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  1. Thread: Best Candles Ever

    by Roy
    Replies
    48
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    11,053

    Re: Best Candles Ever

    I haven't heard mention of the Bottega Veneta Intreccio series of candles. My vote's for number 2, but all are lovely.
  2. Re: nagarmotha EO (cyperus rotundus) anyone familiar with using it? its my newest oil

    Bluebell, I frankly love cyperus oil in that it captures the smell of a humidor with the blend of tobacco/spice and cedar with a musty note and is quite tenacious in a way cedarwood tends not to be....
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    Re: how to evoke a stronger wood accord

    Seems like a total of 255 parts in your formula, out of which you are using about a third to be your cedar facet. I think you can tone down the rose, especially the expensive white rose eo at 10...
  4. Thread: Frankincense?

    by Roy
    Replies
    23
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    3,606

    Re: Frankincense?

    I think that Eden Botanicals Frankincense SCO2 extractions are great at capturing the full range of the true material as is Liberty Natural's Frankincense absolute. The essential oils are very...
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    Re: how to evoke a stronger wood accord

    Hi, Conni. I think that the galaxolide is enough, but a bit of habanolide or even cashmeran would be a better fit than ambrettolide which is fruitier and more ambery in tone. Additionally, I own...
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    Re: how to evoke a stronger wood accord

    Bois ambrene forte and cederamber, in combination with coumarin/tonka as in burberry brit for men or vetiver/labdanum may give boost, but I doubt, unless the formula is built around the subtle cedar...
  7. Thread: Winter Air Smell

    by Roy
    Replies
    12
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    1,569

    Re: Winter Air Smell

    I would order CB I Hate Perfume's Winter 1972. It can be purchased in a 2ml size for a reasonable cost and smells exactly as you describe. I think it may be extremely difficult to reproduce without...
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    Re: Single Note Perfume - Can you help, please?

    I think that a single note like lime oil has a great many component fragrance molecules and that you need not feel fettered by only having the fragrance be lime oil. The...
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    Re: Taking suggestions for a new blend

    Nope, just been at the hobby for about ten years. Started with essential oils, then with websites like perfumersworld and perfumer's apprentice, moved into aromachemicals and kept chipping away. ...
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    Re: Taking suggestions for a new blend

    If you are interested in using aromachemicals rather than all naturals, some suggestions include adding mandarine aldehyde and methyl pamplemousse to augment the grapefruit and aurantiol and...
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    Re: What is the powdery note?

    The pleasure is all mine. Let us know how your experiments pan out.
  12. Replies
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    Re: What is the powdery note?

    The distinctive powdery base note in Guerlain fragrances is Guerlinade, an accord created about 90 years ago and is prominent in many of their older fragrances, most commonly noted today in...
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    Re: Help design a men's fragrance containing Ylang

    I would consider spice on the top - cinnamic/rose type and anisic type molecules as well as lemon/bergamot to pick up on the oriental theme of patchouli and vanilla. I also think some leather and...
  14. Replies
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    Re: benzyl or ethyl laurate, anyone?

    I use perfumer's apprentice for their fragrance ingredients. As far as waxy/floral or leafy scents phenethyl acetate, alcohol, PADMA (phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetal), and the other phenyl...
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    Re: benzyl or ethyl laurate, anyone?

    What would you like to use these for? There's a whole lot of waxy/soapy florals. I haven't used benzyl or ethyl laurate, but can think of many others.
  16. Re: A 'hole' in my perfume? Understanding bridging notes questions.

    I think a great way to experiment and not to waste too much ingredient is to put together your top, heart, and base notes, dilute, then experiment with the ratios you'd like. For instance, if you...
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    Re: Sycamore - where to find it?

    I recently smelled both of these fragrances (un jardin sur nil and chanel's sycomore) and I believe that a. neither contain any actual sycomore/sycamore and b. while un jardin sur nil refers to fig,...
  18. Re: Natural alternatives for gardenia, lilac, lily, etc.?

    Argane, I believe you've taken marketing for truth. People say a lot of things about fragrances, what they "capture," etcetera, very little of it true. If I wanted to sell a simple lily of the...
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    Re: Looking for an oceanic accord using naturals?

    I believe the salt accord in Sel de Vetiver was achieved using lovage, iris, and salicylates (likely the ones found in spearmint oil). Perhaps that combination will work. It's not oceanic per se,...
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    Re: Help design a men's fragrance containing Ylang

    I like the idea GourmandHomme, reminiscent of Geranium Pour Monsieur with the interplay of mint and floral on a clean musk base. In a wholly opposite direction, I was thinking leather/tobacco with...
  21. Thread: Bizarre CO2's

    by Roy
    Replies
    3
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    784

    Re: Bizarre CO2's

    I think this site is meant for medicinal purposes/aromatherapy type stuff rather than use in fine fragrance. I can tell you I've used juniper berry CO2 from Eden Botanicals that's wonderfully true...
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    Re: Cardamom essential oil

    I think the Eden Botanicals sight sells a supercritical CO2 extraction of cardamom that is very true to the real spice. I'm not sure if you want to make a tincture for culinary or fragrance...
  23. Re: Gardenia - distinctive aromachemical that gives it that "cheese" note?

    I would have to say the lactones, gamma decalactone specifically, may be what you identify as cheesy. As their name indicates, they have milky or cheesy facets. Their smell can also be described...
  24. Thread: Fig Accord

    by Roy
    Replies
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    3,845

    Re: Fig Accord

    Just got my shipment. The stemone is a dead ringer for green fig and the gamma octalactone adds the perfect sweetness to make it smell ripe and round. Fig-ured the accord out and recommend the...
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    Re: How many minutes 'makes' a top, middle or base?

    I would say on a tester strip, top notes last at most 4-6hrs, heart between that and 24hrs, and anything that you can still smell 24hrs later is likely a basenote. That's my experience.
  26. Thread: Fig Accord

    by Roy
    Replies
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    3,845

    Re: Fig Accord

    Just ordered stemone and octalactone gamma yesterday. I'll see if I can unlock the secrets of fig and let you in on it!
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    Re: Last question about dilution....

    Ingredients that usually compose a large percentage of the final product, like greater than 5%, I leave as is. Products that are solids, or that usually consist of a smaller than 1% amount of final...
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    Re: Dissolving absolutes

    If you are writing formulae in terms of "drops" of ingredient, you can do one of two things. One is separately writing in drops of absolute and alcohol. For instance, if you add two drops of...
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    Re: Dissolving absolutes

    Hi Patti,

    The easy answer is, no. I've dissolved some damned stubborn absolutes in alcohol without heat, no problem. I think the most stubborn have been mimosa, benzoin resinoid, and various...
  30. Thread: Fig Accord

    by Roy
    Replies
    41
    Views
    3,845

    Re: Fig Accord

    I was reading an article on fragrantica and found the reference to stemone and octalactone-gamma on it (as well as iso-e-super and hedione). I've smelled philosykos and premier figuier albeit not in...
  31. Thread: Fig Accord

    by Roy
    Replies
    41
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    3,845

    Re: Fig Accord

    Thank you for the help janmeut. I also read somewhere that stemone and gamma octalactone are key ingredients. Just wanted to do some research before taking a plunge and buying random fragrance...
  32. Thread: Exaltolide

    by Roy
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    2
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    2,771

    Re: Exaltolide

    I believe the thrust of the article is that women have a more intense or less intense ability or acuity of smell based upon hormonal changes. Many women become very sensitive to certain smells when...
  33. Thread: Fig Accord

    by Roy
    Replies
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    3,845

    Fig Accord

    Hello all. I'm curious about what goes into creating a fig accord. Any recommendations are welcomed.
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    Re: What stretches out the woody aspect of lavender?

    I just had another thought, apropos the discussion of woody aspects of lavender. I realized the classic fougere accord of lavender, bergamot (linalyl acetate/linalool), coumarin/tonka bean (very...
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    Re: What stretches out the woody aspect of lavender?

    First of all, I think what is clear is how subjective each of our vocabularies is in describing something simple like lavender absolute. One person's woody is another's anisic, or clove like, etc. ...
  36. Re: help needed in creating a fresh note for room spray

    I'm a big fan of linalool and derivatives. You can actually order linalool derived from basil oil, so not completely synthetic. If you don't mind synthetics, linalyl acetate is another great fresh...
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    Re: Help choosing top/middle note?

    If you want to start with Sandalwood and Vanilla, great. Classic pairing and pretty much an open book upon which to start. I'll try to stay within the essential oil parameters. As far as fresh...
  38. Thread: musks

    by Roy
    Replies
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    1,929

    Re: musks

    I would try cashmeran, ambrox, or cetalox in combination with cedryl acetate or methyl cedryl ketone or sandalwood molecules like ebanol, sanjinol, etc... in order to take the musks in a new...
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    Re: Any suggestions for chypres?

    I'm curious about your ingredients. What are you referring to as amber? My understanding is that the chypre accord is bergamot-oakmoss-labdanum. I'm uncertain about the dryness you are looking...
  40. Re: Need some help with a woman's perfume: What goes best with rose?

    In my adventures, an accord I became smitten with for a while was a 1part sandalwood, 2part orris root, 3part rose that I created for the hell of it out of naturals that are prohibitively...
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    Re: What to pair with Orris Root?

    I guess the question is what kind of perfume are you looking to make? Orris is versatile enough to be encorporated into most fragrance families. If you're going pure floral, jasmine, rose, orris...
  42. Re: How to extract the ethanol from a perfume to leave the perfume oils only?

    I suspect the only way to separate oils from the alcohol they are dissolved in is fractional distillation. Again, there is more than oil and alcohol in fragrace, as they often use other chemicals to...
  43. Replies
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    Re: Commiphora Opobalsamum

    I'm no expert, but perhaps the resin in question is Opoponax, or sweet myrrh. The Commiphora genus has a number of myrrh species under it's umbrella. Opoponax is one of these species and is still...
  44. Re: is there an authentic but less pricey substitute for blackcurrant absolute?

    You can try the black currant from Perfumer's Apprentice - three dollars a pop (2.5mL and it smells pretty darn good) under the name Cassis - a Givaudan product. Good luck in your burgeoning DIY...
  45. Thread: An amber accord

    by Roy
    Replies
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    5,302

    Re: An amber accord

    Thank you kindly. This formula looks great and I'll be sure to try it soon. I appreciate the continued interest in the thread.
  46. Thread: leather scents

    by Roy
    Replies
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    4,694

    Re: leather scents

    Labdanum and it's iterations, castoreum, isobutylquinoline, styrax, birch tar or cade. These are a good base upon which to work. Hope this helps.
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    Re: Synthetic v. natural

    I think the power of synthetics is not just economical. The synthetics largely broaden the palette of a perfumer. For instance, how do we produce lily of the valley, fruit accords, marine accords,...
  48. Thread: An amber accord

    by Roy
    Replies
    21
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    5,302

    Re: An amber accord

    I dilute my samples to 10% in perfumers alcohol from Snowdrift Farms.
  49. Re: Very rudimentary question on creating a one-dimensional frag.

    You want BO? Try cumin, civet, castoreum, costus root, and whatever musk oils you can get your hands on and see where it goes. These are as human as it gets, stinky, but well blended may be what...
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    Re: Best incense other than CDG

    The new L'Artisan scent, Aedes De Venustas for the eponymous store in NY is quite heavy on the incense. It's new and worth checking out and is additionally not created by anyone involved in the CdG...
  51. Thread: An amber accord

    by Roy
    Replies
    21
    Views
    5,302

    Re: An amber accord

    Hello all.

    To revisit the amber accord issue, I've ironed out the general formula with a 20:5:1 ratio of benzoin:labdanum:vanilla, with support of synthetics ambrettolide, cetalox, and ambrox DL...
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    Re: Does Anyone Want to Share Their Secret Formulas?

    I guess the answer is no, nobody wants to reveal their secret formulas, but that's not to say they won't help. I have no training whatsoever and started amateur perfumery for reasons I can't...
  53. Thread: Soapy notes

    by Roy
    Replies
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    1,531

    Re: Soapy notes

    Depends on a lot. It seems like yesterdays big fragrances become today's soap scents. Soapy smells to me are geranium, ylang, orangeflower, violet, and white musks.
  54. Thread: Eau de Cologne DIY

    by Roy
    Replies
    3
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    920

    Re: Eau de Cologne DIY

    I think that perfumers alcohol sold on websites is a good start. I'm not knocking everclear or other spirits, but it's easier to use the former because companies add extras to fix your fragrance,...
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    Re: Could someone make this for me?

    From the looks of it, you'd like something in the leather-chypre family. Perhaps rather than a melange of notes, you could also start from the "idea" of the fragrance. What do you want to convey. ...
  56. Thread: An amber accord

    by Roy
    Replies
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    5,302

    Re: An amber accord

    Thank you for all your help. I'm looking forward to the results!!
  57. Thread: An amber accord

    by Roy
    Replies
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    Views
    5,302

    Re: An amber accord

    I am using the firmenich ambrox.

    By vanilla products, vanillin, ethyl vanillin, etc..?

    Thank you for the suggestions, I'll take them into account in the next few accords I produce.
  58. Thread: An amber accord

    by Roy
    Replies
    21
    Views
    5,302

    Re: An amber accord

    The most recent iteration is a base of galaxolide at 20 parts, with Labdanum resin at 15, benzoin resin at 10, cetalox at 5 parts, ambrettolide at 5 parts, ambrox at 3 parts, myrrh at 2 parts, with 1...
  59. Thread: An amber accord

    by Roy
    Replies
    21
    Views
    5,302

    An amber accord

    Hello fellow perfumers. I'm trying to create an amber accord to use in my fragrances as a building block for orientals. I'm still having problems creating the right balance and diffusiveness. The...
  60. Re: Looking for a warm, modern, non-grandpa fall/winter scent

    I associate L'Artisan Parfumer's Tea for Two with Autumn and Winter. It smells very lightly smoky, then into a spiced black tea note. Another very different, dry fragrance, Bois Farine, reminds me...
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    Re: What notes to use to create the scents of ...

    Candle wax is a toughie. Aldehydes do have "waxy" facets. Another twist is using beeswax absolute. As far as the books, the leather can be accomplished using castoreum, labdanum and associated...
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    Re: INCENSE * Any pointers on this variety ?

    The way I familiarized myself with the ingredients was to get as many variations on the few "incense" notes as I could. Frankincense and Myrrh both come as essential oils, absolutes, supercritical...
  63. Re: Can you make a "unique" fragrance with essential oils only?

    Demeter fragrances are all or nearly all synthetic in their component fragrance materials. There are natural notes that may hint at dirt (spikenard oil's top note, mitti attar - a codistillation of...
  64. Thread: Violent notes

    by Roy
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    1,126

    Re: Violent notes

    Spices are typically perceived as "hot" or "passionate" and subsequently may be considered angry. I think an oriental with amber and rose, topped with spices may be considered angry and passionate. ...
  65. Thread: A Powdery EO?

    by Roy
    Replies
    17
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    2,517

    Re: A Powdery EO?

    Geranium bourbon, mimosa and cassie absolutes, orris root (absolute/butter or the significantly cheaper supercritical CO2 extraction), vanilla and tonka, rosewood (though endangered and linalool, a...
  66. Replies
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    Re: Substitutes for Difficult Notes- Grapefruit

    Givaudan makes a synthetic grapfruit, Grapefruit S Givco 230 as well as methyl pamplemousse, but they are not available in amounts smaller than kilograms on any website I can find, but maybe if you...
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    Re: Cologne From Another Planet

    I would recommend Comme Des Garcons fragrances from the synthetic series.
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    Re: Elegant and sophisticated english scents

    English Fern - a classic fougere laced with English lavender by Penhaligon's.
  69. Replies
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    Re: Pipe or cigar smoke with perfume

    I occasionally indulge in a cigar or pipeful of good tobacco and I find the leather scents (Cuiron, CdG Man2 are what I've got) blend the best. Something about tobacco and leather really conjures a...
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    Re: SOTD Saturday, May 19

    Comme des Garcons Man 2
  71. Thread: smoke?

    by Roy
    Replies
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    Views
    2,317

    Re: smoke?

    Tea for two by L'artisan has a lapsang souchong note-a tea dried over pinewood fires lending a smokey flavor and scent, tempered by sweeter vanilla/milk notes as well as tempered by a ginger note. ...
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    Re: what does tuberose smell like?

    Thanks kindly!!
  73. Re: What's the ONE women's fragrance that drives you men crazy? And why?

    The fragrance has to match the woman. I had an ex that wore Bulgari pour femme, sexy, great sillage, fit her personality. My present lady wears la chasse au papillon extreme and it matches her...
  74. Replies
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    Re: Best Of the Olfactory Groups

    Rather than run the gammut, I'll reccommend what I wear, tell you the fragrance group to the best of my ability, and if and why my girlfriend/others like it.
    Bond No. 9 - Chez Bond-almost identical...
  75. Replies
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    Re: what does tuberose smell like?

    I'm smelling tuberose absolute right now, trying to give you the most accurate impression possible. I'd say a creamy white floral scent with a "dirty" note remeniscent of a room your grandfather was...
  76. Replies
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    Re: samples of basic perfume constituents

    There is a website, perfumers world that sells the raw perfume ingredients to which you refer. I'm new so I can't post the URL, just google it. The issue with the ones you may not find on that or...
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    Re: what's the deal with...

    I'll go first, then respond. For me it's tea notes. I for the life of me cannot pick out a tea note in any of my fragrances but I'm told it's there. I like a cup of green tea now and again, but...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Is labdanum a dark note?

    By and large I suppose it could be considered a "dark" note. The raw material looks like tar and smells of a mouldering forest floor, thus its appearance in the classic chypre accord (oakmoss,...
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