalwood - different synthetic sandalwoods and why you should combine them together

    good formula, ...I find it essential a small addition of vetiver or vetiveril acetate, for that touch of hazelnut typical of the best mysore oil...I also use a touch of kephalis to strengthen general...
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    Re: Looking for Oud like sweetness

    Thank you. Yes, he had a part of that kind of sweetness, but its best part was wood / forest / bark, incredibly good, magic...
  35. Replies
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    Re: Looking for Oud like sweetness

    there are many many molecular differences in oud natural oils......but, best oud oil i've ever smelled (only 3 experience with different natural oud oils, too much money...;-), it had a...
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    Re: right formula sheet and dosages

    I do not use electronic sheets because I am not capable ..
    But I do a complete step of the perfume, ....
    Then, if something is too much or if something is missing, I double the round with the...
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    Re: A most dry/dried musk at low volatility?

    Thank you all
  38. Replies
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    Which oil (and aromachem etc.) is "solemn"?

    Mysore Oil, frankincense,jasmine....and then?
    And aromachem?
  39. Replies
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    Re: A most dry/dried musk at low volatility?

    Cetalox, for ex., are beautiful and very similar at ambrox sup, but at low volatility and a bit more fatty/oily...
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    Re: A most dry/dried musk at low volatility?

    yes,it's true (0,29 vp), but it is a functional equivalent
  41. Replies
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    A most dry/dried musk at low volatility?

    For my nose, probably, ambrox super.
    All the other musks,to my nose, have an oily/fatty aspect.
    Other materials at low volatility (for ex. vertofix, 0,00008 v.p.), are dry and not fatty nuances,...
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    Re: Cucumber and Vetiver ?

    """ Originally Posted by parker25mv View Post
    Another question: What would be a good base note to a cucumber based fragrance?
    Anyone have some ideas?
    I'm having some real difficulty thinking up...
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    Re: Tauerade / Irone Alpha

    To my nose, alpha irone aren't weak as IES, but very strong , diluted at 5% in ethanol 96°..
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    Re: Tauerade / Irone Alpha

    I have both: alpha irone are near ionones but more refined, iris beurre charabot 8% are a very good reco of real iris...two different things...orivone are a root scent part, alpha irone are a floral...
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    Re: Tauerade / Irone Alpha

    edit
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    Re: best quality synthetic sandalwood?

    not any ac, but some they are coming closer : ebanol, for example..
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    Re: Coffee and Tobacco accord.

    Also, a touch of maple lactone...
  48. Re: Filbertone and florex, any experience with these materials?

    Does anyone know the reason why firmenich stopped producing florex? Commercial or health?
  49. Thread: Pine Note

    by Geco
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    10,450

    Re: Pine Note

    A touch of sarriette base, also...? To my nose,very good and more forest/cortex/piney and less sweet/balsamic/incense in respect at fir balsam oliffac (however, fir bals is a good base)..
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    """geco - ...and a very little touch of birch tar....
    parker25mv - I'm not sure about that.That's some very potent stuff. I presume you're talking about wanting a little darkness and smokiness?"""
    ...
  51. Replies
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    ..a touch of kephalis, to my nose, are precious...and a very little touch of birch tar....
  52. Replies
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    Re: Looking for non musk/woody amber base note ideas

    .....a Mellis accord (a modern version...)....
  53. Re: Nooby: Greenish Home-Frag/Roomspray attempt with limited ACs

    I find octacetal, also, it useful for some green accord...
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    Re: Robertet Reconstitutions

    For my taste, Charabot reco iris beurre 8% are very beautiful...
  55. Re: Free Florals EBOOK from Perfumer & Flavorist, it's really great information, GET IT!

    Thank you Paul, very good!
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    Re: Formula: A Nod to Égoïste

    Thank you jamie, good formula!
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    Re: Perfumerslab.com -- Small beginnings

    Beautiful work, Jhl!
  58. Thread: Taking my leave

    by Geco
    Replies
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    4,930

    Re: Taking my leave

    I, as an abstract desire, wanted Paul to remain.
    And also Matt, stopping going to do "relativist perfumery",simplifying.
    But I realize that in reality things are not easy to obtain ...
    Indeed,...
  59. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    many different problems raised....uhmmm....let's try:

    OPINIONS/EXPERIENCE : it is true that every opinion is one and is subjective, But opinions are weighed. They have a different specific weight....
  60. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    Uhmm....i do not know this company, but, if it is true that they encourage the use of "oil fragrances" or "fragrance" without other specifications, this isn't a real help for perfumery learning....
  61. Thread: Ophira 50 Accord

    by Geco
    Replies
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    1,441

    Re: Ophira 50 Accord

    For example, here are some mellis versions and suggestions :

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/386097-Mellis-Accord

    In respect of these, for my taste, i beat down eugenol percentage , replace ...
  62. Thread: Ophira 50 Accord

    by Geco
    Replies
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    1,441

    Re: Ophira 50 Accord

    If you want to study an accord very beautiful and with many many possibility, study in deep Mellis accord...
  63. Replies
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    Re: A Couple of Questions on an Amber Accord

    RamiMatar,
    build this core accord:
    1 part cistus
    2 parts ethyl vanillin
    2 parts patchouli
    4 parts benzoin
    4 parts of honey and/or beeswax
    4 parts of bergamot

    let them rest 1/2 days,...
  64. Replies
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    Re: Something similar to Spikenard / Liquorice?

    Myrrh
  65. Replies
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    Re: Infamous benzyl benzoate to the rescue

    Yes, BB it softens the head...have a light sweet nuance similar to benzoin, also...
  66. Replies
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    Re: Blenders in Aventus

    i write "a drop" as "a little bit", not exactly "one drop".....i think ,for this formula, a value around 0,5-1% ( in weight, as usual) is good...maybe, removing a part of allyl amyl glicolate and...
  67. Replies
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    Re: Blenders in Aventus

    octacetal it's a cheerful and clear green potpourri note (but not "sparkling" or aldehydic), with slight citrus and weak floral/ozonic nuances.....
    For percent,uhmmm...something between 0,5 and 1%...
  68. Replies
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    Re: Blenders in Aventus

    Very good, tuscaloosa !...try to add also 1 drop of octacetal in head, you will feel that cheerfulness..
  69. Replies
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    Terranol (or 2-ethyl fenchol)
    Velvione
    Raspberry ketone
    Alpha irone
    Vertenex
    C16 aldheyde
    Santaliff
    A good amber base (Amber 83 or similar)
    Cyclamen aldheyde
    etc.etc.
  70. Replies
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    Re: Understanding the ppm ifra limitation

    ppm are for food/beverage ...
  71. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    Many many causes of variation:
    ---yes, new/modern ingredients..
    ---.yes, limitations for many natural oils (oakmoss,etc.etc.)...
    ---yes, people's taste changhe in years( for ex: songs are changed...
  72. Thread: Loss of smell

    by Geco
    Replies
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    2,687

    Re: Loss of smell

    Time and little contributions of zinc if necessary.... and smell in air current between windows, smell in high altitude ( have you hills or mountains near home?), smell in open air, smell in the...
  73. Replies
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    Re: What vital materials am I missing?

    yes, salicylates and greens and a bit of earthy....(i dont read ambroxan and/or cetalox and/or ambrox...possible?)....
  74. Thread: Grojsman Accord

    by Geco
    Replies
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    38,061

    Re: Grojsman Accord

    pierpaolo72 said:
    ""Shame on me for I don't either have madranol ...""

    Shame!:laugh:

    ...uhmm....vertenex,a little touch? But are less "nobile" ingredients...
  75. Thread: Grojsman Accord

    by Geco
    Replies
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    38,061

    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Thank you Bill, Matt and Pierpaolo.
    For Pierpaolo: uhmmm....physeol/boisiris similar (wood-ionones/violet)? Madranol , for example,1 or 2 drop,as you like...(physeol/boisiris have more beautiful...
  76. Thread: Grojsman Accord

    by Geco
    Replies
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    38,061

    Re: Grojsman Accord

    For my taste, Grojsman accord are a bit "mainstream", good but a bit "hairdresser's lacquer".
    I prefer variants.
    Here is one I built trying to keep the underlying scent orientation of Grojsman...
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    Re: A good description of iso e super?

    For my taste, a cedarwood tone (more Virginia than Atlantis) with a peaty/tobacco brillant transparency
  78. Replies
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    Re: Quince accord question for you

    i forgot...a little touch of davana, also...
  79. Thread: Smells Like Money

    by Geco
    Replies
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    4,935

    Re: Smells Like Money

    Heritage Guerlain
  80. Replies
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    Re: Quince accord question for you

    cashmeran, ethyl safranate...
  81. Thread: Veramoss

    by Geco
    Replies
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    6,879

    Re: Veramoss

    I dilute mine at 1% and have a strong scent....for my taste ,it should be used in very low doses , because has some aspects of true oakmoss,yes, but it has a faecal-synthetic nuance that must be...
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    Re: why is your favorite, your favorite?

    M7 V1, because.... it's the best :laugh:
  83. Re: Anyone have personal experience with these materials?

    I also appreciate the para methoxy cinnamaldehyde, in small doses, to give light sweet-fruity nuances ...
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    A good myrrh reco?

    For my taste, myrrh are a wonderful ingredient.
    As well as oud, a single drop of e.o. of myrrh in a composition, add deep and a misterious/exotic nuance.
    In your use experience, what is a good one...
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    Re: Santos de Cartier 1981 men's EdT scent

    I liked it, I dont study it, but i remember a big nuances of black pepper and creamy sandalwood....
  86. Replies
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    Re: I need a Fruitchouli type perfume GC to study

    I dont know this fragrance type and dont have gc, but with a speed search, i think "Midnight rain la prairie for woman" are a good scent-inspiration for work.....
    my two cents....
  87. Re: LINK: The Odor Value Conceptin the Formal Analysis Olfactory Art

    Good Matt!
    :thumbsup:
  88. Replies
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    Re: useful tips on powder dilution

    it takes a warmer room or you have to wait for spring .... or lower the dilution, but the scent feels less ... or change the solvent if it is convenient (dpg, benzyl benzoate, etc.) depending on the...
  89. Poll: Re: Which 1 of these 6 website is your favorite to buy essential oils from?

    This poll is mostly for Usa, in Europe we have others shop...
  90. Replies
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    "Today I gift my fragrance formula!"

    I start with a little formula (my) .
    A simply sandalwood accord with a Mysore nuances:

    16 sandela 10%
    12 santaliff 10%
    3 ebanol 5%
    1 vetiveril acetate 10%

    and your gift formula?
    :
  91. Replies
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    Re: useful tips on powder dilution

    an advice on cetalox:
    I diluted it to 10% but below 20-22 degrees Celsius of room temperature, formed some crystals. Then I diluted to 5% and now it no longer crystals.I use it at 5%, but certainly...
  92. Replies
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    Re: advice on my next order

    i have tobacco absolute and Tobacarol also. Tobcarol it only takes one aspect, the dry one.
    But the sweet roundness of the tobacco is missing. For my taste,It is an ingredient to give light nuances...
  93. Re: which labels and odors of functional products studied?

    thank you all. Soap, also, are an interesting world. Also, the fragrances of article for home like Yankee Candles and similar, Lampe Berger (many of this brand are good, for my taste) and similar,...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Critique My Deluxe Sandalwood Accord

    I dont know this base...in my base, for nutty touch, i use also a drop of vetiveryl acetate..
  95. which labels and odors of functional products studied?

    when I go to the supermarkets or the cosmetics / cleaning shops, I smell the good shower gel (with curious taste,ex orris/apple, almond/argan, patchouly/ylang/lavender, Palmolive and others) , the...
  96. Replies
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    Re: advice on my next order

    Agree with needaname. I add only ,
    -- z11 : difficult to understand, Perhaps, the value is in the function,not in scent..
    -- Cedroxide: drydown very very dry-pencil....
    ---Tobacarol: to my nose,...
  97. Replies
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    Re: What material for a "sexy" female accord?

    Thea , I appreciated the arrangement suggested by bagreat, not all "Alien" fragrance...personally, on a woman I find "sexy" everything with good patchouli (many Reminescence, for example, not a...
  98. Thread: Alien

    by Geco
    Replies
    10
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    1,499

    Re: Alien

    yes, in 2017 I made a bottle approximately based on that gc, but modifying them with additions, to give a gift to a niece (for university degree) ,but with some modifications (i add a drops of oud...
  99. Thread: Alien

    by Geco
    Replies
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    1,499

    Re: Alien

    Thank you mr. Mystèrieux
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    Re: What is cis-3 and widely used cis-3

    The most important, cis-3-hexenol, are a green/grass notes, another is cis-3 -hexenyl salicylate, a floral notes, but there are many others "cis-3"...
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