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  1. Replies

    Re: Creed launches baby perfume

    In my humble opinion, baby perfumes are a form of cultural pederasty, just like beauty contests for 8 year olds. Dis-gus-ting!

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  2. Replies

    Re: Is Tom Ford a Perfumer?

    There's something of a mystifying conception about one particular person being the creator of corporate perfumes. Tom Ford isn't, obviously, but neither is the actual trained perfumer. The product is...
  3. Re: The Fragrance Industry - Evolution or Revolution?

    The perspective of a business insider I talked to recently is that the niche market is going down the tubes because there's too much money around. The incessant demand for something new-fangled by...
  4. Re: The Fragrance Industry - Evolution or Revolution?

    Cogent observations here. Classic perfumery is dead on all levels: economically, legally, materially, aesthetically. Yet the system that destroyed it is generating the potential for new creative...
  5. Poll: Re: Getting tired of "oud scents" yet? POLL.

    I love genuine oud. But the industry hype really just boils down to a marketing platform linking up a tired form of orientalism with the interests of the aromachemical giants in pedaling their new,...
  6. Replies

    Re: Fans of Aoud and Roja Dove Rejoice.

    No doubt, and Roja Dove is a gaudily flamboyant guy, so up to this point it's made "scents". But, if you'll permit me to do a Frankie Boyle , "Sweetie" "Fruity" and "Candy" is rather what I would...
  7. Replies

    Re: Fans of Aoud and Roja Dove Rejoice.

    Three names and half a decade of fragrance cachet is blown to bits.
    He has to bear responsibility for those silly names, but the real problem is there are too many dimwits with way too much money...
  8. Re: Donald Trump builds his fragrance Empire

    Might buy the gift set. 2 oz.perfume and an imitation leather, tinsel-encrusted scumbag. To put scum in, you know.

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  9. Replies

    Re: Race Track Scents

    Jockey Club :)

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  10. Re: a Celebrity scent you'd like to see on the shelves...

    Relativity bei Albert Einstein.
    (gets you laid faster than light)

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  11. Re: Can cheap wine taste great? Brain imaging and marketing placebo effects.

    Anybody with a deeper knowledge of wine or perfume will know what they are tasting / smelling. But label drinkers or sprayers wouldn't. The shoddiness of many pseudo-luxury goods based on image...
  12. Re: I'm Here But you've Gone - artists do fragrances

    not jaded. those ideas are not in the same league as the works shown at Belle Haleine in Basel. The approach towards body/ sex seems almost puerile. Anybody remember Wiener Aktionismus?

    sent from...
  13. Re: I'm Here But you've Gone - artists do fragrances

    Interesting but also somewhat condescending to the art of perfumery. Now, let's give Ellena and Duchaufour some paint and have them do canvasses :rolleyes:

    sent from a mobile device - please...
  14. Re: The greatest fragrance for men ever released (so far)

    It's bacon, you fools!
  15. Replies

    Re: Frederic Malle/Estee Lauder

    The idea behind the takeover was to expand the brand. That will have consequences, as you can't simply multiply the production of high-end perfumes - the natural oils market is very small. The...
  16. Re: Angela Ciampagna: Not your usual *artisanal* line.

    OK, Rosarium on the left and Incense Extreme on the right arm. There really is a similarity, but rosarium plays an octave higher. The top notes may be off on my Tauer sample (it's from 2009) but it's...
  17. Replies

    Re: Penhaligon's Praise Thread

    I have a number of Penhaligon's scents, most of them older editions and in the classic vein: Blenheim, Racquets, Castile, and Hammam Bouquet - I can't forgive them for ruining that last one. Haven't...
  18. Re: The Implausibility of the Vibrational Theory of Olfaction

    Thanks so much for that excellent summary!
  19. Replies

    Re: In Praise of Atelier

    Each to their own. I tested the original four and thought they blew the budget on the first five minutes. What comes afterwards is disappointingly synthetic, neither simply refreshing, nor in any way...
  20. Re: Angela Ciampagna: Not your usual *artisanal* line.

    A few more impressions:
    I love Aer's mint note and am wearing the fragrance now, a great cool-stoney monastery vibe, tad smokey but clean, with an incensy tail. The second one that fits very...
  21. Re: Angela Ciampagna: Not your usual *artisanal* line.

    Well, I received my package last week, but was away, so today was the first opportunuity to start sniffing. ´These are only first impressions, but after three scents what I can say is that the house,...
  22. Replies

    Re: DS Durga - Debaser (2015)

    Got me some figgies - ahahaha
    Slicing up coconuts - ahahaha....
  23. Re: Belle Haleine olfactory art show & symposium @ Basel, Switzerland

    Well, I can only second the BN review (whose author Dr. Noppeney I actually met at the conference) that the exhibit is a must see, and together with the highly diverse and fascinating symposium it...
  24. Re: Underwhelmed with Kilians recent releases

    I have always found the brand to be a particularly illustrative example of a corporate niche's life cycle.
  25. Re: Why we have trouble describing smells...

    The thing is we are not smelling molecules in some objective fashion, but always perceiving any smell in a culturally conditioned context. Just like you can only see a two- dimensional represenation...
  26. Replies

    Re: New Italian niche house - Unum

    They could market LAVS and Arso by Profvmvm as a double pack for the Anglophone markets :D.

    Btw. You Italian guys are killing me with your recommendations. I have no money for this. I'm like a dog...
  27. Belle Haleine olfactory art show & symposium @ Basel, Switzerland

    Basenotes gave a wonderful review of this and since I work only 3 hours from Basel I'm going this Friday and Saturday, also to attend the concurrent symposium which brings together cultural studies...
  28. Re: Why we have trouble describing smells...

    "Performance was slower and less precise when linking a word to its corresponding odor than to its picture." A Designated Odor–Language Integration System in the Human Brain...
  29. Replies

    Re: Your "National Fragrance"? :)

    For Germany, stereotypically speaking, it should be a macerated and distilled blend of a Porsche SUV, Bratwurst and beer with a Fussball leather note. A democratic vote would likely lead to an...
  30. Re: Angela Ciampagna: Not your usual *artisanal* line.

    Also placed my order for the sample pack.
  31. Re: Michael Edwards on "How the West fell in love with Oud"

    I wonder whether Edwards is correct. Aloeswood has been known in Europe since its introduction by the Arabs and was a prized and pouplar ingredient of pomanders. Why should it not have been used in...
  32. Re: Dear Gawd Creed and these batch variations

    You, me and Luca Turin agree this is a crap fragrance, a super-synthetic afterthought to GIT (and I've had that rotten melon association, too). If it were true Creed made it for some blogger-whipping...
  33. Replies

    Re: eBayers Seem Content with Fake Creeds

    C'mon guys, fake Creeds are made using only the finest fake infusion techniques. They're the best fakes in the world and easily worth $ 80.
    Fake GIT (and to a lesser extent MI) has always been a...
  34. Re: Angela Ciampagna: Not your usual *artisanal* line.

    Thanks, I'm certainly intrigued.
  35. Re: Guy Robert (amouage gold & crystal) spea`ks!

    And what a glorious beast Amouage Gold used to be. The Robert era was the golden age of this house, truly.

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  36. Re: Guy Robert (amouage gold & crystal) spea`ks!

  37. Re: Guy Robert (amouage gold & crystal) spea`ks!

    I missed this first time around. Thanks for reviving it.

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  38. Replies

    Re: Parfums de cuir - Osmotheque lecture

    Thanks for the report. Makes we want to jump on a train to Versailles.
  39. Re: What's definitely masculine is.. grossness?

    Well put. Just compare real Oud as prized in the Arab world with its synthetic / domesticated Western counterpart.

    As to cultural history there have been times when women were supposed to smell...
  40. Replies

    Re: Ethical Hypothetical

    Wouldn't be that hard to find a reasonable convergence. A sealed original bottle of Cuir de Russie or Coty Chypre? 1920s Shalimar Essence from the Guerlain vaults?
  41. Re: Domenico Caraceni this classed as niche ?

    To me this qualified as niche. It was produed by the small, now defunct, outfit Forester in Milano, who also made Czech and Speake and Washington Tremlett, both of which I'd consider niche as well....
  42. Re: Why are Perfumes and Colognes so popular?

    Well, I'm certainly no friend of the industry part of the perfume industry, and some isolated points, e.g. about an ideologized obsession with hygiene in US culture, are pertinent. Most of the...
  43. Replies

    Re: Shalimar - can a man get away with it?

    I wear the Extrait. It certainly has more balls than dior homme...
  44. Re: Why do companies "admit" reformulations by changing the packaging/bottle?

    "Niche" is just a marketing option. It says pretty much nothing about the quality or cost of what's in the bottle. While it will frequently be somewhat higher than for designer or drugstore products,...
  45. Replies

    Re: Where are all the Vintage Creed bottles?

    When I wrote that fateful blogpost years ago on Creed and Farina and the uses of history I was contrasting two small players with limited means who used their history as an essential marketing...
  46. Re: Need your Opinion- Should I Offer Robertet Naturals for Presale Perfumer Supply House

    Interested in a sample set, as well as 60g of cedar, elemi and guaiac.
  47. Re: Photograph- Harrods perfume counter, 1908

    Well, in the course of the 19th century our contemporary conception of hygiene evolved and the middle classes began to wash and bathe on a regular basis - concomitantly the modern bathroom evolves...
  48. Re: Photograph- Harrods perfume counter, 1908

    And you never will. Creed started doing perfume around 1975. They were tailors before that and you would have found their London store at Conduit Street in 1908.
  49. Re: Photograph- Harrods perfume counter, 1908

    Absolutely not, only harlots would do that. Textiles were carefully sprayed, though, dresses and undergarments, but always with an eye to light sillage. "Otherwise you stand to being convicted of...
  50. Re: A fragrance that could ease, comfort in sorrow and pain

    Scent perception is obviously very personal, but lavender is a clinically proven relaxant and there's a reason all religions use some form of incense. I would always tend to go for natural perfumes...
  51. Re: Strange limited Guerlain Habit Rouge - Does anybody know more about this?

    Pre-INCI declaration would suggest the bottle is pre-1997, no?

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  52. Replies

    Re: Most overrated fragrance on Basenotes?

    All that fuddyduddy old people perfume for smelly old French people. Axe Body spray is all you need, dude, it get's me laid.
  53. Re: Photograph- Harrods perfume counter, 1908

    Ah, but it was not yet worn on skin then. I believe that is a post WWI phenomenon, when women became "loose" ;).

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  54. Replies

    Re: Perfume History..Help

    Annick Le Guérer, Scent, a good general introduction to scent
    Alain Corbin, The Foul and the Fragrant. Odor and the French Social Imagination, a pathbreaking study that will help you to...
  55. Replies

    Re: Greek island!

    Great thread. I spent some of the best thyme of my life ;-) on Ikaria two years ago. The scent of herbs (some of them autochtonous) and ocean was pure magic. I brought that scent home in local...
  56. Replies

    Re: Perfume: The Story of a Murderer

    The film passes as decent entertainment, but it lacks the philosophical intricacy of the novel ,which embraces, in beautiful prose no less, fundmental questions about Enlightenment philosophy and...
  57. Re: Roja Parfums Vetiver Extrait vs Creed Vetiver 1948

    IMO Creed has yet to produce a vetiver perfume, rather than one simply bearing that word in its name.
  58. Replies

    Re: Bleu De Chanel

    Bleu de Chanel - the smell of consumer capitalism. Yummy!

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  59. Re: Is Abercombie & Fitch Fierce going to be considered a classic?

    For the US of that period it is definitely a classic, and that tells you a lot about the US of that period.
  60. Re: Oliver & Erwin Creed vs Jean Claude Ellena Hermes Budget

    Creed would simply hire Bourdon. It's not like they are REALLY trained perfumers. More creative directors like M. Lutens or Kilian Hennessy. And if Bourdon had unlimited funds I assume you would get...
  61. Replies

    Re: Best oud for under $250

    Not locally available but you can order samples: La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan No. 2 or 3. Natural alcohol-based perfume, strong oud, affordable. edit: forget it, out of your price range. Just get...
  62. Replies

    Re: Is Amouage Finished?

    Like many a niche house Amouage went from the true exclusive luxury of its beginnings (really costly ingredients and formulations not made to please everyone) to a huge diversified (and creatively...
  63. Replies

    Re: Oud invasion of US high end malls

    I think the industry has simply found a convenient and sufficiently exotic label to stick upon their new generic-synthetic wood base, which, as correctly noted, is supposed to offer a trendy...
  64. Replies

    Re: Molecule 01

    Those are a German and a French line. Why exactly should they be cheaper in the US, if the have to be imported?
  65. Re: Aromatic Citrus or Fougere Fragrance Suggestion

    Goutal's Eau du Sud is a beautiful traditional aromatic citrus with a chypre base
  66. Replies

    Re: Grey Flannel - Why the dislike?

    Really, they should have issued that flanker: Fifty Shades of Grey Flannel and made a million. GF reminds me of the cheap synthetic violet oil from Pier 1 Imports I had as a kid in the 70s - just...
  67. Re: how to preserve a vintage splah bottle?

    If we are talking costly rare vintage I would suggest what they do at Osmothèque. Decant a small amount for use, cover the juice in the flacon with protective gas. You can get this for preserving...
  68. Re: 5 specific scent fragrances every man should own

    Real Man :rolleyes:

    1. Leather: Knize Ten
    2. Oud: Oud Caravan No. 3
    3. Incense: Norma Kamali Incense
    4. Tobacco: Tabarôme Private Collection
    5. Citrus: Acqua di Parma Colonia
    Fresh: Eau...
  69. Replies

    Re: Cuir Ottoman - Female or Unisex??

    It's a butch feminine :D.
    Really now, why would you care about labels, just wear the stuff, if it feels right and don't, if it don't.
  70. Replies

    Re: What happened to Katie?

    She has a show on BBC6, wouldn't you know?!
  71. Replies

    Re: So... leather isnt really leather

    Leather can
    1. either refer to the smell of treated leather using
    a .actual substances also used to treat leather (birch tar), or
    b. chemicals such as isobutyl quinoline
    2. or refer to...
  72. Re: What are some scents you ONLY wear for others?

    I think the question frames the issue the wrong way :). You never wear a fragrance for yourself or others exclusively because it is an intersubjective act. If you wear something on behalf of others...
  73. Replies

    Re: CREED Is The Best?

    Fixed that for you :D

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  74. Replies

    Re: CREED Is The Best?

    yes indeed. thanks.

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  75. Replies

    Re: CREED Is The Best?

    Well, the vast majority of perfumes are simply slightly tweaked prefab formulas from the 4 aromachemical giants that control the market. This applies to many so:called niche brands as well. Creed...
  76. Replies

    Re: CREED Is The Best?

    MI - generic melon aquatic
    OV - Mugler Cologne
    OSantal - Joop homme
    OSpice - Kouros
    Wood & Spice - qed

    They have consciously been playing off generic designer frag patterns since the mid 80s....
  77. Replies

    Re: My personal opinion on Guerlain

    "Guerlain used to be a great - the greatest - house" sums it up. Of course, this not a singular instance. The Golden Age of classical perfumery petered out in the 90s. Perfume as art now primarily...
  78. Replies

    Re: CREED Is The Best?

    Proposition: Creed's particular success among a certain consumer milieu is based on the the fact that they offer enhanced male designer scents (standard formulations with little sophistication and...
  79. Thread: Tutti

    by the_good_life

    Re: Tutti

    The company is Corania
  80. Replies

    Re: SOTD Wednesday 11th February 2015

    I was intrigued by the raves on and bought 20 mls in a split. It is very complex and sophisticated, but without a cheap oud note, cashmeran or iso, that "fuzzy woody lukewarm" vibe you...
  81. Replies

    Re: Petition to ban acronyms

    Of course it would not be difficult to make a case for email, texting and twittering as the epitome of Western cultural anemia - the Boss Bottled of language. I know they have been used artfully (the...
  82. Replies

    Re: Interview with Erwin Creed.

    If I ever get to interview Erwin Creed, it will make Guantanamo Bay look like an excercise in observing human rights.

    "Now, Erwin, before I extract your complete toenail, HOW old is Royal English...
  83. Replies

    Re: CREED Is The Best?

    Anybody who wants to understand the majority of Creed threads on BN just needs to read some de Tocqueville and Thorstein Veblen. I'm pretty sure Olivier Creed has :D.
  84. Re: A shocking fact : Creed is completely unknown in France's perfume shops

    For clarification:

    1.Creed does not currently hold any royal warrants anywhere. They are all of the past, in fact, none I have seen is more recent than the 19th century. I believe the British...
  85. Re: A shocking fact : Creed is completely unknown in France's perfume shops

    The history and lineage is fake as relates to perfume. The fragrance house dates from 1975. There's really no reason to know Creed if you're not a perfumista. While every French person will recognize...
  86. Re: Contradictions between SOTD and financial positions

    If everyone thought like you, where would America be? This great country was built on deficit spending (plus slavery and killing Indians :D)
  87. Re: Contradictions between SOTD and financial positions

    If you were wearing vintage L'Heure Bleue I'd say that's the true Dandy Spirit (of course it helps to remember under what circumstances Brummel died). But Aventus? Olivier Creed is laughing all the...
  88. Re: Duke of Windsor with a vintage CREED bottle?

    Yeah, ideologically he was a total dickhead, but nonetheless he's a style icon and one of the key influences on classical menswear in the 20th century. Style, genius etc. in no way make you a decent...
  89. Replies

    Re: Will Lavendar Rob Your Manhood

    Sex Panther
  90. Re: Ephemera: Geza Schoen + Kode9 + Ben Frost + Tim Hecker

    The percpetion of the frags (and the accompanying soundscapes/video) is at least as interesting as the project. It certainly shows from what distinct angles perfume as a concept can be viewed and...
  91. Replies

    Re: Today I bought: February 2015

    1939 sealed pure perfume flacon of Millot's Crêpe de Chine. Very dark juice, but no evaporation, boxed and with a centennial sticker (celebrating 100 years of F. Millot, 1839-1939). It's one of the...
  92. Replies

    Re: Best 'Eau de Cologne'?

    Hard to settle on three.
    1. Villoresi
    2. Eau d'Orange verte (vintage only)
    3. Acqua di Parma

    However, if I had a fully intact version of 1950s Johann Maria Farina, that would be up there, too....
  93. Replies

    Re: Aberdeen Lavender?

    I personally found it horrible, a castrato version of the ballsy Royal Scottisch Lavender. Actually, Woods of Windsor does this style better for 10 quid. And by the way, Mr. Creed, it's 500 bloody...
  94. Re: Duke of Windsor with a vintage CREED bottle?

    No, not a Creed bottle. Creed was launched in 1975 as a perfume house. Their historical references to perfumery are figments of marketing imagination. The Duke of Windsor may have had some clothes by...
  95. Replies

    Re: Frags with an ultimate GOTHIC vibe?

    Vintage, most particularly!
  96. Re: Creed Cuir De Russie and Royal English Leather

    I've only sampled Creed CdR and was not much taken by it. Chanel's is (or used to be) far better IMO, as is Knize Ten, in terms of birch tar / quinoline -style leathers, though some knowledgeable...
  97. Re: Looking for some memory assistance. Circa 1960's

    If it was 4711, then it's the neroli (= steam distilled orange blossom) note your recalling (largely synthetic and very prominent in 4711 and present in many other old-style EdCs).
  98. Re: Which fragrance is a "Hype-king" or "Overhyped"?

    Aventus has been overhyped since 1781. Of course this is from a vantage point that sees Tabarôme Private Collection as the best ever Creed. I think Knize Ten totally justified the hype it engendered...
  99. Re: Which perfume is close to the " Jean patou pour homme"

    Original Pph would not meet with much acclaim in today's market, fail IFRA regulations and contains hard- to-source and way-too-costly
    ingredients. And there is nothing on the market even remotely...
  100. Re: The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    There's no water per se, Hungary Water is itself a destillate. Here is an old recipe:
    "Rosemary, flowering tops: 14lbs, rectified spirit: 11.5 gall., water: 1 gall. (imperial British measures I...
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000