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    Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Hey, nobody asked.
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    Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Thank you. Her name is Fiamma, and she turned 11 months old yesterday.
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    Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    "That can't be a good sign. I'm starting to get worried about him now."

    :-) Actually I'll be a visiting professor in the Institute of Theoretical Physics, headed by my brilliant colleague Martin...
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    Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Quite right. I think you should stick to following grumpy young women.
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    Re: Le Grand Guide des Parfums on Amazon.fr

    The German edition of the small guide is scheduled for release on Feb 14, 2013

    http://www.amazon.de/Das-kleine-Buch-gro%C3%9Fen-Parfums/dp/3908777860/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1355394985&sr=8-8
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    Re: Le Grand Guide des Parfums on Amazon.fr

    Thank you Narcus and thank you all for your kind words ! As far as I know there _is_ a German translation of the 100-perfume guide in preparation. I will let you know when that happens. I agree that...
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    Le Grand Guide des Parfums on Amazon.fr

    Amazon.fr lists a book entitled "Le Grand Guide des Parfums", supposedly authored by me, published by City Editions to be released Jan 3, 2013. I am not aware of its existence. City was at one point...
  8. Re: Article: Review - The Little Book of Perfumes: The Hundred Classics

    You misunderstand: I was [as was Tania] sincere both about the fragrance and the friendship.
  9. Re: Article: Review - The Little Book of Perfumes: The Hundred Classics

    That's easily answered: every single review in the guide is subjective. As for cosying up, I've made it clear which perfumers are personal friends, so feel free to divide and subtract as you wish.
  10. Re: Article: Review - The Little Book of Perfumes: The Hundred Classics

    Replaced by objectivity, I take it ?
  11. Sticky: Re: Found: Complete Onlive Archive of Luca Turin's "Duftnotes"

    Thank you arwen_elf, and thank you all for your kind comments. Truth is I've stopped writing about fragrance, though I made an exception with the Little Book which was fun, esp. the marvellous...
  12. Sticky: Re: Found: Complete Onlive Archive of Luca Turin's "Duftnotes"

    For the record, I am delighted this is online and I thank the anonymous poster.
  13. Re: Which formulation componants tend to enhance longevity in a perfume ?

    In a nutshell I think a perfumer is composing not one fragrance, but several in succession that form as the materials evaporate, and the artistic interest and coherence of each of the stages has to...
  14. Re: Which formulation componants tend to enhance longevity in a perfume ?

    In a first approximation volatility is inversely proportional to molecular weight. A rule of thumb is that adding one carbon increases durability by a factor of two.

    Second, there is the fact...
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    Re: A Code in the Nose featuring Luca Turin

    He does not propose that, we do in the discussion of the PNAS paper. Time will tell.
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    Re: A Code in the Nose featuring Luca Turin

    No offence taken, I assure you. Enantiomers: most enantiomer pairs, of course, smell identical which is impossible to account for by a shape-based mechanism since receptors are chiral. Some smell...
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    Re: A Code in the Nose featuring Luca Turin

    http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2011/02/08/1012293108.abstract
    http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-12827893
  18. Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Narcus and Pluran,

    Thank you for your interest, much appreciated ! I too have been thinking about combining them in a readily accessible form and posting them. This would a) spare the reader the...
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    Re: Yet one more Luca Turin post

    Interesting question, I agree. I think gay is the wrong word: I know plenty of gays who are as devoid of sense of humor as the average straight. In my opinion the right word is camp, a quality shared...
  20. Re: New article on vibration hypothesis of sense of smell.

    I suggest you read the paper again carefully. The flies do not just discriminate between an odorant and its deuterated counterpart, they generalise between different isotope pairs, and from deuterium...
  21. Re: New article on vibration hypothesis of sense of smell.

    There never was any such thing, not sure where you got that idea. From my very first article I assumed that the many receptors Buck and Axel discovered were doing the job. But thanks for the rest of...
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    Re: Luca Turin Help Please?

    We agree :-) Many thanks ! LT & TS
  23. Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thank you Narcus and thank you all for your appreciation over the years. All the best. Luca
  24. Thread: Smitten

    by luca turin
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    Re: Smitten

    No doubt about it: one fugly guy, pope or not.
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    Re: OPIUM: repackage & reformulation

    Thanks to all for the heads-up. Will definitely smell the new stuff and report back. This said, there is probably enough "old" Opium out there to last years at reasonable prices.
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    Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009 - now complete !

    Likewise from me a very happy 2010 to you Narcus, and thank you for your kind comments and hard work.

    Luca
  27. Re: Is Luca Turin right about the sense of smell?

    I have been following the whole CRU mess with great interest and am delighted that those in favor of open debate and data transparency seem to be winning the argument.

    This said, I do not think...
  28. Re: Is Luca Turin right about the sense of smell?

    Yes, that is the pattern I was talking about.

    I don't know how widely it is perceived among "naive" subjects, but every perfumer I have spoken to seems to agree with the general principle. The...
  29. Re: Is Luca Turin right about the sense of smell?

    I am buffing up my talk to a high sheen :-)



    There is no alternation in any other series I know of, though the sudden appearance of the musk character in macrocyclic ketones at C > 14 is an...
  30. Re: Is Luca Turin right about the sense of smell?

    I haven't tried the _exact same_ data set with the proprietary method, but I think yes. The Brookes et al. method has not yet been applied to a large odorant set. The problem with an exact method is...
  31. Re: Is Luca Turin right about the sense of smell?

    Will post the link as soon as it is available.



    There are three versions of IETS calculations, two of which are in the public domain:

    1- The very simple minded one I described in J Theor...
  32. Re: Is Luca Turin right about the sense of smell?

    Thanks for your interest ! I am readying this work for publication at the moment, and we are thinking of putting a preprint on Arxiv, though no decision has been made on this.




    Hard to say:...
  33. Re: Is Luca Turin right about the sense of smell?

    Water does not enter the receptor



    The smell is due to the ketone, unaffected by deuteration



    The smell is due to the hydroxyl, unaffected by deuteration because of rapid exchange
  34. Replies
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    Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I think it important that Vitaly Vodyanoy's important work should not be misrepresented:

    Every breath we take is laden with nanoparticles of minerals and metals. Furthermore the zinc nanoparticles...
  35. Re: "Above all else, a perfume must smell good" - source?

    How true. Thank you Narcus, but it's too late. I see that in the end boards are dominated by playground bullies. I shall not be posting on or reading BN any longer. I was doing it in good faith to...
  36. Re: "Above all else, a perfume must smell good" - source?

    Guy Robert (in conversation): "Un parfum doit avant tout sentir bon".
  37. Re: who disagree with Turin's take on niche frags?

    Just to clarify. The term "base" used by me and Tania in the book refers to pre-composed accords supplied by aromachemical houses to make perfumers' lives easier. You can have a peach base, a muguet...
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    Re: what 's your favorite Luca Turin review?

    Great name for a haircut
  39. Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    This is edition 1, and has 1500+ fragrances, not a bad start. It will be completed, extended and improved etc. in future editions. Many thanks to all for the suggestions and comments. It will never...
  40. Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    We get complaints from both directions: some readers say we should explain at greater length why crap perfumes are crap. Some say we should omit them altogether. Saying a lot about very little is...
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    Re: what 's your favorite Luca Turin review?

    Been trying for years :-)
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    Re: what 's your favorite Luca Turin review?

    Lighten up
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    Re: what 's your favorite Luca Turin review?

    such as ?
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    Re: what 's your favorite Luca Turin review?

    Haven't laughed this hard reading something in a long while !!!!
  45. Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Yes, much simpler in the case of synthetics, but many modern fragrances have drifted away from emulating anything natural, so that in a few years time the note in some future composition may end up...
  46. Re: A technical question for Luca Turin (and anyone else)

    I have nothing much to add to all the considerable expertise and common sense contributed by everyone above. In my experience light is 90% of the problem, temperature (unless it is above 30C...
  47. Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    [/QUOTE]I would have loved to have had not only the house of the perfume, but the individual perfumer named for EACH and EVERY perfume. I would also have liked to have the notes identified for EACH...
  48. Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    I would have loved to have had not only the house of the perfume, but the individual perfumer named for EACH and EVERY perfume. I would also have liked to have the notes identified for EACH and EVERY...
  49. Re: The Stages of Public Acceptance of Natural Perfumery An Evolution Unfolds in the

    FTR, Tania Sanchez and I also gave four stars to two excellent all-natural creations by Aesop, Marrakech and Mystra.
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    Re: What's up with the Burr bashing?

    thanks :-)
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    Re: What's up with the Burr bashing?

    Charlatan is spelled with three "a"s. Ask any chemist
  52. Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Thanks for your answer. I suspect what may have given the impression of cronyism is the fact that TS and I mention many perfumers by name. This was deliberate: they are artists, they should in my...
  53. Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    That assertion is, of course, far too vague to counter.



    I have some friends who happen to be perfumers. I mention them in the acknowledgements, specifically Chris Sheldrake and Calice Becker....
  54. Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Thank you. Odd accusation to make on such flimsy evidence. But you said "A strong thread of cronyism runs throughout the book" (I'm quoting from memory). Any other instances ?
  55. Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    FYI: NONE
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    Re: What's up with the Burr bashing?

    If you're going to quote, quote right: it's "before _we_ forgot who he was"
  57. Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    [QUOTE=GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR;1203349]I wouldn't be asking this if the book we out yet in Canada, as I'm eager to take a look at it and I'd just go check it out in the store, but are the Nasomatto...
  58. Re: Perfume the Guide: Top ten Mens and Womens fragrances [preview]

    Most fragrances use precisely the same oil in different dilutions, and giving the dilutions separate reviews would be like giving "prescription strength" Advil a different review. When they are...
  59. Re: Perfume the Guide: Top ten Mens and Womens fragrances [preview]

    Once again: THE CARONS HAVE BEEN DAMAGED, and the present Tabac Blond is NOT what I used to love ! Why should it get five stars on what it used to be ? Please Narcus, wait till you have the book :-)
  60. Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    If you knew Michael Edwards and how he works, you would know that a) he doesn't make attribution mistakes and b) he discussed this with Creed. OC is listed as co-creator, btw
  61. Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Bourdon is listed as creator of GIT in Michael Edwards' database, thereby officially confirming the worst-kept secret in the industry

    Erolfa: I think both my taste and the fragrance may have...
  62. Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Just curious as to what you mean by that
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    Re: Luca Turin and Creed

    I'll check out the Hungarian Rhapsody, many thanks.

    I had no idea about the Szeged/Towner connection. Very sad.

    Tokaj ! Wonderful stuff. I haven't tasted one for years. The last one was an...
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    Re: Luca Turin and Creed

    The Carons have for the most part been sloppily reformulated, and Tabac Blond is a pale shadow of its former self. I understand their problem: Daltroff was very fond of carnation notes (eugenol and...
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    Re: Luca Turin and Creed

    From Blue Sun onwards Ralph Towner has been my favorite living musician :-)
    East European perfumes: have smelled v. few, mostly Russian ones long ago when I worked in Moscow, one or two Latvian...
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    Re: Luca Turin and Creed

    Given the EU restrictions on rectified birch tar we felt that we should get an up-to-date sample of Knize 10 before reviewing it, for fear that it might have been reformulated. Knize at the time...
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    Re: Luca Turin and Creed

    Thank you from both of us, glad to be part of the discussion, don't let us cramp your style. Luca and Tania
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    Re: Luca Turin and Creed

    Have you read the book ?
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    Re: Luca Turin and Creed

    Thank you. That mistake was pointed out by a copy editor and is corrected in the book
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