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  1. Re: Guy Robert (amouage gold & crystal) spea`ks!

    And what a glorious beast Amouage Gold used to be. The Robert era was the golden age of this house, truly.

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  2. Re: Guy Robert (amouage gold & crystal) spea`ks!

  3. Re: Guy Robert (amouage gold & crystal) spea`ks!

    I missed this first time around. Thanks for reviving it.

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  4. Replies

    Re: Parfums de cuir - Osmotheque lecture

    Thanks for the report. Makes we want to jump on a train to Versailles.
  5. Re: What's definitely masculine is.. grossness?

    Well put. Just compare real Oud as prized in the Arab world with its synthetic / domesticated Western counterpart.

    As to cultural history there have been times when women were supposed to smell...
  6. Replies

    Re: Ethical Hypothetical

    Wouldn't be that hard to find a reasonable convergence. A sealed original bottle of Cuir de Russie or Coty Chypre? 1920s Shalimar Essence from the Guerlain vaults?
  7. Re: Domenico Caraceni this classed as niche ?

    To me this qualified as niche. It was produed by the small, now defunct, outfit Forester in Milano, who also made Czech and Speake and Washington Tremlett, both of which I'd consider niche as well....
  8. Re: Why are Perfumes and Colognes so popular?

    Well, I'm certainly no friend of the industry part of the perfume industry, and some isolated points, e.g. about an ideologized obsession with hygiene in US culture, are pertinent. Most of the...
  9. Replies

    Re: Shalimar - can a man get away with it?

    I wear the Extrait. It certainly has more balls than dior homme...
  10. Re: Why do companies "admit" reformulations by changing the packaging/bottle?

    "Niche" is just a marketing option. It says pretty much nothing about the quality or cost of what's in the bottle. While it will frequently be somewhat higher than for designer or drugstore products,...
  11. Replies

    Re: Where are all the Vintage Creed bottles?

    When I wrote that fateful blogpost years ago on Creed and Farina and the uses of history I was contrasting two small players with limited means who used their history as an essential marketing...
  12. Re: Need your Opinion- Should I Offer Robertet Naturals for Presale Perfumer Supply House

    Interested in a sample set, as well as 60g of cedar, elemi and guaiac.
  13. Re: Photograph- Harrods perfume counter, 1908

    Well, in the course of the 19th century our contemporary conception of hygiene evolved and the middle classes began to wash and bathe on a regular basis - concomitantly the modern bathroom evolves...
  14. Re: Photograph- Harrods perfume counter, 1908

    And you never will. Creed started doing perfume around 1975. They were tailors before that and you would have found their London store at Conduit Street in 1908.
  15. Re: Photograph- Harrods perfume counter, 1908

    Absolutely not, only harlots would do that. Textiles were carefully sprayed, though, dresses and undergarments, but always with an eye to light sillage. "Otherwise you stand to being convicted of...
  16. Re: A fragrance that could ease, comfort in sorrow and pain

    Scent perception is obviously very personal, but lavender is a clinically proven relaxant and there's a reason all religions use some form of incense. I would always tend to go for natural perfumes...
  17. Re: Strange limited Guerlain Habit Rouge - Does anybody know more about this?

    Pre-INCI declaration would suggest the bottle is pre-1997, no?

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  18. Replies

    Re: Most overrated fragrance on Basenotes?

    All that fuddyduddy old people perfume for smelly old French people. Axe Body spray is all you need, dude, it get's me laid.
  19. Re: Photograph- Harrods perfume counter, 1908

    Ah, but it was not yet worn on skin then. I believe that is a post WWI phenomenon, when women became "loose" ;).

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  20. Replies

    Re: Perfume History..Help

    Annick Le Guérer, Scent, a good general introduction to scent
    Alain Corbin, The Foul and the Fragrant. Odor and the French Social Imagination, a pathbreaking study that will help you to...
  21. Replies

    Re: Greek island!

    Great thread. I spent some of the best thyme of my life ;-) on Ikaria two years ago. The scent of herbs (some of them autochtonous) and ocean was pure magic. I brought that scent home in local...
  22. Replies

    Re: Perfume: The Story of a Murderer

    The film passes as decent entertainment, but it lacks the philosophical intricacy of the novel ,which embraces, in beautiful prose no less, fundmental questions about Enlightenment philosophy and...
  23. Re: Roja Parfums Vetiver Extrait vs Creed Vetiver 1948

    IMO Creed has yet to produce a vetiver perfume, rather than one simply bearing that word in its name.
  24. Replies

    Re: Bleu De Chanel

    Bleu de Chanel - the smell of consumer capitalism. Yummy!

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  25. Re: Is Abercombie & Fitch Fierce going to be considered a classic?

    For the US of that period it is definitely a classic, and that tells you a lot about the US of that period.
  26. Re: Oliver & Erwin Creed vs Jean Claude Ellena Hermes Budget

    Creed would simply hire Bourdon. It's not like they are REALLY trained perfumers. More creative directors like M. Lutens or Kilian Hennessy. And if Bourdon had unlimited funds I assume you would get...
  27. Replies

    Re: Best oud for under $250

    Not locally available but you can order samples: La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan No. 2 or 3. Natural alcohol-based perfume, strong oud, affordable. edit: forget it, out of your price range. Just get...
  28. Replies

    Re: Is Amouage Finished?

    Like many a niche house Amouage went from the true exclusive luxury of its beginnings (really costly ingredients and formulations not made to please everyone) to a huge diversified (and creatively...
  29. Replies

    Re: Oud invasion of US high end malls

    I think the industry has simply found a convenient and sufficiently exotic label to stick upon their new generic-synthetic wood base, which, as correctly noted, is supposed to offer a trendy...
  30. Replies

    Re: Molecule 01

    Those are a German and a French line. Why exactly should they be cheaper in the US, if the have to be imported?
  31. Re: Aromatic Citrus or Fougere Fragrance Suggestion

    Goutal's Eau du Sud is a beautiful traditional aromatic citrus with a chypre base
  32. Replies

    Re: Grey Flannel - Why the dislike?

    Really, they should have issued that flanker: Fifty Shades of Grey Flannel and made a million. GF reminds me of the cheap synthetic violet oil from Pier 1 Imports I had as a kid in the 70s - just...
  33. Re: how to preserve a vintage splah bottle?

    If we are talking costly rare vintage I would suggest what they do at Osmothèque. Decant a small amount for use, cover the juice in the flacon with protective gas. You can get this for preserving...
  34. Re: 5 specific scent fragrances every man should own

    Real Man :rolleyes:

    1. Leather: Knize Ten
    2. Oud: Oud Caravan No. 3
    3. Incense: Norma Kamali Incense
    4. Tobacco: Tabarôme Private Collection
    5. Citrus: Acqua di Parma Colonia
    Fresh: Eau...
  35. Replies

    Re: Cuir Ottoman - Female or Unisex??

    It's a butch feminine :D.
    Really now, why would you care about labels, just wear the stuff, if it feels right and don't, if it don't.
  36. Replies

    Re: What happened to Katie?

    She has a show on BBC6, wouldn't you know?!
  37. Replies

    Re: So... leather isnt really leather

    Leather can
    1. either refer to the smell of treated leather using
    a .actual substances also used to treat leather (birch tar), or
    b. chemicals such as isobutyl quinoline
    2. or refer to...
  38. Re: What are some scents you ONLY wear for others?

    I think the question frames the issue the wrong way :). You never wear a fragrance for yourself or others exclusively because it is an intersubjective act. If you wear something on behalf of others...
  39. Replies

    Re: CREED Is The Best?

    Fixed that for you :D

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  40. Replies

    Re: CREED Is The Best?

    yes indeed. thanks.

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  41. Replies

    Re: CREED Is The Best?

    Well, the vast majority of perfumes are simply slightly tweaked prefab formulas from the 4 aromachemical giants that control the market. This applies to many so:called niche brands as well. Creed...
  42. Replies

    Re: CREED Is The Best?

    MI - generic melon aquatic
    OV - Mugler Cologne
    OSantal - Joop homme
    OSpice - Kouros
    Wood & Spice - qed

    They have consciously been playing off generic designer frag patterns since the mid 80s....
  43. Replies

    Re: My personal opinion on Guerlain

    "Guerlain used to be a great - the greatest - house" sums it up. Of course, this not a singular instance. The Golden Age of classical perfumery petered out in the 90s. Perfume as art now primarily...
  44. Replies

    Re: CREED Is The Best?

    Proposition: Creed's particular success among a certain consumer milieu is based on the the fact that they offer enhanced male designer scents (standard formulations with little sophistication and...
  45. Thread: Tutti

    by the_good_life

    Re: Tutti

    The company is Corania
  46. Replies

    Re: SOTD Wednesday 11th February 2015

    I was intrigued by the raves on and bought 20 mls in a split. It is very complex and sophisticated, but without a cheap oud note, cashmeran or iso, that "fuzzy woody lukewarm" vibe you...
  47. Replies

    Re: Petition to ban acronyms

    Of course it would not be difficult to make a case for email, texting and twittering as the epitome of Western cultural anemia - the Boss Bottled of language. I know they have been used artfully (the...
  48. Replies

    Re: Interview with Erwin Creed.

    If I ever get to interview Erwin Creed, it will make Guantanamo Bay look like an excercise in observing human rights.

    "Now, Erwin, before I extract your complete toenail, HOW old is Royal English...
  49. Replies

    Re: CREED Is The Best?

    Anybody who wants to understand the majority of Creed threads on BN just needs to read some de Tocqueville and Thorstein Veblen. I'm pretty sure Olivier Creed has :D.
  50. Re: A shocking fact : Creed is completely unknown in France's perfume shops

    For clarification:

    1.Creed does not currently hold any royal warrants anywhere. They are all of the past, in fact, none I have seen is more recent than the 19th century. I believe the British...
  51. Re: A shocking fact : Creed is completely unknown in France's perfume shops

    The history and lineage is fake as relates to perfume. The fragrance house dates from 1975. There's really no reason to know Creed if you're not a perfumista. While every French person will recognize...
  52. Re: Contradictions between SOTD and financial positions

    If everyone thought like you, where would America be? This great country was built on deficit spending (plus slavery and killing Indians :D)
  53. Re: Contradictions between SOTD and financial positions

    If you were wearing vintage L'Heure Bleue I'd say that's the true Dandy Spirit (of course it helps to remember under what circumstances Brummel died). But Aventus? Olivier Creed is laughing all the...
  54. Re: Duke of Windsor with a vintage CREED bottle?

    Yeah, ideologically he was a total dickhead, but nonetheless he's a style icon and one of the key influences on classical menswear in the 20th century. Style, genius etc. in no way make you a decent...
  55. Replies

    Re: Will Lavendar Rob Your Manhood

    Sex Panther
  56. Re: Ephemera: Geza Schoen + Kode9 + Ben Frost + Tim Hecker

    The percpetion of the frags (and the accompanying soundscapes/video) is at least as interesting as the project. It certainly shows from what distinct angles perfume as a concept can be viewed and...
  57. Replies

    Re: Today I bought: February 2015

    1939 sealed pure perfume flacon of Millot's Crêpe de Chine. Very dark juice, but no evaporation, boxed and with a centennial sticker (celebrating 100 years of F. Millot, 1839-1939). It's one of the...
  58. Replies

    Re: Best 'Eau de Cologne'?

    Hard to settle on three.
    1. Villoresi
    2. Eau d'Orange verte (vintage only)
    3. Acqua di Parma

    However, if I had a fully intact version of 1950s Johann Maria Farina, that would be up there, too....
  59. Replies

    Re: Aberdeen Lavender?

    I personally found it horrible, a castrato version of the ballsy Royal Scottisch Lavender. Actually, Woods of Windsor does this style better for 10 quid. And by the way, Mr. Creed, it's 500 bloody...
  60. Re: Duke of Windsor with a vintage CREED bottle?

    No, not a Creed bottle. Creed was launched in 1975 as a perfume house. Their historical references to perfumery are figments of marketing imagination. The Duke of Windsor may have had some clothes by...
  61. Replies

    Re: Frags with an ultimate GOTHIC vibe?

    Vintage, most particularly!
  62. Re: Creed Cuir De Russie and Royal English Leather

    I've only sampled Creed CdR and was not much taken by it. Chanel's is (or used to be) far better IMO, as is Knize Ten, in terms of birch tar / quinoline -style leathers, though some knowledgeable...
  63. Re: Looking for some memory assistance. Circa 1960's

    If it was 4711, then it's the neroli (= steam distilled orange blossom) note your recalling (largely synthetic and very prominent in 4711 and present in many other old-style EdCs).
  64. Re: Which fragrance is a "Hype-king" or "Overhyped"?

    Aventus has been overhyped since 1781. Of course this is from a vantage point that sees Tabarôme Private Collection as the best ever Creed. I think Knize Ten totally justified the hype it engendered...
  65. Re: Which perfume is close to the " Jean patou pour homme"

    Original Pph would not meet with much acclaim in today's market, fail IFRA regulations and contains hard- to-source and way-too-costly
    ingredients. And there is nothing on the market even remotely...
  66. Re: The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    There's no water per se, Hungary Water is itself a destillate. Here is an old recipe:
    "Rosemary, flowering tops: 14lbs, rectified spirit: 11.5 gall., water: 1 gall. (imperial British measures I...
  67. Re: are there any fragrance's that date back hundreds of years that are still in production?

    Creed has been a perfume house since 1975. I know that may as well be ancient Egypt to my undergrads (Was that President Chrysler or Ford?). REL is a leatherized chypre in the style of the 1920s....
  68. Re: Which scent would you break the bank for?

    I'm sure there's a sealed jar of 1912 L'Heure Bleue somewhere, for which I would gladly sacrifice my daughter's college education... just kidding, she'll have to put herself through anyway.
  69. Re: Critically acclaimed but a commercial failure?

    The whole Gobin-Daudet line
    Crown Perfumery in the 90s
  70. Replies

    Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    where can i get thid elixir in EU land? The Italian outlet is apparently sold out.

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  71. Re: Ephemera: Geza Schoen + Kode9 + Ben Frost + Tim Hecker

    Thanks for the indepth reflection! Which thanks go to the thread starter as well, of course :-)
  72. Re: Lit pipe in a bottle, preferably designer.

    Lit pipe: Odori Tabacco. Not designer, but quite amazing. When it comes to tobacco scents, I find that mass market scents never deliver. This is avalaible for a laughable 55 Euros from a German...
  73. Replies

    Re: Caraceni 1913

    Ah yes, those Forester bases. I love vintage No. 88 to bits and 1913 was fantastic as well. I still have half a bottle, AS balm and a bit of shampoo :rolleyes: . I believe Tremlett's Black Tie was...
  74. Re: Perfume that smells of Indian spices, chai tea etc.

    Laura Tonnato Amir is 100% Indian cornerstore with that unique mixture of spices, incense, sandalwood soap and hair-oil. Amazing smell, though I could not wear it on my body, it was simply too much.
  75. Re: I made it!!! Duplicated Virgin Island Water by Creed!

    Geez, do you know how many frags Creed has copied? Not to speak of Bond No. 9 and all the others? Plagiarism is a key aspect of the business, always has been, and if you put something on the market...
  76. Replies

    Re: Which is the Xerjoff I must try?


    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  77. Replies

    Re: Whys is Creed Tabarome not well liked?

    Listen to the man. In reference to Vintage Tab it's a classic case of what Germans call Verschlimmbesserung (something like a disimprovement). Not a good tobacco, not a good aquatic, not even an easy...
  78. Re: Ephemera: Geza Schoen + Kode9 + Ben Frost + Tim Hecker

    That's why we're all such happy people here on basenotes :)
  79. Re: Ephemera: Geza Schoen + Kode9 + Ben Frost + Tim Hecker

    Berliner Mischpoke :D. No doubt he's a good nose, just not my style.
  80. Replies

    Re: What are your Top 3 Creeds??

    1. Vintage Tabarome
    2. Royal English Leather
    3. Selection Verte

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  81. Re: Ephemera: Geza Schoen + Kode9 + Ben Frost + Tim Hecker

    I find this quite interesting as a project, all the more so since I'm getting involved in sensory studies academically (with a focus on smell), but the approach, in terms of synesthetic art, does...
  82. Re: Looking for a "bad boy" rum and oceanic fragrance.

    Idole de Lubin. Very voozy and spicy, definite pirate vibe, not overly aquatic (a good thing IMO), but does have a modern watery transparency to it.

    VIW is a coconut lime, beach party but no...
  83. Re: Timbuktu ruined? New packaging & reformulation

    So, I bought myself a bottle of the most recent version (at half the official store price) and the juice is, IMHO, godawful. Basically, it's a synthetic mess and I have great difficulty smelling...
  84. Re: What is the most you've ever sprayed at once?

    Perhaps 50ml or so of Acqua Classica di Borsari :). It was hot, the bottle was big and cheap & I wanted to do "the Napoleon" once in my life.

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling...
  85. Re: Creed Spice and Wood vs Malle French Lover

    I was about to point that out.
  86. Re: What's the most expensive fragrance in your collection?

    I never paid much for these, but with current market prices either vintage Patou pour homme or dito Privé or Tabarôme Private Collection, I assume.

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any...
  87. Re: Which fragrances remind you of a Grandma smell?

    I rest my case. Bye bye!
  88. Re: Chanel Sycomore: Lots of Negative and Unusual Complements

    Vetiver - tobacco combos do make me nauseous (Guerlain, Lubin), but Sycomore always comes across as ultra-sophisticated, with a filigreed smokiness not at all abrasive or funky-weedy. Your colleagues...
  89. Replies

    Re: Is it worth chasing more sandalwood?

    I'm quite a lover of sandalwood and sadly it is has become nearly impossible to find a good mysore note in most perfumery. The purest I ever experienced was vintage Floris Sandalwood, but the later...
  90. Re: Which fragrances remind you of a Grandma smell?

    You may have gathered from my post that my concern was not primarily with decent behavior towards people from different walks of life or whatever PC may mean in your book, but exclusively with the...
  91. Re: Which fragrances remind you of a Grandma smell?

    So it would once again seem that "grandma scent" is intended as some kind of derogatory cliché denoting classically constructed haute parfumerie with an emphasis on powdery florals? A poor show for a...
  92. Replies

    Re: What is your favorite Creed and why?!

    Private Collection Tabarôme. It is a perfect recreation of an opulent 1920s style perfume by a very competent nose (not OC) using some amazingly good bases and oils. The dark stern tobacco, the...
  93. Replies

    Re: Lit pipe tobbaco frag?

    Odori Tobacco

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  94. Replies

    Re: Smelling fragrance is a skill.

    Yes. One historical conceit for degrading smell has been that we're so bad at it (plus it's uncivilized :rolleyes:) - but this is actuallY a result of the cultural privileging of sight and sound....
  95. Replies

    Re: Most minty fragrance

    Wrigley`s has no frag yet?
    Farfalla uomo (organic), L'Eau Neuve by Lubin, Fath Green Water (preferably vintage).

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  96. Re: A spicy/oriental scent for the colder months. Which one of these 3?

    Opium, the older; the better. Needless to say there are lots of interesting alternatives, from La via del Profumo (Sharif and others) to Lutens (Ambre Sultan) to JHL and gazillions more.

  97. Replies

    Re: IFRA Bootlicking

    I am highly allergic to IFRA regulations. Must sue for damages to my aesthetic sensibility.

    btw.: You are invited to join my newly founded religion called Jickyism, whose core rituals include the...
  98. Replies

    Re: Other male fragrances with jasmine

    Third Man - classic, beautiful, affordable. Dukes of Pall Mall Cotswold has an incredible jasmine-ylang heart but is impossible to find these days.

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any...
  99. Replies

    Re: Pure Malt burns my skin

    Had this once woth an obscure old Roberto Capucci perfume that had a cayenne pepper note AND effect.

    With tight IFRA regulations today this is an unusually strong reaction. Any neurodermitic...
  100. Replies

    Re: A spooky, sensual forest perfume?

    Rather theoretical, as very hard to find, but Bogner's Deep Forest does its name proud. Jaguar Mark II, despite its name, also has an enchanted forest thing going on, with fewer sorcerers and more...
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000