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  1. Thread: Queries

    by David Ruskin
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    205

    Re: Queries

    The 26 allergens are found in a variety of products. Most of them are naturally occurring . It doesn't matter if the allergen is added as a chemical or part of an essential oil. it's still there.
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    Re: essential and synthetic

    Both DPG (Dipropylene Glycol) and DEP (Diethyl Phthalate) are solvents, and cane used to dilute a fragrance as they are both very cheap. As solvents they have different uses, and different...
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    Re: Green Cognac Essential Oil

    Both Lie de Vin Green and White are very strong, and in concentrate just like the smell of vomit after a heavy night drinking Whiskey or Brandy. In dilution though, they are quite pleasant. ...
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    Re: One other question

    Bitrex is odourless, so any in your alcohol is fine. I would be more worried about the 9.1 % IPA, as that has a very strong smell.
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    Re: Nopyl Acetate and others

    If you have to replace it with anything use Linalyl Acetate, Terpinyl Acetate or even iso Nonyl Acetate; Benzyl Salicylate is nothing like.
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    Re: Nopyl Acetate and others

    The Good Scents Guide states that it is found in nature but doe not mention which oils contain it. The Takasago web site states that it is not found in nature. I would assume that it had been...
  7. Re: Want to try to recreate prada infusion d'iris. . Help??

    There are a few Essential oils and extracts that will last a long time, and will act a little like a fixative. Patchouli oil and Labdanum Abs are two that come to mind. remember though, the...
  8. Re: What is in an aftershave that makes it an aftershave and not an EdC / EdT

    That was an old book. No formaldehyde now, I hope.
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    Re: Perfume duplication by GCMS

    You are absolutely right. Copycat fragrances are generally cheaper than the original and rely on the customer recognising the Top note.
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    Re: Ambroxan doesn't smell at all!!!

    Are you sure that the sample of Ambroxan you have is any good? If you have done everything that has been suggested and you still cannot smell anything I feel that there can only be one conclusion...
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    Re: Formula for Lily (Lys) Accord ?

    The para Cresyl Phenylacetate is very important.
  12. Re: Which "feminine" scents would you never want to be without ?

    Jicky
    Bandit
    Chanel 19
    Tea Rose (perfumer's workshop)
    Mitsouku
    Shalimar
    L'Heur Blue
    Apres L'Ondee
    L'Air de Rien
    Aromatique Elixier.
  13. Replies
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    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    The reason people complain when a fragrance is reformulated (and it doesn't matter if Natural is replaced by Synthetic, or vice versa ) is that it is different. Presumably the fragrance was bought...
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    Re: Narcotic florals

    All Perfume Houses will have a department devoted to the analysis of fragrances and Essential Oils. If you wish to spend money on having something analyses and then spend time trying to match it,...
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    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    And my point is that both types of Perfumery will produce something that is good. You (Kaern) was the one who first used the musical analogy, I just followed along. Sweet Pea is a poor example as...
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    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    And can be just as enjoyable. However, there is no synthesiser that can make the same sounds as a cello, or the human voice.
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    Re: Recreating log fire scent

    What does your sample look like? Is it dark in colour? Birch Tar is usually unmistakeable.
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    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    Once again it comes down to cost. The Moss which has been modified to remove the atranols cost much more than the traditional quality. Suppliers of Moss were reluctant to try, and their early...
  19. Re: Closest to Yardley Old English Lavender?

    I didn't think that Old English Lavender was discontinued. I used to work for the company that made it, and when I left the fragrance was still on the shelf.
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    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    Good for him, and I hope to be able to buy a new sample of Mitsouko soon.
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    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    That is because, if the offending chemical is not present above the level that requires labelling, it won't be labeled.
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    Re: Can a man wear female fragrances?

    Yes, Yes and Yes again. Wear what you like, and take no notice of the marketing BS. I don't wear Sarah Jessica Parker, not because it is "feminine" but because it is crap.
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    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    He also says, in The Guide, that you can become allergic to anything (if you try hard enough). The 26 Allergens, are the official ones, those that have been recognised as having the greatest...
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    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    Whether or not you are a small independent Perfumer, if you sell your work you must obey the laws of the country that you work in, and also the country you sell in. Should you wish to give your...
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    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    There is about 0.5% Geraniol in Lavender oil, there is about 20.0% Linalol. I don't know where you are getting your information from, but please do not rely on Newspaper articles; that way madness...
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    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    It isn't going to!!!!!!!
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    Re: Interested in more oak moss colognes

    You better be quick, IFRA and the EU have pretty well removed Oakmoss form Perfumery. If you want to try any of the suggested fragrances you need to search out samples from the 1990s at the latest....
  28. Replies
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    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    Once upon a time the Perfumery industry was self regulating, and had managed to persuade Government legislators to leave it alone. IFRA was set up, (with RIFM the research organisation) to monitor...
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    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    Nothing to do with IFRA; everything to do with the EU.
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    Re: EU regulation and lavender

    You are all over reacting. My understanding is this. Lavender Oil ( as well as Lavandin, and Spike Lavender) contains a small amount of one of the 26 allergens (Limonene) and a huge amount of...
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    Re: Labeling Against IFRA

    And all that aside; whether you choose to ignore or obey the suggestions of IFRA, you must obey the regulations of the country you are selling in, that is the law.
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    Re: Galaxolide 50% IPM - Scent?

    Made by the same Perfumer (Sofia Grossman). I always thought that Paris and Tresor were related (Paris is also by SG), but whilst Paris was Rose with some Violet, I thought Tresor was Violet with a...
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    Re: Galaxolide 50% IPM - Scent?

    Mumsy, what a lot of people regard as a "fresh laundry smell" is a mixture of Galaxolide, Lilial and Vertenex. This is because so many Fabric Conditioners contained these ingredients. You could...
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    Bill, when did you start mentioning Acetone? That is quite a different kettle of fish. Glad that the quality of Benzyl Acetate was, in fact, OK. The problem with comparing an Aromachemical with...
  35. Thread: Ambreine

    by David Ruskin
    Replies
    10
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    712

    Re: Ambreine

    Sorry Milhaus but Musk tincture and Civet abs do not smell similar (in my opinion, of course). To me, Civet is a lot sweeter, and provides a thickness and richness to a fragrance; works really well...
  36. Poll: Re: Do you follow gender classification with fragrances?

    I agree about the confusing nature of the questions; and I agree, that they are in the wrong order. To answer the question though; I do not take any notice of Gender classification, nor do I take...
  37. Thread: Ambreine

    by David Ruskin
    Replies
    10
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    712

    Re: Ambreine

    No synthetic Civet base matches the complexity, and gentleness of real Civet abs. No synthetic Civet has the roundness or sweetness of the real stuff either. There always seems to be too much of...
  38. Replies
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    Re: Natural Coconut Fragrance Mystery

    If it is a water soluble extract it will be added to the cosmetic base rather than to the fragrance; no (very few) water soluble Perfumery materials. It is still part of the product though, and can...
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    Re: Absolute oils for culinary purposes?

    I feel that there is a difference between eating something and smelling it, and inhaling it at concentrations far higher than you would experience with the other two. When we eat something it isn't...
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    Re: fragrance DIY in dreams

    I have on at least three occasions had a dream that involved smelling. The first time I experienced this, I could smell Ylang. The second time, I could smell a fragrance that I had just created. ...
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    Re: Absolute oils for culinary purposes?

    You are going to absorb far more through your lungs than sub-lingually; very risky to inhale unknowns at a high concentration. Whatever one thinks of e-cigarettes ( and I have strong views on the...
  42. Re: Good top notes for a coconut based fragrance blend?

    But if it is your own formulation how come you do not have amounts? How can you create a fragrance without knowing how much of each ingredient you use?

    To add my suggestions to your Top note;...
  43. Thread: Ambreine

    by David Ruskin
    Replies
    10
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    712

    Re: Ambreine

    The two do not smell the same.
  44. Re: Good top notes for a coconut based fragrance blend?

    So this isn't your own formulation? Your notes read like the demonstration formulation from a supply house.
  45. Re: which quantity of perfume can show you the real result of mass production?

    That's how I understand it as well, Bill. If you have a written formula 9using weights or percentage weight) it doesn't matter what amount is made, it will come out the same.
  46. Re: Newbie here, confused about IFRA rules....

    Have you looked on the IFRA site? It is not the most friendly or helpful site, but it does list all restricted and banned materials. It also gives the limit for restricted materials. It is...
  47. Re: Happy for Men by Clinque... want to make something similar.

    I would not go so far as Paul, as I am sure there are some Essential oils present. However, it would be impossible to re-create this fragrance using Essential oils alone. Paul's suggestion, to...
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    I very much doubt that there is Acetic Anhydride left in your Benzyl Acetate, although I guess you could use that rather than Acetic Acid to react with the Benzyl Alcohol. Sorry that the treatment...
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    That's what I suggested above, and it was tried, and it didn't work.
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    It may or may not work. Give it a go. Mind you, I have never smelled vinegar as an impurity in Benzyl Acetate; there's always a first time. Natural Benzyl Acetate, will have other impurities...
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    You could try to improve it, and remove the acid. Try taking a small sample of your "off" Benzyl Acetate and adding some Sodium Bicarbonate to it. Give it a shake, and then filter. It should...
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    If the Benzyl Acetate you have smells of vinegar, then it is most definitely "off". What you are smelling is some of the Acetic Acid (vinegar) that went into making the Acetate part of Benzyl...
  53. Thread: Ambreine

    by David Ruskin
    Replies
    10
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    712

    Re: Ambreine

    I think that Ambreine is the base, Ambraine the single material (made from Labdanum).
  54. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Or maybe it was just an artefact, and not really there at all.
  55. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Paul very kindly sent me the full article. That's the first time I have ever seen evidence for the presence of Ionone in Sandalwood Oil. You learn something new every day; and I'm sure that the...
  56. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Whilst it is impossible to prove the absence of something; none of the papers I have read mention the presence of Ionone in Sandalwood Oil. If there is some there, then it will be there at damn-all...
  57. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    I wasn't able to open the article so cannot be sure.
  58. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Different molecules.
  59. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    I have never heard that alpha Ionone is found in Sandalwood. I think if it is found there it has been added.
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    Re: Help identifying some essential oils

    Citrus oils such as Bergamot can oxidise pretty quickly if stored badly. Also, if the Bergamot is also 20 years old it will probably contain a high level of chemicals which cause photosensitivity. ...
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    Re: Terpinolene in fine fragrance?

    There is absolutely no difference between fine fragrances (EdT etc.) and fragrances that are used in products, from Shower Gels down to Toilet cleaners. All fragrances are made of the same things;...
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    Re: Clary Sage

    Clary Sage certainly works well with lots of other notes, and if it does so I cannot smell it so much the better. It blends well with Geranium and Lavender, Patchouli and Vetivert, and even green...
  63. Re: GC tests and the oxidation and polymerization products of fatty aldehydes

    I have no idea, but have never come across them in any GC analysis I have ever seen. It could be that they exist , or it could be that the heat of the GC breaks them down again, or it could be that...
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    Re: Food Flavourings,where to...

    Have you looked at the magazine called "Perfumer and Flavourist"? It has a web site, I think. You will be able to find a suitable book there I think.
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    Re: Vanilla won't mix with other oils

    You will have the greatest difficulty in using either Sunflower oil or Jojoba as solvents. The reason that your mix looks like a Lava lamp is because nothing is dissolving. Have you tried just...
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde

    As I posted above; Cinnamic Alcohol (which is solid at room temperature) should smell fruity/floral with a hint of spice. However, it can easily oxidise to Cinnamic Aldehyde (which is liquid at...
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    Re: Vanilla won't mix with other oils

    Vanilla Absolute is not soluble in water (I can think of no Essential oil or Absolute that is). It should be soluble in Ethanol, that's why it is called an Absolute. It should also be soluble in...
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    Re: Clary Sage

    Sage Oil as well As Artemesia and Armoise oil are commonly used in Perfumery. They have nothing to do with Clary Sage, however, and smell nothing like it. I think I must be the only (ex) Perfumer...
  69. Replies
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde

    Cinnamic alcohol (which has nothing to do with HCA) should smell fruity/floral with a touch of spice. The trouble with it is that it can easily oxidise to Cinnamic aldehyde, which has a much...
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    Re: Love for Chypre top notes

    Good luck with Sassafras oil; it's been banned for years.
  71. Replies
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    Re: Terpinolene in fine fragrance?

    Terpinolene is very cheap and so is used in a lot of household type products. I think it occurs naturally. Smells lime terpenic and somewhat harsh. There is nothing to stop you using whatever...
  72. Replies
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde

    When smelling a new material, and even when smelling those things that you are familiar with, it is far more important to provide your own odour description, and then go look at the "official" one. ...
  73. Replies
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    Re: Origanum EO prohibited?

    I Googled IFRA, and searched for Origanum Oil. There is no mention of it, which means it is not even restricted.
  74. Replies
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde

    Could be that the sample you have is no good. Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde is a Jasmin note.
  75. Replies
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    701

    Re: Watery Green Base Notes...?

    Have you tried Stemone? According to Givaudan it lasts for 16 hours on a blotter; or isn't that long enough? Also Violet Leaf Absolute and Mimosa Absolute fit the bill; for me.
  76. Re: Female marketed fragrances for a male to wear?

    I think anybody or either sex can wear any fragrance that they like. Therefore before they wear it, they should have smelled it. I think it is always a dangerous and expensive risk to blind buy...
  77. Replies
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    "He" is still here, and prefers not to be referred to in the third person. My comments were not pointed, nor were they meant to be unpleasant. I was simply explaining that a) the Grossman accord...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    People (plural) were complaining about, and explaining why they didn't like the accord, I simply stated that "if you didn't like it , don't use it"; and that it should be treated as an accord and...
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    Jasmin Absolute, as well as most Jasmin accords contain about 50.0% Benzyl Acetate. It's what else is there that makes the difference.
  80. Replies
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    And I said, "If you don't like it, don't use it". How do you know I was referring to you? (I wasn't).
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    Re: Etat Libre d'Orange bottle design

    And possible reformulations. Watch this space.
  82. Replies
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Kvetch is, as far as I am aware, a Yiddish word which means to moan and whine. Forgive me if I am wrong.
  83. Replies
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    As Paul has mentioned, it's a base. It is not a finished fragrance. It is to be used as part of a fragrance. If you don't like it , don't use it. But please don't kvetch about it, being...
  84. Replies
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    Jasmin Absolute contains about 50.0% Benzyl Acetate. It is responsible for the fruitiness. However Benzyl Acetate is only one of many chemicals found in Jasmin Absolute. One chemical will never...
  85. Replies
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    It will be a base. No one single chemical will ever replace the smell of an Essential oIl
  86. Replies
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    Re: Butyric Acid

    Butter CO2, from memory is very expensive. Whilst it contains some Butyric Acid, it contains many other chemicals too. The effects will not be the same.
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    Re: Butyric Acid

    Smell it and see. Sounds right to me, but as you know Paul, the amount of something that works in one formula may not work in another.
  88. Replies
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    Perfumer's Apprentice also sell a Jasmin accord.
  89. Replies
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    Five drops of Benzyl Acetate doesn't translate into anything. Do you think that Benzyl Acetate smells the same as Jasmin Absolute? Do you think that Benzyl Acetate has the same strength as Jasmin...
  90. Replies
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    A moment's thought would show you the impossibility of replacing Jasmin Absolute ( an extract which contains many chemicals) with Benzyl Acetate which is a single chemical. It is true that there is...
  91. Replies
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    Re: Male Underarm Sweat Accord

    The standard malodour used to evaluate deodorant fragrances for their ability to mask bad smells is Iso Valeric Acid, which smells just like sweaty feet.
  92. Re: Methods of Drying Out Gathered Plant Materials for Tincture?

    Cold pressing citrus rind should produce no water. However, you will need a hell of a lot of fruits to get a reasonable amount of oil. The traditional way of preparing Bergamot oil was to cut the...
  93. Re: Taking the plunge for a White Lotus order?

    I mentioned in my last post how to compare a buying sample with the previous batch. One of the most impotent aspects of buying ingredients is consistency of quality. It doesn't have to be the...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Practice Briefs

    The opposite can also work. Try using a specific ingredient at a level you would never dream of. Try using 20.0% Ionone, and make a deceit fragrance with that amount. Overdose something you...
  95. Re: GC tests and the oxidation and polymerization products of fatty aldehydes

    Straight chain aldehydes such as C10, will oxidise to the corresponding acid. These acids may or may not smell "sour". If they are volatile they may be detected by GC/MS, if they are not, they...
  96. Re: So Le Labo swears that their fragrances only last 2 years (if stored correctly) before turning b

    As long as that? I would have thought Le Labo would have suggested 6 months, just to get a better turnaround. Fragrances, well stored will last much longer than 2 years; much, much longer.
  97. Replies
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    Re: Article about styrene

    Another ill informed article full of half truths designed to cause panic amongst the gullible. As it is quite clear that the author of this article knows little of the subject I shall ignore it.
  98. Replies
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    Re: is fragrance a luxury good?

    Of course fragrance is a luxury item. It is not a necessity, it just brings some pleasure but it is not vital to life. You would not die if you had all your fragranced products removed, or had...
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    Re: What does ozonic mean?

    Examples of "Ozonic" fragrances. There are many, it was the Fragrance type of the 90's. New West for her; l'Eau d'Issey, Aqua de Gio, are three good examples.
  100. Re: Buying Macerated essential oils wholesale

    Naming no names but we have all experienced the first time poster, asking a question, or wanting help. We try and answer the question. And the poster is never heard of again. It gets rather...
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