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  1. Re: New brand Brooklyn Perfume Company with four fragrances

    Have you tried the others? There are two new releases: Ambergris and Green Iris. I think they're my most interesting work yet.
  2. Re: Advice regarding the diluting of civet absolute

    I've worked with both civet tincture and civet absolute. After a year or so, my civet tinctures--diluted to 3%, 5% and 10%--have developed the necessary aroma, which is clean, not funky or fecal. I...
  3. Re: Name the 3 most beautiful material you know

    Old Mysore Sandalwood
    Natural Musk
    Jasmin enfleurage
  4. Re: 2 new fragrances from Brooklyn Perfume Co: Ambergris and Green Iris

    Gulp. I hope you like them.
  5. Re: 2 new fragrances from Brooklyn Perfume Co: Ambergris and Green Iris

    In the interest of full disclosure, I'm the perfumer at Brooklyn Perfume Company. Ambergris is a take on ambergris and doesn't smell only of ambergris (of which it contains a hefty amount), but of...
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    Re: Amber (fossilised)

    I've since made an amber perfume for Brooklyn Perfume Company. It's balanced with an awful lot of the best vanilla--a CO2--that I could find. It also contains a lot of tobacco and castoreum, both...
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    Re: Working with Ambergris and Musk

    Ambergris dissolves in oil in the same way it dissolves in ethanol--just stir a chunk around and let it sit for 24 hours or so and the chunk will dissolve in the oil
    Maturing it is a different...
  8. Thread: Civet

    by James Peterson
    Replies
    38
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    20,001

    Re: Civet

    I think one must think of civetone as unrelated to civet. Civetone has a funky, dirty aspect that long-tinctured civet lacks. The same is true for civet absolute. Only the tincture has the necessary...
  9. Replies
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    Re: Animalic scents...help, please!!!

    I'd like you to try Brooklyn Perfume Company's musk. In the interest of full disclosure, I started the company several years ago.
    The musk is very animalic, more animalic than any other musk I've...
  10. Replies
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    Re: Working with Ambergris and Musk

    I often see demonstrations of laboriously grinding ambergris before tincturing it.
    I just plop a chunk (I once started out with a chunk about the size of an egg) in ethanol (measured in relation to...
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    Re: How to build an orris accord...

    Thank you, Milhaus. I've fooled around with Orris Give and haven't been impressed, but if it lasts so long, perhaps I can use it. Had thought about rose and will now definitely try it. Anisic...
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    Re: How to build an orris accord...

    One more thing. The best Alpha Irone I've found comes from Pell Wall.
  13. Replies
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    Re: How to build an orris accord...

    I know this is an old thread, but Yandynestor's dilemma is one I understand since I've been working on Iris for probably a year now.
    I have come up with an accord I'm very fond of (Irival, Orivone,...
  14. Re: how to make vanilla absolute colourless

    I've been fooling around with centrifuging stuff such as dark seaweed absolute; don't know if this would work with vanilla, I suspect not, but it might be worth testing,.
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    Those do sound like good prices, if you can call it that.
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    Unfortunately, I've never done business with this company. Do they insist on large quantities? The stuff, as I'm sure you know, is super expensive. I think I paid $100 for two ml. But the stuff is...
  17. Re: Ambergris melange vs. True Ambergris tincture

    I hate to say it, but I smell no comparison. Apples and oranges. Perhaps the melange is supposed to be someone's fantasy of what ambergris smells like rather than what it actually does smell like. I...
  18. Re: What is the impact of new regulations on non-European houses?

    I'd be willing to put on a disclaimer, I just don't want to get sued for selling someone a perfume with too much oak moss in it.
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    Re: Ignoring IFRA regulations.

    I'm a bit desperate about all these restrictions. I recently constructed a floral perfume, much like a chypre with a lot of oak moss. In fact, the oak moss comes out to 1%, not .1%, of the final...
  20. Re: Is this what real deer musk smells like?

    I'm old enough that I remember my mother's perfumes from the 40s and 50s. When she went out to a party, she would put on her perfume--Vol de Nuit was one--and the house would fill with its...
  21. Re: Have you ever had a traumatic experience with certain material? * ULTRAZUR*

    I tried ultrazure in my ambergris perfume in the hope that it would make it last longer. It did, but the dry down consisted of ultrazure and nothing else. I can see how it would be useful in certain...
  22. Re: Aroma Chemicals and Essential Oils you DETEST

    I find civet absolute to be ghastly while well-matured civet tincture is glorious. I'm not big on opoponax either, but do use it in blends.
    Maltol I find disgusting and smell it everywhere and in...
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    Re: Any true apricot fragrances?

    Be careful when you go to the osmoteque--I made reservations and after going out there (to Versailles), they refused to receive me saying there were no perfumers around who could help me. Just make...
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    Re: What smells like sea salt, beach?

    This may sound really peculiar, but has anyone tried tincturing a fish? Or an oyster?
    It occurs to me that the aroma in fresh wild salmon might be what some of us are looking for. My impression is...
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    Re: Oud lovers who love sandalwood...

    I live in Brooklyn and haver spent years collecting sandalwood from all over the world, searching for the best.
    One afternoon I went into one of those cheap incense stores where they make facsimiles...
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    Re: Musk Deer Pod

    About seven years ago, I bought some beautiful concentrated musk pastes from Agarscents. I made 10% tinctures of each. A trace--a slight rub of the bottom of the glass cap that doesn't even touch the...
  27. Re: Real Ambergris - how powerful is the smell meant to be?

    It's strange to me that no one mentions whether to mature tinctures of ambergris in the light or in the dark. My first experiments have been in the light--it makes sense intuitively that the...
  28. Re: Real Ambergris - how powerful is the smell meant to be?

    True, I find the smell rather faint once it's been on the skin a few minutes. It smells like isopropanol to me, but when combined with perfumes, that smell goes away and the perfume itself seems to...
  29. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    I've read that civet was once added to the alcohol.
  30. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    In my reading, I've seen the formulas using 1% of 3% tincture which is much smaller than the amounts discussed here.
  31. Replies
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    Re: ambergris tincture

    If anyone wants to see tincture of ambergris being made, check out the blog on brooklynperfume.com. It needs to age after which--in three to six months--it will develop its strange fragrance and turn...
  32. Replies
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    Re: Making ambergris tincture

    My tincturing continues. I bought a beautiful 50-gram piece and dissolved it in alcohol at 10% (I dilute as needed to 3%). The gentleman who sold me the ambergris had let his tinctures mature in the...
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    Where do you find blue lotus absolute? I purchased mine from Enfleurage in New York and it's glorious if not cheap.
  34. Replies
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    17,895

    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    So, it seems that I can combine orris butter with ethyl ether to dissolve the mystiric acid? Presumably the mystiric acid will remain in solution. But what happens to the absolute? Does it sink to...
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    Re: The problem with sweetness

    What about balsamic ingredients? I sometimes find that benzoin Siam and benzoin Peru offer a sweet effect. Has anyone used balsamic ingredients to achieve sweetness?
  36. Replies
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    My favorite blue lotus, and my favorite lotus of any kind, is the blue lotus from Enfleurage in New York. The stuff's super dear ($100/2 ml.) but the smell is so transcendent...
    Thank you mattmeleg...
  37. Re: New brand Brooklyn Perfume Company with four fragrances

    No, the edition that we're selling is the 3rd edition. We do, however, have about 20 bottles of the 2nd edition left. I can't say which one is the best, but they both smell very much of oud. The last...
  38. Re: New brand Brooklyn Perfume Company with four fragrances

    The third oud is ready. We'll need a week or two to get the samples on the website so it will be easy to get them then. I'll be selling the perfume at The Twisted Lily in Brooklyn and on my website,...
  39. Re: New brand Brooklyn Perfume Company with four fragrances

    My perfumes are made with pure ethanol (not denatured).
    I am now on the third oud iteration. I often include ouds that are very limited, leaving me to reformulate every time one runs out. The second...
  40. Replies
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    Re: Best Amber Fragrance?

    I hope that people will try Brooklyn Perfume Company's amber. It's not amber like we normally think, but an amber perfume made with actual fossilized amber--the kind that is used for jewelry. The...
  41. Re: Ambroxan, nice. Cetalox, nice. Fixateur, nice. Ambergris Oliffac... wtf?

    I've been experimenting with ambergris for quite some time now and have discovered how different colors of ambergris create different aroma profiles. The "best" grey and white ambergris have an...
  42. Re: Anyone ever used Tobacco Absolute from Perfumer's Apprentice? I have a question.

    I'm having a problem with tobacco absolute. Several years ago I ordered tobacco absolute (I think it was from Hermitage, but I'm not sure). It had the dark roasted and wonderful aroma of French...
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    Re: Preservatives & Benzophenone

    I've been working on a galbanum aroma and have found that after a month or so, the galbanum takes on an unpleasant gasoline smell. I'm now trying to preserve it by adding rosemary oleoresin up to...
  44. Re: Ambrette seed products, price variation

    Dear Damselbibi,
    You're so kind to have sent the list of suppliers. Their high prices reassure me that I'd be getting the real thing. Faulty reasoning I know, but still.
    What's your experience with...
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    Re: Ambrette seed oil supplier

    I must offer those I've critiqued, an apology. To be honest, I realize that I don't know what ambrette seed is supposed to smell like. I suspect I have as yet to sample a sort of archetype. My...
  46. Replies
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    9,756

    Re: 70% Ethyl Alcohol as a Perfume Base?

    I've been experimenting with using dilutions of alcohol to dissolve absolutes and natural oils. I've discovered that solubility depends on the essential oil or absolute. Some dissolve (about 1 ml....
  47. Replies
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    Re: Most Undervalued Vintage Frags?

    Maybe it's just that I'm getting old, but what are described here as vintage fragrances don't seem that old. I'm looking for a bottle of Vol de Nuit from the 50s or perhaps later as long as it still...
  48. Re: How do you successfully dilute a fragrance?

    I am currently working on a spray perfume--very light but with good projection when first sprayed. I first based my spray on alcohol, but since I want people to be able to spray it directly on their...
  49. Re: what is the minimum percentage of ethyl alcohol in a solution to have fragrance oils dissolve in

    In the course of experimenting with including water in my blends, I found that most natural oils will withstand a mixture containing 75% 190-proof ethanol and 25% water.
  50. Re: IFRA Standards - Discussion thread (Temporary partial version)

    Hi Chris,
    It was great seeing you in L.A. and having the opportunity to smell some of your stuff. I especially liked that rose you do--I forget, but it was something like a dirty rose or a dusty...
  51. Replies
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    Re: Ambergris

    Yes, it's a surprising connection. If you sniff ambergris and then regular isopropanol out of the bottle, you'll see the difference--the ambergris is complex and lovely, even though reminiscent of...
  52. Replies
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    51,634

    Re: Ambergris

    I've never smelled ambergris in a commercial perfume, including Creed. Perfumes containing ambergris have a distinct isopropanol whiff in the opening which I've never detected. I don't smell the...
  53. Replies
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    Re: making a water perfume?

    I've been trying to make a vetiver spray--a light spray for creating a delicate mist when getting out of the shower for example. I started out using pure ethanol, but when I sprayed it directly in my...
  54. Replies
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    Re: Ambergris oil

    I didn't even grind up the ambergris. Nor did I heat it. Presumably, both of these approaches would hasten its dissolution in the water, but aren't necessary. The stuff matured in about 4 months and...
  55. Replies
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    Re: Ambergris oil

    Yes, I've successfully dissolved ambergris in oil. I just took a little piece and shook it in a test tube with fractionated coconut oil. It dissolved and matured in the same way.
  56. Re: I heard 'real musk' is out of this world... Has anyone smelled it?

    I'll try Puredistance Black. I'm delighted that you've been layering my fragrance. Let me know of any interesting discoveries.
  57. Re: I heard 'real musk' is out of this world... Has anyone smelled it?

    I use my musk in everything. Especially when combined with florals, it provides just the necessary funk. I even get whiffs that remind me of the real thing. I haven't encountered this in any other...
  58. Replies
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    Re: Best Amber Fragrance?

    Dear freewheelingvagabond,
    I would love it if you would try the amber from Brooklyn Perfume Company. It isn't amber in the usual sense but is actually made with distilled fossilized amber, giving it...
  59. Re: Chemically, what makes a note a "fixative?"

    Dear I.D. Adam,
    I'd like to hear about your own experiences. Maybe I can figure this thing out.
  60. Replies
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    Re: Musk Deer Pod

    At the risk of being somewhat off subject, I've tried sodium hydroxide in those compounds that have a dirty feet smell. Surmising that this is butyric acid, I've added NaOH and much attenuated the...
  61. Replies
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    Re: Question about labdanum

    I don't understand people's resistance to ambergris. The usual reasoning is that it's too expensive, but considering how little is needed, it's not that bad. Ambergris can be had for $20/gram. A gram...
  62. Re: Chemically, what makes a note a "fixative?"

    Dear Pappy,
    In my own limited experience I've never encountered what might be called a real fixative. I've tried hedione, sandalwood, vetiver, various musks, glucam, on one wrist and the "un-fixed"...
  63. Re: What is your signature scent, or your favorite scent?

    At the risk of sounding blatantly self promoting, I must say that for the most part my own perfumes are my favorites. When I started working on perfumery about 5 years ago, my husband swore against...
  64. Replies
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    Re: Restricted/banned ingredients list

    I'm dying for a humane source of civet. There's a guy in China doing it but he says all his civet is spoken for and isn't used for perfumes anyway. I was contacted by a guy in Ethiopia selling civet....
  65. Replies
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    Re: Best Amber Fragrance?

    My experience with amber perfumes is limited, but those I have smelled seem to be based on various fantasies relating to labdanum, vanillin, etc. Few, if any, are based on actual fossilized amber....
  66. Re: What is your signature scent, or your favorite scent?

    Dear Nairn, I don't recognize all the perfumes you have listed, but those that I do are among my favorites. I'd be delighted if you ever have an opportunity to sample my perfumes from the Brooklyn...
  67. Re: New brand Brooklyn Perfume Company with four fragrances

    I've finally come up with a new oud. The source of my other oud dried up (despite assurances that I would have a continuous supply) such that I've had to reformulate it. The oud facets are more...
  68. Replies
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    27,690

    Re: Oud lovers who love sandalwood...

    While I was working on my sandalwood perfume, I wanted to use real Mysore sandalwood. The problem was/is that I had never smelled the genuine article. So I bought as many different "Mysore"...
  69. Replies
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    Re: Ambreine

    Oh, sorry. All of these are 20% solutions.
  70. Replies
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    Re: Ambreine

    Civet is tricky. I tried to order some "humane" civet from China but it is all spoken for. Mine is from profumo and made a lovely, almost fruity, tincture. As concerns the ambreine accord, mine is...
  71. Re: New brand Brooklyn Perfume Company with four fragrances

    I don't know what kind of sandalwood it is, just that out of 17 samples, all of which claimed to be Mysore, it had the best smell (excepted my Gold Standard from the 30s). Let me know if you have any...
  72. Replies
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    Re: The Best Oud-Dominant Fragrance?

    I've run into a problem. The oud I use for my oud perfume has run out and I'm having to reformulate. The original formula contained cultivated Indian Assam, which is no longer. I'm experimenting with...
  73. Re: Oud / Agarwood Source for Reasonably Price Funky Material

    I return. In your note I got a sense that you feel that my oud supplier might not be completely reliable as concerns perfectly pure oud. For those prices, I would hope so! Is that what you meant?...
  74. Re: Oud / Agarwood Source for Reasonably Price Funky Material

    Hi Chris,
    Very interesting. I'll have to investigate.
  75. Replies
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    Re: Agarscents Bazaar

    I haven't had luck with their ambergris. It doesn't match any profile I know. The Borneo 50K is my favorite but in all fairness I haven't tried the other one you listed.
  76. Replies
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    What must I do to track down orris concrete? I love orris and if there's something stronger out there, I'd love to hear the details.
  77. Re: Oud / Agarwood Source for Reasonably Price Funky Material

    Thanks Chris. I'll look into them. Normally, I find these "recreations" to be sad replications that I want avoid putting into my blends. But advice from you is not to be taken lightly; I will...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Oud Perfume

    I have a somewhat peculiar question. A couple of years ago I received some samples in the mail (unsolicited). There were 3 small bottles, labelled Grade A, Grade AAA, and Oud Arabic (the most...
  79. Replies
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    Re: Oud Perfume

    I should pay more attention to them. Any ideas of where to go?
  80. Replies
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    Re: Ingredients... If money were no object

    Enfleurage still does have tuberose and gardenia. Most exotic is their blue lotus. It's a divine thing. I haven't been able to small any of the other lotus's I've bought. If money were no object, I'd...
  81. Re: Specific Gravity of EOs, Absolutes, etc?

    Mumsy, do you mean to add a specific amount of alcohol (with the weight determined) and then add the absolutes/essential oils?
  82. Replies
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    Re: Oud Perfume

    Oh well, so much for my marketing abilities. I'm going to go with a second edition (which again will have to be limited but will be much larger than the first one since I've managed to track down a...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Honeysuckle accord

    Ah Ha. Thanks much.
  84. Re: Best jasmine and lily of the valley synthetics

    Hmm. Sounds serious.
  85. Replies
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    Re: Sandalwood Perfume

    Hello I.D. Adam. I have a gold standard, obtained from a basenoter, that is from the 30s. After smelling 15 sandalwoods, I selected the one that most resembled my antique. I felt there was enough...
  86. Replies
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    Re: Osmanthus

    As an impractical observation, I've noticed that oud and osmanthus share similar notes. I've had some success by including oud in my osmanthus formulations, but given that the oud is more expensive...
  87. Re: Looking to create the perfect Sandalwood based Eau de Cologne

    I like the Vanuatu from Agarscents. It's not cheap, but it's very powerful.
  88. Replies
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    I rely on the Orris butter (15% irones) from Eden. It's a beautiful thing that I've been able to amplify somewhat with alpha methyl ionone (I can't find iso-methyl ionone). It forms an accord with...
  89. Re: Oud / Agarwood Source for Reasonably Price Funky Material

    My favorite source is Oriscents. They have a variety of wild and cultivated ouds. However, they're not cheap as 3 ml. of their least expensive sells for about $200. I don't think they're CO2, but...
  90. Re: Specific Gravity of EOs, Absolutes, etc?

    I don't know if this is relevant, but I'm in the process of weighing drops of aroma chemicals and naturals. The size of the drops is, of course, variable and I want to find out what each drop...
  91. Replies
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    Re: Ingredients... If money were no object

    I find that products from Enfleurage in New York and those from John Steele to be pricey but worth it. I especially like the blue lotus from Enfleurage which is a hundred bucks for one of those tiny...
  92. Re: Best jasmine and lily of the valley synthetics

    I see that hexyl cinnamic aldehyde is frequently used. I only have one problem: I can't smell it. This, and my anosmia to hedione, are somewhat crippling. I'll keep smelling them in the hope that my...
  93. Replies
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    Re: Upcoming Perfume Course in NYC

    How do I sign up? It's already the 10th!
  94. Replies
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    Re: Honeysuckle accord

    What does TGSC stand for?
  95. Replies
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    Re: Sandalwood Perfume

    Chris, when you smelled the perfume I market for Brooklyn Perfume Company, you said that, while it's a pleasant scent, you had little sense (no pun intended) of sandalwood. This, of course, puts me...
  96. Replies
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    Re: Oud Perfume

    Thank you Chris and everyone for your input. I've since bottled and am selling an oud perfume (Brooklyn Perfume Company), but am in a quandary. The oud I've been adding to it (Oud Assam from...
  97. Re: Can perfumers control sillage or longevity?

    I've fooled around with various "fixatives" (such as glucam), but haven't found they make any difference and, if anything, just diminish the power of the scent. I find, simply enough, that the scent...
  98. Thread: Civet

    by James Peterson
    Replies
    38
    Views
    20,001

    Re: Civet

    I've found that most civet absolute fails to live up to the subtleties found in the tincture. A better approach, and one in which there isn't a requirement for a large quantity, is the paste they...
  99. Replies
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    51,634

    Re: Ambergris

    Dear Mumsy,
    I think I got this thing resolved. E-bay says the guy not only has to refund my money but has to send me a mailing label!
  100. Replies
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Does anyone know where I can find peach lactone?
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