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  1. Re: Any high quality dirty masculine/unisex scent recently released?

    Ulrich Lang Aperture.
  2. Re: Luca Turin Reviews Montblanc Emblem and Coleur Kenzo Violet at Style.com/Arabia

    With some 1400 perfumes being released a year, I wonder how anyone can wear a perfume long enough (one week each, say?) before writing an in-depth review you find satisfying enough for everyone and...
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    Re: Coromandel reformulated?

    The list of restricted materials can be easily found on the Internet, and the impact of IFRA 2014 restrictions have been reported by news services as well as by several prominent bloggers. Some...
  4. Re: Luca Turin Reviews Montblanc Emblem and Coleur Kenzo Violet at Style.com/Arabia

    Again, Luca Turin provides very interesting background information to perfumery that some, if not all, of us can appreciate.

    With reference to acetylenic molecules, I had always though Grey...
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    Re: Coromandel reformulated?

    Just because I point out a poorly thought out comment by the OP? Where is your evidence?
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    Re: Coromandel reformulated

    The problem is, as cacio states, patchouli is not a problematic material targeted by IFRA. So, a 'weaker' patchouli because of IFRA restrictions in 2014 is a suspect correlation and thus unfair...
  7. Re: Serge Lutens - Any news about the 2014 exclusive range perfume?

    It seems like Serge Lutens is moving into olfactory 'portraits', fragrances inspired by people. The most recent releases, such as La Fille de Berlin, La Vierge de Fer, even Une Voix Noire, were...
  8. Re: As a niche house, why are Serge Luten fragrances easier to find cheaper?

    Serge Lutens is sold in Sephora and Marionnaud in France, not exactly niche in terms of distribution.
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    Re: Oeillet Bengale by Aedes de Venustas

    Oh, I am sorry, I did not know this thread was a private one for you and lpp (sorry, lpp!).

    And I am also sorry to inform you that Bengal is not a major province of India per se. It is an area...
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    Re: Oeillet Bengale by Aedes de Venustas

    I think you were overthinking the connections.

    The Aedes de Venustas press release and the two reviews make mention only to Œillet Bengale, and not to Œillet d'Inde, which appear to be two...
  11. Re: Fragrance Notes - More than the sum of their parts?

    I keep seeing posters conflate notes and ingredients, which are different things.

    As perfumers often note (e.g., Jean-Claude Ellena in his books), perfume formulae tend to run into hundreds of...
  12. Re: Frederic Malle was forced to reformulate about a quarter of his scents

    Perhaps perfumes need to be sold only by licensed pharmacists in future, who can explain all the mumbo-jumbo about the labelled ingredients to consumers who are apparently unable to do their own...
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    Re: Amouage Journey Man: mish-mash

    I think he was referring to the appearance of the bottles. So, Amouage White is most probably Honour.
  14. Replies
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    Re: Noir Tom Ford - For Men?

    I have heard someone very knowledgeable about perfumes compare Tom Ford Noir to Guerlain's Habit Rouge, a masculine oriental focused on vanilla (also spicy, woody-resinous, powdery, and leathery),...
  15. Re: What happened to Millesime Imperial? So Different now...

    I think the operative keyword here is 'some' natural ingredients. It is commonly agreed that in commercial modern perfumery, whether designer or niche, a lot of synthetics are used. Because of the...
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    Re: Niche Designer Lines

    Would that be the YSL Oriental Collection (Majestic Rose, Noble Leather, Splendid Wood, Supreme Bouquet)? I wonder if it can really be considered niche though. Is it just another collection aimed at...
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    Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    For the kind of guide you want about more precise elements, I think you are looking for Michael Edwards' Fragrances of the World.
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    Re: The best from MCDI

    Enlèvement au Sérail seems to have run afoul of new IFRA restrictions, hence Claude Marchal's decision to pull it out.
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    Re: Cédrat Enivrant by Atelier Cologne

    Cedar in French is cèdre. Cédrat refers to the citron fruit.
  20. Replies
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    Re: the great youtube burnout

    I have always found that perfume is one subject difficult to capture on non-olfactory media. This means neither videos nor written reviews can really adequately convey reviewers' thoughts with...
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    Re: Profumum Rosae Mundi

    There is only one review of this in the Basenotes directory, so I hope to gather more opinions from Basenoters.

    I am curious about this rose perfume. Does it act like a true chypre, despite not...
  22. Re: Whic is the most preferable Serge Lutens fragrance for men?

    As such, this topic is not that specific to the OP, and can be still quite relevant in general discussion. So, thread resurrection is not always a bad thing.

    Personally though, I don't view Serge...
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    Re: What should be my next Creed afther the MI?

    Escentials is really not cheap. They have only 75ml bottles for most of the scents, and cost about SGD 270 to 300.

    You can try your luck at Dollars and Scent: they will have 120ml bottles for...
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    Re: What should be my next Creed afther the MI?

    If you spent most of your time indoors (i.e., in air-conditioned environments), I think there need not be too much concern over having to get a 'summer' fragrance.

    You can test all the regular...
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    Re: Nu-chypre recommendations

    No, 'chypre' refers to Cyprus in French, the island, not the tree.
  26. Replies
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    Re: EC Looks to Ban Three Fragrance Ingredients

    Whether or not the alcohol dries out, the perfume residues are still on the skin. Does it really matter whether the patch stays on or not? A possible way to test the effect of the patch, if any, is...
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    Re: What does the term "synthetic" constitute?

    Actually, I feel the processes are quite similar. Let's take rose for example. The important odorants for rose number just about five or six, but natural rose may contain up to 4000 chemicals. To...
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    Re: What does the term "synthetic" constitute?

    I get andym72's point. He's saying this: naturals are like good audio files, they are deeper, more 'natural'-smelling.

    MP3s are lossy versions, so in perfume terms, notes composed of few...
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    Re: What does the term "synthetic" constitute?

    The problem with the chocolate note example is that there is no natural source that gives a more natural chocolate anyway, i.e., no one can put real chocolate into perfume per se, as there will be...
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    Re: EC Looks to Ban Three Fragrance Ingredients

    I like Redneck Perfumisto's suggestion (and Edmond Rounitska's idea) about wearing perfume on clothes. Perhaps the houses should come up with a non-dermal product, kind like of room sprays, but...
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    Re: What does the term "synthetic" constitute?

    When people say 'it smells synthetic', then I agree it probably goes along what aphexacid and Buysblind wrote.

    As for synthetic materials, I think this is a really complicated issue, and often,...
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    Re: Which formulations Mr. Turin ??

    Turin and Sanchez's book does have some useful articles on perfume science and art, and on perfume collecting before the reviews, so even if the reviews are not particular useful because they only...
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    Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Thank you for your clarification.

    I would say, read Elena's article carefully, and try to see her points as they are (and not to ascribe any particular hidden motive). Her points stand on their...
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    Re: Which formulations Mr. Turin ??

    You are not wrong about the use of the highest concentration.

    On Page 54 (Answers to Frequenty Asked Questions), it is stated: "We use the highest concentration for which we have a sample, but if...
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    Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Hmmm... after reading this here, previously on the other BN thread on Dame and his 'dreck' comment, on Fragrantica, and elsewhere in the internet, I wonder about people's attitudes towards industry...
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    Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Elena follows up with another article, but on her own blog: http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.sg/2014/02/on-vintage-stuff-and-polemics-of-truth.html.
  37. Replies
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    Re: Which formulations Mr. Turin ??

    In the Guide, right before the reviews start, they state: "We try to assess the most recent formulations from samples obtained directly from firms." And they go on to state their disclaimers about...
  38. Replies
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    Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    I believe that Elena is not against vintage, but merely trying to generate discussion about why people should buy vintage, or not. Often, I think lots of people hold many misconceptions about...
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    Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    In that case, why bother reading on perfume at all? Or even come to a perfume forum to discuss perfume? If perfume is so subjective, can there be any common ground for sharing and discussion then?...
  40. Re: Outlaw and Independant perfumers who ignore IFRA bans

    I am curious to know if perfumes sold 'exclusively' in the Middle East market but then able to be shipped worldwide from there would be infringing any of the EU laws? Niche companies could then sell...
  41. Re: Unisex fragrance, Notes I love: Raspberry, Anise, Cinnamon (Suggestions?)

    Azzaro pour Homme Elixir, a sweet fruity masculine (fougère).
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    Re: What is the exact definition of "Vintage"?

    I am wondering though, for really old perfume compositions like Jicky, how do we know that the more recent batches (even from 70s) are actually close to the original formula?

    Was it common to...
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    Re: Penhaligon's to launch "Tralala" in April

    The notes as listed in the BN article:
    The ‘counter culture couture’ of Tralala opens with notes of saffron, whiskey, ambrette seed, galbanum and green violet, with a heart of carnation, orris,...
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    Re: Dior Fahrenheit Pure Parfum

    To speculate or to offer an opinion is not making up stuff. Then any comment we made is also making up stuff.





    I would disagree.

    Wagner seems to imply that women do like Terre d'Hermès a...
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    Re: Dior Fahrenheit Pure Parfum

    Rather than accuse the blogger of making up things or being ignorant, I think it would be wiser to examine her post more carefully.

    First off, the title of the post indicates a "Men's cologne", so...
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    Re: Smells from a cook's perspective

    And there is no surprise that Guerlain can find teas with notes that match their iconic perfumes such as Shalimar and Habit Rouge!
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    Re: Serge Lutens: Confusion about lines/labels

    On Persolaise's blog, there was an interview with the boutique manager of the Serge Lutens boutique, now regrettably removed. In this interview, the interviewee was explaining how the Serge Lutens...
  48. Re: What makes the structure of Extrait so different -- Spin Off Chanel Extraits

    I think that's a great answer, cacio!

    I think that the idea of the concentration harks back to the purpose of the perfume: extrait for night-wear, more intimate occasions; EdTs for day-wear (the...
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    Re: Hermessence Longevity?

    I think sometimes, we forget that we are not the only customers on the market, i.e., perfume aficionados. A lot of business is generated by sales to the general masses who do not give two hoots about...
  50. Re: Serge Lutens 2013 - "Laine de Verre", "La Vierge de Fer" and "La Fille de Berlin" (???)

    I agree with your observations.

    When my friends and I smelled this, the general consensus was that this is a rather commercial composition for Serge Lutens. We got a lot of fruit (peachy...
  51. Thread: Singapore

    by Maque
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    Re: Singapore

    I am not sure about Blackmarket. Oblique at Hide & Seek does seem to have ceased operations, which is such a pity.

    Your best bet may be to directly order from Tauer Perfumes, and it is cheaper...
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    Re: are alcohol based fragrances safe?

    Alcohol has traditionally been used for sterilising and disinfection of equipment and skin in hospital settings. Toxic? Sure, to pathogens.
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    Re: Hermessence Longevity?

    It's not just about concentrations, but about composition and materials. Consider Brin de Réglisse: lavender and licorice. Both are not exactly heart- or basenote materials. Besides the ubiquitous...
  54. Re: Any news for Serge Lutens Exclusive going to release as Export for 2014! Any guesses?

    I think the pricing for bell jars being distributed in the US is too high, compared to the original pricing in Europe. This accounts for why many SL lovers in the US are fed up with the situation....
  55. Re: Creed Jardin d'Amalfi = Chanel Eau de Cologne?

    For what it's worth, I get a lot of pink pepper whenever I spray Jardin d'Amalfi, to the point I would sneeze. After the opening, I get a well-blended neroli with fruity rose, and there's this...
  56. Re: Any news for Serge Lutens Exclusive going to release as Export for 2014! Any guesses?

    The Tout Noir travel spray ("le vaporisateur tout noir") comes as 2 refills of 30ml with a black lacquered case.

    See link: http://us.sergelutens.com/purchase/le-vaporisateur-tout-noir.html
  57. Re: Any news for Serge Lutens Exclusive going to release as Export for 2014! Any guesses?

    The Tout Noir travel atomiser takes the place of the exclusive-as-export bottle. This year's scents are Iris Silver Mist and Fourreau Noir.

    Chêne had previously been released as export before, so...
  58. Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    This Classics Collection appears to be a repackaging of some Hermès classics, but with also a new flanker for Bel Ami. It does not seem to be an entire line of reorchestrated scents as suggested by...
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    Re: Rich citrus summer scents

    The new Classic Orange from Von Eusersdorff.
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    Re: Creed lot numbers...SOLVED!

    Perhaps they misread the code.

    If you look at the first page, original post with the information on how to decipher Creed lot numbers,

    "A1/" may actually be A17 = Fleurissimo

    Then there is...
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    Re: Amour Nocturne - l'Artisan Parfumeur

    I find the metallic notes quite prominent in both Déliria and Amour Nocturne, and this comes off as avant-garde to me. These notes also make these fragrances a little harder to wear for me.
    ...
  62. Re: Hermessence Epice Marine Now Available in US Hermes Boutiques

    I think what a lot of people equate to, not altogether correctly I feel, is that price equals performance (in terms of projection and longevity). Performance is actually determined by composition and...
  63. Replies
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    Re: Amour Nocturne - l'Artisan Parfumeur

    A very interesting observation! What is this brand? I hope to try it and identify the similarity between the chips and AN.
  64. Re: Serge Lutens 2013 (?)

    Laine de Verre has been confirmed as the next Serge Lutens release, as one of the Eaux.

    See Grain de musc's review: http://graindemusc.blogspot.sg/2013/11/laine-de-verre-serge-lutens-new-fizzy.html
  65. Re: Opinion: niche hardly seems applicable to most fragrance houses

    But... what is the commonly understood definition? From the way these discussions on the definition of niche keep appearing, it does seem like all of us are using 'niche' in multiple ways that...
  66. Re: Opinion: niche hardly seems applicable to most fragrance houses

    No, I did not write that, and your interpretation seems twisted, putting in a presumption on my part where none exists.

    Designer = wide distribution, easily found --> found in departmental stores...
  67. Re: Opinion: niche hardly seems applicable to most fragrance houses

    Interesting that you brought up this point. Wasn't Serge Lutens always been bankrolled by a corporation, i.e., Shiseido?





    Unfortunately, in the mutual appreciation of fragrances, we do need...
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    Re: Some thoughts on soliflors and such

    I think it's easiest to know what a soliflore is by contrasting them against 'bouquets', fragrances which contain notes of several flowers such that no particular floral note stands out. I believe...
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    Re: Serge Lutens Special Edition Release?

    hedonist, they have replaced the yearly 'Ephemeral' scents with the travel sprays (Le Vaporisateur Tout Noir). This year's are Iris Silver Mist and Fourreau Noir, as donna255 and cazaubon has...
  70. Replies
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    Re: Some thoughts on soliflors and such

    I am wondering if you take other performance indicators into consideration as important for your quest for a soliflore. I think more perfumers do not create soliflores partly because of structural...
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    Re: Patou Pour Homme to be reissued?

    News/interview about the reissue of Jean Patou heritage scents:
    http://www.fragrantica.com/news/Perfumer-Thomas-Fontaine-About-Jean-Patou-4338.html
  72. Replies
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    Re: Summer scents with a musky base

    Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier. Lemon blossom, a little honeyed, with musk.
  73. Replies
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    Re: Dior's Privee line

    Ambre Nuit was only launched in 2009, so your bottle cannot be all that old.
  74. Poll: Re: Green Irish Tweed, Millisime Imperial or Aventus?

    Maybe try it for a few more times. From what I have been reading about Creed, new bottles tend to smell a little off, and will settle down after a bit of time.

    The poor longevity is quite normal...
  75. Re: A Few Words on Listed Content and Real Content of Perfume in Bottles

    Good to report on this.

    Actually, would it be fairer to yourself if you put a disclaimer regarding the possible shortfall in the bottles received when conducting your split?
  76. Re: Niche Summer Fragrance: no citrus, no cologne, no barbershop!

    L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzongkha maybe, as an alternative to Timbuktu.
  77. Replies
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    Re: Patou Pour Homme to be reissued?

    Apologies for the tangent, but regarding this view of Guerlain's improved batches, when did this start? That is, if I am interested to get a good batch wth the current 'safer' oakmoss option, how do...
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    Re: Wear what you enjoy. Oh really? A revelation

    Isn't this dictum 'wear what you enjoy' in opposition to 'wear for others' (e.g. to get compliments). It does not say how much you have to wear.

    Common sense should still prevail and the wearer...
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    Re: Allergic reaction

    Actually, is this really an allergic reaction? If you spray on your wrists and keep smelling it, do your eyes still sting and water? I am wondering if some component (spices?) is irritating your...
  80. Re: Bad Experience in China: Eau Sauvage attracted The Police.

    Here, I agree with L'Homme Blanc Individuel. Unless the OP can understand Chinese (vis talking to the taxi driver or understanding the conversation between the taxi driver and the policeman), we...
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    Re: Battle of the MPG Roses

    I think the rose/berry profile was used for Vocalise.

    Rose Muskissime has some fruit, but their musk also has a fruity facet.

    I have not tried Rose Opulente, but understand that it's more of a...
  82. Replies
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    Re: Plum Crazy! (the search for plum notes)

    Annick Goutal, Mon Parfume Cheri, par Camille.

    Very strong plum/patchouli. May be considered too feminine, though.
  83. Thread: Singapore

    by Maque
    Replies
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    12,015

    Re: Singapore

    This may be a little late for bambino, but Armani Privé is now available at Tangs Beauty Hall, with:
    Les Eaux (Figuier Eden, Oranger Alhambra, Rose Alexandrie, and Vetiver Babylone)
    La Collection...
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    Re: ++ Creed Aventus nose fatigue Experiment...

    IMHO, best post in all recent Aventus threads! And a very good explanation for a phenomenon more perfume-wearers should take note of.
  85. Replies
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    Re: Dior Homme Cologne?

    DHC 2013 is a totally different scent with the notes of grapefruit and musk. There is no longer any thematic link to Dior Homme or to the DHC 2007 (all of which has iris).
  86. Replies
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    Re: From niche to mainstream

    Hmmm... is Bond No.9 supposed to be quite exclusive in its approach to marketing its scents?

    Anyway, Sephora in Singapore has been carrying a considerable range of Bond No.9 for the past two,...
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    Re: Fragrances discontinued in the last 5 years?

    Yohji Homme will be reissued this year.
  88. Replies
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    Re: Dior Homme Cologne?

    I like the 2007 Dior Homme Cologne. It's lighter and more versatile, and it still has that iris-cocoa accord with some sparkling citrus for an interesting contrast. Some may think it's a watered down...
  89. Re: Do all Dior Homme bottles have "CD" engraved?

    My Dior Homme 2005, Dior Homme Cologne 2007 (tester), and Dior Homme Sport 2008 all have the 'CD' engraved only on the caps, and not the sprayers.
  90. Thread: RIP Montale?

    by Maque
    Replies
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    10,523

    Re: RIP Montale?

    This whole Montale business is quite confusing. Is anyone able to explain the relationships between Montale, Tanelli, and Mancera?
  91. Replies
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    Re: Oud Ispahan - characteristics

    To some folks, there is indeed this association with the macaron flavour (rose, with raspberry and lychee), but unfortunately, Dior's Oud Ispahan is simpler, without the said fruity accents. I...
  92. Re: Do you guys buy testers without the cap? Does it bug the living hell out of you like it does me?

    Well, caps are useful.

    I recently had to take a tester without a cap with me for a swap. I had placed the tester in my bag, and inadvertently depressed the nozzle of the tester a few times...
  93. Thread: Sampling creeds

    by Maque
    Replies
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    Re: Sampling creeds

    I would push for:
    Millesime Impérial
    Sélection Verte
    Jardin d'Amalfi
  94. Replies
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    Re: Oud Ispahan - characteristics

    1. Somewhat sweet.
    2. Not medicinal to me at all. The oud is more smoky wood. And I perceive it right from the start.
    3. The rose is somewhat dark, jammy.

    I think Oud Ispahan gets less attention...
  95. Re: Straight versus Gay preferences: A Scientific Study

    I must admit I did not read the paper via the link given (I missed it), but many responders to the OP's post also did not read the study, which led to some rather hasty conclusions on their part (the...
  96. Re: Straight versus Gay preferences: A Scientific Study

    Without seeing the actual paper DanielPlainView is referring to, we will not know exactly which scents the author used for the survey, but the abstract states "common scents". To avoid bias, I...
  97. Replies
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    Re: Dior's Vetiver....

    From a blog review on Mitzah and with some words on the discontinuation issue:

    UPDATE - 3/2/2013: I just spoke with the Dior Beauty Stylist, Karina Lake, at the Dior Las Vegas boutique. The...
  98. Replies
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    Re: Perfumania...somethings not right???

    What happens to all the returned fragrances? I assume since they cannot be sold as new, then they are destroyed?

    I find such a practice wasteful in a sense. To take an extreme example: authentic...
  99. Replies
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    Re: The Great Reformulation Debate.

    I generally agree with the idea of indicating the version (it need not necessarily be a numbered version e.g. 3, or 3.3 or 33) but batch numbers are rather clumsy (see all derision over...
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    Re: Fragrance note "overdose", what is it?

    From some marketing copy of nu_be Oxygen,

    Perfumer Antoine Lie tells us more: "The idea was that of an oxygenated wood… Steamy and refreshing at the same time, more complex than oxygen itself. I...
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